VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
FEBRUARY 2020
W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM
VENICE, THE CITY OF
Carnival
Sumptuous masked balls and myriad events: the world’s best-loved festival is back!
ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
吃喝玩乐 尽在这里
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
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WELCOME TO ITALY
Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®
www.where-venice.com
Dear Visitor, Welcome to Venice! Our country has been a world tourism destination for more than 500 years, even before the word ‘tourism’ was coined in the XIX century. Now that more than one billion tourists travel throughout the world annually, Italy is the fifth most visited country in the world with 58.3 million tourists. And it’s not a coincidence.
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Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS
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If you’re here on a pleasure trip, you already know why Italy has such enormous appeal. If, on the other hand, you’re here for business, look around and let Where® be your guide. You can use our magazine as a manual to discover and enjoy the country’s most unique aspects. Whether it’s a question of history, beautiful landscapes, the number of different experiences available, the food, or the warm, friendly people, remember that the diversity of this unique country is embodied within just a few kilometers: from the north to the south, from the east to the west, from the sea to the mountains, from the countryside to the art cities. Don’t forget that only a few kilometers from where you are now, you can enjoy the experiences of a lifetime. To make sure you don’t miss them, consult Where®. We’re in love with Italy and we want to share this love with you.
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SEASON MOOD IN VENICE
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REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)
This is a unique month. After the calm of January, February begins with a slew of expectations, in anticipation of the pacific invasion of Carnival. In this city, renowned for its picture perfect backdrop, everything revolves around this event. The secret to having fun? Let your hair down and allow yourself to be transported by the festive revelry in the ‘calli’. 2 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
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IV
Venice February 2020 the guide 22 SHOPPING
The Pandora Concept Store welcomes customers into a precious world of jewelry. The ideal place for those in search of a romantic gift.
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
Parco San Giuliano
30 DINING
44
ESSENTIALS
22
SHOPPING
Located in the sestiere of San Polo, the Antiche Carampane continues to be anchored to traditional Venetian cuisine, with a focus on the catch of the day.
ISOLA DI T
36 ENTERTAINMENT
Enhanced by masks and spectacular performances, the Dodge's Ball is an ideal opportunity to experience the opulence of 18th century Venice.
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Carnival in Venice is an extravaganza lasting for more than two weeks. During this time the Lagoon city is transformed into one large performance amidst masks, balls, prizes and presentations.
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"Il Ballo del Doge"at Palazzo Pisani Moretta, organized every year by Antonia Sautter. Ph © Osvaldo Di Pietrantonio
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P O R T O M A R GThis H Emonth's R A round-up of shows,
Sumptuous masked balls and myriad events: the world’s best-loved festival is back!
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FEBRUARY 2020
Contents
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town 1
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 4 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 6 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 5 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
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pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561.
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 2 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 3
SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 7 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES FEBRUARY
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA
MORE ON WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM/EVENTS
OPERA
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THE ELIXIR OF CARNIVAL ‘L’Elisir d’Amore’ (The Elixir of Love) is a comic opera by Donizetti. It features a score packed with charming melodies that highlight the story of Nemorino, a poor peasant who is in love with Adina, a beautiful landowner, who tortures him with her indifference, until Dr. Dulcamara, a travelling salesman, sells him a fake love potion. The most famous arias are the chorus ‘Cantiamo, facciam brindisi’, the Adina-Dulcamara duet ‘Quanto amore’ and ‘Una furtiva lagrima’, the famous, mellifluous ballad sung by Nemorino. During Carnival, on Thursday 20 February at 7pm and on Sunday 23 February at 5pm, the opera will be followed by a cocktail and DJ-set at the Sale Apollinee: masks are welcome! Gaetano Donizetti. L’Elisir d’Amore Teatro La Fenice, San Marco 4387. www.teatrolafenice.it PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
PALAZZO GRASSI. HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON, 'SIMIANE-LA-ROTONDE, FRANCE, 1969', ÉPREUVE GÉLATINO-ARGENTIQUE DE 1973 © FONDATION HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON / MAGNUM PHOTOS
ART
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THE CALL OF THE PRIMITIVE
Migrating Objects. Arts of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas in the Peggy Guggenheim Collection Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Dorsoduro 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it
PUNTA DELLA DOGANA. LLYN FOULKES, 'DELIVERANCE', 2007. PINAULT COLLECTION © LLYN FOULKES
► Peggy Guggenheim has gone down in history for challenging boundaries as a collector and patron. She is celebrated for her groundbreaking collection of European and American modern art. Guggenheim turned to the arts of Africa, Oceania and the indigenous cultures of America in the 1950s and 1960s. The exhibition features 35 works of ‘non-Western’ art, on display for the first time at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, revealing a part of the patron’s collection that has rarely been seen by the public.
