Issuu

Summer This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

Images: Guy Harrop

ne of the reasons the team and

curation of gorgeous finds to turn your

I enjoy creating Food Lifestyle

back garden into a bohemian sanctuary.

is the opportunity to curate a

She also luxuriated in the tropical garden

collection of the most special experiences to be had each season in the South West. Some of the finds in this issue will have you blinking in surprise that they're even in the UK – we're looking at you, Indian pool house at Castle Trematonia and Italianate gardens at Iford Manor. Rosanna, photographer Guy and I had an incredible day at Iford Manor, meeting owners Marianne and William and wandering – jaws hanging – around

spa at St Michaels Resort in Cornwall. Abi's collection of cool places to stay with amazing outside spaces, and her road trip of Trencherman's Award-winning restaurants, are further fabulous reasons to go exploring. As you can tell, we're swooning over the exotic and the luscious this issue. I hope you get to try some of the experiences for yourself. See you in the autumn.

their gardens. The exquisite enclave is the closest you'll get to a trip to Tuscany without having to cross the Channel. I had a similar ‘Can this be the UK?’ experience at Beach House Falmouth this issue, except its vibe is more ‘lunch by the Med’. To discover further transportative experiences, read about Jane's fabulous French lunch in Bristol and her trip to Stroud and its cool satellite villages. Rosanna went on a health reset at Yeotown in Devon and also visited the sparkling shores of Carbis Bay – like an overseas mini-break but near St Ives.

Jo Rees Editorial director and founder

Those looking to create their own slice of paradise at home will enjoy Selena's

Salt Media browser food-mag.co.uk  foodlifestylesw

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Jo at Iford Manor Kitchen and Iford Manor Garden. Read all about it on page 18

This

issue

F E AT U R E S 8. Ten things to do this season A few of our fave finds for summer.

W E E K E N D

C O O K I N G

73. Summer garden feast The vegmeisters at Riverford share plant-based recipes for summer.

18. Tastemakers: William and Marianne Cartwright‑Hignett The custodians of Iford Manor Estate invite us into their astonishing garden.

24. Bite size: Rich Townsend

D R I N K S 82. Jane Rakison's drinks diary Our drinks expert picks three serious ciders for blue-sky drinking.

We talk salsify and spa treatments with the head chef of The Queen's Arms, Corton Denham.

28. The curation: Suntrap sanctuary Create a bohemian paradise in your back garden.

32. Hit the road Buckle up for a taste of the restaurants crowned winners at the Trencherman's Awards 2025.

E AT I N G

O U T

39. Restaurant reviews We visit Lapin, Walter's on the Beach, The Ilchester Arms, The View and

84. Five of the best: coffee shops in Cornwall Great spots for liquid-gold-level caffeination.

89. Summer spritz Be transported to the shores of Andalucía with this zesty cocktail.

M O R E 97. Directory 98. Stockists

Beach House Falmouth.

T R AV E L 52. Cool places to stay Summer staycations with fabulous outdoor spaces.

58. The spa inspector: St Michaels Resort Cornwall's coastal spa with a touch of the Tropics.

62. Tried and tested: Yeotown A transformational detox experience in north Devon.

66. Weekender: Stroud & surrounds Spend a long weekend in the Cotswolds hotspot and its swanky satellite villages.

90. Win! Win a Cornish beach retreat, a wellness break at Boringdon Hall Hotel, summer sips from Drinks Kitchen, and a luxurious gourmet getaway in Cornwall.

Savour classic cuisine on our sun-drenched terrace, using the finest local ingredients. Dine with us in the Cornish capital.

t he a lver to n .c o.u k | 01872 276 633 | Truro, T R 1 1ZQ

Feast day and night on the f iinest Cornish cuisine

greenbank-hotel.co.uk | 01326 312440 | Falmouth, Harbourside, TR11 2SR

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Editorial Abi Manning, Melissa Morris, Jane Rakison, Jo Rees, Rosanna Rothery, Selena Young Design Christopher Mulholland Publishing Charlotte Cummins, Tamsin Powell Accounts Richard Bailey Commercial/advertising Nick Cooper, Claire Fegan, Jeni Smith - 01271 859182 Publisher Salt Media -ideas@saltmedia.co.uk, 01271 859299, saltmedia.co.uk Cover image Castle Trematonia by Unique Homestays browser food-mag.co.uk

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Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports South West independent businesses. Copyright The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. Disclaimer We choose the businesses included in Food Lifestyle features based on editorial integrity. Sometimes, inclusions will be handpicked from clients with whom we have a commercial relationship. While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food Lifestyle cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. Print We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent-free inks on FSC®-certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice. Published 2025 ISSN 2977-5582 (print) ISSN 2977-5590 (online).

10 Things to do this season 8

1. Take afternoon tea on an island St Michael's Mount (stmichaelsmount.co.uk) is a stunning tidal island off the Cornish coast that's joined to the mainland by a cobbled causeway. Visitors flock to the mount for its historical significance, subtropical gardens and ancient castle, but we think afternoon tea on the island at Harbour Loft restaurant is just as big a draw. After arriving by boat or walking the length of the causeway, wander through the cobbled streets and explore the castle before sitting down to a classic teatime experience. The menu reflects local and seasonal ingredients - although homemade scones are a year-round non-negotiable. Vegan and vegetarian afternoon teas are also available, as is a kids' version with a giant heart jelly and raspberry ripple cake.

2. Celebrate the summer solstice at Sacred Grounds Exeter's buzzy brunch locale Sacred Grounds (sacredgrounds.co) hosts seasonal events around each equinox and solstice, celebrating the turn of the season with its favourite makers and artists. Its 2025 Summer Fayre takes place on the evening of June 19 when McCoys Arcade will be taken over by local artisans and visitors. Swing by for stalls from the likes of herbalist Honeysuckle Herbal and Feral Flowers, live music from Alex Johnstone, cocktails from the SG team and plant-based street food. Tickets aren't necessary; everyone's welcome at this soulful community event in the atrium of the arcade.

3. Get the scoop on ice‑cream collabs We love natural ice-cream makers Brickell's (brickellsicecream.co.uk) in Somerset for its ices made in the French custard style. Only milk from the family's Westcombe Dairy, fresh double cream from Gloucestershire, free-range egg yolks from Clarence Court and British beet sugar are used – no stabilisers, emulsifiers, preservatives or anything else. So when we heard they were crafting a series of collab ice creams with other quality food producers, we were somewhat excited. For a taste of the new limited-edition scoops, try the Malted Landrace Cookie made in partnership with Bath's cool crumbsmiths Landrace Bakery. Order via the website for delivery

Image: Ed Schofield

to anywhere in the UK.

4. Pimp your veg box Veg boxes are becoming ever more quirky and diverse. Some growers, like Vallis Farm (vallisfarm.co.uk) in Somerset, top up their delivery of chemical-free no-dig veggies with flowers, herbs, plants and preserves. It's a great way to support local growers while receiving a box that captures a moment in nature in all its glorious forms.

5. Dive into an immersive cooking experience Cornish retreat Nancarrow Farm (nancarrowfarm.co.uk) near Truro is hosting an intimate two-day immersive cooking experience on June 26–27. Learn to create the farm's favourite feast dishes and master the art of breadmaking and butter smoking before producing a summery starter, sharing-style main and delicious dessert. Leave with new foodie friends, improved kitchen skills, a Nancarrow goodie bag and the heads-up on future events at

Image: Stephanie Osmond

the organic farm and feasting venue.

Image: Tessa Bricknell; Model: Florence Seck

6. Invest in a joyful blanket For a gorgeous piece of art you can wear, sit on and snuggle under, look no further than the beautiful blankets from Emma Carlisle (emmacarlisle.com). The former children's book illustrator is often found drawing in rural locations in Devon and Cornwall, and her nature sketches are immortalised in one-of-akind tapestry throws. Use them as a smart picnic blanket by day and a cosy extra layer once the sun goes down.

7. Cool down with water kefir Looking for a sophisticated NoLo sip for summer? Check out the award-winning living fermented water kefir from PiQi (piqilife.com) in Devon. It's delicious, dairy-free, caffeine-free and crammed with probiotic cultures. PiQi is brewed in small batches using organic ingredients and water kefir grains. Try it in flavours such as butterfly pea, and

Image: Nicholas Young

grapefruit and cardamom.

Image: Guy Harrop

8. Vote in the Food Lifestyle Awards 2025 For over a decade, we've championed the South West's best independent food, drink, hospitality and lifestyle businesses through our reader awards. They're an opportunity for you to vote for the businesses and individuals you think are extra special. Show them some love by casting your votes for this year's awards (voting opens June 2). The winners will be announced at Harbour House in Bristol on September 15. 14

9. Go wild with summer blooms Get creative with the colourful blooms from your summer garden. Take inspo from Devon author and founder of Botanical Tales

(botanicaltales.com)

Bex Partridge. Her latest book Crafting with Flowers (published by Quadrille) reveals a range of

Image: Laura Edwards

projects that capture the season.

WINNER BEST BAR

GUIDE 2023

‘Just a delightful place to be’ Jay Rayner, The Observer

10. Live it up at Lympstone Check out the lively summer schedule of events at Lympstone Manor (lympstonemanor.co.uk). The sunny season is filled with delicious themed happenings, including Greek Summer Nights, the annual pool party, a seafood supper with shanty band, and an evening with Michael Caines exploring

the

Lympstone

Image: Elliot White

Image: Matt Round

Manor estate wines.

TA S T E M A K E RS

Marianne and William

Cartwright-Hignett The custodians of Iford Manor Estate invite Rosanna Rothery into their timeless garden paradise Photographs by Guy Harrop

his year marks 60 years of the Cartwright-Hignett family owning the idyllic Iford Manor Estate near

Bradford-on-Avon, on the Wiltshire-Somerset border. Now next-gen custodians William (who grew up on the estate) and wife Marianne are pouring their energies into reinvigorating it for generations to come. Iford's story may stretch back to the Domesday Book but William and Marianne refuse to take a fusty approach to the estate. For them, history is about creating a living heritage that's vibrant and engaging, so they're taking the lead from Iford itself: a melting pot of eras, styles and influences. ‘We are very protective and respectful of our heritage, but try to do things that are utterly relevant to people today,’ says William. ‘My problem with places that preserve the past in aspic is that, with every year that goes by, that place becomes less relevant to the people who visit it.’ ››

‘A sense of timelessness and tranquility’ 20

Immersive odyssey

Its magical effect can, in large part, be

The pleasures of sitting and contemplating

traced to architect and garden landscaper

in a beautiful garden or strolling through

Harold Peto who lived at Iford between 1899

an evocative landscape have resonated with

and 1933. As well as designing for royalty,

people throughout the centuries. And it's

aristocracy and tycoons, he was a treasure

just as captivating for the flux of visitors

hunter who travelled the globe acquiring

(capped daily at 250 to preserve the sense of

rare plants and eclectic antiquities. The

tranquility) who visit Iford today.

result is an enchanting sanctuary imbued with a beauty that echoes previous times

Secret garden

and far‑off places. Fragments of Italianate

It's no surprise to discover that some

architecture and statuary, tumbling wisteria and roses, and fragrant wafts of rosemary

scenes in the 2020 film The Secret Garden, starring Colin Firth and Julie Walters,

and lavender invoke nostalgia.

were filmed at Iford.

