Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q2

AFRICA

Cosmetics & pharmaceutical process innovation news

Reimagining sun protection beyond the white cast

Ingredients to support women in every life stage

Explore Gen Z’s influence on fragrance

AFRICA

Cosmetics & pharmaceutical process innovation news

4 NEWS

Achieve high SPF with Neo Heliopan 310 UVB filter

UPM Raflatac makes a sustainability impact

Ameyezing 4.0 shows clinical success on Indian skin

7 SUN CARE

Ingredients for formulating inclusive solutions for African skin

Brenntag SA reveals the next wave of sunscreen innovation

Reimagining sun protection beyond the white cast

14 HEALTH & WELLNESS

New automated blister packaging machine for Hersol

Scientifically substantiated ingredients for women’s health

VEGA presents a solution for bulk packaging challenges

Zinplex Cosmeceutical offers quality you can trust

New perspectives on creatine and hydration

24 PERSONAL CARE

Iberchem explores Gen Z’s influence on fragrance

Phytosqualan powers hair innovation in A-Beauty

Innovation with a purpose

Welcome to the vibrant Q2 edition of P&C Review Africa. The African beauty landscape continues to transform, with inclusivity no longer a buzzword but the driving force behind meaningful innovation. Across the continent, we’re witnessing a beautiful convergence of science and cultural understanding, creating solutions made for Africans, by Africans. This issue celebrates how ingredients producers are addressing the unique needs of African skin and hair types with evidencebased approaches. From melanin-specific sun protection to textured hair solutions, the industry is acknowledging that true inclusivity means developing products with consumers at the very centre of research and development.

The fragrance world is evolving too! Discover how Gen Z is revolutionising scent trends with edible, nostalgic gourmand notes and personalised scent layering.

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

I’m particularly excited about our health and wellness feature, which looks at clinically backed ingredients from Savannah Fine Chemicals to support women through various life stages. We also bring you an insider’s view of Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s manufacturing facility, which is equipped to meet the needs of brand owners in Africa’s beauty and wellness markets. Hersol Manufacturing’s new automated blister packaging technology showcases fresh ways in which to meet consumers’ needs for added convenience in health supplement production and packaging. From A-Beauty hair innovations using olive-derived Phytosqualan to cutting-edge sun protection technologies, this issue celebrates the dynamic cosmetic and pharmaceutical manufacturing landscapes on the continent. Enjoy the read!

Brenntag SA 10 www.brenntag.com

Chempack Industries 5 www.cpack.co.za

CJP Chemicals 27 www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories .......... 15 ......................www.hersol.co.za

Iberchem ...................................................... 25 ......................iberchem.com

IMCD SA 13 www.imcdsa.co.za

Sabinsa 8 www.sabinsa.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals 17 www.savannah.co.za

VEGA Controls SA 19 tinyurl.com/PCRVEGAza

Zinplex Cosmeceuticals 21 www.zinplexcosmetics.co.za

Transform your cosmetic concepts into marketwinning products

Messe Frankfurt and DECHEMA team up for ACHEMA Middle East

DECHEMA, WHICH ORGANISES ACHEMA – the leading trade show for the global process industry – is launching ACHEMA Middle East in Saudi Arabia together with Messe Frankfurt.

The event will be held for the first time in Riyadh in 2026, and then every three years after that.

ACHEMA Middle East is supported by the Ministry of Industry and Mineral Resources of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. It will take place against the backdrop of Saudi Vision 2030, which is an ambitious government programme for economic and social development in the region.

The trade show will provide a new meeting place for the process industry, bringing together companies, political decision-makers and experts to showcase and discuss the very latest developments, technologies and innovations. The event organisers are aiming to attract as many as 400 international exhibitors. The trade show will be accompanied by an extensive congress programme.

Sun protection has become increasingly important for consumers around the world

Dr Björn Mathes, CEO of DECHEMA Exhibitions, explains: “We have found a strong partner in Messe Frankfurt, which shares our vision of expanding ACHEMA internationally. This includes moving into new markets and adding new, future-oriented elements to our programme. Messe Frankfurt brings to the table its vast expertise in the international trade show business and a worldwide network. At the same time, we contribute our in-depth sector knowledge and technological expertise from the chemical, pharmaceutical and biotechnology industry – not to mention the experience and community that comes from successfully organising ACHEMA for over 100 years. This opens excellent opportunities for us to firmly establish ACHEMA Middle East while reaching a global audience.”

Messe Frankfurt CEO, Wolfgang Marzin adds: “We are very proud that DECHEMA has been holding its leading event for the chemical industry at our Frankfurt base for 88 years. This is why we are pleased to join forces with DECHEMA in setting up ACHEMA Middle East and to launch this renowned brand in a new region.”

Achieve high SPF with Neo Heliopan 310 UVB filter

sunscreens and water-free formulations as well as typical emulsions.

SYMRISE HAS INTRODUCED Neo Heliopan 310 (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone) as a powerful UVB filter with an excellent solubilisation profile. The UVB filter is highly compatible with other cosmetic ingredients. It helps formulators achieve high sun protection factors (SPFs) in a range of applications. These include sunscreens, anti-ageing skincare, anti-wrinkle products, serums and lotions.

Neo Heliopan 310 is approved for use at up to 10% in sun care and skin care products in the EU, Mercosur, ASEAN, and China.

This organic crystalline UVB filter offers superior absorption capacity. It reaches an absorption peak of 310nm thanks to its three chromophore groups. As one of the most photostable UVB filters on the market, it also offers a very good safety profile and provides photoaging prevention properties. The reliable performance and excellent solubility of Neo Heliopan 310 make it ideal for water-resistant

Symrise’s leading range of UV filters entails a complete portfolio of organic, inorganic and mineral solutions. The launch of Neo Heliopan 310 further expands this offering. It provides customers with a convenient, effective and efficient solution for sun protection management, aligned with consumer expectations.

“Sun protection has become increasingly important for consumers around the world,” says Julio Bombonati, global category director sun protection at Symrise. “At Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients, we strive for continuously enhancing our UV filter portfolio with solutions like Neo Heliopan 310. Our product complies with all regulatory requirements for UV filters whilst providing strong UV protection and photoaging prevention. This comprehensive offering satisfies the needs of customers and consumers.”

Ameyezing 4.0™ clinical success on Indian skin

CRODA BEAUTY ACTIVES announces exciting new clinical data for Indian-heritage consumers with Ameyezing 4.0. This innovative bioconcealer is designed to restore the natural brightness and vitality of the eye area.

UPM Raflatac makes a sustainability impact

UPM RAFLATAC AND its partners are driving climate action in three focus areas: forests and land, emission reductions, and products and services. In its 2024 Climate Review, the company highlights its significant progress as a global partner for sustainable material solutions. Reducing the use of fossil fuels is the most important way to mitigate climate change and this remains a core focus for UPM Raflatac. Last year, it achieved a 55% reduction in its Scope 1 & 2 emission intensity compared to a 2015 baseline year. Notably, three of the company’s factories, located in China, Malaysia and Finland, implemented renewable or CO2free electricity contracts, which cover most of their power usage. This development is enabling significant progress towards the 65% reduction target by 2030.

UPM Raflatac also continued its efforts to reduce its Scope 3 emission intensity related to raw materials and transportation. To reach a 30% reduction by 2030 compared to a 2018 baseline, the company aims to focus further on value chain collaboration and product development.

