LBizMarketIntelligence_251125

Leatherbiz Market Intelligence executive summary:

• A possible Ukraine peace deal could briefly lift consumer confidence

• Long-term stability remains uncertain

• Tanneries in Europe are struggling to recruit skilled staff and to attract younger people into the industry

• Bovine hides remain oversupplied, with more material now being diverted to collagen production

• Beyond weak demand, the lack of creativity in identifying new applications for leather as a highly successful and versatile material exacerbates the situation

• Meaningful progress will require joint initiatives, with leather users and tanneries working together.

MARKET INTELLIGENCE

Proposals for a potential peace agreement in Ukraine are attracting much attention. Any form of peace agreement, regardless of how painful the concessions might be, would initially generate a positive impulse for overall consumer sentiment in Europe. But how long any peace agreement might last remains to be seen. The biggest challenge will likely be restoring some level of mutual trust between all parties.

The war continues to weigh heavily on the consumption of leathergoods, and therefore a peace agreement could initially generate a noteworthy positive impulse for our industry. Reconstruction and a return to normal life in Ukraine would send a strong signal, and the lifting of sanctions against Russia would likely provide substantial momentum for the leather industry. However, it remains unclear who would ultimately benefit most and what the share of the European leather industry would be.

When looking at the current day-to-day realities, it is difficult to identify major changes in the market situation along the leather supply chain. Within the industry, the most notable event was the announcement that a well-known tanner in Austria will soon cease production at its site there. This will not surprise regular readers, yet it still carries emotional weight when a long-established and once successful tannery voluntarily decides to close a location. Official and detailed information is still missing, but the measures for closure have already been initiated and are no longer a secret. The decision may have been easier for the owners because viable perspectives for employees and the property have apparently emerged, making the economic decision more straightforward. Nonetheless, the conclusion

remains that closing the site was assessed as offering a better long-term outlook than continuing production.

When considering this decision as an example, it becomes clear that the long-term outlook is shaped not only by the current challenges in leather demand but also by other factors that forward-looking entrepreneurs must consider. Increasingly, arguments are emerging that go beyond the immediate European market situation. General conditions must also be taken into account: bureaucracy, energy costs, additional regulatory requirements, and the continuous migration of customers to other regions. In addition, many tanneries report difficulties in attracting qualified staff for technical and administrative roles.

It may be argued that some companies have not sufficiently prepared for this, but it is also true that it becomes more difficult each year to attract young talent to a career in a tannery. Training is also becoming increasingly challenging. The profession of tanner or leather technician requires the acquisition of varied hands-on experiences across many processes. The growing industrial structure makes gaining such experience more difficult, and many processes are increasingly handled by chemical and machinery suppliers. The underlying craftsmanship and creative aspects of leather production are often overshadowed by process optimisation and automation. Furthermore, the availability of chemicals and machinery could also become a critical bottleneck in Europe, with many ideas failing simply because desired essential components are not reliably accessible.

This had long been an advantage of the Italian tanning districts, but according to young professionals from the region, opportunities are increasingly limited even there. True craftsmanship is now mostly

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25 2025

practiced only in small or micro enterprises. On a broader level, the situation regarding the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) cannot be overlooked. The European Parliament will soon have to decide whether to implement the regulation in its current form on January 1, 2026, or to postpone it by at least one year. It is difficult to imagine that the EUDR, in its present scope, is implementable for all products. Some member states’ belief that this is feasible remains puzzling. The discussion is no longer about substantive issues, which have been neglected for nearly a decade, but instead about principles, ideology and the political risk of losing face. For many small and medium-sized tanneries, the extensive documentation and verification requirements could lead to significant cost burdens and administrative overload like we saw already with voluntary certifications.

The Supply Chain Act also plays a role, as it highlights how the global balance of power has shifted. Europe’s preferences and expectations are increasingly disregarded by many trade partners. Insisting on strict European-only standards can have farreaching consequences, including in areas such as energy supply, where many producing countries no longer feel compelled to adapt to European expectations. Without a significant degree of pragmatism, stabilising Europe’s economic development will be difficult in the coming years. The problems in the leather pipeline might be an indicator of this.

Many discussions continue to revolve around the future development of raw materials markets, with a particular focus on the bovine hide market. While slaughterhouses aim to stabilise and maintain the value of their by-products, many leather users question how long the current oversupply can be ignored. The idea that tanneries should receive hides for free as waste material is just as unrealistic as the assumption by meat producers that the situation is merely temporary. With declining leather demand, significant stock levels have accumulated at various stages of the supply chain, and many of these inventories cannot find buyers, even at minimal prices. Beyond weak demand, the lack of creativity in identifying new applications for leather as a highly successful and versatile material exacerbates the situation. Meaningful progress will require joint initiatives from leather users and tanneries.

One factor that has influenced the market more recently is the increasing use of bovine hides for protein production. What used to be

limited to splits and trimmings now involves a substantial share of raw hides. This development is driven largely by growing demand for collagen, gelatine and hydrolysates in the food, cosmetics, and nutritional supplement industries. Leather production no longer needs to be an intermediate step; direct processing routes are increasingly being used, sometimes involving shared infrastructure with tanneries. As a result, this sector has effectively set a floor under hide prices, preventing hides from becoming pure waste products.

In some regions, adjustments have already been made, as the flow of hides from slaughterhouses must be rethought and reorganised under these new conditions. It remains uncertain whether these changes will become permanent or whether the market will revert to old patterns. However, current information suggests that a return to prior structures is unlikely. This means that certain players in the chain must reconsider their role

and positioning. A permanent diversion of part of Europe’s bovine hides into the protein sector would require structural changes to raw material flows, changes that are already normal practice in some other regions.

The market for splits remains somewhat inconsistent globally. In Europe, the market is very stable, driven by reduced leather production. Elsewhere, minor fluctuations occur, but nothing exceptional has been observed. The market is also shaped by the upcoming holiday-related pauses in production and shipping.

Sheep and lambskins have seen a certain liveliness for some time. While this has not led to significant price increases, growing interest, particularly in the Middle East and China, is evident. Prices for many types still do not cover collection and processing costs, which has led to lower raw material volumes entering the supply chain in the past. However, most surplus inventories have now been cleared, meaning processors can no

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longer acquire unrestricted quantities at any price. The market for coarser wools has also gradually recovered in recent years, and in many cases, wool revenue alone can now cover the cost of the accompanying skin. Demand for high-quality, specialty skins remains solid and can be observed in price movements. Furthermore, a consumer trend toward natural, durable materials in the home and fashion segments is providing structural support for these products. It is still too early to speak of a complete trend change, but the sense of hopelessness that has persisted for years seems to be easing.

The outlook for the remainder of the year will be strongly influenced by the further development of the war between Russia and Ukraine and the likelihood of any peace agreement holding. Beyond that, there are few signs of meaningful impulses for the leather supply chain. It is unlikely that leather manufacturers will place significant orders before the end of the year, and the same is expected for Chinese manufacturers in January. A possible exception could be a backlog of orders caused by regulatory uncertainty around EUDR, but this scenario appears unlikely. Additional uncertainties remain regarding energy prices, financing costs and exchange rate developments, particularly for the euro and the US dollar, which could affect the competitiveness of European leather producers, especially in the automotive and luxury sectors.

