Local Vibes
In the moment- with Aylana Zanville Founder of “Ola Chica - fashionable, functional swim & surfwear”. Photo: TYG Photo 114 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
I
n early 2020, as I began preparing the layout for this issue, I reached out to a very special group online, the @WOMENWHOSURF Facebook group, who, at the time boasted a little over 5,000 members from around the globe (now over 10,000 members!). My offer was simple. If you’ve ever wanted to be in a womens surf magazine, send me your favorite personal surfing photo (with the photographers permission), and I’ll include it in our #snapshot2020 Women Who Surf feature. I wanted to document as many of our lovely water ladies, with their all-levels surf stoke, and their many unique friendships with the water, as I could. Dozens from around the globe responded. From frigid Nova Scotia, to the warm waters of Central America, Hawaii, the Caribbean, the South Pacific, and beyond.. The good, the funny, the not-really-the-best quality or lighting... We loved them all, and tried to include as many as possible. THANK YOU to everyone who took the time to be a part of our Women Who Surf #wssmsnapshot2020 n Sandra Olson | WSSM
WOMEN WHO SURF
#
wssmsnapshot2020
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n MAIZE ANGELA BLAIR Photo: Emmitt Harrow
m DEEPA WILLIAMS
31 year old Deepa Williams (originally from India) after her 1st surf session at Port Aransas, Texas, with lifelong surfers, Tom Williams (her father-inlaw) and Pat Williams (right/Tom’s brother). She’s HOOKED!
KAREN CHAKMAKIAN l Photo: Citlali Chalvignac
APRIL BONDI Photo: Tiffani Bondi ANNA SODERLUND l Popoyo, Nicaragua Photo: Florencia Vuoto
LUCIA MUNOZ
Karen Chakmakian Photo: William Mertz
n AUDREY MAYOUD Photo: Dana Loftus
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n BARB WHATLEY
“I’m 65 years old, 17 years surfing, 8-year breast cancer survivor (& multiple skin cancers), married 39 years, blessed with 3 adults sons & 2 granddaughters. Life is good.”
m ABIGAIL BACHE
m PIA ARANGO | Photo: Peter Shumar
Photo: Dave Gleeson www.surfshots.com.au
n AUTUMN FRY Photo: Casey Fry
“ n ALTHEA MALLEE (also this photo) Photo: by Rachel Cammell
I consider surfing my “morning practice” - a practice in gratitude, patience, mindfulness, compassion, intention… The list goes on and on. There is no other way I can feel more connected to this planet and universe, than being in the ocean with the moon above me, with the first colors of light seeping and then flooding into the sky. Almost every day there is a new learning, or awareness, that translates into such meaningful ways for my life. - Karen Chakmakian
”
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WOMEN WHO SURF # snapshot2020
“
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Growing up in San Diego, California, close to the ocean, my passion for surfing and being surrounded by nature began at a very young age. I found myself always returning to the shoreline when I needed to feel free and present. It was always my favorite place to be.
At 18 I moved to O’ahu, Hawaii alone, and was shown a whole new life that was centered around all the magic that the sea holds within her. Here I built confidence, connection, and an even greater love for a sense of freedom. Within a couple of years I began traveling and exploring the oceans of the world.
My desire and passion has continued to grow as well as my inner strength and determination. I give credit to the ocean and all that is kept inside of her for allowing me to become me.
”
This photo is from a beautiful island paradise in a country to which I call home for now. Endlessly grateful for this life. Lombok, Indonesia, February 2020.
n
DANA HAMANN
| Photo by: Luois Ruben
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Local Vibes
“
m MIRIAM in Puerto Rico. I submitted this photo
of my friend, Miriam, because rain or shine, she’ll either know what’s up with the the conditions, or be out in them. It’s alway’s good to see her when I paddle out. She’s hard core & has earned her spot not only in the lineup, but also in this feature! - Sandra | Photo: Ted Albritton
I’m 56 and live in Long Beach, California. Surfing has saved my life, following the death of my younger brother in 2016 to a rare cancer. I needed the water more than ever - we grew up surfing together in Hawaii and San Diego. The ocean saves and heals my heart. I feel closer to him when I’m in the sea. I surf for both of us now, and for the rest of my days. m - Aynee O Joujon-Roche
”
AYNEE & GREG m Aynee surfing cold l Bondi Beach, Australia Photo: Ketty Citterio
JESSICA Boynton l Photo: Elyse Quartini Photography
m CHRISSANA WILMOT in St. Thomas, Jamaica Photo: Icah Noel George Wilmot
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k CONNIE KANG in Rincon, PR
n KELLY charging at
Sunzal in El Salvador. “The biggest wave of my life!” Thank you @911surfreport !!
In Tortola with l Chrissana Wilmot & Tiara Jones Photo: Icah Noel George Wilmot
m HALO BOYER
n DEBRA Donoghue “My new rainbow longboard makes me so happy, I love following the rainbow!”
MARTHA DEFOE Photo: Armando Ramirez aka Waxy
n Photo by: MannyVPhoto.com EpicSurfTours.com
n KATE Newton
“This is me at 54 years old in Tamarindo, Costa Rica in April of 2018. I learned at 39 in Waikiki, and it gets better every year!”
Debra Donoghue, surfing the rainbow. Photo: MannyVPhoto.com EpicSurfTours.com
k GiGi LUCAS Photo: JennyHueston
GiGi LUCAS l Photo: Scott Cretul
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WOMEN WHO SURF # snapshot2020
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Danielle Black Lyons Photo: Ryan Szot
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m LAURA KLEES in Cabo, founder Gypsea Life Surf and Travel
Photo by Hannah Walsh
“I read your post in the “Women Who Surf” facebook group and thought I would send a few photos your way that I have taken down here in Costa Rica. I love that your magazine is all-women, as it is so needed. I recently picked up a Surfers Journal and out of the 240 pages, there were two shots of women, and one of them she was just running on the sand with her board. Needless to say, there is work to be done, and you are doing that!” - HANNAH WALSH
nkl Photos from Costa Rica by Hannah Walsh
WOMEN WHO SURF # snapshot2020
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n “Learning to surf 1 1/2 years ago saved my life. I went in for a surgery & woke up to a different (non-authorized) surgery. This consent situation triggered full blown PTSD connected to a sexual assault I experienced at 15 that was repressed. I have such gratitude for surf therapy & the ocean! I feel it’s important to share my story in case another woman might need just a little encouragement to dive in.” - LEANNE Tibiatowski m
n KETTY CITTERIO
“Here I am surfing... I love this pic. It makes me very happy”.
