Hungry? Dig into our new Fall Restaurant Guide to fill your belly. Find a dish that looks particularly appetizing, and try it today. You won’t regret it.
Thomas Stewart, otherwise known as Uptown T, is possibly the city’s oldest oyster shucker.
Emily Hingle chats with this local icon and hears stories about his 35 years working as a mermmelier at Pascal’s Manale. New Orleans has its own unique version of cuisine, including Italian food. Tim McNally explores the history behind the local fare known as “Creole Italian.” Tim also explores the magic of the Ramos Gin Fizz cocktail and how it’s tied to the legendary politician Huey P. Long.
Finally, fall festival season is here, and Where Y’at has the inside scoop. Enjoy our rundown of some of autumn’s
from
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Contributing Writers: Frances Deese, Rebecca Fox, Emily Hingle, Phil LaMancusa, Debbie Lindsey, Andrew Marin, Tim McNally, Kim Ranjbar, Kimmie Tubré
Cover: Oyster shucker Thomas W. "Uptown T" Stewart, photo by Romney Caruso
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Drago’s Seafood Restaurant, founded in 1969, is home to the original charbroiled oysters, which have been buttery, garlicky, and flame-grilled to perfection since 1993. This family-run favorite serves thousands of oysters daily, alongside seafood platters, stuffed lobsters, Louisiana classics, and the bayou carbonara, a creamy pasta with shrimp or crawfish. Get a front-row seat to the sizzling grill and enjoy. Multiple Locations, dragosrestaurant.com
El Gato Negro brings authentic Michoacaninspired Mexican cuisine to the Big Easy and the Westbank, with recipes rooted in a family story of immigration and grit. Known for handcrafted margaritas, tableside guacamole, and a tequila selection unmatched in the city, it also features standout entrées such as their tender, seasoned rack of lamb, served in a colorful and inviting space. Multiple Locations, elgatonegronola.com
Empanola is the go-to spot for high-quality empanadas while in New Orleans. Their traditional South American empanadas, such as the Beef Argentina and the Chicken Peruvian, are great picks, while the NOLA-inspired flavors of the gumbo, muffaletta, and crawfish etouffee are unique and absolutely delicious. Empanola also offers salads, desserts, coffee, alcohol, and more to enjoy. Multiple Locations, empanolaempanadas.com
Felix’s Restaurant and Oyster Bar has served Creole and Cajun cuisine and seafood for more than 70 years, with locations in the French Quarter, Lakeview, and Gulfport. Its signature stuffed redfish is served grilled or blackened with your choice of two sides. The menu also includes oysters shucked to order, gumbo, étouffée, po-boys, seafood platters, pasta, and more. Multiple Locations, felixs.com
Jamaican Jerk House delivers Caribbean flavors in a colorful setting in the Bywater, as well as a new spot in Metairie. The menu features jerk chicken, a jerk burger, and more. A standout dish is the tender and flavorful grilled oxtail served with rice, peas, and two sides. Jamaican Jerk House is a welcoming spot for hearty Jamaican comfort food and drinks. Multiple Locations, jamaicanjerkhouse.com
FRENCH QUARTER
Loretta’s Authentic Pralines became a New Orleans institution under founder Loretta Harrison, the first Black woman to own a praline company in the city. Known for its classic pecan pralines, festival-famous stuffed beignets, and Creole specialties including calas and praline beignets, Loretta’s has served as a beloved fixture at both Jazz Fest and within New Orleans proper. Multiple Locations, lorettaspralines.com
LUFU NOLA brings authentic Indian regional cuisine to the French Quarter and the CBD, offering bold dishes that are rarely seen in typical American restaurants. Start off with a plate of dahi ke kabob, which is made up of hung curd, kunafa sev, fried onions, and nuts. Make sure to also try LUFU’s tandoori plates, entrees, and even their special Indochinese fusion dishes. Multiple Locations, lufunolafq.com
Melba’s serves po-boys, rib plates, frozen daiquiris, and so much more around the clock for the citizens of New Orleans. Through its Eat and Read program, the restaurant hosts author events and also distributes free books, making it one of the only restaurants in the country to combine food service with a built-in literacy initiative. Multiple Locations, melbas.com
Middendorf’s has served its signature thin-fried catfish since opening on the Manchac waterfront in 1934, with a second location also open in Slidell. The paper-thin fillets, fried crisp to order, anchor a seafood menu that includes bayou pastas, oysters, and frog legs. Guests can dine in rustic, wood-lined rooms or on a covered deck overlooking the water. Multiple Locations, middendorfsrestaurant.com
Pizza Domenica is a pizzeria with an Italian oven that cooks thin-crust pies at 800 degrees. The menu features garlic knots, fungi pizza, and meatballs with polenta, plus a beer list with 12 rotating taps and over 30 cans and bottles. Happy hour runs Monday through Friday with half-off pizzas, wine, beer, and cocktails from 3 to 5 p.m. Multiple Locations, pizzadomenica.com
Venezia has served homestyle Italian food in New Orleans since 1957, including lasagna, veal parmigiana, chicken parmesan, filet mignon, and house-made cannolis. Known for its red sauce, stuffed mushrooms, and much more, the restaurant also offers steak nights. The Gretna location brings the same menu with piano music and a signature Caesar salad prepared tableside. Multiple Locations, venezianeworleans.com
TREMÉ
Lil’ Dizzy’s Cafe, in the historic Tremé neighborhood, is a family-run restaurant that serves Creole soul food. The menu includes fried chicken, gumbo, red beans and rice, seafood platters, crab cakes, and so much more to enjoy. Known for its community roots, Lil’ Dizzy’s Cafe continues a long, local tradition of New Orleans neighborhood dining. 1500 Esplanade Ave., (504) 766-8687, lildizzyscafe.net
Pulcinella! is a homestyle Italian spot, owned by Dirty Dime Productions, with a menu shaped by their Sicilian roots. Their seafood cannelloni, packed with shrimp, crab, and ricotta, is hand-rolled and served in a creamy, peppery sauce. Executive Chef Matty Hayes leads a small but ambitious team that serves classic entrees, while a great wine list offers great wine pairings. 1300 St. Bernard Ave., (504) 2211560, dirtydimeproductions.com
UPTOWN
Le Bon Temps Roule has been an Uptown staple since 1979. This 24-hour bar is known for live music, billiards, strong drinks, and its delicious food, such as its cowboy burger. Famous for its Bloody Marys and for its regular performances by the Soul Rebels, it offers a lively and inviting escape in the Uptown neighborhood. 4801 Magazine St., (504) 897-3448, lbtrnola.com
Lebanon’s Cafe has served authentic Middle Eastern cuisine in the Big Easy for over 20 years. Known for its rosemary lamb chops, chicken shawarma, fresh hummus, and more, it offers a cozy dining experience with large plates. Located on South Carrollton Avenue, the restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner, with takeout also available. 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., (504) 862-6200, lebanonscafe.com
Paulie’s Delicatessen is a New York-style deli serving cold cut sandwiches, espresso, and Italian comfort food. After closing his downtown New York-style deli, owner Paul Tufaro brought his menu Uptown with additions including pastas, cocktails, and a fullservice bar. The corner space also hosts live music, specials such as the Bronx Bomber, and seasonal drinks. 8201 Oak St., (504) 4128326, pauliesneworleans.com
Shaya is an Uptown New Orleans restaurant blending Israeli cuisine with Southern ingredients. The menu features wood-fired pita, hummus with many different delicious toppings, and vegetabledriven small plates. Opened in 2015 and currently operated by Executive Chef Fariz Choumali, the restaurant has earned national recognition for serving its modern Middle Eastern cooking in a casual setting. 4213 Magazine St., (504) 891-4213, shayarestaurant.com
U Pizza is a laid-back St. Charles Avenue restaurant known for its thin, crispy crust and heavily topped specialty pizzas, such as the Uptown, Greek, and Streetcar. The menu includes wraps, pastas, and salads, with gluten-free and vegan options available. Open late every night, it also offers outdoor seating, TV screens, and consistently fast delivery service. 1513 St. Charles Ave., (504) 3814232, upizzanola.com
Tal’s Hummus is a Magazine Street spot that is known for serving hummus bowls, falafel, shawarma, and kebabs. The restaurant opened in 2016 and is named for its founder, who prepares dishes the way he learned in Israel. Their pitas, such as the falafel pita, are baked in-house, and other plates include hummus, pickled vegetables, fresh salads, and more. 4800 Magazine St, (504) 267-7357, talshummus.com
The Vintage is a coffee shop and wine bar on Magazine Street offering traditional beignets, as well as fancy beignets. They also serve espresso drinks and cocktails. Open daily, it serves breakfast, lunch, and small dishes such as the apple brie flatbread. The space has both indoor and outdoor seating and even features late night bites on Friday and Saturday. 3121 Magazine St., (504) 608-1008, thevintagenola.com
WESTBANK
Asia, nestled inside of Boomtown Casino on the Westbank, offers gamblers a casual spot serving a variety of Asian favorites. Dishes include Vietnamese rice noodle soup, shaking beef, lo mein, fried rice, General Tso chicken or shrimp, and grilled pork. Asia is open from Thursday through Sunday for dine-in and to-go service, offering plenty of options to enjoy. 4132 Peters Rd., Harvey, (504) 366-7711, boomtownneworleans.com/dining
Gattuso’s Neighborhood Restaurant, Bar & Catering has served American, New Orleans, and Italian comfort food in Gretna’s Historic District since 2000. Known for its dog-friendly courtyard, daily specials, and community events, it offers po-boys, burgers, red beans and rice, grilled salmon, and more. The restaurant also provides takeout, delivery, and catering for on-site or off-site gatherings. 435 Huey P Long Ave., Gretna, (504) 368-1114, gattusos.net
Legacy Kitchen Steak + Chop offers a full steakhouse menu with options such as a tomahawk, cowboy bone-in ribeye, seafood plates, and charbroiled oysters. Daily lunch, dinner, and happy hour are served, alongside weekly steak night specials. The restaurant features a central bar, outdoor seating, and a spacious dining room. 91 Westbank Expy., Gretna, (504) 608-6082, legacykitchen.com
Mosca’s Restaurant has served Creole Italian classics in its garlic-scented, wood-paneled roadhouse since 1946. Famous for family-style dishes including chicken a la grande, shrimp Mosca, and spaghetti bordelaise, its recipes have been passed down through generations. This James Beard award-winning institution offers a timeless dining experience steeped in tradition and is worth a drive to Westwego. 4137 US-90, Westwego, (504) 436-8950, moscasrestaurant.com
NOLA Steak is Boomtown Casino’s steakhouse, serving large cuts such as the 14 oz. NOLA strip, 16 oz. ribeye, and 18 oz. cowboy steak, all with a choice of delicious sides. It’s a go-to spot for casino regulars and guests looking for a solid dinner. Open Thursday through Saturday evenings, be sure to order the tomahawk steak. 4132 Peters Rd., Harvey, (504) 366-7711, boomtownneworleans.com/dining
DON’T SLEEP ON ‘EM
More Less Famous Dishes to Order While in New Orleans
By Andrew Marin
New Orleans restaurants and chefs are renowned locally and internationally.
If you’re talented in the kitchen, everything on your menu will be delicious. There are no throwaway dishes.
While we all know their signature dishes, here are some of the city’s chefs and owners revealing their favorite dishes on their own menus. Here are the dishes only the real locals know about and that the regulars order. Don’t sleep on ‘em.
BARU BISTRO & TAPAS: Tiradito
Edgar Caro, chef and owner, says the “light, citrusy, fresh” tiradito is the perfect start for dinner at his Latin-Carribean restaurant. The fish rotates but has included selections such as raw hamachi crudo. “Hamachi is a rich, buttery fish and is one of my favorites when I go out for sushi.” At Baru, he confits aji amarillo and other aromatics over low heat and then blends them with fresh lime juice to create a creamy leche de tigre sauce for the fish. Jicama and radishes add crunch and a ginger salsa chalaca, similar to a spicy relish, adds heat. The dish is finished with a few drops of yuzu oil.
Most Famous Dish: Pescado frito, or fried fish, with sweet coconut rice and smashed fried plantains
BRASA SOUTH AMERICAN STEAKHOUSE: Coliflor
Co-owner Antonio Mata wants more diners to order the wood-roasted cauliflower. “It’s been on our menu since day one.” The cauliflower is carefully washed, cleaned, and then heavily seasoned with a secret spice mix, roasted, and finished on the grill right before being served on a bed of whipped feta, cilantro pesto, spiced almonds, and chili oil. Mata swears his team treats their vegetables “like a steakhouse,” and whether vegetarian or vegetable-enjoying, guests who taste the cauliflower return to order it again. “It’s a truly memorable dish, rustic and full of flavors and textures.”
MFD: Picanha—Australian wagyu beef coulotte steak
HERE TODAY: Broccoli salad
Chef and owner Michael Stoltzfus and his team fills his rotisserie chicken restaurant with the same farm-fresh ingredients and expertise as their other restaurant, the storied Coquette. He has no hesitation naming his sleeper dish. “We sell way more than I think we should, but it always gets great feedback when someone has it that doesn’t love broccoli.” A bowl of fresh florets in a
Slim Goodies
Jacques at Jacques-Imo’s
The Nell Shell
Jacques-Imo’s
creamy, flavorful dressing topped with shredded cheese. “It’s based on how I remember my mom’s broccoli salad as a kid.”