Closer attention will also be required for potential entrepreneurial decisions along the supply chain, starting with meat production and extending all the way to retail. For now, however, even small pieces of positive news are welcome.

US PERSPECTIVE

Detailed

figures for export sales of cattle hides are still unavailable because the US government website that publishes the information has not been updated because of the government shutdown there.

There are updates on some hide prices. The most recent showed branded Colorado steers of 66-68 pounds at $13 per piece, down from $14.50 earlier in the month. Heavy Texas steers weighing 60-62 pounds were also $13 per piece.

Cow hide prices stayed the same with northern dairy cows at $10.50 and south-west dairy cows at $10. Northern branded cows were down to $4 and south-west branded cows reduced to $3.50, with weights of 50-52 pounds in each case.

The source of all these figures is the US Department of Agriculture. Please note that the prices quoted represent ‘ballpark’ figures.

Cattle markets USA

Late week the rout in cash prices for fed cattle continued. Cattle owners on Wednesday accepted dressed bids of $345, which was $5 lower, then reached $340, or $10 lower. Live trades were reported in the north at $218, which was $7 lower,

Actual Slaughter Under Federal Inspection

further to $215 late last week. Sales in the south ranged from $222-$224.

More immediate concerns are the announcement from Tyson that it will close its beef processing plant in Lexington, Nebraska, attacks from the administration on beef prices, and coping with the sharp readjustment in prices.

Box prices were higher to close the week, narrowing the choice-select spread. The supply of beef is being carefully managed by the processors. More emphasis is expected on the middle meats as we move towards the holidays.

Feeder futures have made a large adjustment downward in price, but now the downward direction is taking a toll on all levels of replacement cattle. Many heavier replacement cattle were the first to follow the market downward, but now all classes are heading lower and some at a rapid pace.

Corn prices moved sideways. This year’s crop remains well above the 14.5 billion bushel crop of last year and the small drop in estimated yield will maintain adequate supply-use ratios. The next USDA reports will provide more definition to this year’s crop. Elevators are holding the basis flat. Corn basis levels in Guymon, Oklahoma, are at $0.60, basis the December contract.

GERMAN PERSPECTIVE

This week: We must continue to bid farewell to old habits and certainties. Normally, this time of year is marked by the highest slaughter volumes and the highest production levels in the leather industry. If nothing else, companies try to finish and ship as much as possible before the Christmas break. This phase usually ended in the last week before Christmas, and depending on order volumes and internal planning, businesses went on holiday for one or sometimes even two weeks. This year looks somewhat different.

Slaughter numbers are significantly lower than what one would expect for the second half of November, and production in tanneries is dragging along rather than showing any indication of a seasonal peak. The reasons for this are well known, at least within the leather industry. In no part of Europe can we speak of anything resembling normal leather demand for this time of year. Therefore, companies are trying to adapt as best as they can to the circumstances, which is not easy, given the minimum volume required in any production facility.

The problem that results from this is familiar to anyone who runs a business.

However, its effects often become visible only after a long delay. This means that Europe currently finds itself in an industrial ‘noman’s-land’. No meaningful discussion is taking place along the supply chain either, as the meat industry is also struggling with similar challenges, albeit in a different way.

Commercially, most decisions for this year have been made, and only a few tanneries still need to cover demand until mid-January 2026. In Asia, the Chinese New Year (February 17) is already casting its shadow, as Europe

will be sending out its last shipments before that holiday in the coming weeks. The next possible shipments will likely not take place until late December at the earliest, and realistically probably in January.

This leads us to the next issue awaiting final resolution: the European deforestation regulation. It has been repeatedly revised, and a final decision will be made this week in the European Parliament. Whatever efforts were made in Brussels to save the project, it can only be described as a resounding failure. It borders on absurdity, for which arguments are still being put forward in an attempt to find a political solution. Anything other than a one-year postponement and a full, realistic revision of the regulation would not only be a waste of time, but further proof that Brussels operates in a bubble far removed from reality.

Then there is the trading activity that everyone looks at each week. Last week, there was little to observe. In Europe, the last

LATEST HIDE AND SKIN PRICES FROM GERMANY

outstanding contracts for deliveries for the rest of 2025 were being finalised, and in Asia, there seemed to be little interest in additional purchases. It appears they have several weeks before new demand emerges for arrival toward the end of February. As a result, prices remained largely unchanged, supported by almost stable purchase prices at the slaughterhouses. Whether this will ultimately help the situation remains questionable.

The kill: As described above, slaughter numbers are somewhat elevated, but nowhere near the peak levels expected for this time of year. Although temperatures have dropped significantly, this has not been reflected in the prices for live cattle. The retail sector reports that current beef prices are not meeting much consumer demand. Hopes now rest on a more active Christmas season. Normally, colder nights would bring more live cattle to the market, but if beef cannot be sold at current prices, there is little incentive to produce more. Farmers and slaughterhouses appear to be placing their bets on the future, assuming global demand for animal protein will continue to rise while supply in some regions remains limited — implying prices should remain stable.

What we expect: There is little indication that anything substantial will change in the coming weeks. The industry will first look to the European Parliament’s decision on the EUDR, though even that is unlikely to alter leather demand meaningfully, and may be instead trigger postponed or delayed decisions. With price movements also minimal in other international markets, it seems likely that we will be waiting some time for the next trigger for market change.

LONG READ

Leather and the Circular Economy: Thought Leadership

Natural attraction

Leather industry representatives are working increasingly closely with their counterparts in sectors such as wool, silk, cotton and cashmere. A united voice from suppliers of different natural fibres stands a better chance of being heard at important events like the United Nations COP conferences on climate change.

The 2025 United Nations Climate Change Conference, COP30, is upon us. It starts on November 10 and runs until November 21, with the Brazilian city of Belém as the venue. COP stands for Conference of the Parties. The ‘parties’ are the 198 states and organisations that have signed up to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). The Belém gathering will be the thirtieth time they have met to discuss policies and ideas that can mitigate the effects of climate change.

The leather industry has consistently sought to be part of this effort. When COP26 took place in Glasgow in 2021, the industry published the first ‘Leather Manifesto’. This document celebrates the circular-economy credentials of leather, especially its durability, repairability and lasting beauty, which foments long use of the finished products that are made from leather. Good examples of this include handbags that frequently pass from one generation to the next.

Leather-sector organisations from all parts of the world put their names to the original manifesto and did so again when the industry relaunched it for COP29, which took place in Baku, Azerbaijan, in 2024. Now, a total of 20 organisations have signed a newly updated version for Belém.

In the 2025 version, signatories have explained: “As we see every year with the COP negotiations, resolving differences of opinion on how best to protect the planet and people is a huge challenge. A significant factor is the often opposing views of the negotiating parties and their presentation of evidence to support their views. Sustainability debates are skewed by narratives and numbers that obscure reality.”