A total of 100% of UPM Raflatac’s purchased paper materials were certified under a credible third-party forest certification scheme. This 2030 target was reached six years in advance by the end of 2023, a major achievement that

demonstrates the company’s sustainability leadership and ambition.

Beyond certified papers, the company strives to achieve its 2030 goal of 100% traceability of other bio-based materials, with progress in 2024 reaching 81%. As the demand for renewable solutions grows, so too does the need to ensure the sustainable origin of biobased raw materials.

To help customers make more sustainable material choices, UPM Raflatac launched several new product and service innovations. These include the Carbon Action plastic films portfolio, designed to support the packaging value chain in reducing carbon footprint and enhancing recyclability.

In a first for the labelling industry, it has integrated product footprints directly into customer quotes. The footprints, generated by the externally validated LCA service, UPM Label Life, provide actionable data-driven insights to support purchasing decisions for customers.

In addition, the UPM RafCycle™ recycling service received a certificate of validity from DEKRA for its CO2 impact assessments. This noteworthy achievement offers customers increased assurance for their contributions to label waste recycling. Explore the full 2024 Climate Review here: www.upmraflatac.com/ ebook/climate-review-2024/

The efficacy of Ameyezing 4.0 in delivering visible results on puffiness and both hyperpigmented and vascular dark circles has already been demonstrated on Caucasian and Chinese panels.

Periorbital hyperpigmentation, also known as dark circles, is a significant problem especially in Indians. Data shows that up to 50% of Indian women have moderate to severe dark circles. In response to this, Croda Beauty Actives decided to conduct additional specific studies on this population group.

Ameyezing 4.0™, applied twice daily at 1.5% in a serum and as eye-pads once weekly, significantly reduced under-eye hyperpigmentation. Clinical

results showed a 15.9% reduction in melanin index, with improvements of up to 83% compared to baseline (p<0.01). After 56 days, 100% of participants experienced visible results with excellent tolerance.

This active ingredient is efficient, inclusive and COSMOS approved. It also benefits from a transparent supply chain, ethical sourcing and is obtained via an eco-designed production process.

Consider Ameyezing 4.0™ your upcoming eye contour product development projects.

We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products!

We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products!

High Quality

Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes

Polyquaterniums and Hair Care

High Quality

Cosmetics Consumables

Products – To Facilitate Hair Handling and Styling

Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes

Cosmetics Consumables

Chempack Industries

Contact: Linda Thieme

083 600 0167

Chempack Industries

Contact: Linda Thieme

064 610 2736

083 600 0167

Email: linda@cpack.co.za

064 610 2736

Website: www.cpack.co.za

Email: linda@cpack.co.za

Website: www.cpack.co.za

analytica Lab Africa

8 to 10 July

Gauteng, South Africa analytica-africa.com

Cosmoprof North America

15 to 17 July

Las Vegas, USA

cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Coschem KZN Supplier Day 23 July

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

www.coschem.co.za

August

KZN Coschem Day

7 August

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

www.coschem.co.za CPHI Korea

26 to 28 August

Seoul, South Korea

www.cphi.com/korea/en/home

Professional Beauty South Africa

31 August to 1 September

Gauteng, South Africa

www.probeauty.co.za/johannesburg-expo/ September Propak West Africa

9 to 11 September Lagos, Nigeria www.propakwestafrica.com Coschem Scientific Conference & Gala Dinner

10 to 11 September

Gauteng, South Africa

www.coschem.co.za

Formulating inclusive solutions for African skin

As the demand increases for inclusive sun care products, Sabinsa offers innovative solutions specifically tailored for African and melanin-rich skin. Its portfolio of natural ingredients, including SabiWhite®, pTeroWhite® and Saberry®, addresses unique concerns such as hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone while providing essential UV protection.

For centuries, the sun has been a vital force and a hidden threat, especially for melanin-rich skin. While dark skin naturally offers some level of protection against UV radiation, it is far from immune to sun’s damaging effects.

As global awareness of skin health grows, the gap in sun care solutions tailored to darker skin tones becomes increasingly apparent. Despite misconceptions about melanin providing complete defence, research has consistently highlighted the need for targeted sun protection to preserve skin health and combat the long-term effects of UV exposure. Sabinsa’s scientifically validated ingredients help create sun care solutions that cater specifically to the needs of melanin-rich skin, ensuring effective protection and enhanced skin health.

The science behind the need

Melanin offers a natural protection equivalent to SPF 13 to 16, but it is not enough to fully protect against the cumulative effects of UVA and UVB radiation. A study published in the journal Cureus confirmed that UV radiation accelerates photoaging and contributes to pigmentary disorders across all skin types.1

Despite these risks, sunscreen use among African consumers remains low, primarily due to poor cosmetic acceptability. Many existing sunscreens leave a visible white cast on darker skin, which deters regular use. This presents a unique opportunity for formulators to create innovative products that blend seamlessly into skin tones while providing adequate UV protection.

Multifunctional solutions for diverse needs

African skincare concerns often go beyond just UV protection. Hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, and environmental stress are significant consumer issues. To address these challenges, multifunctional ingredients that combine sun protection with additional benefits like antioxidant activity and skin-brightening effects are key. Sabinsa’s ingredients are perfect for these formulations.

Next-gen

ingredient SabiWhite®

SabiWhite® (INCI: Tetrahydrodiferuloyl-methane) is a leading solution for skin brightening, UV defence and oxidative stress protection. Derived from Curcuma longa (Turmeric) roots, this

colour-free natural extract is a potent antioxidant, slowing down melanogenesis and inhibiting tyrosinase activity.

Scientific studies confirm SabiWhite®’s superior efficacy, showcasing 50% inhibition of tyrosinase, outperforming traditional brightening agents like kojic acid. With a remarkable free radical scavenging activity, the extract protects skin cells from oxidative damage, including UV-induced stress, with maximum fibroblast protection of 41.8%.

As a next-generation ingredient for UV protection, anti-ageing and skin brightening formulations, SabiWhite® delivers unmatched efficacy – naturally, safely and effectively.

pTeroWhite®

natural antioxidant

Pterostilbene is a natural dimethylated resveratrol analogue, predominantly found in the heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium. This natural antioxidant has shown promise in protecting against UVB-

induced skin damage and ageing. It has been reported that Pterostilbene enhances the nuclear translocation of Nrf2 in human keratinocytes, boosting antioxidant enzyme expression and DNA repair. This action helps reduce oxidative stress caused by UVB exposure, making it an effective ingredient for sun protection and anti-ageing benefits in skincare formulations.

Known for its powerful antioxidant properties, pTeroWhite® (INCI Name: Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract) has been clinically proven to reduce pigmentation and improve skin luminosity.

A randomised, placebo-controlled trial in 2020 showed that topical formulations with 0.4%

Sunscreen use among African consumers remains low, primarily due to poor cosmetic acceptability

pTeroWhite® resulted in a 17% improvement in skin luminosity and a 24% reduction in the melanin index after eight weeks of use. This makes it an ideal active for treating hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure.2

Saberry® for melanin inhibition

Extracted from Indian gooseberry, Saberry® (INCI: Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract) is a potent antioxidant with superior melanin inhibition compared to other skin-brightening agents like ascorbic acid. Saberry® is standardised to contain a minimum of 10% β‐Glucogallin, contributing to its efficacy in neutralising free radicals and promoting collagen synthesis.