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CARNIVAL
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▲ Carnival in Venice is a unique, open-air costume extravaganza renowned for its history and FEBRUARY unforgettable atmosphere. In addition to the official parties – held on the Grand Canal, in Rio Cannaregio, piazza Ducale and in the city’s ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’ – the city abounds in private parties and masked balls at famous Venetian ‘palazzi’. Traditionally, the most important days of the Venetian Carnival are Giovedì grasso (Fat Thursday) and Martedì grasso (Shrove Tuesday), even though visitor attendance reaches its peak at the weekends.
To learn more about the history and program of Carnival 2020, see page 12. 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
A COMBINATION OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND CONTEMPORARY ART
Next month will mark the re-opening of the cycle of exhibitions at Palazzo MARCH 2020 Grassi and Punta della Dogana, the prestigious spaces of the Pinault Collection. In addition to ‘Henri Cartier-Bresson: Le Grand Jeu’, an exhibition that looks at how the famous French photographer’s work is viewed by five different curators, Palazzo Grassi will host a monographic exhibition dedicated to artist Youssef Nabil (Cairo, 1972), titled ‘Once Upon a Dream’, featuring hand-painted photographic portraits that recreate the idea of a legendary Egypt – a mix of symbolism and abstraction. On the other hand, the large spaces at Punta della Dogana will host ‘Untitled 2020’, a site-specific project conceived by Caroline Bourgeois, Muna El Fituri and artist Thomas Houseago, that showcases the work of 60 artists, accompanied by references and quotes ranging from the 20th century to the present time, displayed according to a dialogue based on emotional, sensory, visual and tactile connections. HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON: LE GRAND JEU YOUSSEF NABIL. ONCE UPON A DREAM Palazzo Grassi. Campo San Samuele 3231 UNTITLED, 2020 Punta della Dogana. Dorsoduro 2. www.palazzograssi.it
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BLOCKBUSTER EXHIBITIONS
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FLEMISH TREASURES
▼ The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish SEPTEMBER MARCH Collections’ at Palazzo Ducale 2019 2020 treats visitors to a breathtaking sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time.
LAST DAYS
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20TH CENTURY MASTERS
From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it IMAGE: MICHAELINA WAUTIER, TWO GIRLS AS SAINTS AGNES AND DOROTHY © ROYAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS ANTWERP. PHOTO HUGO MAERTENS
▲ A journey through a series of important works, and an unmissable opportunity to reflect on art and its future through the voices of 20th century masters. The exhibition at Palazzo Franchetti ranges from the Metaphysics of Giorgio de Chirico to Giorgio Morandi; from the Futurism of Giacomo Balla to the Surrealism of René Magritte; from the Bauhaus of Paul Klee to the New York of Franz Kline; from the colours of Joan Miró to the material art of Leoncillo. The itinerary ends with the revolution of the 1960s and a room dedicated to Andy Warhol, while outside, in the garden overlooking the Grand Canal, Roberto Sebastian Matta’s totems take centre stage (see photo).
NOVEMBER 2019
FEBRUARY 2020
The XX Century at Palazzo Franchetti Palazzo Franchetti. www.acppalazzofranchetti.com
ENTERTAINMENT
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MUSIC IN MASKS
◄ To experience the excitement of a festive evening, reminiscent of those held in the homes of wealthy Venetian FEBRUARY aristocrats, head to the magnificent Salone Capitolare at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro, currently the most prestigious private concert venue in Venice. Here, the orchestra of the Musici Veneziani will perform Antonio Vivaldi’s four concerts for violin and strings inspired by the four seasons. The program is executed by musicians dressed in magnificent period costumes and jewelry based on original 18th-century drawings.
