Issuu

September 2000

The monthly newsletter for people who live, work or play on the Upper Mississippi River

Vol. 8, No. 9

$2.75

A Good Year for Falcons

Channel Cats Link the Quad Cities

By Pamela Eyden

By Gary W Kramer

ob Anderson doesn't enjoy on power plant smokestacks, buildbuckling himself into a harings or grain elevators. ness and dropping over the Peregrines have done well in edge of a 500-foot cliff above the these human-built homes. The first Mississippi River. power plant nest The edge melts into box was mounted an ocean of space, 11 years ago at the the ground below Northern States looks a lot like Power Plant in water, and the rock Bayport, Minn., on wall is sharp and the St. Croix River. crumbly. Since then, 169 fal'Tm not an excons have fledged pert at this - in ~ from 12 different fact, it really scares plants along the me. The older I get <l': Mississippi and St. the harder it gets," -ÂŁ> Croix. A lot of "' those birds came he admitted. "But I ~ can't quit now. I do from the Raptor it for the birds." Resource Project Anderson, 49, di(RRP), an indepenrector of the Raptor dent, nonprofit orResource Project, ganization based has ascended and in Decorah, Iowa. descended the Dave Kester helps test and band a On a day in heights dozens of peregrine chick. mid-June, Andertimes in the last two son and his assisdecades to place peregrine falcon tant Pete Olson prepared to rappel nesting boxes and eggs, and to down a cliff near Lansing, Iowa. No band and blood-test young falcons. one expected these falcons to be agFor most of those years he worked gressive, but peregrines sometimes

iÂˇ

(Falcons continues on page 2)

hen provincialism along the river was stronger, Rock Island, Moline and East Moline in Illinois and Daven. port in Iowa - known as the Quad Cities - were clearly divided by the Mississippi River. In the 1980s, that attitude began to change as the cities discovered strength in being "joined by a river." Communication and cooperation has given birth to ventures benefiting communities on both shores. Among the most visible are the Channel Cat Water Taxis. These floating shuttlebuses ferry up to 48 passengers on a one-hour loop that stops every 15 minutes at one of (Channel Cats continues on page 3)

What's Inside Festival Map Fall 2000 ................... 5 Current Events Lost Land, Fair to Fowl Fall . .. 6 River Calendar & Almanac Hawk Watches, River Tours ... 8

(Falcons continued from page 1)

defend their nests fiercely. "Those talons are sharp as knives," said one volunteer, "but peregrines usually hit you full force with the backs of their talons as they fly by. That's how they kill their prey. It feels like getting hit with a club." Hence white hard hats are part of the climbers' gear. Last year the female, referred to as *6 IV, and the male, *T / M, nested

twice. Olson, a professional climber who makes a living cleaning windows on tall buildings in Rochester, Minn., frequently volunteers time to the RRP. He clipped two portable cages, aptly called Sky Kennels, to his harness and began rappelling down the cliff. Anderson followed, descending more slowly, until For the first time in decades, peregrines are returning to he maneuvered into "Those talons are sharp as position to remove the the river bluffs to nest. knives, " said one volunteer, birds from the nest box. attached numbered bands to the falMeanwhile, the parents sat on "but peregrines usually hit cons' legs and took blood samples. snags and watched, or flew in swift you full force with the The blood is tested for methyl merfigure-eights, keeping their discury, selenium, chromium, nickel tance, but keeping an eye on the backs of their talons as arsenic and other heavy metals, proceedings. Anderson reached into they fly by. That's how they part of a study paid for by the powthe nest box and transferred the young, gingerly, one at a time, to er industry. Preliminary results kill their prey. It feels like show high levels of mercury in Arcthe Sky Kennels. getting hit with a club. " Safely descended, Olson and Antic peregrines, but nothing unusual derson emerged from the underin Mississippi birds. Big-eyed, snaggle-beaked, imbrush with four healthy peregrines. at a nest box at Lansing's Alliant probably downy, with enormous In a portable lab in the back of a feet that foreshadow their eventual pickup, Anderson and volunteer asPower Plant. When they returned size and power, the birds took the sistants Dave Kester and Amy Ries this spring they found a second nest box high on the wall of an adprocedure calmly. They seemed more curious than anything else. jacent cliff, placed there by the The task was exhausting, esRRP. The birds tried both and pecially on a hot, humid day, chose the cliff home. and it was only half over. To finAnderson was elated. It ish they had to drive to the top marked the first time that of the cliff, rappel down again peregrines shifted from a powand put the birds back. er plant to a cliff, a goal he's "It's taken hundreds of thoubeen working toward for sands of dollars, and thousands many years. The purpose of _ of hours to return the peregrines the June 15 expedition was to to the Mississippi cliffs," Anderrappel down the rock face, retrieve the young falcons from . i son said later. Many organiza~ tions have participated, and the nest box, carry them to a i many people share his excitemobile lab in a truck at the ~ ment at this year's success. But bottom of the cliff, band them Anderson has special reason to and take blood samples, then smile. Many people believed return them safely to the nest peregrines were unlikely to re-esbox - with minimal disturtablish their place on the cliffs, bance to the adults. for several reasons - great First the rappellers lined up horned owls being one. Great precisely above the nest box, horned owls are one of the few directed by assistants with predators of young peregrines. walkie-talkies below. Then Bob Anderson prepares to descend the cliff near the they checked all the gear, Alliant Power Plant downriver from Lansing, Iowa.

