When I sat down to write this note , we were putting the finishing touches on this issue and simultaneously coming up with story ideas for the six issues we have planned for 2026. It was a reminder of how quickly the year has flown by and how important it is to maintain a positive outlook about what the future holds.
Keeping a realistic eye on the impact current events might have (or already are having) on a business while optimistically moving ahead with plans isn’t easy — especially in the challenging times in which we live. I imagine it is something all of you — chefs, restaurateurs, servers, advertisers and prospective advertisers alike — are going through to some degree.
While there isn’t a simple-to-follow recipe for navigating today’s uncertain foodservice landscape, we hope the content el Restaurante offers in our digital magazine, website, eMex enewsletter and social media pages provides menu ideas, businessbuilding tips, and entertaining stories that will help you navigate some of the challenges you currently face.
In this issue, you’ll find news items about a culinary training program for underserved youth and a campaign that addresses the industry’s labor issues. There’s an interview with a former CHOPPED champion, a how-to on running a family business, plus food and beverage stories about made-from-scratch masa and pulque. And we end with a recipe for pozole sure to enhance your fall and winter menus.
Enjoy the issue. And if you have topics you’d like us to cover next year, or if you’d like to be featured in one of our upcoming issues, drop me a line at kfurore@restmex.com.
PUBLISHER Ed Avis
EDITOR
Kathleen Furore
ART DIRECTOR Ala Ennes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Alfredo Espinola Natalia Otero
MAIN OFFICE phone: 708.267.0023
PRESS RELEASES TO: kfurore@restmex.com
MAILING ADDRESS P.O. Box 13347 Chicago, IL 60613
SHIPPING ADDRESS 1317 W. Belden Ave. Chicago, IL 60614
AD SALES/ENGLISH Ed Avis 708.218.7755 e davis@elrestaurante.com
AD SALES/ESPAÑOL Alfredo Espinola 52-55-4006-9540 alfredo@elrestaurante.com
Published by
Maiden Name Press, LLC Volume 28, Number 5 el Restaurante (formerly el Restaurante Mexicano) (ISSN 1091-5885) is published six times a year by Maiden Name Press, LLC 1317 W. Belden Ave., Chicago, IL 60614
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LA PLAZA DE CULTURA Y ARTES LAUNCHES COCINA CULINARY YOUTH TRAINING PROGRAM
LA PLAZA DE CULTURA Y ARTES is a Los Angeles community hub where people gather to celebrate Latinx culture, including the culinary arts. The centerpiece of the culinary programs is LA Cocina de Gloria Molina, a teaching kitchen and event space that spotlights the history, culture, and influence of Mexican and Mexican American cuisine.
The organization recently launched the Culinary Youth Training Program, a free, bilingual program that provides people ages 16-24 from under-resourced communities with job-ready skills to enter the restaurant and hospitality industry. It offers hands-on cooking classes, introducing students to the basics of kitchen safety and recipe execution. Graduates will leave with a polished résumé, the chance to take the California ServSafe Certification Exam, and opportunities to connect with chefs, restaurateurs, and culinary schools.
The Culinary Youth Training Program is made possible by the SNAP Foundation and the PepsiCo Foundation.
ABOUT GLORIA MOLINA
Gloria Molina was a trailblazer for women in public office and community activism who dedicated her life to serving her community. She was the first woman to become a Los Angeles County Supervisor, the first Latina to serve on both the Los Angeles City Council and the California State Legislature. She also played a key role in launching LA Plaza de Cultura y Artes and was passionate about what she considered the heart of a Mexican home: the kitchen. “Mexican food is one of our greatest cultural contributions to the world,” she once said.
Applicants can choose one cohort, each lasting five weeks with two sessions per week (Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.)
• FALL II 2025 BAKING ONLY COHORT — Sept. 30 – Oct. 29
• WINTER 2025 — Nov. 4 - Dec 10
Applicants must be between the ages of 16 and 24 at the time of application and should not hold a ServSafe Certification or a Food Handler’s Certificate.
For more information and to apply, click here. Questions? Email cocina@lapca.org or call 323-397-8365.
A Sammic immersion blender makes your salsa preparation easier than ever! A powerful motor, easy-to-use controls and ergonomic design mean your staff can create amazing salsas, soups and other blended menu items with ease and speed. You will love the labor savings and your customers will love the results!
JOIN THE MOVEMENT!
SEAT THE TABLE CALLS FOR IMMIGRANT WORK PERMITS TO SECURE AMERICA’S WORKFORCE
Immigrants represent 36% of restaurant owners and over 20% of the sector’s workforce, but outdated policies force many to live and work in the shadows. To tackle what has become a dire situation, the James Beard Foundation has joined forces with the American Business Immigration Coalition and a coalition of America’s top restaurants, hotel groups, vineyards, and farms to launch Seat the Table, a campaign addressing the industry’s labor shortage by prioritizing congressional action to provide work permits for immigrant food workers. That action will help stabilize food service, prices, and availability for all Americans, according to a release from Seat the Table.
The coalition is urging members of the restaurant community to raise their voices in support of the work permits; make your voice hear by adding your name here.
To become a lead signatory and have your organization lead the charge for work permits, share your information here.
NEW COOKBOOK CELEBRATES BORDER CUISINE
A new cookbook from Chef Hank Shaw — who runs the James Beard Award-winning site huntgathercook. com — is a culinary road map through the cuisines of the U.S.–Mexico border region.
Borderlands: Recipes and Stories from the Rio Grande to the Pacific features 125+ recipes and almost 300 photographs that capture the flavors, traditions, and stories of this unique area. Recipes include tried-andtrue standards like Fish Tacos, Chimichangas, and Carne Asada, unusual border specialties like Discada, Mollejas and Empalmes, and vegetarian standouts like Caldo de Queso, Cactus Salad, Nopales Navegantes, Mushroom Tacos.
Find the recipe for Quelites Tacos from the cookbook here. You can order the cookbook on the huntgathercook website or on Amazon.