‘People experience a calm in the garden which is

Ascending the landscaped hill, visitors find

harder and harder to find in today's crazy world,’ says Marianne. ‘They tell us it's like stepping

themselves in a secluded haven of romantic

into another world: you never know precisely

Roman, Italian and Japanese architecture

what country you are in – and you're not quite

which seamlessly merges with curated

sure which century either.’

gardens and magnificent views of rolling farmland. Daisies and campanula peep

Nose‑to‑tail dining

through stone steps, giving visitors the sense

In line with modern visitors' requirements,

they've stumbled upon a secret spot.

the couple have also created a beautiful

Peto's magic

daytime restaurant (which recently won

William and Marianne took over the Grade

Best Newcomer at the Trencherman's Awards 2025) and supper club. Here, visitors

I‑registered garden in 2018 and, with head

can feast on rustic dishes crafted from

gardener Steve Lannin, have embarked upon

ingredients grown, reared or foraged on the

a ten‑year renewal plan to maintain this very special place.

thousand‑acre estate.

‘There are very few places like Iford where you

Heading is

can really experience complete peace,’ says

Iford

Manor

Kitchen

Michelin‑star‑experienced

chef

Matthew Briddon. At Iford, he puts his

Marianne. ‘There's a sense of timelessness and

twist on the kind of recipes, skills and

deep tranquility.’

crafts (like fermentation) that would have been practised in rural Wiltshire in times gone by. Dishes utilise beef and lamb grazed in the valley, and veg harvested from the estate's walled garden. ››

‘Being able to incorporate a nose-to-tail and root-to-leaf food offering is amazing because it ties into the farm and everything we do with sustainability and wildlife in the valley,’ says Marianne. ‘It's a fantastic way for people to experience Iford and enjoy its authenticity.’

A bit of a fraud In some ways, Iford is a curious place; nothing is quite what it seems. The manor house, where William and Marianne live with their two children, isn't actually a manor at all: it's a 15th-century former wool factory, cleverly concealed behind a 1720s facade. Many of its features, in themselves authentic, have been added at various points to create an olde-worlde effect.

‘Like Like stepping into another world’ Future plans Changes are always afoot and the couple are

‘The whole thing is a bit of a fraud,’ laughs

poised to take over two local pubs: Cross

William. ‘Iford is oozing in history but it is an

Guns in Avoncliff and The Inn at Freshford.

unclear history. Peto built on that and alluded

William has been going to both since he was

to bits of the story: if details were true, that was

a youngster and is keen to preserve them as

lovely. If they weren't, then the imagination

thriving hubs in the community.

was just as good.’

Managing Iford's evolution as a visitor

Many heritage destinations are proud to be

experience while simultaneously bringing up a

bastions of the past but Iford is constantly

young family results in a demanding schedule

evolving. Innovations introduced by William

for the couple. Ultimately, though, they believe

and Marianne include a jazz festival, regular

it's worth the effort.

concerts, supper clubs based around sumptuous tasting menus, and behind-the-scenes tours with head gardener Steve.

‘If you inherit a historic estate, it's not a job,’ says Marianne. ‘It's a passion and a lifestyle. It has to be driven by you and you have to love it. If you

Everything has the personal touch. William

don't, it won't survive. It's like having a wonderful

leads an intimate Champagne tour of the

grandparent who is entirely dependent on you –

garden where he reveals his parents' vision

but who loves you back enormously.’

for rescuing the gardens and the secret history of some extremely rare and unusual plants.

•

Images: David Watts

Clockwise from left: coffee choux buns in the dining room; Rich at the pass, lunch in the bar

BIT E

S IZ E

Rich

Townsend Meet the head chef of The Queen's Arms in Corton Denham, Somerset, and get his pit-stop recommendations

This is your ﬁrst head chef role. What have you brought to the pub? The Queen's Arms has always been a food-led pub

Which other chefs do you rate?

that appeals both to locals and visitors looking for

I'm a huge fan of Adam Byatt and Marcus Wareing.

London-level food, and I've continued that.

Both have a classic, refined style with great

I've been here three years now. I actually left the

attention to detail. And, like me, they honour the

food industry during lockdown as I found I'd lost

British seasons and ingredients. To celebrate being

my passion, but the pub was struggling to find a

awarded our second AA rosette we're going to

chef so I did a few shifts to help out.

Adam Byatt's restaurant, Trinity, in London.

Straight away, I could see the potential and it

Which ingredients are you most passionate about?

reignited my love of cooking. I wanted it to succeed and felt I could make a difference. So it's been

Vegetables – it's the variety that each season

exciting to have the opportunity to put my stamp

brings. I enjoy the challenge of creating dishes

on dishes and develop a menu that celebrates

to reflect the time of year, and vegetables are

British seasonality and produce.

so versatile. I love hispi cabbage and how it can

It's working well and we were delighted when the

take on other flavours. I also like to use more

AA awarded us a second rosette recently.

unusual veggies like crosne and salsify, as well as underutilised ones like swede.

The pub is unusual in that everything's made from scratch like at a ﬁne‑dining restaurant ... That was my intention from the moment I joined.

Beyond veggies, what local ingredients will be on the menu this summer?

Why buy a burger bun when you can make your own?

I'll be sourcing dayboat British fish from Kingfisher in Brixham. The quality of the fish is always

I don't like food waste, so we make beef-dripping

excellent, responsibly sourced and MSC certified.

mayo using the roast-beef dripping from Sunday

I like that it started as a family business and has

lunch, and turn the skins of leftover potatoes (from

a team that have been in the fishing industry

making mash) into crispy skins which we serve

for generations. ››

with a spicy chilli dip – they're a big hit. As a chef, it's rewarding to know you've made every element of a dish, and done it properly.

You've started doing some events at the pub ... At Fish Over Fire our chefs cook a five‑course seafood tasting menu over a wood‑fired grill.

We're situated close to where Montgomery's

Highlights include scallops in wild‑garlic

Cheddar, Westcombe Cheddar and Wookey Hole

butter cooked in the shell, and grilled mackerel

Cheddar are made, and we serve the cheeses on

with beetroot, horseradish and dill. We can't wait for the next one!

rotation with homemade sausage rolls, piccalilli

The pub is a bit of an insider's find for those

is made in‑house.

and beer‑pickled onions. Even the baguette

travelling on the A303. What are your personal menu recommendations for those stopping by?

Those looking for a more elevated dining experience

The menu always includes popular pub classics

the à la carte menu.

when breaking their journey will appreciate

like cider and tarragon battered fish and chips, and seasonal salads and sandwiches, but my personal

What don't people know about you?

recommendation is our ploughman's which is a

I used to build tennis courts and I love playing

celebration of local produce.

footie with my two boys. More of a secret is that I enjoy getting a pampering spa treatment from my wife, who's a trained therapist. thequeensarms.com

Clockwise from left: setting the scene; Rich outside the pub with sous chef JP; Cornish hake with smoked bacon sauce

•

Suntrap sanctuary T HE

CU RAT I ON

Create a bohemian paradise in your own garden with Selena Young's pick of the South West's best artisanal pieces for outdoor spaces

Rocking chairs Quality furniture is the bread and butter of any outdoor living space. To ensure your table and chairs both announce your good taste and stand the test of time, consider an investment set from Devon's lifestyle and homeware brand Nkuku (nkuku.com). Made from natural, reclaimed and recycled materials by skilled craftspeople, the pieces are hardwearing and Pinterest-worthy stylish.

Throw some shade Sculptors‑turned‑designers Charlie and Katy Napier of Sunbeam Jackie (sunbeamjackie.com) have used their artistic backgrounds to reinterpret parasols as items that offer more than just the sweet relief of shade. Floral, striped, patchwork, funky, pared‑back or tasselled, each one is unique and crafted using collectable fabrics from the likes of Liberty, William Morris and Marimekko.

Set the scene

It's like hanging a piece of art in

Calling time on ye olde plastic dinner

your

set? It may have served you well in the

garden

that

also

protects

past but feasting alfresco doesn't have

you from the sun.

to mean compromising on tableware or sustainability. Check

out

The

Village

Pottery

(thevillagepottery.co.uk) near Bristol, which is run by a gang of pro potters who supply upscale restaurants with attractive ceramics. Alongside dinner sets, they make fabulous serving bowls, wine coolers, pitcher jugs and butter dishes which'll level up your tablescape

Image: Jack Johns

Image: Brett Charles

and can be redeployed inside later. ››

Grill power In the market for a new simple‑to‑use grill to take your outdoor cooking next level? Let us introduce Kamado Joe's (kamadojoe.com) Konnected Joe, a cutting‑edge ceramic charcoal grill and smoker that can be controlled from your phone. Yep, the days of having to babysit the barbecue all evening are over. Its range of applications (from high‑blast searing to low‑and‑slow cooking) makes it a cinch to achieve restaurant‑quality results. Ignite the charcoal with the push of a button, set the desired cooking temperature via the app and let the Kontrol Fan do the rest. Play with the automatic and classic mode to find what works best for you and relish how deliciously simple it can be to fire

Image: Katy Goutefangea

up food for a crowd.

Join the tribe Granted it's a bit bougie, but if you really want your outdoor area to stand out from the identikit IKEA garden standard, throw down a new or vintage Moroccan rug. Et voila! Envy among pals evoked. Visit A New Tribe (anewtribe.co.uk) in Bristol to see and feel the kind of ethically sourced Berber rugs the team hand‑select in Morocco.

Patch perfect Whether they're bundled together to create tents for little ones to play in and shelter from the sun, or used by everyone in the fam to huddle under as the temperature dips in the evening, these Nordic‑inspired quilts from Projektityyny (projektityyny.com) are as beautiful as they are practical. The small‑run creations (bedding, canopies and tablecloths are also available) are a modern interpretation of age‑old textile traditions that encompass patchwork, yarn‑dye weaving, cross stitch and embroidery. Exquisite attention to detail ensures each Dorset‑made product is as visually

Image: Joya Berrow

stunning as it is pillowy soft.

•

Hit the road Take a road trip across the South West for a taste of the restaurants crowned winners at the Trencherman's Awards 2025. The guide's editor Abi Manning reveals the unmissable stops

Dartmoor National Park

ot only does the South West deliver glittering coastlines, rocky moorland, vast wetlands and woodland, but it's

also home to exceptional restaurants that showcase the ingredients produced in this varied landscape. The best of these are included in the Trencherman's Guide. Each year the Trencherman's Awards celebrates the crème de la crème of that rarified group of restaurants. Up for visiting some of these authentic, creative and innovative venues that utilise the South West's larder in unique dining experiences? Of course you are. Buckle up.