In the evolving skincare market, where innovation meets nature, Saberry® is a gamechanger in the fight against UV-induced skin damage. Harnessed from the potent Amla (Emblica officinalis) fruit, this powerhouse ingredient from Sabinsa offers a holistic approach to preserving youthful, luminous skin. Excessive sun exposure accelerates oxidative stress, leading to premature ageing and dullness. Rich in bioactive compounds, Saberry® works to actively neutralise harmful free radicals, revitalising skin’s natural defence system. The result is enhanced hydration, improved elasticity, and a visible reduction in the signs of photoaging. Infused in serums, creams, or supplements, Saberry® empowers skin with lasting radiance and resilience.

Saberry® for melanin inhibition

Extracted from Indian gooseberry, Saberry® (INCI: Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract) is a potent antioxidant with superior melanin inhibition compared to other skin-brightening agents like ascorbic acid. Saberry® is standardised to contain

a minimum of 10% β‐Glucogallin, contributing to its efficacy in neutralising free radicals and promoting collagen synthesis.

In the evolving skincare market, where innovation meets nature, Saberry® is a gamechanger in the fight against UV-induced skin damage. Harnessed from the potent Amla (Emblica officinalis) fruit, this powerhouse ingredient from Sabinsa offers a holistic approach to preserving youthful, luminous skin. Excessive sun exposure accelerates oxidative stress, leading to premature ageing and dullness. Rich in bioactive compounds, Saberry® works to actively neutralise harmful free radicals, revitalising skin’s natural defence system. The result is enhanced hydration, improved elasticity, and a visible reduction in the signs of photoaging. Infused in serums, creams, or supplements, Saberry® empowers skin with lasting radiance and resilience.

Bridging gaps in sun protection

With pioneering ingredients and a commitment to innovation, Sabinsa is redefining sun care for melanin-rich skin. By bridging the gap between protection and cosmetic elegance, these advanced formulation technologies ensure every skin tone receives the defence mechanisms and nourishment it deserves.

REFERENCES:

1. Brar G, Dhaliwal A, Brar AS, Sreedevi M, Ahmadi Y, Irfan M, Golbari R, Zumárraga D, Yateem D, Lysak Y, Abarca-Pineda YA. A Comprehensive Review of the Role of UV Radiation in Photoaging Processes Between Different Types of Skin. Cureus. 2025 Mar 24;17(3):e81109. doi: 10.7759/cureus.81109. PMID: 40276407; PMCID: PMC12018068.

2. Majeed M, Majeed S, Jain R, Mundkur L, Rajalakshmi HR, Lad PS, Neupane P. An Open-Label Single-Arm, Monocentric Study Assessing the Efficacy and Safety of Natural Pterostilbene Pterocarpus marsupium for Skin Brightening and Antiaging Effects. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020 Jan 31;13:105-116. doi: 10.2147/CCID. S238358. PMID: 32099438; PMCID: PMC6999773.

The next wave of innovation

As sun care evolves beyond traditional protection, next-generation UV filters and innovative product formats are shaping the future of sun protection. Consumers are demanding gentler, highly effective and multifunctional formulations, driving the adoption of second-generation UV filters with superior photostability, lower concentrations and enhanced sensory appeal.

Sun protection is no longer just about preventing burns. It is now an integral part of daily skincare, hair care, colour cosmetics and overall wellness. Several key market drivers are shaping the next wave of sun care innovation:

• The rise of second-generation UV filters

– Traditional UV filters have faced increasing regulatory scrutiny and consumer demand for milder, skin-friendly ingredients. Next-generation UV filters such as Sarasorb BEMT, Sarasorb DHHB and Sarasorb EHT offer:

- improved photostability reducing the need for frequent reapplication

- efficient protection achieved using lower concentrations which also improves formulation flexibility

- better skin compatibility making them ideal for sensitive skin eco-conscious profiles addressing environmental concerns.

• The skinification of hair and scalp protection

– As consumers become more aware of UV damage to the scalp and hair, brands

are introducing dedicated sun care solutions. Hair protection is now a key extension of skincare, leading to innovative formats like the Sun & sea mist biphasic SPF 30 hair spray, which delivers UV protection alongside conditioning benefits. This bi-phasic microemulsion ensures even distribution of oil- and water-soluble ingredients, combining lightweight sensoriality with long-lasting performance and a clear, elegant visual appeal.

• Multifunctional and sensorial sunscreens –Consumers want convenience without compromise. Sun care must be lightweight, easy to use and elegant on the skin. Stick formats, biphasic sprays and invisible sunscreen formulations are gaining traction. The Clear

Sun care must be lightweight, easy to use and elegant on the skin

Sarasorb DHHB™ Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 3.00

Sarasorb EHT™ Ethylhexyl Triazone 5.00

Sarasorb EHS™ Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00

Sarasorb BEMT™ Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 4.00

Solastay® S1 Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene 1.00

Hallbrite® BHB Butyloctyl Salicylate 5.00

Bright Oleoactif® Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract

B Oilkemia™ 5S Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyurethane-79

C AEROSIL® R 972 Silica Dimethyl Silylate 4.00

D Gransense TC-18X/C Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Triheptanoin, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer 10.00

E Maldive Days EAN40953/00 Parfum (Fragrance) 1.20

sunscreen stick SPF 50+ exemplifies this shift with a non-greasy, transparent finish and high SPF performance.

Formulation inspiration

Major brands are already leveraging next-generation UV filters to create highly effective yet elegant sun care solutions. Brenntag’s formulations demonstrate:

• Enhanced photostability and lower filter concentrations enabling lightweight skin-friendly sun care that is environmentally friendly.

as bio-based emollients and actives for added skincare benefits.

• Multifunctional formulas which include sciencebacked active ingredients.

• Advanced UV filters like Sarasorb BEMT and Sarasorb DHHB outperform traditional filters in stability, efficacy and user experience, according to scientific studies.

Outlook and recommendations

The sun care market is changing in exciting ways. We can expect to see more hybrid SPF products that offer extra benefits, including better protection for hair and scalp, tinted options that combine makeup with sun protection, and multi-benefit sunscreens that do more than just protect from UV rays.

Brands are moving towards gentler, more stable UV filters that are cleaner and more environmentally friendly. There is also a growing focus from brands to help consumers understand sun protection better through clear labelling and honest SPF claims. This helps build trust and keeps customers engaged with these products.

• Hybrid formats like biphasic mists and invisible sticks to meet consumer demand for ease of use and sensorial appeal.

• The incorporation of skin-loving ingredients such

Advanced UV filters & full-service support for sun care formulations

Formulators can leverage nextgeneration UV filters to design highly stable and elegant sun care formulations. They should explore new textures and formats to align with consumer demand for nongreasy lightweight SPF products. They can also incorporate skincare actives to enhance the dual benefits of sun care and skin health. Contact Brenntag SA’s Beauty & Care team for more guidance on sunscreens and sun care ingredients and UV filters.

Innovative, next-generation UV filters – powered by Sarex Overseas, Distributed by Brenntag Beauty & Personal Care

Our High-Performance UV Filters

• Sarasorb MTM (MBBT) – broad-spectrum UVA & UVB protection

• Sarasorb BEMT™ – stable, high-efficacy UVA filter

• Sarasorb EHT™ – maximum UVB absorption

• Sarasorb DHHB™ – anti-ageing UVA filter

• Sarasorb TDSA™ – proven UVA protection

• Sarasorb M Aqua™ & PBSA™ – water-phase, light-feel UV filters

Why partner with Brenntag?

• Complete portfolio of UV filters, actives and specialty ingredients

• Technical expertise by our Beauty & Personal Care team

• Customized formulation support

• Innovative, trend-driven ingredient solutions

We help you create effective, safe & sensorypleasing sun care products.