DEADLINE EXTENDED: ENTER OUR SASSIEST SALSA CONTEST TODAY!
There’s still time to enter your recipe in the el Restaurante Sassiest Salsa Contest sponsored by Sammic. The first place winner will receive a Sammic XM-52 Immersion Blender, and the top three winners will get $750, $500 and $250, respectively. All winning recipes will be featured in our Recipeof -the-Week email program and published in the Nov/Dec edition of el Restaurante . For more information and to enter, click here . Learn more at sammic.us
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CHEF KEVIN TEMPLETON
Hasta Mañana Cantina
EVER SINCE IT OPENED IN SAN DIEGO’S popular Gaslamp Quarter on May 31, 2024, Hasta Mañana Cantina has been a destination for locals and tourists alike who visit for Executive Chef Kevin Templeton’s menu of Baja coastal cuisine. In the vibrant, colorful space just two blocks from Petco Park and the San Diego Convention Center, the former CHOPPED champion works with Chef Andres Lopez creating dishes including Carne Asada; the California Burrito stuffed with carne asada, french fries, pico de gallo, guacamole, mixed cheese, sour cream, rice and beans; Verde Cheese Enchiladas; Mushroom Al Pastor Street Tacos; and the house-favorite Crispy Carnitas Tacos with spicy avocado salsa. el Restaurante reached out to Chef Templeton to discover how he is making his culinary mark in a city filled with myriad Mexican restaurants, many in the neighborhood near this Baja-inspired spot.
1
You’ve been on the team at several restaurants in the Gaslamp Quarter. What made you and your business partners decide to launch a Mexican restaurant when there already are several others in that category nearby? My partners and I were born and raised in San Diego, so Mexican food is in our blood. I have always adored Mexican culture and food. From South America to Central America, Latin cuisine has been at the forefront of my style of cooking. There are plenty of awesome Mexican restaurants downtown. From taco shops to upper scale spots, downtown has it all. We wanted to make a place that is beautiful and welcoming yet affordable. A little bit of everything.
2
How are you differentiating Hasta Mañana from the other places in the area that offer similar menu items? We are differentiating our menu from other places by putting a little twist on classic Mexican dishes. We wanted to make a menu that is familiar to locals and tourists alike. What separates us is that we make all of our sauces/salsas from scratch. From our Diablo sauce for our shrimp tacos to some amazing salsas, everything is made in-house.
“Find the right team that will help you express your ideas. Service is everything and obviously food is a close second. Hospitality is our industry, so we need to hold true to that.” – CHEF KEVIN TEMPLETON
(continues
on page 14)
Hasta Mañana’s Carne Asada dinner
PROUD TO SERVE HISPANIC-OWNED BUSINESSES
At Performance Foodservice, we understand that community and culinary culture go hand in hand. That’s why we partner with suppliers from Mexico, Central, and South America to provide authentic, diverse ingredients for Hispanic and Latin kitchens. Our focus is on serving customers and their communities, no matter the size and scope of their restaurant. Crafting relationships continues to be the Performance main ingredient.
“Beat Bobby Flay and CHOPPED were quite the experience for sure…Competing in those shows gave me a stronger perspective on how we can push ourselves harder…I love to promote from within, so the ability to motivate and help my team grow in their career has been a highlight for me.” – CHEF KEVIN TEMPLETON
My personal favorite is a salsa cruda that my chef created — so spicy and tasty. Another unique fact is that we use only highquality skirt steak for our carne asada. It really makes the difference in the taste and texture of our tacos and burritos.
3
The restaurant business always presents challenges — but the industry is really struggling in the current economic climate with all of the uncertainty with immigration issues, tariffs, and the like. How is Hasta Mañana juggling everything to remain consistent and successful in spite of the challenges?
Our industry has really taken several hits over the years. It’s been tough for us all. As a group, we just have to adapt to every change that gets thrown at us. It can be very difficult to navigate at times, but we make the appropriate changes when needed. With prices going up on almost everything, we try our best not to put it on our guests. In doing that, we search for the best product at the best price and train our staff to be consistent. Staying positive and knowing that we will make it through all of these struggles is the best way to deal with everything.
4
You were a CHOPPED winner in 2019 and were featured on Beat Bobby Flay in 2016. How did you end up on those shows? And did those experiences impact how you develop menus, set up your kitchen, etc?
Beat Bobby Flay and CHOPPED were quite the experience for sure. We have an awesome PR company that helped me apply for multiple shows. The application process is tedious and very time-consuming, but we were persistent. After several submissions, we got lucky. Both of those shows were an absolute experience that I will cherish for the rest of my life. They took some years off of my life with the amount of stress, but I wouldn’t
change it for the world — haha. [Being on those shows] didn’t really help in developing menus or setting up kitchens. If anything, they made me a lot faster when cooking. That being said, I took away a better outlook on how to motivate my team. Competing in those shows gave me a stronger perspective on how we can push ourselves harder. Competing motivated all of my crew to work harder and grow. I love to promote from within, so the ability to motivate and help my team grow in their career has been a highlight for me. For example, I have several of my teammates that started as dishwashers and now they are line cooks and lead line cooks.
5
What advice would you offer a chef/restaurateur who is considering opening a Mexican restaurant today considering there seems to be an abundance of places that serve that cuisine — quick-serve, taco-focused, family dining, fine dining, and everything in between? I have three pieces of advice that I would offer to anyone wanting to open a Mexican restaurant right now:
• Find the right team that will help you express your ideas. Service is everything and obviously food is a close second. Hospitality is our industry, so we need to hold true to that.
• Use the best product. Don’t settle for the cheaper option. You can be smart in what you buy but don’t cut corners.
• Depending on your [customers’] demographic, don’t go too authentic. San Diego is a wonderful tourist and convention destination. If you go too authentic on your menu, it might confuse or intimidate some guests. Find a happy medium and throw some familiar dishes on and have some dishes that represent you and your style as well.