Somerset We'll begin by zipping over to Homewood, the charmingly eclectic Georgian country house that played host to the Trencherman's Awards 2025. You may not have thought giant topiary teddy bears and help-yourself pick'n'mix could go hand in hand with sheer luxury, but Homewood hits the sweet spot between opulence and outré. The reception area is brimming with clocks, walls are decked out in eye-catching art, multiple chandeliers drip from ceilings and a delightful spa invites basking. In Olio Restaurant, Mediterranean-inspired fare infused with local flavours can be enjoyed indoors or alfresco in a dining dome. Snaffle a handful of sweeties for the onward journey; we're only heading a couple of minutes down the road. Iford Manor Kitchen (Best Trencherman's Newcomer) sits alongside Grade I-listed Iford Manor Gardens. The setting may be historic but the food experience – led by chef (and master pickler, preserver, charcutier and firecooking expert) Matthew Briddon – is bang up to date. Much of what ends up in the dishes has been reared, grown or foraged on the estate. (Meet owners William and Marianne Cartwright-Hignett on page 18.) ›› 33

Image: Guy Harrop

The Chagford Inn; Homewood; The Clockspire; Queen of Cups; Osip

Image: Tom Asteriades

Image: Matt Austin

Image: Guy Harrop Image: Dave Watts

Clockwise from centre: The Farm Table;

Travelling towards the Somerset Levels leads to Queen of Cups, where Ayesha Kalaji (Best Trencherman's Chef) has garnered a devoted foodie fanclub for her cooking. A pub in the heart of Glastonbury isn't the first place you'd expect to find some of the best Middle Eastern food in the country, but this restaurant delivers delightfully creative dishes that draw on Ayesha's Jordanian heritage and French training. You may recognise her from MasterChef: The Professionals and Great British Menu.

This spot will redefine any preconceptions you may have about farmshop dining. Food grown on the farm and sourced from artisan producers is cooked over charcoal or in the wood‑fired oven: home‑reared saddleback pork chops are brined for two days before they hit the pan, while belly pork gets the low'n'slow

Next, head east to Somerset's hip hangout

sous vide treatment before being crisped. Pair

of Bruton and the suitably cool Osip. The

the carefully crafted dishes with wines from

restaurant stole the Creativity and Innovation

Darts' Pebblebed Vineyard or go off‑piste and

award for its contemporary take on the

sample unusual ciders and ales.

farm‑to‑table experience.

The tour continues with a jaunt onto Dartmoor

Devon‑born chef Merlin Labron‑Johnson is

and a visit to The Chagford Inn, which was

obsessed with the integrity of ingredients, and

crowned Best Trencherman's Pub.

produce from the restaurant's farm dictates the ever‑changing menu. It's an expression of the Somerset landscape – and every member of the restaurant team is also on the gardening rota.

There's excellent eating to be found behind the terracotta facade of this cosy rural inn. Chef‑owner Ollie Vernon not only crafts a very decent plate of food, but he's also committed to

The finale of the Somerset spree takes us to

sourcing ingredients from farmers who share

the winner of Best Front of House Team: The

his values around regenerative agriculture and

Clockspire in Sherborne.

sustainability, and the combined result is lovely.

This is like stepping into a bygone era, thanks to The Clockspire's 19th‑century

Cornwall

school‑building

vaulted

Head to the north Cornwall coast and Padstow

oak‑beamed ceilings, polished stone floors

for the penultimate destination on this

and candelabras. In the two‑AA‑rosette

fine‑dining foray.

setting

with

restaurant, head chef Luke Bryant serves elegant modern British dishes.

The first stop is to Paul Ainsworth at No6. Paul was the recipient of the award for Special Contribution, an accolade that celebrates

Devon

those who've made a significant impact on

The first stop across the border is to uber‑popular food emporium Darts Farm near Topsham, and more specifically its restaurant The Farm Table which won Best Bar List.

the region's hospitality industry. No6 is the jewel in the crown of the chef‑restaurateur's Cornish collection. Intimate, romantic and delivering impeccable standards of service, it sets a gastronomic benchmark. ››

Image: Guy Harrop

Clockwise from top left: Paul Ainsworth at No6; Barnaby's; Paul Ainsworth with the guide

A short distance away is Barnaby's (Best

Our final stop sees us winging to the south

Trencherman's Restaurant), housed at

coast and St Michaels Resort in Falmouth

Trevibban Mill Vineyard. The sister site

(Best Trencherman's Hotel). It's the

to popular Prawn on the Lawn specialises

perfect place to recuperate after a full‑on

in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean

gourmet tour, and its tropical gardens, two

dishes. Almost all the produce used is

restaurants and spa (read all about it on

sourced from nearby farms, fishermen and

page 58) deliver a lush experience. Culinary

growers, or from the team's polytunnel

delights can be enjoyed in the nautical

in St Kew. The kitchen crew make their

Brasserie on the Bay – or scoff healthy

own charcuterie, serve beers from the

casual dishes at sister restaurant Nourish.

microbrewery next door, and offer a sparkling pink Pinot Noir wine grown on the vines surrounding the restaurant.

•

This year's awards took place at Homewood

Take a look at what went down on the night,

near Bath on March 24. The ceremony

and find out more about the winners and

and supper were attended by the movers

finalists by scanning the QR code below.

and shakers of the South West food and

Discover the South West's most exceptional restaurants with the Trencherman's Guide edition 32, available from trenchermans‑guide.co.uk

hospitality world, including the region's leading chefs, restaurateurs, hoteliers and food and drinks businesses. A multi‑course dinner was prepared by chefs Ben Palmer of The Sardine Factory in Looe, Jamie Forman of Homewood, Ayesha Kalaji of Queen of Cups in Glastonbury and Nicholas Balfe of Holm in South Petherton

Image: Guy Harrop

(pictured below at Homewood).

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Experience head chef Jamie McCallum's exquisite dishes in sharing platters and small plates at The Painswick hotel’s new restaurant SAUCE, in the Cotswolds. The boutique destination blends countryside cool with warm hospitality, complementing the relaxed ﬁne dining.

at The Painswick Culinary thrills with local charm

thepainswick.co.uk

Eating out Image: Adam Sargent Image: Matt Austin

The Food Lifestyle team dine at the South West's most interesting restaurants to reveal where's worth visiting

Beach House Falmouth, page 48

E AT I N G

OU T

Lapin

Jane Rakison visits the new bistro bringing authentic Gallic gastronomy to Bristol Harbour

What's the draw? Gloriously Gallic flavours in a Bristol indie hotspot. Co-owners Dan O'Regan and Jack Briggs-Horan's new restaurant (sister to Bristol stalwart Bank) is a cosy, easy-going find that's just as good for a light(ish) lunch as a long and decadent dinner.

A confit duck leg with spring cassoulet, kielbasa and

Inside, it combines sage-coloured walls, wooden

tomato was bronzed and crisp on top, while smoky

tables and a wall of wine bottles with a blackboard

sausage folded into the white creamy cassoulet

chalked up with a competitive prix fixe menu and

delivered a fantastic contrast of flavour and texture.

the wine of the week (a Gigondas on this visit and

Our other main of gnocchi parisienne with roscoff

served from a magnum, obvs). Lapin has all the

onions and soubise (one of two veggie mains on the

hallmarks of an authentic French bistro, except it's

menu) featured golden gnocchi pebbles and glossy

slap bang in the middle of Bristol.

shards of onion on a rich soubise.

Who's cooking? As at Bank, Jack Briggs-Horan is

A side of super-smooth pomme purée with an

executive chef. For him, Lapin is a chance to revisit

obscene ratio of butter to potato (and which was

the flavours of his childhood family holidays across

further pimped with the addition of Rollright cheese)

the Channel. Working alongside him is senior sous

dutifully met all expectations of the French classic.

Will Holliday, who's cooked at Bulrush, L'Enclume

With a quick tug on the waistband to ensure it could

and Little French.

accommodate dessert, we capitulated to pain perdu

Carole Petitbois delivers light-touch yet highly

with wedges of sticky apple and a scoop of ice

effective service as restaurant manager, and is the

cream, and a Saint Emilion au chocolat. The latter

palate behind the excellent wine list.

was served in a terrine-like format with the bitter

What to order? The savoury menu includes seven

chocolate ganache contrasting deliciously with

starters, five mains, a further three sharing mains

layers of crushed amaretti biscuit.

and a very reasonable rotating prix fixe for £29,

Need to know Marvel at, and order from, the almost

so there's plenty of choice.

exclusively French wine list, which may well be the best in the region.

Our starter of Brixham scallops with lobster bisque was served in the shell. Beautifully cooked and

The 60 wines are available by the 125ml glass, carafe

scattered with golden breadcrumbs and vibrant

or bottle, on a list grouped by style to encourage

fresh herbs, it was the perfect modestly sized dish to

guests to broaden their horizons. If you're still

try alongside the ultra-decadent soufflé suissesse.

unsure, ask for Carole.

The wobbly gruyère-loaded mound swimming in a moat of creamy chive-flecked cheese was heavenly. Although the sharing main of roast duck à l'orange

Lapin

with braised chicory looked like the must-order,

Unit 14, Cargo 2, Museum Street,

we resisted in order to try two separate dishes.

Bristol, BS1 6ZA lapinbristol.co.uk

E ATIN G

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Walter's on the Beach

Images: Kieran Brimson

Rosanna Rothery steps into the moody glamour of dinner at Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate

What's the draw? For a dose of dark glamour at the seaside, it's hard to beat the drama of dinner at Walter's on the Beach at Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate. Step out of the bright seascape of the beachside terrace and cross the threshold into a space where you're cloaked in soft lighting and luxury. The subdued hues allow you to blend into the background and let your hair down – unlike those bright restaurants where you feel fully on display.

The pièce de résistance, though, was a fun dessert

From its funky soundtrack and gleaming

of “Eggs and Soldiers”. On opening the top of a wooden box, we discovered ceramic egg cups filled

cocktail bar to a menu crammed with culinary

with a trio of chocolate, vanilla and tonka bean

surprises, everything at Walter's screams ‘let the

crème brûlées. A drawer below revealed fingers of

good times roll’.

buttery shortbread biscuit.

Who's cooking? Executive chef Andrew Houghton has

Need to know The Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate offers an

created a menu of well-executed internationally

array of accommodation, but the most spectacular

inspired dishes, which includes intriguing options for those who like to inject a little je ne sais quoi

are its lodges with direct access to the private beach.

into their dining experience.

Artfully built into the hillside, with roofs designed to

What to order? Before sitting down to dine, don't

blend into their surroundings, each spacious lodge is named after the G7 country hosted there in 2021

miss the theatrical experience of perching at

(we stayed in the Canada Suite). The three-storey

the bar and watching mixologist Ion Ghiba craft

set-up was decorated in soothingly luxe neutrals

some of the best cocktails outside London. He

and natural textures and provided sweeping views

took my Porn Star Martini favourite and swapped the traditional passionfruit for apricot, pineapple

across Carbis Bay from its trio of chic bedrooms.

and pomegranate, resulting in a festival of

The experience concluded in the garden hot tub,

fruitiness in each sip.

sipping fizz under the stars, before turning in

The kitchen team have a similar penchant for

and being lulled to sleep by the sound of waves lapping the shore. A delivery of Cornish meats,

delivering the unexpected. So, while it's possible to

salmon, cheese and pastries the next morning set

play it safe and opt for surefire classics, you could

us up perfectly for the mile-long stroll along the

follow your curiosity and choose more playful picks.

