Apparel Magazine | October 2025

A CITY IN MOTION P

aris Fashion Week once again demonstrated why it sits at the pinnacle of the global fashion landscape. The week unfolded across the city, transforming neighbourhoods, historic spaces, and unexpected architectural pockets into stages for creativity. Paris thrives on decentralisation. There was no headquarters, no designated fashion precinct. Instead, the city itself becomes the venue, creating a rhythm defined by movement, anticipation, and discovery.

From the Louvre to the library and everywhere in between, each location brought its own character and narrative. Inside each venue, the level of considered production was striking. Sound, lighting, spatial arrangement, and creative staging worked cohesively to elevate collections into multi-layered experiences. The commitment to atmosphere felt disciplined, artistic, and aligned with the city’s legacy of couture and craftsmanship.

A particularly effective format saw designers holding repeat presentations back-to-back, enabling more industry guests to attend without sacrificing intimacy. This also worked well, with many having wildly varying schedules for meetings and showings throughout the day. The execution felt generous and well-paced, encouraging genuine engagement rather than exclusivity for its own sake.

Despite the scale and prestige, the mood remained welcoming. Industry figures across all tiers appeared open, collaborative, and supportive, contributing to an environment that highlighted both excellence and collegiality.

Emerging designers were equally compelling. Many embraced unconventional venues and tighter formats, proving that ingenuity and identity hold just as much power as grandeur. We also saw a lot of this type of grit during our very own Āhua Underground Fashion Week and New Zealand Fashion Week.

New Zealand Fashion Week benefits from a central hub that offers coherence, efficiency, and an immediate sense of shared industry focus. Off-site shows brought vibrancy and proved that experimentation has a place in our schedule, yet the central venue remains a vital anchor for designers, media, and buyers.

The future likely lies in a hybrid that balances cohesion with creative freedom, rooted in our own identity and scale.

Paris projected confidence, craft, and a seamless integration of tradition with innovation. What it reinforced for us is that ambition and warmth can coexist, that inclusivity can sit alongside influence, and that the most compelling fashion platforms respect both heritage and evolution. New Zealand’s fashion community has these same qualities. With continued creativity and considered development, our runway conversation will continue to strengthen, informed by international inspiration yet distinctly our own.

CREATING VALUE FOR LOCAL BUSINESSES

New Zealand businesses will have a better shot at winning government contracts as a result of changes to government procurement rules.

Economic Growth Minister Nicola Willis said the new rules agreed to by Cabinet will take effect on the 1st of December. More than 900 submissions were received during consultation on the new rules earlier this year.

“Businesses shared that the lack of weighting for New Zealand’s interests in the evaluation criteria was holding them back. That’s why we’re introducing a new economic benefit to New Zealand test that will apply to every procurement to ensure we are creating value and jobs for Kiwis,” said Willis.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

KING KYLIE MAKES A COMEBACK AFTER 10 YEARS

Kylie Cosmetics has celebrated a decade of beauty innovation and cultural impact, marking the brand's evolution from a viral phenomenon to a global beauty empire.

Kylie Jenner launched Kylie Cosmetics in November 2015, inspired by her love of makeup. Her debut product, the Kylie Lip Kit, sold out in less than a minute and instantly disrupted the beauty industry with its direct-to-consumer model.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

KAREN WALKER X WCF

Karen Walker has again partnered with Wellington Chocolate Factory (WCF), this time producing pistachios dipped in Pacific origin chocolate.

Matcha and chocolate might be an unlikely pairing, but they’re the latest Karen Walker x Wellington Chocolate Factory creation, with pistachios dipped in Pacific origin chocolate and dusted in matcha to create the limited edition Matcha Milk Chocolate Pistachios.

The sixth collaboration between the designer and New Zealand’s original bean-to-bar craft chocolate maker is described as a rare treat, featuring cocoa ethically sourced from Vanuatu through WCF’s Grower Partner Programme. Walker’s Animal Kingdom print has also been reimagined as the release’s artwork.

READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

COSRX BECOMES FIRST K-BEAUTY BRAND TO SPONSOR PFW

Following its successful backstage debut earlier this year, global K-beauty leader COSRX returned to Paris Fashion Week. COSRX supported the backstage teams with its core skincare heroes and newly launched haircare innovations, ensuring models were runway-ready under the direction of world-renowned artists Thomas de Kluyver and Eugene Souleiman.

A QUEST TO HONOUR ALL BODIES

As the summer season begins, Liam has launched Liam Lingerie: an edit of wireless bras and knickers that you are proud to see the back of.

This has completed the Liam triangle, Ready Made, Lingerie, and Patterns and continued its quest to honour all bodies. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

Make life easier with one integrated software solution to help you manage all the moving parts of your retail business. Purpose-built for the fashion industry, Apparel helps you monitor, manage and find efficiencies to help you grow.

Grounded yet luxurious, brown emerged as one of the season’s defining statements. Designers turned to earthy tones to explore volume, texture, and restraint, proving that simplicity can speak volumes.

In Polo Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2026 collection, the brown suede coat and matching slacks in the image articulate a return to rustic elegance. The ensemble, in a rich tone akin to Mara 7-5039, opens Polo’s narrative of grounded refinement. The show began with a long brown suede coat layered over flowy trousers of the same shade, setting a tone of subdued luxury. The tactile weight of suede, combined with fluid drape and soft tailoring, ensures

GR O UN

this head-to-toe brown feels organic rather than forced. The consistency of hue lets the layering and movement do the talking, drawing attention to silhouette transitions and subtle shifts in light.