The California Burrito
The interior of Hasta Mañana
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| From its humble beginnings as a simple food for miners in 18th century Mexico, the taco has blossomed into a culinary phenomenon, a must-menu item at QSR, fast casual, family dining and upscale Mexican restaurants alike.
Americans consume over 4.5 billion tacos each year, according to statistics from TacoSpots. And what they’re looking for in the tacos they crave has moved far beyond the ground beef versions most American consumers were served as an introduction to Mexican cuisine.
As the Eatmex report “Cooking in Mexican Food Trends 2025: What’s Cooking in Mexico?” recently touted, “Forget generic tacos. In 2025, regional Mexican cuisines are shining like never before.” While that referred to trends south of the border, it applies to what’s cooking at U.S. restaurants, too.
Take Arturo Jimenez, owner of Tacos Chilango in Phoenix. He had regional cuisine in mind long before reports highlighted the trend when he chose the name for the taqueria he opened in 2020 (in spite of, or maybe because of the pandemic upending the industry five years ago).
“We opened in 2020 because we believe in the old adage, ‘destruction breeds creation.’ We believed that, given the circumstances and state of the industry at the time, the QSR sector, particularly one built for takeout, would be the one that would thrive once the dust settled in that turbulent time,” Jimenez explains.
“The name is very important to us, and to our customer base as well,” he continues when asked if he was hesitant to use the word “tacos” in the restaurant’s name because there are so many taco restaurants — and because Tacos Chilango offers more than just tacos. “Chilango is a powerful cultural term associated with all things Mexico City. And given that we are in an area of the country where northern Mexican cuisine — [food from] Sonora, Chihuahua, etc. — is ubiquitous, we believe that our southern Mexico flavors are a point of difference.”
The restaurant’s Al Pastor Tacos made with pork carved off a made-in-house trompo is one hallmark of Southern Mexican fare.
(continued on page 20)
“Given that our brand is Mexico City through and through, the al pastor trompo is a must. We marinate the slices of pork butt in the traditional recado rojo — a blend of chiles, spices, and achiote — then stack them in a shawarma-like cone, on the vertical broiler. Our customers love the sight and aroma of the slow-roasted meat, topped with the mandatory sliced pineapple.”
– ARTURO JIMENEZ, Tacos Chilango
What are Suadero Tacos?
Mexico News Daily, Mexico’s largest English language news platform, calls suadero “Mexico’s best kept secret.” This is how the publication describes the Mexico City taco:
“When it comes to the mighty suadero taco, underrated is an over statement. Slow cooked in pork fat, the tender texture reminds me of a falling apart brisket. Often overshadowed by more popular options like carnitas, al pastor, or barbacoa, it’s time for suadero to get some shine. A cut from in between the belly and leg of the cow, when slow-cooked or braised, it transforms, like a beefy butterfly, into a melt-in-your-mouth explosion of goodness.
“What makes suadero especially unique is its subtle, complex taste. It’s less robust than barbacoa and not as heavily seasoned as al pastor, allowing the natural richness of the beef to come through. The soft texture contrasts beautifully with a crispy tortilla and a roasted salsa. Suadero’s flavor profile pairs wonderfully with fresh garnishes like cilantro, onions and a squeeze of lime, which bring brightness and balance to the richness of the meat.”
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“Given that our brand is Mexico City through and through, the al pastor trompo is a must. We marinate the slices of pork butt in the traditional recado rojo — a blend of chiles, spices, and achiote — then stack them in a shawarma-like cone, on the vertical broiler,” Jimenez says. “Our customers love the sight and aroma of the slow-roasted meat, topped with the mandatory sliced pineapple.”
Another nod to the south: Chilango Tacos’ Suadero Taco, a Mexico City staple consisting of braised-then-fried brisket. But that doesn’t mean Jimenez ignores the appeal of more Northern-inspired dishes.
“Our most popular offerings are the mesquite-grilled Carne Asada Tacos [Tacos al Carbon], due to the aforementioned Sonoran diaspora in Arizona, and the Quesabirria Taco, our tip of the hat to Jalisco and Tijuana, where this taco originated,” he reports.
Jimenez’s approach is working well: There are now three Tacos Chilango locations, and the restaurant made the Phoenix New Times list of 12 Best Taco Shops in Phoenix in July 2025. Among the reasons the publication’s food team chose the restaurant: “The al pastor tacos are a must order — juicy, a touch spicy and with a hint of sweetness from cubed pineapple.”
FROM QSR STAPLE TO FINE DINING FAVORITE
The evolution of tacos is evident in menus at upscale venues across the country — perhaps nowhere more evident than at Xquita Restaurante y Bar, which opened in Denver’s eclectic, trendy Uptown neighborhood just over one year ago.
It was named Denver’s Best New Restaurant for 2025 by
(continued on page 23)
Tacos
Chilango’s Tacos Al Carbon
About Al Carbon Cooking
Tacos Al Carbon are made with a traditional Mexican cooking method that involves grilling meats over mesquite charcoal. It creates the deep, smoky flavor that characterizes these tacos, which are among the most popular menu offerings at Tacos Chilango in Phoenix.
According to Tacos Chilango, the way the meat is prepared does more than impart the flavor customers love; it delivers the following health benefits, as well:
• Lower in Fat. As the meat cooks over the open flame, the excess fat drips away, leaving behind a leaner and healthier cut.
• Rich in Nutrients. Cooking over high heat helps to seal in the natural juices and nutrients of the meat.
The quick cooking time ensures that the meat retains its nutritional value.
• Free from Harmful Additives. Unlike other cooking methods that may require oils, butter, or frying, Al Carbon grilling is a clean and natural way to cook. Tacos Chilango uses no added fats or artificial additives in their grilling process.
• High in Protein. Tacos Chilango’s Tacos Al Carbon are made with high-quality cuts of meat, which are naturally rich in protein.
• Enhanced Digestibility. Grilling meats makes the food easier to digest. The high heat breaks down the proteins in the meat, making it more tender and easier on the digestive system.