MFD: Whole Rotisserie Chicken, chicken fat rice, celery hot sauce, garlic mayo
JACQUES-IMO’S: Country-fried venison with peppery mushroom pan gravy
Chef and owner Jacques Leonardi feels like his venison is one of his favorite dishes that doesn’t get enough love. The venison is panéed, pounded flat, and fried until golden and crispy, then served with cracked black pepper and a white, country gravy. “It has a wonderful not-too-gamey flavor because of the mushrooms.” He recommends pairing it with a side of mashed potatoes.
MFD: Shrimp & Alligator Sausage Cheesecake
MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE: Scotty’s collard greens and grits, two poached eggs, spicy salsa macha, cilantro peanut salad
Lauren Agudo, co-owner and mama of Molly’s Rise & Shine, describes this dish so lovingly—the greens are rich in butter, the grits have a cream cheese tang, and the salsa macha and chopped peanuts add salt, crunch, and spice to the yolky drizzle of poached eggs. “This bowl is the realdeal, stick-your-ribs kinda hug-in-a-bowl that you need to get your day going.”
MFD: Grand Slam McMuffin—sage pork sausage, Liz’s English muffin, hash browns, griddled onions, fromage americain, Heinz ketchup
THE NELL SHELL: Sea-cuterie
Chef and co-owner Mary Nell Bennett says her “sea-cuterie,” a sea version of a charcuterie board, is her least-ordered and most-misunderstood menu item. Anchored by smoked Gulf yellowfin tuna dip—brined and cold-smoked onsite each week—the sea-cuterie comes with pickled “pink” onions, cowboy candied jalapeños, gherkins, garlic dip, and toasted slices of Dong Phuong brioche. She says the real sleeper move is adding one more thing from the sea, be it some tinned fish or one of the at least four caviars in rotation. “If you love snacking and dips, which is my love language, this is your jam.”
MFD: Maine-Style Lobster Roll on Dong Phuong brioche with lemon mayo dressing and chives
SEAWORTHY: Boquerones
Executive Chef Josh Boeckelman says the small-bite boquerones is one of the dishes “that represent us best.” White anchovies on potatoes with green goddess dressing and an herb salad. “Minimialist in style yet bold in flavor and technique—it represents my cooking style.”
Deborah Schumacher, chief eggs-ecutive officer of Slim Goodies, is excited to tell the story. “Once upon a brunch, back in the kitchen of Slim Goodies, eggs Benedict was mentioned, and we said, ‘Nah, we can do better.’” Her Napoleon Benedict was born not from tradition but from an act of culinary rebellion. The English muffin and Canadian bacon were ditched. This breakfast is a base of buttery sautéed spinach topped with a crispy, homemade potato latke. Layers of grilled tomato and freshly sliced avocado gently balance a soft, poached egg. Finally, a spicy crawfish cream sauce is poured, not merely drizzled, over everything. “It’s a medley of smoke, spice, and decadence—wild with flavor, bold, [and] different. It’s exactly what breakfast in New Orleans is supposed to taste like.”
MFD: Creole Slammer—hash browns, scrambled eggs, and a biscuit “drowned” in crawfish étouffée
“Always
Baru
Brasa
IT ALL TASTES SO GOOD TOGETHER
New Orleans’ Creole Italian Cuisine
By Tim McNally
It
is possible to say a mouthful with very few words and still be inaccurate. No, this is not about our political scene, although that comment would be applicable.
There is a popular descriptor about New Orleans cuisine that is slightly off the mark but does communicate what we all believe. The phrase is “Creole Italian.” We apply it all the time when describing the fare in certain restaurants around town. It’s a very short description of the culinary style of a restaurant and it communicates what the speaker is trying to describe. New Orleans has a lot of such phrases, such as “lagniappe,” “hot water heater,” “hosepipe,” “red gravy,” “mama and dem,” and the list goes on.
Creole Italian, although a well understood and often used descriptor applied to top-notch restaurants and food stylings, is wrong. Although, with that in mind, we are not going to change the descriptor, nor do we want to.
It is true that you will never encounter the phrase in any other city around the world. It’s a lot like asking people not from New Orleans how they are going to celebrate St. Joseph’s Day. The likelihood is that they know nothing about the day, when it is (March 19), who was St. Joseph, or about special altars that are created to offer food for free to anyone.
It is also likely that as you travel anywhere in the world, the flavors you will encounter in an Italian restaurant are at best vaguely similar to what you enjoy in New Orleans in home kitchens and restaurants featuring such cuisine. There’s a good reason why that is true, and it has everything to do with New Orleans history. At this point, many of you are cluing in to the theme of this article.
Up until 1861, Italy was a country comprising sub-countries, regions, and city-states. The end result was that, technically, there was no Italy as we know it today. The other reality that makes sense to our topic is that the great migration to New Orleans began in 1884, and the largest group of Italians to head to the Crescent City were Sicilian. Descendants of these immigrants still comprise the largest group of European immigrants now in our town.
Technically, this group was of Italian heritage, but, specifically, they were Sicilian by definition. Plus, prior to the 1861 formation of Italy, they would have been defined as such. The French Quarter neighborhood itself, during the period 1884 until 1924, was referred to as Little Palermo, taking the naming reference from the capital of Sicily. More than 300,000 local residents were of Sicilian descent.
The term "Creole Italian" was used because by the time this large wave of immigrants made it to New Orleans, their home territory on the southern end of the “boot” was within the newly refined country of Italy. While the lifestyle in New Orleans was akin to what they had left behind, the realities of New Orleans influences could not be denied. The manner in which they decorated their homes, their adherence to the Roman Catholic religion, which included the children’s education,
Restaurant Venezia
the holidays and festivals, and the cuisine remained firmly anchored to their Sicilian roots. Grocery stores, restaurants, markets, the cultural scene, employment on the Mississippi River, and their friends were all rooted in Sicilian ways. It’s what they knew, and they did not stray far.
Yet, the influence of New Orleans could not be denied or held back. The lifestyle and the culture of what this place offered was ultimately embraced, and we are all the better for it. Everyone literally brought something to the table that was quite unlike what was in place previously.
When other seaport areas, such as New York, Baltimore, New Jersey, and even South Florida, went through similar changes, those areas did not possess the strong cultural base of New Orleans. The prime example of the blend of these cultures is in cuisine. New Orleans, correctly, continues to be regarded as one of the finest dining cities in the world. We can grow vegetables that are singular. Does anyone doubt that New Orleans tomatoes, strawberries, yams, citrus, and, by extension, seafood are not treasures of gustatory pleasure?
As far as making the entire mash-up on the dinner plate together, New Orleans had already come to terms with the influences of West Africa, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, and western
Europe. Incorporating the overtones of Italy and Sicily was not an insurmountable challenge to gain acceptance. It all blended together so well.
From Italy, New Orleans brought in and grew basil, oregano, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, garlic and garlic powder, and onion. From Sicily, New Orleans embraced fennel, basil, red pepper flakes, thyme, and garlic. Among the Creole contributions were paprika, black pepper, thyme, oregano, basil, garlic, onion, and cayenne.
In order to appreciate New Orleans cuisine, one must recognize New Orleans’ “holy trinity” of cuisine: onion, bell pepper, and celery, used in many, many dishes of local origin. You can also see, with all those influences in cultures, culinary preparation, spices, and raw ingredients imposing their way onto the Crescent City, as to why New Orleans’ Creole Italian dishes are unlike Italian cuisines from other places. Who else other than New Orleanians has the plethora of ingredients from which to create attention-demanding results?
To be sure, while properly giving credit in all those places credit is due, there is also the historic fact that Creole Italian is more correctly "Creole Sicilian"—a singular New Orleans creation.
B. Montalbano Italian Delicatessen
Mandina's
THE SOUL OF THE SHELL Louisiana Loves its Oysters
By Kimmie Tubré
Down in the deep Gulf South, we don’t just shuck oysters, we celebrate them.
Here in Louisiana, finding, prepping, and cooking shellfish is the way of life for many, while enjoying them is the way of life for most. Oysters are no different. Whether they’re sliding fresh off the half shell, sizzling under a blanket of butter and breadcrumbs, or dressed up and tucked into a po-boy, these briny beauties reign supreme at everything from backyard boils to white-linen dinners.
The Gulf oyster has become a salty symbol of pride, pleasure, and pure Louisiana joy. While beloved by locals, this love isn’t just local. Oysters have been enjoyed around the globe for centuries, creating a worldwide legacy.
From Survival to Delicacy Oysters have been a part of the human diet for over 160,000 years, making them one of the oldest known foods consumed by people across the globe. Archaeological discoveries of ancient oyster shells on nearly every continent reveal that early coastal communities relied on oysters as a dependable, nutrient-rich food source that was easy to harvest by hand. As civilizations developed, oysters evolved from a survival sustenance to a prized delicacy.
The ancient Romans were among the first to cultivate oysters, building sophisticated farming systems and transporting them across their empire. The Greeks associated them with fertility and even used oyster shells in political votes. In medieval Europe, oysters remained a common food for the poor in coastal regions but gained status inland due to limited access. By the 17th through 19th centuries, oysters exploded in popularity across Europe and the Americas. It was an affordable street food and also often served in oyster saloons.
The popularity of oysters and the demand has had its ups and downs, yet it still remains as a global icon today and is loved all the way from Japan to the Gulf.
Oysters Rockefeller
Oysters & Pork Belly Tacos
Louisiana Loves the Oyster. But Why? Few places love oysters quite like Louisiana, especially New Orleans. But why? The love for oysters mostly stems from the geography. With fertile oyster beds all around, the state has long enjoyed a steady supply of fresh, flavorful oysters; however, it’s more than just proximity to the Gulf’s oyster beds. Access alone doesn’t explain the passion. When it comes to this region, oysters can be seen as a celebration of heritage and community, but they are also downright delicious. During the early days, Native Americans harvested the briny gems, while spice and soul were added later by the French, Spanish, and Creoles. One group who truly made a lasting impact towards Louisiana’s love of oysters were Croatian immigrants, who have been coming to the area from primarily the Dalmatia region of Croatia since before the Civil War and who have made significant contributions to the state’s oyster industry.
With all of these contributions, oysters have danced their way onto plates in every form imaginable in Louisiana. Whether freshly shucked at a lively neighborhood joint or stacked high in a crispy po-boy, oysters have been the life of the party for a very long time.
Louisiana’s oyster game is a blend of tradition and innovation. Take the legendary Oysters Rockefeller, created in 1899 by Jules Alciatore at Antoine’s Restaurant. These oysters are crowned with a secret, lush, green herb sauce and broiled to golden glory. The dish was named for the famously wealthy John D. Rockefeller, because these babies are rich in flavor.
Jump ahead to the 1990s and you’ll find Tommy Cvitanovich of Drago’s Seafood Restaurant, who sparked a craze with his invention of charbroiled oysters. While his credit as founder has been debated by some, one must admit that Drago’s is still the go-to popular choice for many when seeking the original version of that dish. The Gulf oysters, grilled in their shells and drenched in garlicky butter, herbs, and a shower of Parmesan cheese, has sizzled its way to becoming a favorite dish served at restaurants all across Greater New Orleans.
New Orleans oysters come raw and fresh, leading to several oyster shuckers reaching local fame around the city. For that fried to crispy perfection, restaurants such as Deanie’s and Acme Oyster House have become popular staples. You can also find oysters baked into creamy Creole casseroles, swimming in soulful gumbo and oyster stew, and even served as shooters during happy hours. Each oyster dish tells a story, inviting everyone, locals and visitors alike, to dive into the flavors, history, and downright fun that makes Louisiana’s oyster scene a true treasure.
At The Heart of The Half Shell
At the end of the day, oysters in Louisiana aren’t just about what’s on your plate. They connect us to the water that surrounds us and to the generations who came before. Whether you’re savoring a raw oyster with a squeeze of lemon, biting into a buttery charbroiled masterpiece, or sharing a po-boy with friends on a warm afternoon, you’re partaking in a tradition that’s as rich and layered as the shells themselves. It’s this history that keeps the oyster at the heart of Louisiana’s culinary culture.
Efforts to protect and restore oyster reefs ensure that this beloved shellfish will continue to thrive for future generations to enjoy. So the next time you crack open that glistening shell, remember that you’re not just eating seafood—you are enjoying and tasting a legacy. In Louisiana, oysters aren’t just food, they’re a way of life, and a delicious invitation to celebrate all that makes this region uniquely vibrant.
Chargrilled Oysters
Cajun Fried Oyster Salad
Oysters on the Half Shell
ND
2
HELPING
Elizabeth’s Restaurant
By Kim Ranjbar
Revisiting local restaurants that I covered years ago to see what’s changed, or what’s deliciously stayed the same.
Always hungry for affordable experiences and new flavors to share, I pulled off the dazzling feat of dining at more than 700 New Orleans-area restaurants over the years. It’s a lifetime achievement I’ll happily brag about, and now, at last, I have that opportunity.
On the corner of Chartres and Gallier streets stands Elizabeth’s Restaurant, a tall, two-story building painted with vintage signage advertising bygone local products Regal Beer and almond-flavored soft drink Dr. Nut, as well as touting “Fresh Seafood Daily.” In 1998, South Carolina-born chef Heidi Trull opened the Bywater neighborhood spot with the intention of serving “real food done real good” at an affordable price in a laid-back, unpretentious atmosphere.