m MEGUMI KASANO
I love that we have a place (Women Who Surf FB group) where women can meet, share information and talk about surfing, etc. Seeing everyone go through different experiences is very inspiring. Thank you for creating a platform for us girls.” Photo: Armando Ortega Ramirez, Olaschidas Video y Fotografia
“
I am 53 years young and learned to surf at 50 when I married a surfer and he taught me. I call myself a “Ragdoll” (not just because I have fabulous wipeouts)... But I am a 3-time breast cancer survivor, and have been sewn up like a little ragdoll. I surfed during chemo, when I had no hair... Never thought a girlygirl like myself could attempt it, not only, such a rugged sport, but to do it bald! With the help of my loving Cocoa Beach Surf Girl Posse and especially my biggest fan, my hubby, I surfed through the storm! Life is such an adventure, so glad I came along! n PAIGE COFFEY
”
Photo: Chris Cee aka “Pookie Bear” Cirrone wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 125
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WOMEN WHO SURF # snapshot2020
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Unknown surfer @ Pipeline, North Shore, Oahu Hawaii Photo by Cory Matsuoka
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TIARA JONES l Photo: Icah Noel George Wilmot LULU AGAN in Rote, Indonesia m Photo: Federico - Liquid Barrel
Lucia Muñoz Photo: MX Surfboards
Danielle Black Lyons Photo: Kat Carney
ODILE VALENZUELA l “I am 34 years old and I have been surfing for almost 3 years. I live in Playa Guasacate, Nicaragua and my home break is Popoyo.” Photo: Renato CG Photography
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n TIARA JONES
Photo: Icah Noel George Wilmot
m DANIELLE BLACK LYONS Photo by: Ryan Szot
Pho t
oM i ch ae lB
tt ne en
|L igh tH e Im ous aging
n DANIIELLE BLACK LYONS Photo by: Brian McDonald
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Local Vibes SAMANTHA KEOWN l Photo: Laurie Glasser NATACHA RADOJEVIC m Photo: Amaramé - Liz Flores “Liz and I are both avid surfers. We live in Higuera Blanca, Nayarit, Mexico. I’m a surf coach and guide., and I train as well for bigger wave surfing. Liz is an amazing photographer, and downhill speed demon on a longboard, lol. If you would like to share our picture and story we would be honored!” - Natacha @oceanismyoffice | @amaremar
SAMANTHA KEOWN Photo: Laurie Glasser
KRISTA TAVERNER l ”I started surfing here in Nova Scotia at 35 and now I’m 46... And I am just as obsessed, or more, as I was on day one!”
WOMEN WHO SURF # snapshot2020
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KYKY RODRIGUEZ “You do a great job with your magazine by keeping all of us stoked! Thanks for that!” Photo: Ted Albritton
n SHAZIA MAZHAR
Photo: Aly Ambler
m Photo by: LAUREN HENSGENS @laurenhensgens
n Kelly A. Morrissey, Teri Rodenas, Martha Defoe, Kimberly Schultz, Jody Clegg | Photo: Lalo Fox
“These are the Rip Mamas! We have been surfing together for over 20 years. All in our 50’s now... Still leaving our husbands at home for surf trips. This photo was taken in Punta Mita, Mexico... One of our favorite places!” - Teri (@ripmamasHB) wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 131
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WOMEN WHO SURF # snapshot2020
“
wssm
I saw your social media post asking for surfers to submit photos for an upcoming issue. What a stoker! Your request stated that candidates do not necessarily have to be the greatest, fittest or youngest surfers. Sounds right up my alley! I am 47 years old. I was born and raised in Ireland and moved to New Jersey in 1996. Four years later, I took up surfing. I am a trial lawyer with my own practice; a lover of animals, I have 3 shelter dogs, and I am a total ocean addict. I am a big believer in supporting local surfboard shapers and surf shops, and while I surf year-round in New Jersey, I love to travel to warm surf destinations in the winter. Mahalo for all that you do for women’s surfing!
”
Samantha Keown
@SurfingIrish | Photo: Laurie Glasser
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r e m m Su
SUN PROTECTION
featuring BRANDS THAT UNDERSTAND FUNCTION + FASHION
PHOTOS by Gabeto Fernandez HAIR & MAKEUP by PELUQUERIA Aguadilla, Puerto Rico 787-891-8423 | @peluqueria MODELS CJ Palma, Breanna Davis, Carolina Aragonés Fred, Charles J
GLIDE GIRLS F CAROLINA (left): Super comfortable “Bloom” 1 MM short sleeve, front zip, reversible springsuit from GlideSoul (glidesoul.com) F BREANNA (right): “Bloom” 1 MM high neck, front zip, one piece swimsuit with an ultra-flattering cut, from GlideSoul (glidesoul.com)
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Summer SIMPLY SUMMER F BREANNA Jacket/Bottoms: Ditch the springsuit and surf more freely with the 1MM long sleeve, front zip, reversible jacket and matching bikini bottoms, in “Bloom” by GlideSoul (glidesoul.com) Bikini Top: “Nikki” reversible sport top in Coral, by Honeygirl Waterwear. (honeygirlwaterwear.com)
MY MARINI F BREANNA Bikini: The versatile (Grace Top) with it’s high neckline and sparkling ribbon at the neck wears well at the beach or out on the town. Paired with the flattering SurfShorts in “Shades of Sundown” by MYMARINI. Visit (mymarini.com) for her most recent collections. Hat: “Chira” - the ultra tropical, wide-brimmed beach hat by Peter Grimm (petergrimm.com)
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SUN PROTECTION
SIRENSONG F BREANNA Ultra flattering, beautiful, feminine, luxurious designer wetsuits from Oahu’s North Shore in Hawaii, by Sirensong Wetsuits. Shown in the gorgeous “Lei” print, and “booty short” bottom, and featuring 2.5mm Yamamoto neoprene from Japan. (sirensongwetsuits.com)
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Summer
SUN PROTECTION
SURF’N ONESIES F BREANNA (left) “Beccy” Long Sleeved One Piece Wana Lagoon with “Wana” Print (Sea Urchin & Coral) in Lagoon/ Teal, by Honeygirl Waterwear. Featuring “key pockets” on both arms, SPF-50 fabric, and can also be worn backwards as a vneck. (honeygirlwaterwear.com) Surfboard: Wave Riding Vehicles (waveridingvehicles.com)
F CJ (middle) “Whale Shark” one-piece from SlipIns. This ultra-flattering front zip, one piece swimsuit offers thumb holes for top-of-hands coverage, and superior sun protection while giving you one of the most flattering cuts on the market. You’ve gotta “SlipIn” to one to believe it! (slipins.com) Surfboard: ChickSticks by Lola Fins: Fins Unlimited (finsunlimited.com)
F CAROLINA (right) The fabulous “Escondido” surf one piece from Costa Rica’s ecoconscious surf brand, Salty Bird. Shown in Bubble Gum Pink, this suit both flatters and protects. (saltybirdsurf.com) Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf)
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Summer