South West Coast Path (it passes just outside the

One starter, for instance, was fresh lobster

door) to St Ives.

sandwiched in a giant macaron. Having only experienced the French confection stuffed with ganache or buttercream, it was intriguing

Walter's on the Beach

to see it paired successfully with the briny

Carbis Bay Estate, Carbis Bay, St Ives, TR26 2NP

sweetness of shellfish.

carbisbayhotel.co.uk

Mains provided a further cultural mash-up: the light and delicate flavours of ChalkStream trout paired with the Japanese notes of an umami-rich bonita sauce, encased in the puff pastry of a British wellington.

E AT I N G

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The Ilchester Arms

Jane Rakison snapped up the chance to visit Dorset's most promising new dining pub

Paul and Ariana

What's the draw? The opportunity to visit the place that's about to be on everyone's lips, but before they've even heard of it. The Ilchester Arms in the quaint village of Symondsbury has been taken over by head chef Paul Brinicombe and his partner (and front-of-house pro) Ariana Rut, who've turned it

Being so close to the coast, the devilled whole

into something rather special.

Brixham mackerel with new-potato salad and

The pair have given the 16th-century village pub

green salad was a must-order. Soft chunks of

a shiny new makeover that's way more than just a

flavourful fish were the perfect foil for the nicely

lick of paint (although they've done that too). The

pitched heat of the vermilion sauce. The salad was

pub's reinvention centres around locally sourced,

well seasoned, with aromatic snippets of chives

pared-back, ingredient-driven food, which is served

running through. Another main of tender Devon

in a building split between a pub and a dining room.

duck breast saw the poultry served with pickled

The menu is chalked up on the wall and dishes

rhubarb, which paired well with the meat, and

gratifyingly crossed off when sold out.

roasted jerusalem artichokes.

Tables in the casual dining room are furnished

Puddings were a mix of classic and inventive. Crepes

with white paper tablecloths (the smart kind),

suzette was tempting, but we plumped for the more

crisp cotton napkins, unfussy cutlery and

unusual honey toast with stewed plums. A block of

cute-but-not-too-cute miniature coloured vases

toasted brioche – marbled with deliciously sticky

filled with fresh cottage flowers. It's grid-friendly

dark patches of honey – was moreishly crunchy

to be sure, but authentic in equal measure.

on the outside and chewy on the inside. It was

Who's cooking? Chef-owner Paul is originally from

blanketed in a bright plum sauce and served with

Birmingham, although his cheﬃng career has

a dollop of chantilly cream to cut its sweetness.

largely been based in the South West – including

Need to know The drinks menu is as interesting as

a stint as head chef at The Royal Clarence Hotel.

the food. Natural wines feature on the wine list

His culinary inspiration stems from a childhood

while a range of bespoke cocktails - some of which

spent in his grandfather's veg patch and watching

can be turned into NoLo drinks - have been designed

his grandmother pickling produce, so it's no

for the pub by UK mixologist supremo Jack Wareing.

surprise his contemporary food heroes are ingredient hounds Jeremy Lee at Quo Vadis and

The Ilchester Arms

Fergus Henderson of St John.

1 The Buildings, Symondsbury,

What to order? Cheffed-up pub classics rub along

Bridport, DT6 6HD

nicely with Paul's more original creations on a

ilchesterarmssymondsbury.co.uk

menu that's easy on the eye. Dishes arrived beautifully dressed yet without fanfare: a grilled asparagus starter with white bean hummus and pesto consisted of a pillowy soft bed of the dip with whole grilled asparagus on top, adorned with generous dollops of chunky pesto.

E AT I N G

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The View

Abi Manning lives the high life on the eighth floor of Courtyard Exeter Sandy Park

What's the draw? We probably all hold some preconceptions about international-chain-hotel restaurants: the general view being they're overpriced and serve inferior food compared with small local eateries. However, those assumptions need reconsidering when it comes to The View on the

We began with house-made Guinness and treacle

eighth floor of Courtyard by Marriott at Sandy Park.

sourdough boules. They proved the perfect tools for

It's well worth a spot on your list of must-visit

swiping every last drop of the rich saffron and garlic

Exeter restaurants.

sauce in a starter of flaky smoked haddock and St Austell

The team who've taken over the site are determined

Bay mussels. Another starter of braised pork belly

to break the hotel-dining mould and have cultivated

provided a deliciously hot-salty-sour moment with

a family-run restaurant vibe in this sleek penthouse

its puffs of crackling, the punch of sweet chilli kimchi,

location. Chef Matt Mason (Dad) crafts the beautiful

and tangy pickled cucumber.

food for which he's long been recognised in the area,

The dishes' attractive simplicity reveals the

Joanne (Mum) runs front of house as senior maitre d',

confidence of an experienced chef who doesn't need

while restaurant manager/sommelier Charlie (son)

to over-embellish for the sake of it, but gives carefully

impresses with his wine knowledge. It's combined

chosen ingredients room to impress. This was

with warm hospitality and a passion for Devon's

especially evident in a main course of Creedy Carver

quality produce.

duck breast with duck-leg bon bon, seville oranges

As for that eponymous view, there's no getting away

and chicory jam. No unnecessary fripperies distracted

from the fact that the restaurant towers over the M5.

attention from the perfectly pink and tender poultry.

However, that fades into insignificance amid the vast

A tonka-bean pannacotta, layered with seasonal

panorama of lush countryside that rolls out beyond it.

rhubarb jelly and topped with ginger crumb

Who's cooking? Devon-born Matt is the driving force

and raspberry sorbet, provided a similarly

behind this new vision for The View. He's long had

restrained sweet finale.

a fanclub of foodies: they raved about his cooking

Need to know Arrive early as you'll want to soak up

at The Jack in the Green for over 25 years, before

the countryside views from the bar area. The slick and

he moved to nearby Winslade Manor which, as its

spacious spot has low sofas beside vast windows –

chef director, he helped launch.

the perfect space for lounging with an aperitif. Don't

When the opportunity arose to head up the kitchen

be confined to the existing cocktail menu, either;

at The View, Matt leapt at the chance – and brought

Charlie and team are happy to shake up whatever

the rest of the Mason clan with him.

takes your fancy.

What to order? A concise three-course menu reveals

For postprandial pleasures, perch at the

refined dishes which reflect Matt's experienced hand.

lightbulbs-and-houseplant-festooned bar for a

However, if you're in the mood for something more

nightcap and soak up the live music.

casual, a Mibrasa charcoal-grill menu delivers quality dry-aged steaks cooked over flame.

The View Sandy Park Way, Exeter, EX2 7NN theviewexeter.co.uk

E AT I N G

O U T

Beach House Falmouth

Images: Adam Sargent

Oysters, olive trees and golden-hour suppers are all part of the charm of this seafood spot by the beach, discovers Jo Rees

What's the draw? With a glass of crisp white in hand, a plate of fresh oysters before you, and the turquoise waters of Swanpool Beach just a few metres away, a visit to Beach House Falmouth delivers unmistakably Mediterranean vibes.

If the lemon sole's on, do not hesitate. Ours arrived

Who needs to battle airport queues in search of

bronzed and delicate, lifted with the bright zing of

Instagrammable moments when there's freshly landed

blood orange and the salty pop of buttery samphire.

seafood served in a setting like this in Cornwall?

Lobster with garlic butter and skinny fries is always an indulgent and appropriate seaside pick and, true

There are very few places in the South West where

to form, this was cracking.

such an on-the-beach location and a quietly confident menu of fresh seafood collide. This is a spot for long,

There are so many alluring fish and shellfish options

lazy lunches and golden-hour suppers where you'll

on the menu that choosing can feel perilous – what if

be plotting a return visit before the bill hits the table.

you make the wrong call? If you're dithering, opt for the hot shellfish platter to share. The treasure trove of

Previously Hooked on the Rocks, the restaurant is now

squid, clams, cockles, mussels, prawns, scallops and

part of the Beach House Group, run by Tamara Costin

oysters is served with garlic butter, and those who want

and William Speed. They've created a barefoot-gourmet

to want to push the boat out (and throw away the oars)

dining experience that's faithful to Hooked's seafood

can add an optional whole crab or lobster.

soul and good-times vibe, but with a little more polish. It's a perfect match for the cinematic sea views and

Non-fish eaters are well looked after with dishes like

soundtrack of crashing waves and clinking glasses.

whole burrata with grilled courgette, and breaded duck leg with parmesan and herb polenta, and

In summer, clear plastic walls around the terrace

oyster mushroom.

area (that supplements the restaurant) roll up to let the sea breeze in, turning it into an indoor-outdoor

Need to know This is one of those places locals know

dining room. A towering olive tree, festoon lights

about and visitors stumble on by chance, thinking

and Ibiza-style tunes from occasional DJs dial up

they've struck gold. While they're Googling ‘best

the out-of-oﬃce-on mood.

restaurants in Falmouth’, the locals are sipping wine on the terrace.

Who's cooking? Heading up the kitchen is Jack Frame, who's been head chef for four years,

In summer, this terrace is the hot ticket, so book

although he's worked at the restaurant for eight. He

ahead to secure your spot – especially on DJ nights

takes an unfussy, ingredient-first approach using

when the sunset and mellow beats create the best

fresh-off-the-boat seafood and seasonal vegetables.

kind of beach party.

Service hits the mark too and complements the seaside setting: it's friendly, knowledgeable and well paced.

Beach House Falmouth

What to order? Start with the oysters – fresh, briny and

Swanpool Beach, near Falmouth,

sparkling with mignonette or deep fried and paired

Cornwall, TR11 5BG

with a punchy aioli. Either way, they demand to be

beachhousefalmouth.com

slurped with the house Bloody Mary that wields its heat like an axe. Move on to a starter of tuna tartare: meltingly soft bonito lent backbone by the bite of fresh horseradish and the crunch of jerusalem artichoke crisps.

Wrong size but we design it

Beautifully crafted dishes in the heart of Dartmoor Dartmoor National Park, Devon, PL20 6SW 01822 892300 | www.twobridges.co.uk Facebook‑F TWITTER 

Nestled with views of the donkeys in an area of outstanding beauty, get a taste of our new fresh, local, seasonal menu. Open every day of the year from 9am

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A registered charity

Travel The coolest, quirkiest and most fabulous places to visit in the South West this season

Image: Katie Taylor

Cool places to stay, page 52

Cool places to stay Book a summer staycation that delivers indulgence both indoors and out. Abi Manning scouts out ultra-luxe getaways with fabulous outside spaces

Watergate Lodge Watergate Bay, Cornwall Watergate Lodge is the epitome of luxe coastal living, thanks to its epic vistas and sleek Scandi-style interiors. The striking light-filled house blurs the line between indoors and out, providing guests with a seamless connection to the coast. A landscaped Mediterranean courtyard garden and generous outdoor social spaces make this a getaway that's all about alfresco dinners under wide skies, nightcaps around the firepit and stargazing from the roof terrace. Guests staying at Watergate Lodge (or any other property in Beach Retreats' Iconic Set) receive a bundle of land&water natural bath and body products, and a £100 voucher towards an organic delivery from The Cornish Food Box Company. Five bedrooms, plus the proximity of the house to walking paths, the beach, a surf school, restaurants, cafes and shops make this a stonking find for a multi-generational family holiday or group getaway. ›› beachretreats.co.uk

Ennys Cornwall St Hilary, Cornwall Set in 20 acres of wild pasture and lush gardens complete with sun-dappled outdoor pool, Ennys Cornwall is a Georgian manor farm with four pretty cottages crafted from the former granary and dairy.