The text adds that “this obfuscation” has also blighted perceptions of leather. “Leather, durable, repairable, and deeply woven into our cultural identity, is one of humanity’s oldest materials,” it continues. “For millennia it has clothed, sheltered, and protected us.” But in today’s sustainability discourse, the text says, leather is largely misunderstood, sometimes vilified, often mis-measured, and rarely recognised for what it truly is: a renewable, circular by-product of livestock farming. Relaunching the document just before the start of the Belém gathering is an attempt to correct this imbalance and to

position leather as a positive, renewable biomaterial within a circular economy.

More impact

The intention for 2025 was to do even more at COP30 in Brazil. With the host nation being one of the biggest leather-producing countries in the world, there was hope among the main proponents of the manifesto that Belém would provide a platform for making the case for leather in an even more impactful way.

After attending the 2024 event in Baku, the secretary of the International Council of Tanners (ICT), Dr Kerry Senior, said the leather industry should work hard to make its presence felt at this year’s gathering in Brazil. “We need to be there to make the case for natural, long-lasting, climate-positive materials,” he said.

A veteran of several COPs now, Dr Senior has long argued that the big opportunity these events offer is unparalleled access to policy-makers and to journalists who, day in,

day out, cover climate change. He has described these encounters as a chance to reach “really relevant people with the truth about leather and to answer their questions face to face”. He has campaigned for partner organisations across the global leather industry to help fund a united presence at COP to make sure plenty of knowledgeable industry experts are on hand to answer as many of those questions as possible.

Slow progress

This vision will not become reality at COP30. Kerry Senior applied for official representative status for ICT at the event well over a year in advance. It took until summer 2025 for the UNFCCC secretariat to reply. By that time, organisers of the Belém event were under considerable pressure to have everything ready on time.

Even by mid-October, with only a few weeks to go before the start, there was still plenty of work to do on accommodation

(including at the ‘Leaders’ Village’, where visiting heads of state will stay, plus so-called ‘floating hotels’ to make up for a lack of rooms for ordinary delegates in the city and the surrounding area), transportation (including at Belém airport), and other projects.

The United Nations liked the idea of holding a COP event in Belém because the city’s nickname is ‘The Gateway to the Amazon’. This busy port is actually on the Pará River, but the Pará is part of the greater Amazon River system. The federal Brazilian government, the government of the state of Pará and the city authorities have consistently assured the world that they will have everything in place when COP30 kicks off.

Next time

These pressures were enough for the secretariat to say in the summer that it was unable to process any outstanding applications for official representative status. “We can tick all the boxes,” Dr Senior insists, “but the secretariat has had to move slowly

for Belém and we are not going to be there. Instead, we will focus on having everything ready for next time.”

There is still discussion about where the next COP will be after Belém, but the latest indications are that Turkey and Australia are both in the running and could even share the honour of hosting the event. Fittingly, then, if the hosting is shared, what ICT wants is to be part of a shared delegation with other industry bodies that promote natural fibres. This will mean representing leather, wool, cotton, silk, cashmere and others together.

Big enough

“We will have something really impressive to talk about,” the ICT secretary says, “but we will have to go as ‘natural materials’ to be big enough to attract delegates’ attention. We will have ministers, civil servants and nongovernment organisations all in that space together. They will be there to talk about emissions and climate change. We will be able to arrange meetings with them. National

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associations will be able to talk to their countries’ ministers. We will be able to do all of this at scale.”

He adds that, at COP, people go into conversations with one conviction at the forefront of their minds: that global action is necessary. “The discussions are all with a view to formulating policy,” he concludes. “That’s why this is a unique opportunity. Even if it won’t happen for us this year, we know it is an opportunity that will come back.”

Rome encounters

A collective approach involving other natural materials seems to have become a consistent theme in the autumn of 2025. Dr Senior was part of a leather industry delegation that attended a series of events that the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), also part of the United Nations, organised in Rome at the end of September and start of October. The FAO’s theme was sustainable livestock transformation. There were high-level encounters with the FAO leadership team, as well as with some of the other organisations that face the challenge of convincing brands that natural materials are best.

Secretary-general of European leather industry representative body COTANCE, Gustavo González-Quijano, spoke at the Rome event. He talked to the audience about traceability in the leather supply chain and about leather’s links to sustainable livestock management.

Where all roads lead

As if to give an early signal of the joint efforts that lie ahead at future United Nations events, Dr Paul Swan of the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) also spoke in Rome. The IWTO is the global authority for standards in the wool industry. He presented wool as having “a long wear-life” and as one of the materials most likely to be reused and recycled. But he pointed out that wool is also rated poorly in “high-profile environmental ratings platforms for textiles”. He puts this down to weaknesses in the carbon accounting assumptions of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), yet another United Nations body.

These assumptions, Dr Swan argues, do not accurately reflect “biological reality”. They fail to distinguish between fossil carbon and biogenic carbon. Our consumption of fossil fuels puts into the atmosphere carbon that had been stored for millions of years. With biogenic carbon, living organisms, including sheep, absorb carbon from the plants they eat and return a high proportion of it to nature for it to be reabsorbed. He contends that this makes an enormous difference to carbon emissions calculations for wool and the IWTO is currently carrying out field studies in New Zealand, South Africa, the UK and Australia to prove its point.

If you see parallels here with cattle and leather, Dr Swan does too. “The same rules, the same accounting issues affect leather,” he says. “They affect any product that is based

on a photosynthetic system.”

IWTO secretary general, Dalena White, points out that clothing and textile production doubled in the first 15 years of this century, but that 60% of the fibres brands choose and manufacturers use now are fossil-fuel based. Ms White is also co-spokesperson for Make The Label Count, a coalition of more than 70 organisations representing natural fibre industries globally. IWTO and the International Council of Tanners are both members of this coalition.

Make The Label Count is campaigning for fair, science-based legislation that recognises the environmental benefits of natural fibres in the circular economy. “Natural fibre production involves capturing carbon from the atmosphere through photosynthesis,” Dalena White explains. “This is a critical environmental function and current methodologies fail to recognise it.” Limitations in current LCA methodologies inadvertently steer brands away from natural fibres towards fossil fuel-based alternatives, Make The Label Count contends.

This brings us back to COP. It is the IPCC that provides the scientific basis for many of the climate-change policy discussions that take place at the COP meetings. What the IPCC says is the accepted wisdom, but also a contributing factor to the “obfuscation” that the newest version of the Leather Manifesto alludes to. What happened in Rome in the autumn of 2025 must have given COTANCE, the IWTO, the ICT and others a foretaste of how they can change this if they unite and speak with one voice at future COP events. All roads used to lead to Rome. Now, perhaps, they lead to COP.

Note: This article first appeared in World Leather October-November 2025, just as COP30 was starting.

NEWS

EUROPE

EU countries back one-year pause on

EUDR

EU member states have agreed to extend the implementation pause on the EU deforestation regulation (EUDR) by one year and include a clause allowing the legislation to be reopened for further changes by April 2026.

