CALIFORNIA COLLECTION
MARCH 2026
www.winemerchantmag.com www.californiawines.co.uk
Why California is fertile ground for wine explorers
Our California Collection winners demonstrate that there’s no shortage of interesting wines being imported, and at prices that, while undoubtedly premium, often represent terrific value when benchmarked against their European peers
Jancis Robinson has been a fan of California wine for a long time. In the early 80s, when she and her husband Nick Lander reopened London’s L’Escargot restaurant, the wine list was entirely American and mostly sourced from the golden state.
A lot has happened since then, as anyone who has kept tabs on California’s wine scene will testify. But Robinson’s affinity with the state endures. “I love the fact that it’s much more experimental now and there are far more wines that are fresher, and genuinely trying to express place,” she told The San Francisco Chronicle in October 2025.
Independent merchants in the UK seem to be buying into this idea too. There was a time when indies could have been forgiven for pigeonholing California as a producer of commercial blockbusters, and the heavier, oakier styles that played well in the domestic market but were going out of fashion with British consumers. These days, the evidence that California offers so much more than this can be found within the lists of almost every importer working with the independent trade.
Once again, our California Collection winners demonstrate that there’s no shortage of interesting wines being imported, and at prices that, while undoubtedly premium, often represent terrific value when benchmarked against their European peers.
It’s pleasing to see Zinfandel, a variety that’s sometimes misunderstood and unfairly maligned, placing strongly this year. For many Californian growers, this is the variety they’re proudest of, and the best examples have elegance as well as earthiness; finesse as well as fruit.
Of course, the other star varieties were always likely to be Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – grapes with which California is adept at making world-beating wines. But some esoteric red and white blends also make the cut, and these wines created an extra buzz on judging day. We’d love to see more of these in next year’s competition.
The best wine merchants have always been the explorers: people who are ready not just to break new ground, but to reevaluate regions they might already know. California is not the same place it was when L’Escargot opened in 1981 or what it was even a decade ago. It’s evolving all the time, and for the better. It’s fertile ground for independents.
Graham Holter, Editor, The Wine Merchant
OUR JUDGES
jen avina
damn yankee london
jack baldock
broadway cellars
cambridgeshire
leo bruton-simmonds the salusbury wine store london
blaine nissen
kabinett vinbar
rugby
ed dallimore
crystal palace wine club london
ryan jarovides
pomus
margate
virginia myers
tenaya
sheffield
mark wrigglesworth the good wine shop london
Massican Annia 2023
napa valley
ENOTRIA
Massican is the only winery in Napa and Sonoma dedicated to white wine, with a focus far beyond Chardonnay. Annia is an eclectic Mediterranean blend led by Friuli natives Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friulano. “Annia is a huge point of difference and so well-suited to the region,” said the judges. “This winemaking freedom is part of what makes California special.”
Massican Gemina 2023 california
ENOTRIA
“Fruit, fruit, fruit” was the verdict on this second white blend from the Massican portfolio, this time made from varieties indigenous to Campania in southern Italy. Falanghina and Greco account for 49% and 45% of the blend respectively, with a touch of Fiano completing this unlikely homage. “This is so much fun,” said one judge. “Give me this on the shelf over Sauvignon Blanc every day of the week.”
Ridge Grenache Blanc 2023
paso robles
BERKMANN WINE CELLARS
The winemaking philosophy at Ridge is about respecting nature’s will, notably through the use of indigenous ferments and the absence of enzymes, nutrients and additives in the winery. This makes finding varieties that, like Grenache Blanc, thrive naturally in California essential. The judges concluded that this is “a great addition to the Ridge portfolio: savoury and gastronomic with a white plum richness”.
Clendenen Family
Vineyards Chenin Blanc
2023
santa barbara county
Wanderlust Wine
Created by the legendary Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat in 2000, the aim of the Clendenen Family Vineyards project was to explore unconventional styles and varietals in a small, artisanal fashion. This Chenin is whole bunch-pressed and left on the lees in a 350-litre French oak barrel, to make a “lush and textured” wine. “Is there anything that the Clendenens get wrong?” asked the panel.
