PMQ Pizza September 2025

Highly gifted pizzaioli like Juan G. Pérez are stepping into the spotlight as transformative leaders, both in the U.S. and across the globe.

PAGE 18

AVERY WARD’S SECRET WEAPON: A VLOG

When Avery Ward started a video series for his pizza shop, he didn’t know what to expect. Would people watch it? Would it be worth the investment of time and energy? Seventy-plus episodes later, the answer is a resounding yes. His vlog, called Slice of Life, has helped the Groveport, Ohio, community learn more about the town’s third-generation pizza shop, Little Italy Ristorante. By taking viewers behind the scenes, Ward has also forged a deeper bond with his customer base. Episodes range from humorous interactions with the local police lieutenant to detailed breakdowns of the shop’s relationships with local vendors—and why he chose them. Ward says the series now gets between 20,000 and 50,000 views per week. “We really wanted to humanize the brand,” he says. “We wanted to show people the grit of the restaurant industry and that there’s a lot more sweat than they would imagine that goes into their plate.” The content’s authenticity and consistency keep viewers coming back, he notes. “It just feels like a little hobby where we go and have fun, and we showcase who we are and what we do. And people love it.”

ELEVATING THE BUSINESS OF PIZZA

WTWH MEDIA, LLC

CEO Matt Logan mlogan@wtwhmedia.com

CONTENT

EDITOR IN CHIEF Rick Hynum rhynum@wtwhmedia.com

SENIOR EDITOR Charlie Pogacar cpogacar@wtwhmedia.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Tracy Morin tmorin@wtwhmedia.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR/ USPT COORDINATOR Brian Hernandez bhernandez@wtwhmedia.com

VP, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danny Klein dklein@wtwhmedia.com

ART & PRODUCTION

ART DIRECTOR Eric Summers esummers@wtwhmedia.com

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Tory Bartelt tbartelt@wtwhmedia.com

DIGITAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Mariam Sedrakyan msedrakyan@wtwhmedia.com

A Publication of WTWH Media, LLC

Volume 29, Issue 7 | September 2025 888-543-2447 ISSN 1940-2007 | Permit #5040

CONTENT STUDIO

VICE PRESIDENT Peggy Carouthers pcarouthers@wtwhmedia.com

WRITER Drew Filipski dfilipski@wtwhmedia.com

WRITER Ya’el McCloud ymccloud@wtwhmedia.com

WRITER Abby Winterburn awinterburn@wtwhmedia.com

SALES & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, FOOD, RETAIL, HOSPITALITY SALES AND ACCOUNT MANAGEMENT Matt Waddell mwaddell@wtwhmedia.com

NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Tom Boyles tboyles@wtwhmedia.com

VP, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Eugene Drezner edrezner@wtwhmedia.com

CUSTOMER SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE Brandy Pinion bpinion@wtwhmedia.com

CUSTOMER SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE Tracy Doubts tdoubts@wtwhmedia.com

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PMQ PIZZA Issue 7 September 2025 (ISSN 1940-2007, Permit #5040) is published monthly in January, March, April, May, June, August, September, October, November and December by WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Ave #1120, Cleveland, OH 44114-2560.

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POSTMASTER: Send address changes to PMQ PIZZA, 1111 Superior Ave #1120, Cleveland, OH 44114-2560.

Opinions expressed by the editors and contributing writers are strictly their own and not necessarily those of the advertisers. All rights reserved. No portion of PMQ PIZZA may be reproduced in whole or part without written consent.

32 Wisdom of the Pizza Masters

We tapped four veteran pizzeria owners who have seen it all—and grown wise with experience. Now you can sit at their feet and learn from their decades of success.

40 Tried-and-True Dough Hacks

From hydration to fermentation and everything in between, four acclaimed chefs share tips for one of the most important—and delicate—facets of your operation.

46 Minimal Menus

A trimmed-down menu can help position your pizzeria for maximum success and profitability, these operators say, especially as food costs keep going up.

52 Soulmates On a Shoestring

They were young, broke, madly in love and a little impulsive. But this mom and pop couldn’t be stopped—and turned Canepa’s Pizza Shop into a small-town hit.

56 U.S. Pizza Team: United by Cheese

Members of PMQ’s U.S. Pizza Team got a oneday crash course they’ll never forget at the USPT Galbani Summit—a “playground for pizza minds”—in Buffalo.

10 Latino Pizza Chefs To Watch

Creative, driven and charismatic, these men and women stand at the forefront of pizza making innovation—and it’s time they got the recognition they deserve.

BY SOFIA ARANGO

PIZZA PONTE: TRIPLING SALES WITH AI

WHEN SAYED SEYAR NEEDED HELP turning around his struggling pizza shop—Pizza Ponte in Oakland, California—he turned to his brother, Sayed Spehar. The brothers, who immigrated from Afghanistan as teenagers, poured themselves into learning the craft of artisan pizza, watching YouTube videos and Instagram reels and reading any pizza book they could find. But ChatGPT took their pizzeria to the next level, ultimately helping to triple sales. The AI tool became their silent partner in everything from revamping the slice case and choosing

new lighting to diagnosing a water leak. It even helped the brothers renegotiate the shop’s lease—no lawyer necessary. “We just kept asking it for help,” Seyar says. “And it became part of how we operate.” ChatGPT also advised them to hire a PR agency, which sparked buzz and led to major media attention. Now a rising star in the Bay Area pizza scene, Pizza Ponte has national ambitions. “Imagine you’re investing in Tesla in 2010 or Domino’s in 2000,” Spehar tells PMQ. “This is Pizza Ponte.” ChatGPT didn’t write that line—but it just might help make it true.

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STRAIGHT OUTTA KALAMAZOO

Jim Mumford doesn’t own a pizzeria—he doesn’t even work for one. But the home chef/food writer behind Jim Cooks Good Food has invented a variety of pizza that could qualify as a regional style, if pizza pros give it a chance. Mumford, who also co-hosts the Pizza Roundtable podcast, created the Kalamazoo style in his own kitchen. Now he’s just waiting for it to “take hold in the area as a pizza-led representation of the cultural vibe of the region.” As he explains to PMQ, “Take the best of Detroit, the best of both Chicago styles, and mash it all together. It’s kind of like making a ‘best of’ album. I didn’t really expect it to work, honestly, but it’s awesome.” It features dough similar to the tavern style but spiked with a little beer (a tribute to Kalamazoo, Michigan’s many craft breweries). The sauce is pub-style sweet, while the cheese is “akin to” Detroit-style brick cheese, and the finished pie also boasts that Detroit frico edge. “It’s one of the tastiest pies I’ve ever made,” he notes, adding that he has shared the idea with some local chains. The recipe is featured in Mumford’s new book, PizzaPedia: Favorite Recipes From Across America, which offers more than 100 recipes and covers 30-plus styles and variants.

Jim Mumford, a blogger and podcaster, hopes his Kalamazoo-style invention—a mash-up of two Chicago styles and the Detroit style— will gain some traction in his home state of Michigan.

Mumford’s new cookbook shares more than 100 pizza recipes and covers 30-plus regional styles and variants.

THE SEAFOOD KING OF LOUISIANA

Pizzaiolo Karlos Knott, owner of The Cajun Saucer in Arnaudville, Louisiana, has earned regal status in his home state: From now on, call him the Seafood King of Louisiana. And he won the title with, of all things, a Roman-style pizza. Knott, who actually specializes in Neapolitan pizza, won the 18th annual Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off on June 27, thanks to a pie called All Roads Lead to Arnaudville. It featured butterpoached shrimp and a roasted red pepper coulis. The cook-off has been known to catapult winners to national fame and even TV cooking shows. But Knott, a Cajun country native who opened his pizzeria inside Bayou Teche Brewing (which he also owns) in 2018, said, “It still hasn’t sunk in that I was able to win this competition with the amazing chefs” on the roster of finalists. “I found myself looking around to see who won, and suddenly I realized it was me.” The next step: Knott will compete in the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans later this year.

SLICE ON BROADWAY’S PAPARAZZI PIZZA

Picture-perfect and full of flavor.