The EUDR bans the sale of products linked to deforestation, including cocoa, coffee, livestock, palm oil, rubber, and wood, on the EU market. The Council’s agreement follows a German proposal circulated last week and a Danish alternative, with Belgium, the Netherlands, and Spain opposing the move, according to diplomatic sources. France supported the German position despite previously raising concerns.

A key change introduces a simplification review requiring the European Commission to report on the regulation by 30 April 2026, potentially accompanied by a legislative proposal. Under the new text, only operators

placing products on the EU market will need to submit due diligence statements, while downstream companies must retain and pass on the reference number of the original statement.

The European Parliament and Council must finalise the agreement by 15 December. Parliament lead negotiator Christine Schneider (EPP) has proposed a two-year delay, though amendments may be adjusted to align with the Council position.

Tariff pressures shape first half results and strategy for Dr Martens

DrMartens has reported first half revenue of £322 million ($421.7 million), broadly unchanged year on year.

Higher US import tariffs added £2.7 million ($3.53 million) in costs, with a larger impact expected across the full year, but the company says it will fully mitigate these pressures from FY27 through sourcing flexibility, cost control, and selective pricing in the US.

QUAKER COLOR A STEP AHEAD IN AUTOMOTIVE FINISHING

Gross margin improved and losses narrowed, helped by stronger full price sales and disciplined cost management. Shoe volumes rose 33 percent, and the Americas delivered the strongest growth across regions.

The company describes wholesale order books for spring and summer 2026 as healthier than last year and says it remains comfortable with full year expectations before tariffs are taken into account.

Staffordshire graduate scoops Furniture Makers’ Leather Prize University of Staffordshire graduate Grace Mansell has been awarded the Furniture Makers’ Leather Prize 2025, sponsored by the Leathersellers, for a collection called Stitch.

Sponsorship covers expenses for the London-based Furniture Makers’ Exhibition, which connects designer-makers with potential employers, and pays for a trip to the Scottish Leather Group.

Grace told the Leathersellers that her project explores the idea that materials can

hold a memory.

She said: “A piece of leather, over time, takes on the imprint of its use, every mark adds character and adds to the piece’s story. I was curious about how a piece of furniture can spark memories or conversation, how its materials, forms or craftsmanship might invite reflection.

“Through sustainable sourcing, including traceable leather with a low carbon footprint, the piece also addresses the environmental challenges of modern furniture-making, without sacrificing beauty or durability.”

Innovation theme set for Lineapelle 107

Lineapelle will hold its 107th edition from February 11 to 13 2026 at Fiera Milano Rho. Organisers said the fair will place greater emphasis on creative development and clear stylistic guidance at a time when the global market remains uncertain.

The concept for this edition, The Unbound, uses the image of a purple apple to signal a push towards new ideas. Lineapelle said the

aim is to provide a space for experimentation and forward looking thinking as trading conditions continue to contract.

The Lineapelle Fashion Committee has framed the summer trends under the title Overview Effect, describing them as an invitation to adopt new perspectives. The focus is on unfamiliar colour ranges, natural and authentic materials, and a stronger sensory dimension.

The third edition of Lineapelle Interiors will showcase 24 collaborations between companies and designers, promoting links between the fashion supply chain and the design economy. Organisers said the project highlights the Made in Italy approach and supports new development pathways for leather and textiles.

Lineapelle will also present the second phase of its AiMateriality project with open innovation company Limitless, a partner in the Ingenium platform for emerging technologies and artificial intelligence. The initiative aims to strengthen digital culture and collaboration across the supply chain.

Italian tanners share best practice at trade fairs

Italian tanners’ association UNIC and tanners groups from Tuscany have shared their experience of the Eco-Management Audit Scheme (EMAS) and best practice around environmental strategies at the Rimini-based Ecomondo fair (November 4-7).

EMAS is a tool created by the European Community to encourage sustainable development. In Italy, it is promoted by the Ministry of the Environment and has been awarded to the Tuscan tanning district since 2010.

Enrico Cancila, president of the EMAS section of the Ecolabel Eco-audit Committee at the Ministry of the Environment, has travelled to trade fairs to promote the tanners’ achievements.

He said: “The sharing of best practices encourages the entire local community to be environmentally responsible.”

Fabio Iraldo, who oversees scientific work related to EMAS, highlighted the Tuscan district's foresight in adopting this certification in 2010, thanks to the commitment of trade associations.

The only two Italian industrial districts certified by EMAS are the Tuscan tanning district and the Ravenna chemical district. Representatives of the two are planning to collaborate to promote EMAS further.

Johnny Coca departs Louis Vuitton leather goods team

Louis Vuitton has confirmed the departure of accessories specialist Johnny Coca after five and a half years overseeing womenswear, leather goods and accessories, as reported by WWD.

The designer rejoined the brand in 2020, having started his career there in 1996. Known for influential work at Celine, Mulberry and Bally, he worked within the leather goods team led by artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière.

Coca praised his time at the house and the LVMH Group, and his next move has not yet been disclosed.

Mermaid Basket highlights artistic use of Gruppo Mastrotto leather

Asculptural piece made from red leather supplied by Gruppo Mastrotto has been shown in Paris as part of an exhibition on experimental fashion.

Designer Seraffa created the object, called Mermaid Basket, from a single piece taken from the company’s readymade archive. The leather was folded into shape without cuts or prior drawings, producing curved lines that reference both natural growth patterns and twentieth century art.

The work appeared in the Burning Desire exhibition at Maison Lafirynda, a space that presents emerging approaches to design and material culture. It also reflects the activity of Readymade, the Milan practice involved in curating and reworking manufacturers’ surplus materials through a mix of research and craft.

President and CEO Chiara Mastrotto said the project shows how leather continues to move between design, fashion, and art, and how existing resources can be used to support new creative outcomes.

New appointments to management board of Leather Naturally

Leather Naturally has elected two new members to its management board following the latest voting round.

Marketing lead Jim Deheer, will take over as communications lead from Alexa Rosatti, JBS. Project manager Carla Vélez, will succeed outgoing board member Natasja Brouns, Stahl.

Mr Deheer has more than twenty years of experience in leather, luxury, and manufacturing, with previous roles at Scottish Leather Group, Leather Working Group, and One 4 Leather. His work focuses on sustainability, certification, and clear communication across the value chain.

Ms Vélez works across design, education, and sustainable innovation. At Leather Cluster Barcelona, she manages European projects that link creative disciplines with the leather sector, while also teaching at La Gaspar School of Art and Design.

Both will serve an initial three year term. Leather Naturally thanked Ms Rosatti and Ms Brouns for their contribution during their time on the board.

Metaskills4TCLF partners put theories to the test

Partners of the EU-funded Metaskills4TCLF project, which seeks to equip teachers and trainers with the skills needed to address challenges in the TCLF sectors (Textiles, Clothing, Leather, and Footwear), began to test the co-developed tools during a three-day event in Pirmasens, Germany, hosted by footwear research institute PFI.