Get out your salsa-making ingredients and create a unique foodservice salsa recipe you think has the consistency and flavor to wow the judges. The grand prize winner will receive a Sammic XM-52 Immersion Blender and $750. Second and third place will receive $500 and $250, respectively. Plus the top three recipes will be featured in the NovDec issue of el Restaurante.
All readers of el Restaurante are welcome to enter the contest. The recipe must be an original recipe of your own creation. There are no restrictions on the ingredients of the recipe. All recipes will be judged on taste, creativity and appropriateness for foodservice applications.
the Mile High City’s alternative weekly Westword for Chef Erasmo Casiano’s creative take on Mexico City fare (which the restaurant describes as “Ancestral Mexican Cuisine”).
Xquita ”has injected both the national and local culinary scenes with a profound passion for Mexíco’s food, culture and unrivaled creativity,” with nixtamalized maíz as “the cornerstone of Xiquita’s masa-based menu, exemplified in dishes such as the braised duck taco served over mole negro…,” the Westword review says. That Taco de Pato is a Tortilla Nixta topped with Carnitas de Pato, Mole Casero (the chef’s mother Lucina’s mole), Sweet Potato Crema and the bold, spicy Yucatecan salsa Xni Pec.
Other Xquita tacos include the Taco de Mercado (Tortilla Nixta, Duck Fat Cured Ribeye, Papa Frita, Cebolla, Cilantro and Salsa Verde) and the Taco de Pescado (Tortilla Nixta, Kanpachi al Pastor, Pina Quemada, Onion and Ash Crema). And it’s not only upscale tacos that rock the menu: Since March, Xquita has been “paying homage to the amazing street foods of CDMX” with a Tuesday through Thursday Happy Hour menu that includes Taco al Pastor, Taco de Carnitas, Taco de Rajas con Crema, Taco de Lengua and Taco Campechano priced at $5 to $6 per taco.
Are you doing something especially creative on your taco menu? Email Editor Kathleen Furore at kfurore@restmex.com with the info and we’ll share it in a future issue.
Taco Tidbits
Here’s a look at some fun facts and interesting stats about the Mexican staple that’s become a customer favorite on Mexican restaurant menus:
• Social conversations about tacos have increased by 8.89% over the past year.
• 15.24% of restaurants (that’s over half a million!) offer tacos on their menus.
• The dominating diet for tacos is vegan.
–Tastewise Tacos Trend Overview
• Americans consume over 4.5 billion tacos each year
• Snack-sized tacos are the fastestgrowing consumer need. Vegan tacos are also becoming popular, reflecting a shift towards plant-based diets.
– Tacospots Taco Business Statistics: Top 2025 Trends
• Regional Authenticity Takes Center Stage. Think birria from Jalisco (which translates into quesabirria tacos)
• The demand for plant-based dishes is booming. Think jackfruit tacos al pastor.
• There’s a Maíz Renaissance. Think heirloom blue corn and red corn nixtamalized, stone-ground, and turned into hand-pressed tortillas for tacos.
— Eatmex: Cooking in Mexican Food Trends 2025: What’s Cooking in Mexico?
Xquita’s Al Pastor Fish on Tortilla Nixta
PHOTO BY @SHAKE_ AND_STEHR
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MAKING MASA
Session Taco Goes All-In on Creating the Mexican Staple
|
BY ED AVIS | Masa is an essential ingredient in countless
Mexican and Latin dishes, so it stands to reason that great masa is a key to great Mexican cuisine. The owners of Session Taco in St. Louis, Missouri recognized that when they opened their restaurant — then called Mission Taco — in 2013.
When co-owner Jason Tilford and his team couldn’t find a local masa supplier, they hit the road to learn the art of making masa from scratch.
“Me and my colleagues traveled all over the country, literally,” he says. “We visited places in LA, San Francisco, Chicago, and down in Texas. We just asked a lot of questions and learned that ultimately as intimidating as it seems, it’s not really that hard. There are just a few components that go into it. As long as you’re hitting those, you should be good.”
Two years after they’d opened their restaurant, they were making their own masa.
Today, Session Taco operates six locations in St. Louis and one in Kansas City, all featuring tortillas made with scratch-made masa.
“The thing we liked about it from the begin-
ning is we could make our tortillas as thick as we wanted, so we didn’t have to use two tortillas for a taco, so we made them a little thicker,” Tilford says. “And we just liked having the flexibility of making our own, having the freshness of the corn with no preservatives and all that stuff.”
(continued on page 28)
Sessions Taco uses scratch-made masa for tortillas and chips.
The Masa-Making Process
Making masa from scratch starts with corn. Session Taco buys corn from Rovey Grain, a corn supplier for restaurants and larger operations that make masa. Session Taco uses a combination of white and yellow corn, which comes in 50-lb bags. They make one batch of masa, which takes 800 to 900 pounds of corn, each day of the week except Sunday.
Nixtamalizing the corn —a process that softens the hard outer hull of the corn kernels, allowing them to be ground — is the first step. The raw corn is poured into a cauldron with water and slaked lime (calcium hydroxide, the alkali agent that softens the hull). The cauldron is heated from below with a gas fire and the mixture is boiled for less than an hour, then allowed to steep overnight.
The amount of heat applied, the quantity of lime added, and even the exterior temperature and humidity all play a role in how the nixtamalization plays out, Tilford explains.
“It was a lot of trial and error,” he says of the early days. “But at the end of the day you realize it’s not really that hard. It’s a little technical, but once you know what temperature you’ve got to get it to and how long it can rest after that, it’s pretty much same thing in and out every day.”
Next the nixtamalized corn is rinsed to purify it for grinding.
“You’re rinsing off that outer thing on the kernel and it turns bright yellow,” Tilford explains. “The less you rinse it, the more yellow and limey tasting your tortilla’s going to be, so the more you rinse it, the less yellow the tortilla’s going to be. You keep spraying it with water and draining it as much as you want; that’s how you control the color of the tortilla and the flavor.”