After graduating from the culinary arts school at Johnson and Wales in Charleston, Trull honed her craft working in fine dining kitchens such as the Ritz Carlton in St. Louis, Elizabeth on 37th in Savannah, and Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant Emeril’s NOLA. Inspired to open her own place, she wanted to offer a restaurant for everyone, serving staple local dishes such as grits and grillades, poboys, and old-fashioned calas, all at a budget-friendly price. Elizabeth’s began as a closely-guarded secret amongst hungry locals but grew to be a wildly successful restaurant as more and more savvy visitors discovered the Bywater gem.
In the spring of 2005, Trull decided to start a family and sold Elizabeth’s to innkeepers Floyd McLamb and Stuart Anthony. The duo renovated the building’s unused second story, adding another dining room and bar, but their future plans for the restaurant were unrealized when Hurricane Katrina struck and devastated the city.
Today, Elizabeth’s is owned by Chef Bryon Peck, a graduate of the California Culinary Institute who started working with Heidi Trull at the neighborhood gem almost since its inception. To this day, Peck still honors Trull’s vision, retaining numerous dishes from the original menu, from their renowned praline bacon to the bayou breakfast with fried catfish and eggs.
In my first year of Where Y’at’s “$15 & Under” column nearly 14 years ago, I waxed poetically about “the Blessed Biscuit”—a Southern breakfast staple often found on my family’s kitchen table. Though it’s doubtful any restaurant will ever be able to replicate the soft, flaky biscuits made with a lifetime of skill and big handfuls of love by my great aunt Edie, the buttermilk biscuits served with a savory sausage gravy at Elizabeth’s certainly will come close.
In successive visits over a decade ago, we explored over half the menu, delighting in a cornbread waffle piled high with sweet potato hash pan fried with duck confit and housemade pepper
jelly, gobbled a “redneck” version of eggs Benedict with poached eggs and hollandaise resting atop crisply battered and fried green tomatoes, and dug into a fully dressed fried oyster po-boy served with sweet potato fries.
As it is so often said, “The only constant in life is change,” and things have certainly changed at Elizabeth’s over the years. The exterior has acquired heavier decoration, with colorful signage touting everything from Elizabeth’s signature praline bacon, which still rocks, by the way, and our city’s famed lost bread, a.k.a. pain perdu, to red beans and rice. In fact, the “Elizabeth’s” sign hanging above the front door has been re-lettered with larger print that includes the restaurant’s iconic slogan and, for a while, a swinging bewinged piglet.
The restaurant had also eliminated their dinner menu almost entirely. However, luckily, they will be bringing back their dinner, with the addition of happy hour, starting on September 25, making their new Thursday, Friday, and Saturday hours 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Additionally, they are open every day of the week for breakfast and lunch from 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Favorite menu items from the past are often resurrected as specials handwritten on a large chalkboard that changes regularly. Recent comebacks include a Creole version of British staple bubble and squeak made with sautéed cabbage, Louisiana shrimp, and hog jowls topped with poached eggs and hollandaise.
Chef Peck will also use the chalkboard specials to introduce new flavors to “Elizabethans,” dyedin-the-wool regulars, including housemade potato chips with blue cheese sauce, shrimp ceviche with a jalapeño lime broth, and crawfish and shrimpstacked fried green tomatoes topped off with a fried soft shell crab.
While change is always invigorating, there’s a lot to be said for what stays the same. Elizabeth’s still serves fried chicken livers with pepper jelly, as well as old fashioned calas—our city’s beloved, and almost lost, fried rice fritters—drizzled with Steen’s Cane Syrup—items that harken back to Chef Trull’s original menu.
The restaurant remains both a neighborhood gem and touristy brunch hotspot where visitors sit at mismatched tables draped in gaudy, colorful tablecloths— decor all too apropos for Maw-Maw’s kitchen—sipping Pimm’s Cups or pineapple jalapeño margaritas from plastic tumblers and sharing plates of fried boudin balls or pecan pie.
Elizabeth’s has staked a claim in the hearts of locals and visitors, a restaurant that’s survived Hurricane Katrina, as well as the pandemic shutdowns, and that’s still serving “real food, done real good” at blessedly affordable prices. It’s up to us to ensure the landmark Bywater restaurant remains part of our cityscape for as long as possible, so go get you some while the getting’s still good.
Cajun Oyster
TEAM PABST ALWAYS A WINNER
NO BBQ SAUCE NEEDED
NO BBQ SAUCE NEEDED
The Origin of New Orleans Style
Barbecue Shrimp
The Origin of New Orleans Style Barbecue Shrimp
By Rebecca Fox
If you’ve ever heard a tourist ordering a barbecued shrimp po-boy, you’ve probably seen them be equally as shocked when their order arrived.
Imagine that, while dining, you overheard a table full of folks from Atlanta having a panicked conversation in whispers wondering if their order was incorrect and if they should take lactose intolerance medication.
Let’s be honest, the name is misleading. “Barbecue shrimp” conjures up images of a backyard barbecue or a smoky red sauce sitting next to a skewered shrimp on a grill, so to then be served shrimp—often with heads attached—in a bath of butter is a surprise to say the least. So why not call them something different? Where did “barbecue shrimp” come from as an idea, how did it become a NOLA menu staple, and how has it evolved into what we know it as now?
Most people agree that the original barbecue shrimp was launched at Pascal’s Manale in the 1950s. Manale’s also set the standard for “red gravy,” the New Orleans version of tomato pasta sauce.
Director of Sales and Marketing for Pascal’s Manale Lindsay Ross said, “Frank Manale, a Sicilian immigrant, founded Manale’s restaurant as a bar and sandwich shop staffed by his nephews and family members. After his death in 1937, his nephew, Pascal Radosta, took over the establishment, changing it to Pascal’s Manale Restaurant.” According to their website, Pascal’s Manale had been owned by the DeFelice family for over 100 years, until it was bought by Jessica and Ray Brandt before his passing in 2019. Now, restaurateurs Dickie Brennan and Lauren Brennan Brower, as well as Steve Pettus, own the restaurant.
As to the history of barbecue shrimp, there are, unsurprisingly, multiple versions of the origin story. Allegedly, according to local lore, a customer returned from a trip in 1953 to Chicago where he had tried a buttery shrimp dish and asked the chef to recreate it. Some people will tell you it was New York, and not Chicago, but a 1989 Times Picayune article by Gene Bourg named this traveler with exceptional taste buds as Jimmy Sutro. According to a cookbook history of Pascal’s Manale by Poppy Tooker, Pascal Radosta created the dish in 1954. Regardless of the inspiration, there is no question that the dish originated in the Manale kitchen and has been on the menu ever since, migrating to over one hundred other restaurants and to kitchens all across South Louisiana and beyond.
No one can really agree on what the best recipe is. Many argue about whether it’s butter or margarine or a margarine and oil combination, whether or not to add beer or wine, and how much of each spice should be included, the common spices used being black pepper, cayenne pepper, paprika, salt, thyme, oregano, basil, and rosemary—depending on who trained your chef. In her cookbook Pascal’s Manale Cookbook: A Family Tradition, which you can find at poppytooker.com, Tooker makes several delicious attempts to recreate the original recipes.
A thread on TripAdvisor is torn about folks’ other local favorites, with the front-runners being not only Pascal’s Manale, but also Deanie’s and Mr. B’s, in no particular order. Other similar sites include positive rankings for Brigtsen’s, Liuzza’s by the Track, Drago’s, and Oceana Grill. In almost every thread, visitors are confused about why the shrimp are not barbecued. Interestingly enough, they almost always seem to assume that they are spicy, as well, and are surprised when they aren’t. Ironically, Pascal’s Manale's website describes them as being served in a “spicy and tangy sauce.” Though most agree that pepper is an important component regardless of which recipe you’re using, many use nothing with a spicy component other than a bit of Tabasco and cayenne. It’s interesting how every lo-
cal that was asked about their own recipe for this article seems to be exceptionally secretive about the correct amount of butter they use, other than to say that it’s quite a lot.
Manager of Deanie’s Jeff Young said, “The original owner, Mr. Frank Chifici, put barbecue shrimp on the menu in 1982. His recipe is a little heavier on the basil, giving it a sweeter approach. It is served head on, so you peel the shrimp, but that makes it even better,” According to Young, “The barbecue shrimp remains one of our top three most popular dishes, and people will often come in and just ask for the sauce to take home.” Deanie’s is located at 1713 Lake Ave. in Metairie, at 2200 Magazine St. in Uptown, and at 841 Iberville St. in the French Quarter. You can find them online at deanies.com
Chef Frank Brigtsen of Brigsten’s Restaurant said, “The first time we made BBQ shrimp at K-Paul’s in 1979, Chef Paul Prudhomme explained his method to me, and I said,
‘My best friend’s mom, Gloria Cristina, puts rosemary in hers.’ Chef [Prudhomme] said, ‘Rosemary? With shrimp? She must be a good cook. Let’s try it.’ It’s now a common ingredient for many versions of the dish. We serve ours with a savory shrimp calas, a rice fritter that pays homage to African Creole culture in New Orleans.” You can try Chef Brigtsen’s at 723 Dante St., and the full menu is available at brigtsens.com
Regardless of which restaurant you choose to indulge in this sloppy mound of deliciousness, make sure to get extra napkins. One thing remains a mystery—the name. According to lore, the dish was originally dubbed barbecue shrimp because the shrimp turn a darker pink color and it reminded someone of the hue of barbecue sauce. While it would be wise to rename it, or at the very least describe it better on menus, for now it remains New Orleans’ most delicious misnomer.
MUSIC CALENDAR
MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22
30/90 Piano Man G
AllWays Lounge Betsy Propane
Apple Barrel Mark Appleford
BJ’s Alex McMurray
Bacchanal Byron Asher
Bamboula’s Jon Roniger
Bourbon Orleans Kid Merv
Buffa’s David Doucet
Capulet T Marie & Bayou Juju
Crescent City Brewhouse New Orleans
Streetbeat
Da Jump Off Lounge Big 6 Brass Band
Dos Jefes John Fohl
Fritzel’s Richard Scott
Gasa Gasa Kissing Disease
MRB Ben Buchbinder
Mahogany Jazz Hall Tuxedo Jazz Band
No Dice House & Home
Polo Club David Boeddinghaus
Preservation Hall Preservation Brass Band
St Roch Tavern Grady Philip Drugg
The Maison Leo Forde
Tipitina’s Mdou Moctar
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23
21st Amendment Big Mike
30/90 Higher Heights
Buffa’s Alex McMurray
Bamboula’s Giselle Anguizola
Capulet Washboard Chaz
Chickie Wah Wah Rose City
Crescent City Brewhouse New Orleans
Streetbeat
Davenport Lounge Jeremy Davenport
Gasa Gasa Sinkane
Hotel Monteleone James Martin
J’s Place New Groove
Lobby Lounge Raphael Bas
MRB Lynn Drury
Mahalia Jackson Theater John Cleese
Mahogany Jazz Hall Paul Longstreth
Maison Bourbon Leroy Marshall
Marigny Brasserie Legacy Jazz
New Orleans Jazz Market Walter Trout
New Orleans Jazz National Park Michael Harris
Orpheum Lake Street Dive
Picnic Provisions Mikayla Braun
CHANCE THE RAPPER AT FILLMORE NEW ORLEANS
Chance the Rapper is bringing his “And We Back” tour to New Orleans’ Fillmore. Chart-topping and Grammywinning, he has earned his place as one of the biggest names in hip hop today.