The workshop brought together 27 participants from 14 partner organisations in eight countries, following previous meetings to address the skills gaps and how to address these.

All partners contributed to the development of the materials, and engaged in collaborative and creative exercises, from Design Thinking toolkit exploration to storytelling-based curricula development, bringing theory into practice.

The journey continues in January in Igualada, Spain, where the next workshop will build on the insights from Pirmasens.

Partners include tanners’ association COTANCE, Portuguese footwear association APICCAPS, the European Footwear Confederation (CEC) and the Leather Cluster Barcelona.

Illuminations of Guadamecí Art open now in Córdoba

An exhibition of Guadamecí leatherwork by international specialist Jorge Centofanti is currently on show at the Palacio de Congresos in Córdoba.

The exhibition, titled Iluminaciones del Arte Guadamecí, brings together 60 exclusive pieces of moulded, tooled, engraved, and gilded leather. It is the first time these works have been shown in Spain.

Guadamecí is a long-established Córdoba tradition involving the decoration of leather with gold, silver, pigments, and raised or incised designs. The technique has been maintained for centuries by regional workshops and by a small number of dedicated practitioners.

Mr Centofanti noted the strong local context for the craft, explaining to Leatherbiz that Córdoba remains an important centre for Guadamecí since it was introduced to the city during the period of the Umayyads. He added that there are many artists working in different styles and said that this concentration of activity creates an encouraging environment for the craft.

The Palacio de Congresos on Calle Torrijos is hosting the exhibition from November 3 to 28.

Clarks expands digitally and physically

British

footwear brand Clarks is expanding its digital presence with launches on digital marketplaces around the world, including Shein, Walmart, Target, Secret Sales and TikTok Shop.

This expansion follows the brand’s September announcement of its first owned digital marketplace in the UK, set to launch in early 2026 on clarks.com. The new platform will host multiple brands alongside Clarks, offering customers greater choice and convenience.

In the UK, Clarks has recently gone live on Shein and Secret Sales, and across Europe, the brand will expand onto Secret Sales Netherlands and Dress for Less before the end of the year.

Joe Ulloa, president of Clarks UK, ROI & Europe, said: “Expanding into new digital spaces helps us meet customers where they are. We’re making Clarks even more accessible while continuing to offer fantastic products at

makes it natural

great prices.”

In the Americas, Clarks continues build momentum. Established on eBay for five years, Clarks has recently expanded to Shop Simon, Shein and Walmart, with Target joining the line up in December.

It has also opened stores in Malaysia and the US, with global expansion planned for 2026.

Leather brands highlighted at Walpole British Luxury Awards

Leather and leathergoods companies featured strongly at the Walpole British Luxury Awards, held at The Dorchester in London on November 10.

The event, which celebrates the contribution of British luxury to the national economy, recognised both circular innovation and traditional craftsmanship within the sector.

Elvis & Kresse received the Sustainable Luxury Brand of the Year award. The company

repurposes decommissioned fire hoses and leather off-cuts into bags, belts and small accessories. Walpole noted its circular production model, which has diverted more than 315 tonnes of waste from landfill and generated significant charitable donations. The organisation described the brand as a clear example of purpose driven luxury within the UK market.

Heritage maker The House of Swaine was recognised with the Made in the UK award. The company has crafted hats, umbrellas and leathergoods in its London and Leicestershire workshops since 1750, and Walpole said the award reflected its continued investment in handmaking skills and long term manufacturing capability.

The awards underlined the role of specialist leather producers in the wider British luxury industry, a sector that Walpole values at 81 billion pounds. According to the organisation, the performance of brands such as Elvis & Kresse and Swaine shows how craftsmanship,

material knowledge and sustainable production models remain central to the strength of UK luxury goods.

Stahl withdraws from sale and launches wet-end spin-off Muno Stahl has confirmed that it will proceed with the full separation of its wet-end leather chemicals division, which will become an independent company under the new brand name Muno. The decision follows the joint withdrawal by Stahl and Syntagma Capital from the acquisition agreement announced in 2024.

The divestment plan was originally communicated on November 18, 2024, as part of Stahl’s strategy to concentrate on speciality coatings and finishes. While an agreement had been in place with Syntagma Capital, weaker market conditions reduced the performance of the wet-end business and made the terms of the deal less favourable for Stahl, enabling both sides to step away from the transaction.

Stahl will now complete the carve-out itself. The new company, Muno, will be led by chief executive officer Xavier Rafols and will continue supplying wet-end solutions to leather manufacturers worldwide. Once the carve-out is finalised, the two businesses will operate independently.

The move supports Stahl’s long term plan to strengthen its position in speciality coatings for flexible materials. Although the company began in 1930 as a leather finishing specialist, it has shifted its focus in recent years toward performance coatings and packaging coatings. The creation of Muno is intended to give Stahl a clearer strategic path in these growth areas.

Chief executive officer Maarten Heijbroek said the carve-out is expected to be completed within the coming months and thanked the teams involved for their work during the transition.

Steady performance for French hide and leather exports

Figures for the first nine months of this year show that France exported raw hides and skins with a value of € 150.1 million. This is down by 2% compared to the same period last year.

Breaking this down, exports of bovine hides, the biggest category, had a value of €91.7 million, which was very slightly up on the previous year’s total.

Exports of calfskins continued to fall in value, reaching € 27.8 million between January and September this year, a decline of 17%.

Shipments of sheepskins continued to increase in value, reaching €11.4 million, an increase of 21%.

Exotic skins also showed a small increase, up by 1% to reach €17.6 million.

Exports of leather over the same period had a value of € 160.1 million, down by 1% compared to the first nine months of 2024.

Semi-finished hides and skins contributed €15.6 million to this total, a fall of 26%. But

exports of finished leather rose in value by 2% year on year, reaching €144.5 million.

The figures come from Alliance France Cuir’s most recent analysis of the sector’s performance.

Long-standing UK leather supplier ceases operations

The UK leather merchant Metropolitan Leather Company has announced its immediate closure.

The company posted a notice on its website and Facebook page stating: “It is with great sadness and a heavy heart that we announce the immediate closure of Metropolitan Leather. We are deeply grateful to all our customers for their loyal support over the years,” adding that its current range of leathers will continue to be available through other suppliers.

Metropolitan Leather, which celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2019, had long served the UK leather-finishing and supply-chain community, building a strong reputation among industry customers.

COTANCE calls for public procurement boost for leather Leather industry

representative body

COTANCE has confirmed that it made a formal feedback submission to the European Commission about its upcoming Circular Economy Act. The deadline for submitting evidence as part of a public consultation was November 6.

According to the Commission, the Circular Economy Act will to accelerate the transition to a more circular economy. It will it aim to establish a single European Union market for secondary raw materials, increase the supply of high-quality recycled materials and stimulate demand for these materials in the EU.

It is due for adoption in 2026.

