Food Lifestyle Magazine Winter 2025

luxury awa s When the Sea Whispers,

A coastal resort where every sense is restored.

Every element at St Michaels Resort is designed to restore. Savour Cornish flavours, unwind in our award-winning spa, swim just steps from the coast, and find calm among subtropical gardens.

Discover the quiet art of feeling good again

It's been a gorgeous slide into winter. It started with the Food Lifestyle Awards in September, which was a truly lovely experience and an assembly of some of the most innovative and interesting businesses in the South West. The buzz and collaborative atmosphere conjured by gathering that collection of creative people made for a very memorable evening. We've got tonnes of great pictures from the night so you can see what went down (turn to page 24).

I was also delighted to interview Romy Gill and Kate Humble about their cookbooks at the Appledore Book Festival in September. Fabulous interviewees, both: authentic, entertaining and inspirational. There was one particularly moving moment when a tearful Kate described her frustration with the state of the world and the solace she finds in nature. There wasn't a dry eye in the tent.

A week or two later, I took a group of friends to review one of the most fabulous large holiday homes in north Cornwall. If you've got a big birthday or special event coming up, you'll want to know all about The Beach House in Mawgan Porth. Turn to page 58 for all the details.

My talented editorial colleagues have also had some incredible experiences over the last few weeks – all in the pursuit of finding the best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West. Throughout this issue, you'll discover loads of top notch recommendations to help you identify the highest quality, independent and ethical businesses worthy of your support.

Wishing you a merry Christmas and a joyful new year. See you in the spring.

Jo Rees Editorial director and founder Salt Media

 jo_rees browser food mag.co.uk

 foodlifestylesw Facebook‑F foodlifestylesw

Editorial Bethan Andrews, Alice Humphrys, Wiktoria Jazwinska, Abi Manning, Melissa Morris, Elise Anna Morton, Jane Rakison, Jo Rees, Rosanna Rothery, Selena Young

Design Christopher Mulholland Publishing Charlotte Cummins, Tamsin Powell Accounts Richard Bailey

Commercial/advertising Nick Cooper, Claire Fegan, Jeni Smith ‑ 01271 859182

Publisher Salt Media – ideas@saltmedia.co.uk, 01271 859299, saltmedia.co.uk

Cover image Cosy winter escape at Cove Valley. Image: Evie Johnstone. See page 54

browser food mag.co.uk  foodlifestylesw Facebook‑F foodlifestylesw

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports South West independent businesses. Copyright The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. Disclaimer We choose the businesses included in Food Lifestyle features based on editorial integrity. Sometimes, inclusions will be handpicked from clients with whom we have a commercial relationship. While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food Lifestyle cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. Print We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent‑free inks on FSC‑certified

This issue

FEATURES

8. The gift edit

Festive finds for your nearest and dearest.

18. Tastemakers: Emily Harmon

The MD of The Collective at Woolsery on her most ambitious role yet.

24. Food Lifestyle Awards 2025

Meet your winners and finalists.

34. The fermenter: the art of patience

The alchemy of turning salt, cider and estate raised meats into extraordinary charcuterie.

EATING OUT

37. Restaurant reviews

We visit Crave, Àclèaf, Blue Ball Inn and Petty Fours.

46. Trencherman's hot picks

Highlights from the latest edition of the dining guide.

TRAVEL

52. Cool places to stay

Fabulous places to escape to this winter.

58. Tried and tested: The Beach House

A stunning getaway spot in ‛Hollywood‑on‑Sea’.

62. Tried and tested: Pedn Olva

Dip your toe in the water at the newly transformed seaside inn.

66. City guide: Exeter

The cheat sheet on the Devon capital's coolest finds.

72. The full works: Budock Vean Hotel and Spa

A sanctuary of tranquility on the Helford River.

WEEKEND COOKING

78. Chocolate source

Exploding Bakery founder Oliver Coysh on sourcing high grade cocoa.

82. Ultimate chocolate fudge cake

A nostalgic cake dressed up for modern tastebuds.

84. Chocolate marquise

The Greenbank Hotel's recipe for a wicked dinner party dessert.

DRINKS

88. Jane Rakison's drinks diary

Our drinks expert reveals joyful finds for Christmas sipping.

MORE

96. Directory

98. Stockists

94. Win!

Win a two course Sunday lunch for four at Harbour House Bristol, with a bottle of Britz and a selection of nibbles.

SIMMER DOWN

Seasoned sauna goers will love a sizzling ritual of salt inhalations and thermal leaf whisking in Dorset.

BOTANICAL BENEFITS

The Christmas countdown just got a bougie upgrade with this bundle of bath and body products.

Communal/private sessions and guided rituals £15–£160 thesaltwatersauna.com TICKLED PINK

This delicate Cornish fizz is a star pairing for smoked salmon. Knightor Classic Cuvée Rosé £37 knightor.com

COASTAL COOKERY

Hands on cooking classes, from fermentation sessions to Michelin level classes.

HOT STUFF

Sweet and spicy nectar to elevate pizzas, halloumi and stir fries.

FERMENTED FARE

A journey into international style ferments for sauerkraut addicts and the kimchi curious.

Ferment Intro Pack £38.50 cultjar.co.uk

SURE CURE

Gift a bundle of banging British charcuterie for fuss free feasting.

Raw British Hot Honey £8.50

blackbeehoney.com

Festive Cured Meat Letterbox £35 therealcure.co.uk

R ING A DING DING

Santa baby, forgot to mention one little thing ... this sunburst band with stunning bicolour sapphire (bottom).

Sunburst Bombe Blue Yellow Sapphire Ring £2,155 cliftonrocks.co.uk

CONSCIOUSLY CRAFTED KNITWEAR

British knitwear of Cornish provenance, crafted to last.

British wool vest in Lunar Grey £135

carnwear.uk

COURSES FOR KEEN COOKS

Masterclasses in macarons, sushi and more.

Gift vouchers from £25 devoncookeryschool.com

MUD, MASSAGE AND MORE

Gift a day of deep relaxation at Boringdon Hall in Devon. Champagne afternoon tea, use of Gaia Spa facilities, deep relaxation room and a stress relieving treatment are all included. Loved one not a spa addict? Boringdon also offers gift vouchers galore for other delicious experiences – from Champagne afternoon teas to Michelin starred dining.

boringdonhall.co.uk

SUPERIOR SIPPING

Elevate their morning caffeine ritual with a gorgeously tactile mug.

Espresso Wide Mug – Speckled £22 finnertyceramics.com

BATH BEER

Thirst crushing beers from Bath's Electric Bear. Choose Pale, Mixed or Core.

6 Can Gift Set £25 electricbearbrewing.com

CULINARY KUDOS

CLEVER KIMONOS

Unisex workwear kimonos with nifty features like magnetic strips and pull up pencil pockets.

Garden, studio and house kimonos From £150 kimonomyhouse.co.uk

Home cooks can hone their street food, fish and Argentinian grill skills at this Truro cookery school.

Gift vouchers £5–£200 philleighway.co.uk

BUOYED UP

Super sippable canned cocktails, crafted by the coast.

DISCERNING DINER'S BIBLE

The new Trencherman's Guide reveals the South West's hottest restaurants.

Trencherman's Guide £12.99 trenchermans-guide.com

COFFE E SNOB'S BIBLES

Find the best places to drink and buy speciality coffee in the UK. Guides available for different areas.

Indy Coffee Guides From £12.99

indycoffee.guide

NATURE-LED LOTION

A zingy duo with serious eco creds for the environmentally conscious.

Hand Duo £34

land-and-water.co.uk

RE-ENERGISE

For those who need to press pause and sink into a state of peace by the sea.

Spa voucher from £25 falmouthhotel.co.uk

Stunning tables and benches made using native West Country hardwoods.

TEIG N VALLEY TIPPLE

Seeking a sparkling stocking filler? This South West find fizzes with flavour.

Huxbear Classic Sparkling 2018 £25 huxbear.co.uk

‘There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to ... afternoon tea,’ said Henry James. AG AINST THE GRAIN

TAS TE OF TRADITION

Hamper heaven

Elevate the art of gifting with a unique and sustainable hamper from Darts Farm

Nothing says ‛curated contemporary gift’ like a sophisticated hamper from Britain's best farm shop. The team at Darts Farm have made gifting easier and more enjoyable this Christmas, with creative selections of artisan goodies from small, independent producers. They're perfect for foodies and sustainably minded folk. We asked the Darts team to share a snapshot of their heavenly haul. Tempted? You will be.

Festive Hamper

This flagship Christmas hamper is a real crowd pleaser. It's packed with artisan festive classics from small, independent producers such as Georgie Porgie's iconic Christmas Pudding which comes in three sizes – so you can choose according to how much you love the recipient!

Fizz, Cheese & Charcuterie Hamper

This hamper is great for cosy date nights at home and festive hosting. Feast on rich and unctuous Tunworth "camembert" baked in the oven, quality charcuterie and bright, vivacious English fizz from Darts' own vineyard.

Ultimate Chocolate Lover's Hamper

Darts Farms' in house chocolatiers craft their chocolate from bean to bar. This hamper features the ultimate line up of fascinating single origin bars, handmade praline truffles and festive candied oranges. It's a chocolate lover's dream.

Italian Artisans Festive Hamper

Slow food fans will appreciate this Italian hamper filled with delicacies from small scale producers. Highlights include handmade panettone, unique chocolate coated breadsticks and the best extra virgin olive oil for pimping up all manner of Christmas dishes.

Artisan Grazing Hamper

Cross nibbles off the party to do list with this ultimate Christmas party selection. Crammed with goodies from small batch, independent producers, it features olives, chilli puffs, grissini, artisan crisps, chilli jam, award winning Cornish sea salt savoury thins and further party pleasers.• dartsfarm.co.uk

Emily TASTEMAKER Harmon

From training staff at The White House to running a section in a Michelin starred kitchen, the MD of The Collective at Woolsery tells Jane Rakison about her most ambitious role yet

Even at the age of ten, Emily Harmon had goals. ‘In my dreams, my ideal life would involve running a little bed and breakfast in England.’ For someone whose childhood was spent in a farmhouse just outside San Jose, northern California, the odds of Emily realising this dream seemed pretty unlikely. But anyone who knows Emily now will know she's the kind of person who makes things happen.

Since arriving in Devon almost ten years ago, she has taken on the hospitality role to end all hospitality roles: to develop, curate and manage The Collective at Woolsery from its inception as a simple pub renovation to its current status as an ecosystem of lifestyle businesses in the rural village of Woolsery (also known as Woolfardisworthy) in north Devon.