SUN PROTECTION LEGGINGS: Super soft active leggings for both land & sea from Tormenter. Shown in “Cabo Sunset Scales” (tormenterocean.com) BIKINI: “Waimea Surf Top” in Tosca by eco-conscious surf brand, Salty Bird. (saltybirdsurf.com)
LONGBOARD DAYZ F CAROLINA Leggings: Accentuate your femininity in these soft, active leggings from Tormenter. Shown in Reef, featuring a generous side-leg pocket on both legs, and Tormenters flattering signature “heart-shaped booty” design. (tormenterocean.com)
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SALTY BIRD F CJ High quality, recycled nylon fabrics in original prints inspired by the beautiful and bio-diverse jungles and seas of Costa Rica. Salty Birds ecoconscious fabrics are soft, comfortable and offer UPF50+ protection both in and out of the ocean. Shown: “Waimea Surf Top” in Jungle Green, and “Mavericks” surf bottoms, featuring a full coverage bottom and comfy drawstring in the waist for extra security in bigger surf. (saltybirdsurf.com) Hat: “Chira” by Peter Grimm (petergrimm.com)
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Summer
SUN PROTECTION
MORNING LIGHT F BREANNA Bikini Top: “Reversible Triangle Top” in Summer Sea + Black Tie Dye, by Monique Rotteveel®. Perfect for both land & water, double layered and fully reversible in eco-friendly fabrics. (moniquerotteveel.com) Leggings: SlipIns Sea Legs in “Amazing Abalone”. These gorgeous leggings offer 50+ UPF sun protection both in & out of the water, and their quick-drying, non-see-through, breathable fabric is both comfortable and silky. Use them for surf, yoga, or pair them with a cute top for a night out- You’re going to LOVE their versatility! (slipins.com) Coffee Cup: Mother Nature’s Team Shoes: The ultra-lightweight “Maui” in grey from Nomad Footwear (nomadfootwear.com) Hat: “Shady” in white from Peter Grimm (petergrimm.com) Sunglasses: “Ohana” by Peppers Polarized Eyeware (peppersusa.com)
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SUNSET SESS F CJ (left) Bikini Top: “Aurora” top in black by Main Design. This full coverage top keeps you comfy & secure, while offering 3 ways to wear the straps. Made from eco friendly fabric ECONYL® (maindesign.ch) Leggings: SlipIns Sea Legs in “Aqua Mermaid” (slipins.com) Fins: by Fins Unlimited (finsunlimited.com) F BREANNA (right) Leggings: UPF 50+ “Koa Mid-Rise Long Leggings” in Mermaid Tail Blue, with matching “Nikki” reversible sport top, by Honeygirl Waterwear (honeygirlwaterwear.com)
BEACH HAPPY F CHARLES J Boardshorts: “Watercolors” by Just Bones Boardwear. Featuring their patented adjustable waistband, and made with quick-dry material and comfortable 4-way stretch. (justbonesboardwear.com) Hat: “Troy” by Peter Grimm Headwear (petergrimm.com) F BREANNA Beccy Long Sleeved One Piece in “Purple Gardenia” by Honeygirl Waterwear. Featuring “key pockets” on both arms, SPF-50 fabric, it can also be worn backwards as a v-neck. (honeygirlwaterwear.com)
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Summer
SUN PROTECTION
SURF SEARCHING F BREANNA (left) Swimwear by MYMARINI (mymarini.com) F CJ (middle) Surf suit by iaera surf (iaerasurf.com) F CAROLINA (right) Swimwear by My Marini (mymarini.com)
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Summer
SUN PROTECTION
F CAROLINA “Seabody Shine” by MYMARINI. Oh-so-flattering, functional and reversible, with the deep cut in the back (see previous page) this style is a typical MYMARINI suit, perfect for both water & land. Visit (mymarini.com) to see her most recent collections. Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf)
F CJ “NAVA Reversible Bikini Bottoms” in Paradise & Moss. Mid-rise bottoms that flatter your curves, and features soft, seamless edges, so no pinching or tucking around your hips or legs. Pairs beautifully with the “Tani Rashguard” in Paradise, offering a darted bust and curved hip to prevent bunching and riding up, and soft tapered sleeves that keeps the water out. By iaera surf (iaerasurf.com) Surfboard: ChickSticks by Lola
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F BREANNA A unique and modern take on the bikini top, this figure flattering reversible “Surf Top” offers double layered coverage, a darted bust, and relaxed neckline. Paired with the flattering Surf Shorts for a classic MYMARINI silhouette. Visit (mymarini.com) to see her most recent collections! Surfboard: Wave Riding Vehicles (waveridingvehicles.com)
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Summer
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SUN PROTECTION
AUTUMN DREAMS F CAROLINA Sirensong Wetsuits, Oahu Hawaii’s luxury designer wetsuit brand introduces their newest style-- the “Malabar Long-Sleeve Jacket”. Designed for warmth and sun protection with its insulating 2.5mm Yamamoto neoprene from Japan – Yamamoto’s premium limestone-based neoprene, globally regarded as a superior quality & eco-friendly alternative to traditional neoprene. (sirensongwetsuits.com) Bottoms: “Blush Bottom” surf bikini in Riad, by Main Design. The side ties allow you to tighten up in the surf, while the scrunch-back flatters your bum. Part of Main Design’s ecoconscious collection using ECONYL®, a 100% regenerated nylon fibre made from recovered fishing nets and other nylon waste. Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf)
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Summer
SUN PROTECTION
SEA SISTERS F CJ (left) A perfect mix of lightweight neoprene and spandex, this beautifully designed SlipIns Spring Suit in “Tavarua Teal” is a WSSM favorite! Its 1mm (generously cut through the shoulders) neoprene bodice and long sleeve spandex/polyester sleeves offer no resistance in the waterallowing you to conserve energy, while the sleeve cut provides fluid shoulder movement. The boy-cut short keeps everything in place, the high collar reduces water entry while protecting the back of your neck from the sun, and allows your neck to move unrestricted. SUPER COMFY! (slipins.com) Surfboard: ChickSticks by Lola F CAROLINA (middle) “Blue Feather Duster” surfsuit from SlipIns will highlight all your best curves! Offering fast-drying fabric with 4-way stretch, 50+ UPF sun protection, a front zip allowing you to control the attraction factor, and perfect-amount-of-coverage bottom that truly flatters your bum, while staying put in all surf conditions. Not see through, wet or dry. (slipins.com) Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf) F BREANNA (right) Leggings: SlipIns Sea Legs in “Amazing Abalone”. These gorgeous leggings offer 50+ UPF sun protection both in & out of the water, and their quick-drying, nonsee-through breathable fabric is both comfortable and silky. Surf and yoga in them, or pair them with a cute top for a night out- You’re going to LOVE their versatility! (slipins.com) Bikini: “Teya Strappy Triangle Top” in solid teal, by Honeygirl Waterwear (honeygirlwaterwear.com) Surfboard: Wave Riding Vehicles (waveridingvehicles.com)
