BEYOND Louisse Pammit F2A
TABLE OF CONTENTS C on ce p t St a te me n t
2
M ood B oard
3-4
Tre nd s
5-8
He ro B od y
9 - 10
Se con d B od y
11-12
Th i rd B od y
13-14
Fab ri c Swa tch e s
15-17
He ro B od y St yl i n g
18
D e vel op me nt
19 -20
Ph otograp hy
21-25
Re t ai l Pri ce Re f e re n ce s
26 27- 29
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CONCEPT STATEMENT T he BEYOND 2022 Trans-seasonal Ready-to-Wear collection embraces and explores t he unfamiliar t hrough t he surrealist lens; challenging t radition and welcoming t he new age.
B
EYOND adheres to a vibrant primary colour palette inspired by surrealist artists Rene Magritte’s 1928 ‘Les Amants/The Lovers’ (Magritte, 1928), Salvador Dali’s 1937 ‘Metamorphosis of Narcissus’ (Dali, 1937) and Max Ernst 1937 ‘The Triumph of Surrealism’ (Ernst, 1937). Magritte’s artwork captures two figures kissing with their faces concealed with a cloth; disguising what lies beneath (MoMA, 2014); unbothered by the unknown gender or sexuality of the other person, which in this context is the unfamiliar. This was recreated in a hand illustrated print that was digitally modified and used as a motif throughout the collection. The sense of unfamiliarity is further conveyed through the distortion of the faces by smoking out and dragging the faces into nothing. Blue and red are the dominant colours with accents of yellow. The binary of blue and red react with each other as though it is accepting each other’s differences. This collection pushes traditional binary ways of thinking through challenging the male and female archetypes, creating genderqueer aesthetics. The BEYOND collection is composed of 3 bodies with distorted surrealist silhouettes. It is a versatile collection that has various detachable pieces. The first body introduces a loose silhouette of the traditional male archetype which includes an oversized traditional button down shirt with circular side body openings. It is composed of 100% cotton with a large scale red placement print. The centre front of the shirt extends past the hip to give the drop waist illusion. It is paired with exaggerated circular shaped shorts with a 100% blue cotton drill fabrication. The second body reveals the female archetype which
is challenged with a relaxed fitting jumpsuit composed of 100% red sheer silk. The outerwear for this body includes a voluminous coat with a hoodie and oversized draped adjustable drawstring sleeves. It also includes knitted polyester long sleeve mustard coloured gloves. The last body; the hero body; it fuses the binary archetypes; presenting a genderqueer body. It includes a mustard merino jersey wool knit body con turtleneck shirt with a balaclava mask. Paired with an adjustable curtain drawstring skirt with a sheer polyester composition. This skirt includes a digitally modified print of black brushstrokes over a textured blue background. It is accessorised with a drop waist corset created from repurposed fabric black denim fabric with large eyelets. The outerwear includes a cropped jacket hoodie with an exaggerated leg of mutton sleeve created from 100% organic cotton which also includes 80% Matte Polyester, 20% spandex gloves. The 2022 Trans-seasonal Ready-to-Wear collection is catered to the empowered creative youth who are expressive in their expressions of gender and sexuality. They are bold and courageous and always aim to challenge the status quo.
‘Bridging the gap between a fantastical dram world and rational reality”. -André Breton, 1924
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3
4
5
6. Sea Spring 2020
5. Jordan Dallah Australia Resort 2022
4. Pyer Moss Coutire Fall 2022
3. Lavni Ready-to-Wear 2021
2. Palomo Spain Fall 2021
1 Jordan Dallah Australia Resort 2022
6. Berluti Fall 2022
5. DSquared2 Resort 2022
4. Pyer Moss Coutire Fall 2022
3. Moschino Mens Spring Resort 2022
2. JW Anderson Menswear Spring Summer 2022
1. Gucci Fall 2021
PRETTY IN PRIMARY
DROP WAIST GORGEOUS
Jordan Dallah Australia Resort 2022
5. Richard Quinn Fall 2021
4.
3. N. Hollywood Fall 2021
2. Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring 2022
1. Rolf Ekrot Menswear Spring 2022
5. Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear
4. Danielle Frankel Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear
3. Dion Lee Ready-to-Wear Spring 2021
2. Thom Brown Dall 2021 Ready-to-Wear
1. Gucci Fall 2021
CINCHED
MASK UP
3.
6
7
5. Rick Owens Mens Spring/Summer 2021
4. Cecile Bahnsen Fall 2021
3. Y Project Mens Spring/ Summer 2021
2. Nina Ricci Resort 2022
1 Norma Kamali Resort 2021
5. Schiaparelli Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear
4. Danielle Frankel RTW Fall 2021
3. Talia Byre Spring 2022
2. Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 21 Couture
1 Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall 2021
SHEER BEAUTY
5.