Elie Saab's Spring 2026 collection offered a contrasting silhouette in warm brown in the image, a hue resonant with Mara 3-815. Saab’s signature emphasis on drape, softness and romantic flow is reframed in earthy tones. In this look, a one-shouldered draped garment arcs elegantly across the body, sculpted by volume and fall rather than structural edges. In a season already praised for pared-down opulence, Saab shows that brown can carry forward the poetry of form without ornament. The result is

luminous, quiet, and richly tonal. Lacoste’s monochromatic brown look, aligned with Mara 3-3944, leaned into a modern utilitarian aesthetic. The image shows tailored outerwear over trousers, where the muted brown feels at once sporty and serious. The uniform brown gives strength to this crossover: the practical fabric, sharp lines, and tonal discipline make the outfit feel cohesive and intentional.

Magda Butrym’s SS26 was described as part atelier, part expressive silhouette, with “undone” elegance and sculptural shapes. The look shown here, in a deep brown that matches Mara 4-3927, evokes that sensibility. The layering is artful, the proportions subtly off-balance, and the texture mix. This tonal brown grounds

GR O UN

MARA 4-3927

the femininity in earthiness: rather than pale pastels, the look feels anchored, tactile and self-possessed.

Dice Kayek’s look in a soft brown verging on taupe is a perfect match for Mara 2-208. Ece Ege’s work often flirts with minimalism and architectural restraint, and this look suggests a lean, tonal approach to volume and shape.

MARA 2-208

Threads available from

The blouse, wide trousers, and clean lines allow the eye to rest on silhouette rather than detail. In a season where brown is more than a neutral, Dice Kayek shows how a muted monotone can amplify precision in tailoring.

Hermès did not disappoint with this look in a bold, deeper golden brown tone, in line with Mara 3-887. The image

MARA 3-887

presents a powerful mix of structure and ease: the shirt, trousers, and outer layer operate in the same tonal family. The brown is warm without being loud; the pieces speak through cut and proportion rather than embellishment. In that way, Hermès shows that headto-toe brown need not be safe and instead can be quietly assertive.

THE DREAM RUBETTE SUMMER BEGINS

You don’t always have to go far and wide to find what you’re looking for ~ sometimes the Dream Rubette summer is waiting right on your doorstep.

RUBY is ending the year in true style with the launch of its final and most anticipated collection, RUBY Resort 2025.

This season, the brand invited its community to rediscover the beauty close to home.

The RUBY Resort 2025 collection celebrates the best of what’s in the backyard. Fronted by Dream Rubette Riley Hemson, the campaign captured the effortless spirit of the long, sunsoaked days Kiwis wait for all year.

Boldness has defined the mood for the season. RUBY Creative Director Deanna Didovich drew inspiration

from the vibrant energy of the 1960s, bringing the collection to life through colour, texture, and playful contrasts.

Highlights include the tequila sunrise floral, which brings the heat in the Lou and Thea styles, and the debut of a new studded denim era that reimagines RUBY’s signature edge.

Collection favourites also return for their moment in the sun, with the Sasha reworked in linen and the Emma knit refreshed in collectable stripes, the only knits acceptable to wear through summer.

RUBY Resort 2025 Drop 1 launches in-store and online from Thursday, the 16th of October 2025.

LSKD SUPPORTS BREAST CANCER AWARENESS

Australasian activewear brand LSKD has launched its 2025 Breast Cancer Awareness Collection this October, coinciding with International Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

The limited-edition 28-piece range features pink-inspired designs, reimagining some of LSKD’s most loved fits with fresh styles, vibrant colourways, and statement patterns. This collection not only celebrates individuality and community but also supports a cause close to the brand’s heart.

As part of its ongoing five-year partnership with the National Breast Cancer Foundation (NBCF) in Australia, five percent of sales will go towards life-saving breast cancer research. To date, LSKD and its community have raised over AUD

249,000 for the cause.

“We’ve raised funds through several Breast Cancer collections over the years. Every piece not only supports this important cause, but also gives our community a way to start conversations and keep awareness alive as they wear it," said Jason Daniel, LSKD CEO and Founder.

The 2025 Breast Cancer Awareness Collection will be available in LSKD Ponsonby, Takapuna, Mount Maunganui, and Christchurch stores, as well as online. Each piece is designed to stand out while sparking conversations about a better future.

Finnish designer Sami Ruotsalainen has had a long career at Marimekko, where he currently works as a Senior Designer.

MINUTES WITH MARIMEKKO: DESIGNED FOR LONGEVITY

Sami Ruotsalainen Senior Designer Marimekko

In 2009, he was commissioned to design the Oiva tableware series, which has now become a Marimekko classic and the blank canvas for its prints and colours in the hard product category.

Ruotsalainen has also collaborated closely with other glassware designers and works with print designers to translate their designs into an array of products.

“It really is a collaborative process between designers, technicians, product developers and the amazingly skilled employees at our textile printing factory to bring the amazing vision of our talented print designers to life,” he said.

“A crucial part is to find a good balance between the original pattern and the product shape so that they complement each other.”

According to Ruotsalainen, prints have always played a central role in Marimekko collections, most commonly in the form of printed textiles but also in varied other expressions, such as 3D shapes or embroidery.

He said he found the happy contradiction between heritage and innovation in Marimekko’s designs to be quite interesting and loved the opportunity to demonstrate how timelessness can feel extremely relevant through distinct choices.

One of Ruotsalainen’s personal favourites was the Syksy glassware series, designed by Matti Klenell.

He mentioned that the glassware had a patterned surface inspired by Nordic autumn rain, from a gentle drizzle to powerful, drenching downpours, giving the glassware a tactile feel. It was also hand-engraved to create a distinctive surface.

“What is essential for us at Marimekko is that our designs can be enjoyed in everyday life, meaning that they are both beautiful and practical and can stand the test of time, both in terms of design but also longevity,” he said.