The Collective comprises The Farmers Arms pub, a fish and chip shop, a village shop and Post Office. There's also a manor house (still under construction), Michelin Key rated cottages, suites and rooms, and Birch Farm, the 150 acre organic farm that supplies meat and produce to its sibling businesses.

The multifaceted project was founded by Xochi and Michael Birch, US based tech entrepreneurs who sold their social networking site Bebo to AOL in 2008 for $850m. Their interest in Woolsery stems from it being the birthplace of Michael's mum. He spent time there as a child and still has family connections in the village.

‘The thatched roof had caved in and water was pouring down the walls. I thought, “Oh, very funny”’

Emily has worked with Xochi and Michael for 18 years, curating, creating and managing most of their international lifestyle projects, often simultaneously. These included The Battery – the couple's private members' club in San Francisco – and an estate on the Caribbean island of Moskito. However, it was while Emily was working at the family's home in London that Michael raised the question of this project.

‘He said they'd bought a pub in Woolsery and could I go take a look because it needed “a lick of paint”.

‘When I turned up, I could see the thatched roof had caved in – a tree was growing through it –and water was pouring down the walls. I thought, “Oh, very funny” because that's classic Michael. He comes up with an idea, Xochi makes sure it'll work and then it's my job to make it happen.’

Village life 2.0

Under Emily's stewardship, The Collective has breathed 21st century life into a village that might otherwise have succumbed to a fate all too familiar to countryside dwellers: a corner shop overtaken by a large chain, a Post Office under threat of closure and a shut down pub.

Instead, Woolsery is alive and kicking. Locals pop in and out of the everyday –yet elevated – facilities and the spot also yields serious destination credentials for foodies, explorers and nature lovers. Visitors now pour into the area to visit the award winning pub, attend one of the always sold out natural farming workshops or escape everyday life by relaxing in one of The Collective's rural luxe spaces. ››

Mother of all lessons

From its immaculate skirting boards to flawless service, The Collective screams high standards. This doesn't just mirror Michael and Xochi's vision, but realises expectations instilled in Emily at a young age.

‘My mother was very particular,’ she says. ‘I hated that when I was young but now, when I look back, I have such an appreciation for her.

I didn't realise that all those little touches my mom did to make things beautiful – fresh flowers every day, lighting candles and putting potpourri in the drawers – would also be ingrained in me.’

This attention to detail has served her well throughout her career. At 17, Emily opened her own patisserie and, by her early twenties, was already heading up the pastry section at the Michelin starred restaurant at The Madrona in California. After concluding food service wasn't for her, she further explored her creativity by working with vintage clothing, completing a floristry apprenticeship and managing a spa. It was while working as a concierge at Auberge du Soleil that she discovered the world of private service. She subsequently enrolled on an intensive estate management course at the Starkey International Institute in Denver.

‘Can you imagine teaching housekeepers at The White House how to do things?!’

‘I gave my parents my cat, put my stuff in storage and off I went. I just loved, loved, loved it there. One week I was the driver organising Mrs Starkey's (the founder's) transportation, the next week I was in charge of housekeeping, then I was the groundskeeper and so on.’

After she'd completed the course, Mrs Starkey hired Emily as a teacher – a role that provided lifelong memories.

‘A few times a year, Mrs Starkey would take a couple of teachers with her to Washington DC to do on-site training for staff at The White House and Camp David. Can you imagine teaching housekeepers at The White House how to do things?!’

Emily soon moved on to her ultimate goal of managing private households, which led her to Xochi and Michael.

Delicious discoveries

Complementing Emily's impeccable standards is a love of eccentric creativity; she draws inspiration from everywhere, everything and everyone.

‘I love the little threads you pull that lead to other things. Even if I don't follow up on a new discovery immediately, I put them safely away in a little pocket in my brain until they need to come out.’

A perfect example is land&water. Emily first found the sustainable small batch smellies at the Teals farm shop in Somerset.

‘When we opened the hotel, I identified land&water as the kind of product I wanted to use. Then I discovered they're just down the road in Cornwall and now we have this lovely relationship with them.’ ››

Teals is just one of Emily's favourite local hotspots.

‘If I'm heading anywhere near Bude, I go to the Electric Bakery and buy a miso mushroom roll –they're amazing. I've been known to buy one of everything they make, then bring it back to the pub and throw it down for the team before service. We cut it all up into little pieces so everybody gets a bite of everything.

‘It's just beautiful to relax into somebody else's well-curated hospitality experience. The Glorious Oyster in Instow does these weekend sundowners in the summer. They serve delicious seafood with a bottle of wine while a couple of DJs play tunes in a parking lot by the beach. It isn't directly linked to what we do, but I just love it.

‘I'll also go to The Newt every chance I get because they do incredible top-level hospitality,’ she adds, although she says it's important not to look to the places most similar to you for inspiration.

‘I like to go to places that do something a little different to what we offer, because that takes you on a beautiful journey.’

‘I love the little threads that lead to other things. I put them safely away in a pocket in my brain until they need to come out’

Emily's journey was meant to see her living in Devon for just two years. Then Covid happened and eight years later she's still here – and just as passionate about the project as she was on her very first day. If ten year old Emily could see her life now, she'd surely feel she'd more than achieved her childhood dream.•

woolsery.com

EMILY'S PERFECT WEEKEND

Breakfast treats

‘I love to get some stuff from amazing bakeries like the Electric Bakery in Bude. ’

Hearty hikes

‘I head out for a hike somewhere like Tintagel; that walk on the cliffs is so beautiful ’

Late lunches at indie restaurants

‘I love little independent restaurants like The Rocket Store in Boscastle. Or I pop into Wadebridge, which has a bunch of amazing new restaurants. Wherever I go, I eat myself silly.’

Wine

‘If we're talking perfect weekends, it's good to be with someone who's willing to drive so I can have some wine.’

And repeat

‘On Sundays I like to do it all over again, just heading in a different direction.’

Food Lifestyle

Awards 2025

Thanks to everyone who voted in the Food Lifestyle Awards 2025. The winners were revealed at a grand ceremony at Harbour House in Bristol. Discover who went home with gongs – and what went down on the night

Photography by Guy Harrop

For over a decade, we've championed the South West's best independent food and drink businesses through our Food Lifestyle Awards. The awards cover hospitality from Cornwall to the Cotswolds, and each year we receive thousands of votes from readers.

This year, the competition was as fierce as ever. However, eventually a list of finalists emerged and the lucky few congregated at a celebratory supper and awards ceremony at Harbour House in Bristol on September 15, where winners were revealed throughout the evening.

To kick off the fun, guests were served oysters and Pebblebed Sparkling Brut, grapefruit soda highballs made with Witchmark Single Origin English Vodka, and Lost and Grounded beers.

As befitting a Food Lifestyle Awards ceremony, this was no typical awards dinner of poached chicken in white wine sauce. Instead, Harbour House's head chef Altin Ndoja and team crafted a feast around produce from local farmers and growers.

The menu included house made focaccia with smoked anchovy tapenade, and a starter of cured monkfish with hung yogurt, pickled ginger, orange and dill dressing. Mains were slow cooked beef cheeks with potato gratin and seasonal greens, and the dinner finished with a dessert of classic custard tart with marinated fig and pistachio crumb.

A curation of local producers, growers and makers supported the dinner, while fine wines were supplied by Tolchards and further drinks by Counter Culture Kombucha, Double Dutch, Lost and Grounded, and Radical Roasters.

Read on to meet your finalists and winners! ››

Chef of the year

Sponsored by Harvey & Brockless

Winner: Margot Henderson, The Three Horseshoes

Finalists: Adam Glover, The Woolpack

Ben Champkin, Catch at the Old Fish Market

Carla Jones, The Idle Rocks

Richard Townsend, The Queen's Arms

Restaurant of the year

Sponsored by Lost and Grounded

Winner: Pythouse Kitchen Garden, Tisbury

Finalists: Da Costa, Bruton

Gather, Totnes

Marmo, Bristol

Ogo, Bedruthan

Cool place to stay

Sponsored by Wing of St Mawes

Winner: The Pig near Bath

Finalists: 8 Holland Street, Bath

Beach Retreats, Cornwall

Hinton Hideaways, Crewkerne

Osip, Bruton ››

Hotel of the year

Sponsored by Dole

Winner: Priory Wareham, Wareham

Finalists: Carbis Bay Estate, St Ives

Gara Rock, near Salcombe

Homewood, near Bath

The Painswick, Stroud

Casual dining experience

Sponsored by Tolchards

Winner: Horrell & Horrell, Sparkford

Finalists: Lilac Bakery, Exeter

Outside, Bantham

The Fish Shed, St Ives

The Lost Kitchen, Chettiscombe

Pub of the year

Sponsored by Witchmark

Winner:

The Ilchester Arms, Symondsbury

Finalists: Sign of the Angel, Lacock

The Acorn Inn, Evershot

The Mariners, Rock

The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe

Food brand of the year

Winner: Newlyn Fermentary

Finalists: Brickell's Ice Cream, Shepton Mallet

ChalkStream Trout, Hampshire

Westcombe Dairy, Evercreech

Yeo Valley Organic, Bristol ››

Drink brand of the year

Sponsored by Indy Coffee Guide

Winner: Bar Buoy Cocktails, Exmouth

Finalists: Pilton Cider, Shepton Mallet

Rull Orchard, Exeter

Sprigster, Tisbury

Tribute by St Austell Brewery

Exceptional spa experience

Sponsored by Harbour House

Winner: St Michaels Resort, Falmouth

Finalists: Bristol Lido, Bristol

Darts Farm, Topsham

The Saltwater Sauna, Dorset

Whatley Manor, Malmesbury

Outstanding retail experience

Winner: Farro Bakery, Bristol

Finalists: Folk Interiors, Totnes

Hartley Farm Shop & Kitchen, Bradford on Avon

Landrace Bakery, Bath

Trevaskis Farm, Hayle •

Theart

THE FERMENTER of patience

Iford Manor Kitchen's executive chef Matthew Briddon on the slow alchemy of turning salt, cider and estate raised meats into extraordinary charcuterie

In the garden at Iford Manor Kitchen in Wiltshire, executive chef Matthew Briddon's curing cupboard sits surrounded by glorious greenery. Inside the temperature controlled unit, rare breed and estate reared meats hang at various stages of transformation. It's a slow alchemy of salt, time and patience that creates culinary gold from a few simple ingredients.

‛What I really love about charcuterie is that you can take pork and just add salt to it. Then it's all about technique, time and ageing. It's just amazing,’ says Matthew.

A judge for both the World Charcuterie Awards and the British Charcuterie Awards, Matthew is a seasoned authority on this ancient craft. His curing cupboard – held at a precise 12.5C with 60–65 per cent humidity – houses charcuterie aged for up to three years. Alongside pork, he also cures lamb and beef from the Iford Estate.