The Musici Veneziani. Antonio Vivaldi’s Four Seasons Scuola Grande di San Teodoro, Campo San Salvador. www.imusiciveneziani.com w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
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PHOTO RIALTO © F11PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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TE RIN CAMPO ialto Bridge is one of the A ca N D R DEI GESUITI FO ND AM most famous and widely AM EN IN TA ZE N photographed landmarksFof CA OND LL . S .A E FO LA Venice. Not only the undisputedNDREA ND RG CAL A LE AM DE VOL icon of postcards and ‘selfies’, but EN TI I B OT TE CAL ER FO ND C A M P O D E L NO . CA E V SA RT O I also the oldest bridge in the city RI E N IE LL VE ED LE ERBE R EL CAMPO L (until 1854 it was the only means AS F O of crossing DE LA CARITA’ TU ND A CA AM the Grand Canal on foot). Located Ein LL N T the CORTE DEL E San Felice A BE REMER RL city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. picturesque Rialto neighbourhood, it is PaRIUheady whose C A L in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, R IO LE D LI EN TER EL V DI À BA O LT O S R A FR In 1250, its woodenBpiles were replaced by mix of shops, eateries and architecture, where vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit RAMO U TA DEL M R IO L CORTE DEL OR POZETO a mobile structure, a sort of drawbridge that A the days are marked by the cries of the vendors and vegetables. DE ORO CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA allowed larger craft to sail under it, and its of its famous, bustling market and by the Although a visit to this market means elbowing ro N ST CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO name was changed to the Rialto bridge, comings and goings of Venetians and tourists one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, Santa Sofia R azionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E San possibly due to its association with the nearby who are either in search the market nevertheless boasts two gems of Lazzaro E N O of a traditional ‘osteria’ erna Ca’ VA B ATA G I A RI VA SC D’Oro CORTE O dei Mendicant district of Rivalto, or ‘high bank’. or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA CORTE NOVA A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, back to 1907 featuring looking to make a purchase from one of the a blaze of maritime Santi Apostoli the bridge collapsed and was damaged several CAMPIELLO innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that line its ‘calli’ and symbolic decorations, including a number WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL LE G A Bthat DELLA but CASON Cà d'Oro times. The daring scenically impact-making of esoteric elements and ‘campielli’ and flank both sides of the bridge. are mixed in with R IE LI new design (1591) submitted by Antonio da the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on theSS. Giovan S.Canciano Ospedale C A M P I E L L O Chiesa Evangelica N N CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN Ponte consisted of aS Asingle 22 meter stone FROM HISTORY TO LEGEND capitals M L EofEits colonnade. More attentive visitors Luterana ID S C UO W LE E LL arch span, supported by a broad rectangular The history of this iconic bridge dates back to will also notice a marble plaque embedded CA CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA deck carrying two arcades of shops and the year 1000 when was built as a pontoon in one of its red brick facades, which shows CAMPOitDELLA CAL LE Cassiano LAR N PESCARIA GA A N Z IA ‘botteghe’ fronting bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due regulations Gset . G A centuries ago for minimum A N Con three roadways. L L IN ADA S A S A L IZ Santa Maria RI to increased traffic it was replaced with a allowable sizes for lagoon fish.Basilica dei O DE CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli THE FAMOUS MARKET wooden IR BECARIE bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CAL OL LE D CAMPO CAMPO EL F I Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is della Moneta’ both CESARE due to the toll that people FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS Grisostomo ORN BATTISTI O CAL L E SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ divided into the Pescaria, where fish caughtC A S T E L L I However, Rialto also means shopping. While had to pay when crossing it and because the DELLA Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA CAMPO CA LL E strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when dell’Osp DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa ER BE CA CORTE SECONDA DE M crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION SA L NS LO BA RB AR ON unusual shops that are imbued with the di Rialto IA DE LE I Casa di atmosphere of a bygone era. CAMPO AMPIELLO Marco Polo RIALTO These include antique shops, artisans’ DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO workshops, old book binding shops where dei Tedeschi NO VA CA C. D LLE ’Aponal TA DEL RA books are still bound according to timeEL F DEL C .M O NTE E A RT P IO GO MB GH IN E Ponte O NG RU OD honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling SA CAL . PA N G FO L E G LLE O di Rialto SALIZZ CORTE IA Z Z CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE O AN ME TREVISAN CAMPO NAL DEL NI NT AD original creationsPRESTRIN made from Murano glass SAN BORTOLOMIO LA A A DEL VOLTO TE PIO RA CAMPO NO X beads. On the other hand, those in search of SAN LIO Rialto CAMPIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO MARIA an amazingSANTA experience, should head to the SAL IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D EL G L IO DEI PRETI old post office which now houses the recently ALIA CA Z ZO CALLE LARGA SAN LOREN Fontego LLE LA Maria C. LA opened TSanta Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highRG RGA A CORTE DEL Santa Maria Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO ZZ Palazzo CORTE SABION CAMPO IN endDELshopping center and a magnificent feat of I MONDO della Fava C. DEL CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA Grimani Rialto CORTE NUOVO CALIC Rava DE LA PASINA E MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) architecture that has been updated to brilliantly SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione RIA SAN O E CORTE D SAL EZ A BAN VAD CORTE M SC E LE the old with new. The building OR RUBBI DE boasts a TA balance S.Silvestro LE D LICINI O LE CAL CAMPIELLO Palazzo O AL Teatro T C QUERINI SA marvelous terrace visitors a 360-degree US STAMPALIAoffering CA Querini M LL E Carlo Goldoni San Salvador ED LL MA EM CA RZ view over Venice. CORTE DEL AR Stampalia EZ CORTE IA
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Venice’s lifestyle department store
tfondaco.com
Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi steps from the Rialto Bridge, Venezia
@tfondaco
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The curtain is raised!