The Fall 2025 collection from Marimekko explores the ever-evolving nature of flowers and the shift from latesummer blossoms to early signs of fall.

The brand has continued to evolve shades from the previous collection, this time ripened by the sun and slowly shifting toward early signs of fall, where the fading beauty of florals in decay has become a central theme.

For Ruotsalainen, the Oiva 1.5 L bowl with Eija Hirvi’s Tiara print was a standout new way to present pattern on ceramics. The Marimekko team worked with Hirvi to compose the print around the bowl by attaching pieces of paper to its surface, resulting in a beautiful placement that reflects nature’s stubbornness.

Another favourite item from the Fall 2025 collection for Ruotsalainen was the wool blanket in burnt orange with Fujiwo Ishimoto’s Valkea Yö pattern.

Marimekko’s design philosophy has always been based on timeless, functional and high-quality products that give people long-lasting joy.

In addition to timeless aesthetics, the durability of materials has been an essential part of the equation.

Material choices play an important role from different perspectives, such as environmental and social, and Ruotsalainen was excited to test different options and learn more about how their characteristics could fit them into new collections.

Looking ahead, he hoped that owning a piece of Marimekko design would bring joy and optimism to people.

YANBIAN LISU TRADITION THROUGH A MODERN LENS

The Paris China Culture Centre was ablaze with lights as the 2025 China-France Fashion Week commenced.

The appearance of Yanbian Lisu attire in Paris was a strategic move by China to promote the global reach of its culture and establish a new paradigm of civilisational exchange.

Deep in the mountains of Sichuan, the Lisu people have woven their ethnic culture with craftsmanship passed down through generations, and the Paris show was a vivid demonstration of China's cultural heritage.

Lisu inheritors and independent designers collaborated, guided by an approach of cultural decoding and modern reconstruction.

The Lisu "sunflower" pattern evolved into dynamic prints on modern garments, while traditional pleated skirt cuts were incorporated into the

three-dimensional silhouettes of haute couture gowns.

At the same time, the handmade knife-mark patterns on sheepskin jackets created an aesthetic dialogue with the curves of formal wear, and the cross-stitch craftsmanship of the "Laixian" pouch underwent a creative transformation in tandem with modern industrial techniques.

The partnership with the Paris haute couture brand INCLOVER broke the traditional one-way output model, forming a positive interaction that integrated Sino-French creativity.

As more Chinese projects adopt innovative approaches to share their heritage with the world, it will usher in a new era through exchange and mutual learning with other civilisations.

STELLA MCCARTNEY SS26 |

CONSCIOUS UTILITY

Stella McCartney approached SS26 with her ongoing commitment to sustainable design, crafting the show around practicality and ease.

The collection explored workwear-inspired separates, tailoring in alternative fabrics, and pieces intended to move through the day with purpose. The aim was clear, though some choices leaned heavier on function than on style.

Shapes were straightforward. Wide trousers, boxy jackets and sleeveless tops anchored the line in workwear references. Dresses came loose, tied at the waist with cords or belts, while tailored jackets carried lighter shoulders than in earlier seasons. The cuts favoured room to move, but several looks lacked sharpness, leaving them short on definition.

Fabric took priority. Recycled denim, organic cotton and plant-based leathers gave weight to the utility theme. Sheer knits and silks appeared as contrast, though they were fewer and often overshadowed by denser textiles. When

the lighter materials took focus, the collection gained clarity.

Most of the colour story sat in earthy tones. Khaki, stone and chalk whites led the palette, with pastel pink and pale blue introduced in small sections. This restraint echoed the functional mood, but the limited shifts of colour risked monotony.

Accessories followed the practical line. Flat sandals, structured bags and narrow belts reinforced the theme. Hair and make-up were minimal, keeping the attention on fabric and cut.

The collection was clearest when utility met refinement, such as in the lighter tailored jackets and simple, easy dresses. Where it faltered was in weight and repetition, with too many heavy workwear pieces slowing the rhythm.

Stella McCartney SS26 stayed true to the brand’s values and delivered a clear statement on responsible fashion.

SCHIAPARELLI SS26 | CONCEPT OVER CONNECTION

At Paris Fashion Week, Schiaparelli returned with a show that placed spectacle above subtlety.

Daniel Roseberry pushed the house’s surreal language through sculptural shapes and bold surfaces, but the outcome often felt more like installation than fashion.

Silhouette relied on exaggeration. Shoulders were extended into broad frames, skirts were stiffened into wide cones, and bodices were carved with sharp openings. The looks carried visual strength but often lost ease of movement, creating outfits that looked commanding but felt rigid.

Fabric choices reinforced this. Heavy brocades, metallic finishes and thick satins produced impact but limited

flow. When lighter silks and cottons appeared they brought relief, though they were overshadowed by the denser constructions.

Colour followed a theatrical route. Gold and black dominated, joined by deep red for contrast. The palette created intensity, but it also underlined the costume quality of the line rather than offering versatility.

Accessories extended the drama. Large sculptural jewellery and ornate headpieces competed with the clothes for attention. Shoes were understated, but rarely enough to rebalance the overall image.

The strength of SS26 was its

consistency of vision. Roseberry is committed to Schiaparelli’s tradition of fantasy and provocation. The drawback was the gap between spectacle and wearability. The show provided memorable images but fewer garments that seemed destined for life beyond the runway.

In the end, Schiaparelli SS26 confirmed the house as a stage for visual theatre. Yet the reliance on heavy fabrics and rigid cuts created a distance between concept and clothes. The collection impressed as performance, but it left open the question of relevance in day to day wearability.