‛We use our own lamb and beef, which is a bit different from the more traditional pork. Lamb charcuterie is definitely not the norm,’ he says.

Salt of the earth

The process begins with salting. ‛The amount of salt used is usually three per cent of the weight of the meat. Then we leave the legs in salt for three days per kilo,’ Matthew explains. Once salted, the legs are rinsed – but not in wine, as is traditional. Instead, Iford's house made cider is employed.

‛It sterilises the meat and protects the outside while adding flavour,’ says Matthew. Further flavour is added by rolling the meat in herbs and seeds harvested from the estate's gardens. ‛We use things like fennel pollen and rosemary when it's in abundance. I dry the herbs and seeds, then make them into a powder.’

Mastering the art

While the idea of curing meat at home may be tempting, Matthew is clear it isn't something to try without experience. Curing requires precise control of temperature, humidity and time, which can be difficult in a domestic setting. Matthew has been crafting charcuterie for a quarter of a century and undertaken numerous specialist courses to become a master charcutier.

At the restaurant, his cured meats aren't confined to charcuterie boards. ‛I like using it to enhance dishes instead of adding salt,’ he explains. ‛It has a lot more uses than just being thinly sliced and served on a plate. I like to introduce it into dishes like hispi cabbage or roasted tomatoes.’

When it comes to serving charcuterie, Matthew asserts that temperature matters. ‛Charcuterie served cold is not a good thing; if it isn't at the right temperature you don't get the mouthfeel. Nobody likes to eat cold fat!’

Natural methods

Matthew avoids synthetic additives, opting instead for natural methods when ageing meat: ‛We use natural nitrates. Nitrates are actually found in ingredients like tomatoes and spinach, and we use those instead.’

This makes the process slower, but he accepts that good things take time. ‛We could do this process with an artificial chemical in about three weeks, but it takes six months or more when we use spinach and mushroom fungi.’

A long tradition

The chef doesn't see himself as reinventing the wheel. Instead, he recognises that his work is part of a long culinary lineage that relies on intuition, technique and a deep respect for ingredients.

‛Charcuterie brings umami to dishes and builds flavour; it makes you salivate. It's been made for hundreds of years – and there's a reason it's stayed around.’•

ifordmanor.co.uk

Next issue, Matthew reveals how to turn foraged wild garlic into a punchy ferment with myriad culinary uses.

Dessert is on us

Enjoy two courses from our lunch menu and we’ll treat you to a delectable dessert. All for £24, every Monday to Saturday.

Eating out

The Food Lifestyle team have been eating out around the South West. Here's where's worth a visit this season

Crave

Abi Manning gets the Friday‑night feels at Exeter's buzzy quayside spot

By the time I'd got home from my visit to Crave, I'd already bookmarked it for a return visit with the girls. The upbeat, cocktail‑fuelled hub delivers good times in abundance, with crowd‑pleasing food to match its high‑energy vibe.

Granted, my visit was on a Friday evening, but I suspect Crave glows with that ‛Woohoo it's the weekend’ feeling every night of the week. The buzz comes from staff zipping about with flaming cocktails that leave smoky trails in their wake, a peppy playlist that keeps the pace snappy, and the clink of glasses from raised toasts.

It's no surprise the atmosphere is pitch‑perfect as owner Sameer Shetty was previously operations manager for the Rick Stein Group. Crave is his first solo move (launched in summer 2024) and he's pulled together a pedigree team to help make it fly. That includes head chef Connor Symes, a crack cocktail team and a front‑of‑house crew keeping the ambience on‑point.

In summer, the quayside terrace is a magnet for locals and tourists. However, come winter, the moody interiors – dark walls, fairy lights, botanical wallpaper and houseplants – turn dinner into a twinkly, jungly experience.

Yet, while Crave is casual, it doesn't coast on mood alone. The flexible all‑day menu caters for every occasion with eats including brunch, tacos and small plates alongside freshly landed seafood and sharing steaks. Produce is carefully sourced – fish from Brixham market and meat from Darts Farm – and the result is elevated comfort food designed for sharing.

On my visit, our selection of sharing plates popped with flavour and colour, and turned out to be hearty platters instead of dinky tapas – an elasticated waistband is recommended.

Indulgences included pillowy house‑made focaccia with burrata, romesco and the spicy bite of salsa verde, while cheddar and Marmite croquettes provided crunch and ooze in a nostalgic nod to childhood cheese toasties. Locally caught fish was treated with care, the wedge of flaky hake swimming in a pool of hot tartare, while whole sardines benefited from the pickled tang of their red onion accompaniment.

The house fave of fried chicken combined the sweetness of gochujang honey with the hot whack of homemade kimchi. More crunch factor was found in the tempura Tenderstem with toum (Lebanese garlic sauce) and chilli jam.

In short: we craved, we ate, we conquered.

Tip The cocktails are really good. As designated driver, I opted for the Faux Fashioned mocktail (kombucha, demerara sugar, bitters and smoked whisky‑oak bitters), which announced itself with a flourish as its lid was removed and an oaky mist swirled out. My dinner partner sampled the Blackberry 75: gin infused with rosemary and lemon peel, lemon, sugar, blackberries and Prosecco, finished with a glowing burnt‑rosemary garnish.

Somehow we resisted the lure of the own‑made digestif: a liqueur crafted from leftover lemons and limes steeped in vodka for a week. But it's definitely on the list for that girls' night out ...•

Crave

38 Commercial Road, Exeter, Devon, EX2 4AE craverestaurant.co.uk

Àclèaf

Rosanna Rothery appreciates food as art at the Michelin‑starred restaurant at Boringdon Hall, near Plymouth

Some chefs excel at local sourcing, focusing on seasonal stars. Others showcase impressive technical skills, turning out on‑point classics. Occasionally, you encounter a culinary talent who blows your mind with stunning creativity and combines scintillating textures and flavours in each mouthful.

The rarest chef of all, though, is the one who does all of the above and adds their own signature style to boot. At the Michelin‑starred, four‑AA‑rosette Àclèaf at Boringdon Hall, such artistry is brandished in every dish.

You won't want to eat them, though. Not at first, anyway. Gawping in awe at executive chef Scott Paton's handiwork for a few moments is perfectly acceptable when dishes look this elegant. As with all good art, great craftsmanship slows you down, drops you into the present moment and invites you to engage your senses and notice detail.

Scott started his career at Jack in the Green near Exeter and refined his skills as head chef at the Horn of Plenty in Tavistock, before gaining his star at Boringdon Hall. His culinary prowess, honed over almost a decade at the hotel, is complemented by a front‑of‑house team who create beautiful experiences for guests. When Boringdon's fine‑dining restaurant Àclèaf opened in 2020, it became the main focal point for his, and their, talents.

When it comes to ordering at Àclèaf, agonising decisions must be made. Should you choose the seven‑course tasting menu, one of the wine‑paired menus or a four‑course dinner? Rest assured, whichever route you take (we opted for four courses), the experience will be exquisite.

First to arrive was the bread and hors d'oeuvres trolley. Pain de campagne, including a pain de morvan, served with goat's butter dressed in Boringdon honey and wildflowers, made the kind of beginning to a meal that heralds: ‘You're in safe hands’.

For Scott's fans, it's de rigueur to start with his signature curry‑and‑mango crab dish, and it lived up to its reputation with zesty citrus flavours and a spicy emulsion that bestowed depth. To follow, tender turbot with scallop and langoustine in a classic beurre blanc enjoyed a Japanese makeover with a nori jacket and touch of yuzu and green chilli.

The next course was a fabulous medley of seasonal flavours delivering a piquant bite to the loin of venison supplied by Curtis Pitts. To finish, a single‑origin Nicolas Berger chocolate cracked open to reveal a gratifyingly gorgeous pistachio custard.

Dining at Àclèaf is pretty special. The historical building speaks for itself, but it's the little gifts that wing their way to your table during dinner that add additional delight. We were treated to a cauliflower and truffle velouté, a stupendous milk‑bread brioche, handcrafted chocolates, and a psychology board game that resulted in a bonus (bespoke) dessert.

The culinary odyssey is expertly overseen by restaurant manager and sommelier James Senior. He's rather like a superb DJ, keeping the mood elevated and lining up top wine matches to take the audience to yet higher levels of joy.

Tip If you plan to explore the menu of heady cocktails and sought‑after wines, stay overnight in a smart Wellness Suite and spend the next morning being nourished in the watery bliss of Gaia Spa.•

Àclèaf

Boringdon Hall Hotel, Plymouth, Devon, PL7 4DP boringdonhall.co.uk

Blue Ball Inn

There's only one way to end a wild moorland walk in winter, and that's an indulgent feed in an authentic country pub. Hop to it – and don't skip pudding, says Selena Young

Nothing sweetens the soul in the frosty months like a stomp in the countryside followed by a hearty meal and a drink by the fire in a characterful pub.

The ritual is embedded in our culture and one of the comforting pleasures we cling to in winter. For while it's in our DNA to moan about bad weather, we also get the ‛warm and fuzzies’ from the season. Cashmere knits, dogs snoring in front of the fire, steamed puddings, large glasses of red wine and games of Bananagrams come to mind.

I recently had those feelings stirred while at 13th‑century pub the Blue Ball Inn, hidden away on the magical landscape of Exmoor National Park.

Located in Countisbury on Devon's sliver of Exmoor (over 70 per cent lies in Somerset) and near the twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, this cosy pub with rooms is a pleasingly authentic gateway to the moor.

Work up an appetite before your visit by exploring the charming villages, nearby coastline (Valley of Rocks is a personal fave) or the sweeping hills encircling the pub. As Exmoor is a Dark Sky Reserve, you might even wish upon a shooting star for stags and wild ponies to cross your path.

Once you've arrived, chilly and tired after a hearty hike, you'll be ready to slide into a comfy chair by the fire and pick your poison from the pleasing bar menu. As a St Austell Brewery tenanted pub, stonking brews on tap are guaranteed, while bottles of locally distilled spirits gleam behind the bar.

New owner Roger Payne of the Eclection group (the team behind Robun in Bath) took over the Blue Ball in early 2025 and has given the inn a fresh makeover. This includes glow‑ups of the pub's cosy nooks and crannies as well as a tasteful refurb of the suite of guest rooms.

In contrast to these contemporary adjustments is a dining menu that bows to tradition by majoring on nostalgic comfort food. Fine dining it isn't, but a cosy country pub where the whole fam can feast and feel at home? Absolutely.