By Rico Lunardi

Ingredients

• 12 oz. dough

• 3 oz. Galbani Premio Mozzarella, shredded

• 3 oz. Galbani Provolone, shredded

• 2 oz. Roasted red peppers, sliced thin

• 2 oz. Thin-sliced prosciutto, lightly crisped or laid raw before bake

• 2 oz. White pizza sauce

• Handful of fresh spinach or blanched greens

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• Cracked black pepper to finish (optional)

Directions

1. Stretch dough to a 12-inch round.

2. Spread a thin layer of white sauce evenly across the dough, leaving a border for the crust.

3. Top with Mozzarella and Provolone.

4. Evenly distribute roasted red peppers and prosciutto. Add small clusters of spinach or greens across the top.

5. Bake in oven at 550°F until golden brown with slight blistering.

6. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a crack of black pepper.

About the Pizza

Meet the Paparazzi Pizza—a pie so stunning, it steals the spotlight. Crafted during a photo shoot for a pizza that “popped” on camera, this pie takes cues from the Green Monster pizza, a longtime favorite at Slice On Broadway. It features a balance of creamy Galbani Premio Mozzarella and Provolone, along with SOB’s white sauce. The roasted red peppers and salty prosciutto bring the drama, and the fresh greens add the final photogenic flair. While the camera ate first, the real magic happened with that first unforgettable bite. A total scenestealer in one candid creation.

Find

Ispirazione Italiana

What's my Italian Inspiration? It’s passion for the pizza business. I’m hands-on in the kitchen, but I also handle the office work—and I love both roles. I have to balance my drive to create the best pizza with my goal of running successful restaurants. Galbani® helps me do both. When I switched to Galbani cheese, I got the same quality and flavor as the more expensive brand. That’s delicious pizza and smart business. —Rico Lunardi, Owner, Slice on Broadway Learn more at GalbaniPro.com

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• Callerid delivered to POS system

• Auto attendants— ”If you have arrived for curbside pickup press one ”

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“Press one to receive a text message with links to our onlne ordering ”.

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3) Automated campaign to send a few hundred messages per day, with the goal of adding 10+ additional orders per day. Messages can be coupons, but you can also get great traction with messages such as “Happy Monday. Did you know you are allowed to eat pizza on Monday?” followed by your online ordering link.

As the unsung heroes of the pizza community, Latino pizzaioli are changing perceptions and bringing new energy and creativity to the craft.

BY SOFIA ARANGO, Guest editor and founder, Latinos en Pizza

LATINOS ARE THE UNSUNG HEROES OF THE PIZZA COMMUNITY.

According to a 2022 report by the National Restaurant Association, more than 25% of U.S. restaurant and foodservice workers, including 36% of the cooks, are Latino. Most ply their trade quietly behind the scenes, fueling pizzerias’ success with their work ethic and loyalty. But many others have been recognized in recent years as some of the world’s best pizza chefs by organizations like 50 Top Pizza and the Best Pizza Awards. With that in mind, Sofia Arango founded Latinos en Pizza, an international network of Latin American pizza professionals, to honor them and give them a voice in the global pizza conversation. To recognize these pizza pros who are making the world’s greatest food even better, PMQ Pizza naturally turned to Arango as our guest editor for this special report. You can connect with her, learn more and join her fast-growing community at LatinosenPizza.com and follow them on Instagram at @latinosenpizza

Juan G. Pérez Posto, Boston

When Pérez arrived in the U.S., he didn’t speak English, had no connections, and started from the bottom—as a dishwasher. Now he’s one of the most influential figures in the pizza community, ranked among the world’s top 100 pizzaioli by the Best Pizza Awards. And Posto, where he serves as executive chef, has been recognized by 50 Top Pizza in 2024 and 2025 as one of the best pizza destinations in the U.S. Pérez, who has more than 538,000 followers on Instagram alone (@juangpizza), specializes in Neapolitan pizza but refuses to be boxed in. “I believe anything can go on a pizza,” he says. “I’m not here to copy what a thousand other pizzerias are already doing. That will never make you stand out.” Innovation, for him, is the only way forward, and he proves it every week on social media, where he shares ideas, techniques, video clips and bold new recipes with his still-growing audience. Behind that creativity is something deeper: discipline. “That’s my No. 1 value,” Pérez says. “When you have discipline, everything flows better.” He cites

Tony Gemignani and Chris Bianco as major inspirations as well as Posto owner Joe Cassinelli, who has supported him for all these years. But he also finds deep motivation in the many other Latinos who came from nothing and built success with their own hands. “Our Latin

community is fundamental to this industry,” he says. “Maybe we’re not featured on TV or big media like other regions, but in the U.S., we’re the backbone of thousands of pizzerias. That should be valued even more than a fancy name on a list.”

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Francis Murillo Di Mattia Pia’s Not Just Pizza, Miami

“I’d never made pizza before, but the moment I put my hands on the dough…it just felt natural.” That’s how Di Mattia—a Venezuelan architect turned pizzaiola— describes her first encounter with a craft that seemed to have been waiting for her all along. When, like so many others, she was forced to leave her home country, she settled in Miami. There, she decided to start a business rooted in her Italian heritage.

“My mom’s whole side of the family is Italian,” she says. Though she had no formal culinary training, she discovered that some knowledge lives in your bones. “I watched videos, read a lot, practiced…but there was something deeper. The dough understood me. And I understood it.” For opening day at

Pia’s Not Just Pizza, she expected a modest turnout of friends and family. She was overwhelmed when more than 200 people showed up. “I had never made that many pizzas, never managed kitchen timing like that. That day, I realized how much I didn’t know.” But she’s a fast learner. Since then, Pia’s has grown steadily, serving up to 400 guests on busy days without losing its intimate touch.

Di Mattia’s favorite creation is the Pia’s Pizza, a signature pie born from instinct. “It was one of the rare moments I didn’t overthink. I just followed a feeling.” It features prosciutto, fresh arugula, buffalo mozzarella, a balsamic reduction and EVOO. “It’s strange for me to act on impulse. But that pizza…it came together on its own, as if it already knew who I was.”

Today Pia’s is a welcoming space for Miami’s diverse Latino

“I watched videos, read a lot, practiced…but there was something deeper. The dough understood me. And I understood it.”

community—Venezuelans, Cubans, Dominicans—but it has also won the hearts of Americans and Italians alike. “What unites us is our love for pizza,” she says. “And with a smile, we all understand each other, no matter the language or culture.”

Andrés Maldonado Nona Street Pizza, Orlando, FL

“Pizza was my first love in the kitchen,” Maldonado says. “I wanted to understand everything— fermentation, balance, quality ingredients…and that curiosity turned into an obsession.” That obsession became Nona Street Pizza, but, with no investors and a tough economy, getting started wasn’t easy. “We overcame it by going back to basics: quality product, great service and building community around our brand. I built a team that shares the same

fire. We listen to our customers, we stay adaptable, and we never compromise on what makes our pizza special. Everything we do is artisanal—rooted in classic technique but infused with bold Latin flavors that tell a story.”

That philosophy shows up in every slice, especially in Maldonado’s signature Tripleta Pizza. Inspired by Puerto Rico’s tripleta sandwich, it features chimichurri, mozzarella, grilled steak, roasted pork, chicken, mayo-ketchup, and crunchy potato sticks. “It’s a flavor bomb,” he laughs. “It’s not a typical pizza—and that’s the point. I want to surprise people. I want to move them.”

For aspiring pizzaiolos, Andrés has one key piece of advice: Passion isn’t enough. “You need structure, patience and a good team. I wish someone had told me early on that this isn’t just about cooking well—it’s about running a business, leading people and taking care of yourself.” But there’s another factor, too. “My philosophy is simple,” he says: “Make every pizza as if it’s for someone you love.”

Antonio Portillo

Pizza Factory, San Miguel, El Salvador

Portillo, San Miguel’s first true Neapolitan pizzaiolo, didn’t inherit a family pizzeria or train in a Michelin-starred kitchen. But when he tasted traditional Neapolitan pizza for the first time in Naples, he recounts, “I fell in love instantly. The texture, the simplicity, the connection to the hands that made it…I knew that’s what I wanted to do.”