Reimagining sun protection beyond the white cast

In the evolving landscape of inclusive beauty, one critical gap remains underserved – effective sun protection for skin of colour. Jan Dekker’s technical manager, Henk de Jager delves into this pressing need.

Awareness is growing of the effects of UV rays beyond sunburn, such as skin ageing. Yet there are major misconceptions of this when it comes to skin of colour (SOC).

Many consumers are aware of the importance of everyday UV protection – even beyond outdoor activities or beach visits. The use of UV filters in everyday skincare is a good idea, considering the daily threat of UVA irradiation, even when shielded by a car window for example. UV-linked skin cancers are reported to occur more frequently on the driver's side arm than on the other arm.

Skin of colour is not immune

The risk of sunburn and melanoma formation in SOC caused by UV exposure is much lower than in light-skin individuals. Yet awareness of the importance sun protection for SOC is growing. This is reflected in increasing sunscreen use by people of colour (Mintel 2023). After all, SOC is not immune to non-melanoma skin cancers, hyperpigmentation and other detrimental skin effects of UV exposure. This is due to the gap between the required protection levels and the natural protection offered by melanin in SOC.

It is estimated that the SPF of light skin is 3.4 +/–0.7, versus 13 +/– 3 of dark skin (using 10 subjects in

each group), still leaving a gap in the protection of SOC (Kaidbey et al. 1979). Considering the risks of sun exposure, SOC is not exempt from needing sun protection.

Limitations in UVA protection

Sunscreen products that are optimised for lightskin individuals might not be ideal for SOC. The EU has specified minimum criteria for the SPF, and more importantly, the ratio of UVA protection factor and SPF, recognising why robust protection is crucial to combat skin-ageing UVA. This UVA requirement falls short in the case of SOC, as UVA-I (340nm to 400nm) causes hyperpigmentation in skin types IV to VI, unlike in skin type II (Mahmoud et al. 2010). Indeed, hyperpigmentation is more common in SOC (65%) than light skin (2.8%). It is also one of the most common reasons for visiting a dermatologist (Callender et al. 2022).

The white cast caused by some UV filters can be a barrier to a proper sun protection regime

Considering the propensity of SOC to develop hyperpigmentation, more robust UVA protection is needed. It is advocated to increase the UVA PF/ SPF ratio from a minimum of 1/3 to a minimum of 2/3 with increasingly darker skin (Seck et al. 2023), ultimately combating the dangers of UVA. This would require strong UVA filters, such as HELIOPTIS DHHB.

Organic filters for attractive sunscreens

The white cast caused by some UV filters can be a barrier to a proper sun protection regime. According to Mintel (2023), 84% of sunscreen users with skin of colour desire more products specifically formulated for their skin tone, highlighting a significant opportunity for skin tone-targeted product development.

Organic UV filters avoid the white cast associated with some mineral UV filters.

The HELIOPTIS range by IMCD’s Jan Dekker brand provides a series of new-generation sunscreens that answer today’s demand for safe and effective sun filters.

This new generation of sunscreens offer many advantages, such as high photostability ensuring consistent protection over time, virtually no skin penetration as an additional safety layer above its inherent safety, and no endocrine disrupting properties dictating safety levels.

The UV filters are also backed by good efficacy data. HELIOPTIS EHT (Ethylhexyl Triazone) is one example in the range with an extremely high specific absorbance of over 1550 in the UVB range, requiring low concentrations to reach certain SPFs.

Did you know?

While most people focus on UV protection, darker skin tones (types IV to VI) are uniquely susceptible to hyperpigmentation from UVA-1 rays and visible light (400nm to 700nm). Research has shown that visible light causes darker and more persistent pigmentation in darker skin tones compared to lighter skin (type II), which isn't affected by visible light (Mahmoud et al. 2010). This finding suggests people with darker skin need specialised sunscreens that effectively block both UV and visible light spectrum for complete protection.

UVA and broadspectrum options

HELIOPTIS BEMT (BisEthylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) and HELIOPTIS MBBT aqua (active: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) are both broad spectrum UV filters, working in the UVA and UVB ranges.

HELIOPTIS MBBT is a nano dispersion, enabling an easy addition to the water phase of the final product, even in cold processes. It also has scattering properties, creating a longer ‘path’ on the skin which boosts absorption.

Antioxidants deserve special attention when formulating sunscreens

HELIOPTIS DHHB (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate) is an ideal UVA filter for creating sunscreens with a robust UVA protection. It specifically targets the UVA requirement of the European Union and and that of products for SOC.

Formulating with UV filters

A proper dissolution is essential for effective sun protection. Solvents such as HELIOPTIS DBA (Dibutyl Adipate) or HELIOPTIS DCC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) help with the proper incorporation of organic UV filters. Being relatively polar, dibutyl adipate is also a conscious choice for efficacy, as its nature has a positive influence on the UVA absorbency of organic filters. Historically, organic UV filters have the reputation of providing a greasy consistency. However, with the proper product matrix type and the appropriate selection of other ingredients in the formulation, it is possible to obtain light, non-greasy formula. Even soft, powdery consistencies with a highly matte appearance are possible with these and other modern ingredients, drastically improving sun care acceptance, while having a high in vitro SPF of 50+ (IMCD 2025).

Using antioxidants and actives

Antioxidants deserve special attention when formulating sunscreens. Antioxidants can even be considered to minimise the effects of UV on the influence of MMPs – creating an opportunity to include more benefits in a final product.

Tocopherols are effective free-radical scavengers. They are also perceived as ‘value-adding’ on a product label. Jan Dekker’s TOCOMIX range offers highpurity, effective natural tocopherols. They are of food-grade quality in line with the sustainability trend to upcycle ingredients from food by-products – which is highly popular in Europe.

In line with the awareness of the risks of UV exposure, actives that offer protection beyond the obvious, tend to attract attention these days. A good example is ectoine (ACTIWISE ECTOINE), which might be considered as the new niacinamide (ACTIWISE NIACINAMIDE 100). Ectoine is obtained from bacteria, which can survive under extreme conditions. Its survival mechanisms appear useful to protect skin from UV-induced damage, as tests have shown.

REFERENCES:

• Callender VD, Baldwin H, Cook-Bolden FE, Alexis AF, Stein Gold L, Guenin E. (2022): Effects of Topical Retinoids on Acne and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Skin of Color: A Clinical Review and Implications for Practice. Am J Clin Dermatol. 23(1):69-81.

• IMCD 2025: internal work, IMCD formulation labs.

• Kaidbey KH, Agin PP, Sayre RM, Kligman AM. (1979): Photoprotection by melanin--a comparison of black and Caucasian skin. Am Acad Dermatol. 1(3):249-60.

• Mahmoud BH, Ruvolo E, Hexsel CL, Liu Y, Owen MR, Kollias N, Lim HW, Hamzavi IH. (2010): Impact of long-wavelength UVA and visible light on melanocompetent skin. J Invest Dermatol. 130(8):2092-7.

• Mintel 2023: https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/sunscreen-fountain-of-youth-useof-sunscreen-for-anti-aging-purposes-increased-25-from-2021-22

• Seck S, Hamad J, Schalka S, Lim HW. (2023): Photoprotection in skin of color. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 22(2):441-456.