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Surfer Approved SWIMWEAR
TROPICAL BEAUTY F CAROLINA Designed by a surfer, for other rad surfer girls, this “Merbabe-Phantasm” bottom magically makes every bum look AMAZING! Low rise with beautifully criss-crossed adjustable tie-sides and a cheeky bum. Pair them with Main Designs “Spaghetti” top, with its artful cut that flatters both small and bigger busts. Wear as a crossback for extra security and to eliminate all pressure around your neck as you paddle. This top is part of their ecoconscious collection using ECONYL®, a 100% regenerated nylon fiber made from recovered fishing nets and other nylon waste. This suit is absolutely a WSSM favorite and big wave approved! By Main Design (maindesign.ch) Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf) PHOTOS by Gabeto Fernandez HAIR & MAKEUP by PELUQUERIA Aguadilla, Puerto Rico 787-891-8423 | @peluqueria MODELS CJ Palma, Breanna Davis, Carolina Aragonés Fred, Charles J
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Surfer Approved SWIMWEAR BEACH DAYS F CHARLES J Tropical “Luau” boardshorts made with quick-dry material and a comfortable stretch, with Just Bones Boardwear’s patented adjustable waist. (justbonesboardwear.com) Sunglasses: “Rugged” A classic square-type frame with all natural Mahogany wood arm finishes, by Kreedom. Kreedom’s wood collection features recycled, reclaimed wood transformed into pairs of limited-edition sunglasses. (fortresseyewear.com)
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F BREANNA This suit by Ola Chica is so stunning, you won’t want to get any surf wax on it. This intricate and beautiful one piece, designed by a surfer, flatters your torso with perfectly positioned side cut-outs, and doubles as a show-stopper when paired with jeans for a night out. (olachica.com) Hat: “Desire” by Peter Grimm, from the “Crown of Hearts” collection; the crown of this hat forms a perfect heart. (petergrimm.com) Sunglasses: “Hepcat” by Peppers Polarized Eyeware (peppersusa.com) Bracelet/Ring: “Triple Sandglobe Bracelet” by DUNE. This sterling silver bracelet features three domed, gem-like finished bezels, filled with your favorite sand. “Boho Stack Ring” features three sterling silver interconnected rings and three sand or earth elements, with bezels that are layered to a slightly domed, glass-like finish. (dunejewelry.com)
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Surfer Approved SWIMWEAR F CHARLES J “Surfing USA” super comfortable, 4-way stretch boardshorts by Psycho Tuna, made with recycled plastic water bottles, and featuring a back pocket with hidden zipper. (psychotuna.com) Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf)
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F DAN O “Starry Atlantic” 4-way stretch boardshorts, featuring neoprene side panels for extra stretch, and made with recycled plastic water bottles, by Psycho Tuna. (psychotuna.com) Surfboard: Wave Riding Vehicles (waveridingvehicles.com)
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Surfer Approved SWIMWEAR 160 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
PARADISE FOUND F CAROLINA (right) “Jennifer Eco-friendly Cheeky Bikini Bottom” and “Rose Crop Top” in Bloom, by Sensi Graves Swim. This beautiful crop top and bottoms feature UPF 50+ recycled fabrics and are made in the USA. Bottoms have a delightful ruched-back, and zero elastic around the booty, so they won’t cut into your cheeks. (sensigravesswim.com) Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf)
F CJ (left) “PAVONES One Piece Surf Suit” in Stripes & Blue. This stylish and classy high-neck, sleeveless one-piece surf swimsuit is perfect for both in and out of the water. This strong, stretchy one-piece surf swimsuit is part of Salty Birds eco-conscious line that uses ECONYL®100% regenerated nylon fiber from recovered fish nets and other nylon waste. (saltybirdsurf.com) Surfboard: Wave Riding Vehicles (waveridingvehicles.com)
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Surfer Approved SWIMWEAR 162 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
HONEYGIRLS F CAROLINA (right) “Pili Reversible Sport Top” in Ocean Sea Foam by Hawaii’s #1 womens surf bikini brand, Honeygirl Waterwear. “Natalya Cheeky Bottom” in Sunrise Shell Azure. Reverses to solid blue, this smooth fitting, skimpy bottom features ruching in the center back seam, and an adjustable drawstring waistband that ties in the back. (honeygirlwaterwear.com) Surfboard: Tim Nolte Surfboards (facebook.com/timnoltesurf)
F BREANNA (left) “Shy Reversible Sport Top” in Wana Lagoon. Lightly padded triangle cups (sewn to an inner lining so they won’t move or wrinkle), this pull-over, no ties, cute cross back top is perfect for surfing, yoga, or under your favorite open back dress. “Tabbi Surf Bottom” in Solid Pink with 5 elastic hip straps on each hip that keep this bikini bottom in place while surfing or swimming. The brazil cut is kind of skimpy, but not super skimpy. By Honeygirl Waterwear (honeygirlwaterwear.com) Surfboard: Wave Riding Vehicles (waveridingvehicles.com) Fins: Fins Unlimited (finsunlimited.com)
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Rails & Tails
a m a n a P c i f i c a P By Sandra Olson Photos courtesy of Pietro Ciotti | Hotel Santa Catalina
Back in 2019, while scoping out Surfer Paradise Surf Camp as one of several possible destinations for our upcoming WSSM Surf Retreat for the following year (boy were WE in for a global surprise and delay that next year), Dan and I knew we wanted to explore even further south, to check out some of the other remote areas on the Pacific coast that would hopefully have waves that were comparable to the magic we’d experienced in the Morro Negrito area, further up the coast in the Gulf of Chiriqui. Before taking a group there, we needed to know what accommodations, if any, were available, and what waves were on offer and the skill level needed to surf them. How did transportation work, and was it even available? Everything in Panama is really spread out, so it takes forever to get anywhere. But that’s also part of it’s magic. Surfers traveling through our WSSM Surf House in Puerto Rico, had told us that if we liked the Chiriqui area, then we should also check out Cambutal, Playa Venao, and Santa Catalina, all located on the Pacific coastline further south. Leaving the camera crew behind, the two of us struck out on our own, determined to finally explore these new surf breaks and beach towns. It was going to be a whirlwind of a 10 day exploratory surf trip, but the time had come, to search for more in Pacific Panama.