In its submission, COTANCE said leather is “often overlooked or misrepresented” in policy frameworks. It said the Circular Economy Act presented “an opportunity to correct this” and to ensure that natural materials, including leather, are “fairly evaluated and supported”.

Actions it recommended as the Commission completes its work on the new act included recognition of animal by-products as part of the circular economy and promote their use.

It also said the Circular Economy Act should support moves to have leather authenticity labelling across the EU to make sure consumers can easily identify the materials in the products they are buying.

A third COTANCE recommendation is that the act should promote the inclusion of leather in specifications for sustainable public procurement projects.

Finally, it said leather research projects should have access to the funding that will become available under a new EU research framework.

“Leather is a valuable and sustainable contributor to the EU’s circular economy,” the submission concluded.

Half-year results show 5% fall for Burberry, but CEO sees signs of hope

Leathergoods brand Burberry has reported revenues of just over £1 billion for the first six months of its current financial year, the period ending September 27.

This represents a fall of 5% compared to the same period a year earlier.

Revenues from accessories fell by 7% year on year to reach £343 million. It was still the company’s biggest category. Burberry said the performance of its leathergoods category improved in the second quarter, but “remained challenging overall”.

At the end of the six-month period, Burberry had 225 directly operated stores. Of these, 97 are in China, 29 in the rest of Asia, 56 in the Americas and 43 in Europe.

Chief executive, Joshua Schulman, explained that the company was one year into a restructuring programme he has called Burberry Forward. He said his belief in this “extraordinary British luxury house” was stronger than ever.

“We have begun to see customers return to the brand they love,” he said, “resulting in comparable store sales growth for the first time in two years. While there is more to do, we now have proof that Burberry Forward is the right strategic path to restore brand relevance and value creation.”

ECOFAP project turns leather waste into 3D-printed footwear components

Spain’s footwear sector is exploring circular economy solutions to cut waste and reduce environmental impact. The ECOFAP project transforms tanned leather scraps from cutting and assembly into fine particles for 3D printing filaments used in soles and heels.

Led by AIMPLAS with Evatalking, Pikolinos, and the Centro Tecnológico del Calzado de La Rioja, the initiative combines waste valorisation with additive manufacturing. The materials are suitable for luxury, sports, orthopaedic, and sustainable footwear, enabling lighter, optimised components while reducing reliance on virgin polymers.

Paula Maestro, engineering researcher at AIMPLAS, said, “Leather scraps are transformed into functional components, turning waste into soles and heels.”

EUDR could be delayed again under new proposal

European

Union governments are pressing to postpone the bloc's anti-deforestation law by another year, according to news agency Reuters.

A negotiating draft dated November 10 proposes moving the law’s start date to December 30, 2026 for large companies and June 30, 2027 for smaller ones. The document, seen by Reuters, follows the European Commission’s recent attempt to ease compliance for smaller operators — but many member states said this did not go far enough.

The law bans imports of commodities such as cocoa, palm oil, beef, coffee, soy and

rubber linked to forest destruction, forming a key part of the EU’s Green Deal. Initially due to take effect at the end of 2024, it was already pushed back once and remains controversial. Poland, Austria and others argue that the traceability rules are too complex for European producers to meet.

Environmental campaigners say another delay would damage EU credibility and slow progress on traceability. Antonie Fountain, head of the VOICE Network, called the timing “ironic” given that the UN climate talks are taking place this week in Brazil. Nicole Polsterer from Fern warned the move would stall the progress some producing countries have already made.

Major food companies including Nestlé, Ferrero and Olam Agri continue to back the regulation, warning that another postponement risks further forest loss and undermines the EU’s broader aim of simplifying business rules.

Final negotiations between EU nations and the European Parliament are expected by mid-December. Denmark, which currently chairs the EU Council, drafted the proposal and said the goal is to reach a quick consensus before the law’s current deadline. “Most Member States don’t want the law in its present form to enter into force by the end of the year,” a Danish spokesperson told Reuters.

Livery company celebrates RLSD winner

The Worshipful Company of Curriers has congratulated De Montfort University student Jamie Unlu O’Grady on his success in this year’s Real Leather Stay Different design competition.

US industry association Leather and Hide Council of America, organiser of the competition, named Mr Unlu O’Grady as this year’s winner at the end of October.

His winning entry was a footwear design he called SubTraction.

Earlier in the process, The Worshipful Company of Curriers gave the competition winner a grant of £750 to buy leather to help him turn SubTraction from an idea into a real product.

It said it was happy to have provided early support for an idea that had already gone far, and which Jamie Unlu O’Grady hopes take even further.

The Worshipful Company of Curriers is one of several of the City of London’s ancient livery companies with ties to the leather industry. Dating back to 1272, its name comes from ‘currying’, a term for cleaning, scraping, stretching and finishing hides through oiling, waxing or colouring them after the tanning process.

Royal visit highlights English shoemaker’s export success

HRH The Princess Royal viewed a pair of her own lasts, which had been made for her in the 1990s, during a visit to Edward Green’s Northampton footwear factory.

The family-owned company employs 60

shoemakers making 200 pairs per week, with 80% exported to markets including Japan, Italy and the US.

Exports to the US have grown 45% this year.

Managing director Hilary Freeman said: “This visit recognises not only Edward Green’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship but the enduring strength of Northampton’s shoemaking heritage.”

HRH The Princess Royal is president of the UK Fashion and Textile Association.

ASIA

Pakistan debuts first traceable

leather jacket

WWF-Pakistan has presented what it says is the country’s first fully traceable leather jacket, created through the SMEP Programme’s work on digital transparency.

The prototype was shown during a workshop on digital traceability and the EU Deforestation Regulation, where participants saw how the tool records each stage in a product’s path from raw material to final article.

The pilot system allows users to review sourcing information, processing steps, production practices, and alignment with developing international rules, including the requirements set out in EUDR.

WWF-Pakistan said the aim is to offer manufacturers, exporters, and supply chain partners a practical route to more transparent operations.

According to the organisation, the tool is intended to support the sector as buyers increase their expectations around verifiable data and responsible production.

TFL opens new leather competence centre in Kanpur

T

FL has opened a leather competence centre in Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh. The facility has been redesigned and equipped with updated technical systems, including expanded testing capability and an on-site effluent treatment plant. According to the company, this arrangement is intended to support faster and more precise development work.

The centre’s location enables service coverage for customer hubs in Kanpur, Delhi, and Jalandhar. Support will cover shoe upper materials, leather goods, upholstery, and garments. The company said the site will provide technical assistance alongside its chemical range.

The opening took place on November 13. It was carried out by chief executive officer Andre Lanning and chief people officer Kaija Korolainen in the presence of business partners and customers.

APLF ASEAN debuts in Vietnam

APLF ASEAN took place on November 13 to 15, the first time the ASEAN show has made Vietnam its base; the previous two have been in Bangkok, Thailand.

Organiser APLF – which coordinates APLF

(Hong Kong), ACLE (Shanghai) and APLF ASEAN– said the location connected suppliers with footwear, bags, accessories, furniture and automotive manufacturers.

