Resort 2023
The denim issue 1
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Images from collage by Paola Mattioli, 2019; Sarah Blais, 2020; Janette Beckman, 2016; Maria Grazia Chiuri, c. 1970s
“If Dior is about femininity, then it is about women. And not about what it was to be a woman 50 years ago, but to be a woman today.”
In the house’s 70th year, Maria Grazia Chiuri became the first woman to take the position of creative director at Dior. Since 2016, Chiuri has marked her time at Dior by casting a distinctly female gaze onto the brand, focussing on promoting her feminist ideals. The Roman-born designer brings new perspective to the Parisian landmark, reinterpreting the house codes through designs that explore
her fascination with the 1970s of her youth, the creation of confident, comfortable women and her beloved denim. Chiuri favours denim for its lightness and its comfort, often appearing at the end of her fashion shows dressed in baggy jeans. Denim reclaims comfort, durability and modernity for the new Dior woman, giving her the confidence that Chiuri wishes for all women.
"Jeans for me represent freedom."
Grazia Chiuri 3
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beginning in
NÎMES
a story
Denim’s French history and seafaring origins
Roman Maison Carre in Nimes by Carole Raddato, 2019
English tall-ship sailor wearing denim by David Moore, 1954
In the city of Nîmes in the south of France, fabric weavers in the 19th century developed a sturdy twill weave fabric composed of one indigo-dyed thread and one white thread. The cotton fabric was originally known as serge de Nîmes (twill of Nîmes). As this new textile grew in favour around the world, so developed the name it has today denim; de Nîmes. Denim was favoured by sailors across the Atlantic into the 20th century, who chose the fabric for its durability. It was used to make pants that were comfortable, strong and could even be tied up and used as inflation devices., Denim has come a long way since, and is beloved in fashion as a genderless, sturdy and inspiring textile that takes many forms. Denim is strong and creative, it originates from Southern France but has become beloved the world over.
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Images from collage by Willy Maywald, 1949; Cotton On, 2021; The Textile Trunk, 2021
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Denim is a staple at Dior, an androgynous textile that has been transformed for comfortable every day wear as well as more unconventional high fashion styles. As creative director of the house, John Galliano was the first to introduce denim to Dior womenswear, using the fabric for seductive dresses, jackets, jeans and boots in his 2000 collections. Denim appeared later at the house under Raf Simons, taking on his interpretation of the Bar Jacket for the Pre-Fall 2013 collection.
& denim
Now, denim is enjoying a revival under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s direction, taking the form of casual jeans, shorts, jackets and skirts as well as appearing on accessories, like Chiuri’s book tote, the Dior saddle bag and hats. Chiuri’s Dior uses denim to dress modern women, who require comfort, durability and chic from their clothing.
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introducing...
CHRIS 10
Photo by Jamie Morgan, 2020
aka. Christine and the Queens - our brand ambassador
Photo by Anna Victoria Best, 2018
Héloïse Letissier, Christine and the Queens, or Chris, as you may know her, has made her mark as the androgynous dancing Queen of emotional French synth-pop.
While her 2014 studio album Chaleur Humaine, released both in her native French as well as English, put her on the global map, she has now wellestablished her pop alter-ego with consequent projects and most recently, her 2020 EP, La Vita Nuova. Chris bears her identity in all that she does, expressing her genderprobing ideas of womanhood, sexuality and camp in her music and her look. The curly-mulleted star is recognised by her affinity for menswear and opulent suits, put on show with elegance and power in the dramatic
music videos that accompany her emotive, dance-driven pop music. Héloïse is a mainstay in Europe, but her work bridges international divides, representing the new images of women and queer artists that youth around the world want to see. Chris represents a new image for Dior. An image that embraces its French heritage while exploring the international stage, one that explores new ideas of femininity, as Christian Dior had always strived for. Chris is the Dior woman for a new generation.
"It's me obsessing with this idea of being a woman owning men's clothes, the idea of adapting menswear into a female's body and creating a new version of femininity."
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Images from collage by Camille Vivier, 2020 (left); Jamie Morgan, 2019 (main); Rebecca Hong, 2020 (right)
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The
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legacy
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Monsieur Dior’s legacy was founded with his 1947 debut collection, Corolle, or petals. Thus, launched the Bar Jacket and the famed ‘New Look’ silhouette, which remain staples for the house. Here, Dior presented a new concept of the Dior woman, who was extravagant and recalled the feminine ideals of the pre-war period. In the time since, the house of Dior has continued the legacy of evolving the Dior persona, reinterpreting silhouettes and the house codes for the contemporary audience. Developments in the Dior brand have taken the form of the oblique monogram, created by Mark Bohan, the cannage pattern, the bar jacket and the signature Dior grey. Dior remains dedicated to craftsmanship and seeking new images of femininity for the active, real women of today.
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Photo from Encyclopedia Britannica Inc., 1952
Photo of Christian Dior at the château, courtesy of Collection Musée Christian Dior, 1955
Christian Dior and Château de la Colle Noire Montauroux, France
Basking in the sun of southern France is the Provençal château where Christian Dior spent much of his later years. Here, Dior found a deep connection with the estate and the South, retreating from the frantic hive of Paris to this second home. On arrival at the château, Dior would immediately change into a baggy navy blue shirt and cotton trousers, before making his way to inspect the progress of his harvest and gardens. In his biography, Dior wrote, “I think of this house now as my real home, the
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home to which, God willing, I shall one day retire.” He eventually did make the permanent journey to his Southern home, where he remained for the rest of his life. Vacances du sud carries on the deep history between Dior and the South, the birthplace of denim, transporting the Parisian house to a holiday by the seaside of Southern France. This story presents a relaxed idea of Dior, just as monsieur Dior himself found repose at his home in the South.
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Images from collage by Rebecca Hong, 2021 (denim); Austin Neill, 2016 (ocean); Jérôme Galland, 2020 (chateau)
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Available in selected boutiques dior.com