Bags

CONTEN TS

01. 2.55

Chanel

Givenchy

Bagonghi

Roberta di Camerino 05.

Fendi 06.

Baguette

Bamboo

Gucci 07. Bao Bao

Issey Miyake 08. Birkin

Hermès

Chanel

Bottega Veneta

Gucci 06 BAMBOO

The Gucci Bamboo bag, a timeless icon, embodies the spirit of Italian craftsmanship and enduring style.

Born from necessity during post-war Italy’s leather shortage, its innovative use of bamboo for the handle and closure transformed a practical solution into a defining aesthetic. This ingenuity, combined with the enduring appeal of the GG fabric, has solidified the Bamboo bag’s place in fashion history.

The story of the Bamboo bag begins in 1947, when Gucci, facing a leather shortage, ingeniously turned to readily available bamboo – imported from Japan – for the bag’s handle and turn-lock closure. This resourceful solution, born from necessity, became a defining characteristic. The original Bamboo bag, known by its product number 0633, boasts a saddle-like shape, a nod to Gucci’s equestrian roots, and the instantly recognisable bamboo handle and closure. These elements are meticulously handcrafted, lacquered, and toasted to a glossy finish

– a patented process still employed by Gucci’s skilled artisans today.

The Bamboo bag quickly became a sensation, gracing the arms of Hollywood royalty. Ingrid Bergman famously carried it in the 1954 film Journey to Italy, and it appeared in other notable films of the era. Style icons like Liz Taylor and Grace Kelly were also devoted fans, cementing the Gucci Bamboo bag’s status as a timeless classic.

In February 2022, Alessandro Michele unveiled the new Gucci Bamboo 1947, reimagining the original in his signature vibrant palette. While available in various sizes and with a long strap, the bag continues to evoke the elegance of its predecessors, as exemplified by Gucci poster boy Harry Styles, who often carries his by the top handle, much like Ingrid Bergman.

The Bamboo family has also expanded to include backpacks, bum bags, and mini styles, all distinguished by the iconic bamboo hardware, ensuring this enduring legacy continues to captivate fashion lovers for generations to come.

BAMBOO

BIRKIN Hermès

The Birkin has been heralded as a better investment than gold.

Hermès’ chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas created this now-legendary bag in 1984 for English actor and singer Jane Birkin after they sat together on a flight from Paris to London when she complained of being unable to find a leather carrier with pockets that she liked.

The very first model created for Jane Birkin featured the singer’s initials, and unlike the ones that followed, it was also equipped with a shoulder strap. From the mythical genesis, the Birkin grew in popularity during the ‘It bagʼ era of the late 1990s / early 2000s. It became the ultimate symbol of luxury, status and exclusivity and it is now undeniably the most desirable handbag of all time.

Its allure stems not only from its exquisite craftsmanship—Hermès claims that each bag is entirely handmade by one of the Maison’s artisans—but also from the Birkin’s extreme scarcity.

In fact, there are only a limited number crafted each year. The exact figure is a wellkept secret and as a result boutiques are often only able to order a limited stock of Birkins which they offer to the most faithful clients.

Due to the bag’s great demand, a fertile secondary market has flourished. International auction houses such as Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams source and resell Birkins to the highest bidder and Birkins have proven time and time again to be a safer and more lucrative form of investment than gold.

TECH SPECS

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CHIQUITO Jacquemus

The Jacquemus Le Chiquito bag, a pioneer of the micro handbag trend, debuted in the brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, ushering in a new era of miniature accessories.

This tiny yet impactful design quickly became a cultural phenomenon, redefining traditional bag sizes and capturing the fashion world’s attention.

Crafted from smooth Italian leather, the Chiquito features a distinct boxy, geometric structure. Its design is characterised by oversized, looped top handles that create a playful contrast with its diminutive size. The bag is finished with signature Jacquemus gold hardware, adding a touch of understated luxury.

Founded by Simon Porte Jacquemus in 2009, the brand is known for its playful and often avant-garde aesthetics. While the Le Chiquito made its official debut in the Spring/

Summer 2018 collection, its seeds were sown in the Autumn 2017 ready-to-wear show, where a few models carried unusually small bags. This subtle introduction made a surprisingly large impression, with the mini bags quickly appearing on fashion icons shortly after the Met Gala. By the following season, nearly every model and celebrity in Jacquemus’ Autumn/Winter 2018 show sported a mini bag in a vibrant array of colours.

The trend culminated in February 2019 with the introduction of the Mini Chiquito, an even smaller, postage-stamp-sized version. This incredibly tiny iteration, barely large enough for a few mints, generated significant buzz and playful comparisons to binder clips and Barbie accessories on social media. Jacquemus embraced the humour, acknowledging that this particular version was primarily a runway statement, not intended for commercial sale.