Saturday, September 27, 7 p.m., $71-$389.40, fillmorenola.com
Preservation Hall Preservation All-Stars
Saenger Vampire Weekend
Santos Children of Judas
Snug Harbor Delfeayo Marsalis
Southport Oceano
Spotted Cat Shotgun Jazz Band
The Jazz Playhouse Big Sam’s Funky Nation
Tipitina’s MIRADOR
Tropical Isle Dave Ferrato
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25
30/90 Soul Tribe
Capulet Lady O
Crescent City Brewhouse New Orleans
StreetBeat
Gasa Gasa Hotel Burgundy
Kermit’s Lounge Irvin Mayfield
Le Bon Temps Roule Allie Willis
Mahogany Jazz Hall Big Joe Kennedy
New Orleans Jazz Historic Park Arrowhead
No Dice Desire
Polo Club John Royen
Saenger Alabama Shakes
Salon Salon Geovane Santos
Secret Location on Canal Street Radiohead
Siberia Panama Papers
Smoothie King Center Hozier
Spotted Cat Smoking Time
The Jazz Playhouse Amber Rachelle
The Maison Jacky Blaire
The Rabbit Hole Rebirth
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24
30/90 Dapper Dandies
Bacchanal Jesse Morrow
Bamboula John Saavedra
Banks St. Mia Borders
Bourbon Orleans Serabee
Bratz Y’all Johnny J
Buffa’s Chip Wilson
Cafe Negril Jam-ilton
BJ’s Crybabies
Bacchanal Raphael Bas
Bamboula’s Cristina Kaminis
Bayou Bar Cryptic
Blue Nile Irvin Mayfield
Bourbon Orleans Audrey & The CrawZaddies
Buffa’s Tom McDermot
Cafe Negril Armani Smith
Capulet Dylan Decker
Carousel Bar Leslie Martin
Chickie Wah Wah Robyn Hitchcock
City Park Fleurtations
Davenport Lounge Jeremy Davenport
Fillmore Malcolm Todd
Fritzel’s Doyle Cooper
Gasa Gasa What The Dance
House of Blues Tony Seville
Le Bon Temps Roule Soul Rebels
MRB Micah McKee
Mahalia Jackson Theater Raphael Saadiq
Mahogany Jazz Hall New Orleans Catahoulas
Marigny Brasserie Legacy Jazz Band
Mid City Lanes Rock n Bowl Horace Trahan
New Orleans Jazz Market Walter Trout Band
New Orleans Jazz Historic Park Victor Campbell
No Dice Diles Que No Me Maten
Orpheum Jake Landry
Peacock Room Da Lovebirds
Pirogue’s VetJams
Polo Club John Royen
Preservation Hall Preservation All-Stars
Salon Salon Nat & Kat
Cafe Negril Jamey St. Pierre
Cafe Nola Neicy B
Carousel Bar Nayo Jones
Carrollton Station Juno Dunes
Chickie Wah Wah Shinyribs
Crescent City Brewhouse New Orleans Streetbeat
Davenport Lounge Jeremy Davenport
Dos Jefes Afrodiziac’s Jazz
Fillmore Donald Harison Jr. Fritzel’s Woodis
Galvez House Sariyah Idan
Gasa Gasa Sweet Crude
Holy Diver The Ladies Of…
Hey Thanks
Smoothie King Center Marco Antonio Solís
Snug Harbor Judith Owen
Spotted Cat Dirty Tuba
The AllWays Lounge David Bode
The Broadside Louie Lou Louis
The Columns Hotel River Eckert
The Maison Shotgun Jazz Band
The Press Room Shovaly Plus
Snug Harbor Rex Gregory
The AllWays Lounge Ronchanique Joseph
The Maison Single Malt Please
Tropical Isle Mark Barrett
Vaughan’s Corey Henry
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26
21st Amendment Dominick Grillo
30/90 Big Mike
BJ’s Little Freddie King
Bacchanal David Sigler
Bamboula’s Midnight Brawlers
Banks St. Blind Texas Marlin
Bayou Bar Oh Yeah!
Blue Nile Strange Roux
Bourbon Orleans April Spain
Bourbon Street Honky Tonk Bad Sandys
Buffa’s Adam Rogers
Cafe Istanbul PREMONITION
House of Blues Jake Landry, Eric Johnson
Jazz & Blues Market John Pizzarelli
Jimmy’s Music Club Mustache
Le Bon Temps Roule Billy’s Third Dessert
Lobby Lounge Raphael Bas
MRB Carson Station
Mahalia Jackson Theater Chris D’elia
Mahogany Jazz Hall Leroy Jones
Maison Bourbon Leroy Marshall
Maple Leaf Johnny Sketch
Marigny Brasserie No Drama
Mid City Lanes Rock n Bowl Rouge Krewe
New Orleans Jazz Market John Pizzarelli
New Orleans Jazz Museum Patrice Fisher
New Orleans Jazz Historic Park Saskia Walker
No Dice Bambara, Malice K
Okay Bar TV Poleshine
Orpheum Big Freedia, LPO
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27
21st Amendment Jerry Dugger
30/90 Organami
Apple Barrel Smoky Greenwell
Aycock Barn Irene Sage
Atchafalaya James Andrews
BJ’s BrasiNola
Bacchanal Miles Berry
Bamboula’s Aaron Levinson
Banks Street Airshow
Batture Micah McKee
Bayou Bar Band for Life
Beanlandia T Marie
Blue Nile George Brown
Bourbon Orleans Blues Masters
Buffa’s Belinda Moody
Bywater Bakery Kyle Roussel
Cafe Negril Dr. Sick
Polo Club Nell Simmons Bradley Pour House Silver & Slim Preservation Hall Mark Braud Press Room Or Shovaly Plus Santos
Carrollton Station Zita & Friends
Chickie Wah Wah James McMurtry
Clesi’s Mike Doussan
Courtyard Brewery Sariyah Idan
Crescent City Brewhouse New Orleans
Streetbeat
D.B.A. Tuba Skinny
Davenport Lounge Jeremy Davenport
Dew Drop Inn Legends of the Dew Drop
Domino Lounge Fake Last Name
Fillmore Chance the Rapper
Fritzel’s Chuck Brackman
Gasa Gasa Teen Suicide
George’s Auditorium Elijah Hartman
Holmes Sam Friend
Holy Diver Rare Seed
House of Blues Peach Pit
Igor’s Checkpoint Charlie’s Jamie Lynn Vessels
Kermit’s Lounge Kermit Ruffins
Kerry Pub Patrick Cooper
Le Bon Temps Roule Cardboard Cowboy
MRB Washboard Chaz Blues
Mahalia Jackson Theater LPO
Mahogany Jazz Hall Gerald French
Maison Bourbon Leroy Marshall
Maple Leaf Amis du Teche
Marigny Brasserie No Drama
Mid-City Lanes Rock n Bowl Few Blue
NOLA Brewing Little Freddie King
New Orleans Jazz Historic Park Margie Perez
No Dice Sinister
Orpheum Slick Skillet Serenaders
Polo Club John Royen
Preservation Hall Wendell Brunious Press Room Or Shovaly Plus Saturn Bar Cruise Control
Empire of the Sun is stopping at Mahalia Jackson Theater on their “Ask That God” tour. Alternative, indie, and upbeat, Empire of the Sun will keep the summer vibes going well into the fall.
Monday, October 6, 8 p.m., $60-$359, mahaliajacksontheater.com
| 4PM-6PM
MUSIC CALENDAR
The Jazz Playhouse Richard Scott
The Press Room Shovaly Plus
The Rabbit Hole Beach Angel
Toulouse Theatre Frogs Gone Fishin’
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 5
Atchafalaya Grayson Capps
BJ’s James McClaskey
Bacchanal Noah Young
Bombay Club T Marie
Bourbon Street Honky Tonk Bad Sandys
Buffa’s Old Souls
Bywater Bakery John Boutté
Church at Hotel Peter & Paul Chelsea Hines
Gazebo Café J Riley Cain
Gretna Downtown Trombone Shorty
Holy Diver Blushakur
Joy Mojo Brookz
Maple Leaf Higher Ground
Marigny Brasserie Secret Bandwagon
New Orleans Jazz Market Lisa Fischer
New Orleans Lakefront Tonya Boyd-Cannon
Radians Tyler Childers
Santos Oxys
Snug Harbor Donald Harrison
The Howlin Wolf Hot 8 Brass Band
The Jazz Playhouse Richard Scott
Treme Hideaway Big 6 Brass Band
MONDAY, OCTOBER 6
Apple Barrel Mark Appleford
Capulet Phil deGruy
Da Jump Off Lounge Big 6 Brass Band
Fillmore Anderson Paak
Holy Diver Cast of Thousands
House of Blues Ocean Alley
Kermit’s Lounge BBQ Swingers
Mahalia Jackson Theater Empire of the Sun
Maple Leaf George Porter Jr.
The AllWays Lounge Bella Joan
The Den Andrea’s False Consciousness
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7
Ellis Marsalis Center Lil’ Glenn
Marigny Opera House Michael Watson
Spotted Cat Smoking Time
The Rabbit Hole Rebirth
WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 8
Capulet Daphne Parker Powell
Chickie Wah Wah Jon Cleary
Jazz & Blues Market Sugaray Rayford
Jefferson Perf Arts Center Lyle Lovett
Lobby Lounge Raphael Bas
New Orleans Jazz Market Sugaray Rayford
New Orleans Jazz Museum DPRAM
Spotted Cat Shotgun Jazz Band
Toulouse Theatre La Lom
Tropical Isle Dave Ferrato
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 9
Abita New Orleans Jenavieve & The Winding
Boys
Capulet Mia Borders
Gasa Gasa ANIKA
House of Blues Tony Seville
Jazz & Blues Market Yellowjackets
Le Bon Temps Roulé Soul Rebels
New Orleans Jazz Market Yellowjackets
Orpheum Silver Lining Serenaders
The AllWays Lounge CabaRAVE
The Rabbit Hole Thot Squad
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 10
Abita Springs Trailhead Amanda Shaw, Laine Bleu
Arora Montcyler
Bacchanal David Sigler
Bourbon Street Honky Tonk Bad Sandys
Buffa’s Adam Rogers
Cafe Nola Neicy B
Chickie Wah Wah Tyler Halverson
House of Blues Layla Musselwhite
Jefferson Perf Arts Center Black Jacket
Symphony
Joy Japanese Breakfast
Lafayette Square Tab Benoit
Lobby Lounge Raphael Bas
New Orleans Jazz Market Yellowjackets
New Orleans Jazz Museum Javier Olondo
No Dice Guerilla Toss
Spotted Cat Paradise
Jazz Band
The Broadside Dave
Jordan
The Hangar Mood Lab
The Press Room
Shovaly Plus
The Rabbit Hole
THOT SQUAD
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 11
Abita Springs Trailhead Ben Redwine
ARORA Maddy
O’Neal
Apple Barrel Smoky Greenwell
Buffa’s Bruno
Elisabetsky
Chickie Wah Wah
Papa Mall
D.B.A. Dwayne
Dopsie
Lafayette Square
Leo Nocentelli
Le Bon Temps
Roule Slugger
New Orleans Jazz Market Grace Kelly
Press Room Or Shovaly Plus
Smoothie King Center Suicideboys
Spotted Cat Shake ‘Em Up Jazz Band
The Press Room Shovaly Plus
Tulane University Caity Gyorgy
$UICIDEBOY$ AT SMOOTHIE KING CENTER
Hailing from NOLA, hip hop group $uicideboy$ are returning to their home city with a performance at the Smoothie King Center. The group combines elements of rap and hardcore to produce a unique, apocalyptic sound.
Saturday, October 11, 6:30 p.m., $66.85$559.65, smoothiekingcenter.com
9/25 11pm Soul Rebels
9/26 11pm Billy’s Third Dessert
9/27 11pm Cardboard Cowboy
9/30 7pm Allie Willis & Will Smith
10/2 11pm Smoker’s World
10/3 11pm Strange Roux
10/4 11pm Joey Houck
10/9 11 pm Soul Rebels
10/11 11pm Slugger
10/16 11pm Soul Rebels
10/17 11pm Half Dollar Rodeo
10/23 11pm Soul Rebels
10/24 11pm Pocket Chocolate
10/25 11pm Chirp
10/30 11pm Soul Rebels
10/31 11pm Colin Davis & Night People
11/1 11pm Bearded Chieftains
KITCHEN OPEN WED–SUN 11AM–8PM
LAKESIDE2RIVERSIDE
KIMBERLY AKIMBO AT SAENGER NEW ORLEANS
October 7-12 | saengernola.com/events/kimberly-akimbo Head out to the Saenger Theatre and enjoy Kimberly Akimbo, which won the 2023 Tony Award for Best Musical. The show, which is based on the play of the same name by David LindsayAbaire, focuses on Kimberly Levaco, a teenage girl who suffers from a condition that causes her to rapidly age. The show is both whimsical and pointed, while also showcasing quirky humor with a bit of social satire. With a score by Jeanine Tesori, this musical will leave you amused and moved. Tickets start at $29.85. Visit the Saenger’s website for more information for times and tickets.
NOLAxNOLA
September 25 to October 5 | neworleans.com/nolaxnola
With more than 300 shows at 50+ venues, the fifth annual NOLAxNOLA is taking over New Orleans from September 25 to October 5, 2025. Whatever genre is your jam, NOLAxNOLA is bringing you the best of local and national talent for a music extravaganza like no other. Check out some of the best venues the Crescent City has to offer such as the Orpheum Theater and Toulouse Theatre, and dance the night away to the sound of beloved artists and rising stars including Big Freedia and Cha Wa. Stay tuned on NOLAxNOLA’s socials for updates on venues, artists, and special bonuses.
ARTS DISTRICT NEW ORLEANS’ ART FOR ARTS’ SAKE
October 4 | artsdistrictneworleans.com
The Arts District New Orleans will be presenting its annual Art for Arts’ Sake, which is a celebration of New Orleans’ local arts scene. Taking place every year on the first Saturday in October, this event allows people to take in and ponder the dynamic art that will be on display at the Arts District New Orleans’ participating galleries. The event was first founded in 1980 by the Contemporary Arts Center New Orleans and has been presented by the Arts District since the early ‘90s. Visit Arts District New Orleans’ website for a full list of participating galleries.
DANCE THEATER OF HARLEM
October 11 | nobadance.com
The New Orleans Ballet Association (NOBA) will be hosting the Dance Theater of Harlem (DTH) on October 11, 2025. Inclusive, innovative, and vibrant, DTH was founded by Arthur Mitchel over 55 years ago and puts a modern spin on classical techniques. Included in DTH’s showcase will be works by George Balanchine, William Forsythe, Jodie Gates, and Robert Garland. DTH continues to prove that classical ballet is relevant, flexible, and, most importantly, a space where all perspectives are explored. DTH’s performance will take place at 7:30 p.m. at the Mahalia Jackson Theater. Tickets are on sale now.