CIRCULAR OPENINGS
5. Vivienne Westwood Fall 2021
4. Thom Browne Resort 2022
3.VJW Anderson Mens Spring Summer 2021
2. Commes des Garcons Homme Plus Fal 2021 Menswear
1. Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall 2021
5. Norma Kamali Resort 2021
4. Cult Gaia Resort 2022
3. Atlein Spring 2022
2. The Royal Danish Academny of Copenhagen Spring 2022
1 Stella McCartney Resort 2022
ALL RUCHED UP
4.
GENDERQUEER FASHION
8
9
BACK FRONT
H E RO B O DY BACK FRONT
BACK
BACK FRONT
FRONT
10
SECOND B ODY BACK
BACK FRONT
FRONT BACK FRONT
11
12
13
T H IR D B O DY
BACK
BACK
FRONT
FRONT
14
HERO BODY STYLING
15
Polyester
100% Merino Wool
100% Cotton
Sateen Polyester
80% Matte Polyester, 20% Spandex Organic Cotton
Sateen Polyester
HERO BODY FABRICS
16
SECOND BODY STYLING
17
Sateen Polyester
Silk
Organic Cotton
SECOND BODY FABRIC
18
THIRD BODY STYLING
19
100% Cotton Drill
Sateen Polyester
Cotton
THIRD BODY FABRICS
20
DEVELOPMENT 21
22
RETAIL PRICE H E RO B O DY
23
1 00% M e ri no Wool Skivvy Shirt B el acl ava M as k
$3 38 .8 0 €18 1.50
Sle e ve of M u tton C ropped Hoodie Jscket
$929 .60 €4 9 8 .10
Adju s t ab l e Ru ch e d Sk irt
$925.60 €4 9 6
B lack D e n i m C ors e t
$253.60 €135.8 8
G love s
$253.20 €135.6 6
RETAIL PRICE S E C O N D B O DY 100% Si l k C ors e t St yle Jum psuit Ad ju s t ab l e Ru ch e d Sleeve Hoodie Coat M e ri no Wool L on g Sleeve Gloves
T H IR D B O DY
$722.60 €38 7.17 $1, 74 6 .60 €935.8 5 $193.8 0 €103.8 5
O ve rs i ze d C otton Shirt with Adjustable Ru ch e d Sl e e ve s
$922.60 €4 9 4 .3 3
E x agge rate d C i rcu l a r Shorts
$706 €378 .30
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REF ER ENC E S CONCEPT STATEMENT René Magritte 2014, René Magritte. The Lovers. Paris 1928, The Museum of Modern Art, MoMA, viewed 13 July 2021, <https://www.moma.org/collection/ works/79933>. MOODBOARD IMAGES Dalí, S, 1931, Salvador Dalí. The Persistence of Memory. 1931, The Museum of Modern Art, MoMA, viewed 13 July 2021, <https://www.moma. org/collection/works/79018>. Dali. S, 1936, Salvador Dali - Night and Day Clothes of the Body 1936. art-Dali.com 2021, Art-dali.com, viewed 13 July 2021, <http://art-dali.com/1930_ second_56.html>. Dali. S, 1937, The Metamorphosis of Narcissus, Oil paint on canvas 511cm × 781 mm, Tate.org, Tate.org, viewed 1 June 2021, <https://www.tate.org.uk/art/ artworks/dali-metamorphosis-of-narcissus-t02343> Ernst. M, 1937, The Triumph of Surrealism, oil on canvas 114cm x 146cm, Sketchline, Sketchline, viewed 1 June 2021, <https://thesketchline.com/en/ pictures/the-triumph-of-surrealism/> Kahlo. F, 1944, The Broken Column, Museo Dolores Olmedo, viewed 1 June 2021, <https:// artsandculture.google.com/asset/the-brokencolumn-frida-kahlo/EgGMbMFBQrAe3Q?hl=en> Princess. K, 2020, Cheap Queen (Deluxe), Spotify, viewed 13 July 2021, <https://open.spotify.com/ album/5zzd05ffaL9xuXwQkVuxoF>. René Magritte 2014, René Magritte. The Lovers. Paris 1928, The Museum of Modern Art, MoMA, viewed 13 July 2021, <https://www.moma.org/collection/ works/79933>. Sukita. M, 1973, David Bowie Wearing Kansai Yamamoto, The Guardian, viewed 1, June, 2021, <https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/ gallery/2016/jan/11/david-bowie-key-lookspictures>
TREND REFERENCES Colour Primary Palette Berluti, 2021, Berluti Fall 2021 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/berluti/ slideshow/collection> DSquared2, 2021, DSquared2 Resort 2022, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/dsquared/ slideshow/collection> Gucci, 2021, Gucci Fall 2021 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/gucci> Moschino, 2021, Moschino Spring 2022 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/ moschino/slideshow/collection> Prutting. D, 2021, Pyer Moss Fall 2021 Couture, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-couture/pyermoss/slideshow/collection> Teller. J, 2021, JW Anderson Spring 2022 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July, 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/jw-anderson/slideshow/collection> Drop Waist Silhouettes Hick. B, 2021, Jordan Dalah Australia Resort 2022, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/australia-resort-2022/ jordan-dalah/slideshow/collection> Lanvin, 2021, Lanvin Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-towear/lanvin/slideshow/collection> Sea, 2021, Sea Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/sea/ slideshow/collection>
RE FE RENC ES
Spain. P, 2021, Palomo Spain Fall 2021 Ready-toWear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https:// www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-readyto-wear/palomo-spain/slideshow/collection>
Virtanen. O, 2021, Rolf Ekroth Spring 2022 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/rolfekroth/slideshow/collection>