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gm of hotel santa catalina, and avid surfer, Pietro Ciotti
aerial view of Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina The world renowned town of Santa Catalina is located in the Gulf of Chiriqui, in the state of Veraguas. While well known for some of the biggest ridden waves (including tow-in) in Central America, Santa Catalina is in reality, a tiny fishing and surfing village with a population of approximately 300 people. I researched the area as best I could prior to arrival, and determined that Hotel Santa Catalina would be the best choice for our 2 night visit to the area. It offered a PRIME location-- situated directly in front of the wave, with the only channel to paddle out right there also (if you’re staying elsewhere, you have to hopscotch your way over jagged reef to get to the wave, and time it according to the tides). With a reputation for BIG waves of 20-40’+, my heart was set at ease to see the report was only forecasting 5-7’ waves. Easy! If there’s one thing we learned about Pacific Panama on this adventure, it’s that getting ANYWHERE takes forever, and it’s not cheap, unless you’re willing to ride the local buses- and again, they take forever. I checked the Rome2Rio app on my phone to be sure I had the correct route mapped out, because from Guabala- where we were staying, there aren’t many options for transportation along the main highway, especially when you’re lugging around a gigantic surfboard bag. We asked our camp driver, Raul, if he knew someone that could take us to Santa wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 165
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Oceanfront dining at Pescao is a visual treat, and it’s delicious!
Photos courtesy of Pietro Ciotti | Hotel Santa Catalina
Catalina, and luckily, $80, a good friend of his with a truck, and 2 1/2 hours later, we arrived! What a beautiful and quaint little (tiny) town! A few small restaurants, hostels and dive shops lined the 1 mile (that may be an exaggeration) stretch of what you could call “town”, and we were thrilled to see that Hotel Santa Catalina was going to be a luxurious and comfortable stay for us. Pietro, the hotel manager and avid surfer, acquainted us with the area, showed us their on-site surf shop (perfect for anyone wanting to rent a board or replace essential gear), gave us an overview of everything that HSC offered, and showed us where to paddle out. After unpacking and taking a quick nap, we waxed up, and headed out for an afternoon of fun surf!
Accommodations
A lot of effort has been put into this small resort, with attention to fine linens, comfortable high quality memory foam mattresses, and plump pillows. The artisan woodworking everywhere is beautiful, and the hot water rain showers (such a luxury after surfing), is just one of the many 1st world comforts you’ll enjoy here. Satellite TV, WiFi internet, quiet a/c (a luxury you’ll soon learn is rarely offered elsewhere) rooms with kitchenettes, massage services, yoga classes, and even a small 166 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
park for the kids to play in are all available. Each private room comes with its own hammock and lounge chairs on its front porch, giving you the opportunity to kick back in privacy while enjoying the jungle environment with a hot cup of Panamanian coffee. Can you hear all the birds singing? Speaking of nature, Hotel Santa Catalina is a jungle paradise! Everywhere you look is just bursting with colorful foliage of all shapes and sizes. It is truly a sensory overload, in a FANTASTIC way! Gorgeous flowers line the simple sidewalks that lead you to the open-air “Pescao” restaurant, overlooking the infinity pool and surf break, Santa Catalina. At night, small white bistro lights are strung about, adding romance and charm. FYI, the lounge chairs by the infinity pool are a great place to stargaze and enjoy fresh island beverages and munchies. With 16 rooms available, ranging from standard to double to triple and even family suites, Hotel Santa Catalina is a great option for large groups, offering privacy and unparalleled comfort. Their large dining area offers flexibility for everyone to dine and relax on their own schedules, and with
burgers and chicken, to pasta and fresh seafood, their menu is full of tasty options that are sure to please.
is imperative here. You don’t want to be the one walking the 1/4 mile back to shore over the jagged ocean bed if you get stuck out on a low tide. Pay attention!
Punta Brava Half an hour walk to the
The Waves Santa Catalina With its year-round consistency and easy accessibility (on the right tide) Santa Catalina allows the brave-
of-heart to surf BIG waves without the need for a boat. To be honest, it’s best surfed by intermediate to experienced surfers due to its sheer power and volcanic rock bottom that will do a number on your feet if you dare to put them down, OR if you misjudge the takeoff, OR don’t commit. Santa Catalina can give you the wave of your dreams or the beating of your life. It offers warm water, hollow lefts and rights, and waves that average 4-15’ year round, with the best season being February through August, where faces often reach 20’+. It’s only surfed at a medium-high tide. At low tide, you’ll see the jagged volcanic ocean floor drain out before your eyes. This area boasts shocking tidal changes of up to 16’+, so paying attention to the tides
southeast will bring you to this amazing break that is actually 3-in-1. Offering 2 lefts and a right over a rock bottom, the waves here are usually bigger and more consistent than Santa Catalina, but because of limited accessibility, you’ll often surf it with smaller crowds.
Punta Roca A 45 minute walk to the
northeast brings you to this super hollow left that breaks over a rock bottom. As with other waves in this region, they’re big and best left for intermediate to advanced surfers only (you can also hire a boat
service to take you there and other waves in the area). El Estero A gentle beach break located
a short 10 minute walk from Hotel Santa Catalina, El Estero is located on a beautiful large sandy beach that offers gentle waves for beginners to intermediates. This stretch of beach offers multiple lefts and rights that are sure to keep the less experienced surfers in your group happy (and safe).