Elevate Your Sun Protection Game

Tailored Solutions for Every Skin Tone

Skin of colour deserves dedicated sun protection. We help you create advanced sunscreens that address the unique needs of all skin types — for protection that’s as inclusive as it is effective. IMCD South Africa

W www.imcdsa.co.za E angie.ellis@imcdsa.co.za

Health supplement brands can rely on Hersol to provide innovative solutions

Cutting-edge packaging meets consumer convenience

In a notable development for health supplement brands, Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories installed a state-of-the-art automated blister packaging earlier this year. This innovative addition to the factory floor meets the rising demand from health supplement brands for multi-component blister packs.

As a leading contract manufacturer specialising in pharmaceuticals and health supplements, Hersol’s investment in an automated blister machine addresses a growing need in the nutraceutical category. This is the surge in popularity for multi-component blisters where different dietary supplements are combined into a single sheet of blister packaging. Multi-component blisters are particularly appealing to consumers because of their convenience, allowing a brand or product to cater to multiple nutritional needs without the consumer having to juggle numerous bottles and boxes. This trend aligns perfectly with Hersol’s strategic vision, which focuses on enhancing efficiencies

and delivering solutions that simplify and enhance the experience of the end user.

Cutting-edge capabilities

The new blister machine is commissioned and up and running. It can pack PVC, PVDC foil and aluminium blisters, and is engineered to produce up to 2 400 blister packaging sheets per hour. This significantly boosts the contract manufacturer’s production capacity while maintaining impeccable quality standards. The machine is a technological marvel in that most production processes are automated, minimising human intervention and thereby reducing the potential for error. It seamlessly integrates advanced quality control measures, meticulously inspecting

each blister pack. Defective blisters with missing or compromised components are automatically rejected, ensuring that only the correct combo of products (capsules, pill or tablets) reaches the end user.

In addition to its impressive output, the machine is lauded for its energy efficiency.

Utilising a small yet powerful modern motor and PLC system, it offers significant reductions in energy consumption compared to traditional machinery. This aligns with Hersol's commitment to sustainability and operational efficiency, enabling the contract manufacturer to increase operational capacity by 33% while reducing its environmental footprint.

Hersol has always stood by its principle of uncompromising quality, and the new

Did you know?

The global personalised nutrition market, which includes customised supplement solutions like multi-component blister packs, was valued at approximately $15.56 billion in 2024. The market is projected to grow at an impressive CAGR of 16.84% to reach $46.87 billion by 2032. This rapid growth reflects the increasing demand for convenient, personalised health solutions.

Source: Fortune Business Insights

machine is no exception. It further solidifies the company’s standing as a trusted partner for health supplement brands aiming to deliver exceptional products to their consumers.

Anticipating future expansion

While the focus of this new machine is set on meeting the needs of the nutraceutical market, the flexibility it offers presents opportunities for diversification. Health supplement brands can leverage Hersol’s advanced packaging solutions to explore new product offerings and meet emerging consumer demands for personalised nutritional supplements.

In the evolving landscape of health supplements, the advancements in blister packaging technology at this contract manufacturer mark a pivotal point for the industry, heralding an era of enhanced efficiency, quality and sustainability. As the category continues to expand, health supplement brands can rely on Hersol to provide the innovative solutions needed to stay ahead in a competitive market.

Discover the power of partnership with Hersol Manufacturing Labs!

At Hersol, we put people first. Our commitment to our clients goes beyond mere production – we’re dedicated to transforming your vision into reality. With our unparalleled expertise in formulation development, meticulous raw material sourcing, and cutting-edge pilot scale production capabilities, Hersol empowers you to bring your innovative concepts to life.

Why choose Hersol as your contract manufacturer? Because we understand the importance of trust and reliability in every step of the journey. From concept to creation, we ensure that every aspect of product development and production is handled with precision and care.

With our unmatched expertise, cutting-edge facilities, unwavering commitment to quality and dedication to customer satisfaction, choose us as your contract manufacturer, unlock endless possibilities for innovation and growth in the complementary medicines industry and experience the diff erence first-hand.

Ingredients to support women in every life stage

Throughout life’s journey, from early womanhood to maturity, women’s health needs evolve. Savannah Fine Chemicals offers a variety of scientifically substantiated ingredients, which address these changing requirements.

The women’s health market is seeing a significant shift toward personalised solutions that meet specific health concerns at different life stages. Recent market research shows growing consumer interest in evidencebased, natural ingredients that support physical and mental wellbeing, with particular focus on hormonal balance, microbiome health and age-related concerns.

Support through the stages of life

Veri-te™ Resveratrol is a premiumgrade trans-resveratrol, produced through innovative yeast fermentation technology. This bioactive polyphenol delivers exceptional benefits for women, particularly during and after menopause.

The landmark RESHAW study (Resveratrol Supporting Healthy Aging in Women) provides compelling evidence for resveratrol’s efficacy. This 24-month controlled trial demonstrated significant improvements in cognitive performance, cerebral blood flow, and reduced arterial stiffness (Zaw, Howe, & Wong 2020, Nutrients).

What makes Veri-te™ Resveratrol exceptional is not just its proven health benefits, but also its purity. At >98% pure trans-resveratrol, the product is free from contaminants with Halal, Kosher and EFSA novel food approvals. For mature women, resveratrol delivers three crucial benefits:

1. Bone health – clinical studies confirm it increases bone mineral density in

the lumbar spine and femoral neck, which are critical areas prone to osteoporotic fractures (Wong et al., Journal of Bone and Mineral Research, 2020).

2. Cognitive function – research shows it enhances memory, mood and cerebrovascular function, all particularly important as women face increased risk of dementia compared to men.

3. Hormonal balance – by activating SIRT1, a protein regulating cellular ageing, and exhibiting phytoestrogen activity, resveratrol helps combat age-related cellular damage while compensating for reduced estrogen during menopause.

Tailored probiotic solutions

Novonesis offers specialised probiotic combinations to address the unique microbiome challenges women experience during different life stages.

For early womanhood and vaginal health, UREX® combines Lactobacillus rhamnosus GR-1® and Lactobacillus reuteri RC-14®.

Clinical studies by Petricevic et al. (2008) and Martinez et al. (2009) confirm these strains effectively restore and maintain vaginal microbiome balance while preventing urinary tract discomfort.

ASTARTE™, featuring four carefully selected Lactobacillus strains (L. crispatus LbV 88™, L. jensenii LbV 116™, L. gasseri LbV 150N™, and L. rhamnosus LbV 96™), provides the most common bacterial species found in a healthy vagina. Research by Laue et al. (2018) and Anoshina et al. (2016) demonstrates its effectiveness in establishing healthy vaginal microflora while reducing digestive complaints.

Using these premium ingredients, manufacturers can develop targeted formulations that support women through every stage of life

For pregnancy and motherhood, Novonesis offers a unique synbiotic combination of Lactobacillus rhamnosus LGG®, ISTILOS™ (seeded with Bifidobacterium infantis), and 2’-Fucosyllactose (2’-FL). This combination supports maternal microbiome health while reducing the risk of atopic conditions in infants, as shown in studies by Kalliomäki et al. (2001, 2007).

Lactobacillus reuteri LRC™ supports metabolic health during mature life stages. It helps women maintain healthy LDL cholesterol levels and improving serum vitamin D status, as documented by Jones et al. (2012, 2013).