(Falcons continues on page 4)

Big River

September 2000

(Channel Cats continued from page 1)

First-time riders Tom and Debbie John Deere Commons Landing in four landings in Illinois and Iowa. Larson from Los Angeles were imdowntown Moline. This is the heart The shuttles are frequently full. pressed with the condition of the of Moline's riverfront development, Hyacinth and Carl Egner and their river and the taxi. So was Tom's two children, Emma and Erika, are anchored by The MARK of the brother Rex and his wife Susan, lotypical riders. On vacation from Quad Cities, a 12,000-seat arena. cals who admitted Maryland, they wanted that it was their first their kids to see the Misride. sissippi and searched for "Thirty years ago, cruise options. When when I lived here," they found they could said Tom, "you either take a dinner wouldn't have wantcruise or the Channel ed to come down Cat, it was an easy deci~ here to the river. Now sion. ~ it's beautiful." For one thing, the ~ C' Don and Mary Lee price is right. Adults pay (5 Snyder of Aurora, Ill., $3.50 and children $1.50 had similar thoughts. to ride all day, and ridDon was raised in ers can get on and off as Rock Island but many times as they learned about the taxi wish. from a brochure in a The first stop each motel. "It's a great morning is the Moline way to get around," Landing on Ben Buttersaid Mary Lee. worth Parkway at Cele- Passengers board and disembark from a Channel Cat Water Taxi. bration Pier. The Park"'We've just spent There's also a Radisson Hotel, four hours in the East Village." way extends along the Moline shore For MetroLINK, the Rock Island for about 4.5 miles and is also part MetroLINKS's Centre Station, T.G.I. of the Great River Trail, which ofCounty Metropolitan Mass Transit Fridays Restaurant and the John fers 55 continuous miles of recreDistrict who manages the taxis with Deere Pavilion, a popular visitor help from Schadler Celebration Rivational trail from Rock Island to center with a museum, a gift shop er Cruises, the purpose of the taxis Thompson, Ill. There are also aland the Planted Earth Restaurant. is clear. most seven miles of trail along the The taxis are piloted by Coast "As a mass transit district," said river on the Iowa shore. Guard-approved captains. A first Rachael Mullins, marketing direcEach boat can handle seven bicymate sells tickets and helps with tor, "our focus is on increased mocles. Many folks like to bike awhile boarding. The passengers sit under bility for our riders. But we know on one side, then taxi to the other a roof, so the boats run in almost shore to ride some more. any weather except high winds, many people see the boats as a tourist attraction." The Parkway landing is also thunder or lightening storms. home to the Celebration Belle, a non(Channel Cats continues on page 4) gambling excursion boat with a ,, snack bar, moored to a barge tied up to shore. From there the boat crosses the river to the Bettendorf Landing at Leach Park, near the Isle of Capri Casino. Next stop is downriver at the Village of East Davenport Landing at the foot of Mound Street. This historical village dates back to the 1850s and has over 75 interesting shops and restaurants. Then the taxi crosses the river again and passes through the old Channel Cat Landings Arsenal canal before docking at the