The rinsed corn is then fed into an augur that carries it to the top of the grinding machine. More water can be added at that point if needed. The grinder then converts the corn kernels into masa.
“The thing we liked about it from the beginning is we could make our tortillas as thick as we wanted, so we didn’t have to use two tortillas for a taco, so we made them a little thicker. And we just liked having the flexibility of making our own, having the freshness of the corn with no preservatives and all that stuff.”
– JASON TILFORD
FROM HAND PRESSES TO AUTOMATED LINE
Masa is the raw material of many Mexican/Latin dishes. Tortillas are the primary product made with masa, but it also is used in tamales, sopes, huaraches and countless other dishes.
Tortillas can be made with masa using rather elementary equipment. In many restaurants, a kitchen worker uses a simple hinged, wooden tortilla press to turn individual balls of masa into discs, then cooks them on a flattop or griddle to make the tortilla. That’s a rather laborious process but works well if the quantity of tortillas needed is not too great.
When Tilford and his colleagues began making tortillas, they used a hand-crank tortilla machine, which is somewhat more efficient than the hinged wooden press, but still pretty elementary.
“But it became cumbersome and took up a lot of space,” he explains.
The solution: They bought a used, basic, industrial-size tortilla-making line and housed it in a nearby commissary where they nixtamalized corn and made fresh tortillas. That proved a big time- and labor-saving step since the business had grown
The tortilla line at Session Taco’s location in Kirkwood, Missouri
culinary trends
and they were supplying multiple locations.
The new equipment worked well, but Tilford knew a more sophisticated tortilla line would work even better.
In 2020, when the company opened a new location in a former brew pub in Kirkwood, Missouri, the brewing equipment was replaced with a state-of-the-art automated tortilla line from equipment supplier Casa Herrera.
“The one we had before was real basic, made in Mexico, and it didn’t have any computers, any timing or anything like that. You turned it on, and it went,” Tilford recalls. “This one now has settings and adjustments. You enter the codes and all that stuff, and it automatically sets it to where you want it.”
It is the same line that four employees use today to make tortillas (up to 9,000 to 10,000 per hour!) for the Kirkwood restaurant and the five other Session Tacos in and around St. Louis. (The tortillas went to the Kansas City location, too, until Tilford started sourcing from Yoli Tortilla, a high-quality Kansas City tortilleria.)
Another advantage is that the new equipment can create
very thin tortillas, which allows Session Taco to make their own tortilla chips — something each location has offered since 2020.
Today the tortilla line is not just a part of the business, it’s also an attraction. The space where the brewing equipment was previously located had large windows into the dining room, so Casa Herrera created a U-turn cooling ramp, which they had never done before, so guests can see the tortilla-making in action.
RETURN TO ROOTS
Tilford says the company is soon opening a new modern Mexican restaurant called La Pez in Kansas City, Missouri. That restaurant will feature more entrees and fewer tacos, so the need for tortillas may be less. But they will still need masa for other dishes.
“There’s a chance that we get a small grinder and do it in-house again,” he says. “We’re not focused on that yet, but probably come to the new year, we’ll sit back and assess whether we should do it in that location or not. There’s plenty of space. The kitchen is big and we know we have the knowhow now.”
GATEWAY TO THE U.S. LATINO FOODSERVICE & GROCERY MARKETPLACE!
LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER
LONG BEACH, CA USA
All in the Family: 6 Keys to Success for a Family-Run Mexican Restaurant
| BY NATALIA OTERO |
Families are the foundation of society: Knowledge is passed down through generations from one family member to another; they provide fundamental support, especially when you are far from your country of birth; and it is no secret that a united family is a symbol of power and resilience.
Countless Mexican and Latin restaurants in the United States are family businesses, and their success shows the strength of the family entrepreneurship model. Inherited recipes, consistency, and the feeling of being “at home” make these businesses thrive in a highly competitive field.
Below are six keys to success in a family-run restaurant, gleaned from interviews over the past year with owners of a variety of Mexican and Latin restaurants.
1Clear division of roles and responsibilities
In a well-run family business, each participating member contributes something unique. That’s why it’s important for everyone to take charge of their area of expertise.
For example, it’s common in family-run restaurants for members of the older generation — grandparents, parents, aunts or uncles — to be the guardians of culinary secrets. Being outside their country of origin, they are most likely to maintain direct contact with their roots, their homeland, and authentic flavors.
George Torres, current owner of El Nopal, a historic restaurant founded in Pueblo, Colorado 70 years ago, says, “If I hadn’t followed the recipes my grandmother started, we wouldn’t be here after all these years.”
Similarly, Aldo Coconi, one of the family owners of Giliberto’s Mexican Taco Shop, which has 16 locations across the upper Midwest, says, “Everything we offer in the restaurant is my mother’s recipe. She taught us that the most important thing is to cook with heart and taste.”
Members of the next generation — the nephews, cousins, grandchildren, and siblings, most of whom were born and raised in the United States — often have a more modern vision of the market. They con-
tribute to the image and brand design, manage social media, and bring a new, larger audience to the business.
This was the case with La Patrona, a food truck in Washington, D.C. Thanks to the drive and perseverance of Jennifer Ramos, one of the owners, on social media, the business gained momentum and went viral, attracting customers and foodies from all over the community.
In nearly every family there is someone who is good with numbers. They are the organized, punctual ones in charge of managing the business, keeping an eye on finances and payroll, and knowing exactly what to invest in and when. Finally, many family restaurants count on someone with excellent people skills to take charge of managing the team.
Sometimes the family divides the work by location rather than skill. For example, the 16 locations of Giliberto’s Mexican Taco Shop are each run by extended family members, including cousins, nieces and nephews, and in-laws. The three siblings
“As soon as we open a new location, we train the new team. We send those who already know the ropes, along with the recipe book, and make sure they know how to do everything with the ingredients, methods, etc.”– ALDO COCONI, Giliberto’s Mexican Taco Shop
The Giliberto’s team: Rogelio Coconi (bottom); Elvira Alvarez, Aldo Coconi, Luis Coconi (middle row); Rigoberto Martinez, Alexis Flores (back)
who own the chain — Aldo, Gabino and Maria Coconi — oversee the total operation, but they rely on local family to manage dayto-day operations at their respective locations.