Comprehensive solutions

Savannah Fine Chemicals provides a portfolio of ingredients to nutraceutical brands and product developers committed to meeting women’s evolving health needs. These ingredients are suitable for the following applications:

• Clinically documented probiotic strains for vaginal health to restore and maintain beneficial microflora

• Resveratrol for cognitive health, bone strength and hormonal balance to improve general wellbeing

• Targeted probiotics for metabolic health to support healthy cholesterol levels and improve women’s vitamin D status

• Pregnancy support in the form of specialised synbiotics, which benefit mother and infant

• Evidence-based solutions for menopausal comfort to manage physical and mental symptoms. Using these premium ingredients, manufacturers can develop targeted formulations that support women through every stage of life. Contact Savannah Fine Chemicals for more information.

Filling without the fails

In pharma and cosmetics manufacturing, precision in bulk packaging is essential for product quality, regulatory compliance and operational efficiency. VEGA’s VEGAFLEX 83 guided wave radar sensor delivers the accuracy and reliability manufacturers need to overcome challenging production environments while meeting stringent requirements.

Authorities like the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC), South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA), the FDA in the USA and the EMA in Europe impose strict requirements on pharmaceutical and cosmetic packaging. Manufacturers and brand owners must document and validate every stage of the process, ensuring that product handling, storage and filling meet hygiene and safety standards.

Different products behave differently during packaging. Thick creams or gels may stick to equipment, while powders can become airborne and cause contamination. Liquids can generate foam or bubbles, which affect accurate level measurement in holding tanks.

Maintaining exact levels in batch holding tanks during filling is not an option or nice to have – it is essential

The importance of maintaining sterility Equipment used for bulk packaging must be easy to clean and resistant to crosscontamination. Any error in packaging can lead to costly recalls or reputational damage. Pumps, sensors and valves must handle constant use without degradation.

Some pharmaceutical ingredients are corrosive, abrasive or sensitive to temperature, which makes choosing the right instrumentation essential. Manufacturers must balance speed and accuracy. A slow process leads to inefficiency and higher costs, but rushing things can cause spillage, incorrect filling, or safety hazards.

Bulk packaging lines must integrate seamlessly with upstream production and downstream distribution. Any bottleneck in the process can disrupt the entire supply chain. This is why choosing the right instrumentation, such as VEGA’s VEGAFLEX 83 for level measurement, helps manufacturers navigate these challenges with accuracy, reliability and compliance.

A solution to bulk packaging challenges

Think about bulk packaging. Maintaining exact levels in batch holding tanks during filling is not an option or nice to have – it is essential. Accurate level measurement ensures that each batch meets the specified volume, maintaining product consistency and preventing overfilling or underfilling, which can lead to significant financial loss and regulatory issues. The VEGAFLEX 83 guided wave radar sensor offers an exceptional solution to these challenges. Designed for continuous level and interface measurement, this sensor operates reliably

even in conditions that typically thwart other measurement technologies. Its ability to function unaffected by steam, buildup, foam or condensation makes it particularly suitable for the complex environments found in pharmaceutical packaging. The VEGAFLEX 83 uses high-frequency microwave pulses guided along a probe. When these pulses encounter the product surface, they are reflected to the sensor, allowing for precise level measurement. This method ensures accuracy regardless of the medium’s properties, such as density or temperature, which can vary significantly during different stages of production. For instance, in batch holding tanks where the product may foam or generate condensation, the VEGAFLEX 83 continues to provide reliable data, ensuring that each batch is processed correctly.

Designed for compliance, built for reliability

Adherence to regulatory standards is a critical aspect of pharmaceutical manufacturing. In South

Africa, SAHPRA mandates strict compliance with hygiene and safety protocols, while NAFDAC does the same in Nigeria. The VEGAFLEX 83 is designed with these regulations in mind, featuring gapfree hygienic design, which ensures simple and reliable cleanability. This design minimises the risk of contamination, a crucial factor in maintaining product integrity and meeting SAHPRA’s stringent standards.

The sensor’s maintenance-free operation enhances plant efficiency. In an industry where interruptions can be costly, the reliability of the VEGAFLEX 83 ensures continuous operation without the need for frequent maintenance interventions. Its durable construction and advanced technology reduce the likelihood of sensor failure, supporting uninterrupted production schedules.

The practical benefits of the VEGAFLEX 83 are exemplified when implementing the sensor in batch holding tanks during the filling process. Accurate level measurement prevents overfilling, which can cause spillage, waste and potential safety hazards. Conversely, underfilling can lead to product shortages and inconsistent quality. By providing precise level data, the VEGAFLEX 83 ensures that each batch is filled to the correct volume, maintaining consistency and quality across the production line. The sensor’s

guided adjustment feature enables a simple, time-saving and reliable setup. This ease of installation allows for quick integration into existing systems, minimising disruption during implementation. Once operational, the VEGAFLEX 83 delivers continuous, real-time data, empowering operators to make informed decisions and promptly address any issues that may arise during the filling process.

Instrumentation delivers on every requirement

VEGA’s level and pressure instrumentation, like the VEGAFLEX 83, plays a fundamental role in optimising bulk packaging processes in pharmaceutical and cosmetics manufacturing. By ensuring accurate level measurement in batch holding tanks, these instruments uphold product quality, enhance operational efficiency and ensure compliance with regulatory standards.

In industries where accuracy and hygiene are non-negotiable, VEGA provides the tools necessary to meet these demands, supporting manufacturers in delivering safe and effective products to market.

Want the cleanest processes? We supply the measurement technology.

Quality and innovation you can trust

Discover

why leading African brands choose Zinplex Cosmeceutical as their manufacturing partner of choice. Transform your vision into reality with a team that understands Africa’s beauty and wellness markets from the inside out.

In the dynamic world of cosmetics and health supplements, Zinplex Cosmeceutical has carved a niche for itself over the past decade. Established in 2015, the company was born out of a desire to develop its own cosmeceutical products while growing into a trusted contract manufacturer. Subsequently, the business has expanded into a fully equipped operation, complete with a cuttingedge R&D laboratory and stability testing capabilities for cosmetic products.

Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s journey began with the vision of blending pharmaceutical precision with the beauty and brilliance of cosmetics. This vision has been realised within its class leading manufacturing facility, which is based in Pretoria and adheres to pharmaceutical-grade production standards. The company recently attained its Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) qualification, highlighting a commitment to maintaining stringent safety and quality protocols. Its e-mark accreditation also guarantees that all products filled at Zinplex Cosmeceutical meet the highest industry standards, delivering quality and peace of mind to

By Abby Vorster

customers. These accreditations assure customers throughout Africa that products manufactured by Zinplex Cosmeceutical meet international safety standards, which is essential for any brand looking to export to international markets. Its manufacturing facility is equipped with state-of-the-art machinery capable of crafting a diverse range of cosmetic and healthcare formulations, such as creams, gels, serums, and even dry powder products. This diversity not only showcases the manufacturer’s versatility but also its capacity to innovate across product categories.

A partnership for success

Understanding the complexities and challenges faced by brand owners, particularly smaller enterprises, Zinplex Cosmeceutical has embraced a flexible business model. It offers solutions tailored to the specific needs of each customer, highlighted by its ability to accommodate lower minimum order quantities (MOQs) for brands that provide their own raw materials and packaging. This approach not only makes high-quality production accessible to start-ups and smaller brands but also fosters an environment of partnership and growth.

Furthermore, Zinplex Cosmeceutical extends its expertise beyond manufacturing. Its in-house design services empower brands to conceptualise and realise their product visions, offering a seamless journey from ideation to product launch. This comprehensive support reinforces the contract manufacturer’s role as a full-service partner, guiding customers at each step of their journey.

