Alloy Boat Issue 27

ALLOY BOAT LISTING

When you’re out on the water, you shouldn’t have to worry about what’s going on underneath it. That’s why we’ve been out in the field, designing, testing and optimising our coatings to safeguard your boat from fouling. Our results? A new range of antifoulings tailored for your convenience, each providing superior colour and performance you can trust.

CREWSAVER REDUCES ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

Lifejacket provider Crewsaver is spearheading a fundamental shift in how it designs and produces its Survival Technology.

The lifejacket specialist has adopted a three-pronged approach to decrease its environmental impact commencing with the release of its new high-performance lifejackets. Arriving in 2023, Crewsaver’s new EXO lifejackets include the ability to extend the product lifespan. If the cover gets damaged or an alternative colourway is preferred, wearers will no longer need to purchase a new lifejacket. Instead, the cover can be changed easily through a unique modular design. The company is reinventing the packaging experience by eliminating plastic offering a robust and fully biodegradable alternative to plastic bags. Using a science-based approach, a no-trace packaging alternative for Crewsaver’s new lifejackets causes no harm to marine ecosystems whilst still retaining functionality to ensure products are protected through to their destination.

The annual reduction in plastic packaging of 16,400m2 is the equivalent surface area of 13 Olympic-sized swimming pools. This follows an initiative that removes 94,000 plastic hangers per year from Crewsaver’s entire portfolio of products. Feedback from customers and end-users reveals that consumers are increasingly environmentally conscious. Purchasing habits show they are investing in products designed to last without adding to landfill.

SALES@RFD.CO.NZ

IP66 case, designed to protect the unit from the harshest environmental conditions. Each camera module has its own IP address meaning the cameras can be configured, controlled and switched separately, and are compatible with many leading marine chart plotters. An RS485 Serial Data connection is also provided to maximise control options, allowing the cameras to be controlled via NVR or computer, as well as Iris’s CMAC range of camera management systems or CCTV joystick controllers supporting the Pelco-D protocol. The entire unit is 206mm tall with a base diameter of 160mma and weighs just under 2 kg.

DANNY@TENOB.CO.NZ

The Sea Hawk-470 Pencil Beam with Edge Light is capable of picking out even the most distant objects, and a striking Edge Light using light pipe technology.

Edge Light has been integrated into this powerful long distance light bar to give a distinctive glowing signature whilst also providing gentle ambient lighting. The Edge Light is available in both blue or white to give your vessel a unique appearance.

The Sea Hawk-470 is synonymous with performance and durability. New optics have now enhanced the spotlight function while retaining the durable corrosion-proof housing and ultra-tough Grilamid lens. Deesigned and manufactured in New Zealand the Sea Hawk-470 carries a 5-year warranty. When outstanding light intensity and proven reliability is needed to safely get you home the Sea Hawk-470 Light Bars are the preferred choice.

HELLAMARINE.COM

THE NEW MACHINA 761

The Machina 761 is the first Machina to be powered by a Mercruiser 270hp V6 diesel sterndrive. As with all Machina builds, Maristela has been designed to be as versatile as possible for this client's requirements. It will be used for taking the crew offshore fishing, diving around Napier's reefs and overnighting on Lake Taupo.

MACHINASUPPLY.COM

HOT NEW FAST ROBSON

Gravois 362 CC is an 11m all alloy construction, designed by Scott Robson. It will be launched in January in the USA. Power is a pair of 300hp Yamaha outboards. The high speed cat will be used in the Texas Gulf for offshore fishing where on a normal day they go 100 miles offshore. Speed in the rough water is essential! ROBSONBOATS.COM

DREADNORT RELEASE V5500 CC

The design brief for the vertical bow centre-console V5500 CC, was for an incredibly soft riding weapon tailored to the owners needs in every way. The design work only finished a month before this beauty hit the water, with a can-do attitude, the boys at Dreadnort Boats kept up with the owners ideas and incorporated into the build. The design started out at 5.5m, an outboard pod was asked for and incorporated, and due to Dreadnorts design philosophy of extending the bottom plates under the pod, the design ended up 5.76m overall (not including outboard or bowsprit). The cockpit was designed in a way that you can easily reach over the back of the boat, another must for the owner. The the top of the console folds down into the front of the boat for reduced windage when towed and easier stowage in a carport.

Thew V5500 CC is 5.76m overall, with a beam of 2.30m, and a trailerable weight of around 1970 kgs. The first V5500 CC is powered by a Suzuki 150.

The dreadnaught and vertical bows on the Dreadnort range is not there for styling, it suits a purpose, with its weight better distributed over its waterplane area the vessel exhibits notably less pitching than a conventional hull form. It also allows for a lot finer entry to provide you with a softer ride. Dreadnort Boats build to order, they will design and build a boat around you and your favorite aquatic activity. They are happy to supply a boat from bare hull to completely finished.

DREADNORT.COM

TARGETED – if your market is power boats –this is the publication for you – every reader is reading your message because they are interested in power boats !

LONGEVITY – our publications are available for months – your message is out there for the same period.

QUALITY - both the publication and our world leading editorial team offer the best in power boat presentation and reading

WEB SUPPORT – In addition to the printed version – each edition is also availably digitally on the web – further exposing your company and products to the world - indefinitely.

PROVEN – We know for a fact that boats and boating products are sold from our printed and digital versions, our advertisers tell us !!!

The three Innovation Award judges at the 2022 Hutchwilco Boat Show were asked to not only judge the most innovative internationally and locally produced marine products, but also what they considered to be the most innovative boat exhibited at the show. For a first time event, the judges were somewhat surprised to discover that over a dozen entries were received. Fibreglass, alloy and inflatable; they were all there. Although the Marco 600 Sojourn topped the pack, the two second

We saw 28 knots with the Yamaha 60.

equal finalists were the Dreadnort D4000 and the Takacat Catamaran RIB. The Takacat has been featured in a previous article, so it was with eager anticipation that I jumped at the chance to get out on the Hauraki Gulf to test the Dreadnort D4000, a collaboration between two Auckland based companies, Transformarine Naval Architects (Blair Lewis, the designer) and Altech Marine (Stuart Dawe, the builder). This has to be one of the most unique vessels I’ve ever been

on. Not only does it qualify as innovative (novel, original, unique and different), but its physical design and atypical concept make it hard to pigeon hole. Ultimately it is a compromise; designed as an alternative to the fishing PWC with many more advantages, this vessel allows you to take up to two mates out fishing on this full walk around and very stable fishing machine with a fully self-draining deck, while being easily trailerable behind the average family vehicle and able to be slid

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

The Dreadnort D4000 Innovative Boat of the Year runner up at the 2022 Hutchwilco NZ Boat Show, proves to be a winner on the water.

into your garage at home for safe keeping. The US Coast Guard defines a Personal Water Craft (PWC), amongst other criteria, as a jet-drive boat less than 4m long. While the D4000 is not a jet drive, sporting instead a Yamaha 60hp outboard on our test day. It is a compromise (PWC vs small boat) with less hp, more on board fuel and a more economical range. A jet unit can be fitted if requested.

BRISK TEST

Late October, and in the middle of a typically unpredictable Auckland spring day, Blair and I launched the D4000 at the Gulf Harbour boat ramp and took off out into the Hauraki Gulf on a partly cloudy, but windier day than the forecast, straight into a brisk SW wind and a sea running half a metre, with closely spaced waves. In fact, just about perfect conditions to give this “mini dreadnought” a good work out. I say Dreadnaught for two reasons.

First because the aggressive inverted bow resembles a WWI Dreadnaught battleship and secondly, because I like the cheeky play on words with the Dreadnort brand name. But let’s talk about the bow first, as it’s this feature which draws most attention when you first see the boat.

So, what is it with the dreadnaught and vertical bows? This bow isn’t just there for styling, but admittedly, the styling certainly sets this craft apart as well as serving multiple purposes. With a longer waterline length, the

Plenty of space on the dash for instruments and an MFD.

A forward seat expands the useable space.

Dreadnort Boats, is a modern take on the name for the next generation of revolutionary powerboats.

D4000 performs like a larger more traditional boat. The bow design being semi-wave piercing for a softer ride in rough weather –much as we experienced on test day.

I was rather pleased that the ocean conditions were on the rough side, being very curious to discover how this unorthodox boat would perform in lumpy seas. Having easily launched the craft, Blair and I motored past the boat ramp breakwater and headed over to the southwest corner of the bay in order to test out the boat’s capabilities and to shoot some photos.

Arriving on site, Blair handed the helm over to me and we began to put this “mini dreadnaught” through its paces. My first question to Blair before I goosed the throttle was, “How far can I push this thing”? To which he replied; “Not sure, we haven’t yet had a chance to test in these conditions”.