Honeydown

The largest of these is Garden Cottage, which

Hatherleigh, Devon

offers attractive reverse‑level living for up to four people. Upstairs, a spacious sitting room

Each of these five handcrafted wooden

has views over the gardens. Exterior granite

domes, affectionately known as truffles,

steps lead down to a Mediterranean‑style

provides an opportunity to immerse

private terrace with outdoor dining

yourself in woodland wonder.

table – ideal for sunny breakfasts and

The truffles – located in 15 acres

relaxed sundowners.

of woodland – provide snug nests

A cream tea, fresh flowers and a welcome

beneath the shelter of oak trees.

basket of provisions from artisan producers

Planning a romantic hideaway for two?

provide additional treats for guests, and are

Hang in the hammock, feast alfresco

a delicious way to ease into a stay at this

and snuggle by the firepit. Seeking a

enchantingly peaceful spot.

unique family adventure? Let curious mini minds explore the woods and go

ennys.co.uk

wildlife spotting.

Image: Katie Taylor

honeydown.com

Image: Castle Trematonia © Unique Homestays

Castle Trematonia Tamar Valley, Cornwall For a passport to paradise, look no further than this slice of exoticism by the Cornish coast. Inside, the Georgian manor is a riot of colour and pattern (think grand staircase smothered in leopard print), while, outdoors, acres of subtropical gardens twist around turrets and roll into orchards before leading to a natural pool, sauna and ancient Indian poolhouse. This is a house of bodacious proportions, sleeping up to 18 in nine sumptuous bedrooms. If you can drag yourself away from the luscious pool there are plenty of alternative pleasure‑seeking pursuits to enjoy, from ping pong in the gatehouse to an indoor skate ramp. ›› uniquehomestays.com

Lilypod Okehampton, Devon Bob your way to bliss in a floating pod on a hidden lake in the countryside. The soothing tranquility of being beside the

If the wild swimming, water‑hammock

water is hard to resist, and you can't get

lounging and canoeing opportunities aren't

much closer than at Lilypod's Kingfisher and

enough to fill the days, then wild moorland,

Heron pods. Set anchor at this innovative

forests and beaches are all within a half‑hour

accommodation and experience peaceful

drive. There's also a vineyard next door and

lakeside luxury.

award‑winning pubs, historic houses and pretty towns nearby.

With geodesic skin and frames hewn from local Devonian timber, the pods set a

lilypod.uk

benchmark for low‑carbon and ecologically responsible off‑grid living.

Praktyka Buckland Brewer, Devon This tucked-away creative retreat is an unplugged idyll designed to ease guests wide-reaching views towards Exmoor,

into finding their rhythm.

kip in a barn in a peaceful corner of the

Praktyka is an evolving art concept, a

gardens, or hunker down in a cabin

space where architectural cabins plus

craft workshops (such as jewellery

Niall Maxwell of Rural Office. Gather

making and cyanotype printing)

your clan and book the whole site – it

provide inspiration and an opportunity

can host up to 12 – for a group getaway.

for those who want to slow down and

Your hosts, Henry and Ania, can help

practise creativity.

you plan adventures in the surrounding

Out-of-the-ordinary accommodation

area: discover secret beaches, pop into

is unique and considered, and adorned

the best local coffee spots and visit local

with private garden, hammocks

artists' studios.

and interesting furniture. Stay in a giant dome on a floating deck with

praktyka.co.uk

•

TH E

S PA

IN S PE C TO R

St Michaels Resort Selena Young steps into a coastal spa break in Falmouth that features more than a touch of the Tropics

ho isn't guilty of comparing a sun‑drenched coastal scene in the

We managed to manifest the sun on our visit, so

UK to one that could be – huge

naturally spent most of the time outdoors. The

brushstroke here – “abroad”? When the sand feels

scene was one of la dolce vita: guests sprawled on

warm underfoot and the sickly scent of Hawaiian

daybeds with lazy smiles on their faces as they dried

Tropic is on the breeze, your senses can trick you

in the sunshine, cracking the spines of new novels,

into the illusion that you're in a far‑flung land.

snoozing under towels and sipping Champagne.

Yet anyone lounging spa‑side at St Michaels Resort

The only reason to peel away from one of the

would be forgiven for being astonished they're not

loungers? To slide into the 12‑person outdoor hot

actually in the Tropics.

tub, lower into the goosebump‑inducing plunge pool or cocoon in the warmth of the barrel sauna.

The indoor-outdoor hydrothermal spa and neighbouring spa lodges sit in luscious subtropical gardens, rich in 50 shades of green. A tapestry of

HYDRO HAPPINESS

plants, including towering echiums and palms,

Inside, the main attraction is the hydrotherapy pool

ruffled ferns and bright bamboo shoots, deliver an

– the largest in the South West – which is heated

earthy perfume that only heightens the fantasy.

to a balmy 34C and features a dozen purpose‑made

The sensory pleasures of nature are dialled up

stations designed to target different muscle groups

by the hotel's proximity to the blonde sands of

with jets of water. Guests cruise between the

Gyllyngvase Beach, so spa sessions come with a

bubbling beds, waterfall spouts and massaging

vista of Falmouth Bay and the distant whisper of

streams, manoeuvring in little movements to target their knottiest spots. ››

waves stroking the shore. Cue: dreamy sigh.

After a session in the pool, we hopped in and out of the different spa chambers, chugging grapefruit‑infused water to rehydrate between rooms. We let the stress evaporate in the herbal Finnish‑style sauna, breathed in the calming, heady aroma of plants in the

Our masseuses let us choose the Elemis

rainforest steam room, drenched ourselves

massage oil we preferred – the ‘Active’

in brrr‑cold water from an ice bucket, and

blend of sea buckthorn, orange peel extract

let the Cornish Sea Salt steam room deliver

and sea fennel soothing us into a serenely

its healing properties.

uplifting trance. Massaging in synchronised patterns from top to toe, the pair unlocked

PUTTING THE 'TREAT' INTO TREATMENTS

tight muscles in practised movements.

There's always a reason to treat yourself,

EAT, SLEEP, SPA, REPEAT

and this is the place to give in to a little self indulgence – whether that's a massage, facial

To live like a wellness VIP for a couple of

or a rhassoul mud experience.

nights, it's worth splashing out on a stay in one of the four Spa Garden Lodges.

As nearlyweds in need of a little R&R,

Hidden among the flora surrounding the

of a couples massage. All thoughts of

spa, they each have a private outdoor terrace

wedmin were rubbed out as we sank into

with wooden deckchairs, an alfresco shower,

the weightless bliss that a good full‑body

a heated lounge area and – best of all – a

massage delivers. ››

copper bathtub for soaking under the stars.

Image: Elliott White

we plumped for the shared experience

Paddle and play in the waves at Gylly beach, sluice off the sand in your outdoor shower, then bask in the tub till your skin prunes Wherever you sleep, nourishment made

and the peachy sky fades to dusk.

from Cornish produce is to be found at the

The lodge interiors reflect the calm coastal

hotel's Brasserie on the Bay or its laidback

vibe in contemporary style. And, from the

little brother,

plush bed and lounge furniture to finishing touches like yoga mats (morning vinyasa

Nourish. The latter deals in healthy and

flow on your deck? Namaste to that) and

vibrant eats via small plates, salads and

St Eval diffusers, every detail has been

pizzas in a spot that complements the zen

considered to encourage gentle unfurling.

vibe of a spa-centric stay.

•

Spa lodgers are also granted unlimited access to the spa and reside just a few flip-flops

St Michaels Resort

away, so there's no dashing through the

Gyllyngvase Beach, Falmouth,

hotel in your robe, flashing flesh.

Cornwall, TR11 4NB stmichaelsresort.com

‘Paddle in the waves then bask in the tub till the peachy sky fades to dusk dusk’’

Yeotown A N D

T E ST E D

In need of a full-blown mind, body and spirit reset? Rosanna Rothery immersed herself in a transformational detox in the wilds of north Devon

Image: Peter Lothian

TR IE D

MORE THAN A RETREAT After you've eaten a sumptuous breakfast and are enjoying a brisk yomp through the jagged peaks,

Daily hikes are designed to get you fit while leaving

secluded beaches and bucolic pastures of north

you high on fresh air and phenomenal views.

Devon you might just pinch yourself: Can this really

Routes weave in and out of the South West Coast

be a detox? Shouldn't I be sipping celery juice and

Path, providing an opportunity to clamber over

sweating it out in a gym?

towering granite boulders to gawp at panoramic

However, just like the many celebrities and

ocean vistas. A bunch of super fit pros (ranging

those‑in‑the‑know who've done the Yeotox before

from ex‑soldier to gym instructor and ultra-fit

you, you'll be delighted to discover that at this

mountain trekker) lead the hikes, which are always

Devon hideaway, exertion and effort are punctuated

(thankfully) tailored to individual fitness levels.

with pleasure: delicious food, massage, saunas and

The Yeotox mantra of ‘strong in body, clear in

lush countryside.

mind’ is played out in the yoga classes too. A session with Mercedes (who, as well as being one

RUSTIC REJUVENATION

of the UK's leading vinyasa flow yoga teachers

Tucked into a valley, 15 minutes from the sea,

is also a positive psychology coach) is as much a

Yeotown comprises a cosy and characterful

workout for your mental attitude as your body.

17th‑century farmhouse and a collection of barn

Devotees love her yoga for the contagious energy

rooms and lodges. These offer the simple pleasures

she brings to the mat – not to mention a fair

of a rustic escape: a sweeping lawn leading to a

few playful curveballs (no spoilers here), which

burbling river, a tranquil courtyard and gardens,

challenge both beginner and advanced yogis to

a roaring log fire and a kitchen humming with the

increase their physical and mental resilience.

warmth of an Aga.

Make no mistake, you'll do a ton of exercise when

It's in this bucolic setting that your health reset

you visit Yeotown. However, for every exertion

takes place. Rest assured this isn't a juice, colonics

and endeavour, there's a deep‑tissue massage,

and tongue‑scraper type of detox, nor is it the kind

open‑air hot tub or restorative yoga class. ››

of gruelling bootcamp where you're screamed at

Image: James McDonald

to work – and sweat – harder. On the other hand, you definitely won't be lounging by a pool, post mindfulness class, sipping cocktails. Instead, Yeotown owners Mercedes and Simon Sieff have curated a thoughtful programme that reignites your motivation to become more energised, fit and healthy.