FALL FESTIVAL GUIDE
INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL
Sept. 25-28 | Multiple Locations, iafnola.com
Presented by Gem Water Management Solutions, the International Arts Festival invites delegates from 20+ nations to teach attendees about community. The festival features international food vendors, arts and crafts, and business forums. The 2025 lineup of performers includes Steel Pulse, Pieces of a Dream, Gerald Albright, and Chief Donald Harrison Jr. Tickets range from around $53-$180, depending on the package.
NOLAxNOLA Festival is celebrating five years with shows at New Orleans’ most memorable music venues. The festival is inviting artists such as Big Freedia, Kermit Ruffins, and many more to perform at more than 30 local bars and clubs, including Bywater Bakery, the Fillmore, and Toulouse Theater. Tickets are available at the door for each show.
BLACK AMERICANA FEST
Sept. 26 & 27 | The Broadside, blackamericanafest.com
The BlackAmericana Fest delves into the history of Black Americana music, which is a mix of traditional African American music, blues, folk, and country. This festival’s theme is showcasing the untold stories of Black Americana music. The lineup of artists embodies this theme, with performances by Don Flemons, the Suffers, and more. Weekend passes cost around $37 per person.
GRETNA HERITAGE FESTIVAL
Oct. 3-5 | Historic Old Gretna, gretnafest.com
The Gretna Heritage Festival spans over 20 blocks in Gretna. The celebration honors the city’s diverse culture. The festival will feature tons of music by the likes of Sam Hunt and Natasha Bedingfield, a craft beer area, artist village, and kids’ corner. Tickets for Gretna Fest cost between $45 and $55 for general admission and $100 for a weekend wristband.
Take a road trip over to Memphis, TN, for this year’s Mempho Music Festival, which will be held at the city’s Radians Amphitheater. This musical lineup is stacked and features the likes of Galactic, Widespread Panic, Father John Misty, the Flaming Lips, and many more talented artists. GA and VIP tickets, as well as student and military tickets, are available.
BOGALUSA BLUES & HERITAGE FESTIVAL
Sept. 26 & 27 | Cassidy Park, Bogalusa, bogalusablues.com/info
The Bogalusa Blues & Heritage Festival is a two-day celebration of Bogalusa’s best blues players. The lineup of blues musicians includes Chris Thomas King, Vasti Jackson, the Highway Miles Band, and more. Along with great performances, the festival hosts an annual 5K run through Cassidy Park. Tickets begin at $15, with camping packages available for those interested.
OLD ARABI SUGAR FEST
Sept. 27 | The Aycock Barn, Arabi, oldarabi.org/sugarfest
Head out to Old Arabi and take part in this year’s Old Arabi Sugar Fest. Taking place at the Aycock Barn from noon to 7 p.m. on September 27, this free festival will feature a donut eating contest, a dessert baking competition, bus tours of Old Arabi, and live music by Irene Sage, Eric Bolivar, and more.
NOLA COFFEE FESTIVAL
Oct. 3 & 4 | Pontchartrain Convention and Civic Center nolacoffeefestival.com
The NOLA Coffee Festival celebrates New Orleans’ lengthy coffee history, attracting coffee drinkers and industry professionals. The two-day event features barista courses, roasting classes, and, of course, live music. The festival welcomes over 50 exhibitors and instructors, from local coffee roasters to international café farmers. General admission tickets start at $25, and VIP packages are also available.
53rd ANNUAL GEM AND MINERAL SHOW
Oct. 3-5 | Alario Center, Westwego gmsofla.org/events/2025-show
Hosted by the Gem and Mineral Society of Louisiana, this annual show gathers collectors and gemologists from across the state. 27 gem and mineral vendors are participating in the festival and will be showing off their best lapidary crafts. Visitors can travel through the collections of booths while watching artists cut gems, create jewelry, and open geodes.
Head on out to Violet, LA, and take part in this year’s Blues, Brews, + BBQ festival. This free, family-friendly event will feature talented blues musicians, cold brews, and mouthwatering BBQ. All proceeds from the festival will go towards the Community Center of St. Bernard and its programs towards supporting its community. Attendees can bring portable chairs to this fest.
FEDERALES FESTIVAL
Oct. 4 | Live Oak at Cedar Lodge, Baton Rouge, federalesfest.com
Returning for its third year, Federales Festival brings grit and grooves to Baton Rouge. This year’s musical lineup includes acts such as George Porter Jr., Sam Murrow, Paul Cauthen, and many more. Expect cold drinks, Southern-inspired food, and good times. General admission tickets at $75, while VIP admission is $250 and includes complementary food, drinks, and premium performance views.
The Deutsches Haus is bringing Germany to the Gulf Coast with Oktoberfest 2025. The autumnal celebration features a 6K race, a beer stein-holding contest, an oompah band, and a dancing chicken. It wouldn’t be Oktoberfest without German cuisine and drinks, and the Deutsches Haus will serve bratwursts, pretzels, over 20 different types of beer, and more. Admission to Oktoberfest is $10.
NATIONAL FRIED CHICKEN FESTIVAL
Oct. 4 & 5 | New Orleans Lakefront, friedchickenfestival.com
The National Fried Chicken Festival is a multi-day event that highlights the art of frying chicken. The festival kicks off with a 5K run and a Kids Fun Run. More than 40 restaurants will serve delicious bites, and over 50 musicians, including Blanco Brown and Sugarhill Gang, will take the stage to perform. General admission cost around $20 for single-day entry.
Abita Springs is marking the beginning of autumn with its annual Fall Festival. Known for its breweries, Abita Springs is bringing its brews and booze to its autumn festivities. The festival has a wine garden and daiquiri den, along with Abita beer on tap. The festival also has caricature drawing, henna tattooing, and airbrushing. General admission costs $25.
From the organizers of Jazz Fest, the Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival brings together the likes of Bobby Rush, Leo Nocentelli, and more on two stages. Artists will sell handmade pieces, and local BBQ joints will be serving up regional variations for meat lovers, vegetarians, and vegans. Admission is free, but VIP packages are also available.
FALL FESTIVAL
FESTIVALS ACADIENS ET CRÉOLES
Oct. 10-12 | Girard Park, Lafayette festivalsacadiens.com
Festivals Acadiens et Créoles pays homage to the traditional culture of Acadiana. Attendees can enjoy tastes of delicious Cajun and Creole dishes. Festival organizers are also coordinating a 6K, 9K, and duathlon as a way to give back to the local community. Entrance to the festival is free, and registration for any of the three races starts at $40.
FIESTA FILIPINA
GENTILLY FESTIVAL
Oct. 10-12 | Pontchartrain Park, gentillyfestival.com
The Gentilly Festival focuses on all things “Gentilly.” The festival caters to both children and adults, with dedicated areas for each. Children can visit the Kids’ Village for face painting, pottery making, and gardening crafts. Adults can purchase food and arts and crafts from popular vendors, including Southern Solace, Chef Avis, and Sweet Potato Cafe.
Oct. 11 | Los Isleños Museum Complex, St. Bernard, Facebook
Celebrate Filipino culture at the Los Isleños Museum Complex at Fiesta Filipina 2025. This event is free and open to the public and will feature Filipino food from vendors such as Cebu Liston and Grill, as well as music, dance, and cultural exhibits. Fiesta Filipina will run from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on October 11.
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP GUMBO COOKOFF
Oct. 11 & 12 | Downtown New Iberia, iberiachamber.org/gumbocookoff
The World Championship Gumbo Cookoff invites 100 teams to compete for the title of champion and for bragging rights. The free two-day event consists of non-stop competition divided into six categories: Amateur Chicken and Sausage, Amateur Seafood, Amateur Mélange, Professional Seafood, and Professional Non-Seafood. Around 30,000 attendees can sample the various gumbos while enjoying live music.
NORTHSHORE BEER FESTIVAL
Oct. 12 | Mandeville Trailhead, miracleleaguenorthshore.org/northshorebeerfestival Returning for its second year, the Northshore Beer Festival will host over 400 local brewers and beer aficionados. In addition to providing locally sourced brews, the festival features food trucks, craft vendors, and live music. For the kiddos, festival organizers created a new Kids Zone. Tickets for the festival start at $72, and all proceeds support the Miracle League Northshore.
The Natchez Balloon Festival is returning for its 40th year. Balloon flights and races will take place, with attendees watching below. The event doubles as an arts & crafts fair where artists can showcase their talents. The festival also has carnival rides, food vendors, and musical performances. General admission starts at $10 but varies depending on the day of attendance.
NOLA FUNK FEST
Oct. 17-19 | Spanish Plaza, nolafunkfest.com
NOLA Funk Fest originates from the Louisiana Music & Heritage Experience’s mission to preserve music history. Over 20 artists are scheduled to perform at the fest, including Master P as the festival’s headliner. Other big names include Big Sam’s Funky Nation, Dumpstaphunk, and Cyril Neville. Single-day admission for locals costs about $46, but different packages are also
Marschallin
DIALOGUES DES CARMÉLITES performed in the HISTORIC URSULINE CONVENT
DER ROSENKAVALIER directed by Olivier nominee MELLY STILL with AMANDA MAJESKI as the Marschallin
PILGRIMAGE by Carlisle Floyd in celebration of the composer’s centenary | SHOW BOAT IN CONCERT on a cruise of the Mississippi River GOLDA SCHULTZ IN RECITAL ...and more special guests to be announced
FALL FESTIVAL GUIDE
available.
PRAISE FESTIVAL ON THE BAYOU
Oct. 17-19 | Bayou St. John, praisefestnola.com
Praise Festival brings gospel to the banks of Bayou St. John for three days of worship, prayer, and music. Organizers invite nearly 40 gospel artists to perform hymns to audiences of churches, families, community leaders, and the general public. Food and merchandise vendors will also be on site, allowing attendees to enjoy a meal without missing the worship sessions.
ROUGAROU FESTIVAL
Oct. 17-19 | Barry P. Bonvillain Civic Center, Houma, rougaroufest.org
The Rougarou Festival celebrates the legend of the rougarou, a werewolf-like creature that is said to roam the bayous of South Louisiana. The festival showcases the bayou region’s one-of-a-kind culture through its folklife village, Cajun cuisine, and Krewe Ga Rou parade. The parade features dances from the Zydeco zombies, Cajun coven, and Fifolet fairies, followed by the crowning of the Rougarou Queen.
ACADIA MUSIC FEST
Oct. 18 | Acadia Plantation Town Center, Thibodaux, acadiamusicfest.net
As Thibodaux’s largest outdoor festival, Acadia Music Fest welcomes attendees to watch performances by talented artists. This year’s music lineup features T.I., John Morgan, Dumpstaphunk, and more. The kids can enjoy their own minifestival, complete with bouncy houses, magic shows, and bungee jumping. General admission costs around $79, with the proceeds benefiting the Ben Meyer Foundation.
GULF BREW
Oct. 18 | Acadiana Center for the Arts, Lafayette acadianacenterforthearts.org/events/gulf-brew-2025
The Gulf Brew Festival is a booze-forward event that provides over 200 types of beer from local vendors. Along with its beer selections, Gulf Brew Festival has live music and yard games. The Louisiana Crafts Guild selects the best arts and crafts vendors to sell their wares. General admission starts at $40, which includes an all-you-can-sip drink package
FALL EVENTS
Market in the Park, Jesuit Bend • Sept. 20
Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church Fair • Oct. 10–12
Market in the Park, Jesuit Bend • Oct. 11
Birding Trail Opening & Community Nature Day • Oct. 11
Jesuit Bend’s Haunted Trail • Oct. 18
3rd Annual South Plaquemines YMCA Tailgate Cook-Off • Oct. 18
Barbecue Throwdown and Car Show • Oct. 18
Magnolia Blossoms of Plaquemines Pickleball Tournament • Nov. 8
Market in the Park, Jesuit Bend • Nov. 15
Plaquemines Orange Festival, Fort Jackson • Dec. 5–7
Christmas in the Park • Dec. 20
Market in the Park, Jesuit Bend • Dec. 20
For a complete of events visit PlaqueminesParishTourism.com
UNPLUGGED FALL FUN
Mindful Pastimes for Creative Expression & Inspiration this Fall
By Frances Deese
While still full of plenty of festivities and traditions, fall requires reflection on how to best embrace its slower pace. Read on for local interactive hobbies and activities to enjoy this cozy season.
Fall marks a significant but gentle shift in seasons, bringing comforting rhythms and routines. The absence of summer’s spontaneity, however, doesn’t need to mean dull days doomscrolling and searching for plans. The autumnal energy in New Orleans still invites its own abundance of new activities to explore that can spark artistic expression or inspiration.
Tactile art is a guaranteed way to wind down and engage in creativity. At The Quarter Stitch, owner Chelle Wabrek and her team are passionate about upholding their welcoming community and ability to provide guidance for a range of fellow creatives. Open since 1969, all their canvases are hand-painted and they have partnerships with local artists, including offerings from Alex Beard, Terry Gaskins, and those from Clementine Hunter’s estate. As team member Kaitie Vasquez explains, with a local focus being part of their mission, they also feature in town vendors who hand dye their yarns and threads, including Pug Ladies and Sugarplum Circus. Wabrek emphasizes how these mediums, including needlepoint and knitting, provide a “dopamine based rewards circuit,” and these hobbies can’t help but spark a positive mood.
Self labelled as “an experiment in musical architecture,” experience music and performance art in an unexpected way at Music Box Village. This space, managed by New Orleans Airlift, combines outdoor sculpture art with live performances to allow attendees to be fully immersed in an enriching experience. Their calendar provides offerings for concert-goers. Check into their open house days and special events, as well, for fun and new discoveries to be had.