Well, working on the theory that there’s a first time for everything and with instructions for Blair to hang on (fortunately there are a lot of conveniently fitted hand holds on this craft) we started some low, moderate and high speed runs.

This little demon tops out at just over 28 knots at 6,000 rpm. As I pushed this little “pocket rocket” through some high speed manoeuvres, I will confess to a certain trepidation and on one particular sharp turn to port, as we quartered a particularly steep wave, I was thinking “Oh, oh!” But, my fears that both Blair and I would be thrown into the water (centrifugal force and a sharp lean to port….. ah, confession; it felt like we were going to go over), the D4000 skidded around as though the stern was pivotally riveted to the sea floor and pushed its ass towards the waves with a certain disdain that was smugly rewarding.

The D4000 feels safe and stable, even through extremely tight turns in a moderately rough sea. Speaking of rough sea, as I purposely powered straight into some fairly steep waves with a deep troughs behind the crests; anticipating a typical spinal crunch, I took my weight onto my legs and feet, only to discover that this 18 degree angle vee hull and reverse bow knives through waves, avoiding an expected hull slam coming off the crest.

All the fun of a PWC with the luxury of a small boat. Need I say more?

YES, I DO!

Despite glaringly obvious differences in styling and appearance, Dreadnort vessels (not just the D4000 – there are several other boats in the line-up, ranging from the tiller version D4000 to the large V8500 enclosed cabin) are designed and built by a naval architect and by professional boat builders to a commercial standard.

Meaning that if you look beneath the skin of any Dreadnort plate aluminium vessels (including the D4000) you’ll notice a continuous well laid out structure with proper frame and stiffening spacings, professional welding and workmanship akin to that found on a superyacht. Not surprising, as boat builder Stuart Dawe worked at Alloy Yachts for 17 years. Even though the boats weigh a bit more than expected, due to complying with scantling calculations which check the strength of the designed structure by comparing the effective external and internal stresses with the allowable ones thus ensuring that safety comes first as a result of a structurally sound hull with segregated sealed buoyancy chambers.

During our sea trials off Gulf Harbour, I was impressed with the ergonomic simplicity

of the helm station layout and seating arrangement. A wide, but exactly the right length, centrally positioned seat, with tons of storage below, is positioned perfectly behind the steering console which comes equipped with a more than adequate, slightly curved, and easily removable windscreen. All necessary instrumentation is provided and installed in a sensible, intuitive fashion in the centre console. The wheel and throttle control are comfortably and aesthetically fitted, making this vessel easy to drive in any conditions.

Despite its size, this craft is filled with useful and innovative features, many of which I’ve not seen on other small boats. For example, the usual retrieve/secure welded eye on the bow is replaced with a watertight hole through the hull. Unconventional, but practical for easily hooking on in order to winch the boat onto its trailer. The removable bow roller, housed in the self-draining anchor locker is a very clever idea. I liked this along with the fact that the anchor locker can also be used for a ‘quick to get to’ fish storage chest. In addition, the huge storage capability under the helm seat provides more than ample room for a big chilly bin while still

leaving plenty of additional storage space for fenders, tackle boxes, spare life jackets, etc. But this vessel has been designed with the fisherman in mind. To this end, the fish bait cutting board and twin rod holder arrangement over the outboard fits the bill nicely. Take the bait board out and you’ll find that the sturdy bracket arrangement has been manufactured with a hole for a water ski pole. Not much the designer hasn’t thought about in this compact craft. Then there is the big feature. The whole boat is self-draining! This was hilariously proven when; just after I made a comment to Blair on the helm, as to how surprisingly dry I felt that the boat to be, he unintentionally depowered coming off the crest of a steep wave and plunged us into the subsequent trough, burying the bow into the back of the next wave with the inevitable wall of water flooding over the bow, crashing into the windscreen (which did its job remarkably well), but still allowing a goodly portion of water to wash over us. I quickly glanced around in time to witness this huge amount of water swiftly drain off the stern. Self-draining is superb. With self-draining this effective, what about any loose items on the boat being washed off the stern as well? Perhaps an easily detachable, optional “cargo net” which could be quickly snapped on or off as conditions dictated? Dreadnort Boats, a modern take on the name for the next generation of revolutionary powerboats!

There is an anchor locker in the foredeck with a detachable bow roller.

The Outboard Files: THE ICE AGE AND BEYOND

With the automotive industry currently racing towards a credible and viable alternative to the internal combustion engine (ICE) and zoning in rapidly, and maybe somewhat hastily and rashly, on an all-electric future, one would be tempted to think that the outboard industry – by virtue of the overlap and synergy with the landtransport sector enjoyed by three of the major manufacturers – would not be far behind in terms of opting for an electric or even hybrid solution, but that is possibly a rather simplistic supposition at present.

THE 2-STROKE: RIP OR JUST RESTING?

Before examining what technology may be waiting in the wings, one can say – well, I will say emphatically – that it will not, under any circumstances, involve any reincarnation or revamped iteration of 2-stroke technology. Firstly, let me go on the record and state that I still love, and have always loved, 2-stroke outboards (2-stroke anything, actually – even early Saabs and Eastern European cars!) – it is hard to beat the feel of frenzied, frenetic urgency as the engine spools up,

making one complete power cycle with one upward and one downward stroke of the piston (all done in only one crankshaft revolution). Then there is the intoxicating, heady, addictive concoction of oil, mixed with fuel, burning off through the morning dew and the dawn, or memories of the buzzy toing and froing in the seconds before flag-drop at a boat race, with an addictive and hedonistic blue, aromatic haze encroaching pungently yet sweetly on one’s nostrils. Forgive me – I was getting carried away with nostalgia from a halcyon era there…!

Danny Casey offers some thoughts on what the outboard of the immediate and not-too-distant future may be like, and why “trickledown” automotive technology may not always be the most logical step.

But, warm, fuzzy nostalgia aside, there is little reason to view the conventional 2-stroke outboard motor as anything other than noisy, smelly and inordinately thirsty. There have, of course, been progressive, innovative and much cleaner developments of 2-stroke technology, like the Orbitalderived Mercury Optimax and Tohatsu TLDI motors and other proprietary direct-injection systems like Yamaha’s HPDI, OMC’s Ficht/Ficht RAM and, latterly BRP’s E-Tec and G2 motors but, take it from me, this was deadend engineering, solely to circumvent emission-level hurdles before the major manufacturers had to bite the bullet and go all-in to develop 4-strokes. This “advanced” 2-stroke technology has been consigned to history and is now a firmly closed book.

Modern boaters do not want, and will no longer accept, what is known as “total-loss lubrication”, where oil has to be added separately - regardless of how infrequently - to a remote reservoir (not a conventional “oil bath” sump). Nor do they want their olfactory senses and eyes assailed with the sharp, tangy, acrid smell of synthetic oil being burned off as part of the combustion process.

BRP has, of course, stuck resolutely with DI 2-stroke technology for its new Rotax (originally Project “Ghost”) marine propulsion unit (not a conventional, vertically-oriented outboard in the true sense), so it is conceivable that they have done exhaustive market research and therefore maybe know something the rest of us don’t, but I am not the only one to believe that this product will go the way of the kerosene tractor or the Betamax cassette. This, however, is a specific subject which we can possibly

examine in a separate article. Although conventional 2-stroke development is dead in the outboard segment, one would not have to travel more than a couple of hours by air from these shores to see “new” 2-strokes still being used throughout the island nations of the South Pacific. In these nations, most of which do not implement or mandate strict emissions regulations, it is still possible to buy a brand new 2-stroke in the form of the venerable Yamaha Enduro models, Mercury Sea Pros, Mariner Marathons and Tohatsu EverRuns.

Until very recently, markets like PNG, The Solomon Islands and Vanuatu were still more than 60% 2-stroke oriented, with the ubiquitous Yamaha Enduro the marine equivalent of the Toyota Hilux. These old-design 2-stroke outboards are a huge cash cow and a lucrative source of guaranteed extra income for the outboard manufacturers, as the costs for design and tooling have all been amortised decades ago. The manufacturers know, however, that the days of old-technology 2-strokes are numbered pretty much everywhere and that the day of reckoning looms. To this end, they have been steadily drip-feeding 4-strokes (often not the current iteration but cleaner technology nonetheless) into these developing markets.

As 2-strokes start to disappear from boat ramps all over this region (and they already fast becoming an endangered species on the waterways around Sydney and Auckland), all we will be left with is memories – good, indelible memories which will be the marine equivalent of actually having to get out of one’s chair to change channels on the TV. No doubt about it, then; as far as the 2-stroke is concerned, it is most emphatically RIP.

ANY MILEAGE IN DIESEL?