OUTDOOR GYM From cold‑river immersion and wild swimming to surfing and coastal hikes, the Yeotown secret to de‑stressing, recentering and recharging lies in you tuning in to your innate ability to connect with nature.

Image: James McDonald Image: Dale Curtis

Image: James McDonald

Image: Guy Harrop

Clockwise from top left: nourishing fare; yoga on the lawn; Mercedes Sieff in the garden; guest lodge; hiking

Image: Guy Harrop

by the coast

CONSCIOUS CUISINE

HEALTHY FEEDBACK

Yeotown menus are centred around gut‑healing

Yeotown may be something of an insider's secret,

dishes designed to increase energy, while omitting

but it's won some high-profile accolades, including

the culprits that can cause problems. However,

the Tatler Award for Life‑Changing Spa, the

if the mere thought of forgoing coffee, refined

Condé Nast Traveller Award for Best Spa Retreat

sugar, gluten, wheat, dairy, alcohol and meat all

UK and The Times' Best Southwest England Spa.

at the same time brings on a mild state of panic,

The 50‑acre estate is nothing short of idyllic,

you need to know about Yeotown's goddess of gut

the staff truly lovely, and watching your fellow

health: chef Louise Johnson. Despite eschewing

guests (up to 12) bravely conquer their fears

crowd‑pleasers like wheat and dairy, Louise

and go for broke in each challenge is inspiring.

rustles up sumptuous and delicious dishes.

You'd be pretty hard-pressed to leave without

Throughout the experience, there's a focus on

feeling closer to nature, more energised,

getting sufficient protein and boosting the

mentally and physically stronger and pumped

plant diversity and fibre in your diet. Fabulous

with enthusiasm. Plus, you'll be armed with a

ferments – the key to a healthy gut microbiome

blueprint for maintaining fitness, gut health and

and sterling immune system ‑ include Yeotown's

overall vitality.

own sauerkraut, kimchi, orchard‑pressed apple

And when you inevitably fall off the wagon

cider vinegar and a host of zingy kefir waters.

and overdo the cocktails and carbs back home, think of it as an excuse to book a week at the

DIGITAL DETOX

couple's boho‑chic retreat in the subtropical paradise of Madeira.

Should you arrive suffering from decision fatigue and burnout, don't worry: the Yeotox is also designed to deliver mental restoration. In fact,

•

you won't need to plan, organise or problem-solve

Yeotown Devon

a single thing during your stay.

Snapper, Devon, EX32 7JY yeotown.com

Each day's schedule is a closely guarded secret ‑ known only to the enigmatic staff ‑ so all you have to do is relinquish control and go with the flow.

Need to know

You'll also be invited to take part in a smattering of quirky activities (again, I won't ruin the fun) that'll

The five‑day signature programme, the

have you thinking in rather more unorthodox ways

Yeotox, runs from Wednesday to Sunday,

about your physical and mental wellness journey.

and follows a seasonally led schedule.

RURALCOOL

All‑inclusive prices begin at £2,650 (low

Simon and Mercedes have created a portfolio of

dinner, guided hikes, activities and

season) which includes breakfast, lunch,

swoonworthy guestrooms, which draw on Simon's

massage on each full day of the retreat.

interior design background and former life as an art and antiques dealer.

There is an opportunity to add bodywork

The newer eco lodges are the epitome of ruralcool,

facials, plus diagnostic testing such

treatments such as Thai massage and

decked out with unique artwork, luxe features and

as microbiome gut tests and glucose

a host of thoughtful touches (Dryrobe, outdoor

monitoring with result analysis.

blankets, Yeotown toiletries and homemade bath

yeotown.com

salts) to leave you feeling cosseted.

Stroud & surrounds W E E KE N D E R

Image: Adam Lynk

Jane Rakison does a long weekend at the Cotswolds hotspot and its swanky satellite villages

Friday Image: Kirstie Young

Make the journey to Gloucestershire early on Friday morning. You'll be glad you did. We'd suggest spending your first day and night in Nailsworth. However, before you even get there, start as you mean to go on and book an early massage or swim at Calcot&Spa, which is to be found in countryside not far from the town. The state-of-the-art country club and spa is, happily, open to non-members and very welcoming. Once you hit Nailsworth, post-travel coffee and bakes comes courtesy of tiny bakery Happy Cinnamon. Pop one of the roasted onion and duck fat sourdough loaves in your forever shopping bag before hopping across the street to book an eight-course tasting dinner for that night at three-AA-rosette Wilder. Window shopping and general mooching is easy to do in this little town as there are independent shops aplenty. Visit potter

Grant Sonnex in a studio filled with

accommodation, be sure to pay a visit to

one-of-a-kind ceramic vessels inspired by the

fishmonger William's for super-fresh

local landscape. Stunning everyday homewares

seafood and a vast array of top-notch deli

and gifts can be found at Domestic Science,

goodies. Pudding can be sorted a few doors

which is connected by a bright pink and red

away at Baked by Beth. Insta-worthy iced

candy-stripe staircase to bustling cafe The

cakes on the counter feature on-trend flavour

Canteen on the floor below. It's the perfect

combos like rose and rhubarb.

lunchtime pit stop.

you're

staying

self-catering

If self-catering is a no-no, book atmospheric accommodation at the 16th-century Egypt Mill. Watch the sun set from a waterside table in the riverside garden then retreat to a characterful bedroom. ››

Clockwise from left: Calcot&Spa;

Image: Carmel King

Egypt Mill; Baked By Beth

Clockwise from left: Source at The Painswick; Niang's Thai Street Food; Juliet; Image: Ed Schofield

Clemency Calkin artwork at Union Street

Saturday Stroud purrs with the hustle and bustle of a thriving market town and Saturday morning is when it is at its most vibrant.

If the grilled cheese sandwich didn't kick

The market is always brimming with delicious

lunch into touch, Juliet is your go‑to.

edibles – both greedy eats to consume hot

Despite being pretty new, this sister to iconic

or ingredients to take home – so it's a

The Woolpack in Slad has already become

haven for foodies. For bites to‑go, check out

an unmissable restaurant in this part of the

Raclette Raclette's melted cheese sandwiches,

world. Visit the neighbourhood bistro for

which are so good they probably shouldn't be

top‑quality ingredients turned into excellent

legal. Or feast on squidgy herb‑packed falafel

no‑nonsense and impeccably plated Italian

and stop‑in‑your‑tracks streetfood like the

and French dishes.

chicken satay from local legend Niangs Thai.

Afternoon caffeination can be found at

On the ingredients front, freshly made kefir,

Fairtrade coffee shop Cacao House on Bedford

probiotic yogurt and feta‑style cheese from

Street and Rough Hands in Five Valleys

Windrush Valley are standout – and so

arcade. The latter is also home to the epic

beautifully packaged they're gift‑worthy.

Artisan Bakery and a cornucopia of food and

Top-grade organic meat is to be found

drink vendors selling everything from bubble

at Adey's Farm.

tea to Spanish deli goods.

Sweet-tooths should head to Bedford

A two‑minute drive north of Stroud takes you

Street where Glazed Bakehouse makes

to The Malthouse Collective. The red‑brick

grown‑up‑friendly doughnuts which can

converted mill is a find for its beautiful

be ordered in advance via Instagram (tip: the

curation of antiques, antiquities and modern

passionfruit glaze is immense).

goods. Its buzzy cafe Brick & Brew serves breakfast and brunch and is a cosy spot for

Stroud is a fiercely independent town with

a break from treasure hunting.

sustainability credentials and a thriving creative community. Some of its members'

After a busy Saturday, relax and reload at

work can be seen at Union Street, a boutique

The Painswick. The boutique hotel in the

gallery and shop showcasing ornamental

gorgeous eponymous village is well placed

patchwork, cool candelabras, unique jewellery

to facilitate countryside romps as wellies

and more. Made in Stroud is another treasure

and coats are provided. Luxurious comfort

trove of local makers' talent, while SVA

via roll‑top baths, fluffy robes and squishy

(Stroud Valleys Artspace) is a fantastic spot

bedding also await.

to admire contemporary artists' work.

Don't miss aperitifs at the hotel bar, or the very good eating at the hotel's restaurant Sauce. The kitchen is led by head chef Jamie McCallum, who has recently rejuvenated the menu to reflect seasonal and locally sourced produce. ››

Image: Ed Schofield

Clockwise from left: The Woolpack; The

Image: Hattie Ellis

Painswick; Jolly Nice

Sunday Painswick is a blissfully quiet spot for an easy Sunday morning stroll. That said, there'll be plenty of action going down at Juniper, a haven for locals and visitors who swing by the cafe for speciality coffee and baked goods from Artisan Bakery. The village is centred around St Mary's Painswick, a church surrounded by an

Over in Selsley, The Bell Inn is a proper

awe-inspiring display of 90 perfectly

dog-friendly local serving award-winning

clipped yew trees.

gourmet food. Locally sourced ingredients

To work off those mid-morning pastries,

are integral to the menu, including veggies plucked from the head chef's allotment and

take a short hike (walking shoes aren't

kitchen garden. Finish the weekend in style

necessary) up Painswick Beacon and

with one of its decadent Sunday lunches and

experience life-affirming 360° views of Gloucestershire and beyond. Or visit

a gin from the ginormous collection.

Painswick Rococo Garden, the only Rococo

For a final unforgettable pit stop, don't miss

garden left in the country.

Jolly Nice. The well-stocked farm shop and

For Sunday lunch, it has to be one of

cafe also has a unique drive-through that sells takeaway food to support local growers

two devilishly good Cotswolds pubs.

who work regeneratively. Grab something

The Woolpack in Slad is a 300-year-old

delicious for supper and take a taste of Stroud

institution with a fireside bar, equally snug

and its surroundings home with you.

dining room and an outdoor terrace. The food oozes homecooked comfort but the flavours are more sophisticated than you could conjure up at home. The wine list is eclectic and well sourced, as is the range of craft beers and fine ciders. Best of all, though, is the atmosphere. It's electric.

‘For For Sunday lunch, it has to be one of two devilishly good Cotswolds pubs’

•

Est. 1992 Est. 1992

Take to the the next nextlevel level Takeyour yourcookery cookery to If you want to improve your cookery skills the Ashburton If you want to improve your cookery skills the Ashburton Cookery School is the best place toto start. Cookery School is the best place start.With Withaarange rangeof of overover 50 cookery courses aimed at home cooks of all 50 cookery courses aimed at home cooks of alllevels, levels, you you are are suresure to find a course to to enhance to find a course enhanceyour yourskills skillsand and enjoyment of cookery. enjoyment of cookery.