Metz Road Riverview Vineyard
Chardonnay 2021
monterey county north south Wines
The Riverview Vineyard is the beating heart of Metz Road. This granitic site, wrapped in Monterey Bay’s fog blanket, produces 16 barrels in total of the two Metz Road labels. The Chardonnay is aged for 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels. The judges admired this “ultimate mouth feel” kind of wine, with “buttered corn, nuts and minerality lying under a core of lean melon and peach fruit”.
Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2022
russian river valley alliance wine
Paul Hobbs pools from numerous sites across Russian River to create this “proper Cali Chard”. The wine is bottled without fining or filtering after a native yeast ferment to give a snapshot of the vintage. It was highlighted by the judges as “everything you would want from Chardonnay in this subregion” for its “classy persistence, sweet apricots, toasted hazelnuts and super long finish”.
Solomon Hills Estate
Chardonnay 2022
santa maria valley armit Wines
Tucked into the furthest west part of the Santa Maria Valley, the Solomon Hills vineyard is the coolest in the whole AVA. Praising a wine that “will never go out of fashion”, the judges emphasised a fine balance between modern purity and freshness with classic Californian sensibilities: “There’s roundness and texture without trying too hard. It’s a near-perfect Chardonnay.”
Qupé Chardonnay 2023
santa barbara county alliance wine
Qupé focuses on cool, well-drained sites across the Central Coast, and there was consensus among the judges that this punched well above its price point. It showed “beautiful balance” with “lush, weighty stone fruits, zingy citrus and a striking minerality”. As one judge said, “this is exactly how to keep the Central Coast in check”.
Lucia by Pisoni Estate Cuvée Chardonnay 2023
monterey county berkmann wine cellars
The Pisoni family has farmed Monterey County soil since the turn of the 19th century, but the Lucia project wasn’t born until some 200 years later. Pisoni depicts the vineyards for this cuvée as “drenched in fog and clinging to rugged hillsides”. However, the resulting wine is an “opulent and rich” expression of Monterey. “Did I just wake up in the Hamptons?” asked one judge.
Radio-Coteau Savoy
Chardonnay 2021
anderson valley
Berkmann Wine Cellars
The grapes for this wine are sourced from a single vineyard in the Anderson Valley. After 16 months in a considered mix of French oak, Radio-Coteau bottles without fining and filtering to preserve the character of the gravel-laden site. “This is very Burgundian; elegant and precise with orchard fruit, salinity and freshness,” one judge said. Another added: “I’m not a huge Chardonnay lover but I’d polish this whole bottle off.”
Banshee Chardonnay 2024
sonoma county
richmond wine agencies
The Banshee project started in 2009 around a bar table in San Francisco. Borrowing money from friends and family to get started, the aim of the founders was to make wines that show the greatness of California at accessible prices. Showcasing the entry point of the Banshee range, the judges highlighted it as “a great by-the-glass pour”, praising its “balance, restraint and summery freshness”.
Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2024
sonoma coast
richmond wine agencies
While piloting his plane over the Russian River in 1972, Chalk Hill founder Fred Furth realised that natural amphitheatres carved into the eastern Sonoma hills were perfect for viticulture. The judges described this wine, the estate’s Sonoma Coast snapshot, as a wine that “isn’t trying too hard; it’s juicy Chardonnay with a lovely weight of ripe melon fruit, less prominent oak and a finish that defies its price point”.
How the judging works
The weather in south London in early January involves more sleet than sun. But we still aim for something of a laidback Californian vibe when our judges convene at the WBC showroom in Herne Hill to put 130 or so wines through their paces.
The judges are all independent merchants, selected for their specialism in, or enthusiasm for, California wines. We prime them with coffee, issue them with clipboards, and encourage them to get tasting.
They get to see the bottles: since we launched the California Collection a decade ago, it’s never been a blind tasting, and it just seems to work this way. We like the fact that some wines are already familiar, and that judges can chat about them together. We also let our judges know the RRPs of what they’re tasting.
The wines they taste, which are flighted by category, have all been sent in by UK importers. Anyone who works with indies is welcome to take part and there’s no entry fee.
We ask our panel to place coloured stickers on the wines that impress them most. Once everything has been tasted by everyone, we simply count up the stickers – and our winners are revealed.