There is, of course, “mileage” (literally) in diesel, as well as torque, durability and reliability – but I honestly can’t see diesel outboards ever being any more than a niche product. Furthermore, I would venture as far as to say that the chances of ever seeing large numbers of them on leisure boats is about as likely as Fiji opening an alpine ski resort that would have St Moritz filing for bankruptcy.

There is no doubt that diesel is by far the safest and most stable fuel one can carry on a boat, particularly in the case of inboards or sterndrives, as there will be no explosive vapours lurking low in the bilge that could be ignited by an errant spark from a battery or shorted starter motor. However, the huge initial cost of the engine – unless it is going to be used commercially over thousands of hours – means that a leisure user will never, ever recoup the cost of purchase. There is certainly the economy factor, with some diesels yielding over 45% thermal efficiency versus about 35% efficiency in a petrol engine (i.e. the diesel engine is almost 30% more efficient), but that characteristic aside, there is little that would compel the leisure boater to spend much (a lot) more money on an engine that will never go anywhere near paying for the difference in price over a petrol engine – not to mention that, in terms of the average 100-hour leisure-boat season, petrol is still one of the cheapest ingredients one can pour into a boat.

There is undoubtedly a market – albeit in a purely commercial context - for the 150-300 hp diesel outboards by OXE of Sweden (and, latterly, Atlanta, Georgia), the CXO 300 by Cox in the UK, and the German-origin 50 hp Neander DTorque 111, but these

engines will not be in the vanguard of an alternative fuel wave sweeping the outboard industry. Part of the problem is that there has been a huge consumer push-back on diesel in Europe, with the inordinately stringent (some even say unrealistic) standard of Euro 7 proposed for 2025. These regulations will take the form of vast reductions in the content of carbon monoxide (CO), total hydrocarbons (THC) and nitrogen oxides (NOx). Whilst trucks will have to make a concerted effort to comply with the Euro 7 diesel regulations, car manufacturers like BMW, MercedesBenz and Volkswagen realise that the writing is on the wall for diesel automotive engines and that hybrid or electric will be the only realistic avenues to follow.

If and when the lightweight, highperformance diesel engines from Europe cease to exist, there will be no platforms around which highoutput diesel outboards could be economically developed.

The UK would theoretically have been an ideal market for diesel outboards, as there had always been greatly reduced excise duty on offroad or marine diesel fuel (traditionally dyed red and latterly green), but this status has been rescinded in recent years – so now offroad/marine diesel is the same price as road fuel and there is no cost benefit to running a diesel-powered boat. Ironically, this mandate actually resulted in a substantial increase in the number of high-horsepower petrol outboards being sold in the UK, as many owners of large diesel-engine boats offloaded them once offroad diesel lost its special excise status, but

they still wanted to keep boating and many bought large outboard-powered RIBs instead.

The chances of a mainstream outboard manufacturer committing to a diesel unit are next to non-existent. Yes; Mercury does sell a commercial/ military outboard that runs on diesel fuel, but it is a multi-fuel engine that retains spark ignition. Mercury could do a full-on diesel outboard if they so wished, as they supply sterndrive units to Hyundai for the latter’s SeasAll marine diesel range and could theoretically buy the rights to one of the Hyundai power units. I think this unlikely, however. Furthermore, none of the Japanese manufacturers will touch diesel with a bargepole –Honda in particular has never had any affection for the diesel engine and the Japanese do not buy diesel cars. There is a lot to be said for diesel outboards in NATO, military or police applications, particularly with the NATO policy mandating a single fuel type, and this same premise would apply also to the likes of superyachts (where carrying petrol for on-board toys like RIBs and PWCs has an element of risk) – but the overall adoption and acceptance of diesel outboards will be marginal and specialised. I cannot see how there will ever be enough economies of scale – in terms of volume – to make diesel outboards both affordable and more mainstream. The technology and execution are excellent but will remain the “quirky” preserve of pioneers – like those who bought diesel Peugeots and Benzes when they were curios.

CAN BATTERIES DELIVER?

With the headlong rush of automotive manufacturers to embrace electrical motive power, one might think that the future has already been predetermined and mapped out – but this is not so. Whilst I know (or think I know!) a not unreasonable amount about engines of the internal combustion variety, I would be the first to admit that my knowledge of new-technology electric motors and drive systems is, at best, patchy, limited and, at worst, coloured with a fair degree of wary scepticism. Leaving aside for a moment the huge global footprint and wanton damage to the earth’s surface which will result from the large-scale mining necessary to rip from the ground the precious metals (cobalt, lithium, nickel, manganese, graphite) required to make suitable batteries, it must also be borne in mind that clean air, like clean anything, comes at a price (literally a dollar value). Even the most ardent and fervid pro-EV lobbyists in Europe are now beginning to realise that every EV needs a reliable charger; that every charger needs a reliable and cheap power supply, and that such a power supply can only be generated by power stations. And the best, most effective, most reliable and most economical power stations are all powered by – wait for it – coal!

In what is one of the most ironic dichotomies ever, so committed are the Germans, for example, to EVs, that they have had to recommission at least a dozen coal-fired power stations which had been mothballed – it’s the only way to guarantee a reliable electricity supply. Granted Putin’s

Evoy recently released a 300hp electric outboard.

antics may have done more than a little to prompt this, but the Germans know that if the supply of electricity stops, then their industries, their daily lives and their EVs will grind to a halt. Another German company, other than Volkswagen, which has enthusiastically and proactively embraced the potential of electric power is the diesel engine company, Deutz, which has owned Torqeedo, the electric outboard manufacturer, since late 2017. Of all the current and mooted manufacturers of electric outboards, I feel that Torqeedo – due to the financial backing of Deutz and the head-start it has had in the sphere – is probably the one I’d tip for greatest success. I don’t know how practicable or viable a high-output electric motor from Torqeedo or anyone else would be (elaboration on this later), but there is a huge, ready-made, existing market for the mainly portable units currently produced by Torqeedo.

As outlined in a previous article, I feel that Torqeedo will undoubtedly start to capture market share in the light portable 2-15 hp segment –particularly if all that is needed is a motor to push a tender a short distance from a jetty or beach to a large boat. In such a case, electric would be an intelligent, logical and conscientious choice. If short runs are all an owner envisages, then why bother with filling a fuel tank or opening a fuel tap, then setting a throttle to the “start” position before finally pulling the starting cord? Not to mention that a portable electric outboard can be stored safely in the lazarette of a yacht or launch with no fear of dangerous fuel vapour or spillage. And if one does indeed have the good fortune to be able to drop hundreds of thousands of dollars into a new flybridge cruiser, launch or trawler yacht, and if one wishes to display and propagate an environmental conscience to soothe one’s guilt, then an electric outboard makes a strong statement.

Once Torqeedo starts to attract viable competitors, and the prices of lithium-ion batteries (and the outboards with which they are equipped) eventually correct downward, then there is little doubt that every single one of the major internal-combustion outboard manufacturers will start to see an inexorable encroachment into their portable segment – however, the only way this will ever be known for certain is if/when the importers of electric outboards start to supply their monthly figures to the industry statistics body. The matter of high-output electric outboards is a different, complex and fraught subject. Such a concept is possible, and has indeed been executed quite well, but all projects so far have involved the purchase of a conventional outboard motor, the discarding of its internal combustion power unit, and the installation of an electric motor in place of the ICE. In August 2022, the American racer, Shaun Torrente, set a world record of 109 MPH in a catamaran powered by two Vision E-Motion electric outboards – which appeared to have been derived from the new 115/140 hp Tohatsu.

But this is where I have to plead ignorance on the whole creation and set-up of boats with lithium-ion power. How big are the batteries? How bulky or heavy are they? Where do the batteries go? Do they go under the floor instead of the fuel tank? Are they bonded/sandwiched into the floor? Or does the outer case of the batteries actually double as the floor of the boat? Also, in addition to the motive batteries (most likely lithiumion or a derivative thereof), will the boat still require conventional leadacid or AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries to power the electronics, nav lights, bilge pump and radio etc.? If such conventional batteries are still required, how would they be charged? I would also want my fears addressed on what would happen if the boat started to take on water and sink. Would the occupants receive an electric shock? Would marine life in the water close to the sinking boat receive an electric shock? Would the occupants of any aluminium boats nearby receive an electric shock? Currently too many variables, unknowns and issues of concern, I feel…

I also think that for high-output electric outboards, a large degree of cooperative synergy and shared collaboration will undoubtedly be required between the engine supplier and the boat builder. Such projects would therefore need to be comprehensive, intertwined joint ventures – there is no way a boat can be easily fitted with a large electric outboard in the same way as any ICE outboard can be chosen and conveniently installed. For this reason, I think it’d be a brave boatbuilder who would go all-in with a fledgling, neophyte electric outboard manufacturer to develop a unitary ready-to-go product. In short, then, whilst the portable segment may see some seismic shifts in the not-too-distant future, I can’t see the main players being overly worried about these start-ups offering alternative power sources for highspeed or offshore boating. Weight, incorporation/integration of the boat and motor and offshore “range anxiety” (a heart-palpitating condition familiar to every EV user) should keep the ICE outboard a strong player for many years to come.