September 2000

Big River

(Falcons continued from page 2)

But the Lansing peregrines' nestbox is in direct sight of a great horned owl's nest on an adjacent cliff. "They coexisted for eons," Anderson said. In late July, Anderson declared 2000 a good year for falcons. Eleven pairs fledged 31 young from power plants. Three of the Lansing birds still hang around the cliff; the fourth got caught in a stack building and died. A pair at Queens' Bluff south of Winona successfully

fledged one young male. Falcons were observed at eight cliffs in the Upper Mississippi Valley; three pairs fledged young ones and a new pair nesting just north of Alma may also have young. The birds will begin their migration in October. Many wild birds apparently head for South America. They usually fly fast during migration, taking a week or less to cross the U.S. One bird from Alma, Wisconsin, was spotted on an oil platform in the Gulf of Mexico last win-

ter. Another bird that was released in Rochester, New York, and has nested for two years in Omaha, Nebraska, was found in Lima, Peru. City-dwelling peregrines may not migrate, if they can find enough food during the winter. ffi

Because it is the first year with the two new boats, it's hard for MetroLINK to appraise finances. They do know that in spite of bad weather, they carried approximately 50 percent more riders than during the same period last year. Qualified pilots are hard to find. Scott Schadler says he has six now and could easily use two more, because several are retired and only want to work part time. Whether viewed as people movers or tourist attractions, the Channel Cats are increasingly popular. The only folks unhappy with the service are those who wait in line to find there's not enough room. Ticket holders are allowed to board first, so some folks stop at Centre Station in Moline to buy tickets before getting in line. Some grandmas and grandpas laugh about making loop after loop before the grandkids tire of the ride. Nobody seems in a hurry, and there's a general feeling of happiness and good will. Perhaps a retired gentleman traveling with his bike summed it up best. At one landing they were counting empty seats to see if a group could all board. The gentleman approached the captain and offered, "If it's a matter of one seat, I'll be glad to get off here." From Memorial Day to Labor

Day, one vessel operates from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays. Two taxis run on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. and on Sunday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. In September there's only weekend service. ffi

Pamela Eyden lives in Winona, Minn. Her last article for Big River was "Peregrines Return," June 2000.

(Channel Cats continued from page 3)

Some commuters also use the taxis, generally crossing with their bicycles. The initiative for the boats came from Kathy Wine, executive director

"Thirty years ago, when I lived here, " said Tom Larson, ''you wouldn't have wanted to come down here to the river. Now it's beautiful. "

of River Action, to focus attention on the river and promote common interests. River Action had the first taxi built in 1994. The taxi became popular, but the operation suffered from service interruptions. In 1998, MetroLINK took over and realized that two new, much improved vessels were needed. The two 46-by-14-foot vessels, each powered by twin 225 hp John Deere diesels, were placed in service this spring. The original boat was auctioned off to another transit district that wants to explore the idea. Funding, which was slightly over $500,000, came from a combination of local, state and federal money.

Big River

Gary W. Kramer is a boater and a part-time freelance writer who lives in Rock Island, Ill. His last article for Big River was "Steaks, Seafood & Eagles - Dining at the Dock," November 1999.

Big Riverâ„˘ Big River (ISSN 1070-8340) is published monthly by Riverwise, Inc., 111 Riverfront, Suite 204, Winona, MN 55987; (507) 454-5949; fax: (507) 454-2133; email: editors@big-river.com; web site: www.big-river.com Reggie McLeod editor/publisher Molly McGuire assistant editor Mi Ae Lipe-Butterbrodt associate editor Trudy Balcom associate editor Kathy Delano design/marketing Joshua Wolfe researcher office manager Mary Feathergi/1 Subscriptions are $28 for one year, $50 for two years or $2.75 per single issue. Send subscriptions, single copy orders am/ cllange-ofaddress requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN 55987. Second-class postage paid at Winona, MN. POSTMASTER: send cllange-of-address requests to Big River, PO Box 204, Winona, MN 55987. Big River, Volume 8, Number 9 copyright September 2000. Reproduction i11 whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. Printed 011 recycled paper.