Hartford Court Chardonnay 2023
russian river
fells
It’s hard to question Hartford’s “high risk, high reward” ethos when its portfolio spans 25 single vineyard bottlings in addition to regional wines such as this. With fruit sourced from a handful of growers in three pockets of the Russian River, the judges praised this wine for its refinement and elegance “without sacrificing drinkability” and its “creamy ripe fruit and soft, well-integrated oak”.
Robert Mondavi Winery The Estates Chardonnay 2021 Carneros enotria
Hugh Johnson famously described the pre-Mondavi wine world as one “content to rest on its laurels”, crediting its founder Robert with reawakening the entire Californian industry with his pioneering Napa adventures. This wine, from two windswept vineyards on the Napa side of Carneros, was described by the judges as “masterful”, detailing its “extreme length, weight and freshness”.
“When I was setting up our California range, I knew there were things that would automatically do well and have a big following”
“People are starting to understand regionality”
jen avina, damn yankee
I was born and raised in California and part of the reason I opened Damn Yankee was because I wanted to introduce more Californian wine into the UK.
Younger generations are increasingly open to drinking wine from around the world, from small terroir-focused producers, so it seemed like a great opportunity, because California is making those types of wines beautifully.
Many more wines are coming over from various regions and people are starting to understand Californian regionality through grape varieties they’re familiar with. Whether it’s Pinot or Chardonnay or Cabernet, the door is opening for people to come and explore the diversity of California.
“We always have customers asking for California”
jack baldock, broadway cellars
There’s something for everyone in California and it’s always going to be an area of the wine world that’s interesting to a lot of people. It’s important for us too: we always have customers asking for California and the more exposure people get to its variation in styles the better.
When I was setting up our Californian range, I knew there were things that would automatically do well that have a big following, such as Ridge. For the rest it was about tasting as much as possible and cherry-picking the ones that I thought would fit – and it’s working well. It’s a mixture of knowing what works and finding new and interesting things.
I’d like to find more value, though. Many of our wines sit at the £40£60 range and wines below that price haven’t delivered in the past, but it’s just a case of finding the right ones.
£31.05
Hope Family Wines
Troublemaker NV
central coast
Awin Barratt Siegel
The troublemaker in question is winemaker Austin Hope, who in his younger days was frequently banished to the vineyards by his parents as a punishment for his bad attitude. This non-vintage blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, in eye-raising packaging, reflects his knack for disruption. “Bacon fat right from the start, cooled by juicy blue and black fruits: a perfect balance between sweet and savoury,” said the judges.
Longboard Point Break 2022
sonoma
cachet wines
This blend of Russian River Valley Syrah with Alexander Valley and Russian River Merlot and Malbec started as a fun experiment in 2006 and has now become a flagship wine in the Longboard range. “This screams California inside and out: so juicy, with concentrated dark fruits and elegant hints of spice,” said one judge. Another enjoyed its “honest and fruit-forward” drinkability.
Clendenen Family Vineyards Pip Red Blend
2019
central coast
wanderlust wine
It took 20 years, and the birth of a whole new vineyard project, for Au Bon Climat’s Jim Clenenden to make his first red blend. This Tuscan-inspired tapestry of Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon is named after his dog Pip, who would expect cellar door guests to partake in hours of frisbee throwing. The judges described the wine as “robust, dark and brooding with great ageing potential”.
Quigley Old Stake 1901 Field Blend 2019
lake county ally wines
Over its 125 years, 16 grape varieties have thrived in the high-altitude, dry-farmed conditions of the Old Stake vineyard in the heights of Lake County. Within the mix are Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Zinfandel, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. The judges admired its “lovely up-front fruit and whack of spice on the end”, and one simply noted: “This is gorgeous.”
Ridge Geyserville 2022
alexander valley
berkmann wine cellars
Geyserville is home to Ridge’s oldest vines, with those in the block known as the Old Patch more than 130 years in age. This mostly Zinfandel field blend calls on Carignan, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre to paint the final picture. The judges loved this for its “gorgeous, pretty fruit”, layered with a “delicate persistence” and “vibrant herbaceousness”.