CAN HYDROGEN HELP?

In the frenzied clamour towards electrical motive power, one automotive name (the biggest automotive name of all, in fact) is glaringly low-key and maybe even absent – Toyota. Some international automotive pundits and diehard EV proponents have collectively opined that Toyota is dragging its heels, has missed the boat, and will be a follower rather than a leader in the electrification of the automobile. But to that I say one thing: anyone who writes off or dismisses Toyota’s direction and policies is a fool. Toyota has always been, and remains, the prime advocate for hybrids (i.e. ICE and electric engines in synergy) and the Prius and Camry are sterling examples of its resounding success in this sphere. And whilst Toyota is certainly not against total electrification (and will have no commercial alternative other than to enter the sector), it emphatically believes that the ICE can be cleaned up to the point that it will have no environmental impact at all as it operates. Naturally this cannot be done with relatively dirty fuels like diesel or gasoline, as combustion, no

matter how clean or “neutered” the engine, will result in toxic emissions. It could, however, be done with hydrogen and, to this end, Toyota is just one of several manufacturers (Suzuki and Subaru are the other two in Japan and Hyundai/Kia is the main proponent in South Korea) carrying out research on hydrogen fuel cells. At first glance, hydrogen is an ideal fuel source. It has a high energy content and is extremely clean – emitting only “pure” water from a vehicle’s tailpipe that is theoretically clean enough to drink. Drawbacks, however, are that despite having a high energy content, the energy per unit volume is low in comparison with liquid fuels. Therefore, hydrogen must be greatly compressed and pressurised, and liquefied to such an extent that the tank or reservoir holding the hydrogen has to be much heavier than the weight of hydrogen held therein. This pressurised storage (which can cause leakage), coupled with low-ignition and high-combustion energy, means there is always the imminent risk of a severe explosion (just think of the Hindenburg airship). Until the issues with the reliable storage and delivery of hydrogen are resolved, it won’t be a mainstream power source in the near future (it will happen sooner or later, though), but as the three Japanese companies – Toyota, Suzuki and Subaru – are reportedly engaged in this research collectively, there will undoubtedly and eventually be a niche for hydrogen-powered vehicles. But as a fuel for outboards? Not as long as I’m alive.

WHY NOT STICK WITH WHAT WE HAVE?

As an industry, the outboard motor sector is much, much too small to innovate, develop and see through to fruition alternatively-fuelled or alternatively-powered units. If we take, as just two automotive examples, Subaru and Mazda, these companies are classified as lowish-volume automobile manufactures but still each one produces close to 1.5 million vehicles per annum. To put that into perspective, each of those companies manufactures more units singly than are produced by all manufacturers in the entire outboard industry – the total world market for outboards is just over 850,000 units per annum.

Although currently unlikely, it is not beyond the bounds of possibility that

the three Japanese companies who also manufacture automotive engines (Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha) could eventually “trickle down” some EV or hybrid automotive to their outboard lines, but if so, that would not happen until there is a directive for them to so do – after all, why would one unnecessarily and expensively address an issue which one had not yet been asked to address? The reality is that in terms of damage to the environment, a modern 4-cycle outboard is as efficient, environmentally-friendly and clean as it is possible to be. The “pollution” emitting from outboards is but a drop in the ocean in comparison with the diesel and heavy oil being consumed by, and leaking from, commercial vessels worldwide.

Other than further development and reworking of the current ICE outboard platforms, I can’t honestly see the industry as a whole investing in the creation of completely new models (there is too much international uncertainty in all spheres, for one thing), but I would expect to see current model/derivative gaps in everyone’s ranges plugged and horsepower outputs taken as high as they can go within current platform constraints.

If one were to examine the supposed pollution (noxious and aural) caused by boating, it would pale into insignificance in comparison with what is emitted relatively, scale-wise and percentagewise, from the likes of chainsaws, whipper-snippers and other power equipment. The outboard industry has progressively and proactively shown the environment enormous respect – it has, after all, virtually and voluntarily killed the 2-stroke – but I would suggest that it is not beyond the realms of possibility or current technology to further “clean up” all existing 4-strokes a little should such a change ever be mandated.

It could possibly be that, lurking around the corner, there is a wholly revolutionary, ruthlessly efficient, environmentally-friendly and viable product that will create an entirely new standard and genre but it’d take some doing to better the integrity and environmental empathy built into what we are using today. I can honestly say, therefore, that I can see no reason why my kids will not be able to confidently, enthusiastically and conscionably purchase an ICE outboard motor to pursue their own boating dreams.

KEEP OR RELEASE

A GUIDE TO ENHANCING YOUR CATCH

IKI SPIKE

This little tool is first in line to keep your catch in top eating quality. They can be bought at any tackle shop (Kilwell make a great little Iki Spike) or if you like, you can fashion one out of an old Philips screwdriver. It’s basically a thin steel shaft with a handle.

If you have caught a nice plump healthy snapper and are keeping it to eat, before taking the hook out drive the iki spike into the fishes brain killing it instantly.

Lately there is hardly a week goes by without discussion in the media about the state of our fish stocks. Taking out all the bullshit coming from some interested parties in these discussions and doing a fair bit of reading between the lines, it would seem that in some areas of the country fish stocks certainly aren’t that great.

Taking into account the daily costs of going fishing e.g. fuel, tackle, bait, lures, plus all the general costs of keeping a boat up to scratch, it seems only logical to keep the fish you do catch in prime eating condition. Off course you can always go and buy fish, but with snapper fetching up to NZ$42 a kilo and the uncertainty of just how fresh it is, if you are able to catch your own very fresh fish with all the fun that involves, it seems a much better option to me.

Catching the fish is one thing. Looking after the ones you are going to return to the sea or as importantly the ones you are going to keep requires some finesse if you want to keep the fish in good condition.

A fish killed instantly with an iki spike suffers a lot less stress.

The brain on a snapper is about 20mm above and behind the eye, you will know when the brain has been pierced, as the fish will go ridged and the tail will curl up. You can now simply remove the hook from a dead unmoving fish, easy.

I have seen many people using a fillet or bait knife for this purpose, I have also seen the results of a greasy hand slipping down the blade when trying to iki fish with a knife, its not pretty. Simple answer don’t use knifes for this job.

A fish killed instantly with an iki spike suffers a lot less stress and put on ice will always taste better than a fish left to die slowly in an open bin out in the sun.

come in all shapes and sizes and in a big price range.

SALT ICE

Ice made with salted water freezes at a much lower temperature than fresh water, therefore it takes longer to melt. Because of this salt content and lower temperature it is the perfect ice to chill down fish, keeping that just caught freshness locked in. There are a few ways to achieve this. After loosening up the ice put a thin layer along the bottom of the bin, then lay your fish on it, after that cover your catch with another layer of ice, if you’ve had a real good day, repeat the process with more fish then more ice.

The second method is to grab half a bucket of salt water straight out of the ocean and pour it into your chilly bin, then shake out a bag of loose ice into the bin turning the water and ice into a slurry and place your fish into this.

Salt slurry cools fish down very quickly, setting the flesh and keeping it very fresh and safe to eat.

FILLETING

Having fish well chilled down and the flesh nice and firm makes the job of filleting so much easier. I will quite often leave my catch on ice overnight, and fillet them the following day if time allows. Firm flesh comes off a fish frame a lot easier than unchilled fish, which is quite rubbery when fresh. Although it may sound strange the most dangerous knife is a blunt knife. Your fillet knives should be razor sharp. Sharp blades go through firm flesh like hot butter, making the filleting process a lot simpler, they will take the fillet off cleanly and leave very little flesh on the fish frame. Trying to force a blunt knife through a fish is when nasty accidents can occur, so keep your knives really sharp.

I put my fish frames, skin, and gut in a plastic bag and put them straight into the freezer. Then I either dump them at sea next time I am out fishing, or in the bin on rubbish day, it keeps every thing clean and tidy with no smell.

COOLERS

Coolers come in all shapes and sizes and in a big price range. Many fishermen tend to go for the longer style bins rather than square as fish fit into these better. As for size, something in the 50 to 90 litres range seems to suit most boats and catch limits.