Back home in San Miguel, he noticed, no one was making that kind of pizza. After learning the craft with a backyard oven, he opened Pizza Factory. “At first, people told us our pizzas

were burned,” he says. “It was discouraging. We almost gave up.” Instead, Portillo decided to educate, creating a grassroots learning circle—customers who had discovered Neapolitan pizza began explaining it to others. “We didn’t start a trend. We built a community.”

Facing problems with his

landlord at the original location, Portillo is now opening a new store. Meanwhile, as San Miguel’s only Neapolitan pizzeria operator, he says, “We want our pizzas to be understood, not just eaten. We want people to connect with the flavors, the story and the process.” He admires global icons like Franco Pepe, but his goals are grounded: to grow Pizza Factory across El Salvador and then to bring Salvadorans the best pizza in the world—not as an imported luxury, but as a national source of pride.

Marisol Doyle

Leña Pizza + Bagels, Cleveland, MS

When people think of a Latinoowned pizzeria, they probably don’t picture a small town in the Mississippi Delta. But a Mexican woman there is quietly rewriting the narrative as co-founder of Leña Pizza, which was ranked No. 38 in

the U.S. by 50 Top Pizza this year and No. 77 worldwide by the Best Pizza Awards.

Originally from Sonora, Mexico, Doyle never imagined she’d be stretching dough in Mississippi— let alone gaining international recognition for it. “I grew up making tortillas and molletes with my hands. Now I make pizza dough. Every motion carries a part of that past.” Once a month, Leña’s menu features a Mexican-inspired pizza using the flavors Doyle grew up with.

Starting a business in a place where not many people had ever met a Latina like her wasn’t easy. She had to prove—to others and to herself—that she could do it. On a tight budget, with a building in need of serious repairs, she launched one of the most challenging projects of her life. But she wasn’t alone: “The community embraced me,” she recalls. “They supported us from day one. They gave us room to grow.”

Today, Leña tells the story of a woman who, like many immigrants, lives in that in-between space—ni de aquí, ni de allá—not fully from the U.S., not quite from Mexico anymore. But she’s learned to plant roots wherever life takes her. She grew up watching her family cooking in a small kitchen in Sonora, and now—miles and years later—she’s sharing that legacy with every slice.

Wilhelm Rodriguez

Papa’s Pizza, Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico

When Rodriguez landed his first pizzeria job at 14, he says, “I embraced it, and I never let it go.” He eventually had the chance to purchase the very place that had shaped him. It was a proud moment, but also the beginning of one of the most difficult phases of his life. “I spent months working day and night, all by myself. Slowly, I trained

a team, one person at a time, until I finally built the crew I needed.

“I make pizza the way it was made in old-school New York,” he continues. “That spirit can’t be lost.” Rodriguez is also a standout member of PMQ’s U.S. Pizza Team, with decades of global competition experience and numerous awards under his belt. He has become a mentor and role model for emerging Latino pizzaioli, especially those interested in entering the competitive circuit. For him, the success of one is the success of all.

But if he could go back in time, there’s one thing he wishes he’d learned earlier: how to properly work

“I make pizza the way it was made in oldschool New York. That spirit can’t be lost.”

Wilhelm Rodriguez

with dough hydration. “There are so many details that you only learn through experience. Sometimes I wish I’d had that knowledge from the start.”

Rodriguez emphasizes the critical role of the Latino community in the U.S. pizza business. “These days, in most pizzerias, it’s our Latino brothers and sisters who are doing the work and offering the warm hospitality. We’re essential.”

Jose Rodriguez

Brooklyn Pizza, Short Hills, NJ

“I started from the bottom, learning every step, from mixing dough to firing up the oven,” Rodriguez recalls. “Now, every pizza I make tells a story.” But when he opened his business, he wasn’t sure if anyone would show up. “There were doubts, fear of failure, and a lot of sleepless nights. But I kept believing in my product.” Slowly but surely, the community responded.

Two of his pies embody who Rodriguez is as a pizzaiolo. The first is his sourdough pizza, made with naturally leavened dough and a lengthy fermentation. “It’s not the easiest dough, but it has depth, character and a story. It takes time and patience.” The second is his

trademark thin-crust Skinny Deep Dish Pizza. “It shows my bold side,” he notes.

“We’re not just selling pizza,” Rodriguez adds. “We’re creating moments. I want people to remember how the pizza made them feel, not just how it tasted….I want the name Jose Rodriguez to be known not just for the flavor, but for the effort and history behind

it.” And to aspiring pizzaioli, he advises patience. “At the beginning, you want everything to be perfect right away. But this path takes time, practice and a lot of lessons. Every mistake made me a better pizzaiolo—and a better person.”

Alexandra Castro

By Everything Dough, Stamford, CT

Castro’s story began in 2012, during an internship right after graduating from culinary school. In a small town in Colombia, she encountered sourdough for the first time in both bread and pizza. “At that time, sourdough wasn’t trendy, especially in small-town Colombia,” she recalls. “It was a whole new world for me. The process, the flavor, the aroma… how a few simple ingredients could become something so complex and incredibly delicious. I fell in love.”

The next turning point came when Castro left the pizzeria she owned in Colombia and arrived in the U.S.

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She had no clients, no community. “Permits, taxes, logistics—everything was new. And I was entering a very competitive market, where artisan pizza already had major players.”

She started by teaching small pizza classes at home and catering private events. There were pop-ups at Hudson Table, collaborations with Cocreate and local fairs. She launched kids’ classes, frozen pizzas, e-books and brand collaborations.

As a pizza chef and instructor, Castro doesn’t believe in shortcuts. “I respect the process. I use highquality ingredients. I want every person to feel something real, close and delicious.” She loves playing with local ingredients, fresh vegetables, cheeses and nuts. And she always adds a feminine visual touch to each creation.

Her vision for the future: a creative space of her own, where she can unify all of these experiences and give free rein to her ideas. “It’s not just about growing,” she says. “It’s about doing it with purpose, without losing what moves you.”

Antonino Errante

Antonino’s Pizza Napoletana, Caracas, Venezuela

The son of a Sicilian immigrant and a Venezuelan mother, Errante was born in Caracas but raised on stories from Partanna in southern Italy, where his grandfather and father mastered the crafts of bread, gelato and, of course, pizza. Errante, however, initially took a different path.

At 18, he left for Italy, settling first in Florence and then in Rome, where he studied digital and virtual design at the Istituto Europeo di Design. Then he made a casual visit to Naples, where he was rendered spellbound by Neapolitan pizza. He began learning on his own, watching YouTube videos by Vito Iacopelli,

“Follow the Neapolitans. If you can, go to Naples. Learn from the root.”

Antonino Errante

and trained with other renowned Italian figures. He became a master instructor for the Accademia Pizza DOC, completing over 30 professional courses. Still, for years, pizza remained a side passion while he managed gelaterias and restaurants in Panama.

At his sister’s encouragement, Errante returned to Caracas after a decade away. He found a changed city—more stable, more open to the dollar, more eager to enjoy life again. That’s how Antonino’s Pizza Napoletana was born, in Altamira

Village, with a menu focused on true contemporary Neapolitan pizza, using imported Italian products (except for the fior di latte, which he produces with his own recipe).

Today, he’s one of the leading voices of Neapolitan pizza in Venezuela. In Italy, he was awarded the prestigious Arcimboldo d’Oro, and in 2024 he placed 12th at the Pizza DOC Championship with a flavor-packed pizza featuring yellow datterino tomatoes, stracciatella, Cetara anchovies, wild oregano and semi-dried tomatoes. In 2025, he was also selected among the 100 best pizzaiolos in the world by the Best Pizza Awards.

To succeed in the pizza world, Errante believes in rigorous training, learning from the source and speaking Italian. “Follow the Neapolitans,” he says. “If you can, go to Naples. Learn from the root.”

Juan Cárcamo

Pizzería La Clásica, Santa Tecla, El Salvador

Cárcamo has become one of Latin America’s most respected pizza figures, earning a spot on 50 Top Pizza’s list of the best Latin American pizzerias for the second year in a row—ranked, in fact, at No. 9 and the only Salvadoran pizzeria on the list.