Bien Nacido Estate The Captain Pinot Noir 2018
santa barbara county armit wines
This vineyard, in the heart of the Santa Maria Valley, is one of the oldest in cool-climate California, and with a generous lashing of limestone it’s a happy hunting ground for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Captain is made from the highest block on the site. The judges found “everything you’d expect from Santa Maria: it’s pretty and delicate with crunchy redcurrants and green pepper”.
“The California lifestyle inspired my shop”
virginia myers, tenaya wine
Having lived in California, it’s my main passion in the wine world. The Californian vibe and lifestyle inspired the shop, and we are named after a lake in Yosemite, so naturally I have more Californian than the average wine shop.
This can be difficult in Sheffield because the wines tend to sit at higher price points. I use my own accounts and experiences of California, knowledge of the geography and my close relationships with the producers we stock to drive interest. I just love it and really enjoy sharing California with people.
I believe that, compared to regions like Burgundy and Barolo, California offers great value in the £30-£60 price bracket, and a lot of customers appreciate that and like the more modern vibe that its wines bring.
“The nice thing is that California still surprises people”
leo bruton-simmonds, the salusbury wine store
We are big fans of Californian wines. When California does wine well it does so in its own style and is just delicious. But it’s unfortunately becoming more of a luxury, because of the competition it faces for value compared to other regions, and we have to be more selective than ever these days.
The nice thing is that California still surprises people. There’s still a stigma that it’s big, oaky and rich. Showing that there’s tons of stuff which is drinkable and fresh is great, so we can make sure that’s what makes it on to our shelves.
Racines Santa Rita Hills
Cuvée Pinot Noir 2019
santa rita hills
liberty Wines
Racines is the product of two long-lived producers from Champagne and Burgundy joining forces across the pond. Its estate Pinot has fruit sourced from numerous vineyards on the Santa Rosa Road corridor. After an indigenous fermentation with 50% whole bunches, the wine is aged in barriques for 18 months. “Now we’re talking,” said one judge. “Savoury, bright and complex … this isn’t boastful, just beautiful.”
Tassajara
Pinot Noir 2023
monterey
grape passions
Tassajara is the name of the hot springs regarded by Monterey’s indigenous people as a place to renew their spiritual energy. Selected from numerous vineyards across Monterey County, 100% of the physical energy used in its production comes from wind turbines. “It’s remarkable to produce such a complete Pinot Noir at this price point,” said one judge. “There’s a concentration of red fruit with a depth of light spice.”
Nielson
Pinot Noir 2023
santa barbara county boutinot
Named after Uriel J Nielson, who planted Santa Barbara’s first commercial vineyard, the grapes for this wine are sourced from vineyards heavily influenced by the Pacific. After fermentation in stainless steel, it is aged in French oak for seven months. This “silky, appealing Pinot” was admired by the panel as being “soft and generous without losing purity”.
Calera Central Coast
Pinot Noir 2021
central Coast
Top Selection
Robert Parker once described Calera as “one of the most compelling Pinot Noir specialists of not only the new world, but planet earth”. The judges described Calera’s introductory Pinot as “the ultimate Californian Pinot at this price point”. It charmed with a “European elegance” that presented “lovely, lush cherry fruit with a great balance of freshness and roundness”.
Calera de Villiers
Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020
Mt Harlan
Top Selection
It took founder Josh Jensen two years to find the right home for Calera, a search that ended when he discovered the limestone-rich foothills of Mount Harlan. Located 2,200ft above sea level, this is one of the highest and coolest vineyards in California. “Pinot heaven,” said one judge. “There’s a herbal quality rarely found in Californian Pinot, so unusual and interesting.”
Buena Vista
Pinot Noir 2023
california
berkmann Wine cellars
Established in 1857, Buena Vista lays claim to being “California’s first premium winery”. Its founder died in a crocodile-infested river in the Nicaraguan jungle 12 years later, but the brand lives on. This “solid, well-made Pinot” is the entry point to the Buena Vista range, with the judges additionally describing it as “fresh, pretty and soft with delicate red fruits”.