Cost is a whole different ball game If you regularly just go out for a few hours then you can possibly get away with a cheaper brand, but if your out all day or even overnighting for a couple of days then your going to need a bin of a much higher quality with far superior insulation.

There are many good brands out there that are ideally suited to the recreational fisho, that are almost commercial in build, but they will keep your fish cold for days on end. They also make a great extra seat if needed and are well worth the money.

RELEASING FISH

Releasing fish is more than simply removing the hook and tossing them back from whence they came. A little care is important, whether the fish is undersize, or you need to put it back because you have your quota. I often put back big snapper as the old ones don’t really taste as good as the youngies.

Lets assume you have had a good day, and a good feed is in the chilly bin but the fish are still biting and there’s the odd big one in the school so you want to keep fishing and having fun. This is where the art of releasing fish safely so they will survive comes in.

If you're not using them already you will now need to switch to recurve or circle hooks, these hooks will generally always hook up in the corner of the jaw making them easy to remove with little damage to the fish. Striking with this type of hook isn’t really necessary, as these hooks naturally roll into the corner of the fish’s mouth when it takes the bait. If your using lures like softbaits, or slow jigs these also tend to always hook up in the mouth or lips, so again are easy to remove. One tool you will find invaluable for removing hooks is pair of long nosed pliers. You may want to shout yourself a good pair of stainless ones, but a cheep pair of steel ones from your local hardware store will do the job. You will just have to clean and oil them after each use that’s all. A good trick is to use these pliers to flatten down the barb on the hooks making them really easy to remove, just keep a good steady pressure on the rod and you wont loose to many fish. Most fish have a protective slime coating on the outside of their skin. Holding fish with your bare hands removes this

coating allowing bacteria to penetrate its skin and making the fish susceptible to disease. Far better to use wet cotton gloves or hold the fish about to be released with a wet cloth or small wet towel. If you lay the fish on a wet towel or cloth while the hook is removed - covering the fish's eyes often helps to calm it down.

If you must touch the fish make sure your hands are wet or use a wet cloth or wet gloves between you and the fish. Never touch a fish's gills, they are extremely delicate and just touching them can damage them. If you hold the fish by the base of the tail and under the head with wet hands, you will do he least damage the fish. Never, ever, not even once, lift a fish out of the water by holding the belly area. You will almost certainly damage internal organs. It reduces survival chances dramatically.

Using a net to land fish for releasing also takes the pressure off them, and if you bring a big one to the surface, try not lifting it into the boat but use the pliers to remove the hook while it lies quietly alongside the boat. There are some excellent nets available now, with the soft flexible rubber ones, minimises fish stress and tangled hooks. Rough, hard netting will remove slime and scales from the fish, which is its natural protection against parasites and infection. Should you want some photos of your big fish and who wouldn’t, just remember this fish is probably exhausted after a long fight so will need looking after really well if you wish to release it to survive. The faster you can get a fish to the boat the better its chances of survival. The longer the fight the less chance the fish has of surviving. Get it back into the water ASAP and make sure it swims away strongly, those big ones are our breeders and our grandkids will be sure pissed off if we kill all them off, leaving few for there fishing days in the future. Never throw a fish back but gently hold it in the water until it finds the energy to swim away on its own.

THE BLADDER ISSUE

The very information fishing website, fishing.net.nz offer a clear explanation on how to treat a belly-up fish that is suffering from an over-inflated swim bladder, and can not swim back down to from whence it came This is caused by the gas contained in the swim bladder expanding due to the rapid reduction in pressure that occurs when a fish is brought from the depths to the surface. It’s a simple concept: the deeper the water, the greater the change in pressure; the greater the change in pressure, the more the swim bladder expands and the more it affects the fish.

The swim bladder is quite a fancy organ. In most of the species we catch here in New Zealand, including snapper, the swim bladder is completely closed off to the outside environment. Fish inflate and deflate it via a gas gland, which draws gases out of the blood and into the bladder (and vice versa) to regulate their buoyancy.

Fish and many other animals are known to exhibit a behavioural trait know as ‘atonic immobility’, a phenomenon whereby – subject to certain physical cues – they enter a trance-like state of natural and reversible paralysis. It is the reason many fish stop flapping when held upside down. What this means is that in many cases a snapper that is ‘dead’ and floating on the surface can be perfectly healthy, just a bit buoyant and in a reversible state of paralysis. So how do we overcome these issues when releasing a big snapper?

Another remedy some may be familiar with is popping the swim bladder to expel excess gas. This is a good option and usually fixes the buoyancy issue fairly promptly, allowing a fish to swim back down under its own power. A major issue with this technique, however, is that most people don’t do it properly and end up popping the gut cavity with a grubby bait knife, or piercing the stomach, which is poking through the mouth.

The only way to properly ‘vent’ (expel gas from the swim bladder) a snapper is by inserting a clean hypodermic needle through the side of the fish and directly into the swim bladder itself. It’s not a terribly tricky procedure once you know what you are doing.

Next time you are filleting a snapper, take note of where the swim bladder is located – it is always right at the top of the gut cavity. It’s easy to locate on a whole live snapper, as it is roughly in line with the pectoral fin when it’s laid flat along the fish’s side. You can also feel the swim bladder by running your hand down the side of the fish and feeling for where the denser muscle meets the softer gut wall. The best place to insert the needle is about halfway along where the pectoral fin lays flat and slightly down from the top of the gut cavity.

PROTECTING OUR PRIZED RESOURCE

One tool you will find invaluable for removing hooks is pair of long nosed pliers.

I strongly believe the fish around our coastal waters belong to the people of New Zealand, and recreational fishermen should be first in line with the commercial fishing sector taking a back seat. I’m sure this political hot potato will be fought long and hard into our fishing future so in the meantime take care and look after your edible catch for it’s a very prized resource.

THE FACTS ABOUT PORTABLE ELECTRIC COOLERS

Portable coolers are not “ice chests.” That’s why they’re particularly useful for the boating application. There’s no need for ice in the cooler, which can take up half the space otherwise available for cold storage.

Portability is what electric cooler bins are all about.

They’re in effect portable refrigerators and that makes them good for boaties because you can go out for days or weeks without concern about replenishing ice for cooling — unless you need some for your rum and coke. And even actual ice needs are covered by many models, which include a freezer compartment, just like your refrigerator at home. Ice cream afloat? Why not, so long as your battery power holds out?

Many portable refrigerator-coolers include a portable power supply which allows them to operate on the beach when your guests enjoy a shore lunch.

The coolers run on 12-volt power and most are plug-and-play connecting via a cigarette-lighter type plug as needed. Many also include an adapter so they can run on AC power if you have a generator or when you can connect to shore power. Some also offer light-weight portable batteries as part of the package. These batteries power the cooler and have USB connections.

A 12V refrigerator usually uses 30 to 55 Amp/hours on average per day. A typical 1100Wh portable power station lets you run a 12V portable fridge for at least a day. However, a portable fridge will consume battery power when used at high ambient temperature or without precooling, so plan accordingly.

Most quality portable coolers include a cut-off device that senses when your boat or vehicle battery is getting low and shuts off the power to the refrigerator. You won’t be stuck with a dead battery

and an engine that won’t start. Add solar panels and your cooler may never run out of juice. (You’ll also want a dedicated battery to store the solar power when the sun is shining so it will keep your refrigerator running through the night or on rainy days.) A 100W or larger solar panel and a minimum 40Ah battery will do the job for most portable refrigerator/freezers suitable for marine use.

To determine how long the battery will power a cooler check the average energy consumption per hour (Ah/h). This is the amount of energy the cooler will use in one hour for the given internal and ambient temperature. Divide your battery’s usable capacity (Ah) by the average energy consumption (Ah/h) to get the number of hours of run time.

Norcold offer a variety of sizes.

Wheels and a handle make this portable fridge/freezer very mobile.

CORROSION RESISTANCE

Some refrigerator-freezers are made primarily for camping ashore and may have painted carbon-steel housings that will rust or corrode in a marine environment. While these are OK for use aboard if you keep them in a cabin or compartment, they won’t fare well for long-term use on an open deck, particularly around saltwater. Those with composite exteriors, on the other hand, are impervious to salt and denting and most are water resistant to allow safe washdown without affecting the interior cooling components.

Electrical Standards

There are new Electrical Standards Regulations are for 12/24V as well as 12/24 240V fridge Freezers

While some of the major brands models meet these, but there are other brands available that do not – who knows what trouble these could cause down the track – and what Insurance implications are involved for anyone fitting a unit that does not meet the Electrical Standards . So we say, “ buyer beware”…

(Above & below) The Dometic CFX ranges from 25 litre through to 75 litre capacity.

Engel offer a range of combo fridge/ freezers.