However, its influence was undeniable, inspiring other luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Prada to create their own nanobags, further cementing the Chiquito’s place in fashion history.

TECH SPECS

CHIQUITO

Judith Leiber 14 CUPCAKE BAG

The Judith Leiber Strawberry Cupcake clutch, forever immortalised by its appearance in Sex and the City, has become a symbol of whimsical, high-end fashion, a true Judith Leiber classic.

This Swarovski crystal-covered confection appeared in the 2008 SATC movie, during Carrie’s would-be wedding day at the New York Public Library, when Charlotte’s daughter Lily Goldenblat tucked Carrie’s mobile phone away in the custom-made, cupcake-shaped bag.

This coveted piece, originally retailing for around $4,500, quickly sold out, solidifying its status as a collector’s item. While not the most expensive item in Lily’s enviable wardrobe, the Strawberry Cupcake clutch is instantly recognisable to Sex and the City fans, making it a memorable piece of television fashion history.

Lily’s clutch isn’t the only Judith Leiber bag to make a cameo in the Sex and the City universe. Carrie Bradshaw herself received a Judith Leiber minaudière in the shape of a swan from Mr. Big in season two. However, unlike Lily’s sweet treat, Carrie’s bag became a catalyst for a major argument.

Fast forward 10 years, and Judith Leiber creations continued to be memorable. Zendaya, channelling her inner Cinderella, arrived at the Met Gala in a Tommy Hilfiger gown, complete with ‘glass slippers’, and accessorised with a custom-made Judith Leiber Couture clutch shaped like a pumpkin carriage. The piece, adorned with thousands of crystals and featuring 24K gold plating, perfectly captured the fairytale theme.

From Carrie’s cupcake to Zendaya’s carriage, Judith Leiber’s designs have a unique ability to capture iconic moments in pop culture. The Strawberry Cupcake clutch, with its playful design and prominent role in a pivotal Sex and the City scene, remains a testament to the brand’s enduring appeal and its knack for creating whimsical, unforgettable accessories that transcend mere fashion to become cherished pieces of television history.

KELLY

This handbag was first created in the 1930s by Robert Dumas and initially called ‘Sac à dépêches’. It was renamed ‘Kelly’ in honour of Grace Kelly, the Hollywood star who married Prince Rainier III of Monaco in 1956.

Through its association with the princess, it has become one of the most iconic and popular handbags of all time.

The legend goes that costume designer Edith Head chose Hermès accessories to style Grace Kelly in Hitchcock’s film To Catch a Thief (1955). Kelly not only used the bag on the screen, she was also photographed carrying the bag backstage. She continued sporting the handbag even after she abandoned Hollywood

to become Princess Grace of Monaco. In 1956 she was famously photographed by paparazzi disguising her first pregnancy with her namesake bag.

Kelly is available in Sellier and Retourne styles, determined by the type of stitching. Unlike some other key historical handbags, the classic Kelly’s design has remained largely unchanged. A classic Kelly is considered a sound investment as its value grows with time and it is notoriously difficult to purchase these bags from Hermès unless you’re a loyal customer of the brand.

Launer 30 TRAVIATA

Rarely was Queen Elizabeth II photographed without a handbag on her arm, on a table, or standing on the floor next to her.

Even in her last official picture before her death she was carrying her trusted Launer handbag.

Launer had been the Queen’s preferred handbag maker for decades. Among her collection, the Traviata was the favoured accessory of Her Majesty. It holds a special place in royal history and has become a symbol of understated elegance and enduring style.

With its geometric lines, structured silhouette, top handle and signature silver twisted rope clasp, this timeless design, often seen in classic black or white, complemented the Queen’s sense of style.

More than just a fashion accessory, the Traviata was meticulously designed with functionality in mind. Custom features like longer handles prevented snagging on clothes or obstructing handshakes, reflecting the Queen’s meticulous attention to detail. Each bag, ordered annually by the Queen’s dresser, Angela Kelly, was a testament to British craftsmanship and a reflection of the Queen’s discerning taste.

The Traviata’s association with the Queen elevated it to iconic status, becoming Launer’s best-selling style. For special occasions, the company would create bespoke versions, such as the smaller Lisa design carried by the Queen at the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton in 2011. This appearance generated significant attention, causing the Launer website to crash due to overwhelming demand.

TRAVIATA

LUCIA SAVI

Lucia Savi is Head of Curatorial and Interpretation at the Design Museum, London. She curated the V&A exhibition Bags: Inside Out (2020) and authored its accompanying publication. She has contributed to many fashion and design exhibitions and their catalogues, including Objects of Desire: Surrealism and Design 1924—Today (2022), Shoes: Pleasure and Pain (2015) and The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945—2014 (2014).