To inspire a holistic, self care lifestyle, Freedom Apothecary offers all natural products and services to bring new definitions to beauty and wellness. In 2013, owner and founder Morrisa Barnes-Jenkins began hand crafting her goods after being inspired by her journey into motherhood. The shop still features her own line of in-house crafted products, amongst other brands, with their services including facials, community events, and a blend bar. Barnes-Jenkins extends the shop’s mission in empowering those who walk into that space with both knowledge and ease while incorporating these remedies into their routines.
In a city that loves its coffee, Current Crop is offering even more ways to bring elevated experiences to the everyday cup of joe. Their shop includes over 75 bean varieties with roasting stations available on site. Class offerings and workshops include brew methods, coffee cocktail teachings, and pastry pairings—all to learn more about the art of coffee. With the trend of at home coffee stations on the rise, they offer plenty of tools to equip you with your own perfect café vibes.
The instant cheer a bouquet can bring is only the beginning of creating your own floral arrangements. At The Secret Spot Flowers, located within Junebug, build your own bouquets or take a look at their creative seasonal workshops. These workshops can include Junebug serving seasonal cocktails, while some are in partnership with Independence St. Tarot. Based upon sustainable practices, owner and founder Tey Stiteler instills a welcoming atmosphere and always highlights the ethereal nature of floral arranging.
Many have come to label reading as a revolu-
tionary act, which can ring true as it’s a way to spark imaginations and is well served to carve out time for yourself and your interests. Take this solo hobby to a community space by attending a book club through the New Orleans Public Library System, which offers options to suit your schedule and genre interest. Their local author events, twice a month, are another way to embark on a literary journey.
While City Park offers much to choose from, venture to the Singing Oak, which inspires inner peace. Not far from the art museum, off the Zemurray Trail around the Big Lake, this historic oak features wind chimes all set to the pentatonic scale. This scale is in the genres of West African, New Orleans jazz, and gospel hymns, reflective of the vibrant musical history of New Orleans. Sit down to absorb the music with a moment of slow living while inviting in new richness and magic.
Perhaps one of the oldest foods known to humankind, fresh bread is beloved for a reason. Hand crafting all their loaves and with a focus on top-quality ingredients, Bellegarde Barkery champions the art of breadmaking. Their expertise lends well to their workshops, where participants can learn more about the breadmaking process, from grain choices to the best techniques. Now part of the Dickie Brennan and Co. family of restaurants, be sure to check out their new and expanded workshop and menu offerings.
Set the cellphone down and consider picking up a camera in order to explore photography and new perspectives. Offering a local network to support your ventures into this outlet is NOLA Community Printshop and Darkroom. Stop by their open shop hours or attend a monthly meeting to learn more about this collaborative group and how they are making this art medium more accessible. As a volunteer-based organization, this also represents a wonderful opportunity for further community involvement.
Enjoy the dynamic duo of milder fall weather set amongst the city’s scenic local parks. Studies have shown that nature can provide both physical and mental health benefits, including decreased stress. Build your own adventure by utilizing the park system, such as exploring Couturie Forest or Bayou Sauvage Urban National Wildlife Refuge. Appreciating nature’s beauty and gathering a group together for a hike is a way to catch up with friends and loved ones amongst a tranquil setting.
BEYOND BOOKS Interesting Things To Check-Out at Greater New Orleans Area Libraries
By Emily Hingle
Our area libraries have more than books and media available for check-out.
The New Orleans Public Library System, with 15 locations, and the Jefferson Parish Library System, with 16 locations, provide cardholders in good standing with books, documents, language learning programs, educational materials and tools, huge amounts of digital media, tutorials, and so much more.
You don’t necessarily even need to go to the library to access the digital media available in both library systems. Show and movie streaming services including, but not limited to, Hoopla and Kanopy have thousands of titles to
peruse from an app on your smart TV. Music lovers can peruse millions of songs through Freegal Music, Qello, and Classica. New Orleans Public Library began the proprietary Crescent City Sounds music streaming service to promote hometown music and musicians. The tunes and playlists are curated by local library staffers, musicians, and journalists.
More than just entertainment, streaming services including Creativebug provide arts and craft tutorial videos. LinkedIn Learning offers courses to learn beginner to advanced professional skills. Of course, e-books and audiobooks can be digitally checked-out through services including Libby, NoveList, Louisiana Digital Library, and Louisiana Public Library Ebook Collection.
Jefferson Parish Library cardholders can access Niche Academy learning tutorials that cover numerous topics. For example, Auto Repair Source contains instructions on how to do repairs for many car models.
In 2023, Jefferson Parish Library began offering an array of items for check-out that have little to do with literature. From this specialized “Beyond Books: Library of Things,” cardholders can check out an array of items including sewing machines, telescopes, cooking and kitchen supplies, instruments, and record players.
While libraries have several computers for use to create documents or access the internet, you can check-out Wi-Fi hotspots from the Jefferson Parish Library for up to 21 days. New Orleans Public Library has Samsung A7 Lite tablets for check-out of up to six months with unlimited data, and these devices can be used as a mobile hotspot, if needed. The tablets are pre-loaded with educational and entertainment apps.
The East New Orleans Regional Library offers tools mainly for the purpose of cleaning out catch basins to prevent clogging and flooding during storms as a part of the CleanUp NOLA Tool Library. The tools were collected thanks to Keep Louisiana Beautiful’s Healthy Communities Grant, and the program opened in 2022. The Tool Library includes supplies such as shovels, rakes, gloves, and wheelbarrows.
City Librarian and Executive Director Emliy Painton explained the idea behind the specialized library items, “Modern-day libraries are tasked with meeting modernday needs. The CleanUp NOLA Tool Library is one more way we’re doing just that—providing the resources our community needs, whether it be something you expect to find in a library or not.”
New Orleans Public Library also offers practical pieces specifically for the kitchen. The Rosa F. Keller Library and Community Center holds the city’s Cake Pan Collection. The professional-grade cake pans were
donated by Delgado Community College’s Culinary Arts Chair Angela Wilson because her personal collection was growing too large. She said, “I knew that there were places where they started these tool libraries, where you can go and check tools out, and I thought, ‘Why couldn’t we do that with cake pans?’”
Circulation and Customer Experience
Librarian Heather Riley continued, “With access to free, high-quality tools, we’re removing at least one financial barrier for home-bakers and small business owners. We’re also reimagining what a library is by circulating these unconventional materials, which is part of what we think it means to have open doors.”
Library cardholders with green thumbs can enjoy New Orleans Public Library’s Seed
Library and take home some fruit and vegetable seeds to try their hands at gardening. These seeds can be paired with one of the regular herb and gardening classes held at select libraries on weekday nights and weekends. Luckily, you don’t have to bring the seeds back to this library. In both parish systems, one of the most useful things you can check-out is a librarian. Cardholders can book windows of time with a librarian who can assist with various services, including digging deeper into the literature that the library holds, aiding in research for school projects, delving into genealogical and historical records, perusing newspaper archives, and helping with creating a résumé. Those who have difficulty with computers, smartphones, or internet services can receive their assistance, as
well. Our libraries are also fantastic resources for community outreach initiatives. Beyond physical and digital items, those wanting to get more involved with the community can join an event, group, or class hosted by their local library. Local libraries have hosted Bollywood-style dance classes, hula hooping for adults, kitten yoga, free notary service days, horror movie meetups for adults, and so much more. Get out of the libraries and into cultural institutions with experience passes available in both systems; they allow cardholders access to museums and live performances.
Check out nolalibrary.org and jplibrary. net for more information on the services the systems provide and to learn more about upcoming events.
FOOD NEWS
By Kim Ranjbar
A’gathering a cuppa . . . Algiers Point java destination Congregation Coffee Roasters recently launched a second location Uptown, on the corner of Jefferson Avenue and Magazine Street. Ever since former owner Eliott Guthrie sold the coffee house and roastery to Patrick Brennan in 2023, they’ve promised a reach into the French Quarter and beyond. “Our goal is to expand with intention and never sacrifice on outstanding quality,” Brennan said. “We’re here to create outstanding coffee coupled with quality customer experiences as unique as our home here in New Orleans.” Located in the Queen Anne Victorian once home to CC’s Coffee House, the second café is serving Congregation’s traditional coffee menu—beans roasted just down the way on Tchoupitoulas Street—featuring rotating single origin coffees, as well as sweet and savory breakfast pastries from the Ralph Brennan Bakery. 900 Jefferson Ave., (504) 420-3636, congregationcoffee.com
All together now . . . Omar Lugo, founder of the Habaneros brand, and Chef Adolfo Gosálvez recently opened Social, a modern Peruvian restaurant across the lake in Madisonville. A dramatic renovation has transformed the former bar space into a stunning, high-end restaurant with porchside views of the Tchefuncte River. Menu items include several ceviches (surprise, surprise) featuring fresh catches paired with sweet potatoes, octopus, calamari and shrimp, crab causa, or a chilled squid ink mashed potato crab salad. There are also slow-cooked short ribs with kabocha squash purée and lomo saltado with filet mignon, tomatoes, red onions, and snow peas in a soy/oyster sauce. 708 Water St., Madisonville, (985) 206-9034, socialrestaurant.co
Twice as hot . . . Local entrepreneur Larry Morrow recently opened yet another restaurant, around the time of Essence Fest 2025, dubbed Spicy Mango. Located on the corner of Frenchmen Street and Esplanade Avenue, the Creole/Caribbean fusion restaurant is recreating a space that’s been home to the Yard, NOLA Cantina, Miss Jean’s, Mojito’s, and, pre-Katrina, the much-missed Marisol. Spicy Mango’s menu offers dishes such as joshi bread (a fried bread made from cornmeal and flour served with guava honey butter), coconut shrimp, grilled elote, stewed oxtails, jerk lamb chops, and paella. 405 Frenchmen St., spicymango.com
FOOD NEWS
A winning combo . . . Frankie & Johnny’s owner David McCelvey has joined forces with restaurateurs Hicham Khodr and Tarek Tay of Byblos to launch Boil & Barrel, a new seafood concept in Lakeview. Located on Harrison Avenue in the building that formerly housed Outpost 45, the Western-themed pub fare spot that closed in March, Boil & Barrel features lots of shareable, seasonal boiled seafood (i.e. crawfish, shrimp, etc.); New Orleans staples including po-boys, boudin, and raw oysters; a few brews on tap; and plenty of bourbon. 900 Harrison Ave., boilandbarrel.com
Spine-chilling spirits Halloween-themed cocktail pop-up Black Lagoon is returning to New Orleans this month. It first emerged from depths of the Dungeon (which isn’t closing, as you may have heard) in 2019 as a “wickedly unique and deli ciously dark” event by founders Erin Hayes and Kelsey Ramage. Today, the Black Lagoon pop-up has spread across the country and beyond, expanding to 39 locations for the 2025 spooky season including Denver, Miami, Galveston, St. Louis, and San Francisco. In New Orleans, the
spirited
event will be popping-up at Anna’s in the Marigny from Wednesday, October 8 to Saturday, November 1 with signature imaginative and spooky cocktails and hauntingly themed interiors. Nightmares never tasted so good. blacklagoonpopup.com
So sad to see you go . . . Rising food costs, import tariffs, and a significant decline in tourism have all played a part in a wave of restaurant closings over the past year. Dickie Brennan’s flagship restaurant Palace Café shuttered after 34 years of business on Canal Street. Located in the former three-story, Werlein’s music shop, the famed restaurant closed due to a legal dispute with the building’s owners, who sought to quintuple the rent. Hopes are high that Palace Café may one day reopen elsewhere in the city, if not on Canal Street.
Ancora Pizzeria & Salumeria, a 14-year-old Neapolitanstyle pizza purveyor on Freret Street and one of several restaurants to open after the corridor’s post-Katrina revitalization, closed its doors at the end of July. In an Instagram post, proprietor Bryn Thompson decided to move on instead of “caving in to Uber Eats or changing what we do to cater to a different demographic.”
Tatlo, a witchy cocktail bar and restaurant that recently opened on Bourbon Street, closed over the summer. Launched by Filipino chef Cristina Quackenbush, the speakeasy space behind the Old Absinthe House catered to the spiritual with cuisine and cocktails created to manifest the divine, from prosperity and virility to fertility and abundance. Quackenbush hinted at a new chapter (or location?) for the bewitching bar, but we’ll have to consult the tarot to confirm.
Opened only less than two years ago, Mid-City restaurant Rosella also closed at the end of July. Serving “Creole and Cajun cuisine with a twist,” the neighborhood restaurant, operated by Romney Richard and her husband Charley (initially Alix Petrovich and Paul McCaige), was popular for its corndogs and bean salads created by Chef Tal Jones, who previously headed the kitchen at Lola’s Restaurant.
The bubbles are no longer being poured on Rampart Street because the sparkling wine and caviar bar Effervescence shuttered at the end of August. In an Instagram post, owner Crystal Hinds announced the restaurant’s “retirement” with effusive thanks to both guests and staff for nearly a decade of decadence at the high-end, French Quarter hangout. We raise a glass to what was and what yet may be.
COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH
Ramos Gin Fizz
By Tim McNally
There is quite possibly another wellknown cocktail that has a more difficult reputation to concoct among professional mixologists, but none springs to mind.