How Refrigerator-Freezers

Compare to Ice Chests

Super-durable, high-end roto-moulded ice chests are on comparable price to some smaller portable refrigerators. The heavily-insulated ice chests can hold ice for up to a week. However, they’re relatively heavy empty, at around 13.61 kg for the 53-L models. By the time you add much ice at all, they will be heavier than a portable refrigeratorfreezer of comparable size, and will have lost 1/3 or more of their available storage volume to the ice.

How to Buy a Portable That Suits You and Your Boat

Consider the following factors when choosing the right portable refrigerator-freezer for your boating:

STORAGE CAPACITY:

What are you going to put in the fridge, and how much space will it need?

Weight: If you have to carry the unit from your vehicle to your boat loaded with food, a pair of wheels will be much appreciated. If it will stay aboard, a larger, heavier unit will be less of an issue.

POWER SOURCE:

Most portable fridges come with adapters for AC and DC supply, but be you’re your batteries are up to the job of handling the added load or invest in a dedicated battery that will only supply the cooler.

DURABILITY/WARRANTY:

Composite, water-resistant housings are best for portables that will be used on boats, particularly around saltwater. And check the warranty — some are only 12 months, others up to three years.

ENTRY LEVEL HARDTOP

As the hardtop evolution continues, so do the brands on offer and the choice is becoming harder and more complex for buyers. While in essence they are all designed for a similar purpose, every boat is different and each possesses some trait that either will or will not appeal to you. One company that has been building hardtops for many years and takes huge stock in customer feedback is Sportcraft Boats Ltd, manufacturer of the Scorpion brand.

The 610 has proven a very successful hull for Scorpion and apart from the hardtop model is also available as a centre console and in various cabin versions. Jamie Black,

MD of Sportcraft Boats Ltd, says that the 610HT was designed with specific criteria.

“First it had to have a 5mm hull to ensure softness of ride, a cabin with bunks long enough to sleep on, but still having a big working space in the cockpit.

“We achieved the right balance between cabin and cockpit by putting on a small hardtop, which not only cuts down the windage while underway, but maximised cockpit fishing room while offering the protection expected from a hardtop”, says Jamie.

It was also important to be able to offer the boat with as little as 90hp, while still achieving adequate

The Scorpion 610 HT is the biggest selling boat in the expansive Scorpion range and has been designed unashamedly towards the fishing enthusiast.

performance. To be honest I was quite surprised with the power choice. When I first saw the Scorpion 610HT, I thought I would find at least a 115hp or even a 140hp outboard on the transom. Not so. Here was a 2-stroke carburetted Mercury 90hp, which on first impression seemed a little small on horsepower for a boat of that size. Again, not so!

ENGINE CHOICE

Jamie pointed out that the Mercury range of four stroke engines gives the necessary grunt to pick the 610HT up onto the plane. You have the choice if a single outboard from 90hp through to 115hp. While the earlier 610s were often powered with 90-115hp Optimax, as the Optimax engine is no longer available, today they come standard with a 90hp 4S. If you want to upgrade to 100hp It's a $750 upgrade and $2150 to a 115 4S However I don’t really think you need the extra horsepower, as the Scorpion 610 HT runs exceptionally well with the lower

horsepower. On a mirror smooth Tauranga harbour the 610HT slipped easily onto the plane at around 2500 rpm, with a very low transition. From a standard start and the throttle pushed all the way forward, the acceleration was impressive for a boat of this size and with only 90hp.

“While we find that the 90hp engine is more than suitable for most people, we do recommend that if you are crossing bars or boating with, say there or four divers all the time, then a 115hp or even a 125hp outboard is a better choice to compensate for the extra weight”, said Jamie.

Top speed was a respectable 38 mph @ 5500 rpm and on the calm waters both in the harbour and outside where there was a long, low swell. I found in the open water the best cruise around 26mph @ 4500 rpm and there was still plenty in reserve if I needed to suddenly use more throttle. The three-blade 18” Vengeance propeller proved the perfect match for the 90hp Mercury.

Opposite Page: The 610HT is unquestionably a perfect package for any fisho.

This page: A great cockpit for fishing with battery and tanks all neatly out of the way.

There are good sized boarding platforms either side of the outboard pod.

We used a new VW Amarok to tow the Scorpion 610HT.

The cabin offers great height and 2m long berths.

Plenty of space for large MFD screens.

BALANCED LAYOUT

The designers have certainly achieved what they wanted in providing a boat that offers a balanced layout between cabin comforts and a workable and efficient cockpit. Up front the twin 2m berths offer a genuine option for overnight accommodation and with an optional infill you end up with a very large double berth. There is good storage under the squabs, plenty of natural light from the overhead Maxwell hatch and a generous 1.27m sitting headroom.

“We get a lot of comments from clients that say the generous height in the cabin and the length of the squabs, yet still retaining a very big cockpit are some of the factors in their decision to buy the boat”, says Jamie.

The interior is fully lined ,with no hint of alloy anywhere, a cabin light is standard and the aft bulkheads provide both extra storage and access to the rear of the helm. You have the option of an electric or portable toilet under the centre squabs plus a privacy curtain.

Access through the forward hatch for anchoring is okay, but in a boat this size I would opt for a full windlass so you never have to leave the helm. While the standard boat comes with an open anchor locker, if you fit a windlass the whole bin can be sealed.

The hardtop, as already explained, was designed to maximise the cockpit fishing space, but still offering sun and all weather protection and on all counts it works well. By not having it fully enclosed on the sides not only cuts down the windage but it also means you can fish from the driver’s seat. The long hardtop is the perfect place for the aerials

and a built in rod rack. Toughened glass forward screens and a pre-mount means they are all ready to accept a wiper should you require one. I wouldn’t have a boat like this without one, preferably two!

The large flat helm offers space for up to a 12” MFD screen and all the instruments and switches you’d need in a boat this size. There is a large storage area forward, with a full-width alloy handrail offering some extra security for your passengers. I commented to Jamie that I would like to see an upstand to stop small items falling back into the cockpit, something that is now planned for all 610s in the future. On both sides there is a small shelf for your keys, phone and other accessories.

Twin Hi-Tech seats with upholstered cushions mounted on fibreglass bases are standard, but you do have the option of back-to-backs should you require more seating. “Most boats seem to have the twin swivelling forward bucket seats and a padded removable fish/esky bin, which gives you seating for four, but can be left at home if you want more fishing space”, says Jamie.

FLAT SIDE DECKS

Storage in the cockpit is limited to full-length side trays, with optional rod racks available and a transom shelf that also contains the battery. I particularly liked the wide, flat side decks, which is something that fishos will really appreciate.

While there is no fuel capacity under the treadplate floor as all the space is taken up with air buoyancy, there is room for a pair of 45L tote tanks under the transom deck. These take up no more floor space than the standard 25L tanks.

Naturally, being an alloy boat there is the option to change the design of the transom area with the addition of bait tanks and walkthough options. The standard boat doesn’t have any of that, apart from a good sized boarding platform either side of the outboard pod, convenient hand holds, plus a drop-down ladder. The outboard pod is a great place to hold the scallops or mussels until you get

home, or you can use it as a berley bin.

It's a few years since the Scorpion 610 first appeared, but the metamorphosis over that period has resulted in a much improved boat. The hull has been changed to a more pronounced gull-wing design with wider chines to improve stability and offer a softer and drier ride. The hardtop also has an allnew look.

The 610HT takes the design to a new level and is unquestionably a perfect package for any fisho looking for an extremely well priced, well finished and well proportioned entry level hardtop boat.

The anchor locker can be left open or fitted with a capstan/winch.

Twin moulded seats are standard and there’s space under the aft deck for twin 45 litre tote tanks.

SPECIFICATIONS

Model Scorpion 610HT

Priced from $NZ67250 (90hp 4S)

Type Hardtop

Construction 5mm/3mm

LOA 6.10m Beam 2.30m

Deadrise 17 degrees

Height on trailer 2.85m

Trailerable weight 1100kg (approx.)

Power 90hp Mercury 4-stroke

Power options 90hp-115hp

Fuel capacity Tote tank

Manufacturer Sportcraft Boats Limited, Ph 07 928 7193

SPORTCRAFTBOATS.CO.NZ

CHOOSING A boat trailer

If you are looking to replace your boat trailer or need one for your new boat, we offer tips and hints on what to look for when buying a new one.

Your trailer boat comprises three major components. The boat, the engine and the trailer. Of all three, the one most neglected and will need to be replaced sometime is the trailer. Boat trailers used constantly in salt water and with little care and maintenance may have a shelf life of not much more than ten years. That's not to say that if you look after your trailer, it will not last twice that, especially if you use your boat in fresh water. Replacing a trailer is also about ensuring that the trailer you are replacing the old one with is suitable for your boat. There are many different brands available

from local and imported manufacturers, so it pays to check what you are buying. A quality new New Zealand trailer for a 5.5m boat will set you back around $7000, and if you need to reshoe your 7m hardtop, you can expect to pay anything from $15000.