Master a specific skill such as Knife Skills, Patisserie and Master a specific skill such as Knife Skills, Patisserie and Sauces, or learn learnto tocook cooka afavourite favourite cuisine courses such Sauces, or cuisine onon courses such as Italian, Mexican, French, Indian and Thai. We even have as Italian, Mexican, French, Indian and Thai. We even have aa range of qualifications qualificationsatatour ourprestiguous prestiguous Chefs Academy range of Chefs Academy where you can cantrain traintotocook cookprofessionally. professionally. where you

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www.AshburtonCookerySchool.co.uk www.AshburtonCookerySchool.co.uk

Weekend

Image: Stuart Everitt

cooking Feasting on plant-based dishes in the garden delivers good vibes in spades. The vegmeisters at Riverford share a few of their favourite recipes

Summer beetroot soup

Image: Stuart Everitt

Earthy and eye-catchingly vibrant, this beetroot soup is an easy summery starter or light lunch dish

Grilled little gem lettuce

Serves 4

Chefs have embraced the trend for charring hispi cabbage and lettuce heads on the grill for their sweet and smoky flavours. Basting with a little melted butter and miso also works well

Olive oil 2 tbsp Onion 1, peeled and chopped Potato 1, peeled and diced Fresh ginger 2.5cm, grated or finely chopped Orange 1, zest Oranges 2, juiced Beetroot 3, medium, cooked and diced Water 1.2l Salt and pepper to season

Optional extras Cream or yogurt to serve Orange zest, to serve 1 Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion and fry until soft and translucent.

Serves 4 Little gem lettuce 2 heads Olive oil

2 Add the potato and ginger and fry for 3 minutes.

Salt and pepper to season

3 Add the orange zest and juice, plus the beetroot and water, then bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, until the potato is tender.

1 Cut the lettuces into wedges (about 6-8 wedges per head), keeping the root end attached to hold everything together.

4 Blend until smooth. Reheat gently and season to taste.

2 Brush them all over with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

5 Garnish with a swirl of cream or yogurt and a little grated orange zest.

3 Place lettuce on the bars of the barbecue and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until lightly charred and a little wilted.

‘If the carrots are too big to arrange in a circular pattern, place in parallel’

Carrot

tarte tatin Switch the usual apples for carrots in this savoury version of the classic upside-down tart, which is packed with texture and traditional French flavours

Serves 8 Carrots 8-10, trimmed and halved lengthwise Olive oil Honey 2 tbsp, plus extra for brushing Thyme 4 sprigs, leaves stripped from stalks Salt and pepper to season Red or white onions 8, peeled and sliced Wholegrain mustard 2 tbsp Vinegar 1 tbsp Puff pastry 1 pack Goat's cheese 75g

1 Preheat the oven to 190C/gas 5. Place the carrots in a baking tray with a little olive oil, plus the honey, thyme, salt and pepper. Toss everything and arrange the carrots in a single layer. Bake for 20–25 minutes or until the carrots are just tender. 2 Heat a little oil in a large frying pan over a low heat. Add the onions with a good pinch of salt and cook very slowly, stirring occasionally, for 20–25 minutes or until they become soft and golden. Turn off the heat and mix in the mustard and vinegar. 3 Brush some honey into a 23–26cm tart tin and arrange the carrots in a single layer with the cut side down. Add the onion mixture on top and flatten it out with a spoon. 4 Roll out the puff pastry and use the tip of a sharp knife to cut a circle 2cm wider than the tin. Place the pastry on top of the onion mixture, tucking the edges inside. Using the tip of a knife or fork, poke a few holes into the pastry. Bake for 20–35 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. 5 Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes before carefully inverting the tart onto a serving plate. Crumble over the cheese, and garnish with a few thyme leaves before serving.

45 13 18 21

SOMERSET 1 29 22

ISLES OF S C I L LY 26

7 9 3

30 5

20 38

DORSET

40 43

35 6

4 33 11

DEVON

25 28

10 32 17

CORNWALL

PUB 23

PUB & ROOMS BEER HOUSE

In collaboration with Harbour Brewing Co.

DISCOVER THE BEST OF THE SOUTH WEST, ONE PUB AT A TIME. 1. The Atlantic 2. Borough Arms 3. The Central 4. Chain Locker 5. County Arms 6. The Crabshell 7. Fort Inn 8. The Globe 9. Great Western 10. Harbour Beer House

11. Harbour Inn 12. Harbour Light 13. Hare & Hounds 14. Havener’s 15. Hicks Bar 16. Hope & Anchor 17. Lifeboat Inn 18. Locksbrook Inn 19. Masons Arms 20. Mill On The Exe

22. Old Custom House 23. Old Market House 24. Old Success Inn 25. Oystercatcher 26. Pedn Olva 27. Pier House 28. Port Gaverne 29. Port William 30. Punchbowl & Ladle

31. Godolphin Arms 32. Rashleigh Arms 33. Rising Sun 34. Rock Point 35. Rose & Crown 36. Royal Castle 37. Royal Seven Stars 38. Samuel Jones 39. Ship Inn 40. The Ship

SCAN HERE TO FIND YOUR SOUTH WEST DESTINATION THIS SUMMER We also have over 120 tenanted pubs across the South West managed by our Business Partners. For a full list and map please visit staustellbrewery.co.uk

41. Shipwrights 42. Victoria Inn 43. The Waterfront 44. The Wellington 45. The Wellington

Asparagus, courgette and tomato

tabbouleh Serves 2

This herby side dish can be turned into the main event with crumbled feta or fried tofu

Bulgur wheat 125g

1 Preheat the oven to 200C/gas 6. Boil a kettle.

Olive oil

2 Place the bulgur wheat in a heatproof bowl. Mix in 1 tbsp of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Tip in enough boiling water to cover by 1cm. Pop a plate on top and leave the bulgur wheat to plump up.

Salt and pepper to season Cherry tomatoes 250g, halved Courgettes 2, cut into 1cm-thick slices Asparagus 200g, trimmed and sliced into thirds Spring onions 60g, trimmed and sliced as thinly as possible Parsley 30g, leaves stripped from stalks, finely chopped Mint 10g, leaves stripped from stalks, finely chopped

3 Put the tomatoes and courgettes in a roasting tray. Oil and season well, then transfer to the oven and roast for 25 minutes. Mix the asparagus into the roasting tray for the last 8 minutes in the oven. 4 When the veg is cooked, fluff up the bulgur wheat with a fork and add to the roasting tray, along with the onions, herbs and a good squeeze of lemon juice. Mix well and tweak the seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste.

Lemon 1, juice of

Drinks Discover smart artisan cider giving wine a run for its money, find the best coffee in Cornwall, and stir up a summer spritz

Cool off with the best coffee in Cornwall, page 84

J A N E

R A K I S O N ' S

D R I N K S

D I A RY

Blue-sky

drinking Our drinks expert picks three serious ciders for smart summer sipping

id-strength wine may be having a moment, but artisan cider has been bossing the four-to-nine-per-cent

drinks scene for a while. Brimming with complexity and posh enough to justify a wine glass, artisan ciders can seamlessly replace wine as a great match with food, and are fantastic for quaﬃng under blue skies. Typically, artisan cider is made in small batches and with 100 per cent apples. That might sound obvious, but the legal minimum apple content for British cider is just 35 per cent. As well as going the full apple, these producers add extra flavour by adopting techniques such as skin contact, using native yeasts, and introducing other fruits into the mix. The result is cider layered with tastes that reflect the terroir and are worthy of any wine comparison.

Ripe Skawen 2023,

Pilton In Touch 4 2023,

Sandridge Barton Cider

Cornwall (6.2%)

Somerset (4.5%)

2021, Devon (6.5%)

Georgie and Cameron make cider

Pilton is a small-batch producer

More famous for its wines,

the unplugged way, with only

keen on keeved ciders – an

Sandridge Barton's first cider

one piece of equipment that uses

ancient method of making

comes from orchards on its wine

electricity. Their Ripe Skawen

naturally sweetened cider. In

estate in south Devon. Mid-peach

is a still, dry cider that's wild

Touch 4 features red and white

in colour, it's lightly sparkling

fermented with apples (including

grape skins – Pinot Noir and

with raspberry leaf, floral and

Cornish heritage varieties)

Bacchus – which are soaked in

nutty aromas. The palate of sour

from an ancient orchard on a

the fermenting cider.

pear and green apples combines

saltwater estuary.

has

ultra-juicy

plump

The captivating aromas of white

strawberry flavours with a

blossom and banana chips are

light sweetness offset by very

followed by a sour yet succulent

mild tannins, making it perfect

grapefruit zing on the palate –

for food. Serve chilled with

a tasty contrast to the moreish

small plates of charcuterie,

salty finish. Serve chilled with

mushroom arancini, or anything

alfresco favourites such as

dusted in dukkah.

gazpacho, grilled veggie skewers and crab California rolls.

£10.99/75cl piltoncider.com

£14/75cl

Image: An De Smedt

ripecider.com

nicely with gentle tannins. Serve chilled with summery fare like asparagus slathered in butter, seared scallops with lemon, or a salad of peach, mozzarella and prosciutto. £13.50/75cl sandridgebarton.com

of the best

Coffee shops in Cornwall

Following the Salt Path this summer? Indy Coffee Guide editor Selena Young reveals five spots for liquid-gold-level caffeination

1. Yallah Cafe, St Ives While there are loads of good spots in Cornwall to slurp Yallah coffee, the roastery's own harbourside coffee house is hands-down the best. Join the queue of locals and tourists picking up a 'spro to-go from the takeout hatch overlooking the water or explore the full spectrum of single-origin beans

2. Situ, Penryn

inside the cosy cafe.

Top-tier coffee and fusion dishes collide at this

yallahcoffee.co.uk

Penryn fave, where speciality coffee is brewed via multiple methods (espresso, batch filter, Kalita Wave, Chemex and AeroPress) and complemented by next-gen cafe food. Co-owner and chef Sham Mulji feeds his Gujarati heritage into modern Indian dishes made from local produce. Compilations like Masala Machli (Cornish smoked mackerel with spinach masala, wholemeal sourdough, pickles and herbs) make a wicked match to the pristine batch brews. situcafe.co.uk

Gorse, near Newquay

3. Gorse, near Newquay If proof was ever needed that food and drink (more specifically sourdough and coffee) can be works of art and gob-smackingly delicious, it can be found – then erased in a matter of four bites and three gulps – at Gorse. The cafe-bakery churns out exquisite laminated pastries and pimped sourdough, and tops it off with speciality coffee. Fruity batch brew with a labneh, za'atar, honey and sea-salt bun? Stop flirting with us.