MAME KUROGOUCHI SS26 | TACTILE CALM BALANCES PRECISE CRAFT

Working through lightness and touch Mame

Kurogouchi’s SS26 collection used fabric technique as the quiet centre of each look.

It read as quiet and deliberate, with detail revealed at up close rather than through spectacle.

Shapes were slim and elongated. Dresses followed the line of the body, opening at the hem for movement. Jackets were cropped and neat, paired with narrow skirts or trousers that widened slightly at the ankle. When volume appeared it was contained in sleeves or panels, placed

for flow rather than display. The result was controlled without stiffness.

Fabric choice carried the narrative. Sheer knits, lace and fil coupé contrasted with cotton and matte silk.

Cutwork panels traced around seams or opened discreetly across the torso. The textiles often set the tone before the silhouette, giving the collection depth without excess detail.

The colour palette stayed muted. Ivory, stone and pale almond dominated, with deeper tones of ink and moss used sparingly. This allowed texture to be the focus. The effect was measured, with surface detail providing interest.

Accessories were functional and discreet. Low shoes, compact bags and minimal jewellery supported the clothes rather than competing with them. Hair

and make-up stayed natural, leaving space for the fabrics to register clearly. Where the collection slipped was in repetition. Several column dresses looked too similar, and lighter lace pieces felt fragile beside the stronger cotton and silk garments. When tailored separates returned to the line-up the balance was restored.

Overall, Mame Kurogouchi SS26 offered a wardrobe shaped by craft and texture. It let the textile lead the impression, producing clothes that moved easily while retaining structure. The strongest looks balanced delicacy with control, designed for repeated wear rather than occasion. It was a collection that asked to be seen closely, and one that trusted its fabrics to do the work.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SS26 | SHARP LINES, UNEASY BALANCE

Alexander McQueen’s SS26 collection focused on power. The tailoring was strong and the shapes were precise. However, the designs sometimes looked tight, and movement restricted.

Jackets set the direction. They pulled in at the waist and lifted at the shoulder. Skirts stayed slim and close, while trousers dropped straight with no break. Dresses used corset-style seams that held the torso firmly. The effect was clear and structured, but perhaps not easy to wear.

Fabric choices added to that feeling. Wool, leather and dense cotton were used again and again. These gave weight and strength but also made

the line heavy. Lighter silks and chiffon showed up in a few looks. They gave some relief, but they were brief and didn’t change the overall mood.

The colour story was simple. Black and red made up most of the collection. White and silver provided added contrast. The impact was strong, but the colour palette left little space for softer notes.

Accessories followed the same line. Tall boots, structured bags and bold jewellery added to the outline. Hair was

slicked back and make-up was minimal. The styling kept everything sharp and strict.

There is no doubt about the craft. The cuts were exact and the finish was clean. But without flow, the clothes felt harsh. They looked impressive on the runway but harder to imagine in the everyday.

The confidence in tailoring and cut was there, but the warmth was not. A touch of softness or more relaxed fabric choices could bring balance.

SAINT LAURENT SS26 | POWER DRESSING, PARIS EDITION

Working with the house’s tradition of sharp tailoring, Anthony Vaccarello’s SS26 collection shaped strength through simplicity.

The show kept lines severe and direct, while stripping away excess detail to leave silhouettes that felt commanding yet pared back.

Shapes were angular and long. Jackets stretched past the hip, shoulders were squared but not exaggerated, and trousers carried a narrow line. Dresses held close to the body before breaking slightly at the hem. The cuts projected control without relying on theatrics.

Fabric supported this stance. Wool and gabardine gave weight to the tailoring, while silk and fine jersey appeared in cleaner, softer moments. The contrast created rhythm, though

the heavier cloth dominated, giving some looks a stark edge.

Colour kept to a disciplined scheme. Black and deep navy formed the backbone, with olive and stone offering variation. A brief passage of metallic gold lifted the palette, but the overall tone stayed muted. The restraint emphasised silhouette rather than surface.

Accessories were minimal but firm. Slim belts and small box bags followed the line of the tailoring. Shoes came in pointed flats and low heels, sharp enough to hold the outline. Hair was slick and styling direct, leaving no distractions.

Where the collection excelled was in its discipline. The tailoring was precise, the message clear. Where it slipped was in repetition. A sequence of nearidentical jackets and trousers blurred together, and the limited palette risked monotony. The show’s impact relied more on consistency than on surprise.

Saint Laurent SS26 presented strength through reduction. Vaccarello built the collection around restraint and formality, producing clothes that were exact and unmistakably Saint Laurent in spirit. Yet the reliance on repetition left the line short on energy. It carried presence, but it could have offered more variation without losing focus.

KIMHEKIM SS26 | TRADITION RECUT

Kimhēkim’s SS26 show explored heritage tailoring reworked through a contemporary lens.

The collection treated classic garments — blazers, skirts, shirts — as starting points, reshaping them with unexpected cuts and altered proportions.

Shapes played with balance. Jackets opened wider at the chest, sleeves were extended beyond the hand, and skirts were split or fastened asymmetrically. Trousers sat high at the waist but widened through the leg, giving them a measured drama. Dresses were draped and tied, suggesting movement rather than strict outline. The effect was familiar clothing viewed from a new angle. Fabric choices mixed tradition with

novelty. Wool suiting and crisp cotton anchored the tailoring, while satin and sheer textiles broke up the line. Denim and leather appeared in sections, cutting into softer fabrics to add contrast. This blend created tension between uniform and individuality.

Colour shifted between discipline and expression. Black and white provided the backbone, with navy and grey filling the gaps. Flashes of bright pink and cobalt appeared in individual looks, used to punctuate keeping the palette controlled while leaving room for impact.