Longboard Russian River
Pinot Noir 2022
russian river valley cachet wines
Winemaker Oded Shakked fell in love with Sonoma County in the late 1980s when he enrolled on the wine programme at UC Davis, saying he “felt roots growing from the bottom of his feet”. With fruit from three Russian River vineyards, the wine is aged for 13 months in French oak, 30% of which is new. “This is begging for crispy duck tacos after a day at the beach,” said the judges. “It has depth, salinity and interest in abundance”.
Kosta Browne Santa Rita
Hills Pinot Noir
2021
santa rita hills top selection
Dan Kosta and Michael Browne pooled the tips from the restaurant they worked at to buy their first grapes in 1997. Self admittedly “obsessed with Pinot Noir”, Kosta Browne sources the fruit for this wine from 10 sites across the fog-prone AVA. The judges found a Pinot Noir that “has all the hallmarks of a great wine, artfully marrying power, finesse and a super-long finish”.
Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
paso robles
Awin Barratt Siegel
Meaning “passageway of oaks”, the natural beauty of Paso Robles is widely known, but Hope Family Wines winemaker Austin Hope saw its potential for fine wine when he bottled the first vintage of this Cabernet in 2017. Ever since it has been credited with elevating the reputation of the region. The judges said it was “packed with soft cocoa and coffee underneath a density of dark fruit”.
Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
paso robles
Awin Barratt Siegel
Established in 1975, Liberty School is evidence of the dedication to Paso Robles of Hope Family Wines. Fruit is sourced from seven of the AVA’s 11 districts, with vineyard lots fermented separately, before ageing for 20 months in a combination of French and American oak. The judges described it as “exactly what exciting Cabernet should taste like”, praising its “melt-in-the-mouth lushness”.
Mount Brave Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
napa valley fells
Mount Brave describes its home on Mount Veeder as one “where winegrowing is not for the timid”. As high as 1,800ft above sea level, and anchored to steep slopes, its Cabernet vines struggle on poor rocky soils. “True to the terroir” is how the judges described it, adding: “Elegant, refined and classy, with fine tannin interwoven through fresh blackcurrant fruit.”
Ranch 32 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
monterey North south wines
“For a Californian Cabernet at £20 this has real elegance,” said the judges, impressed with the Monterey Cabernet’s “cool, pure cassis, medium body and soft velvet tannin”. When Ranch 32 planted its first Monterey vineyard in 1972, the county’s winegrowing reputation was in its infancy. The fruit is sourced from two estate vineyards in the San Lucas and Hames Valley AVAs in the south of the region.
“We give people what they want, but with a twist”
ryan jarovides, pomus
Over the years when I’ve listed Californian wines, they’ve always ended up being quite premium, highly recognised names, but now I think we are in a situation where there is better value to be had from lesser known, up-and-coming producers.
I think Californian wines are great but, as they compete with European wines that might offer the same quality for a cheaper price, it’s essential that there’s a story around them to sell in the UK. Showcasing and championing new and exciting producers is the way to do this and something that I think will resonate more in the UK.
Despite this, customers still expect to see certain wines. We like to give people what they want, but with a twist, which might be the profile they’re looking for but through a different variety, for example.
Recently we did a tasting with a Californian producer making Gamay and low-intervention skin contact wines. The conversations that come from wines like that go a long way.
“We showcase the cool stuff as much as possible” blaine nissen, kabinett vinbar
The one thing I would say about California is that because there are no restrictions on variety within appellation structures, producers can just get weird. You can go and plant Assyrtiko or Aglianico or whatever because nobody says you can’t. The UK market doesn’t lean into this as much as it should. It’s great to see wines like The Massican here today; this is the stuff that should be getting more attention. California is also about what’s suited to the climate, not just throwing Cabernet down in Paso Robles because it’s what people want to drink.
As a Californian, I try to make sure we showcase the cool stuff as much as possible; wines have to be personal to me and make me happy. Lots of regions can show classic Cab or Pinot, but for Californian wine to find my shelf it has to resonate beyond that.
Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
california top selection
A recognisable classic by any measure, Decoy prides itself on “attractively priced wines from exceptional sources”. This Cabernet is blended with a sneaky 6% of Merlot and aged in French oak, 40% new, for 18 months to create this “old faithful”. The judges enjoyed its “no frills” personality: “Grown-up but not overly serious, there’s a fluency to the gorgeously lush fruit and perfect acidity,” they said.