Products manufactured by Zinplex Cosmeceutical meet international safety standards

Novel product lines and market adaptation

The product portfolio of Zinplex Cosmeceutical is a tapestry of innovation, responding adeptly to consumer needs and market trends. Even amid challenges like the COVID-19 pandemic, the company demonstrated remarkable agility by launching new products such as hand sanitisers to meet emerging consumer demands.

It is home to numerous product innovations, with standout offerings including the Zinplex Baby Bum Spray, designed for tender care; the Cooldown and Warm-Up Gels, catering to sports and active lifestyles; and the highly acclaimed Zinplex Spot Control, addressing common skincare concerns.

These novel products have all been launched in response to market demand while illustrating the manufacturer’s proactive approach to defining and leading market trends. Zinplex Cosmeceutical continues to push boundaries, ensuring its product lines evolve alongside consumer expectations.

Facing challenges with fortitude

The past decade has not been without its challenges. The global supply chain disruptions posed by the pandemic and shifts in consumer behaviors required rapid adaptations.

Zinplex Cosmeceutical met these challenges head-on, leveraging its agility and worldclass infrastructure to maintain product availability and quality. Its potential to adapt swiftly without compromising on quality standards is a testament to the company’s efficient operational model and committed team.

Looking ahead, Zinplex Cosmeceutical is poised for consistent growth and expansion. Its vision for the next decade is ambitious and inspiring – the team aims to elevate its service offerings and strengthen its position as a trusted partner

in the cosmetics and health supplements industries. By continuing to invest in its R&D and manufacturing capabilities, Zinplex Cosmeceutical is set to enhance its value proposition to customers as a one-stop shop.

A vision for the future

Zinplex Cosmeceutical’s journey over the past 10 years is a remarkable narrative of growth, resilience and innovation. As the business celebrates this significant milestone, it remains true to its core values of quality, safety and partnership.

The company’s contributions to the industries it serves extend beyond products with the drive to help shape the future landscape of cosmetics and nutraceuticals in South Africa and beyond.

Did you know?

Zinplex Cosmeceutical operates a modern water filtration plant, producing still and flavoured water with customisable labels and cap colours, tailored to meet each customer’s unique needs.

As Zinplex Cosmeceutical looks to the future, it does so with confidence and an unwavering commitment to excellence.

The benefits of creatine for women are often underplayed –and this needs to change

New perspectives on creatine and hydration

Creatine has been misunderstood for too long. Once pigeonholed as a bodybuilding supplement, it is now gaining traction for its wider benefits –from hydration to hormone health to brain function. In this article, Andy Moore of Nutritional Performance Labs, explores how creatine is reshaping our understanding of daily wellness, particularly for women.

If you lift weights or follow anyone who does, the word creatine likely conjures images of big tubs, protein shakers and bulked-up gym floors. But the science and the fitness industry have progressed. The real story now is less about mass and more about balance –hydration, cognition, and yes, hormone health. Especially for women.

For years, creatine has sat quietly on the shelf while flashy, less-proven supplements passed through our feeds. Yet no other compound has been as thoroughly studied or as consistently supported by scientific data. It’s time to take another look – not through the narrow lens of muscle building, but through the wider frame of overall wellbeing. And hydration is where that shift starts.

The science behind the hype

At its core, creatine’s job is to help the cells produce energy, fast. It fuels short, sharp bursts of effort – sprints, lifts, high-intensity exercise – but its benefits don’t stop when you leave the gym.

When creatine pulls water into your muscle cells, it doesn’t just make them

look ‘fuller’. The intracellular water helps with thermoregulation, nutrient transport and metabolic function. It’s one of the most effective ways to promote true hydration – not just more fluid in the bloodstream, but more water where it matters.

Creatine helps to stabilise energy. It also assists better recovery, helps to reduce cramps and improves heat tolerance. When paired with electrolytes like sodium, magnesium and potassium, creatine becomes part of a smarter hydration solution – especially in hot climates or during long periods of physical stress.

Creatine isn’t just for men

The benefits of creatine for women are often underplayed – and this needs to change.

Multiple studies have shown creatine can help women preserve lean muscle during calorie restriction. It can also help support bone density and even improve mood and memory.

Creatine has been linked to better cognitive performance during stress and sleep deprivation – two conditions often lacking in modern life.

Did you know?

Today’s creatine blends, especially those with added BCAAs and electrolytes, are designed for daily use. This matters, because many of the non-performance benefits – like mood, cognition, hydration – only show up when creatine is part of your regular routine.

Creatine may support hormonal balance, particularly during menstruation, pregnancy and perimenopause. Oestrogen plays a role in creatine synthesis, so when levels drop, supplementation can help plug the gap. This means more mental clarity, less fatigue and

There’s a quiet revolution happening in how we view supplements for brain function

Compared to conventional metallic stearates, Novalube has a better mouth feel which makes it suitable for tablets that dissolve in the mouth and effervescent tablets.

A smarter approach

If you’re thinking of creatine purely in terms of bodybuilding, you’re missing most of its value. It’s not about getting bigger. It’s about working smarter with how the body fuels, hydrates and recovers.

better training outcomes across all life stages.

Hydration is also more complex for women than most hydration marketing admits. Hormonal fluctuations change how the body retains and uses water. Creatine combined with electrolytes offers a more tailored solution than just throwing back another bottle of water.

The cognitive edge

There’s a quiet revolution happening in how we view supplements for brain function. Creatine is a key part of this.

The brain runs on ATP, the same cellular energy currency as muscles. Supplementing with creatine has been shown to improve working memory, reduce mental fatigue and even buffer the effects of sleep loss. This is key for knowledge workers, students, shift workers or anyone balancing high cognitive loads.

Creatine doesn’t replace a good night’s sleep or a balanced diet, but it can help the brain stretch its resources further. Unlike many nootropics, it doesn’t rely on stimulants or sketchy science.

Hydration beyond the bottle

As a specialised tablet lubricant, Novalube USP/BP/EP addresses formulation and manufacturing challenges encountered with other lubricants. Its advantages include minimal impact on dissolution and disintegration rates, robustness to overlubrication, high API compatibility, and ease of manufacturing. These benefits make Novalube an ideal choice for tablet formulation, aligning with Nitika’s commitment to innovation and customer satisfaction.

For women, especially, the combination of creatine, BCAAs and electrolytes offers a practical and science-backed way to support strength, mental clarity and hormone balance. It’s not about extremes. It’s about improving the baseline.

NPL now offers two new options in this space – Creatine Hydra and Creatine Pro Lifestyle – both designed to support hydration and performance without the sugar or fluff. But the bigger story isn’t the brand. It’s the shift in how we think about supplements like this, not as tools for vanity, but as part of everyday health.

About the author:

Andy Moore holds a MSc in dietetics and is currently the research & development and quality control manager at NPL. She spearheads new product development for FMCG and pharmaceutical brands within the NPL group, including CAMs, sports supplements, and vitamins. Andy’s role involves sourcing ingredients, developing product concepts, and overseeing packaging in collaboration with the creative director.

For Gen Z, fragrance is more than a beauty product – it’s an extension of who they are

Scents of a generation: Gen Z’s influence on fragrance G

When it comes to fragrance, Gen Z isn’t playing by the rules. Loud, bold, and unapologetically expressive, this generation is turning the perfume world on its head. P&C Review Africa speaks to María Fructuoso, a perfumer at the Iberchem fragrance house, to better understand how the new generation is influencing fragrance creation.

en Z has grown up in an environment marked by technology, the internet, and mobile devices.