Accessories and styling held to the brand’s playful character. Bows and ties appeared in exaggerated scale,

sometimes taking over the garment. Shoes were pointed and minimal, giving stability to the altered shapes above. Hair was slicked back, keeping attention on cut and proportion.

What stood out was how Kimhēkim handled tradition. The collection showed respect for formal dress, but each piece carried a twist that altered the original form. It was not about discarding heritage, but about opening it up to interpretation.

A collection that began from the classic and pushed toward the inventive. It was clothing that carried memory yet spoke to the present day, delivering a line that was distinctive without excess.

JULIE KEGELS SS26 | TRANSFORMATIVE LAYERS

Julie Kegels made her spring-summer 2026 mark with a show that turned change into garment.

Rather than presenting static looks, she invited transformation—pieces that shift, fold, renew themselves mid-movement. It felt less like clothing and more like fluid motion.

Shapes often began familiar and then diverged. A dress might start soft and then unzip to reveal a contrasting layer, or a coat could wrap and remap itself by day’s end. These subtle shifts kept the line in flux without losing coherence. The collection matched concept with wearability.

Fabrics embraced duality. Sheer chiffons and organzas floated alongside

heavier cottons, recycled textiles and knits. Panels and inserts guided the eye across seams. The interplay between transparent materials and solidity lent depth to even the simplest silhouette. Colour held a quiet strength. Creams, soft greys and muted tones set the foundation. Then Kegels introduced flashes of deep burgundy, teal or metallic accents. The contrasts were small but precise, giving energy without shouting.

Accessories played out the transformation idea. Bags that open into new shapes, straps that double as belts, and footwear with adjustable elements punctuated the line. Styling stayed

composed, letting the architecture of the garments reveal themselves.

What stood out was how organically the concept and clothes aligned. Kegels didn’t force novelty; she let garments speak through change. The show suggested that fashion’s story can happen through motion rather than static image.

This showing offered a wardrobe of quiet surprises. It balanced utility and poetry, treating the everyday as a space for subtle shift. The collection showed a designer confident in idea and form, not one chasing spectacle but one weaving thought through fabric and cut.

VAUTRAIT SS26 | BOTH GARMENT AND SCULPTURE

Vautrait presented its SS26 collection in Paris with a clear focus on tailoring. The show placed cut and construction at the centre, offering garments that read almost as sculpture while remaining grounded in wearability.

Shapes carried precision. Jackets sat close at the shoulders and extended into long, narrow lines. Coats wrapped the body with folds that echoed drapery, while trousers held their structure with sharp pleats. Dresses followed the same logic, shaped to move around the body with deliberate control. Each piece looked composed, as if designed from a single stroke.

Fabric choices underlined this architectural mood. Compact wool, polished cotton and fine suiting blends dominated. Satin and lightweight silks were introduced sparingly to bring softness, usually as linings or hidden details. The focus stayed on surfaces that held their shape.

Colour was restrained. Black and charcoal provided the base, broken occasionally by stone and muted blues. This pared-back palette allowed the construction to remain in focus.

Metallic fastenings and subtle stitching details provided the only decoration.

Accessories echoed the clarity of the clothes. Belts drew attention to the waist, bags were boxy and minimal, and footwear was streamlined. Hair was kept neat, make-up understated, all reinforcing the pared-back tone of the collection.

What stood out in SS26 was the discipline of the line. Vautrait used tailoring as its language, with no excess. The collection showed how structure can define elegance without the need for overt gesture.

Vautrait SS26 delivered a collection that placed form at the centre. A wardrobe built from exact proportions and thoughtful construction, proving that tailoring can act as both garment and sculpture. The result felt rigorous yet wearable, clear in direction and confident in execution.

MARQUES’ ALMEIDA SS26 | RAW DENIM, SOFT LAYERS

Marques’ Almeida opened its SS26 collection with a clear signal that denim remains central to the brand’s identity.

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida returned to their signature raw edges and unfinished hems, but the mood was lighter and more adaptable than in previous seasons.

Silhouette favoured relaxed shapes. Wide-leg jeans sat low on the hip, long skirts brushed the floor, and oversized jackets gave the collection its anchor. These heavier pieces were balanced by fluid dresses in sheer fabrics, layered simply over slips or trousers. The tension between weight and lightness kept the line moving.

Fabric choices underscored this balance. Denim dominated, frayed and washed to look lived-in, while chiffon and silk added contrast. Cotton poplin

brought sharpness to shirts, often cut long and left untucked. The interplay between rough and refined gave the collection depth without overcomplication.

Colour worked in blocks. Indigo, black and washed-out blue defined the denim, while dresses arrived in soft pastels and muted brights. Yellow, pink and green punctuated the darker base, creating moments of lift within the show. The palette echoed the designers’ interest in both the raw and the romantic.

Accessories kept close to the streetwear spirit. Heavy boots, wide belts and oversized bags reinforced the casual character of the denim, while delicate jewellery softened the layered dresses.

Styling made clear that the collection was designed to be worn with ease. What stood out was how the designers handled their own hallmarks. Marques’ Almeida is known for raw, deconstructed shapes, yet SS26 showed that those elements can be softened and integrated into a wardrobe that feels contemporary. The unfinished edges read less as rebellion and more as identity.

Marques’ Almeida SS26 confirmed a brand still tied to denim but evolving how it presents it. The collection balanced toughness with softness, weight with transparency, and rough texture with fluid shape. It was recognisably theirs, yet it pointed toward a broader idea of wearability.

BALMAIN SS26 | BOLD SHAPE, CLEAR DIRECTION

Balmain’s SS26 show in Paris centred on structure and sculptural detail, keeping Olivier Rousteing’s signature confidence while stripping back some of the excess.