However the work is divided, the key is that the family members know their individual roles and generally stay out of the way of others. Sometimes joint decisions need to be made, but successful family businesses thrive when each family member can shine individually.
2Free time and space outside of work
One of the biggest risks in a family business is that the boundaries between personal and professional life disappear. The dinner table becomes just another place to talk shop. While it can be hard to switch off work mode, successful family business owners understand that it is vital to separate family and partner time from work time.
Why? For one, if work-related problems seep into home life, relationships can suffer. It’s one thing for a husband-wife team to disagree about human resource issues at the restaurant, and
“Don’t obsess over work. That was a mistake I made in the beginning. Love your partner and understand that you are a team that needs each other!” – CHRISTIAN MARTINEZ, Taco Libre
another to continue that argument at home. Every family member should feel confident that they are a family member first, employee second.
Also, everyone benefits from taking time off, even if it’s just evening hours, so leave work at work. Resting and having time away from the business will help you return to work with greater clarity and strength.
Christian and Aaleiyah Martinez, founders of the Taco Libre food truck in Old Koloa Town, Hawaii, admit that in the beginning they made the mistake of living only for the business.
They learned that enjoying time away from work strengthens relationships and allows them to return to the business with renewed energy.
“Don’t obsess over work,” recommends Christian Martínez. “That was a mistake I made in the beginning. Love your partner and understand that you are a team that needs each other!”
3Trust and communication
Trust is the glue that holds any family restaurant together. But it’s not enough to just “get along”: Success requires organized communication, regular meetings, and clarity in every decision.
Successful family business owners are honest with each other. They also have consistent communication. This helps ensure that all members of the business are aware of what’s going on in the business.
At Ocean Paradise in Fairfax, Virginia, six partners — three Guatemalan sisters and their husbands — run a sophisticated fresh seafood restaurant. Their secret has been to trust each member’s specialty and maintain constant communication to ensure quality and service.
“To have a partnership of six, communication is very important, as are management teams that allow all areas to communicate with each other,” says Milvia Salguero, one of the sisters.
Of course, communication does not prevent all conflicts, but it does provide the certainty that when conflicts arise, there is path to resolving them. Family business owners who trust each other and communicate well are more likely to be able to work through problems than families without those traits.
4Written protocols and recipes
Businesses that last tend to have standardized process manuals and recipes. This ensures that if the business grows, the flavor and quality remain intact.
“As soon as we open a new location, we train the new team,” explains Aldo Coconi from Giliberto’s Mexican Taco Shop. “We
Christian and Aaleiyah
Martinez, Taco Libre
send those who already know the ropes, along with the recipe book, and make sure they know how to do everything with the ingredients, methods, etc.”
Documented procedures are essential to a restaurant like Giliberto’s, with 16 locations, but even sole-location restaurants benefit from them. As family members and other employees come and go, having the success formula in writing helps ensure continuity.
5Mutual support in difficult times
A restaurant requires long hours and sacrifices. At times like these, family support is the best way to keep family members from giving up.
Karina García, co-owner of Cocina Consuelo in New York City, launched her business by selling tacos from home during the pandemic. That effort eventually led to a successful restaurant. She has always counted on the support of her husband and business partner, Eduardo “Lalo” Rodríguez. She says the secret to their success is that when one of them falls, the other picks them up.
Another example: Maria Henriquez, 44, and Ashley Henriquez, 21, the mother-daughter team that operates La Salvi, a Salvadoran restaurant in New York.
“There have been difficult moments when we wanted to stop. It’s just the two of us, and sometimes it’s hard. Of course, we have misunderstandings sometimes, but at the end of the day, she’s my mother, and we always try to come to an agreement,” Ashley says.
6Remember: No matter what happens, you are family
Beyond the tensions or conflicts inherent in any business, the greatest strength of these projects is that they are united by something greater: the family bond.
The Coconi brothers, owners of the Giliberto’s chain, run their 16 locations with uncles, cousins, and nephews working together. Their success is based on perseverance, but also on remembering that, at the end of the day, they are still a family that cooks together.
This means no matter what happens, mothers and daughters will continue to be mothers and daughters, cousins will be cousins, and siblings will be siblings.
Beyond any business or working relationship, there is the family bond that is unbreakable.
“To have a partnership of six, communication is very important, as are management teams that allow all areas to communicate with each other.”– MILVIA SALGUERO, Ocean Paradise
The Ocean Paradise team: (l to r) Mirza Salguero, Luis Gonzalez, Milvia Salguero, Noel Castillo, Marieny Salguero, Hector Chavarria
THE REBIRTH OF PULQUE
| BY ALFREDO ESPINOLA | Pulque has been called by many names: neutle, tlachicotón, cara blanca, babade oso, baba de los dioses.
Each name resonates with the history of a drink that has accompanied Mexico since preHispanic times — one that today seeks to regain the place that beer and other industries took from it in the last century.
Fermented from the honeydew of the maguey plant, pulque typically ranges from 4 percent to 8 percent alcohol, although there are records of alcohol contents as low as 2 percent and as high as 12 percent.
Its production follows a process as ancient as it is simple: the honeydew (the sweet, unfermented sap, also called aguamiel) is collected from the plant and then fermented. The fermentation occurs due to naturally occurring microorganisms, though sometimes alreadyfermented pulque is added to speed up the transformation.
There are two main types of pulque: natural pulque, pure and without additives, and pulque mixed with fruits such as strawberry, guava, or
pineapple (and even unexpected ingredients such as oats or mint). Another variation is distilled pulque, which does not have the preservation concerns of regular pulque.