The view never gets old here at Santa Catalina, even when you have to wait for the tide to fill in. This is medium tide- draining low. Yes, it goes even lower.
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There are other waves nearby, that are accessible only by boat. These include San Pedrillo and Cimarron (located off a tiny island), as well as several other waves off the islands of Coiba and Cebaco. While we did not have the time to explore these breaks personally, we’re told you can easily hire a local operator to take you them. Just be prepared for it to take 45 minutes to over 3+ hours, depending on the speed and size of the boat that you hire. There you’ll find isolated surf that fires, and as in any part of the world, be sure to be respectful of the locals.
Other Activities Included with your stay at Hotel Santa Catalina, are the use of their bicycles, soft
“
tops, SUPS and kayaks! Waiting for the tide to fill in? Grab a beach cruiser and go explore the little town to sample the artisan shopping, local food, and other nearby beaches. It’s a great way to kill time while waiting for the right conditions, or to wind down after a killer session. Other area activities include fishing and surf charters to the other nearby islands, world class diving and whale watching, kayaking, SUP, and of course, shell collecting.
The History of Santa Catalina
Discovered by a few adventurous & dedicated surfers in the 70’s, and kept as a fiercely guarded secret for almost 10 years by Panama’s surfing elite. It eventually became better known in the 80’s amongst surfers that were looking for uncrowded and more
powerful waves in Panama. So how did the secret get out? Because of their love of the wave, the “original” surfing pioneers began slowly purchasing lots and building the first small hotels in the area, whilst inviting surf media and friends to join them in their secluded jungle paradise. It’s a double edged sword that to this day still can cut deep. While they LOVE to share the beauty of the wave and jungle with others, they also don’t want it overcrowded and popularized either. It’s a careful dance between inevitable progress and a deep and spiritual connection to its surfing roots. Even with their careful progress through the past few decades, Santa Catalina is still an extremely remote, beautiful and isolated area, for those who dare to venture into it. F
Panama, and Santa Catalina specifically, is special because it’s a country of great contrast: the city with the development, and the pristine nature around. The town of Santa Catalina; It’s “the” town of Panama, a small coastal pueblo on the Pacific that gives you the real taste of this environment. After many years traveling and working abroad, I landed here and Santa Catalina gave me what I was looking for. Sure, everyday it’s also a challenge here, and this makes me happy and energetic about what we do. The wave itself is one of the best of Central America and works all year, and the National Park is a huge resource for tourism and we’re focused on preserving it for future generations. Living in this town and working for the best hotel makes me feel that I am one of the luckiest. To describe Panama in one word? FREEDOM.
Pietro Ciotto, GM of HSC
Pietro, in the pit, enjoying the perks of the job at Hotel Santa Catalina Photos courtesy of Pietro Ciotti | Hotel Santa Catalina 168 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
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View of the wave, from Hotel Santa Catalina The tide changes are crazy here! In a few hours, all of this will be submerged.
Book Your Stay at Santa Catalina and enjoy a front-row seat and direct access to the action! Learn more
VISIT: www.hotelsantacatalinapanama.com RESERVATIONS: +(507) 6571-4387 EMAIL: hotelcatalinapanama@gmail.com
*** Tell them WSSM Womens Surf Style Magazine sent you, and be sure to say hello to Pietro for us! You’ll find him killing it out in the surf, or somewhere on the property, ensuring guests are enjoying an unforgettable experience at Hotel Santa Catalina.
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Playa Venao
Art installations on the beach Gotta love the “Love Bus”!
This installation was my favorite!
Playa Venao On a small, extremely remote beach in Panama, on the southernmost tip of the country, lies an unexpected hippie-ish surf community. It’s founders, a broad mix of both Europeans and Israelis, put down roots a few decades ago, and together created a one-of-a-kind bohemian, slightly hedonistic, laid back, nomadic surfing community. It attracts young and adventurous individuals that party all day, and keep on partying into the night. Think of a mini “Burning Man” type of community and experience, but on a remote beach under the stars in Pacific Panama- and there’s good surf out front.
Zuly Brady enjoying Venao Richard Brady @ Venao
And the surf is actually why Playa Venao exists, according to Gigi, the manager of SELINA and our host. Apparently these free-spirited pioneers built their new beach community exclusively around the surf and a laid-back vibe. Seriously. Nothing existed at this beach before they came. No homes, and no commerce. After building a dozen+ small resorts, homes, and a few restaurants, they’ve produced a (more chill) spring break style surfer/nomad/European/Israeli mixing pot of carefree, fun under the sun. Dozens of beautiful 20-40+ something’s, both guys and girls- none of which are in any hurry to leave, descend into this remote area in droves, where beach volleyball, pool side shenanigans, billiards, horseshoes, or hanging out at one of the many beach bars fill their day. While the beach scene is thriving here, surfing is also very popular, and dozens of surfers can be found dotting the water at almost any hour. And it’s easy to see why.
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Pacific Panama
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Waiting for the bus. And... STILL waiting for the bus. It never came.
Playa Venao is gorgeous! This large swath of beautiful beach is fronted by endless beach break waves, that tempt you to come play in them even when your body insists you’ve had enough. Peak after peak after peak lines the beach, with the biggest sets available closer to the right side of the bay. However, a secluded spot can easily be found, as well as a party here. Just keep walking or paddling and you’ll soon be out of all the fun and frenzy. At night, the strange and beautiful art installations that are found scattered along the beach in front of the dozen or so small resorts that line it, light up with unexpected allure. A star-shaped installation transforms in a rainbow of ever changing colors, with a vaulted platform in the center so you can stargaze through the neon lights. A 20 foot plus, giant wooden swing lit up with romantic bistro lights swings abstractly on the beach, often frequented by couples looking for a few quiet moments together. As you meander, different levels of relaxed party vibes are available at each resort property, from more upscale and reserved, to beach bungalows with hammocks swinging, making a stroll down the beach quite an adventure. We were only here for one night and we arrived late, so we barely got to sample all that this unique beach community offers. But from the time we did spend, it is clear that it is THE spot in Panama, to mix and mingle with other traveling singles and groups of adventurous, fun-seeking beachgoers and surfers from around the globe. Play some pool, get a tan, swim, surf directly out front, and just... hang out. That’s pretty much the vibe. As for the wave itself, I was frothing to surf it because of how absolutely beautiful and tranquil it always looks in photos from Richard Brady (@richardbradyfoto). But when we arrived, so did one of the biggest swells of the spring. Not good for a beach break. As evening set in, we surfed a junky, closing out, jumbled up session to get our feet wet, and hoped for the best. We awoke the next morning to 12”+ beautiful to behold, almost perfectly glassy waves rolling in, and just EXPLODING onto the sandbar. Last night’s enthusiastic surf crowd had disappeared, replaced with only 4 or 5, more experienced surfers in two small groups. After surveying the new conditions, we headed for the peak nearer the right side of the bay. It had more size, but was holding up
better also. After a quick prayer for safety, and timing it just right, we dove in, and spent the next hour looking for the right waves. You definitely didn’t want to pick the wrong one, as snapping a board on this day was not an if- it was going to be a when. Weaving our way through the mountains of water that threatened to gobble us up, we enjoyed a couple of heart-whomping waves, racing the sections and kicking out before hitting the destruction on the sandbar. We called it a day. Stoked to have successfully navigated Venao, we walked to a cute little nearby cafe for a simple Panamanian breakfast and a coffee. After packing our bags at SELINA, we were ready to adventure on to Cambutal. Playa Venao, we will be back! I hope for a slightly smaller swell next time. A swell like the ones that have made this beach legendary, causing free-spirited surfers to extend their stay for months and even years. Until then!