Classic pub fare like Exmoor beef burgers, fish and chips and a pie of the day feature on a line‑up that also includes seasonal specials. On our visit these took the form of slow‑cooked pork belly with pomme puree, fresh veg and rich gravy, and pan‑fried duck breast with dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem broccoli, red cabbage and sweet plum sauce. We plumped for the latter and found slices of earthy, tender meat paired with a tangy cloak.

Bookending the meal was a starter of saffron, leek and pea arancini with garlic mayo – gentle in flavour, satisfying in crunch – and a bloated‑belly‑pending dessert of sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream. For comfort in a bowl, it hit the sweet spot nicely.•

Blue Ball Inn

Countisbury Hill, Countisbury, Lynmouth, Devon, EX35 6NE blueballinn.com

EATING OUT

Petty Fours

Petty Fours

Jo Rees unearths a tiny, unexpected treasure in the backstreets of Truro

Tucked away near a car park behind Truro's busy shopping streets, Petty Fours is easy to miss. But for those who stumble upon the tiny restaurant (just 20 covers), it's like striking gold.

Because, while the setting is unshowy, the dining experience is rather special. In less than a year since he rocked up from Essex, chef‑owner Alfred Petty has built the kind of loyal audience most chefs would swap their favourite knife for. One couple reportedly visits every Wednesday and Friday as well as every other Saturday, and Alfred says there's friendly rivalry between regulars about who's eaten there the most (70 visits in nine months tops the leaderboard).

So what's behind this astonishing level of loyalty? Quite simply: the food.

To keep his regulars on their toes, Alfred changes the menu almost daily. To do this, he's simplified it to the likes of ‛market fish of the day’ and ‛pasta of the day’, served with whichever vegetables are in micro‑season. Falmouth grower Pasha delivers crops she's harvested that week, while fish comes via Matthew Stevens with the same remit: send what's good. If scallops are out but mackerel is in abundance, the menu swivels accordingly.

Recent tweaks have sharpened the dining experience further. The set/tasting format has been retired in favour of two straightforward choices: a Short Experience (£56) and a Full Experience (£63). Pick the short route and choose either a starter or dessert with the main. With the starter comes an amuse bouche; choose dessert to get the pre‑dessert. Naturally, everyone gets petits fours – it's in the name. Plump for the Full Experience to get the whole lot.

While the format has evolved, the original Petty Fours MO remains: fine‑dining technique delivered with warmth. On our visit, an elegant cornet of chicken liver parfait arrived pricked with sweet chilli, while a tiny crisp tartlet layered with garlicky soft cheese and finely sliced grapes was crafted with similar precision. Bread took the form of pillowy focaccia with smoked and salted butter – a belt‑and‑braces approach to indulgence.

Our starter, a salad of beetroot, pear, fig and walnut, read simply but ate like a symphony: earthy, sweet, crunchy and bright, and finished with good green oil.

For mains, we luxuriated in the warm hug of a bowl of hot beef broth with short‑rib tortellini and mushrooms, including tiny pink pickled fungi that cut through the rich umami flavours.

A crowd‑pleasing chocolate delice with crème fraîche ice cream arrived glossy and rich for dessert, the tang counterpointing the chocolate sweetness, while crumb and caramel shards delivered texture.

Those with an iota of room left could segue to a cheeseboard, cut tableside – one of several small pieces of theatre introduced by new manager James Bott.

First‑time visitors might wonder about the whimsical details to be found at Petty Fours, which include a board‑game theme. It's tied to the name: Petty Fours references Alfred and his three brothers (surname Petty) who loved to play games together. They sadly lost Charley just weeks before opening, so the name and theme are a tribute.

Tip Book early to beat the regulars to one of those 20 seats, especially as lunch service only runs on Fridays and Saturdays. Dinner is on Tuesday to Saturday, and there's a smart take on Sunday lunch every other week.•

Petty

Fours

4‑5 Old Bridge Street, Truro, Cornwall, TR1 2AQ pettyfours.co.uk

Ugly Butterfly 2.0

NEWQUAY, CORNWALL

Next chapter for no‑waste restaurant

Ugly Butterfly made waves at Carbis Bay and is now sparking surprise and delight at its new residence: five‑star Headland Hotel, overlooking Fistral Beach.

Former Great British Menu champion

Adam Handling MBE (and his OG team) delivers a super‑special experience. Impeccable food from boundary‑pushing chefs and wines recommended by experienced sommeliers are matched by service from an efficient front‑of‑house team.

Adam's sustainable menu is crafted to let guests create their own journey through the South West larder and features a number of theatrical flourishes along the way. UB2.0 also hosted the launch of the Trencherman's Guide edition 33.

uglybutterfly.co.uk

Yamas

LOOE, CORNWALL

Greek and Cornish fusion

At Yamas (the Greek toast ‘to our health!’), Hellenic dishes packed with Cornish ingredients make for a sublime collision of cultures.

Set right on the water's edge, Yamas is for gourmets who subscribe to the idea that good food tastes all the sweeter with a noseful of sea air and a backdrop of higgledy‑piggledy fishermen's cottages.

Everything, from the expertly slow cooked beef‑cheek stifado to the crispy calamari and even the humble Greek salad, is carefully curated by head chef Nikos Oikonomopoulos (who co owns Yamas with chef Ben Palmer of sister restaurant The Sardine Factory) to maximise authenticity and flavour. ›› yamaslooe.com

Da Costa

BRUTON, SOMERSET

A slice of Italy in Bruton

Somerset's most raved‑about town is a magnet for gourmets, and this impressive Italian eatery, rooted in tradition, is one of its key crowd‑pullers. Da Costa is part of Artfarm, a collective comprising unique destinations, including fellow Bruton business Roth Bar, as well as The Groucho Club in Soho.

The restaurant is inspired by Artfarm co‑founder Iwan Wirth's maternal grandfather, who came from a small, mountainous village in the Veneto region of northern Italy. Head chef Robert Smart remains true to northern Italian recipes in the kitchen but gives them a Somerset spin using freshly grown, seasonal ingredients from the restaurant's walled garden and the surrounding area.

da-costa.co.uk

Le Vin Perdu

ASHBURTON, DEVON

Fresh French vibes

Le Vin Perdu looks to France for its flavour cues while maintaining the laid‑back neighbourhood vibe of its sibling restaurant, Italian‑inspired Emilia.

The rotisserie‑led experience takes inspiration from French neighbourhood bistros where the menu changes weekly to reflect whatever's local, seasonal and at its best. The kitchen scours Dartmoor and the South Hams for hyper‑local produce, which is treated with reverence at this ancient townhouse restaurant. levinperdu.co.uk

Thirteen POOLE, DORSET

Artistic tasting experience

Thirteen is located a short detour from Poole Quay and Sandbanks on Dorset's famed coastline. Contrary to what you might imagine, it's not the street number that gives this intimate restaurant its name, but the number of plates on its tasting menu. Can't manage 13 courses at lunch? A 6.5 plates option is available on weekdays and at lunchtime.

The food leans towards a modern British cooking style and has earned Thirteen a host of accolades, including a spot in the Michelin Guide

The family crew's passion for produce runs through everything, so the menu is built around seasonality and sustainability. Ingredients are homegrown, locally sourced, and fished and foraged by the team.

thirteenrestaurant.com

Caper & Cure

STOKES CROFT, BRISTOL

Neighbourhood bistro vibes

Situated in the indie‑rich quarter of Bristol, in the sweet spot between Stokes Croft and Montpelier, Caper & Cure is one of the city's most compelling dining experiences.

The intimate restaurant serves smart, ingredient‑led dishes which are modern European in style with a classical French influence.

The chef's table experience for ten delivers supper with a theatrical edge – think The Bear, minus the intensity.• caperandcure.co.uk

Travel

The South West's coolest, quirkiest and most fabulous places to escape to this winter

to stayCool places

Alice Humphrys reveals a collection of cosy cabins, arty townhouses and countryside finds for winter weekends away

8 Holland Street Townhouse

Bath

This boutique B&B, curated by designer and art collector Tobias Vernon, is also home to his gallery and design shop. The three‑bedroom townhouse is playful and unexpected, displaying what Tobias calls an ‘easy-going medley of stuff’.

Walls painted in a soft off‑white create a calm backdrop for British and European artwork and iconic 20th‑century furniture. Tobias and his team have an eye for contrasting colours and styles: a bright green and yellow Plain English kitchen sits alongside mid‑century Vitsœ shelving. His approach is intuitive – he simply buys what he loves.

Upstairs, the ensuite bedrooms are cosy and comfortable with plush mattresses, crisp linen and bathrooms kitted out with Drummonds fixtures and Austin Austin products.

A generous sitting room with grand Palladian windows is open to guests to use as they please: sip a drink, browse the bookshelves or take inspiration from the makers' and artists' works on display. 8hollandstreet.com

Champernhayes

Bridport, Dorset

Once a working farm, Champernhayes is home to a large thatched barn, farmhouse and four cottages in the Dorset countryside near Lyme Bay. Book a cosy nook for two, or grab the gang for a huge multigenerational get‑together. In total, the accommodation can host up to 34 guests.

The 14th‑century farm's medieval thatched farmhouse (sleeps nine) and converted barn (sleeps 12) are the standout larger properties. Recently refurbished, yet full of original character, they showcase historic features such as exposed A‑frame beams, large inglenook fireplaces and original 15th‑century stone flooring. There's also a small, indoor children's pool.

You might just want to chill at Champernhayes but there's also plenty to do nearby. The Jurassic Coast is just a stone's throw away and the cottages are surrounded by woodland and meadows to explore.

Foodies will appreciate the local scene: River Cottage HQ is just down the road, while local chef Mark Hix hosts foraging courses nearby. ››

champernhayes.com

Cove Valley

Tiverton, Devon

Cove Valley is the ultimate rural escape. Remote, off grid and intentionally hard to track down, it feels like a bit of a secret. On the edge of Exmoor National Park, it's part of a mission to rewild a 300‑acre nature reserve.

Owners Yolanda and Ben Cruwys teamed up with HÁM interiors to create three snug cabins, each designed in line with the studio's meticulous attention to detail. Expect to relax amid a Native American‑inspired aesthetic with rustic finishes and a colour palette rooted in the surrounding landscape.

The wood clad cabins are designed for indoor–outdoor living. Scoff a pizza cooked in the Gozney oven before sinking into a wood‑fired steamy bath under the veranda.

At daybreak, immerse yourself in nature by exploring the vast Exe Valley where red deer roam, wild boar wander and beavers make their home. Disconnecting from the modern world never felt so fabulously wild.

covevalley.co.uk

Yeo Valley Rural Stays

Blagdon, Somerset

Perched above Blagdon Lake, and on the fringes of Bristol's urban buzz, the Yeo Valley Organic farm is home to a cluster of self‑catering spots. They range from a one bedroom barn to a five bedroom house, but all are crafted for slow living.