There are several options. Firstly if you are doing a total replacement from the tow ball coupling to the taillights, the trailer supplier will need your boat dimensions, and they can sort out a suitable trailer.

You may think all your running gear is okay, but the steel galvanised frame is past its used-by date. Yes, it is much cheaper to bolt all your

existing componentry onto a new frame, but be warned that old axle, suspension, coupling and rollers may not be as good as you think and also be due for replacement. If you are looking at a new frame, go all the way and replace the lot. A trailer can significantly enhance the boating experience because it eliminates having to rent a dry stack berth and allows the owner to travel long distances to boat in new waters. A good trailer adds value to a boat, creating a complete package. Choosing the right trailer isn't rocket science, but there are important criteria that factor into the decision.

STERNDRIVE CHANGES

Size Matters

Trailers are classified by length and weight. The length is easy to figure out. Use a tape measure or contact the boat manufacturer. The weight includes more than just the boat – remember to add in the engine, weight of fuel, water and gear. The gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is the maximum weight the trailer is rated to carry. For safety, add 15% extra weight.

Tongue weight

refers to how heavy the front of the trailer is. It should always be between 5% and 10 % of the total boatand-trailer package. If it is lighter than that, the trailer could sway back and forth as it's rolling down the road, which can be dangerous.

Single or Multiple Axles

Trailers with one axle are for smaller boats. Typically, a single-axle trailer can accommodate a boat up to 6m with a max weight of 2 tonnes. They cost less, require less maintenance and are easier to move around manually than tandem-axle models. Trailers with two or more axles are for larger boats. They track better on the road, are generally lower and prove safer when travelling. Brakes make it easier to keep a trailer under control, and many experts recommend that multi axle trailers have brakes on all axles. Brakes are a requirement in New Zealand if your trailerable weight is over 2500kgs. Surge brakes, or override brakes, have proven reliable up to 2500 kgs.

A

With a multi-roller trailer you don’t have to go in too deep.

Real Steel

Boat trailers come in two types of material, galvanised steel or aluminium. The galvanised trailer is the most common but heavier than aluminium. Aluminium is also more expensive, but with its weight advantage over galvanised steel, it is a popular option on larger trailer boats.

Bunks or Rollers

Trailers come with one of two support systems, rollers or bunks. The Kiwi favourite is certainly multi-rollers, while the US manufacturers favour bunks. A trailer with rollers is considered easier to load. Bunks are thought to provide better support for the hull but can be an issue launching, especially off a beach or a low-gradient boat ramp. Bunks are usually covered in carpet, and some have plastic tops to make it easier for the boat to slide onto and off. However, rollers are much easier to slide a boat on and off a trailer. In New Zealand, they are the most common option.

Get Hitched

Most trailers connect to the tow vehicle with a hitch that clamps to a ball on the bumper or frame-mounted receiver hitch. Most New Zealand trailer hitches require a 50mm or a 1 7/8" ball.

LED lights

are now the norm on trailers, and the old traditional incandescent lights are all but obsolete. For wiring, look for tinned copper and ensure all holes in the trailer frame have suitable rubber grommets or other chafe protection.

Worthwhile Accessories

A windup jockey wheel that bolts to the front of the drawbar make it easy to lift the trailer on and off the tow ball. A spare tire and mount can mean the difference between making it to the ramp or home. We highly recommend that all trailers have a spare tyre. A walk board or plank down the trailer's centre makes it easy to access the winching eye. Guide poles attached to the sides of a trailer make it easier to put back on the trailer. This helps when you need help seeing the end of the trailer when backing down the ramp. They are also ideal when you have wind or tide issues

Futura

when retrieving your boat.

An electric winch is a good option, especially on larger trailer boats, and you might even consider the Kiwi invented Balex auto boat loading system. Both make retrieval that much less stressful. Bearing savers such as the genuine Bearing Buddies (watch out for imitations) can extend the life of a trailer by keeping the wheel bearings bathed in a constant supply of grease. Also, ensure you have good secure tie downs because if you don't, the boat can be classified as an unsecured load, which could have insurance ramifications if you have an accident.

BLADERUNNER

5 mm HT 10.0m Cat 3.50m 6mm HT 12.0m Cat 4.10m 6mm HT and Custom

BLUEFIN

Bluefin 620CC 6.20m 2.30m 5mm CC

Bluefin 620HT 6.20m 2.50m 5mm HT

Bluefin 650HT 6.50m 2.45m 5mm HT Bluefin 665HT 6.65m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluefin 700HT 7.10m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluefin 720HT 7.20m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluefin 720 WK 7.20m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluefin 769HT 7.69m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluefin 769 WH 7.69m 2.50m 5mm HT

BLUEWATER

Bluewater 5.4 5.90m 2.30m 5mm CA Bluewater 550 5.60m 2.30m 5mm CU Bluewater 5.8 6.00m 2.30m 5mm CA Bluewater 5.9 6.40m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 6.1 6.60m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 6.5 6.70m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 6.8 7.00m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 7.3 7.50m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 7.5 7.70m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 7.7 8.00m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 8.5 8.70m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 8.9 9.10m 2.50m 5mm HT Bluewater 9.3 9.50m 2.80m

EVERYMAN

5.65m 2.05m 5mm CU/CC/HT

5.95m 2.35m 5mm CU/CC/HT

6.35m 2.35m 5mm CU/CC/HT

6.55m 2.45m 6mm CA/CC/HT/WA

6.90m 2.50m 6mm HT/CC

5.4 5.40m 2.33m 5mm C 6 6.00m 2.40m 5mm CA/HT/CC

7 7.00m 2.40m 5mm CA/HT/CC

7.0 Party 7.00m 2.40m 3mm PB 8.0 Party 8.00m 2.50m 3mm PB

Seablade 19 6.52m 2.25m 5mm CC

Seablade 22 6.70m 2.43m 5mm CC

Seablade 24 8.29m 2.65m 5mm CC

Orca 6200 Walkaround 6.20m 2.40m 5mm CA

PINNACLE

Pinnacle 720 7.22m 2.50m 6mm HT Pinnacle 830 8.30m 2.50m 6mm HT Pinnacle 930 9.30m 2.80m 8mm HT

MARCO

400 Tiller 4.00m 1.90m 4mm TS/CO 420 Tiller 4.20m 1.90m 4mm TS/CC/RU 440 Angler/Thresher 4.40m 2.10m 4mm CC/CA/RU/TS/CO 480 Angler/Thresher 4.90m 2.10m 4mm CC/CA/RU/TS/CO 520 Angler/Thresher 5.20m 2.10m 4mm CC/CA/RU/TS/CO

550 Striker 5.20m 2.25m 5mm CC/CA/RU

600 Striker/Souwester 6.00m 2.20m 5mm CC/CA/HT 625 Striker/Souwester 6.25m 2.33m 5mm CC/CA/HT 650 Souwester 6.50m 2.49m 6mm CC/HT/WA 700 Souwester 7.40m 2.49m 6mm CC/HT/WA 725 Souwester 7.80m 2.49m 6mm CC/HT/WA 750 Souwester 8.20m 2.65m 6mm CC/HT/WA

800 Souwester 8.80m 2.70m 6mm HT 880 Souwester 9.30m 2.90m 8mm HT 950 Souwester 10.0m 3.0m 8mm HT

PUREKRAFT

480 Centre Console 4.95m 1.97m 5mm CC

560 Centre Console 5.80m 2.16m 5mm CC

600 Centre Console 6.15m 2.33m 5mm CC 650 Cross Cab 6.67m 2.40m 6mm XCAB/CC/HT

700 Hardtop 7.20m 2.50m 6mm HT

750 Centre Console 7.70m 2.60m 6mm CC/Xcab/HT 850 Cross Cab 8.70m 2.75m 6mm XCAB/HT/CC

QUINTREX

Quintrex 350 Explorer 3.58m 1.45m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 350 Dart 3.64m 1.49m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 370 Explorer 3.75m 1.50m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 370 3.76m 1.45m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 370 Dart 3.80m 1.58m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 390 Explorer 3.85m 1.79m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 400 Dart 4.00m 1.69m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 400 Hornet 4.01m 1.73m 2mm TS

Quintrex 400 Trophy 4.01m 1.76m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 400 Trophy 4.05m 1.87m 1.6mm TS