But for years, La Clásica operated during a time when El Salvador was marked by insecurity and unrest. Cárcamo sacrificed more than most, especially time with his family. “I wasn’t there enough,” he admits with sadness. Fortunately, recent improvements in the country have brought new hope. His wife Susan—whom he calls the real engine behind La Clásica—is now deeply involved in the day-to-day

operations, and their children are stepping in, too.

But in a country where fast-food pizza chains shaped the mainstream palate, more traditional pizza wasn’t always well received. Undaunted, he brought in top-quality equipment,

trained his team, imported premium ingredients, and, most importantly, began educating El Salvador’s taste buds.

Notably, Cárcamo’s pizzeria is the only place in Latin America offering all major pizza styles under one roof—Neapolitan, New York, Roman, Detroit and more. Now he wants more Latin pizzaioli to step into the spotlight. “We have to stop being afraid of social media,” he says. “Instagram, Facebook, TikTok—they’re our open windows to the world. If you make the best pizza in Ecuador, say it. Show it. Let people see it. Because if you don’t, no one will know you exist.”

Sofia Arango is the founder of Latinos en Pizza, a network of leaders who are transforming the pizza industry in the U.S. and Latin America.

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Don’t miss the 4th annual Pizza Tomorrow Summit –we are returning to Orlando’s Orange County Convention Center – this year expanded to 3 FULL DAYS!

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Plus over 40 HOURS of free education and the US Pizza Team Competitions! Registration is open now! Sign up today at EARLY BIRD RATES AND SAVE!

THIS YEAR THE SHOW IS EXPANDING TO THREE DAYS!! Co-located with the Florida Restaurant Show –ATTEND TWO SHOWS WITH ONE BADGE!

JOIN THE INDUSTRY IN ORLANDO THIS NOVEMBER!

Explore the latest in pizza innovation, tech, ingredients, and equipment — all coming to Orlando this November at the Pizza Tomorrow Summit!

EXHIBITS: Now featuring twice as many exhibitors as previous years, explore hundreds of vendors showcasing game-changing products, tools, and trends that boost profitability and performance. From ovens to ingredients, delivery tech to dough techniques—it’s all under one roof. Plus, get access to everything at the co-located Florida Restaurant Show!

ORLANDO: Bring your team, bring your family and enjoy all the attractions of Central Florida!

EDUCATION: A seriously robust conference program designed to help you start or scale your business—featuring over 35 hours of education, all included at no additional cost! Learn from top industry leaders who deliver real, actionable takeaways—from managing food costs and affordable tech to the future of AI and effectively leading your team. And did we mention – they are FREE!

COMPETITIONS: Catch the 2025 Galbani Professionale Pizza Cup & Acrobatic trials from the U.S. Pizza Team!

Wisdom of the PIZZA MASTERS

Take notes on this priceless wisdom from pizza restaurant operators who have racked up decades of success in the industry.

BY TRACY MORIN

ANY EXPERIENCED PIZZERIA OWNER CAN LOOK BACK AND SAY, “If only I’d known...” and fill in the blank with endless streams of wisdom gleaned along their journey—often learned the hard way.

Fortunately, with time comes knowledge, and those who have decades of experience in the pizza business have seen it all (well, almost). Here, four of them share their most crucial operations-based success tips with PMQ. Read on and learn from the masters!

Ruth Gresser Chef/founder, Pizzeria Paradiso, Washington, D.C.

1. BE INTENTIONAL. Everything in this industry moves fast, and it’s easy to fall into a reactive rhythm. But success—sustainable, meaningful success—comes from being thoughtful and deliberate. Whether you’re designing a menu, opening a new location or hiring your first employee, every decision should be grounded in your values and your long-term vision. That clarity helps weather the hard days and keeps your business true to itself.

2. CREATE A SUPPORT NETWORK. I once read, “If you’re working in your business, you’re not working on your business.” This quotation had a profound impact on me, as it helped me to understand that business development (in all its many definitions) was unlikely to come while working the pizza oven or doing payroll. If I could change any one thing in my journey in this business, it would be understanding this truth earlier in my career. I would

have taken steps when I established my business to help me maintain this dual focus of working on and in my business simultaneously. I would have started by creating a board of advisors to ensure I would have a network of business support from day one. I would suggest this for anyone thinking of opening a business.

3. KNOW YOUR WORTH. Valuing your own work is not arrogance—it’s leadership. This truth is for everyone, but I see it as especially relevant for women. So many women receive the message that we are worth less, so we undersell ourselves. We shouldn’t charge too much, ask too much or take up too much space. I remember a moment, early in my career, when a customer asked to purchase a bulk order of biscotti. Without thinking it through, I quoted a price that barely covered the cost of ingredients, thus completely devaluing my time and expertise and erasing any profit. I essentially gave my work away for free. Recognizing our strengths and skill, and valuing them appropriately, is the foundation of a leadership of success.

Michael P. LaMarca Owner/CEO, Master Pizza Franchise Group, Mayfield Heights, OH

1. STICK TO YOUR PRINCIPLES. I believe that one of the most important things you can do for your business or organization is to have set principles. These set principles are the building blocks to your culture and ultimately the road map for every decision that is made by you and everyone in your company. Having set principles gives the people in your company an overall direction on how and why certain decisions are made.

2. HAVE A VISION. You, as well as your team, need to know what the short-term and overall long-term goals are for your business. Having a stated vision and/or goals will get everyone looking and rowing in the same direction. It does not matter if your goals are small and immediate or long-term and huge—just make sure everyone knows what their expectations are.

3. PLAN AHEAD. Visions and goals have costs and must be planned out, not just stated to your team. The difference between an idea and a plan is that an idea is in your head

“The difference between an idea and a plan is that an idea is in your head and a plan is on paper. Write out each step and check off your progress. This will make you accountable to your idea and plan.”

Michael LaMarca, Master Pizza

and a plan is on paper. Write out each step and check off your progress. This will make you accountable to your idea and plan. This is one of the best lessons I was ever taught.

4. COMMUNICATION IS VITAL. No matter how good your idea is and no matter how well it is planned out, it will fail if it is not properly communicated. Good communication takes a mammoth amount of time and effort. Never assume that anyone understands what you are trying to do. It is impossible to overcommunicate and super easy to undercommunicate. Technology can aid in communication, but the follow-through is what will take your message from a text or email to a value.

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Lisa Dahl

Chef, owner and CEO, Dahl Restaurant Group, Sedona, AZ

1. ESTABLISH YOUR CUSTOMER SERVICE CREDO. I think establishing the credo for hospitality is the most important step, no matter what business you’re in. Having a list of your top 10 non-negotiables for how you handle customer service issues—protocols from greeting to phone etiquette—is fundamental to longevity. I’m personally present to hire every position, from dishwasher and host to general manager. How that host answers the phone can influence whether that party will actually walk through our doors.

2. CULTIVATE YOUR CULTURE. Second, and equally important, is establishing your culture with both the employees and the guests. People have to know who you are, what you stand for, and what makes you different from the rest. Training is vital, so the specific training style and information that goes into these roles is key. Without the employee’s buy-in to our culture and our credo, there is nothing that would set us apart from everybody else.

3. MIND YOUR MANAGERS. Place your management team (and the hiring of those assets) at the top of the tree in importance. If your business requires multiple managers, it’s important to have diversity so that there are those

“Having

a list of your top 10 nonnegotiables for how you handle customer service issues—protocols from greeting to phone etiquette—is fundamental to longevity.”

Lisa Dahl, Dahl Restaurant Group

incredible front-of-the-house people and back-of-thehouse people. And create a culture that embraces both. In a specialized business, as much as you can, trying to find managers that come from that specific type of business is always a really good approach, because they will bring something to an owner in their knowledge bank that might really help in the startup phases.

4. CHERRY-PICK QUALITY VENDORS. Sourcing establishes who you are in the marketplace. If you partner with chosen vendors, they can also help to cut out a lot of the middle-of-the-road items that dilute your individual style or concept. Purveyors I have known, worked closely with for decades, and maintained a rapport with at the highest level have greatly helped to safeguard our reputation of being best-of-breed for our brand.