Rooted in the company's ethos of low‑impact sustainability, each has been kitted out using locally sourced and recycled materials. The accommodation is perfect for a winter getaway. Wake to birdsong, ramble across rolling countryside and through Yeo Valley Organic's gardens before lunching at its excellent HQ canteen or its pub. Then, as evening falls, linger over a slow supper before curling up on a corner sofa by a crackling fire, or catching a film in the cosy cinema room. ››

yeovalley.co.uk

St Michaels Resort

Falmouth, Cornwall

Leafy gardens, two restaurants and a luxe spa make this coastal resort a mecca for those looking to feed body and soul.

Culinary delights come courtesy of talented head chef Dave Waters. As a younger chef he spent six years with Nathan Outlaw, sharpening his seafood skills to razor‑clam edge precision.

Entertainment can be found by wandering through the subtropical gardens, testing your mettle in the outdoor cold plunge, letting jets in the hydrothermal pool ease your knotted your muscles, marinating in mud with a rhassoul treatment, or working up a sweat in the well‑equipped Health Club.

Check online for the latest curated (and keenly priced) breaks.

stmichaelsresort.com

Timbrell's Yard

Bradford‑on‑Avon, Wiltshire

In a riverside spot in Bradford‑on‑Avon, this 17th century Grade II‑listed gem was once a dye mill and the home of mill owner Charles Timbrell.

Fast forward a few centuries and it's now a boutique hotel and part of the Stay Original Company's collection of beautiful accommodation. It features a cosy bar with an ancient fireplace, an airy restaurant headed up by exec chef Tom Blake, and 17 individually styled bedrooms. While the older wing wows with ancient beams, padded silk and freestanding baths, the newer section is all mezzanine levels, window seats, picture windows and river views.

Four‑legged friends are welcome in the bar and select guest rooms, as well as on the stone‑flagged terrace – a nice spot for coffee after a riverside stroll.

Dubbed ‘Bath's little sister’, the historical town comes minus the crowds of its big sibling and deserves a space in your little black book. File it under ‛weekend hotspots’.

timbrellsyard.com

The Greenway

Hotel and Spa

Cheltenham, Gloucestershire

Arriving at The Greenway, with its long drive lined with neatly clipped hedges, feels like stepping into a period drama. The elegant Elizabethan manor may be just minutes from Cheltenham but, as a result of its award winning spa and rural location, provides a bucolic wellness experience.

The former family home was turned into a hotel in 1947 and underwent a major refurb in 2023. Although now thoroughly modernised, it still retains much of its Elizabethan glory.

Highlights include a sauna, outdoor hot tub, croquet lawn and sweeping countryside views. Bedrooms are spacious – some featuring slipper tubs, plush sofas and four poster beds.

Head chef Abhijit Dasalkar crafts seasonal dishes with bold flavours. His inventive, beautifully presented cooking can be savoured in the three AA rosette Garden Room Restaurant, while casual dishes and classic comfort food are served in the bar and lounge. The fish pie with saffron cream is a must order, while indulgent afternoon teas deliver the full works.•

thegreenwayhotelandspa.com

TRIED AND TESTED

The

Beach

House

Jo Rees heads to ‛Hollywood‑on‑Sea’ to test run a house made for group getaways

WhatsApp's pretty good for staying au courant with that group of old friends you don't see as much as you'd like. Yet, while it keeps you up to date with their latest job, house move, holiday and favourite (bad) memes, nothing beats being in the room together to reignite the magic.

If your group of uni friends, childhood chums or old work pals is well overdue an IRL rendezvous, let me reveal a rather special house in Cornwall with all the elements required for a grand meeting of the clan.

What

The Beach House is a beautiful and contemporary holiday home in Mawgan Porth, run by Beach Retreats. The company specialises in self‑catering holidays on the Cornish coast and has a website stuffed with lovely houses. However, for jaw‑dropping gorgeousness and indulgent luxe, scroll straight to its Iconic Set. The Beach House is a member of this six‑strong club and sleeps 12 in comfort and smart style.

Why

Join the in‑crowd at what's colloquially known as Hollywood‑on‑Sea, thanks to the host of A‑listers rumoured to have bought properties in the village. Might you find yourself out back waiting to catch the next wave with Jason Momoa, navigating the beach steps with Cate Blanchett or sipping fizz in the Merrymoor Inn next to Chris Martin? ››

Of course, no self‑respecting Food Lifestyle reader would have their head turned by that sort of celeb proximity (ahem), so the real ‛why’ is for Good Times with a capital G – and T.

This house has been cleverly crafted for pleasure and relaxation. Outdoors, soak in a wooden hot tub surrounded by lush planting, break through the glassy surface of the warm Hockney‑esque pool, laze on loungers by the water, or chat in armchairs overlooking the sea. There's also an alfresco kitchen with a high‑spec gas barbie, fridge and dining table.

Inside, the heart of the upside‑down house (designed to maximise the vibrant sea views) is a large open kitchen with a huge hunk of a dining table and sofas to chill while someone else whips up a culinary masterpiece. A cosy sitting room with wood burner, a large cinema room (also with a fire), a games room and generous bedrooms provide plenty of places to be sociable – and to escape to.

Introverts who really do need a significant amount of quiet time to balance all the hilarity should bagsy the poolside annexe, which has its own sitting room, kitchenette and two twin bedrooms.

Clockwise from top: hanging out in the kitchen; twin room in the annexe; games room

When

We visited at the end of September when the weather was so balmy we were able to swim in the sea and hang out on pool loungers in our cossies.

A visit in winter would deliver delights of a different hue: games evenings by the fire, steamy hot‑tubbing under the stars, blustery walks on the beach and sausage sizzles in woolly hats and scarves. Out of season it's possible to stay for two or three nights – in high summer there's a seven‑night minimum rule.

Verdict

Our group was looking up future availability and discussing bookings before we'd even departed, which pretty much speaks for itself. However, in case it needs spelling out: it's fabulous.

Recommend to friends?

Just that particular WhatsApp group. After all, there are only going to be so many weekends available – and I want one of them.•

beachretreats.co.uk

TRIED AND TESTED

PEDN

Abi Manning heads to St Ives to dip her toe in the water at St Austell Brewery's newly transformed seaside inn

Legend has it that St Ives was created when a young Irish missionary, Saint Ia, miraculously floated across the sea on a leaf, establishing a church where the Cornish town now stands.

The intentions for my pilgrimage (eat, drink, swim, shop, repeat) and travel method (car) may not have been so saintly, but the experience was certainly divine.

What

St Austell Brewery owns around 180 pubs across the South West, approximately 50 of which are managed by the brewery itself. Many of the latter have been treated to a striking glow‑up in recent years and there are more in the pipeline.

Having already experienced one of these refurbs at the Pier House in Charlestown, which was swanked up this year following a devastating fire, my hopes for this newly unveiled sister site were high.

Why

Pedn Olva, located in a superior position on rocks overlooking Porthminster Beach and St Ives Bay, has just been given the St Austell Brewery treatment in a transformational overhaul, both inside and out.

The region's landscape and mining past (the pub itself is on the site of a former engine house for a copper mine) is referenced at every turn. A hunk of granite adorns reception, a bespoke copper sculpture towers above the ten‑metre bar, expansive glazing connects guests to the ocean, and locally crafted artwork adorns the walls. The decor in the 27 bedrooms creates further coastal connection via glass fishing floats, nautical rope and reclaimed driftwood. ››

Clockwise from left: sea‑view terraces; bathe with Cornish land&water products; local produce in the kitchen

Naturally, the menu follows suit. Cornish classics such as the daily catch and fish and chips rub shoulders with the likes of pan‑roasted breast of chicken with Cornish crab, charred calabrese, anchovy hollandaise and dill.

The inn's seafood supplier, Matthew Stevens, is based just ten minutes down the road, so fresh fish and shellfish are a given ‑ and an excellent shout. I started with steamed mussels bathed in a Cornish Orchards cider, clotted cream, spring onion and parsley sauce, with focaccia for dipping.

For mains, I plumped for dressed crab with a side salad, wasabi cream, sliced ciabatta and fries. Cornish clotted cream lemon posset with a traditional hevva biscuit delivered a zingy finale.

Nearby

Guests are culturally and coastally spoilt for choice in St Ives. Art lovers will want to tick off Tate St Ives, the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, The Leach Pottery and the countless indie galleries dotted around town. There are also plenty of opportunities to get a blast of the outdoors via windy walks on the South West Coast Path, beach strolls and sea sports.

Or sizzle in a beach sauna, hop aboard a boat trip in search of dolphins and seals, or head to Tarquin's to make gin.

Verdict

If you can, book a room with sea views – it would be sacrilege not to soak up the coastal vista at every opportunity. Then, after check‑in, crack the spine of a new novel while sipping a complimentary korev from the minibar as the ocean crashes in the distance.

Recommend to friends?

St Ives may heave with visitors in summer, but it shines in low season. Pedn Olva is a delicious place to cosy up with friends and sip ale while watching the weather whip across the bay. Now that's a Proper (Job) way to do a weekend.•

pednolva.co.uk

Exeter

Devon's capital reveals some surprising indie restaurants, stores and experiences – if you know where to look.

Selena Young shares her cheat sheet on the city's coolest finds

Like many cities, Exeter's high street is chocka with chains. However, you know the drill for finding one‑of‑a‑kind shops, restaurants, cafes, bakeries and bars: skirt the main drag and head to the indie laden edges.

We've done exactly that, saving you the work of sniffing out Exeter's best spots, so you can hit the ground running as soon as you arrive.

Wine and dine

First to bask in the spotlight of our Exeter hit list is Stage. The restaurant on Magdalen Road enjoys notable acclaim in the city, partly as a result of a glowing review by Jay Rayner in The Observer and an inclusion in the Michelin Guide.

Head chef Felix Craft and team – known as the Taco Boys from a previous venture – keep the tasting menus tastily priced at four courses for £30 or six for £55.

What the chefs cook depends on what's in season, is currently growing in their market garden, is available from the smokehouse, or can be sourced from local farms and fishermen. The team also brew their own beer and kombucha.

Highlights from our recent visit included moreish house‑cured meats; cold smoked pastrami with dill, pickled beets and kohlrabi slaw; and a confit duck‑leg taco with garden salad and wholegrain mustard.

Other good dining finds on Magdalen Road include pint‑size Spanish small plates restaurant Calvo Loco Tapas Bar – take a group and a keep‑'em‑coming attitude. For further casual feasting, the bubbling slices at Portal Pizza are *chef's kiss.