Quintrex 420 Dory 4.27m 1.87m 2mm TS

Quintrex 420 Explorer 4.29m 1.87m 2mm TS

Quintrex 420 Trophy 4.29m 1.87m 2mm TS

Quintrex 430 Top Ender 4.41m 2.00m 2mm TS

Quintrex 420 Angler 4.29m 1.87m 2mm RU

Quintrex 440 Hornet 4.43m 2.02m 3mm TS

Quintrex 440 Trophy 4.43m 2.02m 3mm TS

Quintrex 430 Escape 4.48m 1.90m 2mm RU

Quintrex 450 Fishseeker 4.50m 2.00m 3mm TS

Quintrex 450 Top Ender 4.50m 2.10m 3mm TS

Quintrex 450 Trophy 4.50m 2.05m 3mm CO

Quintrex 440 Angler 4.54m 2.01m 3mm RU

Quintrex 440 Dory 4.54m 2.01m 3mm TS

Quintrex 450 Escape 4.61m 2.10m 3mm RU

Quintrex 450 Top Ender 4.61m 2.10m 3mm SC

Quintrex 460 Dory 4.65m 2.09m 3mm TS

Quintrex 440 Top Ender 4.69m 1.96m 3mm TS

Quintrex 460 Classic 4.72m 2.09m 3mm SC

Quintrex 470 Fishseeker 4.75m 2.05m 3mm TS

Quintrex 480 Trophy 4.84m 2.05m 3mm SC

Quintrex 470 Coastrunner 4.96m 2.10m 3mm RU

Quintrex 500 Trophy 5.00m 2.05m 3mm SC

Quintrex 500 Fishseeker 5.01m 2.25m 3mm TS

Quintrex 470 Freedom Sport 5.05m 2.09m 3mm BR

Quintrex 470 Escape 5.05m 2.09m 3mm RU

Quintrex 470 Top Ender 5.05m 2.09m 3mm TS

Quintrex 490 Escape 5.21m 2.25m 3mm RU

Quintrex 490 Freedom Sport 5.21m 2.25m 3mm BR

Quintrex 490 Coastrunner 5.21m 2.25m 3mm RU

Quintrex 490 Legend 5.21m 2.25m 3mm CC

Quintrex 490 Top Ender 5.21m 2.10m 3mm CO

Quintrex 520 Dory 5.26m 2.09m 3mm TS

Quintrex 520 Classic 5.32m 2.10m 3mm CC

Quintrex 510 Legend 5.41m 2.25m 3mm CC

Quintrex 510 Spirit 5.41m 2.22m 3mm CA

Quintrex 570 Escape 5.41m 2.25m 3mm RU

Quintrex 510 Freedom Sport 5.41m 2.22m 3mm BR

Quintrex 510 Freedom Cruiser 5.41m 2.22m 3mm BR

Quintrex 510 Coastrunner 5.41m 2.25m 3mm RU

Quintrex 510 Top Ender 5.41m 2.38m 4mm CO

Quintrex 530 Escape 5.61m 2.25m 3mm RU

Quintrex 530 Legend 5.61m 2.25m 3mm CC

Quintrex 530 Spirit 5.61m 2.25m 3mm CA

Quintrex 530 Top Ender 5.61m 2.30m 3mm CO

Quintrex 530 Freedom Sport 5.61m 2.25m 3mm BR

Quintrex 530 Freedom Cruiser 5.61m 2.25m 3mm BR

Quintrex

5.05m 2,10m 4mm CA

5.45m 2.10m 4mm CA

5.80m 2.25m 5mm CA

6.02m 2.20m 5mm HT

6.25m 2.33m 5mm HT

7.01m 2.50m 5mm HT

7.45m 2.50m 5mm HT

8.45m 2.50m 5mm HT

8.95m 2.85m 6mm HT

3.05m 1.11m 1.2mm TS

3.55m 1.14m 1.2mm TS

3.48m 1.53m 1.6mm TS

3.81m 1.27m 1.2mm TS

3.85m 1.72m 2mm TS

4.25m 1.95m 3mm TS

4.45m 1.95m 3mm TS

4.60m 1.95m 3mm TS

4.90m 1.95m 3mm SC

Cruiser 4.32m 1.95m 3mm RU

Cruiser 4.62m 1.95m 3mm RU

Cruiser 5.14m 2.05m 3mm RU

Cruiser 5.32m 2.30m 3mm BRRU/CA

Cruiser 5.45m 2.33m 4.mm BR/RUCA

Cruiser 5.95m 2.33m 4mm CA

Rat 3.21m 1.41m 2mm TS

3.60m 1.48m 1.6mm TS

3.80m 1.58m 1.6mm TS

3.90n 1.85m 2mm TS

4.27m 1.96m 3mm TS

4.41m 1.96m 3mm TS

4.55m 2.05m 3mm TS

4.85m 2.05m 3mm TS

5.25m 2.09m 4mm TS

4.40m 1.87m 3mm TS/SC

4.55m 2.05m 3mm TS/SC/CC

5.04m 2.07m 3mm SC/CC

SCORPION

3.60m 1.80m 3mm TS

4.10m 1.90m 3mm TS

Runabout 4.40m 1.90m 3mm RU

4.70m 2.17m 4mm CA/CC

Bowrider 4.80m 2.17m 4mm RU

Cuddy 5.35m 2.20m 5mm CA

6.10m 2.30m 5mm CA/HT

Wheelhouse 6.70m 2.40m 5mm HT

Wheelhouse 7.30m 2.40m 5mm HT 850 Wheelhouse 8.50m 2.45m 6mm HT 890 Wheelhouse 8.89m 2.80m 6mm HT

SCOTT

(Jet Boats)

Puddle Hopper 3.30 m 1.46 m 10mm RU 3.55 Puddle Hopper 3.55 m 1.46 m 10mm RU 3.55 Scud 3.55 m 1.46 m 10mm RU 3.70 Puddle Hopper 3.70 m 1.46 m 10mm RU 3.70 Scud 3.70 m 1.46 m 10mm RU

River Boat 3.90 m 1.53 m 10mm RU

Scud 3.70 m 1.46 m 10mm RU

River Boat 4.30 m 1.64 m 12mm RU

Scud 3.70 m 1.46 m 10mm RU

River Boat 4.45 m 1.64 m 12mm RU

Cross Over 4.45 m 1.64 m 12mm RU

Scud 4.55 m 1.64 m 12mm RU

495 Workmate 4.95m 2.01m 4mm CA/CC

Workmate 5.4m 2.19m 5mm CA/CC/HT 575 Workmate 5.75m 2.19m 5mm CA/CC/HT 610 Workmate 6.10m 2.26m 5mm HT/CC/CA 650 Workmate 6.50m 2340mm 5mm HT/CC/CA 700 Workmate 7.00m 2340mm 6mm HT/CC/CA 610 Gamefisher 6.10m 2.26m 5mm HT 650 Gamefisher 6.50m 2.34m 5mm HT 700 Gamefisher 7.00m 2.34m 5mm HT 750 Gamefisher 7.50m 2.50m 6mm HT

Ultimate 14 4.0m 1.8m 4mm TS/CC Ultimate 16 5.10m 2.05m 6mm SC/CC/CA

Ultimate 18 6.05m 2.30m 5mm CA/CC/SC/HT

Ultimate 21 6.35m 2.45m 6mm HT/CC

Ultimate 21 Elite 6.35m 2.45m 6mm HT/CC

Ultimate 25 Elite 7.25m 2.55m 6mm HT/CC/SC

Ultimate 27 Elite 8.50m 2.80m 6mm HT

WHITE POINTER

6.20 Sports Hard Top 6.20m 2.35m 6mm HT/CA

660 Sports Hard Top 6.60m 2.45m 6mm HT/CA

7m Sports Hard Top 7.20m 2.45m 6mm HT/CA

7m Sports Cruiser 7.20m 2.45m 6mm HT/CA

730 Sports Cruiser 7.40m 2.45m 6mm HT/CA

750 Custom Cruiser 7.60m 2.50m 6mm HT/CA

8m Sports Cruiser 8.20m 2.50m 6mm HT/CA

840 Pro Sportsman 8.40m 2.75m 6mm HT/CA

840 Sports Cruiser 8.40m 2.75m 6mm HT/CA 840 Pro Sportsman 8.40m 2.75m 6mm HT/CA 870 Sport Cruiser 8.70m 2.75m 6mm HT/CA 870 Pro Sportsman 8.70m 2.75m 6mm HT/CA 850 Sports Cruiser 8.80m 2.50m 6mm HT/CA 850 Custom Cruiser 8.80m 2.50m 6mm HT/CA 920 Custom Cruiser 9.20m 2.90m 6mm HT/CA 940 Pro Sportsman 9.40m 2.90m 6mm HT/CA 970 Pro Sportsman 9.70m 2.90m 6mm HT/CA