Joe Farruggio

Owner and founder, Il Canale, 90 Second Pizza and A Modo Mio, Washington, D.C.

1. PAY ATTENTION TO THE PAYROLL. Train people and set up systems so that everything gets done with the least amount of people—without making the customer suffer. I spent a lot of time on getting the right equipment and ensuring more efficiency through the layout. That way, one person has enough space to serve and prepare at the same time, versus having an area to prepare and an area to serve so that you’d need two people. After a pizza [assembly] is done, the employee can cut tomatoes, onions and sausage. At 90 Second Pizza, I need only one person for the back and one person for the front.

Pizza started with only pizza, and we go through about 40 bags of flour a week, at 50 pounds a bag, so we make a lot. We also have a restaurant, with pizza, pasta, steak and fish, but we change the menu: During the week, the menu is a little bit quicker, and during the weekend, we’ve taken out all of the complicated dishes to make the pizza faster. So we have a weekend menu, a lunch menu, and a rest of the week menu. Ninety or 95% of customers won’t even know, because most don’t come every day, but we can still accommodate people’s requests if needed.

2. DON’T BE AFRAID OF GIVEAWAYS. I put somebody outside, giving away free samples, to increase sales. Of course, that also will increase the payroll. The way I calculate it, I bring in maybe 10 pizza sales for those four hours, which is about $70 to $80. So [financially], it’s a wash, but I have a chance to pick up some new customers.

3. STREAMLINE WHEN POSSIBLE. I firmly believe if you have a good product, you won’t need to have ice cream, coffee, potato chips, all those things. Having too many dishes requires different skills of people working, which can create a lot of mistakes. My concept of 90 Second

4. ESTABLISH AND ENFORCE PROCEDURES. Let’s say your employees take the broom and put it behind the oven tomorrow, put it behind the sink the next day, then later put it behind the back door. Say they also do that with a knife, a pen, a fork, the scoops—all of the equipment that you use. Every item has a place, and every place has an item. This ties into point No. 1, payroll. Without procedures, you’re slowing down the system. When I go to the restaurant and see something that’s out of order, I take a picture and send it to the to the group to correct the problem. You want to fix problems right away, so employees don’t get into bad habits. Bad habits grow like mushrooms—better than good habits, that’s for sure!

Tracy Morin is PMQ’s associate editor.

Tried-and-True

DOUGH HACKS

S T S T

Award-winning

pizzaioli share their

top tips for handling one of the most important—and most delicate—facets of your operation: dough.

BY TRACY MORIN

THESE DAYS, WHO ISN’T LOOKING for a troubleshooting tip, a time-saving trick or an insider strategy to help give their business an edge? When it comes to the competitive world of pizza making—and pleasing customers who believe you’re only as good as your last pie—everyone could use a leg up. Fortunately, while the pizza biz may be competitive, its shining stars are anything but cutthroat. They’re happy to share the tips, tricks and techniques that have worked to catapult them to national and global recognition. Read on for the most valuable dough knowledge that four of these award-winning experts have acquired over years in the pizza business.

Wilhelm Rodriguez •••

Owner, Papa’s Pizza, Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico Rodriguez, a member of PMQ’s U.S. Pizza Team and speaker at this month’s Pizza Power Forum, recently won first place in the 2025 International Pizza Challenge in both the Traditional and Traditional International categories, as well as second place in Pizza Maker of the Year.

1. Control your time and temperature religiously. Most dough failures come from ignoring temperature. Dough doesn’t care about your schedule—it follows its own rules. Always measure your water temperature to hit your desired finished dough temp. Use an infrared thermometer for your flour if needed. Even 5°F difference can change fermentation dramatically.

2. Cold fermentation is your friend. Long, cold fermentation develops flavor and strength while giving you more predictability in busy operations. I often use 48 to 72 hours in cold storage. Just remember to let dough balls equilibrate at room temp before opening, so you don’t fight with elasticity.

3. Embrace higher hydration. More water in your dough isn’t just better—it’s transformative. Higher hydration gives you better oven spring, open crumb and a softer interior with a crisp crust. But you have to learn how to manage it: Use proper mixing times, adjust for your flour’s absorption and train your team so they don’t panic

“More water in your dough isn’t just better—it’s transformative. Higher hydration gives you better oven spring, open crumb and a softer interior with a crisp crust.”

Wilhelm Rodriguez, Papa’s Pizza

when handling stickier dough. Don’t be afraid to push your hydration higher over time—it’s one of the best ways to elevate your pizza.

4. Don’t rush the bulk ferment. One of the biggest mistakes is skipping or shortening bulk fermentation to save time. But that early development is key to extensibility and flavor. Even in a busy shop, find a workflow that makes it part of your process.

5. Use the right tools—but don’t let them do all the work. Sheeters and rollers are great, but they can degas your dough if you’re not careful. For artisan or Neapolitan styles, I never use them. For tavern or Detroit styles, they can help with consistency. Know your style, and train your staff to use the tools properly—not as shortcuts that lead to poor dough management.

Published three days a week— Monday, Wednesday and Friday— Pizza Pulse offers the latest industry news, pizzeria and chef profiles, marketing ideas, success stories and more.

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#PizzaGold delivers monthly news, recipes and strategies for success from members of the U.S. Pizza Team, plus info on pizza-making competitions around the U.S. and the world.

6. Embrace par-baking strategically. Par-baking can solve many problems: managing rush periods, ensuring consistent bakes for difficult toppings, or improving structure for tavern or Detroit styles. But don’t let it become a crutch for underfermented or poorly managed dough.

7. Educate your team. Your staff is your quality control. Teach them to read dough. Show them signs of overproofing or underproofing. Make them check temperatures. Empower them to say, “This dough isn’t ready,” even during a rush.

8. Master the process. Your dough recipe is only a starting point. It’s the process—your discipline with time, temperature and fermentation—that makes great pizza. Don’t chase hacks that skip those fundamentals. Instead, master the basics so you can adapt to any kitchen, oven or style you want to serve.

Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow •••

Co-chefs, Flour + Water Pizzeria, San Francisco, CA

Flour + Water and its co-chefs have been extensively recognized, including by the James Beard Foundation, Forbes and Zagat.

1. Control = consistency. When working with dough, it’s essential to control your variables as much as possible to ensure consistency and to eliminate any external factors that could compromise the flavor and texture. At Flour + Water Pizzeria, we are fortunate to have a dedicated

Dough Room, where we’ve established protocols that allow us to ensure the best possible product every time. We start by taking the temperature of the flour and air within the Dough Room; this dictates the temperature of the (always) filtered water to account for the friction factor (the heat that is generated from mixing and kneading). We further control temperature during the fermentation process by using a proofer retarder.

2. Experiment with a pre-ferment. Because pizza dough has so few ingredients, we use a pre-ferment to develop additional flavor complexity. Using a pre-ferment is also beneficial if you have limited refrigeration space in your pizzeria.

3. Minimize flour. When stretching the dough, use the least amount of flour possible on your stretching surface to avoid sticking. Similarly, minimize the amount of flour on your pizza peel when firing the pizza. Too much flour on the undercarriage of the dough will create an unappetizing chalky texture on the exterior that detracts from the finished product.

“Because pizza dough has so few ingredients, we use a pre-ferment to develop additional flavor complexity.”

Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow, Flour + Water

Robert Garvey •••

Co-owner, Robert’s Pizza and Dough Co., Chicago, IL

In 2025, Robert’s was named the country’s sixth-best pizzeria in the 50 Top Pizza USA rankings—a significant jump from its 10th-place finish in 2024.

1. Choose weights over measures. One of the most important things for me is weighing everything—the water, flour, yeast, oil, etc. If you’re using measures of any kind, they aren’t consistent enough to make you consistent! People think a certain container of water, for instance, is going to be the same every time they pick it up, and it’s not the same. Weigh all of your product before you mix the dough.

2. Take temperatures. I always activate the yeast with 70°F water. If it’s colder than that, it takes much longer for the dough to respond. Also be aware of the ambient temperature of the room you’re in. If the room is cold, the dough takes a longer time to knead. I like to stay pretty steady at 72°F room temperature, which keeps everything consistent.