“This digital revolution has transformed not only the way they communicate or consume content, but also their sensory preferences, including fragrances,” María explains. Strong, intense fragrances with notes that make heads turn and let gazes linger have since become a favourite choice among the Gen Z crowd. Leather, amber, oud, and tobacco have seen a rise in popularity in recent years.

These scents may also be linked to the global increase in popularity of amber notes, which are typically associated with traditional Middle Eastern perfumery. These options allow Gen Z to change their scent as often as they change their mood or outfit – perfect for a generation constantly curating their identity online and offline.

Spicebomb Dark Leather by Viktor & Rolf is the 2024 update to the original Spicebomb, with fresh spicy notes as its main accord and a base of black leather and tobacco. This fragrance stands out as a key example of this trend.

Fragrance for every mood, every vibe

“This generation seeks fragrances for every mood,” says Maria. “Nostalgic aromas with sweet notes like marshmallow or cotton candy. Sunny, floral and fruity accords like coconut that transport you to a beach under the summer sun. Or vibrant offerings with tropical fruits like mango and passion fruit.”

It’s clear, Gen Z doesn’t want one signature scent. They want a whole mood board of olfactory options.

Fragrance collections that offer a thematic exploration with a wide range of options enable an opportunity to not only celebrate diversity but also to explore different facets of moods.

Iberchem’s latest Ikigai collection is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of the same name. Presented at in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam, the collection revolves around the idea of one’s ‘sense of being’. It merges the idea of fragrance layering with the holistic values of Ikigai, reflecting the year's leading trends in well-being, balance, and self-expression, while creating different combinations for every mood and every vibe.

The rise of gourmand and niche fragrances

Gen Z is also behind the surge in gourmand fragrances and scents that feel edible, nostalgic, and comfortingly familiar.

“One of my latest challenges was to develop a gourmand fragrance with pistachio and salted caramel,” says Maria. “The result was a delicate fragrance in balance which transports you and makes you feel unique. If I had to highlight a

star ingredient to captivate this audience, it would be gourmand vanilla. Versatile and enveloping, it’s the main ingredient in gourmand accords and blends perfectly with milky, fruity, and tropical notes.”

These bold, unexpected combinations resonate with Gen Z’s craving for individuality and emotional connection.

Maria adds: “At Iberchem, this means innovating beyond traditional perfumery and leaning into ingredient storytelling and personalisation. In addition, our Wavemotion® programme, used in the neuroscientific study of fragrance, allow us to control results and offer clients scientifically proven, moodenhancing scents.”

The final spritz

For Gen Z, fragrance is more than a beauty product – it’s an extension of who they are. As the perfume world evolves, fragrance houses like Iberchem are shaping new scent trends to help brands speak the language of this bold, expressive generation, one fragrance at a time.

Iberchem – iberchem.com

Phytosqualan powers A-Beauty hair innovation

Where cutting-edge science meets cultural heritage, innovation flourishes.

SOPHIM is pioneering this intersection with Phytosqualan, its olivederived squalane that is setting new standards in textured hair care.

For African women, embracing their natural hair texture – coily, tightly curled, or kinky – is more than a style choice. It is an affirmation of identity, autonomy and cultural pride. But alongside this cultural movement comes the demand for high-performing hair care solutions tailored to specific needs, like moisture retention, frizz control, cuticle health and tensile strength. According to Mintel, Africa knows fast growing hair care innovation. Launches of hair care products in South Africa grew by 47% in 2024 compared to 2019, and in Nigeria this growth was documented at more than 18%.1

Brands are also trying to meet A-Beauty consumer needs for more natural, dedicated, solution-oriented hair products. Between 2022 and 2023, plant-based or ‘botanical’ claims on hair products surged by 62%, while brightening claims increased by 41% and moisturising claims by 38%. 2

Technical validation

In a controlled ex vivo study, Phytosqualan was evaluated at 1% and 2% in rinse-off conditioner matrices. Three performance criteria were measured:

lower fibre friction, and enhance consumerperceived softness.

1. Frizz control on textured hair – Using highhumidity exposure (~85%), the frizz effect was quantified through image analysis (ratio of hair versus background pixels). Phytosqualan at 2% reduced frizz by 61% on Type II curls and 65% on Type IV coils (versus untreated controls). At 1%, it achieved a 55% to 60% improvement. This indicates that Phytosqualan effectively supports cuticle cohesion, fibre alignment and humidity resistance – all critical for maintaining textured hair styles and reducing breakage.

2. Combability (ease of detangling) –

In line with these developments in the market, Phytosqualan, SOPHIM’s premium olive squalane, is a must-have natural emollient for personal care formulations. With proven efficacy not only on skin but ex vivo on textured hair, it offers cosmetic chemists and formulators a natural, sustainable ingredient, which aligns with A-Beauty’s call for authentic, performance-driven cosmetics.

Measured via combing energy (percentage in energy reduction relative to placebo), 2% Phytosqualan decreased combing effort by 47% on wet hair and 52% on dry hair. Even at 1%, improvements of 11% (wet) and 15% (dry) were recorded. These significant reductions reflect the ability of Phytosqualan to smooth the hair surface,

Olive-derived squalane echoes the ancient origins of African beauty rituals

3. Gloss (surface reflectivity) – Gloss increase was measured using a glossmeter comparing treated fibres to the control. At 2%, gloss increased by 72%, marking a 1.7× improvement, while 1% Phytosqualan increased gloss by 24%, marking a 1.2× uplift in the parameter. Enhanced gloss reflects uniform cuticle morphology, indicating healthier, more visually radiant hair. It also resonates with A-Beauty’s focus on natural beauty amplified by performance.

Ideal for A-Beauty formulations

Heritage-inspired and in line with clean beauty needs, olive-derived squalane echoes the ancient origins of African beauty rituals and supports consumer expectations for natural yet scientific solutions.

It is also multifunctional. Using a single, natural ingredient, formulators gain frizz control, combability improvement, and glossy finish benefits. This reduces the need for complex systems while minimising the length of the INCI. Phytosqualan is optmised for textured hair. Data proven on Type II to Type IV strands ensures that anti-frizz claims are valid for textured hair, supporting formulator credibility and consumer trust.

Did you know?

SOPHIM is the world leader in the extraction of squalene from olive oil and the production of natural squalane. The manufacturer extracts squalene from food industry co-products, and by hydrogenating it, is able to produce its stable derivative: Squalane.

Furthermore, SOPHIM’s natural emollient is sustainable and traceable. This upcycled olive squalane is biodegradable and clean-conscious, aligning perfectly with modern regulatory expectations and the heritage of A-Beauty.

A-Beauty as an industry opportunity

African personal care isn’t just a regional success; it’s a blueprint for global innovation rooted in authenticity and heritage. For contract manufacturers, ingredient suppliers, and formulators, the continent offers fertile ground to create personal care systems tailored to textured hair narratives, while upholding values of heritage, sustainability and science.

Phytosqualan, distributed in Africa by CJP Chemicals, embodies a blend of heritage, sustainability and science. This fully natural, scientifically validated emollient supports empowerment in hair health in alignment with A-Beauty, and enables robust, sensory-rich, multifunctional formulations.

As African consumers transform hair health into cultural empowerment – and brands embrace A-Beauty as a global force – it becomes imperative for the ingredient supply chain to respond with rigorously validated, purpose-built actives.

Heritage-born, lab-tested and formulaready – Phytosqualan provides bridges the gap. Empower your next A-Beauty range with an ingredient that honours identity, maximises performance and supports a sustainable, global beauty narrative.

– www.sophim.com/en