September 2000

1 l

St. Cloud

Big River Festivals Fall 2000

Husking Bee Oliver Kelly Farm, Oct. 21-22

Downtown Hoedown, Sept. 9; Millstream Arts Festival, Sept. 24

Elk River ndle/ight Tau) Snelling, 17-19

Minne

Minnesota Tourism Info Victorian Fair, Sept. 16-17; Swan Watch, Nov. 14-15

1-800-657-3700

Onalaska Blues Bash, Sept. 9 Apple/est, Sept. 14-17 La Crescent ·La Crosse Oktoberfest, Sept. 29-0ct. 7

Wisconsin

-------------------------Iowa

Tourism Info 1-800-372-2737

Hawk Watch,

Tourism Info

Sept. 23-24, Effigy Mounds National Monument Harpers Ferry

1-800-345-4692

• Lynxville Fall Windup, Oct. 15

Flea Market, Sept. 2-4; Oct 7-8, 14-15 Marquette Prairie du Chien Villa Louis Carriage Classic, Sept. 9-10 Lumberjack Fest, Sept. 2-3; McGregor • Shihata Orchard Fest, Oct. 7-8; Arts & Crafts Festivals, Oct. 7-8, Oct. 14-15 German Fest, Sept. 22-24; Guttenberg Celebration of the Arts, Sept. 23-24 .Potosi St. Andrew-Thomas Fall Festival,

----------Oct. 24

G~rman Fest, Sept. 1; Dubuque • East Dubuque Fun Day, Sept. 24 R,verf_est, Sept. 8-10'. • Galena Dragon Boat Festival, Sept. 9-10, Tour of Homes, Sept. 23-25; Octoberfest, Oct. 13-15 Autumn Craft Fair, Oct. 7-8 Art Along the River, Oct. 7 Bellevue ,

Savanna Taste of Savanna, Sept. 30-0ct. 1

•Thomson Melon Days, Sept. 2-4

Living History Day, Sept. 16 Clinton. "Fulton Fall Festival, Oct. 7-8 Cam nche "Albany , Princeton ·Cordova Apple/est, Oct. 8 Le Claire •Port Byron Oktoberfest, Sept. 22-24 Bettendorf oline Viva Quad Cities Fiesta, Sept. 16 Riverfront Pops Concert, Sept. 9; Daven ort sland Erin Feis, Sept. 17; Garden Harvest Festival, Oct. 7

Illinois Tourism Info 1-800-223-0121

Oktoberfest, La Crosse, Wisconsin

September 2000

Big River

By Trudy Balcom

Lost Land Trempealeau, Wis. - The village of Trempealeau is missing a few feet of real estate. On the evening of July 11, the towboat Crimson Belle with 11 barges of grain ran aground while approaching the entrance to Lock and Dam 6 near downtown Trempealeau. The pilot repeatedly gunned the engines, attempting to break free. The wash from the tow took out the last few feet of shoreline belonging to the village. The receding bank is now approaching the right-of-way of the busy Burlington Northern and Sante Fe railroad tracks. Jim Meilke, Trempealeau village administrator, said that while the village has taken no action on the matter yet, "It's a concern." He noted that about 25 years ago a onelane road belonging to the village ran along the shore. More recently, it had a transient boat dock near the washed out area.

Mississippi Comes North Wabasha, Minn. - A large "The Corps Cooked the Books" banner greeted attendees of the Mississippi River Commission public meeting, August 14 at Wabasha on board the Mississippi, a huge, 241-foot towboat with a public meeting room. The meeting was part of the commission's annual "low-water inspection tour," a trip from St. Paul to Houma, Louisiana. The sevenmember commission includes Corps of Engineers' military and civilian representatives. The Mississippi River Revival, which erected the banner on shore, joined other environmental groups, including the Audubon Society and the Izaak Walton League, to highlight the environmental cost of the river shipping system. Ed Passey of Wabasha wondered

if there was another way to subsidize agriculture and shipping "other than at the cost of the river." Others were concerned about disposal of dredge spoils. Supporters of shipping, such as a representative of the River Resource Alliance, voiced support for expanding the locks and concern that river shipping might be halted by environmental interests.