3. Be patient with fermentation. A lot of the dough’s flavor has to do with fermentation. At least a 48-hour fermentation time is critical to get the

“One of the most important things for me is weighing everything—the water, flour, yeast, oil, etc. Measures aren’t consistent enough to make you consistent!”

Robert Garvey, Robert’s Pizza and Dough Co.

proper fermentation and proper flavor in the crust. The issue with that, though, is you need the cooler space to do it. I know other pizza makers don’t refrigerate at all and do a 24-hour ferment. I’ve tried to do it in a 24-hour period, but I just don’t like the results.

4. Monitor the oven. Make sure that your oven temperature is consistent. I use a gas-fired brick oven, so each pizza will drop the stone temperature underneath it, just under the circle of the pie, by about 50°. So, for a consistent product, you want to be sure that the stone comes back to temperature before you cook your next pizza—which, in my case, means about a five-minute recovery time. Otherwise, you end up with a pizza that is absolutely beautiful on top and white on the bottom. So be patient, ensuring your oven is up to temperature each time. I use temperature guns to make sure.

5. Train staff step by step. When everybody is doing the same thing the same way, there’s consistency of the product. Every step of the process is really important— whether it’s the stretcher, the builder, the baker, the expediter—and everybody has a specific role to fill. It’s not just one item, but a team effort, so training and communication among the team is critical. The more training I do, the more skilled my guys become and the better the product is. As each year goes by, we just get better and more consistent.

Tracy Morin is PMQ’s associate editor.

minimal MENUS

Three pizzeria owners embrace smaller menus to streamline costs and reduce complications—while thrilling customers with their carefully edited selections.

BY TRACY MORIN

THE IDEA OF DOWNSIZING A MENU can strike fear into the hearts of pizzeria owners. What if customers flee for the local competitor? What will you tell the disappointed guest whose favorite topping or specialty pie didn’t make the menu?

But for some owners, embracing menu minimalism has created maximum success. While meeting goals like streamlined operations, lower costs and optimal employee efficiency, these three operators are proving the adage that quality is more important than quantity.

Case Study #1: Focused, Intentional— and Award-Winning

For Marisol Doyle, co-owner/pizzaiola at Leña Pizza + Bagels in Cleveland, Mississippi, having a minimal menu clearly isn’t inhibiting her performance—she was recently ranked No. 38 in the U.S. by 50 Top Pizza and No. 77 worldwide by The Best Pizza Awards. In fact, slow, steady progress has always been a top priority, as well as a necessity, for her and her husband, co-owner Rory Doyle.

“We started with a very small menu while doing popups at Leña,” Marisol recalls. “In the beginning, we couldn’t find workers for a long time, but we needed to open. With a limited team, a small menu made it possible. It also helped us train our staff, streamline ordering and work through operational issues. We gradually added more items to the menu, but starting small really helped us troubleshoot and grow more intentionally. If you start with an expansive menu, you risk upsetting customers when you start cutting out items.”

No restaurateur wants to tell customers their usual favorites, like pasta, wings or ranch dressing, aren’t available (though, since Leña is a Neapolitan concept, certain items wouldn’t likely make the menu anyway). “It can be tough to explain that we focus on doing a few things really well, rather than offering a wide variety,” Marisol admits. “Neapolitan pizza is best with minimal

“A smaller menu helps reduce waste and ensures that everything we use is fresh and at its best.”

Marisol Doyle, Leña Pizza + Bagels

ingredients so you can really taste the dough and the sauce. But in the Mississippi Delta, that’s a challenge— people expect to see lots of toppings. For us, the meat lover’s pizza became a must-have. When it wasn’t on the menu, customers asked for it all the time.”

Starting with staples like the Margherita and pepperoni, the Doyles built from there—adding a veggie option and some of their favorites, like prosciutto and arugula. After listening to customers, they also created the popular Truffle Ricotta Mushroom. “One thing that really sets us apart is our weekly special, where we try to offer something completely new, or bring back a pizza that was really popular when we offered it as a special in the past,” Marisol says. “This is where our creativity shines, and it keeps our customers excited.”

Finally, a focused and intentional menu allows Leña to make the most of what’s always on hand: quality tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and dough. “A smaller menu helps reduce waste,” Marisol explains, “and ensures that everything we use is fresh and at its best.”

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“We can build and bake pizzas continuously, and while the line might be down the block, it moves fast. When a customer orders, it usually takes less than 30 seconds to get the pizza to them.”

Vanessa Vichit-Vadakan, The Cheese Board Collective

Case Study #2: The One-Slice Wonder

The Cheese Board Collective, a worker-owned cooperative in Berkeley, California, takes minimalism to the max: There’s only one specialty pizza, always vegetarian—available by the slice or in whole and half pies—plus one salad of the day, both of which change daily. Small accompaniments, like housemade hot sauce, roasted garlic bulbs, ice cream, cookies and drinks round out the tiny menu.

“We work in very high volume at a low price point, and having a lean menu allows us to meet that volume in an efficient way,” says Vanessa Vichit-Vadakan, workerowner. “We can build and bake pizzas continuously, and while the line might be down the block, it moves fast. When each customer orders, it usually takes less than 30 seconds for us to get the pizza to them, because there is a constant stream of pizzas coming out of the oven. Having this trim menu is great for service, helps to streamline our produce ordering and often allows us to get better prices.”

The biggest challenge with a minimal menu, says Vichit-Vadakan, is handling the natural ebbs and flows that occur with only one pizza on the menu. Customers tend to look at the menu ahead of time and decide what day they want to come—instead of just dropping by to get whatever is on offer (or whatever they may want) that day.

However, Cheese Board sweetens the deal by offering a “pizza sliver,” a free bonus half-slice or two, depending on how much pizza the customer orders. “It started as a way to make up for unevenly cut pizza slices and carried on as a little gesture of generosity, which is a core ethic of our business,” Vichit-Vadakan explains. “Our menu also stands out because we use interesting cheeses, sometimes locally made—either blended with the mozzarella, as part of the build, or as garnish.”

The worker-owners also try to create a menu that’s as seasonal as possible (while still rotating favorite pies even off-season, like a basil pesto in winter or a roasted potato in summer). “Corn and tomato are so popular in summer that we feature ‘corn week’ and ‘tomato week’ to really highlight the wonderful local produce we have available,” says Vichit-Vadakan. “Last year, we went through about 1,700 pounds of fresh heirloom, Roma, Early Girl and cherry tomatoes for tomato week! We’re also good about finding other uses for leftovers—rolling them into a new pizza or salad topping, usually. When we’re able to, we donate extra produce, salad dressings and other ingredients to local food justice organizations.”

Case Study #3: Survival Skills

During the COVID era, Rebecca and Dutch van Oostendorp, owners of Tribecca Allie Cafe in Sardis, Mississippi, were looking for ways to downsize as customer visits slowed. They pared down a fuller menu of pizza, meals and specials to five specialty pies (plus create-your-own pies and calzones), three flatbreads and basic desserts. Hours were whittled to three dinner services weekly, and table service changed to counter ordering (handled by a volunteer) with customer-bussed tables.

“It became cost-prohibitive to try to maintain a lot of different ingredients,” Rebecca explains. “We were able to reduce our refrigeration as well as our inventory by eliminating the meals. It’s disappointing to some folks, but on occasion, I still do them, as a surprise. Going from full-service to basically self-service saves us an enormous amount on costs as well.”

“We always had the goal of keeping things simple, like Pizzeria Bianco in Arizona,” Dutch adds. “It made sense to streamline our supply chain during the pandemic, and it allows us to not tie up a lot of cash in inventory. So when it came to paring down, we had to ask: What pizza gives me the most margin for the revenue dollar? Taking certain things out allowed us to just keep the things that we sell the most of and then sell the most of those.”

Dutch notes that downsizing the menu reduces the number of variables—front and back of house—while cutting hours to the busiest time slots reduces variables like labor and overhead costs. “We simplified the way we looked at things,” Dutch says. “In the five years or so since the start of COVID, I can think of maybe five times where somebody left because we didn’t have something they wanted.”