Elizabeth Spencer Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
mendocino TOP SELECTION
In the heart of Napa Valley’s Rutherford there’s an 1870s post office that’s today home to Elizabeth Spencer’s beautiful tasting room, where bottles of this Mendocino Cabernet are no doubt regularly sunk. “This was a winner from the moment my nose approached the glass,” said one judge. “Proper Cab at an amazing price, this has purity and an almost European elegance.”
Denner Mother of Exiles Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
paso robles enotria
Produced using electricity supplied entirely from Denner’s own solar panels, this Cabernet-led blend from Willow Creek in Paso Robles sees a touch of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Tannat join the action. The judges said: “There isn’t anyone who wouldn’t enjoy this with a steak. It’s hefty and structured with loads of dark fruit and the beginnings of tertiary development.”
Orin Swift Papillon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
CALIFORNIA enotria
Dave Phinney is entertainingly frank about the bumps on his rise to success, his story reaching a comedic peak when he sold his The Prisoner label to a man who later ended up in jail. Papillon has been in the Orin Swift range since 2007 and has become something of a Napa icon. “This is salt-of-the-earth Cab,” said one judge. “I can feel the dirt under my nails when I drink it, which makes me feel I’ve earned another glass.”
Clay Shannon Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
LAKE COUNTY boutinot
The winery’s eponymous owner Clay Shannon is committed to sustainability, and 1,000 acres of his Lake County ranch is transitioning to become one of the largest regenerative farming systems in the US. This estate-sourced Cabernet, with a touch of Syrah and Petite Sirah, was highlighted for its “bite and power”. It impressed the panel as a “richer red without being too big”, with one judge simply calling it a “smasher”.
Kautz & Kramer Block 50 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
lodi
matthew clark bibendum
John Kautz’s parents emigrated from Germany in search of the American dream and bought a parcel of land in Lodi. He married Gail Kramer in 1958 and together they became pioneers in making Lodi the premium wine region that it is today. The judges noted a wine of “understated richness and concentration” with “blackcurrant, toasty oak and well-managed tannins”.
Far Mountain Fission
Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
moon mountain district liberty
Wines
Only 1,500 of the Moon Mountain AVA’s 17,000 acres are under vine. The rest is wild and rugged terrain. Alta Vista is the dry-farmed vineyard that produces the grapes for this Cabernet, planted in the 1970s with the type of topographic terraces that you would expect to see in Galicia or the Douro, not California. “Suave and sumptuous, with pure black fruits and a distinct Cabernet leafiness,” said the judges.
Decoy Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
alexander Valley
top selection
The fruit for this limited release comes from numerous sites across the Alexander Valley AVA in the north east of Sonoma County, including Decoy’s own estate vineyards. Following the template of its flagship Cabernet, Decoy employs a small percentage of Merlot and 40% new French wood. The judges enjoyed a “great value” wine with “loads of complexity and clarity”.
Robert Biale Party Line Zinfandel 2023
napa valley
Formerly the wine treasury
The teenage Aldo Biale secretly sold jugs of homemade Zinfandel on a party phone line in the 1940s, using a code word to disguise what he was doing. One judge said this modern-day wine inspired by the story is “the best Zin at this price point: rich, velvety and earthy with lightness and length,” adding: “You can’t resist Zin when it’s done so skilfully.”
“The value is absolutely there if you’re willing to delve deep enough”
ed dallimore,
crystal palace wine club
We’re still in a situation where punters generally haven’t seen many Californian wines. Even though the trade understands the variation in its offering, many drinkers haven’t had that access. Those that do know a little tend to generalise it as Napa Cabernet, massive Chardonnay and premium prices. Of course, all those things exist but what we love to do is showcase California’s huge variation at every price bracket. There are adventurous customers but, naturally, more traditional ones who might just want a rich oaky Chardonnay, which is cool too. There’s a time and a place for everything. That’s what I like about California: you can cover so much ground in terms of variety and styles from just one place. What has historically limited that exploration in the UK is the small amount that makes it over, but once the wines are here, the value is absolutely there if you’re willing to delve deep enough.