Harry's is another special find in the city. Chef‑owner Samantha Pounds and her daughters run the restaurant, which has been in their family for a few generations. Great date‑night territory, it delivers an authentic and delicious dining experience. ››

Dishes are beautifully crafted yet crowd‑pleasing – think the gooiest cheese soufflé or the simple pleasures of pork milanese with fried egg, rocket and parmesan salad and lemon and caper butter. Arrive in enough time to savour one of the knockout cocktails before dinner – the French 75 is a good call.

Down at Exeter Quayside, Rockfish offers further opportunities to feast on fresh fruits de mer – or just good old fashioned fish and chips. Crave, meanwhile, is an upbeat dining hotspot with let‑your‑hair‑down energy, an all‑day menu and quaffable cocktails (read Abi's review on page 38).

Post‑feast, sink a nightcap at contemporary bottleshop and bar Pullo, which specialises in natural wines and artisan ciders from small producers. More quality sips can be imbibed at wine bar Rendezvous and the moodily lit Crocketts, which deals in craft spirits and smart cocktails.

Brews and bites

Exeter has become a fun playground for adventures in speciality coffee.

Anyone alighting from Exeter Central train station will want to take a sharp right for a flat white and pastries at Exploding Bakery. Its range of signature traybakes are rustled up at the HQ across town.

A little further along, cafe and lifestyle store Hyde & Seek is a find for gift‑worthy prints and homewares, as well as crema‑rich espresso and bittersweet matcha. The bright satsuma frontage of Devon Coffee is just a minute's stroll away and also delivers on the caffeine front.

Carry on riding the flavour train at Magdalen Road, where The Common Beaver baristas craft dam‑good filter brews and homemade bagels.

Down at the quayside, discover coffee kicks waxed in surf culture at Sundays. Beans are sourced from The Roasting Room in Newquay and the vibe is lazy seaside.

The Boatyard Bakery, across the water, delivers ASMR thrills. The aroma of fresh espresso mingles with the waft of sourdough baking in the open‑plan kitchen. Enjoy visuals of the water to one side and bakers kneading dough on the other, all while nibbling killer carby confections.

Lilac Bakery, on the fringes of the city centre, is worth a detour for pimped‑up pastries that reflect the season. Pair a syrupy apricot bostock with a sparklingly clean V60, then make good use of the resulting sugar and caffeine rush by stomping to community‑centric Fore Street.

After all that caffeine, decent food will be in order. Sacred Grounds, in the atrium of McCoys Arcade, delivers big‑time. The vibrant cafe‑restaurant is known for its creative plant‑based brunches and speciality coffee. Veg‑packed sarnies, sweet or savoury buckwheat waffles, salad bowls and innovative vegan spins on egg‑based faves are all menu stalwarts. Seasonal specials include the likes of black forest tiramisu french toast (a combo of banana french toast, sweet dark cherries, vegan “mascarpone”, chocolate and decaf espresso), best paired with a Triple Co Roast espresso lavished with creamy oat milk.

Check out Sacred's swoony retail curation and plan a return trip for one of its regular events. These include candlelit supper clubs and seasonal soirees such as the Winter Fayre, which takes place on December 11.

For further refreshment, freshly blitzed lemonades and iced teas accompany the caramel‑esque Bristol‑roasted coffee at The Press House

Closer to the centre, there's always a great tune spinning on the turntable, juicy batch brew flowing and a curation of vinyl records to flick through at lively 12 Bar Music & Social.

Brews of the alcoholic variety can be swigged at new Otter Brewery pub The Holt, which overlooks the cathedral, quayside at Topsham Brewery or locals' hangout Turk's Head on the High Street. ››

Clockwise from top left: freshly baked pastries at Lilac Bakery; Exploding Bakery's cafe; Sacred Grounds' seating in the arcade

Shopping and sightseeing

Gandy Street is a treasure trove of indie finds, including cocoa utopia Chococo and eclectic craft and gift shop Maker Mart

Back on Magdalen Road, Maker Maker is home to all sorts of gorgeous items that tug at the heart [read: purse] strings, such as cutesy decorations, knitted socks, children's toys and acoustic guitars. The road also runs the gamut of gourmet shopping opportunities. Go wild for posh picky bits at Bon Goût Deli, sample stinky blues and bries at Magdalen Cheese & Provisions and stuff your totes with organic produce at Ben's Farm Shop

Flit back to Fore Street to shop girly prints, spiritual treasures and gifts tapping into meme culture at Helen of Troy, or throw some clay about at The Jolly Pottery

At McCoys Arcade, bookworms can scan the shelves of Bookbag, hopheads can judge beers by their funky designs and flavour notes at Hops + Crafts, while those with a penchant for vintage clothing will enjoy having a rummage at The Real McCoy

Further vintage shop‑till‑you‑drop opportunities await at Roundel Clothing, which delivers a blast of subcultures past. Neighbouring shop Frocks in Swing Time features retro clothing and classic accessories for glamour pusses. More voguish browsing can be achieved at recently opened lifestyle store Folk Interiors on Cathedral Close.

For entertainment, check out the cultural thrills and performances at multi arts venue Exeter Phoenix, or take an informative snoop around the Royal Albert Memorial Museum & Art Gallery •

THE FULL WORKS

Hotel & Spa Budock Vean

Rosanna Rothery visits a sanctuary of tranquility perched above the Helford River in Cornwall

The restorative power of nature can't be denied when the hotel you're staying in sits above the banks of Cornwall's tranquil Helford River. The stunning estuary takes a starring role at this four‑star haven, where rejuvenating saunas, sports, swimming and spa treatments are an antidote to doomscrolling and adrenaline addiction. Even if you arrive in a sapped state, you'll leave serene from river walks, garden jaunts, pampering rituals and – should you be inspired to putt balls and swing irons – a round of golf.

Gorgeous gardens

First, though, explore the stunning garden. Even if there's a light drizzle, it's fun sheltering beneath huge gunneras and a canopy of trees. Take a saunter past ponds and exotic plants to discover a private cove nestled into the river. The utter peacefulness of this oak‑fringed stretch of water transports you to another age. The ancient woods, bobbing boats and quiet shores feel a world away from modern life.

A yomp along the coast to pebbled nooks and pretty villages makes for a bracing tonic. There's plenty to discover in this beautiful part of Cornwall: hidden away coves, ancient creeks, cosy pubs and a unique microclimate that favours jungly plants.

Two of the most beautiful gardens are within walking distance. Both Trebah and the National Trust's Glendurgan are home to a number of exotic and subtropical species, and both wend their way to the water's edge on Helford's shoreline.

Time for tea

Coastal walks should be rewarded with a sumptuous afternoon tea in the conservatory. Who doesn't enjoy cooing over a three‑tiered stand of finger sandwiches, fresh‑from‑the‑oven scones and elegant bite‑size patisserie?

Both the fruit and plain scones are towering triumphs (not those disappointing dense numbers, barely worth a scraping of butter) and come paired with clotted cream, Boddington's Cornish strawberry jam and lashings of juicy gossip. And when the time comes to take up arms (teaspoon, butter knife) and defend the order in which you apply jam and cream, do remember where you are. ››

R&R at the spa

Don't leave without paying a visit to the spa. Surrounded by leafy plants, the indoor swimming pool and aspen‑wood finnish sauna provide the kind of rejuvenating water‑and‑heat therapies that facilitate survival during the colder months. Weather permitting, top it all off with a sesh in the outdoor hot tub. The bubbling cauldron of stress relief sits on a chic Scandinavian‑style raised deck with views across the garden.

These rural surroundings also set the tone for a nature‑centric, hour‑long spa treatment indoors. There are plenty of facials and therapies to choose from, but a Gaia Restorative Treatment is especially blissful.

First comes a warm footbath, followed by a foot massage, which sends feelings of grounded wellbeing coursing through your body. Then a skin‑tingling back exfoliation brings nerve endings alive. Next, a thermal mud mask, hot stones and a massage with warmed oils gifts the body the kind of therapeutic heat it craves in winter. Skin is left buttery soft, knots are kneaded away and the mind feels joyously calm. Gaia products are loaded with plant actives and essential oils so you'll also smell divine.

Activities galore

For those feeling the need to earn dinner, there are plenty of activities to be experienced at the hotel. In summer, boat trips, paddleboarding and kayaking on the river make for diverting fun. Follow with drinks at the riverside sun lounge.

In winter, curling up with a book and recharging the batteries is infinitely more appealing. Choose your spot from four comfy lounges, a garden conservatory, a cocktail bar and the golf bar.

That said, climatic conditions tend to be pretty mild in this corner of the world, so don't rule out a spot of tennis or giving the popular nine‑hole golf course your best shot.

Follow your exertions with a traditional dinner in the Helford Restaurant. Here you'll discover a mixture of specials, such as roast duck breast with port and cherry sauce, alongside old‑school classics like pan‑roasted chicken supreme and desserts such as peach melba trifle.

Cornish magic

The hotel has a super‑relaxed, home‑from‑home vibe. Conversations are struck up by guests over cocktails, dinner and sundowners and the atmosphere is charmingly unpretentious. There's a lovely range of accommodation to choose from, including smart contemporary self‑catering lodges and well equipped holiday cottages.

If you prefer to stay inside the hotel, the spacious suites have everything you need: comfy lounge, large bathroom with walk‑in shower, fluffy gowns, flip flops, pool towels and generous bottles of Gaia products. Window snugs, providing charming views over the garden to the wooded valley, are the perfect perch for that first perk‑up coffee of the day.

Brekkie is unapologetically traditional (not a smashed avo or chia pot in sight), so set yourself up for the day with dry‑cured bacon, baked ham, smoked salmon and toasted muffins. There's also a supporting cast of yogurt, croissants and fruits.

If, on arrival at Budock Vean Hotel & Spa, you found yourself topping up your cortisol levels by scrolling through your social media feed or obsessing over life admin, rest assured this peaceful corner of Cornwall won't fail to work its rejuvenating magic. The Helford River is a heavenly spot worth returning to again and again.•

Budock Vean Hotel & Spa

Near Helford Passage, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 5LG budockvean.co.uk

Weekendcooking

How to craft a showstopping chocolate marquise and the Ultimate Chocolate Fudge Cake

source Chocolate

Exeter's Exploding Bakery is feted for its bakes, but it's no accident they're so good. Founder Oliver Coysh tells Rosanna Rothery about his trip to source the high grade cocoa used in the Ultimate Chocolate Fudge Cake (page 82)

Imagine a chocolate cake so deeply enticing and delicious that you find yourself tripping along to the fridge several times a day for another cheeky little spoonful – all in the interest of professional research, of course. That's how Oliver Coysh, owner of Exploding Bakery in Exeter, found himself engaging with the early prototypes of his Ultimate Chocolate Fudge Cake.