Tribecca Allie also boosts its bottom line with an easy add-on: fresh bread loaves from its wood-fired oven. “Some days, they’ll sell out completely,” Dutch notes. “Other days, they don’t. But I can cross-utilize— I’m already buying flour and yeast, and it’s a relatively low-food-cost item. The bread is a little bit higher in labor cost, but it’s a good complement—it increases our revenue a little and fits with the rest of the concept. Customers can come in, grab a pizza, and go home with a loaf of bread to make a sandwich the next day.”

Tracy Morin is PMQ’s associate editor.

“When it came to paring down, we asked: What pizza gives me the most margin for the revenue dollar? taking certain things out allowed us to just keep the things that we sell the most of.”

Dutch van Oostendorp, Tribecca Allie Cafe

SOULMATES ON A SHOESTRING

Maggie and Giovanni Canepa were flat broke when they started Canepa’s Pizza Shop. Here’s how they made it a small-town hit.

BY RICK HYNUM | PHOTOS COURTESY CANEPA’S PIZZA SHOP

CHAT A WHILE WITH MAGGIE AND GIOVANNI CANEPA, the owners of Canepa’s Pizza Shop in Warrensburg, New York, and the term “mom-and-pop shop” won’t immediately spring to mind. Yes, their restaurant is a small indie operation with just a few tables for dine-in and a focus on carryout. And, yes, they’re the parents of two young boys. And, yes, one of those boys just might pop up on camera during a Zoom call—ready for a little mischief, maybe even sporting a rose behind the ear for humorous effect. (This actually happened, and we laughed out loud.)

But Canepa’s isn’t your mom and pop’s mom-andpop shop. Well, it actually is, in some respects, but the Canepas are young, charming and innovative, not to mention fit and active. Which is a good thing, since they were flat broke when they launched their pizzeria nearly 11 years ago. They had to work their tails off and serve the kind of pizza the locals wanted, even though Giovanni, an experienced pizzaiolo straight out of Sicily, has different tastes.

Situated in the Adirondack Mountains, Warrensburg is a destination site for outdoors lovers during the warmer weather months. But the Canepas knew from the start that they couldn’t power a brand-new pizzeria to success on the sales from just six months a year. When winter blows in, it’s the locals who keep the lights on, so they call the shots. And they don’t want anything too fancy. They just want it to be delicious—and familiar.

For his part, Giovanni leans a little more to the fancy side. He grew up on an olive farm outside Palermo and knows a top-quality, Italian-grown ingredient when he tastes it. He even owned and operated a pizzeria in Palermo before falling hard for Maggie, uprooting his life and moving to the States.

“It’s a little bit impossible here to find the product that I was using [in Sicily],” he says. “You can get close. You can lie to yourself if you want to. You can buy the best quality ingredients you can find, but, still, it’s not the same. If you try to import them, some things stay fine in a can, but others just don’t. Also, in Sicily, it’s very specific—like fresh Mediterranean herbs, the oregano. Sometimes it’s out of this world. The mozzarella is so fresh. My dad comes out with the best and the freshest olive oil the world has ever seen. Even those simple ingredients will change your pizza.”

But, despite Giovanni’s perfectionism, the Canepas are also realists. After all, they founded Canepa’s Pizza Shop in a hurry—and in a tight financial bind.

Down to $270 in the Bank

The couple first met in the U.S., where they were introduced by Giovanni’s cousin. It was a life-changing encounter that Giovanni, surprisingly, doesn’t even remember (Maggie has forgiven this lapse of memory but still teases him about it). Fate brought them together again when Maggie, then a college student, journeyed to Palermo for spring break. This time it was love at, well, second sight. Maggie ended up studying remotely from Palermo, and their romance bloomed.

They later moved back to the U.S., where she wrapped up her degree in English. Giovanni, meanwhile, toiled away at minimum-wage pizzeria jobs, finally becoming a manager—only to be cut loose when that pizzeria was sold. With their lives suddenly upended (again), Giovanni knew one thing for sure: “I don’t want to work for anybody else. I know what I’m doing.”

Giovanni sank nearly every penny they had into a bunch of used equipment to open their own pizzeria. That move took Maggie, still freshly graduated, by surprise. “I was like, ‘All right, maybe we can try something,’” she recalls. “And then immediately he went

out and bought all this equipment without us even having a space for it, and I went nuts, because it was the only money we had. I think it was, like, $13,000, and we didn’t even have that.”

They were down to less than $270 in the bank, with bills to pay, but Maggie believed in her husband—and herself. They found a space that would work and opened their restaurant on a shoestring in the waning days of 2014. “We opened on December 29, in the middle of the holidays,” Maggie says. “My parents were, like, ‘Why are you opening now? Just enjoy the holidays with the family.’ And we’re, like, no, we really have to pay rent on the first.”

“We thought, maybe we’ll make a couple hundred dollars and can pay half the rent,” Giovanni says. “The landlord will be happy with something instead of nothing. At the end of that day, we made $1,700. That was crazy!”

Local Collabs Prime the Pump

After opening, the Canepas worked day and night for nine months straight without a day off. Two sons later joined their family, raising the stakes for the pizzeria’s success. But Maggie and Giovanni were up for the task. Maggie handled the front of house, balanced the books and applied her English-degree skills to marketing the business.

Together, they mastered a tricky balancing act between satisfying the locals’ more traditional pizza tastes and the higher expectations of tourists looking for a culinary adventure. Toward that end, they primed the pump by partnering with Oscar’s Adirondack Smokehouse, a longrunning business next door.

The result: Two collaboration pizzas, created by Giovanni, that sent sales soaring skyward.

First there’s the Local Flavor, featuring meatballs, bacon, red onions and pickles, with the true stars being Oscar’s Smoked American Cheese and Oscar’s More Than Mustard. As for the latter ingredient, Maggie

explains, “The name is what it is. It’s more than mustard, and it tastes very unique. I don’t think I’ve ever tried anything that tastes like it. I’m not exactly sure what they put in it, but it just makes the pizza….And since the second we put it out there and put their name on [the menu description], we can’t stop selling it.”

Then there’s the Smoked Buffalo Bleu (shown on page 54), anchored by Oscar’s Smoked Bleu Cheese, plus buffalo sauce and grilled chicken. “They’re just very popular, locally and regionally,” Maggie says. “It’s crazy. We do other things with their Smoked Bleu Cheese, like we put it on the Four Cheese pizza. So it’s been a great collaboration.”

Those artisan pizzas, along with fusion pies like the Korean BBQ and the Chicken Bang Bang, put Giovanni’s culinary talents on full display. But he doesn’t have to do all of the thinking; several specialty pizzas on the menu have been Maggie’s ideas.

“The truth is, I don’t like change,” Giovanni admits, with a laugh. “My punchline is, ‘Hey, don’t change everything. It’s working out well for us. It’s been 10 years. Why are you changing the menus? Who’s gonna want Korean barbecue? Nobody wants that!’ I’m very conservative. So then she just goes and buys the ingredients anyway, and I have to deal with it.”

He laughs again. “I put my spin on it and do what I think will work well. And, honestly, that’s been the story of our life.”

“Yeah, I have an idea,” Maggie says, “and he just makes it better.”

“Our strong suit on everything—and not just on the pizzas or the menu—is that it’s a soulmate type of thing,” Giovanni adds. “She is what I’m not, and I think I’m what she’s not.”

Rick Hynum is PMQ Pizza’s editor in chief.

United by Cheese

The U.S. Pizza Team stampedes into Buffalo for the 2nd Annual Galbani Summit. BY

BRIAN HERNANDEZ

THE U.S. PIZZA TEAM (USPT) RECENTLY GOT A memorable taste of what happens when passion, product and purpose come together. In mid-July, 10 members of the team headed to Buffalo, New York, for the 2nd Annual USPT Galbani Summit, an exclusive, behind-the-scenes experience hosted by Platinum Sponsor Galbani Professionale at the Lactalis Culinary & Sensory Institute. The event was spearheaded by Galbani’s culinary and sensory teams, offering participants a full day of education, hands-on tastings, and a unique opportunity to give operator feedback to one of the world’s biggest cheese manufacturers.