The result was a collection that carried strength without noise, shaped by precise tailoring and a disciplined palette.

Silhouette was sharp. Shoulders were lifted and sculpted, waists were pinched in, and skirts extended in clean lines. The architectural shapes that define Balmain remained, but they were handled with more restraint than in recent seasons. The focus was on form, with garments built to frame the body clearly and directly.

Fabric choices underlined this approach. Compact wools and technical blends gave jackets their structure, while silks and satins softened the dresses. Leather pieces added contrast, bringing weight and texture to the line. The materials were chosen for impact but used sparingly, keeping attention on cut rather than surface decoration.

Colour was kept disciplined. Black, white and beige formed the base, punctuated by single looks in red or metallic gold. This limited palette

allowed the collection’s sculptural shapes to stand out without distraction. Print appeared rarely, used more as accent than as focus.

Accessories supported the line but did not dominate it. Belts emphasised the waist, bags were clean and angular, and shoes followed the architectural mood, often with a square toe or geometric heel. Styling reinforced the clarity of the silhouette.

What stood out in SS26 was the balance between signature drama and modern restraint. The show delivered the strong shapes that have become synonymous with Balmain, but tempered them with precision and focus. The result felt wearable and considered, not just spectacle for the runway.

Balmain SS26 suggested a house still confident in its bold style but willing to refine. It showed how sharp tailoring and sculptural design can evolve into a wardrobe that is impactful without being excessive. Rousteing proved that presence in silhouette does not need decoration to hold attention.

WEINSANTO SS26 | LIGHT-HEARTED EDGE, SHARPER FOCUS

Weinsanto opened Paris Fashion Week with a collection that showed its playful side while bringing more control to the line.

Victor Weinsanto’s SS26 designs carried the energy he is known for, but this season the shapes were clearer and the finish more grounded.

Silhouette mixed theatre with everyday function. Dresses had rounded shoulders and lifted hems, yet many were cut in cottons and jerseys that moved easily. Corset tops were set against wide trousers, creating contrast without feeling overdone. The result was variety with a practical undertone.

Fabrics balanced the dramatic with the wearable. Sheer tulle and mesh gave light volume, while denim and crisp shirting added structure. This pairing kept the collection in touch with daily use, ensuring the more experimental looks did not drift into costume.

Colour kept the mood upbeat. Black anchored the line, but flashes of bright green, pink and purple added energy. Prints came in abstract shapes, used

sparingly to highlight rather than dominate. The effect was lively but coherent.

Accessories followed the same principle. Platforms and boots gave support to the fuller silhouettes, while bags and belts stayed plain. Hair and make-up offered creative touches but remained in service of the clothing.

The strength of SS26 was its sense of play handled with restraint. Weinsanto showed that sculptural ideas can sit within a wardrobe if the fabrics and styling are handled carefully. The show felt less about staging spectacle and more about how design character can live in the everyday.

The collection confirmed a designer sharpening his voice. Weinsanto SS26 kept the brand’s humour and eccentricity but presented it in a way that feels ready to wear outside the show space. It was distinctive, practical in places, and still entirely his own.

TOM FORD SS26 | SLEEK EVENING, RELAXED DAY

Tom Ford’s SS26 show in Paris balanced the sharp glamour the brand is known for with a more relaxed approach to daytime dressing.

The collection felt pared back compared to past seasons, with less emphasis on overt luxury and more focus on clean lines and easy wear.

Silhouettes carried the Ford signature of sleek tailoring and body-conscious cuts, but softened around the edges. Jackets were lean but not stiff, trousers sat slightly looser on the hip, and dresses draped rather than clung. The

result gave the collection a fluid rhythm that could move from office to evening without losing identity.

Fabrics were kept direct and uncomplicated. Satin, silk and lightweight wool made up much of the line, chosen to catch light and hold shape. Sheer elements appeared sparingly, giving flashes of skin but never taking over. The finish stayed polished, but not overly polished, which kept the clothes versatile.

The colour story was disciplined. Black and white formed the base, supported by navy and muted neutrals. Metallic tones were used as highlights, appearing in a single coat or shirt rather than across full looks. This restraint kept the collection grounded, letting the cut and proportion do the talking.

Accessories echoed the shift in mood. Sunglasses and bags were kept clean, jewellery was minimal, and shoes ranged from pointed pumps to sandals that sat flat against the foot. Each choice supported the collection’s more understated direction.

What stood out was how wearable it all felt. Tom Ford has often veered into spectacle, but SS26 showed a step towards clothes that work across more settings. The sharpness was still there, but tempered.

Taken together, the collection showed Ford’s language of sleek tailoring and evening glamour, updated for a lifestyle where polish and comfort meet. SS26 put forward pieces that felt recognisably Tom Ford, but with less display and more function.

CASABLANCA SS26 | SPORT AND ROMANCE IN BALANCE

Casablanca showed its SS26 collection in Paris with a lineup that played to the brand’s core strength, the meeting point of leisurewear and elegance.

Charaf Tajer built on the house identity by blending sportswear shapes with fabrics and colours that carried a softer, more romantic edge. Silhouette mixed tailored ease with athletic references. Boxy jackets sat alongside track-inspired trousers, while silk shirts were left open over vests. Dresses and skirts softened the mood, cut with movement that contrasted with sharper jackets and fitted tops.

The effect was relaxed but polished, never tipping into casual.

Fabrics carried the narrative further. Lightweight silks and satin were combined with cottons and jerseys, keeping the collection balanced between formality and informality. Prints appeared in pastel gradients and abstract patterns, giving lift to the clean tailoring. When solids were used, they held the shape firmly, grounding the more playful surfaces.