AN UNEXPECTED RENAISSANCE
In pre-Hispanic times, the maguey was considered sacred, its nectar reserved for kings, priests, nursing women, and the elderly. For centuries, it was the favorite drink of Mexicans until, in the mid-20th century, the beer industry relegated it to oblivion. In the plains of Apan Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, and Puebla, the maguey fields were uprooted to plant barley.
Fifteen years ago, the pulque industry found new life thanks to small and medium-sized producers committed to reviving this drink and taking it beyond Mexico’s borders. Today, the renaissance continues: Mexico is home to 200 of the world’s 215 varieties of agave, and the Altiplano (a semi-arid highland in central and northern Mexico) has the greatest concentration of species. It is estimated that there are up to 80 million hectares of land suitable for growing
“Pasteurized
pulque remains stable for more than 12 months after bottling. This eliminates the barrier of immediate expiration that has traditionally limited it and allows it to be taken anywhere in the world without losing its sensory profile.”
– HUMBERTO NÚÑEZ SALAS, Penca Larga
“Pulque has the magic of reminding us that Mexican culture goes beyond what we already know internationally as tequila or mezcal…There is still a prejudice against pulque, this idea that it is heavy or rough. The opportunity lies in educating diners: explaining its process, offering it in careful pairings, accompanying it with dishes that make it shine.”
– CHEF/OWNER ANA MARTORELL, OXA Cocina Única, Mexico City
maguey pulquero in the center of the country alone. Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, and the State of Mexico lead the way in production, although consumption is no longer limited to the highlands; it has reached Chihuahua, Sonora, Sinaloa, Baja California, and even beyond the border, driven by collectives that appeal to a young audience with fresh and experimental offerings.
For example, Desarrollos del Altiplano, an association of pulque makers in Zacatlán de las Manzanas, Puebla, brings together 300 producers capable of generating 300,000 liters per year, of which 40 percent crosses into the United States, where members of the Mexican community are eager to rediscover the flavors of their homeland.
“The United States is the market of nostalgia, where there are 20 million Mexicans,” explains Humberto Ordoñez, president of Tecnología e Innovación en Pulque Industrial, one of Desarrollos del Altiplano’s member firms.
Brands such as Total Maguey, with gourmet and flavored versions, and Penca Larga, a bottled pulque distributor, are other brands that have expanded beyond Mexico with a presence at trade shows in the United States, Germany, France, Canada, and Japan.
FROM ANCESTRAL TRADITIONS TO INTERNATIONAL MENUS
Until a few years ago, turning pulque into a drink worthy of haute cuisine seemed a distant dream. Now, thanks to modern processes and an innovative vision, this ancient ferment is making its way onto restaurant tables in Mexico and around the world.
“Applying a controlled pasteurization process that eliminates undesirable microorganisms without losing the characteristic flavor of pulque” is the key, explains Humberto Núñez Salas, director and partner of Penca Larga. The result is a hygienic, traceable product with guaranteed stability that makes it attractive to chefs seeking safety and consistency. The great challenge has always been its fleeting freshness. Here, innovation makes the difference.
“Pasteurized pulque remains stable for more than 12 months after bottling. This eliminates the barrier of immediate expiration that has traditionally limited it and allows it to be taken anywhere in the world without losing its sensory profile,” says Salas.
This bridge between tradition and innovation opens the door to previously unthinkable pairings. In Mexican cuisine, pulque finds natural allies in moles, barbacoa, carnitas, and tamales. Its milky and fermented character elegantly balances intense and spicy flavors. But the surprise comes when it crosses over into international cuisine.
“We’ve tried it with mature European cheeses, charcoal-grilled meats, spicy Asian food, and creamy desserts,” Salas says. “The most successful result has been its integration with cheese boards and spicy Indian and Thai dishes, where it adds freshness and smoothness.”
Ana Martorell, chef and owner of OXA Cocina Única in Mexico City, is one chef who believes the future for pulque is bright and responds without hesitation when asked about putting pulque on the menu.
“Although we don’t have it at OXA at the moment, we always seek to tell stories through what we serve, and pulque is just that: Mexico’s liquid history. Including it is not only a distinctive feature, but also a way of honoring our roots. Imagine pairing a chile en nogada with a good pine nut pulque; we would be connecting the past and the present in the same bite and sip,” Martorell says.
Chef Ana Martorell, OXA Cocina Única
“Pulque has the magic of reminding us that Mexican culture goes beyond what we already know internationally as tequila or mezcal. It would reinforce our identity because it would take us back to the peasant tables, to the flavors that have accompanied our people for centuries,” Martorell adds. “The big challenge is cultural. There is still a prejudice against pulque, this idea that it is heavy or rough. The opportunity lies in educating diners: explaining its process, offering it in careful pairings, accompanying it with dishes that make it shine. If we manage to present it with the same elegance with which we serve wine, pulque will establish itself at the table of any kitchen.”
A ROLE IN COCKTAIL CULTURE
In mixology, pulque’s potential is also vast: Natural pasteurized pulque works as a versatile base for cocktails, while fruit-cured pulque adds texture and an innovative profile to signature cocktails. The real challenge, however, is not in the taste, but in the perception.
“The biggest obstacle has been the idea that pulque is unstable or limited to rural contexts. Now it’s time to educate consumers and restaurateurs,” Salas says.
The strategy, he says, is clear: Present pulque as a natural pairing in haute cuisine, not as an exotic rarity. By integrating it into signature cocktails or as a seal of Mexican authenticity on menus, pulque can occupy a place similar to sake in Japan or wine in France.
The path to positioning it on the global stage will require alliances with chefs, sommeliers, mixologists, and gourmet distributors, as well as institutional support to place it at international fairs, festivals, and on menus. Because, beyond technological innovation, the challenge is cultural: to transform pulque from a rural symbol into a banner of contemporary Mexican identity.
Great tortillas start wi�...