Attendees included a powerhouse roster of pizzaioli:

• Tore Trupiano, Mangia e Bevi, Oceanside, CA

• Mark and Kira Zabrowski, Much Ado About Pizza, Pleasanton, CA

• Derrick Tung, Paulie Gee’s Logan Square, Chicago, IL

• Mike Pitera, Pizza a Modo Mio, Charleston, SC

• Rico Lunardi, Slice On Broadway, Pittsburgh, PA

• Vitangelo Recchia, Bella Napoli Pizzeria, Port Charlotte, FL

• Ray Cullison, Charlie & The Pizza Factory, Kingman, AZ

• Deserai Satullo and Craig Allenbaugh, Sauced Wood Fired Pizza, Fairview Park, OH

The Cheese Lab: First Impressions

When asked what stood out most during the event, Trupiano, the USPT’s team captain, doesn’t miss a beat. “Oh, you mean the playground for pizza minds?” he says with a laugh. “I was really surprised by the number of different moving parts and products— from chefs to advertising to production to manufacturing to testing and packaging.”

Pitera recalls, “We were privileged to learn how their operation ran—from how mozzarella is made to what happens behind the scenes before and after production. And especially how they’re able to support their customers and support us.”

And no visit to Buffalo would be complete without paying homage to one of the most iconic names in pizza: La Nova Pizzeria. As a proud sponsor of the U.S. Pizza Team, La Nova opened its doors (and ovens) to the squad for a post-event feast and kitchen tour. Multiple generations of the Todaro family were on hand to welcome the team with that signature mix of Italian hospitality, Buffalo pride and enough pizza to feed a stadium.

“Hanging out with Joe Todaro and his family brought it all full circle for me,” Trupiano says.

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“I remember meeting them back in the Pizza Festival days in Vegas—[when I was] wide-eyed, just starting out. Watching them grow, not just as a brand but as a family that really cares about their community... they’ve never lost that balance of hustle and heart.”

A Team-Building Environment

The two-day summit wasn’t just about products; it was about people. It offered the USPT a rare opportunity to regroup, recharge and reimagine their role in the pizza industry. While competitions and conferences sharpen their skills, team-building summits like this forge the kind of relationships that make the USPT more than a roster—it’s a family.

“This was a really great team-building environment,” Pitera says. “It pushed the team to move in a great direction. Galbani letting us cook in their brandnew kitchen helped build the team stronger from both ends: Galbani and USPT, USPT and Galbani. That foundation stuck.”

The intimate format allowed for open conversation—not just with fellow pizzaioli, but with the Galbani and Lactalis innovation teams. With the global cheese market facing supply chain shifts, plus changing ingredient trends and increased demand for performance blends, operator insight is more valuable than ever, inside the kitchen and out.

The USPT Galbani Summit also highlighted the evolving role of sponsors in competitive culinary circles. Galbani isn’t just slapping their name on a banner— they’re inviting dialogue, supporting travel and training, and fueling the kind of innovation that ultimately benefits every pizzeria, big or small.

In the end, the USPT left Buffalo not only with bellies full of cheese but notebooks full of ideas and renewed purpose. As the team headed into the second half of the competition season for 2025, they set their sights on future international appearances and more experiences like this to remind them why they do what they do—and who’s behind them every step of the way.

“When makers involve the people actually using the products every day, everyone wins,” Trupiano notes. “Galbani, Lactalis and the USPT may come from all corners of the food world, but when they come together, the message is clear: Better pizza starts with better connections.”

For more information on the U.S. Pizza Team and how to join, email bhernandez@wtwhmedia.com.

Brian Hernandez is PMQ’s associate editor and director of the U.S. Pizza Team. For more information about the U.S. Pizza Team, its members and sponsors, visit USPizzaTeam.com.

FIRING UP THE FUTURE

The U.S. Pizza Team is proud to welcome four new Gold Sponsors—trusted industry leaders and innovators whose dedication to excellence strengthens the team’s mission and helps elevate pizza competitions across the country and beyond.

• Marra Forni – A recognized leader in precisioncrafted commercial ovens and pizza technology

• The Pizza University & Culinary Arts Center – A top destination for professional development in authentic and modern pizza making

• Pizza Tomorrow Summit – A fast-growing industry event that fosters connection, innovation and opportunity. The home base for U.S. Pizza Team competitions, events and shenanigans

• Plant Ahead – A progressive plant-based brand reshaping how operators approach flavor and sustainability

These new partners join an esteemed roster of long-standing sponsors whose continued support makes the U.S. Pizza Team’s training, bonding and success possible:

• Galbani Professionale

• Margherita Meats

• REAL California Milk

• Grain Craft

• La Nova Wings

• Palazzolo’s Cheese Hog

• Univex Corporation

• MFG Tray

• LloydPans

• Gi.Metal

• Lillsun Peels

• PMQ Pizza

ALL HAIL THE BIG CHEESE Captain

Tore Takes the Crown!

The entire U.S. Pizza Team proudly congratulates our captain and friend Tore Trupiano of Mangia e Bevi in Oceanside, California, on a standout performance at the 2025 Real California Pizza Contest in Napa. Leading a squad of three additional USPT members, Tore took top honors in the Big Cheese category with a bold five-cheese creation—and then went on to claim the title of Grand Champion. His passion, precision and leadership continue to set the standard for the team. We’re proud to call him our captain.

For more info on the team’s performance and Tore’s win at the RCPC, visit www.uspizzateam.com/thebigcheese

For more info, visit www.USPizzaTeam.com.

Leona’s Pizzeria

In 1950, Leona Pianetto Molinaro Szemla, owner of Leona’s Pizzeria in Chicago’s Lakeview neighborhood, wasn’t your typical pizzeria founder. For starters, she was female—and she wasn’t your typical 1950s female, either. “She was quite the Italian, but not your old lady stirring sauce in the kitchen,” recalls her grandson, Leon Toia. “She was the fireball in a fur coat and lipstick, amazingly ahead of her time and very strong, because she had to be. The only way to describe her is bigger than life.”

Billy Marino, current CEO and owner, adds that Szemla—whom he calls “a force to be reckoned with”—hasn’t received proper credit for her pizza industry innovations. For example, in 1952, she topped a fleet of cars with massive Leona’s Pizza signs. “She must have been the first in the world with branded delivery cars,” says Marino, whose dad and uncle drove for the pizzeria. “She was known for delivering virtually anywhere around Chicago.”

Szemla’s vivacious, no-nonsense personality and creative spirit made her a formidable entrepreneur. Toia recalls her opening the pizzeria on holidays, feeding anyone who showed up, and streamlining service by running orders on a wire with clothespins. The business inevitably

(Clockwise from top left) Leona Pianetto Molinaro Szemla poses for a portrait; Leona’s cooks take a break in the 1950s; a Leona’s Little Italy location thrives in the 1990s; Leona shows off her fleet of delivery cars; Leona pals around with brother Nicholas “Pat” Pianneto Sr., who also owned a pizzeria.

BY TRACY MORIN

OFILLINOIS

ILL I NOIS

bloomed into more locations—up to 12 under Toia’s decades-long leadership—and became a Windy City household name.

However, after aggressive growth with too-large footprints, the late-2000s economic downturn, and a sale in 2013, Marino inherited a troubled two-location business (with only one open) when he took over in 2022. Since then, he’s downsized square footage while updating operations, and Leona’s now-four locations are thriving as it celebrates 75 years.

Marino, who logged decades in real estate and construction, learned the pizza ropes under Chicago meat legend Gene Fontanini and sets his sights on further growth for “Leona’s 2.0.” “Leona’s needed new life, and we’re giving it: focusing on carryout and delivery; revamping POS, online ordering and catering; digitizing recipes; revitalizing supply and ingredients; and embracing slice culture,” he says. “We always had thin and Sicilian crusts, but we added Detroit—and run out of it almost every night. We want to honor Leona by being creative and at the forefront of what’s happening in pizza while respecting where this brand came from. I told Leon, ‘Your grandmother’s legacy is safe with me.’”

Tracy Morin is PMQ’s associate editor.