Before a cake gets upscaled for commercial production, the team at Exploding Bakery make several versions to identify the ultimate recipe.

‘The trouble was we had about 12 versions and I would end up taking them home and to parties,’ says Oliver.

‘There's something so very unctuous about chocolate fudge cake: the texture and flavour are very addictive. In fact, I developed a bit of an issue with it, where I would be standing up and spooning it out of the box, straight from the fridge.’

Oliver realised this compulsive behaviour was actually a sign the Exploding Bakery was on to something special. He was right; the stonkingly good cake has become one of the bakery's bestsellers.

Advent of an obsession

Oliver's love affair with chocolate is rooted in nostalgia, and he recalls the giddy childhood anticipation and daily thrill of opening a window on the advent calendar to devour the cheap chocolate inside.

‘I'm still obsessed with advent calendars and that sickly sweet hit of chocolate on a fuzzy morning tongue,’ he laughs.

Those 25 grainy chocs scoffed in the countdown to Christmas Day turned out to be a gateway drug and he's since moved on to the hard stuff, upgrading to 70 per cent single origin chocolate.

Fancy or cheap?

Even when it comes to crafting Exploding Bakery's iconic brownies, Oliver steers clear of using low grade chocolate.

‘It could be viewed as a waste to use really high-quality chocolate in baking, but a lot of Michelin-starred restaurants in France use Valrhona,’ he says. ‘In the UK they often use Pump Street Chocolate.

‘Chocolate connoisseurs, familiar with the subtleties of flavours in chocolate, are able to pick up on them and can tell if a brownie or pain au chocolat has been made with, say, Valrhona.’

For his own bakes, Oliver opts for Luker Chocolate. The Colombian family owned chocolate producer has over a hundred years of experience of crafting top notch chocolate at origin.

‘A high-acid flavour can be jarring in sweet bakes, but Luker Chocolate has a delicious nutty flavour,’ Oliver says. ‘We use it in the Ultimate Chocolate Fudge Cake and it bounces off the ground almonds while giving an overall rounded flavour.’ ››

‘Always Criollo or Trinitario varieties, never low-grade Forastero’

The best chocolate, he contends, isn't merely about flavour; it's also about mouthfeel and balance.

‘If there isn't enough cocoa butter, the mouthfeel can be quite dry. A tiny bit of sugar is essential, too, for overall balance.’

Trip to origin

Oliver and the team are so serious about sourcing the good stuff that they recently took a trip to Colombia to visit Casa Luker.

‘Chocolate is the commodity we buy in the largest quantity,’ says Oliver. ‘We spend about a quarter of a million pounds a year on it, so we want to get it right.’

During the trip, Oliver saw first hand the diverse range of cacao that Casa Luker uses – always Criollo or Trinitario varieties, never the low grade Forastero.

However, it's Casa Luker's unwavering commitment to ethical and sustainable practices that really impressed Oliver. The company works directly with local farmers to ensure cocoa beans are sourced without any forms of exploitation or child labour.

‘Slavery has become a bit of an issue with chocolate from Africa,’ says Oliver. ‘The children on farms end up working for free because farmers are constantly getting hammered on prices and then can't afford to pay the children. In Colombia this is monitored very tightly.’

Casa Luker also promotes environmentally friendly farming practices and invests in education and healthcare programmes for the farming communities. Exploding Bakery is also supporting

an initiative to protect the tropical dry forest – the most endangered forest ecosystem in Colombia.

‘The country is so beautiful and green, the soil so fertile,’ he says. ‘And the people are incredible. They're not rich but they are very generous – when you visit, they feed you a lot!’

Turn the page to get the recipe for Oliver's Ultimate Chocolate Fudge Cake. ››

cake fudge chocolate Ultimate

Exploding Bakery's nostalgic cake conjures up the 1970s, but is dressed up for modern tastebuds

The bakery's founder, Oliver Coysh, says: ‘This is the type of fudge cake that would've shown up at birthday parties, school fetes or been served in restaurants alongside Mateus Rosé.

‘The cocoa paste brings proper chocolate depth, the eggs have been whipped into action to give a mousse-y lift and the icing sits halfway between a ganache and childhood birthday-cake frosting. It has all the comfort of the past but is made with the sort of ingredients your adult self can feel smug about – until, shamefully, you get caught – spoon in hand – eating it straight from the fridge.’

Serves 14-16

For the cake

Boiling water 200g

Cocoa powder 100g

Cornflour 5g

Rapeseed oil 280g

Caster sugar 370g

Medium eggs 6

Ground almonds 280g

Bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp

Salt 1/2 tsp

For the icing

Icing sugar 100g

Full-fat

cream cheese 150g

Quality dark chocolate like Valrhona or Green & Black's 125g

For the topping

Chopped pistachios 20g

1 For the cake: preheat oven to 170C fan/gas 5 and line a 25cm (10 inch) springform tin with greaseproof paper. Scrunch the paper into a ball then unravel it and press into the tin.

2 Pour the boiling water into a bowl with the cocoa powder and cornflour and whisk together until it forms a paste. Set aside to cool slightly.

3 Using a stand mixer or an electric whisk, mix the oil, sugar and eggs on a high speed until frothy and increased in volume. This will take about 5 minutes.

4 Add the cocoa powder paste to the mixing bowl and mix until it's fully incorporated. Now fold in the ground almonds, bicarbonate of soda and salt until it becomes a glossy, runny batter. Pour into the lined baking tin and bake for about 1 hour until a skewer comes out clean.

5 For the icing: beat together the icing sugar and cream cheese until there are no lumps.

6 Fully melt the chocolate – either in a microwave or on a bain marie – then add to the icing sugar and cream cheese mixture. Fully combine, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula to ensure there are no unmixed ingredients.

7 Remove the cooked cake from its tin and leave to cool for a while. It doesn't matter if the cake is still warmish when you ice it, as long as it's not hot. The icing should be spreadable – if it's not, give it a short blast in the microwave.

8 Spread the icing over the top of the cake with a spatula and top with a sprinkling of chopped pistachios to create contrasting colour and crunch.

9 To serve: slice the cake with a sharp knife that's been warmed in hot water. Serve on its own or with a big spoonful of crème fraîche. On the darkest winter's day, a zap in the microwave will warm the sponge –and your soul. •

explodingbakery.com

This year, Exploding Bakery released its second cookbook, Bake It Easy, aimed at home cooks.

marquise Chocolate

Nick Hodges, executive chef of the Water's Edge at The Greenbank in Falmouth shares his recipe for a chocolatey dinner party dessert

Serves 10

You will need 10-inch non-stick cake tin

For the base

Butter 50g

Golden syrup 1 tbsp

Ginger biscuits 200g, finely crushed

For the marquise

Dark chocolate (ideally 70%) 400g

Cointreau (or liqueur of choice) 2 tsp

Eggs 5, yolks and whites separated

Unsalted

butter 150g, softened

Caster sugar 150g

Cocoa powder 6 tsp

Double cream 450ml

1 For the base: gently warm the butter and golden syrup in a pan. Once melted, stir in the crushed biscuits.

2 Press firmly into the base of the tin.

3 Chill in the fridge until set (this can be done the day before).

4 For the marquise: break the chocolate into pieces and place in a heatproof bowl with the liqueur. Set the bowl over a bain marie and stir continuously until the chocolate has just melted. Lightly beat the egg yolks, then stir them into the mix, heating gently to cook the eggs before removing the bowl from the heat.

5 In another bowl, whisk the butter and half the sugar until light and creamy. Beat in the cocoa powder.

6 In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites with the remaining sugar until stiff peaks form.

7 In a separate bowl, whisk the cream until soft peaks form.

8 Stir the melted chocolate into the butter mixture until fully combined. Gently fold in the cream, then carefully fold in the egg whites, keeping as much air in the mixture as possible.

9 Spoon the mixture onto the biscuit base, smoothing the top. Refrigerate overnight to set.

10 To remove the marquise, quickly warm the sides of the tin with a blowtorch or by dipping very briefly in hot water (do not overheat; this is just to loosen it). If you have made the marquise in a tin with a removable bottom, you can loosen the dessert by wrapping the sides of the tin with tea towels that have been dipped in hot water.

11 To serve: for a glossy finish, lightly run a chef's blowtorch over the surface, or smooth with a palette knife dipped in boiling water. Alternatively, dust with sieved cocoa powder and top with fresh raspberries.

12 Cut into slices and serve on its own, with raspberry sorbet and sauce, or ice cream and fresh berries.

greenbank-hotel.co.uk

Nick says: ‘ With its delicate ginger biscuit base, velvety chocolate filling and hint of liqueur, this is a showstopper that's as elegant as it is decadent’

Drinks

Jane reveals her pick of the pack for festive toasts and celebratory sips

JANE RAKISON'S DRINKS DIARY

a glassJoy in

Our drinks expert reveals merry South West finds for Christmas sipping

Can I share a festive secret? To me, the choice of drink matters just as much as the setting, the food, and even the company at Christmastime.

For those of us whose love of flavour and entertaining is all part of the feelgood fabric of Christmas, the difference between a good drink and a great drink is seismic.

If you're also a member of the Fussy Drinkers Club, you'll want to put the following finds on your festive drinks list this year. They'll lift the carols, improve the food and, most importantly, keep the joy and conversation flowing.

Sandford Orchards Figgy Pudding Ice Cider (15%)

Bring the festive house down with this left field cider, which has been freeze‑aged for extra flavour oomph. As the juice thaws, only the most concentrated liquid (which melts first) is used to create this luscious medium‑sweet cider.

Oak‑aged and steeped in dried fruits, with clementine, clove, star anise and caramel flavours shining through, it tastes like the very essence of Christmas.

It's super versatile to serve, whether straight up over ice alongside a groaning cheeseboard or as a cocktail ingredient. Or go rogue and add a splash to mulled wine or drizzle over vanilla ice cream.

£29.50 (500ml) sandfordorchards.co.uk

Fowey Valley Golden Sipping Rum (40%)

For instant cheeriness, whatever the weather, serve this smile‑inducing Cornish rum made in Lostwithiel using sugarcane molasses from Barbados.

An amber‑coloured, honey‑flavoured drink, it's double distilled and aged in bespoke toasted barrels from Bulgaria for extra flavour complexity.

It makes a dreamy winter‑warming drink when served neat over ice, but it can also add some serious brio to longer drinks –whether mixed with ginger ale or soda water. After a bracing walk through fields of crunchy, frosted grass, it's just the ticket when mixed with hot water, honey and lemon juice in the ultimate rum hot toddy. ››

£25 (250ml) foweyvalleycider.co.uk

AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANT

AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANT

REGIONAL INDIAN SHARING PLATES REGIONAL INDIAN SHARING PLATES

Drinks Kitchen Orange Cinchona (0%)

Grown‑up NoLo drinks are now the norm at what have traditionally been boozy occasions, and Drinks Kitchen has scored a festive‑tipple bullseye with this orange elixir.