The palette was bright but controlled. Soft oranges, greens and lilacs played against neutrals of white and navy. This kept the mood upbeat while avoiding excess. Colours felt optimistic but still wearable, fitting with the brand’s summer aesthetic.

Accessories reinforced the dual focus on sport and style. Trainers and sandals were paired with silk suiting, while

lightweight scarves and statement sunglasses added a touch of travel-ready ease. The styling suggested a wardrobe that can move between resort and city without needing to change tone.

What stood out in SS26 was the balance between energy and refinement. Casablanca has always played with leisure references, but here the tailoring and fabric choices gave the collection more depth. It felt less about holiday escape and more about clothes that can be worn every day while still carrying that relaxed attitude.

The takeaway from SS26 was Bahnsen adjusting her own vocabulary. She kept the signature volume and texture but made them lighter, softer and more adaptable. The collection pointed toward blending her romantic identity with practicality, creating clothes that felt distinctive yet workable in daily life.

TOM FORD SS26 | SLEEK EVENING, RELAXED DAY

Chanel’s SS26 show offered a fresh reading of the house’s signature style. Matthieu Blazy’s first collection focused on structure and texture, while keeping the mood light and easy to wear.

The silhouettes stayed close to Chanel’s foundations. Skirt suits, cropped jackets and pencil skirts formed the base, but the cuts were softer than usual. Jackets ended neatly at the waist, skirts carried a little movement, and tailoring gave shape without looking stiff. Fabrics were central to the shift. Tweeds were woven more lightly than in winter collections, paired with silks, linens and crisp cottons. This contrast gave the collection air and movement, taking away any sense of weight. Some looks almost floated, a different way of handling material that is normally dense. The colour palette was controlled and clear. Creams, ivories and pastels led the way, with navy, black and muted jewel shades providing definition. Nothing jarred or clashed. The tones supported the shapes and textures rather than competing with them. Accessories kept the balance. Quilted

handbags were shown in smaller proportions, chain details were slim, and fastenings were subtle. Shoes focused on wearability, from ballet flats to low block heels. Each piece underlined the clothing rather than pulling attention away from it. This collection was not about spectacle. It was about showing how a signature style can be adjusted without losing identity. The looks could move through the day with ease, practical yet elegant. They felt considered, not forced.

As a statement, SS26 at Chanel read as assured in its restraint. It suggested that even a house with such an established identity can evolve gently, shifting emphasis while staying rooted in what makes it recognisable. The collection came across as a first step from Blazy, measured in tone but clear in intent, setting a path that may sharpen with time.

LOUIS VUITTON SS26 | EASE AT HOME, ELEGANCE IN PUBLIC

Set inside the Louvre’s former summer apartments of Anne of Austria, Nicolas Ghesquière framed SS26 as a study in private space turned outward.

The collection spoke to dressing at home with refinement, offering comfort built into tailoring and daywear.

Shapes were relaxed but deliberate. Robe-like coats tied at the waist, cardigans carried deep pockets, and wide bermudas paired with slipperstyle shoes set a domestic mood. Silhouette was softened, yet held in

check by sharper jackets and neat waists that kept the line from drifting.

Fabric grounded the story. Plush knits, silks and linens offered lightness, while compact wool gave structure where needed. The mix suggested ease without sloppiness. In some looks, the heavier cloth undercut the softness, tipping into severity where a lighter hand might have worked better.

Colour stayed quiet. Cream, ivory and pastel tones led, with navy and black providing definition. A few jewel shades broke the calm but never overpowered it. The palette allowed the fabric textures to stand out, though the restraint risked sameness across the show.

Accessories were practical and understated. Scaled-down bags, slim belts and flat shoes reinforced the idea

of movement between home and public space. Styling followed suit, neat but unforced.

The collection worked best when softness and precision sat side by side, as in the belted coats over silk trousers. Where it faltered was in the reliance on repetition: several looks circled the same proportions without enough shift to surprise.

Taken together, Louis Vuitton SS26 explored the line between domestic ease and outward polish. Ghesquière offered a wardrobe that felt wearable and rooted in the house’s identity, though the quiet tone sometimes shaded into predictability. The show set out a clear direction, but a wider play with texture and cut might have added more depth.

DIOR SS26 | A NEW SOFTLY WRITTEN CHAPTER

For SS26, Dior focused on refinement without excess. Maria Grazia Chiuri pared the collection back to clear shapes and clean layering, aiming for elegance through control rather than decoration. The result carried assurance, though it sometimes felt too cautious to fully resonate.

Shapes were neat and contained. Jackets cut close at the shoulder sat over slim skirts, while dresses were formed from panels that wrapped the body with measured precision. Trousers were narrow and straight, paired with shirts left open at the collar. The silhouettes held balance, but some repeated without fresh variation.

Fabric highlighted contrast between strength and softness. Tailoring relied on wool and cotton, given crisp finish, while chiffon and silk overlays brought transparency. At times the lighter fabrics enriched the line, at others they seemed like afterthoughts against the sharper cuts. The dialogue between hard and soft was present, but uneven. Colour followed a muted path. Greys, creams and black carried the majority, with dusty rose and olive appearing in short passages. The subdued palette suited the intention of restraint, though

it left the collection at risk of blending together.

Accessories echoed the discipline. Belts cinched waists cleanly, bags were compact, and shoes low-heeled or flat. Styling was minimal, reinforcing the controlled atmosphere of the show.

The collection’s strength was in its clarity. Dior presented a wardrobe that stood on proportion and finish rather than surface effect. Its weakness lay in a lack of spark. By holding so closely to restraint, SS26 risked losing the sense of discovery that can make pared-back clothes compelling.