“Producers are making lots of elegant, restrained, classy wines”
mark wrigglesworth, the good wine shop
California has changed a lot during my time in the industry. The big, over-oaked, over-extracted styles that it unfortunately had a reputation for back in the day have begun to change in the last 10 years. Oak is reducing, and producers are picking earlier, controlling sugar levels and managing extraction to make more balanced wines. Of course, there’s a commercial style that works for some but, on the whole, it’s evolved nicely, with producers making lots of elegant, restrained, classy wines.
It’s a significant part of our range, especially for our local ex-pat crowd, and we try to cater to both traditional and modern expectations across styles, price points and varietals.
Red wines
Robert Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel 2023
napa valley
formerly the wine treasury
Gallina nera, or black chicken, was the code word used by Aldo Biale for his homemade Zinfandel in a heavily regulated post-Prohibition California (see entry for Party Line Zinfandel), which customers would order along with bona fide food items. One judge said of the latter-day Black Chicken: “All the Biale wines are well-crafted, but this is the pick of the bunch. The purity of fruit is simply fantastic.”
Criss Cross Old Vine Zinfandel 2022
LODI grape passions
The Criss Cross range is the result of a joint venture between producer Lange Twins and US importer Vino del Sol. The ethos is to over-deliver on price with “fruit-forward styles from premium vineyards”. This Zinfandel-led blend features some unconventional bedfellows: Barbera, Teroldego, Nero d’Avola, and even a dash of Tannat. “This is a bargain,” said the judges. “Lots of elegance, freshness and approachability.”
Leese-Fitch Old Vine Zinfandel 2019
california
lanchester wines
The variety of grape sources for this Zinfandel-led blend aims to balance Lodi’s fruit intensity with the cooler structure of wines from Clarksburg.
“Smooth like chocolate, this has delicious dark fruits tempered by acidity and a touch of smokiness,” said the judges. Noting that it was unashamedly crafted for “everyday enjoyment”, one judge asked: “Barbecue ribs anyone?”
Ridge Lytton Springs
Zinfandel 2022
dry creek valley
Berkmann wine cellars
In the heart of Dry Creek Valley lies Ridge’s Lytton Springs vineyard, bought in 1972, when the vines were already 80 years old. Now comfortably centenarian and then some, it continues to produce what one judge described as “the perfect red wine”. The panel said: “This is where Ridge truly shines. They know exactly what they’re doing, proving exactly why they’re a must-have on the shelf.”
Robert Biale Stagecoach Vineyard Zinfandel 2023
napa valley
formerly the wine treasury
Robert Biale boldly calls this site “the most serious planting of Zinfandel in Napa Valley’s modern era”.
Covering hundreds of acres of prime mountain vineyards, it’s “more like its own district”, the producer says. Judges were variously struck by its “newer-wave” style, while admiring it as “pretty, floral, taut and restrained” and “endlessly vibrant and juicy”.
Saldo
Zinfandel 2022
DRY CREEK VALLEY enotria
Saldo’s reputation was built almost 20 years ago on the release of its flagship Zinfandel and the wine remains at the forefront of its range. The Zin, which Saldo credits with “helping the reinvigoration of the variety”, is grown high above the fog line in the Grist vineyard on Bradford Mountain. It caught the attention of the judges as a “great point of difference” with “beautiful balsamic and tomato vine notes”.
Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel 2023
sonoma county liberty Wines
Since making its first plantings in 1895, Seghesio says it has been “kicking the same dirt and tending the same vines for over 125 years”. This Zinfandel, it says, represents the “ideal expression of Sonoma Zin in any given vintage”. Made with fruit pooled from 150 lots across the county, it was praised by the judges as “elegant and fresh with lightness and a beautifully integrated structure”.
Edmeades Mendocino Zinfandel 2022
mendocino county fells
“Bold wines from rugged coastal redwoods” is the Edmeades mantra. Founder Donald Edmeades first had the vision to plant vines in a remote part of western Mendocino. “An absolute go-to in this price bracket”, the wine charmed the judges with “chocolate, coffee and cocoa nibs” and “a lush, weighty richness that doesn’t make it any less approachable”.