There is a historic one created in New Orleans—an internationally famous adult concoction that has gained a reputation as being able to ruin the pleasure of an entire shift of those working behind the stick, a.k.a. being a bartender.
We will start this tale at the beginning and then see where the trouble comes in. Henry C. Ramos was born in Vincennes, IN, in 1856. He was a first-generation American born to German parents. He had a usual childhood as far as accomplishments and education were concerned. His family moved to New Orleans when he was still a little boy, so his Protestant parents placed themselves and their child in a Catholic environment. It was also a place where the depths of the Civil War were felt but not directly affected by battles. Hospitals and holidays were a part of both sides of the war as they were experienced in New Orleans.
Carl, as Henry Ramos preferred to be called, placed priority on becoming a Freemason, which meant that he did not consume alcohol, and he became a staunch pillar of society. He achieved, during his life, the 32nd Degree of Freemasonry, one degree short of the highest honor in that fraternal setting.
As a young man, Carl was industrious and sought opportunity in a variety of commercial pursuits. The one that appealed to him the most, ironically, was the role of saloon keeper. Seems odd that would interest him, but he was commercially driven and, in South Louisiana, that is an admirable direction for a career, even for a non-drinker. Seems Carl liked the managing aspects as well as the labor-intensive styles in that time period.
Carl and his brother found opportunities purchasing bars in Baton Rouge and Birmingham, AL, before making their investment in New Orleans in 1887. Carl had worked for a large beer hall saloon on Exchange Alley, which started his interest in the alcohol-serving business before his multiple investments in such places.
The Imperial Cabinet Saloon, corner of Carondelet and Gravier and in the heart of the American Sector, was an immediate success. There were many reasons for this success: its location in the burgeoning business area of the city, a reputation of being a “fair” house with honest drinks, cold beer at reasonable prices, and also a proprietor who treated all guests with respect. Carl endeared himself to his customers and to the population in general.
He was an impeccable dresser with a particular love of diamonds and also had a winning smile and a sartorial sensibility that communicated he was an astute businessman. He closed the saloon every night at 8 p.m. He did not cater to a late night crowd, preferring to serve people like himself who respected drinks and proper, courteous socialization.
Proof of that operating philosophy was
borne out in a drink created by Carl and using his name in the title—the Ramos Gin Fizz. The key to the drink was not so much the ingredients, although they are welldefined and come together well, but in the preparation of the cocktail. Likely no other cocktail ever required such large investments in staff. Sure, many cocktails’ success have caused managements to add to staff over the course of their lives, but the Ramos Gin Fizz from day one meant a significant addition to payroll due to its instructions for prolonged shaking.
Remember, in the late 1800s, there were no electric appliances: no stirrers, blenders, ice crushers, or ingredient handling equipment. Everything had to be done by people, on-site and trained for specific purposes. It has been noted that in some popular establishments, as many as 15 youths were on staff to do nothing but shake drinks. At the Imperial Cabinet, at one point in its history, more than 30 shakers would be present to the side of the bar doing nothing but one single task—shaking drinks. The purpose of such rigorous activity was to emulsify one of the most essential ingredients—the egg.
The shakers, always young boys, would shake drinks to meet high customer demands until their arms would be so tired that they would stop, if only for a few minutes, before starting up again. Drinks were passed from one shaker to another during the shaking aspect of preparation because each person would have a different “style.”
The 1933 Gourmet’s Guide to New Orleans Creole Cooking probably said it best, “The real art in making a Gin Fizz is in proper shaking. Don’t just shake it up a few times and think you have done the job, because it is only started. Shake vigorously. Add beaten egg and shake until tired. Shake again.”
Now maybe you better understand why even modern bartenders and mixologists, with electronic equipment that can whip the drink without human effort, do not rate the Ramos Gin Fizz as a favorite cocktail to prepare. It’s a lot of work.
On January 16, 1919—the eve of the first day of Prohibition—Ramos declared, “I’ve sold my last Gin Fizz.” He was true to his word. He never commercially made or sold another Gin Fizz. He died September 18, 1928, and was given a quiet burial in Metairie Cemetery under an impressive memorial tombstone. He is located at the burial site of his teenage daughter, Stella, who passed away in 1916.
The Ramos Gin Fizz is still served extensively worldwide. In New Orleans, it is revered and done properly at the Sazerac Bar in the Roosevelt Hotel, at Cure on Freret Street, and at Peychaud’s in the French Quarter on Toulouse, among many others.
RAMOS GIN FIZZ
Thanks to Difford's Guide
COLLINS GLASS
2 oz Hayman’s Old Tom Gin (not London Dry Gin)
1⁄2 oz Lemon juice (freshly squeezed)
1⁄2 oz Lime juice (freshly squeezed)
3⁄4 oz Monin Pure Cane Syrup (65.0°brix, equivalent to 2:1 rich syrup)
0.04 oz Orange blossom water / Orange flower water
3⁄4 oz Egg white
3⁄4 oz Single cream/half-and-half Top up with Thomas Henry Soda Water
HOW TO MAKE:
• Pre-chill Collins glass.
• Prepare garnish of quarter orange wheel (and optional mint sprig).
• Shake all eight ingredients with ice and strain back into shaker.
• Dry shake (without ice) to emulsify.
• Slowly pour two-thirds of the shaker’s contents from a higherthan-normal height into a chilled empty glass (no ice in the glass), while simultaneously pouring soda with your other hand (the cocktail and soda should form a single stream of liquid falling into the glass).
• As when pouring a Guinness, to achieve a perfect head on a Ramos Gin Fizz, leave to settle for at least a minute. Ideally, during this settling period, the glass should be placed in a glass-froster/ fridge/freezer.
• Pour the final contents of the shaker into the glass (as you do so, the head should rise like a soufflé).
• Garnish with quarter orange wheel on rim (and optional mint sprig bouquet).
A Louisiana Governor &His Favorite Cocktail
By Tim McNally
It is very likely that Huey Long was the most influential governor Louisiana ever had. He was also the most charismatic and entertaining chief executive in our state’s long history. That is quite a bold statement when you consider the questionable lineup of characters and rogues that have been at the top of the Bayou State’s totem pole.
Self-named “The Kingfish,” Huey Long not only charmed Louisiana but was also touted as a candidate for President of the United States, prepping for a run against Franklin D. Roosevelt in the 1936 national election. That never happened, because on September 10, 1935, Long was assassinated in the basement of Louisiana’s Capitol Building in Baton Rouge, the building that Long helped to get built during his first term in the Office of Governor.
Huey Long stories are legendary and most of them are true. The one we are focusing on is about Long’s love of the Ramos Gin Fizz cocktail. He loved the way they were made at the Roosevelt Hotel in New Orleans in the Sazerac Bar. He spent a lot of time in New Orleans and most of it was spent in the Roosevelt Hotel. He even constructed a highway from Baton Rouge’s Capitol and Governor’s Mansion to the back door of the Roosevelt. It was called Airline Highway, U.S. 61, and it was straighter with fewer turns than the other road, the Great River Road, which was the previous path.
Because he was governor, Long spent some time in New York convincing businessmen to invest in Louisiana with manufacturing plants and investment bonds. On one of these “state visits,” Long checked into the Hotel New Yorker, headed to that hotel’s bar, and ordered a Ramos Gin Fizz. The drink he was served was significantly below Long’s standards.
Long did two things: he instructed the manager of the bar at the Hotel New Yorker to gather the entire staff for a meeting the next morning at 9 a.m., well before usual bar staff hour, and then he summoned the head bartender at the Roosevelt in New Orleans to New York to be at the meeting.
At the meeting, Long told the bar staff of the Hotel New Yorker, “This here bar man from New Orleans is going to teach you how to make a proper New Orleans Gin Fizz,” which is what Long called the drink.
To be very clear, Long had summoned the bar manager of the Sazerac Bar, Sam Guarino, to be in New York the morning after Long’s disappointing experience with the New York version of the Gin Fizz. Moving around the country in 1935 was not easy nor a usual style. But when the Governor of Louisiana summoned Guarino, there was no question about doing what was commanded.
Bar Guide
Bourbon Street Honky Tonk 727 Bourbon St. 504-523-1927
Fillmore 6 Canal St. 504-881-1555
Ghost Bar 606 Iberville St. 504-910-2010
Headquarters by Nice Guys 445 S. Rampart St. 504-217-6851
The Blackbird Hotel 1612 Prytania St. 504-383-7500
Grenade drink you love.
The Fillmore is on the second floor of Caesars New Orleans Hotel & Casino and hosts big and small named musical artists, as well as full-service private productions with custom drink menus and mixologists.
A fun spin on usual bar fare, this “spooky” spot offers plenty of themed cocktails, is open until very early in the morning, and offers plenty of delicious food options including pizza.
Headquarters is a sister establishment of Nice Guys Nola. This trendy spot has DJ nights, wine, beer, and specialty drinks, including a Blueberry Drop Martini.
This elevated cocktail lounge and restaurant offers contemporary Creole cuisine alongside expertly crafted drinks. High Grace features plush seating and mood lighting, perfect for enjoying their signature cocktails and seasonal small plates.
The House of Blues can be enjoyed as both a restaurant and a music venue. Order one of their specialty cocktails including the Beast of Bourbon and Strawberry Fields.
The Boondock Saint 731 St. Peter St. 504-525-4950
The Channel 2604 Magazine St. 504-381-4680
The Jazz Playhouse 300 Bourbon St. 504-553-2299
The Jimani 141 Chartres St. 504-524-0493
The Metropolitan 310 Andrew Higgins Blvd. 504-568-1702
The Vintage 3121 Magazine St. 504-324-7144
Tropical Isle Multiple Locations 504-523-1927
Lots a Luck Tavern is a true laid-back, locals bar. Go by yourself to catch a game with some fellow fans or bring a group to enjoy affordable drinks and a game of pool.
Martine’s Lounge is a classic neighborhood bar with darts, video poker, and happy hour every day. Wednesdays are for trivia, and order a cocktail from one of their daily specialty cocktails.
Pal’s Lounge is a great hangout spot with creative specialty cocktails, beers, and shots. Order their Honey Lavender Rose Sangria or their “House Salad” drink.
Parasol’s is a neighborhood bar with a selection of NOLA eats, including the best roast beef po-boy in town. Stop by and enjoy their cold, refreshing drinks.
Rick’s Cabaret is one of New Orleans’ finest gentlemen’s clubs. With two floors of entertainment, three bars, and a friendly staff, you can’t go wrong.
The only place in New Orleans where you can find a mechanical, rideable rooster, saddle up to Saddle Bar and order one of their Western-inspired cocktails, including the Ranch Water.
Sazerac House is a distillery and museum honoring the legacy of one of New Orleans’ most famous cocktails—the Sazerac. Guests can experience a special tasting area.
Home of the famous 10 oz. Swamp Burger and many more hearty options including steak and wings, the Swamp Room is a perfect spot to dine, drink, and watch the big game while in Metairie.
The Blackbird Hotel boasts a dramatic interior, including a full-service bar that locals and visitors adore. Their vast drink menu serves draft beer, fine wine, and unique cocktails.
The Boondock Saint is an Irish pub that is all about cool drinks and good times. The bar, located in the heart of the French Quarter, has plenty of beer and other drinks to choose from.
The Channel is a cozy, Irish pub that serves craft beer, wine, and delicious eats—including a decadent cheeseburger. Their New Orleans-style bar food menu and refreshing drinks make it a great place to watch the big game.
The Jazz Playhouse is located in the lobby of Royal Sonesta. Enjoy some local jazz music while ordering a jazz-inspired signature drink, including Ella Fitzgerald’s Pearflower Martini.
Family-owned and opened in 1971, the Jimani has an impressive food menu, over 100 beers, and a door that stays open until 4 a.m. They even have jello shots.
The Metro is a top-notch nightclub with three rooms featuring smoke machines and lighting effects. With 11 bar stations, it’s the ideal place to party all night and enjoy plenty of drinks.
The Vintage is a chic café with coffee, pastries, cocktails, wine, and more. Order their beignets and one of their crafted cocktails, including the Espresso Yourself and Tia’s Can Can.
Home of the Hand Grenade, a drink synonymous with Bourbon Street, Tropical Isle has multiple locations across Bourbon Street. They also have other iconic drinks including the Tropical Itch.
By Debbie Lindsey
Requiem for The Duchess TALES FROM THE QUARTER
We knew her time was coming, but I would shush Husband every time he brought it up in her company. When the conversations had to begin in earnest, I still spoke in a near whisper. But when the Duchess’s A/C went out with little hope of being repaired, it was time. It was symptomatic of her decline.
She was “yar” and despite an array of chronic issues: shocks, mysterious stalling (in traffic), a long bout with the muffler that resembled a prolapsed uterus, and tune ups that never fully corrected her flatulence of environmentally unfriendly emissions, the visits to the mechanics were just buying time.
Some of her more cosmetic shortcomings were actually rather endearing. She was a ’97 Lincoln Town Car, and her battle scars gave her character. Our dog Scout knew when she and Philipe were driving into the home stretch two blocks away and ran to the door to await his return home from work. Was it the metal on metal grinding, like an arthritic stripper, or the smell of cat food spilled randomly throughout the car? We feed ferals. Either way, Scout welcomed her as she rattled into park.