Seen in full, Dior SS26 showed confidence in restraint and a refusal to overstate. It offered calm, considered clothes, but the same control that shaped the line also limited its reach. The collection suggested assurance, though it might have benefitted from moments of risk to spark more interest.

HODAKOVA SS26 | EVERYDAY PIECES, ALTERED LINES

Hodakova’s SS26 collection in Paris continued Louise Xin’s exploration of reworking the familiar.

The show focused on everyday garments such as suits, shirts and jeans, but shifted them with unusual construction and subtle changes of proportion. The result was clothing that felt both recognisable and slightly off-centre.

Shape was skewed by intention. Blazers were cut longer, trousers carried folds that twisted down the leg, and shirts opened in unexpected places. Dresses appeared with panels that curved around the body rather than falling straight. These adjustments

suggested movement and drew the eye to the shift.

Fabric choices reinforced the balance of known and new. Traditional tailoring cloths, denim and cotton shirting formed the base, while recycled materials and off-cuts were stitched into panels. Leather also appeared in straps and inserts, interrupting softer fabrics with structure. The combination suggested a wardrobe built from fragments but made whole by design.

Colour stayed restrained. Black, white and muted neutrals carried most of the line, with flashes of red and metallic silver breaking through. The limited colour range kept focus on construction rather than ornament.

Accessories and styling supported the reworked theme. Belts were wrapped multiple times, sometimes across

the body, while shoes were sturdy and simple. Hair and make-up stayed neutral, leaving space for the altered clothing lines to take focus.

What stood out in SS26 was the way Hodakova made the ordinary feel unfamiliar without pushing into spectacle. The pieces began from shapes everyone knows, but their twists and alterations created a quiet tension. It was not about radical reinvention, but about tilting perspective just enough to change the reading.

Overall, Hodakova SS26 presented a collection rooted in everyday garments but made distinctive through cut, construction and thoughtful use of material. It was a wardrobe that balanced usefulness with invention, showing that everyday styles can hold surprises.

essential steps retailers should take for better product visibility

WHY PRODUCT VISIBILITY MATTERS MORE THAN EVER

The easier it is for customers to find and engage with your products, the stronger your competitive advantage.

Product visibility isn’t just about what’s on the shelf or online; it’s about how clearly your teams can see performance, demand, and opportunity across the entire product lifecycle.

When retailers can’t see what’s selling, why it’s selling, or how it stacks up against the market, they risk missing moments that matter.

Today, leading retailers are turning to AI-powered retail intelligence to bring full transparency to product performance, gaining access to more data and insights that drive increased relevance and personalization.

Let’s delve into five steps all retailers should take to enhance product visibility strategies with the help of retail intelligence.

STEP 1: SEGMENT AND PERSONALIZE WITH CONNECTED DATA

Understanding your target audience is the foundation of great merchandising. With the right intelligence platform, retailers can connect internal performance data with customer behavior and market insights to build more precise customer segments. This connected data helps you personalize product recommendations by segment, optimize visibility across channels, and strengthen conversions — all while ensuring your products align with evolving shopper intent.

STEP 2: USE PREDICTIVE ANALYTICS FOR SMARTER INVENTORY DECISIONS

Once you know what each customer segment values, it’s crucial to ensure those products are available and discoverable. Nothing frustrates customers more than finding their desired product out of stock.

To prevent this disappointment, you can employ predictive analytics to forecast demand and help automate replenishment, so popular products stay in stock and slower-moving ones can be managed proactively.

Automatically surface insights on where to introduce, repeat, reduce, or highlight products based on live performance and market conditions. With proactive insights, you can take action before issues impact sellthrough.

By ensuring that popular and highdemand products are consistently in stock and prominently featured on your website, you can boost product visibility and capitalize on customer interest.

STEP 3: OPTIMIZE PRODUCT NAMING AND CATEGORIZATION FOR DISCOVERABILITY

Simply having a product in stock isn’t enough; customers need to be able to find it – easily.

By analyzing search trends, keyword data, and competitive product naming in a single platform, retailers can ensure their naming conventions align with how customers actually search and shop.

This alignment not only improves on-site discoverability but also ensures your digital experience mirrors realworld demand.

STEP 4: MAKE DATA-DRIVEN PRICING AND PROMOTION DECISIONS

Staying competitive requires visibility into how your prices and promotions stack up in real time.

Analyze historical and live competitor activity to set prices dynamically and launch more effective promotions with retail intelligence.

For example, view current and historical homepages, category landing pages, and emails from players in the market, or utilize heatmap analysis to see which days had the highest mentions of specific keywords and when retailers in the space started communicating trends, allowing you to improve your own promotions.

Visual merchandising and email analysis features show how and when key trends are communicated across the market so you can act on them at the right moment. The result: stronger visibility, optimized margins, and faster reactions to customer demand.

STEP 5: CONTINUALLY MONITOR, MEASURE, AND ADAPT

Retail is a dynamic field, and what works today might not work tomorrow. Customer behavior and market dynamics change constantly — so your strategies should, too.

With the right retail intelligence solution, teams gain a personalized dashboard with real-time insights that surfaces Opportunities to adjust assortments, pricing, or promotions.

By continually monitoring what’s working (and what’s not), retailers can make confident, data-backed decisions that keep their products visible and relevant every day.

CONCLUSION

Improving product visibility is an ongoing process that requires a deep understanding of your customers, the market, and the evolving retail landscape.

Making effective changes starts with true visibility into your data. With EDITED, you can see your product performance clearly — in real time — and connect the dots between what’s happening inside your business and across the market.

Our AI-driven platform doesn’t just show you what’s happening; it tells you where to act next, helping you create more personalized strategies and increase your overall visibility.