The edition was supported by the Shoes and Leather Association of Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi Leather and Footwear Association, Leather & Shoes Research Institute and the Thai Tanning Industry Association.

More than 100 exhibitors took part. Europe’s representation included Spain’s Combalia, Curtidos Lancina, Dercosa, Inpelsa, La Doma, Miret, and Scavini; Italy’s Wipelli and Conceria Tre Emme; and from France, the Federation Française des Cuirs et Peaux (FFCP), Nick Winters, Bigard, Covico, Les Cuirs de l’Ouest, SVA Jean Rozé, SOCOPA and Fortain. Other tanneries included JBS Couros (Brazil), and Alfamex and Lefarc from Mexico.

A delegation led by the Ministry of Investment, Industry and Trade of the Republic of Uzbekistan participated for the first time.

However, the Global Footwear Sustainable Supply Chain Summit (GFSS), originally scheduled for 11–12 November to coincide, was postponed.

Despite falls, China exported bags worth $20 billion from January to August

Rounding up its reports of the performance of the leather industry in China in the first eight months of this year, the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA) has given a figure of $20.6 billion for exports of bags and luggage products to overseas markets. This represents a fall of 11.5% year on year.

Between January and August, China imported bags and luggage with a value of more than $3.4 billion, also a fall of 11.5% compared to the same period last year.

CLIA put at $81.2 million the value of the country’s exports of leather garments over that timeframe. This is a reduction of 2.8% year on year.

Over the same period, traders and retail groups in China imported leather garments with a value of $73 million, which is a fall of 6.6% year on year.

Savar leather industrial park likely to come under BEPZA management

Agovernmentcommittee is set to recommend transferring the Savar Tannery Industrial Estate from the Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation (BSCIC) to the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA), aiming to restore environmental compliance and strengthen export competitiveness.

Led by Major General (Retd) Md Nazrul Islam, the panel will submit its roadmap covering regulatory, operational, legal, and financial frameworks to the Ministry of Industries within a month. BEPZA’s experience in managing central effluent treatment plants is expected to address longstanding waste management issues that have hindered Leather Working Group certification for many tanneries.

Bangladesh’s leather exports reached $1.15 billion in FY25, and industry sources believe improved environmental standards and policy coordination could help the sector achieve $5 billion annually by 2030.

Performance of

old-style leather boots impresses 2025 climbers

Identical

twins Ross and Hugo Turner carried out an unusual ascent of Mera Peak in the Himalayas in October.

They completed the climb of 6,476 metres on Nepal’s highest trekking mountain eating the same food in the same quantities at the same time, but wearing completely different footwear and apparel.

One twin, Ross Turner, had up-to-date clothing from mountaineering brand Montane and footwear from Mammut. Instead of this, though, Hugo wore replicas of the clothes and leather boots that mountaineer George Mallory wore for an expedition just over 100 years earlier.

Mallory and his climbing companion, Sandy Irvine, died during an expedition to climb Mount Everest in 1924. They were last seen alive high up the north face of the mountain. There is speculation to this day about the possibility of their having reached the summit before they went missing.

What the Turner Twins wanted to test during their 2025 expedition was the performance of historical equipment, its possible effect on decision-making under extreme environmental stress and how this compared with modern kit.

They worked with the University of Portsmouth’s Extreme Environments Laboratory, which studies the limits of human endurance in harsh conditions. Using sensorenable patches that were connected to their phones, they collected real-time physiological data, including body temperature, cognitive performance and cortisol levels, which are associated with stress.

Speaking to the BBC in early November, Ross Turner said: “We are still crunching the numbers, but we were collecting live data every five minutes from our boots, thighs, arms and chests.”

He said the George Mallory replica kit meant an average lower temperature of 2 or 3 degrees Celsius, but that initial data on the twins’ performance in 2025 showed them tracking almost identically to one another.

Hugo Turner pointed out that a difference of 2 or 3 degrees for traditionally made boots and clothes using only natural materials was impressive given the “huge amount of research and development” that has gone into the “synthetic, modern equivalent”. He pointed out, though, that he was wearing seven layers on the top half of his body and four on the bottom half.

He said it had taken two years to prepare the replica clothes and boots for the climb, first to research what Mallory wore and then finding companies to make new versions of the products.

He paid particular tribute to the work that Northampton-based footwear manufacturer Crockett & Jones carried out to replicate

Mallory’s leather boots.

The whole experience led the twins to contemplate what Ross Turner called the “epically exciting question” of whether Mallory could have got to the summit of Everest in 1924. With the level of performance that his footwear and clothing achieved, he said both brothers “agree that he probably could have”.

THE AMERICAS

Modest growth in second quarter for La-Z-Boy

Michigan-based furniture group La-Z-Boy posted second-quarter fiscal 2026 sales of $522 million, up slightly year-on-year.

Retail written sales rose 4%, wholesale sales 2%, while same-store retail sales fell 2% but showed sequential improvement. The company opened five stores and closed three, reaching 15 openings and five closures over 12 months. GAAP operating margin was 6.9%, adjusted 7.1%, with diluted EPS of $0.70 GAAP and $0.71 adjusted. Operating cash flow tripled to $50 million, and the quarterly dividend rose 10% to $0.242.

La-Z-Boy acquired a 15-store southeast US network, adding an estimated $80 million in annual Retail sales, around $40 million net. It also announced exits from non-core Kincaid and American Drew casegoods and upholstery, the UK manufacturing site, and a leadership realignment.

US beef exports show brunt of China impasse

The US Department of Agriculture (USDA) has published August red meat export data, which was delayed due to the government shutdown.

Data show beef exports were substantially lower than a year ago, impacted by an impasse with China that has effectively locked US beef out of the world’s largest import market.

August beef exports totalled 83,388 mt, down 19% from a year ago and the lowest since June 2020. Export value fell 18% to $695.5 million, the lowest since February 2021.

While exports to China plummeted, shipments were fairly steady to South Korea and trended higher than a year ago to the Caribbean and Central and South America.

From January to August, beef exports were 9.5% below last year at 775,188 mt, while value declined 9% to $6.4 billion.

Tyson withdraws net zero pledge from marketing

Tyson Foods has agreed to stop promoting plans to reach net zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050 and to withdraw climate friendly beef claims, Reuters reported, citing the Environmental Working Group. The move settles a 2024 lawsuit that said the company misled consumers, with Brazen Beef highlighted as an example of disputed marketing.

The agreement bars Tyson from making

similar claims for five years unless verified by an independent expert. The group said the outcome supports the need for accurate environmental information, while Tyson said it settled only to avoid further legal costs and denied wrongdoing. The company said it has invested more than $65 million ( € 65m) to reduce emissions linked to its beef production.

Leather industry could benefit from Nobel Prize-winning chemistry

Sarah

Drayna, regional manager for the Americas at TFL Group and newly elected member of the Leather and Hide Council of America (LHCA) executive committee, has said the innovation that won this year’s Nobel Prize in Chemistry was useful for the leather industry.