I came to love the sound of Duchess as she’d turn a corner and head towards me, my renegade Uber. I don’t drive, so I was often waiting for Philipe to fetch me from work or an appointment. The whole Uber/chauffeur effect was fully realized since, for the past two years, I rode in the backseat. The passenger door, and window, seem to be the first to go in elderly Lincolns. We had experienced this with our former ’94 Town Car, affectionately known as the Stinkin’ Lincoln.
I didn’t ride alone in the back. I shared my “office” with Ruby the Hauntingly Beautiful Mannequin. She rode, seatbelted, of course, behind Philipe and stared severely out the window, and I took the right-hand backseat behind the not-in-use front passenger seat. One day, as we took a sharp turn, the “thoughtit-would-not-open” front passenger door broke free of her duct-tape and attempted to spread her wing. I grabbed it shut from the backseat. From then on, her wing/ door was tethered tight with sturdy rope to the car seat.
I didn’t mind the backseat. It was roomy. However, I did tire quickly of the Driving Miss Daisy jokes.
You may ask, “Why don’t you drive?” I got a driver’s license at 16 like most and, like most teenagers, at least back then, there were rules and limits to when and where I was allowed to drive. I, of course, went somewhere without letting my folks know, and they felt I violated their trust— of course I did. It was my job as a teenager. So driving privileges were revoked
for a couple of weeks, and I reacted with the righteous outrage to be expected of a teenager. I said, “Nevermind. Just cancel my insurance. I don’t need to drive and be a part of the pollution.”
I didn’t really think that part through since I still rode everywhere with them or friends, thereby polluting vicariously; however, I did develop walking and bussing as my main mode of transportation through the years and had no regrets about not driving or desiring a car of my own.
I did drive once, years later, and without a license. I drove my boyfriend’s truck to the convenience store a few blocks away from his place to buy some soft drinks. He forgot to tell me the brakes were hinky, and I jumped the parking barricade and gently hit the 7-Eleven. Remarkably, no harm done to the storefront or his pickup truck. Not so remarkably, I never drove again.
Two things I never wanted to do: get married or own a car. My rebellious nature relented and accepted Philipe’s proposal, and I co-own a car, but, I still don’t drive.
As mentioned, I am not the only one who doesn’t drive. There is Ruby, who shares the honor of being chauffeured. Ruby came to be the Duchess’ fulltime passenger after a rather brutal period of car-jackings and break-ins. I credit Ruby with deterring the bad guys as she is very startling to walk up on. Even neighbors who knew she was a mannequin would continue to be spooked by her, especially men. I believe that, deep down, most men are intimidated by a strong woman, and Ruby looks scary strong.
Philipe and I took great pride in the Duchess. She stood out, was one of a kind, and could evoke an array of reactions from those we passed. Some saw in her memories of their grandmother’s sedan, while others were reminded of “that crazy drug dealer who’d cruise the streets.” Her bumper stickers made her quite political. While Ruby became a bit of a local celebrity and was often photographed. We figured anyone can own a Honda Civic, but not too many have a Duchess. She was a diamond that was a bit rough. Furthermore, she could sashay in and out and around potholes like a champ. The shocks were shot, but what the hell?
Recently, she went on her last drive to Bridge House. She was donated to them so that in some way she can live on by helping save lives through their alcohol and drug rehab mission. Their services/ treatments/rehabilitations are offered regardless of one’s ability to pay. Learn more at bridgehouse.org/about. Some day after her own rehabilitation by Bridge House trained mechanics, we hope to see the Duchess cruising down the street once more.
Thhe Galley
• BOILED CRABS
• OYSTERS: RAW & CHARGRILLED
• BOILED JUMBO SHRIMP
+ COCONUT SHRIMP
• FRIED & SAUTEED CRAB CLAWS
• JUMBO SNOWCRABS
• 12 ENTRÉE SALADS
• STEAKS
• FRIED CHICKEN DINNERS
• LOCAL SOFTSHELL CRABS
• ITALIAN CUISINE
• SEAFOOD DINNERS: –FRIED, BOILED, GRILLED
• ROAST BEEF PO-BOYS
• DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS
• TOP SHELF COCKTAILS
• CRAWFISH ETOUFEE
• FROG LEGS
• HAMBURGERS
• SPECIAL FISH SANDWICH
PO-BOY VIEWS
By Phil LaMancusa
Rest or Rant
“Well she’s up against the register with an apron and a spatula Yesterday’s deliveries, tickets for the bachelors She’s a moving violation from her conk down to her shoes.”
Tom Waits, “Invitation To The Blues”
Walking, strolling, stumbling, sashaying, or parading into any temple of gustatory delights and confabulations, either at home or abroad, and being catered to by a member of the female gender is a distinctive experience. She who generally gets unnoticed, underappreciated, usually hit on, and/ or, in the mature and best cases, adored and respected. The “goddess of the grub,” the female server, hithertofore known as a waitress, tray jockey, hash slinger, dining diva, or, as Mr. Waits would say, “an invitation to the blues,” is a person cut from a different cloth, and the work of ensuring your hunger is assuaged (not a simple task) requires a skill set like no other.
Whether it’s in a Waffle House, or at the Ritz, slinging grilled cheese or Beef Wellington in traditional “black and white” or harvest gold uniforms, a stint in the “chaos of kitchen to table for tips” is a rite of passage for many women. Seventy percent of servers are women, and over two million women in the U.S. work the floors of our high and low brow eateries. They also raise children and put up with husbands, lovers, and landlords. They make sure that bills are paid and critters get flea drops.
Debbie has 42 years under her apron and tray. She knows.
They’ve been known to have a cocktail or two after breaking their backs to make sure that your burger is medium rare, and I’ve seen more than a few raise hell in a pub or pool hall. Many shop at Costco.
I was raised in a restaurant family. My mother was a waitress, and my father was a cook. My stepfather owned a small bar and grill on the outskirts of Greenwich Village in New York. My Aunt Katie and Uncle Jack worked the cruise lines. Aunt Dot was a philandress. Uncle Pauli was a bartender, and Uncle Charlie a drunk. I grew up as a conglomeration of them all.
I learned early the disciplines of eating out, the rite of the table neatness and arrangement afterwards, the formality of the tipping procedure, and the art of “sucking it up” if things went awry at your table, because, as Mom said, “You never know what they’re going through.” I was made aware that quarter tips in a coffee shop add up to dollars, sometimes many, at the end of the shift. I’ve witnessed the ultimate waitress insult when someone leaves a penny on the table instead of a gratuity. I’ve seen female servers chase customers into the street to throw their miserly tips back at them. Cursing like sailors is second nature to them.
I’ve worked kitchens where the
waitress’ smile is put on as they leave the food line into the dining area and is dropped upon their arrival back in, saying, “That jerk at Table 21 says that his steak is not well done enough for him. Plus, do we even have something called ‘FiftySeven Sauce?’”
I’ve watched them take a crying baby from a mother’s arms so that she could have a moment to eat in peace, gush over new lovers, diffuse impending confrontations, and have an extra pair of reading glasses for the elderly and some crayons for the young. I’ve watched the ballet that they’ve perfected working a station of six tables in a 7:30 rush. The word “multitasking” doesn’t come close to describing what they’re capable of. Awesome is more apt.
Now this is not about dissing their male counterparts, and I will probably write an article about the waiters that I’ve seen and been, likewise with the bartender, chef/cook, and owner—I’ve been all those positions. This is about the women. Furthermore, come to think of it, female waitrons are also the best at training the uninitiated in the art and craft of the tray:
“Don’t flirt, it can be misinterpreted and can lead to trouble. Pick out the person that looks like they’re the one paying and make sure that, just like all others at the table, their experience is stellar—only theirs is more so. Make sure that the women and men at your table are treated equally. Don’t pander. Pay special attention to a table anxious about time. They need the most attention. Make eye contact when communicating. Serve the women first.
“Change silverware, if necessary. Keep water glasses filled. Don’t hover but be aware of what’s going on. Yes, eavesdrop, so you can anticipate needs. Always try to exceed their expectations. A bad tip now will be made up by a good tip later. It all evens out. Remember—it’s only dinner.”
Okay, I’ll admit it. I personally prefer a female server to a male. Whether in Birkenstock or high heels, “girls” in or out, novice or seasoned pro, they get my vote. Sure, I’ve gotten some less than perfect service at times, but I’ve gotten some of my best from women. And, no, I don’t expect better service from any gender identity food server, host, or bartender over any other gender identity. It’s all the same to me. It’s literally a crap shoot who the person is that will satisfy my stomach and ease my stressed out blood sugar when I strut my stuff into a food palace of any and all statures. It just feels more like home when I hear that person say, “More coffee, hon?”
FILM REVIEWS
By David Vicari & Fritz Esker
Spinal Tap II: The End Continues
Forty-one years after This Is Spinal Tap, one of the most influential mockumentaries ever made, we finally get a sequel, Spinal Tap II: The End Continues, and it was shot primarily in New Orleans.
The director of the rock documentary This Is Spinal Tap, filmmaker Martin “Marty” DiBergi (Rob Reiner), goes on a mission to track down and reunite the three core members of Spinal Tap, and, of course, he finds them. Lead guitarist Nigel Tufnel (Christopher Guest) runs a cheese-and-guitar shop where you can trade guitars for wheels of cheese and vice versa. David St. Hubbins (Michael McKean), guitarist and lead vocals, currently writes the music you hear when a company puts you on hold during a phone call. Finally, bassist Derick Smalls (Harry Shearer) is the curator of a glue museum, which houses glues from around the world.
They all agree to do a final concert that will take place at the Lakefront Arena in New Orleans, but there is much tension between David and Nigel, longtime friends who, for mysterious reasons, haven’t spoken in years.
The film could have gone a little deeper concerning the estrangement of the two characters and how resentment, real or imagined, is just time wasted, but this is a comedy and it’s mainly about the laughs. There are lots of musician cameos here: Garth Brooks, Trisha Yearwood, Questlove, Chad Smith, Lars Ulrich, Paul McCartney, and Elton John, who was clearly having the most fun with his cameo.
A comedy like this is strictly hit or miss jokes wise, and while it starts off kind of wobbly, Spinal Tap II does hit its stride with many gags that land. One of the funniest moments is what Nigel stores in a small compartment on the back of his guitar. This is one of those great gags that makes you laugh twice—first when you see the actual sight gag, then again because of the absurdity of it.
Spinal Tap II is breezy, fun nostalgia.
David Vicari
The Long Walk
Director Francis Lawrence (I Am Legend, The Hunger Games: Catching Fire) adapts one of Stephen King’s darkest stories with the dystopian thriller The Long Walk
The film takes place in an America that is decades into full economic collapse. Its totalitarian government puts on a contest where contestants apply by lottery to participate. They must continue walking at a minimum speed of three miles per hour, with any drop below resulting in a warning. After three warnings, the participant is executed. The walk continues until only one is left and that person is granted any wish they want, other than to overthrow the government.
The movie’s main characters are Ray (Cooper Hoffman) and Pete (David Jonsson). They form relationships, some friendly and some initially antagonistic, with some of the other walkers; however, the specter of death hangs over them all.
In a way, The Long Walk functions as an exceptionally bleak metaphor for life. A person starts with optimism and high hopes, makes some friends as they go, but they grow more tired and pained as the journey progresses and watch their
friends gradually fall by the wayside until, one day, it is their turn to fall. Suffice to say, it is not a film that will enter the Hallmark Channel’s rotation during Christmas season. At its worst, The Long Walk can feel a bit like misery porn. Like too many modern films, it’s also hopelessly in love with gratuitous extreme gore. Someone should tell filmmakers this is neither shocking nor edgy nor transgressive when it seems like the majority of R-rated films now feature this level of gore. But, at its best, it’s a film that emphasizes the importance of human connection, even if that connection is brief and even if everything else seems hopeless. Ultimately, Hoffman and Jonsson earn this a positive rating. Both are excellent. Viewers may remember Jonsson from Alien: Romulus, a film he almost single-handedly elevated from mediocrity with his soulful performance. Here, they imbue what could have simply been a lengthy exercise in cruelty with a desperately needed humanity. Tut Nyuot also does strong work in support as one of the kinder boys on the walk. —Fritz Esker
at The Library
Spooky Events For All Ages
Fright
Night: An Evening of Terrifying Tales
Local authors Adrian Van Young, SueBird Sparrow, and Dawn Chartier celebrate spooky season by reading their most macabre manuscripts. Costumes encouraged.
Tuesday, October 14, 6:30pm–7:30pm Hubbell Library
Art Smarts: Spooky Stories–Edward Gorey Illustrations
In each session of Art Smarts, participants will be introduced to an important artist through a picture book biography, then create their own artwork inspired by the artist we just learned about. For children ages 6–12.
Tuesday, October 21, 4pm–5pm Robert E. Smith Library
Spooky Fun: An Early Literacy Adventure
Practice developing early literacy skills with crafts, hands-on activities, and snacks. A fun, spooky-themed program for children ages 2–5 and their families.
Friday, October 17, 10:30am–11:30am Mid-City Library
House of Schlock: Halloween Double Feature
Carnival of Souls (1962) & Dementia 13 (1963)
The mad doctor returns to the House of Schlock with a spooky double feature, complete with history and trivia in the style of the classic horror hosts. Refreshments will be served.
Saturday, October 25, 1pm–4:30pm Algiers Regional Library
Find more Halloween celebrations at events.nolalibrary.org