Corset Brown. T, 2021, Thom Brown Fall 2021 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/ thom-browne/slideshow/collection>
Vuitton. L, 2021, Louis Vuitton 2022 Menswear Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/louis-vuitton/ slideshow/collection#57>
Gucci, 2021, Gucci Fall 2021 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www.vogue. com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/gucci>
Sheer Bowles , H 2021, Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2021 Couture Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021couture/jean-paul-gaultier#gallery-collection>.
ee. D, 2021, Dion Lee Spring 2021 Ready-toL Wear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https:// Vauthier, A 2021, Alexandre Vauthier Fall 2021 Couture www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, ready-to-wear/dion-lee/slideshow/collection> <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021couture/alexandre-vauthier/slideshow/collection#1>. Okwodu, J 2021, LaQuan Smith Fall 2021 Readyto-Wear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 Drawstring Rouging August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashionAtlein 2021, Atlein Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/laquan-smith>. Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022Satenstein, L 2021, Danielle Frankel Fall 2021 ready-to-wear/atlein/slideshow/collection#2>. Ready-to-Wear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/ Cochrane, J 2021, The Royal Danish Academy fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/danielleCopenhagen Spring 2022 Collection, Vogue, Vogue, frankel#gallery-collection>. viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/copenhagen-spring-2022/the-royalMasks danish-academy/slideshow/collection#5>. Hick. B, 2021, Jordan Dalah Australia Resort 2022, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https://www. Kamali, N 2021, Norma Kamali Resort 2022 Collection, vogue.com/fashion-shows/australia-resort-2022/ Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www. jordan-dalah/slideshow/collection> vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/norma-kamali/ slideshow/collection#11>. N.Hollywood, 2021, N.Hollywood Fall 2021 Menswear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, Circle Motifs <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021- Bahnsen, C 2021, Cecilie Bahnsen Fall 2021 Readymenswear/n-hoolywood/slideshow/collection> to-Wear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ Quinn. R, 2021, Richard Quinn Fall Ready-tofall-2021-ready-to-wear/cecilie-bahnsen/slideshow/ Wear, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 14 July 2021, <https:// collection#13>. www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-readyto-wear/richard-quinn/slideshow/collection>
Kamali, N 2021, Norma Kamali Resort 2022 Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/resort-2022/norma-kamali/slideshow/ collection#71>. OWENSCORP 2021, Rick Owens Spring 2022 Menswear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2022-menswear/rick-owens/ slideshow/collection#4>. icci, N 2021, Nina Ricci Resort 2022 Collection, R Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https:// www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/ninaricci/slideshow/collection#21>. /Project 2021, Y/Project Spring 2022 Menswear Y Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 15 August 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring2022-menswear/y-project/slideshow/collection#59>. GenderQueer Fashion Anderson. JW, 2020, JW Anderson Spring 2021 Menswear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 3 September 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2021-menswear/j-w-anderson/ slideshow/collection#11>. Browne. T, 2021, Thom Browne Resort 2022 Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 3 September 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ resort-2022/thom-browne/slideshow/collection#11>. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall, 2021, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall 2021 Menswear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 3 September 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2021-menswear/comme-des-garconshomme-plus#gallery-collection>. Ludovic de Saint Sernin, 2021, Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall 2021 Menswear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 3 September 2021, <https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/ ludovic-de-saint-sernin#gallery-collection>. Westwood. V, Vivienne Westwood Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection, Vogue, Vogue, viewed 3 September 2021, <https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/viviennewestwood#gallery-collection>.