He~lo Scenic Byway Washington, DC - You may not have noticed it, but the Great River Road in Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois is now a National Scenic Byway. The Federal Highway Administration (FHWA) bestowed this designation back in June, according to the Mississippi River Parkway Commission. The National Scenic Byways program was created to protect and promote the most scenic highways in the nation. States with roads in the program may apply for federal grants for road maintenance and improvements, and are promoted for tourism by the FHWA. Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana and Mississippi are also applying for the designation. ~

for falconry. Ten western states may, if they want, allow falconers to gather up to five percent of the chicks each year. "Falconers played an important role in bringing peregrines back from the brink of extinction," explained FWS director Jamie Rappaport Clark. ~

Mussels Accommodated Bellevue, Iowa - Plans to riprap the sandy riverbank along Bellevue' s waterfront are being rearranged to accommodate a rare underwater resident, the endangered Higgin's eye pearly mussel. The mussels were discovered during an environmental impact assessment for the riprap project, according to the Dubuque Telegraph Herald (8-3-00). Divers retrieved 400 mussels from the site, representing 18 different species, including 12 Higgin' s eyes. Biologists were delighted to discover that the mussels appeared to be healthy and actively reproducing. The stone was to be brought in by barge, but the boats would crush the mussel beds, which lie in shallow water. The city now plans to transport the rock by truck.

Peregrine Falconry

Clean Carp

Washington D.C. - The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) estimates that over 1,650 pairs of peregrine falcons now nest in the U.S., most in the western states. In the early 1970's, when the bird was placed on the Endangered Species List, there were only 324 pairs. The successful efforts to save the birds, which were removed from the Endangered Species List last year, is a windfall to practitioners of the ancient sport of falconry. The FWS has proposed allowing limited collection of juvenile wild falcons

Davenport, Iowa - Get your dough balls ready, the 11-year ban on eating carp caught in Pool 15 has been lifted. Consumption was banned due to PCB (polychlorinated biphenyls) contamination in 1989. Carp are susceptible to PCBs because of they are bottom feeders. The PCB, a known carcinogen, was traced in the Alcoa Davenport Works plant. Production of PCB was banned in 1977, and declines in PCB levels have been attributed to "site specific cleanup and ... changes in plant operations," ac-

Big River

September 2000

.,.

cording to Marion Conover, chief of the Iowa Department of Natural Resources Fisheries Bureau. >

Fleeting Woes Andalusia, Ill. - While the Corps of Engineers spends $54 million to study the need to increase barge traffic, communities on the upper river struggle with the competing interests of the barges and recreational activities. According to the Quad City Times (8-14-00), Walter Marine Enterprise Inc. and Blackhawk Fleet Inc., both of Davenport, Iowa, are applying to the Corps and state officials for permanent anchor permits in barge fleeting areas. They claim they want to do the right thing for the environment and the community by installing anchorages in the riverbed, so they do not need to tie to trees or islands, which causes damage. Additionally, Blackhawk notes that its application applies to areas already used to fleet barges. The permits, if granted, would also allow the companies to increase the numbers of barges in the fleeting areas. The anchor permit law dates from 1899, and gives permit holders the right to install and maintain anchorages in perpetuity for a onetime fee of $100. The Corps, which issues the permits, says it considers public, environmental and historical issues before granting permits. Paul Inman and Susan Rowley of Rock Island are circulating a petition against the requests. "These permits are forever," said Paul, "That's why this is important."