Flavour‑wise, it pays homage to Italian aperitivi and tastes like a cross between Aperol and Campari. It's infused with bitter orange, cinchona bark and a blend of 17 herbs, including chiretta, quassia and oregano.

The classic serve is one part Orange Cinchona to five‑ish parts sparkling or tonic water. It's also good with non‑alc sparkling wine and soda for an Aperol‑esque experience, as a base for a nogroni, or topped with ginger ale.

While it pairs brilliantly with cheeses like camembert and cheddar, it also holds its own when matched with the Christmas roast.

£28 (950ml) drinkskitchen.online

Swanaford

Classic Cuvée 2018 (12%)

For peak bubbles pleasure at this time of year, it pays to save room in the fridge for a great English sparkling wine.

Swanaford's flagship fizz is a double‑gold winner. It's made using the princely trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes in the ‛traditional method’ – the slowest and most flavour‑inducing way of putting the bubbles into sparkling wine.

Light on its feet with fragrant apple and pear flavours, it's an absolute shoo‑in as an aperitif choice. The lightly toasted nuts and pastry flavours also make it a fantastic match for festive foods – from smoked trout to pork pâté. Order enough to pair with the leftovers too; this Classic Cuvée is great with turkey curry, sandwiches and salads.•

£29.95 (750ml) swanaford.com

Come home

Period and listed homes can be chilly in winter. However, there are ways to make them cosy without compromising their historical character, says Tom Coles of Mitchell & Dickinson to a beautifully warm period property

It's lovely to live in a period property, but when the wind whistles in via the window frames and up through the floorboards it can make you long for the comfort of a double‑glazed new build.

If that sounds like your home, and you need some help keeping the draughts at bay and the heat in, maybe Mitchell & Dickinson can help. The South West company has 15 years of experience crafting award‑winning insulation for period and listed properties. They've improved hundreds of homes, including a number of National Trust properties.

M&D's managing director Tom Coles (pictured, right) explains: ‘We are considered ‘the gentleman of the industry’ as we're craftspeople who take great care of the original architecture of properties while making them fit for modern life.’

1

To make your period home warmer this winter, Tom recommends three solutions

Installing secondary glazing and draught proofing . Tom says: ‘We make bespoke secondary glazing that allows sash windows to be operated as usual. We also have options for timber casement and stone mullion windows. It's virtually invisible and can improve thermal performance by up to 70 per cent. We also restore heritage window and door frames.’

2

Adding shutters. M&D's bespoke insulated shutters are crafted to fit windows perfectly (pictured left) and do a great job of keeping the room cosy in winter, as well as cooler in summer. Another option is the company's British‑made plantation shutters with louvres, which are timelessly elegant and allow for air flow while also retaining heat to keep your home warmer.

3

Insulating your home with sheep's wool. Sheep's wool has excellent thermal properties and, when used in the loft and under wooden floors, is like a woolly jumper for your home. Tom says: ‘Because you're physically closer to your floor than you are to your ceiling, you really do feel the difference.’

Call Tom and the friendly team at Mitchell & Dickinson for more information or a consultation on 01237 871127.

Harbour House in Bristol Win Sunday lunch at

There's no better way to feed both body and soul than a hearty Sunday lunch with your favourite crew. And it's particularly special when the setting is a restaurant in a converted boathouse perched on Bristol's historic floating harbour.

Harbour House is stylish, contemporary and the perfect place to while away an indulgently slow Sunday afternoon. Sit out on the terrace overlooking the water and sip on a selection of drinks from the award winning bar, or cosy up indoors. Our winners will enjoy a bottle of Britz, Harbour House's English sparkling wine, or can sample craft beers and wine from the city and the surrounding fields of Somerset.

Quality and provenance are central to the Harbour House ethos, and ingredients are carefully curated and sourced from across the South West. On the Sunday menu, choose from tender cuts of Gloucester Old Spot pork, local beef or chicken, as well as creative vegetarian alternatives served with all the

trimmings. Fluffy roasties, yorkshire puds, seasonal vegetables and a generous helping of cauliflower cheese are all included in the line up, along with lashings of rich gravy.

Those with a fondness for fish will appreciate the catch of the day with salsa verde and new potatoes, while options such as the Harbour House grilled octopus provide further piscatorial pleasures.

PRIZE A two course Sunday lunch for four people, with a bottle of Britz and a selection of nibbles to start.

QUESTION Which section of water does the restaurant overlook? hhbristol.com

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for terms and conditions. Closing date is February 1, 2026.

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Marshford Organic Foods

Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh and seasonal organic veggies, salads and herbs – many homegrown. Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of environmentally friendly and organic groceries are also available at the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered.

Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries. marshford.co.uk

Bearslake Inn

Tucked away in Dartmoor National Park, Bearslake Inn is a 13th century thatched gastropub offering a warm welcome, exceptional food and six charming rooms.

With new head chef Tom Browning at the helm, expect beautifully crafted dishes made using the finest local ingredients. Unwind in the stunning pub garden with its stream, and take the dog too – it's very pooch friendly. bearslakeinn.com

Restaurant Kensington

Visit this Exmoor restaurant to feast on exceptional local beef in a high end steak experience. Smart fish, lamb and chicken dishes, plus a range of delicious sides, also feature on a menu built around local and seasonal produce. A contemporary and memorable dining experience.

restaurantkensington.co.uk

Penventon Park Hotel

Celebrate the art of flavour in the Dining Galleries Restaurant and Copper Bar of this lovely hotel. Indulgent dinners and traditional afternoon teas are complemented by an extensive wine and cocktail list and served in an inviting atmosphere that's perfect for both casual and special occasions.

penventon.co.uk

The Queen's Arms

At this lovely dining pub on the Dorset/Somerset border, the focus is on exceptional food – from pub classics to elevated dishes – made from locally sourced ingredients. This is bolstered by a wide selection of drinks and ten luxurious guestrooms. Dogs and muddy boots encouraged!

thequeensarms.com

Heydays

Easy going, all day dining which includes seafood classics, gourmet burgers, and veggie and vegan fare – all served with the best sea views in Exmouth. Kids, dogs and walk ins all very welcome, so bring the whole gang for fresh air and good food.

heydaysdevon.co.uk

The Grey Lurcher

Browse luxury homewares and contemporary gifts at this Falmouth store. The shop stocks Annie Sloan chalk paint, luxury home fragrances from Illumens, jewellery, greetings cards, French soap and other delightful items.

 thegreylurcherfalmouth

The Chagford Inn

A delightful, award winning, family‑run, independent pub in the heart of Dartmoor which promises an excellent casual dining experience. Visit for the best of Devon's food and drink scene, showcased with creativity and authenticity.

thechagfordinn.co.uk

Find more Food Lifestyle online

Want another bite of the Food Lifestyle cherry? You'll find heaps of fresh features on our website, including travel guides, cool places to stay, recipes, interviews with tastemakers, ‛Five of the best’ features, restaurant reviews and ‛Tried and tested’ write ups. It's the insiders' guide to special finds across the South West.

food-mag.co.uk

Stockists

Here are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food‑mag.co.uk

Bath

Always Sunday Town + House

Beckford Bottle Shop

Chandos Deli

Colonna & Small's

Cortado Café

No.15 by GuestHouse Hotels

Picnic Coffee

Robun

The Fine Cheese Co.

The Queensberry Hotel

The Royal Crescent

Cornwall

Beach House Falmouth

Bedruthan Hotel & Spa

Da Bara Bakery, St Mawes

Electric Bakery

Fee's Food

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

Great Cornish Food Store

Indidog

Jo & Co Home

Kota

Padstow Farm Shop

Porthminster Beach Café

Scarlet Hotel

St Kew Farmshop & Café

St Michaels Resort

St Moritz Hotel

Strong Aldofos

The Alverton Hotel

The Greenbank Hotel

The Grey Lurcher

The Headland Hotel, Cottages & Spa

The Idle Rocks

The Old Coastguard

The Square at Porthleven

Tinkture

Trevisker's Kitchen

Trudgian Farm Shop

Devon

Ashburton Cookery School

Ashburton Deli

Ben's Farm Shop

Boringdon Hall Hotel

Bovey Castle

Darts Farm

Gidleigh Park

Glebe House

Harbour Beach Club

Lympstone Manor

Marshford Organic Foods

Rangemoors

River Cottage

Riverford Field Kitchen

The Bull Inn, Totnes

The Cheese Larder

Lilac Bakery

The Lost Kitchen

The Millbrook Inn

The Salutation Inn

Waitrose Okehampton

Dorset

Acorn Inn

Crab House Cafe

Langham Wine Estate

Majestic Wine, Dorchester

RISE Market & Bakery

Seaside Boarding House

Soulshine

Summer Lodge Hotel

SWIM

The Club House

The Three Horseshoes

The Queen's Arms

Tom's Lyme Regis

Town Mill Bakery

Waitrose Bridport

The King's Arms, Dorchester

Gloucestershire

Arc Espresso Bar + Deli

Daylesford Organic Farm

Ritual Coffee Roasters Bar & Kitchen

Scandinavian Coffee Pod

The Cheeseworks

The Slaughters Country Inn

Vinotopia

Somerset

At the Chapel, Bruton

Brown & Forrest

Chandos Deli

Dunster Living

FARA

Farrington's Farm

Flourish Food Hall

Holm

Homewood

Horrell & Horrell

Iford Manor Estate

Little Walcot

Lord Poulett Arms

MAKE

Number One Bruton

Teals

The Barrington Boar

The Bath Priory

The Cellarhand

The Cotley Inn

The Holcombe

The Manor House Inn, Ditcheat

The Talbot Inn

The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe

Vintage & Vine

White Row Farm Shop

Wiltshire

Little Rituals

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa

Majestic Wine, Devizes

Majestic Wine, Marlborough

Pythouse Kitchen, West Hatch

The Bath Arms

The Beckford Arms

The Bell & Crown

The Bradley Hare

The Dog & Gun Inn

The Fleur de Lys

The Great Bustard

The Grosvenor Arms

The Old Bell Hotel, Malmesbury

The Pembroke Arms

The Queen's Head

Timbrell's Yard, Bradford on Avon

FestivitiesatPenventonParkHotel

AwarmwelcomeawaitsyouthisChristmasinCornwall… Delveintotheextraordinary,savourdelectablecuisineandtemptingtipples,and joininthemerrimentChristmashastohold. Wehavesomuchwaitingforyou…

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