These
companies will be exhibiting at the ANTOJO
INDUSTRY
TRADE EXPO, October 13-15, Long Beach Convention Center, Long Beach, California:
SuCabrito. This 100% family-owned Caprine processing plant, the largest in Mexico, processes over 450,000 cabritos (baby goats) and adult goats per year. Products include frozen goat, plus signature frozen stews for foodservice and retail including Cabrito En Salsa. Represented in the US by its subsidiary company SuCabrito USA servicing mainly Texas, with distributors all across the US. sucabritousa.com
Otter All-in-one Restaurant Tech Ecosystem. This userfriendly operating system lets you manage online ordering channels, menu offerings, data analytics, and other operations through a single platform. You can keep existing partners while accessing Otter’s suite of tools like AI marketing, online ordering, and kiosks. The platform consolidates orders, menus, and data across locations and integrates with food delivery apps for seamless management. Real-time reporting, offline mode, and 24/7 support make it a top choice for restaurants looking to enhance efficiency, customer experience, and guest loyalty.
tryotter.com
Reserva De La Torre Tequila. Crafted in Jalisco for generations, this tequila is made with blue agave, carefully selected by experienced jimadores. The process involves slow-roasting piñas, crushing them with a tahona stone wheel, and fermenting with wild yeast. Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo tequilas are available. delatorretequila.com
Romero Cookies. These authentic Mexican cookies come in three varieties: nut-free Stellas (light, crunchy, and sugared by hand with freshly ground cinnamon and sugar); Lunas (traditional powder sugar-coated Mexican wedding cookies with toasted pecans); and Valentinas (heart-shaped shortbread cookies with bits of pecans, flakes of cinnamon, and a dusting of sugar — also known as polvorones). romerocookies.com
Coriat Cooking Equipment. This family-owned Mexican company’s portfolio of commercial cooking equipment includes electric griddles and grills, ranges, broilers, hot plates and more. coriate.com.mx; coriat.us
Universal Food Trailer. Whether you’re getting your business off the ground or taking it to the next level, Universal Food Trailer has a model that will be built with your specific needs in mind. All trailers include a mini split A/C unit and heater; 3 compartment sink and hand washing station; vent hood with extractor fan; clean water tank; waste water tank; prep table; LED lights; water pump; water heater; propane/gas lines; electrical connections; electric circuit box; generator cage; cage for propane tank; service window shelf. Available in 12-ft., 16-ft., 20-ft., and 22-ft. sizes; can be delivered nationwide. universalfoodtrailer.com
JOHN MAYES, Chief Operations Officer & Pastor
El Toro
Navigating the aftermath of your parents’ divorce is never an easy task. Yet it was that experience that planted a seed that has blossomed into a successful career for John Mayes, the chief operations officer and pastor at El Toro Mexican Restaurant in Baytown, Texas.
“It is during those times where I found I loved to cook,” Mayes recalls. “Watching magic happen in the kitchen was so much fun, and an education in itself. You use what you have, what you can afford, and your education as to what worked before.”
When his parents remarried — his mom to “a Cajun cooking man” and his dad to “a Spanish cooking woman” — he was introduced to two dishes that became his favorite recipes: Spanish Chicken and Dumplings, and Pozole.
“I always preferred the pozole because it brought everyone together. You could ladle it up thick or juicy, depending on your style,” Mayes explains, noting how important chopped onion, jalapeños, cilantro, shredded cabbage, a slice of lime and corn tortilla chips are to the final dish. “Pozole always seemed family to me. Tight budget — no problem. Pork, hominy, and dried chiles and you have yourself a dish.”
Pozole has become a favorite at El Toro, too.
“The Pozole Rojo has been big hit at all times of the year. Customers comment that it tastes like their grandmother’s recipe,” Mayes reports. “I prefer the red [version] with pork but a nice vibrant green pozole with chicken in also a fan favorite.”
The secret to Mayes’ recipe?
“Great ingredients…you can’t start with a Volkswagon in the back and pull out a BMW in the front,” he says. His list includes freshly dried chiles, name brand pork butt and hominy, and just the right amount of chiles. “A little too much of one or the other could throw off the whole base,” Mayes cautions.
“For me it is about the right ratio of broth to pork and hominy. You leave space on top for your cilantro, jalapeño, onion, radish, squirt of lime and freshly grated cabbage. There is something about gathering around the table as family and everyone sharing stories or jokes as they prepare their personal pozole,” he says. "So always remember, have fun and bring individuals together. Accomplish this and you will have a masterpiece.”
El Toro’s Pozole Rojo
Makes 32 20-ounce servings
3 oz. chile guajillo
5½ oz. chile ancho
2 oz. chile de arbol
8 qts. water
2 T. + 2 t. lard cube deodorized
2 c. white onion
2 T. jalapeño pepper (fresh)
2 T. + 2 t. garlic, peeled
½ package (4-lb.) pork butt, boneless
⅓ c. spice cumin, ground
2½ gal. water
2 T. black pepper, ground
2 T. + 2 t. spice oregano, ground
2 ea. spice bay leaves
1½ c. chicken base
2 #10 cans white hominy
Chopped onion, jalapeños, cilantro, shredded cabbage, slice of lime, tortilla chips, for garnish.
Devein and remove the seeds from the guajillo, ancho and arbol chiles. Add the chiles to the 8 quarts of water and boil for one minute; remove from
the flame and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
Blend and strain well. Discard the pulp leftover on the strainer (you should have about 20 cups of adobo); set aside.
Clean the pork butt and cut into 1-lb. strips; season with ⅓ cup of cumin and set aside. In a 15-gallon pot, add the lard and heat over a medium flame; sauté the onions and jalapeños, then add garlic.
Sear the meat in batches; once all the meat is seared, return the pork to the pot, add the 2.5 gal. water and adobo, plus the black pepper, oregano, bay leaves and chicken base, and simmer for 3 hours.
Remove the meat, shred it, and return to the pot. Add the hominy and boil for 30 minutes more. Serve, or place in appropriate containers, label, and refrigerate for future service.