Snow Birds Washington D.C. - Some of the birds you see at your feeder and on the water in the summer now have extra protection in the winter. President Clinton signed the Neotropical Migratory Bird Conservation Act on July 20, according to a report in Outdoor News (8-11-00). The bill provides $5 million annually to protect migratory bird

September 2000

habitat in the Caribbean and Latin America, where many of ducks, orioles, warblers and other songbirds winter. The legislation was authored by Senator Spencer Abraham (R-Michigan) and supported by Ducks Unlimited. >

Fish Nuked Red Wing, Minn. - About 75,000 fish were inadvertently killed at Prairie Island Nuclear Power Plant, near Red Wing, in mid-August by a chemical, Evac, placed in the plant's cooling system. Evac is used to kill zebra mussels which clog the intake pipes of the plant's cooling system, according to a report by the Associated Press (8-18-00). The warm, shallow water of the discharge channel makes it inviting to small fish. Visit the Big River Homepage (www.big-river.com) for links to information about stories marked with the >. Also, check our web site for many other useful river links, updated calendar information and river books, t-shirts and other interesting gifts.

with statistical predictions, and hunter expectations. The FWS got a lot of complaints from hunters last year after it predicted a record duck flight of 105 million, and poor hunting followed in many areas, according to Outdoor News (8-11-00). The final prediction, 90 million ducks, is down slightly due to poor habitat conditions in many areas with dry weather last spring. That means average and below hunting success for the Upper Mississippi flyway this fall. >

Not Safe Yet Savanna, Ill. - The Savanna Army Depot will not be open to the public any time soon. The Army's former munitions testing and storage facility is being searched for UXO - unexploded ordnance, (see "From Bombs to Prairie Flowers," Big River, August 1997). Three percent of the upland area of the Depot is being surveyed in 100-by-100foot grids. The final report recommending which areas need to be cleared of UXO and which need more study, will be out next spring.

Homecoming The chemical treatment for zebra mussels is approved by the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency and was used in legal amounts. The plant's site manager acknowledged that Evac was used in higher amounts this year than in the past. The chemical is said to have no residual effects; birds who eat the dead fish will not be harmed. Northern States Power, which owns and operates the plant, will be required to pay restitution for the loss of the fish.

Fair to Fowl Fall Washington, D.C. -The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) released its final fall flight index of ducks. The forecast helps hunters predict the numbers of birds available for hunting. But the many variables of the natural world can play havoc

Big River

Mendota, Minn. - One hundred forty-nine years after they relinquished most of southern Minnesota to the U.S., the Mendota Mdewakanton Dakota hosted a pow wow near the site where the Treaty of Mendota was signed. "Mendota," a Dakota word that means "place where the waters meet," refers to the area, just south of the Twin Cities, where the Minnesota River empties into the Mississippi. The pow wow is part of a campaign by the Mendota, a band of 280 people, to achieve federal recognition as a tribe, according to the St. Paul Pioneer Press (8-5-00). Tribal cultural chairman Jim Anderson said "According to our creation stories we came from this place where the two river join. Our elders have been waiting for us, the people, to come back home ... " ยง

Special Events & Festivals September 1 German Fest, Dubuque, Iowa. 2 Rock At the Dock, Maiden Rock, Wis. 2-3 Lumberjack Fest, McGregor, Iowa.

30 Hawk Watch, Wyalusing State Park, Bagley, Wis., (608) 996-2261. 30 - Oct. 1 Taste of Savanna, Savanna, Ill. Effigy Mounds National Monument, Harpers Ferry, Iowa, (319) 873-3491.

2-4 Mark Twain Days, Alma, Wis.

1 Chautauqua Series, 8 p.m.

2-4 Melon Days, Thomson, Ill.

23 Bird Walk, 8 a.m.

8-10 Prescott Daze, Prescott, Wis.

23-24 Hawk Watch

8-10 Riverfest, Dubuque, Iowa. 9 A Night in the Woods, 5 p.m. - 9 a.m., Hixon Forest Nature Center, La Crosse, Wis., register, (608) 784-0303. 9 Pickwick Mill Days, Pickwick, Minn. 9-10 Watermelon Fest, Kellogg, Minn. 9-10 Villa Louis Carriage Classic, Prairie du Chien, Wis. 10 St. Paul (Minn.) Classic Bike Tour, 7:15 a.m. - 9:30 a.m., (612) 882-3180. 13 Birding Boat Trip, 10 a.m., Harriet Island, St. Paul, Minn., (651) 227-1100.