ACCOMMODATIONS
Information on this tiny beach community can be hard to find and confusing. After hours of research, we decided on SELINA, and were delighted we picked the right one! Small, but thoughtfully decorated rooms are in abundance, each with their own private bathrooms. SELINA also offers a shared workspace- making this ideal for remote working nomads. There’s a fantastic restaurant and bar connected to the large complex that is located beachside, where the appetizers are absolutely delicious! Here you’ll also find everything else beach related. Volleyball, billiards, a swimming pool, and multiple hangout spots, including a giant school bus decked out with pillows, throws, and beads on all the windows. It’s a great place to disappear from the scene with friends. Their on-site Shokogi Surf School and the SELINA Surf Club experience is on point, so if you do snap a board or perhaps someone in your group needs a lesson, you’re in luck. We also found that the best staff on the beach was at SELINA, as was the best crowd. They’re laid back, and ready for fun. So if you find yourself seeking out a new surf experience and Playa Venao is on your list, SELINA would be an excellent choice for your stay! F VISIT: www.selina.com
(Under “Destinations” look for “Playa Venao”)
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Cambutal When I think about Cambutal, i get quiet inside. it’s almost eerily quiet there; a quiet that can be felt deep into your soul. It slows your heart rate a bit, i feel. when the sun is hiding, it’s a velvety dark, secluded kind of world. When the sun shines, this jungle paradise transforms into something right out of a dream. it’s always quiet.
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I’d heard Cambutal had incredible surf, so after trying, rather unsuccessfully, to research this remote area that is located on the Azuero peninsula of Panama, on the Pacific Coast, I decided to reach out to Hotel Cambutal. The owners, Haley and Albiero, were both surfers, their female management staff surfed, and although they don’t usually offer surf guide services, they were willing to show us around and acquaint us with the area, as it was a possible candidate for our upcoming 2020 WSSM Surf Retreat. Not knowing what to expect as we pulled into Hotel Cambutal, we were amazed at the gorgeous woodworking that was an absolute vision to behold. It was everywhere! The floors, the walls, the decorations, the lights, the furniture… Someone loves working with wood, and is an expert at it. Hotel Cambutal is a woodworker’s dream, and it’s naturally warm tone provided a coziness I wasn’t expecting. It was as though, so beautifully refined, the raw heartbeat of the jungle had been brought inside. First world amenities can be found at Hotel Cambutal, like hot water showers, a beautifully curated pool, beach side chairs, charming lounge areas, and a restaurant that serves up delicious cuisine. Cuisine that exudes attention to presentation and detail. Just like the woodworking, they go over and above to make the experience here unique and beautiful for you. Their lovely manicured lawn leads down to the beach and surf, and offers an incredible view in all directions. Hotel Cambutal would be perfect for a surfers wedding! The alluring black sand beach beckons you to go for a walk; while the ever present surf continuously tries to pull you
Photos courtesy of Hotel Cambutal
back into it’s watery world. It’s a constant tug of war in your head, in a good way. Hotel Cambutal is conveniently fronted by a fun little beach break (which is another reason we chose this hotel), that offers a constant supply of waves with the changing of the tides. Most often, only locals and the occasional surfer from Hotel Cambutal or another nearby resort are in the water, as there aren’t many outsiders that venture this far south. In the water, you can feel the closeness of the Cambutal community of surfers. It’s almost as though they and their families that are also enjoying the surf and beach, are happy to offer you a glimpse inside their world with open hearts. But, when you leave, life will calmly go on as though you were never a participant in their world. It’s regenerating in that way. It can make you feel lucky to have experi-
enced such an untouched place. It can make your regular life back home feel very busy. Cambutal is a wonderfully strange place, or at least it was when we were there. The rainy season was just kicking in, so the forests (yes, there are forests that front the beach) were filled with a subtle, shadowy fog, and intense silence. Mysterious. Strange. Alluring. Silent. But when the sun comes back out, it transforms into the most beautiful, uplifting, fantasy world of tropical birds bursting with song, abundant plant life glistening with fresh rain drops, and all of nature’s finest out on display! It really brings out the HAPPY in you, and it feels so good to be there and to be alive!
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this little gem is directly in front of Hotel Cambutal
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1st world comfort awaits you at Hotel Cambutal
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(Corto) Paddle hard until you make it out and don’t get swept to the left- you want to avoid the rip that pulls you into that rocky graveyard of boulders. Once we hit the peak, make sure you pick the right wave also. the first one isn’t the best usually; it likes to suck you inside, and you might get slammed into a gigantic boulder that’s right on the takeoff spot. that boulder can go dry!
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what a cool table!