4. Beacon Coffee, Falmouth This unique coffee emporium in Falmouth is a great place to ditch your usual flat white order and release yourself into the safe hands of Beacon's pro baristas. Hell-bent on sourcing and serving the most thrilling coffees from leading roasteries across Europe, the team's bean offering is excitingly diverse. Best of all, they know exactly which brew method will coax out the weird and wonderful flavours of every bean. beaconcoffee.co.uk

5. Origin Coffee, Porthleven Any coffee fan worth their beans is already well acquainted with this B Corp roastery. Origin's speciality coffee can be spotted in the hoppers of hundreds of cafes across the UK, as well as its own cafes in London, Bristol and Edinburgh. Trace its own origins to the small fishing town of Porthleven, where an expansive brew experience beckons at the heart of the operation. Head to where it all started at Origin Harbour Head and work your way through a responsibly sourced menu of impeccable pours against a breezy harbour backdrop. Alternatively, pop into the coffee shop within the roastery nearby to get a glimpse of the bronzing alchemy while a barista expertly preps your brew. origincoffee.co.uk

Take a coffee road trip with

The UK's leading guides to the best coffee shops and roasteries serving speciality coffee. Guides available for: London; the South; the North, Midlands and East; Scotland; and Wales. Shop the full range and merch at

indycoffee.guide  indycoffeeguide

Summer

Spritz Hail the sunshine with this zesty cocktail from the drinks maestros at St Austell Brewery

‘This reimagining of the traditional spritz, with its delicate hint of spring orange-blossom, transports you to the sun-drenched shores of Andalucía’ Makes 1

Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla 25ml Orange juice 50ml Prosecco 50ml Soda water to taste Orange slice to garnish

1 Fill a large wine glass with ice. 2 Add the gin and orange juice and stir to combine. 3 Pour in the Prosecco, then top with soda water (to taste). 4 Stir gently and garnish with an orange slice for an extra burst of citrus zing.

Competitions To enter this season's competitions, visit food-mag.co.uk/win See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is Aug 29, 2025.

Win a Cornish

beach retreat W

hat's your idea of paradise? Greeting the morning with an exhilarating sea dip, whiling

away the day exploring coastal paths with the dog, and spending the evening watching the sun set over the ocean? If that hits the mark, you'll love the experience offered by Beach Retreats, which looks after 250 self-catering properties in Cornwall, each located next to one of the county's most Image: Elliott White

stunning beaches. From vibrant surf apartments to stylish family homes and large, luxurious coastal lodges, they have a property to suit every taste and occasion. Relax and unwind knowing your chosen venue is located within easy walking distance of one of the best beaches in the UK. And less time in the car means more

Beach Retreats is a Cornish-owned,

time relaxing with friends as you unwind

family-run business and its team are seaside

on the Cornish coast.

experts, going the extra mile to ensure their guests' holidays are suitably fabulous.

Discover a Beach Retreats property in

PRIZE A £500 voucher to be used

Cool Places to Stay on page 52

towards any available property on the Beach Retreats website. QUESTION In which county are the Beach Retreats properties based? beachretreats.co.uk

S U P P ORT E D

C ON T EN T

Image: Matthew Hawkey

The Spatisserie at Gaia Spa

Win a wellness break at

Boringdon Hall Hotel

Image: Kirstie Young

rade II-listed Boringdon Hall Hotel in Devon may be rich in history, thanks to its Elizabethan architecture and inclusion in

the Domesday Book, but it's also home to a wellness wing that delivers an utterly modern approach to rejuvenation.

Win summer sips from

It's here that our winner and guest will enjoy a night's stay. The Boringdon Wellness Rooms are cocoons of

Drinks Kitchen

calm – all natural styling with Tom Raﬃeld shades, moss living walls and in-room freestanding baths. Alongside, the hotel's award-winning Gaia Spa

rafted in the UK using natural extracts and

ramps up the tranquility rating via indoor and

distillates, Drinks Kitchen's award-winning

outdoor pools, experience showers, elemental

range provides a premium alternative to

heat rooms, alfresco hot tubs and a private

traditional spirits. Whether you're moderating,

relaxation room.

sober curious or simply looking for a refreshing

It's entirely possible to spend the whole break

new sip, these products are a deliciously grown-up

without leaving the wellness wing, but it would

choice.

be criminal not to experience the grandeur of the manor house so the prize also includes dinner in

Alli Briaris launched the range in 2021 with the

the Mayflower Brasserie.

aim of producing sophisticated alcohol-free drinks. And through a creative curation of herbs, fruits

After a restful sleep, the winners can choose

and spices, each bottle delivers the depth and

between lounging in fluffy gowns with a breakfast

complexity of classic aperitifs – sans alcohol.

hamper, brekkie in the wellness wing's Spatisserie,

It's designed to be simple to serve: topped with

or a final foray into the house for breakfast.

sparkling water and garnished with herbs; as a

PRIZE A one-night stay for two people in a Wellness

zesty spritz mixed with a light tonic and a slice of

Room, dinner in two-AA-rosette Mayflower

citrus; or as a cocktail with fruit juice, ginger ale or

Brasserie, complimentary membership of Gaia Spa

non-alcoholic fizz.

for the duration (plus 10 per cent off any prebooked treatments), and a breakfast hamper or breakfast

PRIZE Four 950ml bottles, one of each flavour:

in Mayflower Brasserie or Spatisserie.

Herbe Verde, Spiced Rhubarb, Orange Cinchona, and Grapefruit Piquante.

QUESTION What is the name of Boringdon Hall

QUESTION In which year was

Hotel's brasserie?

Drinks Kitchen launched?

boringdonhall.co.uk

drinkskitchen.online

S U P P ORT E D

C ON T EN T

Cornwall

Win a luxurious getaway in

he Alverton and The Greenbank are sister hotels in Cornwall with a shared mission: to deliver relaxed While it's perfectly positioned for exploring

luxury with a distinctive sense of place.

the rest of Cornwall, The Alverton has

Tucked away at the top of a winding drive and

everything guests need for a weekend of rest

surrounded by mature gardens, The Alverton

and indulgence – you need never actually

is Truro's hidden gem. Once a convent, the

leave this tranquil spot. Sip cocktails or take

Grade II*-listed building is just ten minutes'

afternoon tea on the terrace, then linger over

walk from the city centre – though you'd

dinner in its award-winning restaurant.

never know it. Ivy-clad walls, curved archways and atmospheric architecture give

The bedrooms and suites – spread between

it escapist vibes.

the historic main house and The Courtyard – pair tranquil tones with tactile textures.

Clockwise from far left: The Alverton; views from the Water's Edge restaurant; dining at The Greenbank; rolltop baths at The Alverton;

Image: Arabelle Zhuang Yuru

Water's Edge restaurant

In nearby Falmouth, The Greenbank sits right on the sweeping harbour. It's one of Falmouth's oldest hotels and the only one in the South West to boast its own quay and private pontoon. The sleek retreat

PRIZE One-night stay and breakfast for two

delivers panoramic harbour views from the

in The Alverton, plus a £90 voucher for

restaurant, rooms and suites.

The Greenbank's Water's Edge restaurant.

From local produce-led fine dining at its

QUESTION In which Cornish town will you

Water's Edge restaurant to handmade

find The Alverton?

cocktails on the terrace and indulgent afternoon teas, The Greenbank dishes up

thealverton.co.uk

flavour with flair.

greenbank-hotel.co.uk

S U P P ORT E D

C ON T EN T

Image: Guy Harrop

Food Lifestyle directory

The Chagford Inn A delightful, award-winning, family-run, independent pub in the heart of Dartmoor that promises an excellent casual dining experience. The best of Devon's food and drink scene showcased

with

creativity

and authenticity. thechagfordinn.co.uk

Penventon Park Hotel

The Grey Lurcher

Celebrate the art of flavour in the

Browse

Dining Galleries Restaurant and

and contemporary gifts at this

Copper Bar of this lovely hotel.

Falmouth store. The shop stocks

Indulgent dinners, traditional

Annie Sloan chalk paint, luxury

afternoon teas and extensive wine

home fragrances from Illumens

and cocktail lists are served in an

Candles, jewellery, greetings

inviting atmosphere perfect for

cards, French soap and other

both casual and special occasions.

quality items.

penventon.co.uk

greylurcherfalmouth.com

luxury

homewares

Bearslake Inn Tucked away in Dartmoor National Park, Bearslake Inn is a 13th-century thatched gastropub offering a warm welcome, exceptional food and six charming rooms. With head chef Connor Smart at the helm, expect beautifully crafted dishes using the finest local ingredients. Unwind in the stunning pub garden with its stream, and take the dog too – it's very dog friendly. bearslakeinn.com

Marshford Organic Foods Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh organic veggies, salads and herbs, many of which are homegrown. Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of environmentally friendly and organic groceries are also available from the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered. Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries. marshford.co.uk

Stockists

Here are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food-mag.co.uk Bath

Devon

Gloucestershire

Beckford Bottle Shop

Ashburton Deli

Daylesford Organic Farm

Chandos Deli

Ben's Farm Shop

Ritual Coffee Roasters Bar & Kitchen

Colonna & Small's

Boringdon Hall Hotel

Scandinavian Coffee Pod

Cortado Café

Bovey Castle

The Cheeseworks

No.15 by GuestHouse Hotels

Darts Farm

The Slaughters Country Inn

Picnic Coffee

Gidleigh Park

Vinotopia

Robun

Glebe House

The Fine Cheese Co.

Harbour Beach Club

The Royal Crescent

Johns of Appledore

Brown & Forrest

Lympstone Manor

Chandos Deli

Cornwall

Marshford Organic Foods

Dunster Living

Beach House Falmouth

Rangemoors

FARA

Da Bara Bakery, St Mawes

River Cottage

Farrington's Farm

Electric Bakery

Riverford Field Kitchen

Flourish Food Hall

Fee's Food

The Bull Inn

Holm

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

The Cheese Larder

Homewood

Great Cornish Food Store

The Horse

Iford Manor Estate

Indidog

Lilac Bakery

Little Walcot

Jo & Co Home

The Lost Kitchen

Lord Poulett Arms

Kota

The Salutation Inn

MAKE

Padstow Farm Shop

Waitrose Okehampton

Number One Bruton

Porthminster Beach Café

West Country Stoves

Teals

Always Sunday Town + House

Scarlet Hotel St Kew Farmshop & Café

Ashburton Cookery School

Arc Espresso Bar + Deli

Somerset

The Barrington Boar

Dorset

The Bath Priory

St Michaels Resort

Acorn Inn

The Cellarhand

St Moritz Hotel

Crab House Cafe

The Cotley Inn

Strong Aldofos

Langham Wine Estate

The Holcombe

The Alverton Hotel

Majestic Wine, Dorchester

The Talbot Inn

The Greenbank Hotel

RISE Market & Bakery

The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe

The Grey Lurcher

Seaside Boarding House

Vintage & Vine

The Headland Hotel, Cottages & Spa

Soulshine

White Row Farm Shop

The Idle Rocks

SWIM

The Old Coastguard

The Club House

Little Rituals

The Rising Sun, Truro

The Three Horseshoes

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa

The Square at Porthleven

The Queen's Arms

Majestic Wine, Devizes

Tinkture

Tom's Lyme Regis

Majestic Wine, Marlborough

Trevisker's Kitchen

Town Mill Bakery

The Bath Arms

Trudgian Farm Shop

Waitrose Bridport

The Beckford Arms

Summer Lodge Hotel

Wiltshire

The Bradley Hare The Old Bell Hotel, Malmesbury

Escape the Ordinary Penventon Park Hotel I N C O R N WA L L TR15 1TE | 01209 203000 | enquiries@penventon.com | www.penventon.co.uk

Drift and dine BY THE SEA Soak up St Michaels Spa this summer

stmichaelsresort.com

01326 312707