Meetings & Hearings September 5 Minnesota River Valley Birding Trail, 7:30 p.m., Audubon Chapter of Minneapolis, Mayflower Church, 109 Diamond Lake Road, (612) 926-4205. 6 Upper Missisippi birding, 7 p.m., Hiawatha Valley Audubon, Lake Lodge, Winona, Minn., (507) 452-8904. 14 Peregrine Falcons Come Home to Roost, 7 p.m., St. Paul (Minn.) Audubon, Falcon Heights City Hall.

14 Lower Wis. Riverway Board, 5 p.m., Public Library, Spring Green, Wis.

Workshops & Conferences September 8-10 Mississippi River Basin Alliance Annual Conference, Memphis (Tenn.) Marriott Downtown (612) 870-3441. 15-17 Audubon Society Celebration of the Upper Mississippi River, Sinsinawa Mound Conference Center, Sinsinawa, Wis., (651) 290-1695. ~ Audubon Ark River Tour 2000 Week One (651) 290-1695 Sept. 30 - Oct. 1 Cairo, Ill. October 2 Commerce, Mo. and Thebes, Ill. October 3 Cape Girardeau, Mo. October 5 Chester, Ill. October 6 Ste. Genevieve, Mo. October 8 St. Louis, Mo.

14-17 Applefest, La Crescent, Minn. 16 Canoe the Mighty Mississippi, 1 p.m., Merrick State Park, Fountain City, Wis., 1-888-947-2757. ' 16 Living History Day, Clinton, Iowa. 16 Main Street Festival, Hastings, Minn. 16-17 Victorian Fair, Winona, Minn. 16-17 Laura Ingalls Wilder Festival, Pepin, Wis. 17 Bike the Mighty Mississippi, 3 p.m., Merrick State Park, Fountain City, Wis., 1-888-947-2757.

Almanac

17 St. Charles Festival, Cassville, Wis.

By Kenny Salwey

22-24 Oktoberfest, Bettendorf, Iowa.

Long, graceful shadows grew beneath the trees as the September sun slid toward the horizon. My eyes followed Mary Kay's outstretched arm as she pointed to a whirling, cylindrical cloud of flying ants emerging from a nearby meadow. Hovering slightly above them, a good-sized group of dragonflies rose skyward with the ants. Suddenly a flock of swallows appeared out of nowhere to fly long, swooping "fighter plane" patterns just above the dragonflies. The spectacle was highlighted by a deep blue sky with a background of rosy red in the west. Mary Kay, our dogs Webster and Spider and I, seemed suspended in time and place. The meadow, sun, sky and surrounding trees became a magnificent stage. The flying ants, dragonflies and swallows were actors playing out an ancient drama performed since the beginning of time. We were their privileged audience - spellbound, horrified and delighted. As the sun disappeared beyond the tree tops, the ants did the same beneath the goldenrod and burdocks. The swallows and dragonflies wandered off until only a few of each pursued a few scattered ants. Mary Kay and I discussed the drama in quiet tones. No doubt the warm September afternoon brought the ants. The dragonflies fed on them first with the swallows picking off those who rose higher. Questions remained. Were the dragonflies and swallows migrating? How did the dragonflies find the ants? How did the swallows find both? How often does this happen? The great Circle of Life seems to hold more questions than answers.

22-24 German Fest, Guttenberg, Iowa. 23 Mississippi River Tour, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m., Coon Rapids Dam, Brooklyn Park, Minn., pre-register, (651) 222-2193. 23 Paddle the Mighty Mississippi, 9:30 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m. - 5 p.m., Hidden Falls, Mississippi River Blvd., St. Paul, Minn., 1-800-728-0719. 23-24 Tour of Homes, Galena, Ill. 23-24 Celebration of the Arts, Guttenberg, Iowa. 24 Millstream Arts Festival, St. Cloud, Minn. 24 Fun Day, East Dubuque, Ill. 24 Harvest Fest, Hastings, Minn. 29-Oct. 7 Oktoberfest, La Crosse, Wis.

Big River

, September 2000