She told LHCA: “We are excited about it, as it is a chemistry that can be used in the betterment for the leather industry in various ways.”

The award went to Susumu Kitagawa, Richard Robson and Omar Yaghi who developed a new form of molecular architecture. In their constructions, metal ions function as cornerstones that are linked by long organic (carbon-based) molecules and contain cavities. These porous materials are called metal organic frameworks (MOF). Chemists can design them to capture and store specific substances and chemicals – and have a use in treating wastewater, capturing chemicals.

“As a scientist and someone who has worked in this field for 25 years, it is great to hear that the technology recognized by the Nobel Committee is something that we can use to make the leather-making process even more environmentally friendly,” she added.

Record quarter for JBS

Brazil-headquartered

tannery and food group JBS has reported record thirdquarter sales of $22.6 billion, up 13% from the same period last year.

Earnings of $1.8 billion were 15% lower than the previous year.

JBS Beef North America delivered record sales. With cattle supplies at historically low levels, cattle prices have remained high but consumption remained resilient.

Gilberto Tomazoni, group CEO, said: “JBS reported record net sales, with sales growth across all business units, underscoring the strength and diversification of its global multiprotein platform.

“Net income in the quarter was $581 million and the Return on Equity (ROE) reached 23.7%, reflecting solid results.”

Hide export volumes hold up, but values down for Brazil

New figures from Brazil’s national tanning industry representative body CICB show export revenues of hides, skins and leather of US$939.5 million for the first ten months of this year. This is a fall of 11.1% compared to the same months in 2024.

There were double-digit declines in the value of shipments to all four of Brazil’s biggest markets.

Tanners in China paid $293.3 million for the material it imported from the South American country, a fall of 17% year on year. For the US market, the figure was $125.7 million, down by 12.5%. Importers in Italy spent $104.7 million on raw material from Brazil between January and October 2025, a decline of 15% year on year.

In terms of area, CICB calculated total exports to have come down by a much smaller percentage. In total, 154.1 million square-metres of hides and skins went from Brazil to markets overseas, down by 3.7%.

In terms of weight, the figure went up. Total weight of hides and skins shipped over the ten months was close 515,000 tonnes, an increase of 5.5%.

Brazil makes renewed push for ‘sustainable’ footwear

Aprogramme developed by the Brazilian Footwear Industries Association (Abicalçados) and the Brazilian Association of Leather, Footwear and Accessories Components Companies (Assintecal) to reinforce the footwear sector’s commitment to ESG practices is being expanded through a new national campaign.

Sustainable Origin was launched in 2013 and assesses companies based on 104 indicators.

The partners said: “The campaign reveals the behind-the-scenes of this ESG journey, showing that every sustainable choice is present in details often invisible, yet making all the difference: committed management, reduction of environmental impacts, care for employees, and appreciation of surrounding communities.”

According to the Brazil Footwear Industry Report 2025, whose sample represents about 60% of national production, the share of companies consuming 100% renewable electricity rose from 47% in 2021 to 83% in 2024.

In addition, 71% of footwear companies stated that they conduct periodic audits of their suppliers regarding legal, environmental and social compliance.

Struggle continues for plantbased meat alternatives

Plant-based meat alternative brand Beyond Meat has reported revenues of $213.9 million in the first nine months of 2025, a fall of 14.4% year on year.

The California-based company said its revenues for the third quarter, the months of July, August and September, were $70.2 million, down by 13.3% compared to the same quarter last year. The summer months are usually peak cook-out season in the US. Figures from the company indicate a loss from operations in the third quarter of 2025 of $112.3 million. In the same quarter last year, it posted a loss of $30.9 million. Beyond Meat said its losses had gone up because of an increase in operating expenses and “weak

category demand”.

Founder, Ethan Brown, launched Beyond Meat in 2009 and is still the company’s chief executive. High-profile investors in the company and ambassadors for the brand include Jessica Chastain, Shaquille O’Neal, Bill Gates and Leonardo di Caprio.

Earlier this year, the chief executive of another plant-based meat-alternative brand, Impossible Foods’ Peter McGuinness, told the Wall Street Journal that US retail sales of plantbased meat-alternative products had been falling for ithe last three years and were likely to fall again in 2025.

Mr McGuinness said his company was considering adding meat to its burgers to increase sales.

Tandy Leather reports Q3 net loss despite year-to-date gain

Tandy Leather has reported a net loss of $1.35 million for the third quarter of 2025, widening from a loss of $132,000 in the same period last year.

The results reflect higher operating and other expenses, which offset benefits from the company’s ongoing cost control and brand initiatives.

Net sales for the quarter fell slightly compared with the prior year, according to the Texas-based leathercraft retailer. However, for the nine months ending September 30, Tandy Leather achieved a net income of $10.03 million, driven largely by a one-time gain from the sale of its corporate headquarters.

The company, which operates a network of retail stores supplying leather, tools and related materials, said it will continue to build on its established retail and brand presence as it seeks to manage current market pressures and pursue sustainable growth in future quarters.

Trump accuses meatpackers of price fixing

US President Donald Trump has asked the justice department to investigate meatpackers, accusing them of “driving up the price of beef through collusion, price fixing and price manipulation”.

However, industry association The Meat Institute said market transactions are transparent and data from USDA confirms the sector is experiencing “catastrophic losses”.

Meat Institute CEO Julie Anna Potts said: “Despite high consumer prices for beef, beef packers have been losing money because the price of cattle is at record highs. For more than a year, beef packers have been operating at a loss due to a tight cattle supply and strong demand.

“US beef processors welcome a fact-based discussion about beef affordability and how best to meet the needs of American consumers, who are the industry’s most important stakeholders.”

Revenue growth for Tyson, in spite of falling beef volumes

Meat and leather group Tyson Foods has reported full-year revenues of $54.4 billion for the 12 months to the end of September 2025.

This represents an increase of 3.3% compared to the company’s previous financial year.

Beef was by far the group’s biggest category, bringing in revenues of $21.6 billion, an increase of 9% year on year. Tyson said this increase was in spite of a fall of 1.9% in the volume of beef it processed.

Tyson quoted the US Department of Agriculture as saying a further fall in beef production, of 2%, is likely to occur in 2026.

OCEANIA

Waste hides converted into highvalue collagen

Anewcollaboration between Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) and Queenslandbased Freeze Dry Industries (FDI) has

converted waste hides into high-value collagen ingredients, offering an alternative outlet for materials not used in leather production.

The work began in 2019 under MLA’s Product and Packaging Program and has now reached a commercial milestone with the launch of the Organic Collagen Australia brand in major US retail channels. The development supports growing global demand for bovine collagen in the wellness and nutrition sectors.

MLA programme manager for food innovation, John Marten, said the project demonstrated how industry research could generate new markets for the red meat supply chain. The early stages examined how freezedrying technology could process low-value materials such as hides, bones and offal, before confirming the commercial potential of Australian collagen for export.

Mr Marten said the outcome showed that large-scale production was achievable and that international demand for Australian collagen products was strong.