As we enjoyed our dinner that first night, it was confirmed that the swell had indeed risen, and was out of the comfort zone of our local surf guides and hotel managers, Ari and Ailyn. There are no water safety services in Cambutal, and help- outside of the local community, isn’t anywhere close by. One must always get themselves out and back in, completely unassisted, 100% of the time, no exceptions. So, acknowledging, respecting and knowing one’s limits is of utmost importance here. I completely understood their position, and respected it. It also, I’m not gonna lie, made me a little nervous for the morning’s session. Not to be set back though, Ailyn called a local from down the street to be our guide for the next morning (Thank you, Ailyn!), and bright and early, we rose to find the swell was now double and a half overhead,
and overcast. The beach break out front couldn’t hold that kind of swell, so we headed to 411 to scope it out. On the way we learned that it’s called 411 (cuatro once) because of its reputation for, on a swell, going from four feet to eleven feet, in a SPLIT second, and you never quite know which wave size you’re going to get. It’s known for being especially gnarly, but having just come out of Puerto Rico’s wave season, we were strong and felt ready. Our new guide showed us where we needed to paddle out, pointing amongst the churning and wind blown monsters of wave sets. “Paddle hard until you make it out and
don’t get swept to the left- You want to avoid the rip that pulls you into that rocky graveyard of boulders. Once we hit the peak, make sure you pick the right wave also. The first one isn’t the best usually, as it likes to suck you inside, and you can get slammed into a gigantic boulder, right on the takeoff spot. That boulder can go dry. Choose the right one though, and you’ll go right around it. It’s a drop and GOOO kinda wave!” Ummm... Ok.
attention to the time though, we still found ourselves dragging fins on the inside as we scrambled onto shore. The tides here are intense!
He also said we needed to keep a close eye on the tide because we only had about an hour and half to surf before we’d need to head back into shore or risk getting scraped up. The tide changes here are dramatic, with levels of up to 18 foot changes. Even with paying careful
Hotel Cambutal owner, Albiero (whom we
After making it out quite easily (thank you, God!) and after a few attempts, checkswings, and finally, successful waves that were thrilling, wild and unpredictable, we headed back to shore, ready for food, some relaxation, and a less-gnarly wave.
found out is also the talented woodworker of Hotel Cambutal), had offered to take
us to Corto, one of his favorite waves, on the following day. It was supposed to be a longboarders dream wave, that on big swell, was also a shortboarders paradise.
Photos courtesy of Hotel Cambutal
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Endless black sand beaches
Even on cloudy days, there’s a special magic here in Cambutal
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Dan, enjoying the free beach bikes from Hotel Cambutal
Epic times with this man!
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Pacific Panama Good times with Ari at Guanica Beach
I’d ride THIS one!
Hotel Cambutal
After a long and adventurous ride down the beach to the furthest point one can go on his 4-person dune buggy, we finally arrived at a gorgeous and secluded beach. Like something out of a dream... Corto was empty, and the waves were overhead and firing. Albeit not perfect, but really good! After careful observation, you needed to time it just right, waiting for the biggest of the sets to roll through before paddling out. Thus, you could avoid the toilet bowl and the partially submerged tree trunks that were on the inside of the bay, over on the left. Those hazards aside, Corto was holding, and was surfable! Waxed and leashed, we waited on the black sand beach for the sets to end, then ventured in together, and enjoyed over an hour of empty surf all to ourselves. We were later joined by another gal, who seemed to appear out of nowhere, but was obviously familiar with the wave. After dropping in on a few, we got our legs under us and had the best time ever on Corto’s fun and chunky waves. Cambutal was finally letting us in on her secrets! Right on que, the cloud cover turned dark and torrential rains poured down on us. So heavy in fact, the shore, a mere 50-80 yards away, could barely be seen. Knowing a barrage of rain water would soon be making its way from the mountains above to our valley below, and that we had to cross three already flowing rivers in order to get back to the hotel, we waved goodbye to our new friend, and paddled in. She disappeared up one of the cliffs, as we drove off in the downpour. As we drove the 2 miles back to Hotel Cambutal, that ride was one wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 177
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of the rainiest and most fun experiences we’ve had in Panama. So FUN! Our three days in Cambutal flew by as we also got to enjoy the nearby surfing beach of Guanica. Another secluded and remote beach break, with charcoal colored black sand, and a rather large and very empty beach bar where you could get something to eat and refresh yourself after a great session. Ari was kind enough to take us there, and after a super fun session together, we all hung out, soaking in the magnificent surroundings. From Guanica, to Cambutal, to Corto- the beaches here are breathtaking. Absolutely untouched. You can’t help but love the tranquillity of the place.
Headed out to Corto
Upon leaving I snapped a few photos of the hotel, and a particular table I fell in love with. I wish it would have fit in my board bag! Some people, such as Albiero in his woodworking, have such talent. And when they turn that talent into something for others to enjoy, they create a magic that is truly unique. THAT is what life is about. Sharing the talents and blessings you’ve received from God, with others. Between the gorgeous and luxurious accommodations, excellent food, good surf, and attentive staff, Hotel Cambutal is an excellent choice for a couples getaway, family gathering, wellness or yoga clinic, surf retreat, or a wedding. The view never gets old at Hotel Cambutal Photos courtesy of Hotel Cambutal
I hope that one day we can return to Hotel Cambutal. When their season is in full bloom, and sustainable tourism and gentle waves are bustling. The community here is very, very special, and if you find your way into this little slice of paradise one day, too, you’ll find a lifestyle and culture that is rarely found anywhere on earth. Visit it when you get the chance. Until then, Cambutal will continue to quietly exist, in its world of nature, solitude, and simple, quiet bliss. F LEARN MORE about Hotel Cambutal and
the surrounding area by visiting
www.hotelplayacambutal.net
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South African Dreams a photo feature by
Greg Chapman
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Gina Smith
a photo feature by
South Africa’s
Greg Chapman
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a photo feature by
South Africa’s
Greg Chapman
Lakey Peterson
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a photo feature by
South Africa’s
Greg Chapman
“I am a surf photographer from Cape Town, South Africa. I do not surf. I started shooting around 2000, and my early shooting experiences were more about capturing my friends enjoying the fun waves by my house than anything else. In 2006 I got more serious about my photography and started to get work published. Then, in 2008, I made the switch to digital. After awhile, I felt it was time for another challenge, so in 2012 I decided to try my hand at water photography. Besides the ice cold water in Cape Town, I enjoy shooting from the water as one connects more
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” with the particular surfer, and its awesome to be part of the action and stoke that comes with riding waves. I enjoy shooting anyone who is passionate about surfing, likes to have fun and is committed to getting the shot. And just like surfing, shooting surfing is just so much fun. It’s a blessing to be able to capture moments that keep the stoke going.”
Greg Chapman @chappypix
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a photo feature by
South Africa’s
Greg Chapman 188 | womenssurfstyle.com | wSSm
Caroline Marks wSSm | womenssurfstyle.com | 189