© IHOR SERDYUKOV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
12 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
Carnival in Venice is one of the most eagerly-awaited events both in Italy and abroad. An extravaganza lasting for more than two weeks, during which the Lagoon city is transformed into one large performance amidst masks, balls, prizes and presentations. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI
C
arnival in Venice is known both in Italy and abroad as a spectacular extravaganza that has a strong media impact, during which the city is packed with masks, balls and tourists. As far as the Venetians are concerned, Carnival is much more than a traditional event or a pretext to attract visitors; this festival has ancient origins and is associated with the spirit and personality of Venice. This year, celebrations kick off on 8 February, and end on 25 February. In addition to typical, traditional Carnival events, including the Flight of the Angel in St. Mark’s Square, the city will host numerous fringe events with concerts and DJ sets.
A little history The origins of Carnival date back to ancient times. Like Carnival in ancient Rome, the institution of Carnival by Venice’s ruling classes is generally attributed to the Serenissima’s need to keep the populace content by granting them a period of diversion and enjoyment. The most remarkable years of the Venetian Carnival, which contributed to defining its iconic image, were those of the 18th century, described by Giacomo Casanova in his memoirs. This period was followed by a darker era, during which the city passed a series of laws to prevent Carnival from becoming a free for all for criminals. After the fall of the Serenissima, in 1797, wearing costumes and masks was prohibited once and for all, with the exception of those worn at private parties held at ‘palazzi’ and, as a result, the festival of ‘Carnevale’ virtually disappeared. In the 1970s, the city of Venice officially revived Carnival celebrations which, after a few editions, resumed all the pomp and splendour of its original format, with, however, the addition of a few modifications. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
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Which are your favourites, ‘Fritole’ or ‘Galani’? These are typical Venetian Carnival specialties, which are also a part of ancient tradition. The ‘Fritola’, basically fritters, have been made in Venice since around 1200. The consistency of the dough is fairly heavy and resembles that used to make Focaccia, with the addition of raisins. After being fried in deep oil, they are dusted with sugar (either icing sugar or caster sugar depending on the choice of the pastry chef). For lovers of fillings, the other version of the Venetian Fritola is made with the same dough used to make cream puffs. After being fried, they are filled with pastry cream, zabaglione or other variations on the theme. The best can be found at Rosa Salva, a historic pasticceria, and the winner of several prestigious awards, located in the San Marco district (www.rosasalva.it), or Rizzardini, located just steps from Campo San Polo. On the other hand, Galani, are thin, crumbly strips of dough, shaped like ribbons, and also fried. Their name derives from the braided ribbons that girls once wore around their necks. You can sample them at Tonolo, another historic pastry shop in the Dorsoduro district (pasticceria-tonolo-venezia. business.site) or at Dal Nono Colussi, in the same area (dalnonocolussi.com).
Rosa Salva
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Typical carnival sweet treats and where to find them
The most important events Traditionally, the most important days of Carnival in Venice are Thursday and Shrove Tuesday, even though the largest influx of visitors is registered on weekends during the event. Although you can consult the program and all updates on the event’s official website at www.carnevale.venezia.it, below we’ve rounded up our pick of the most important dates. Carnival festivities start on 8 February with the first part of the ‘Festa Veneziana sull'Acqua’, a water-borne pageant that, this year, will include a repeat performance in the Cannaregio district. The canal is transformed into a kaleidoscopic stage with plays of light and performances on the water, while a crowd of excited onlookers applaud from the banks. The second part of the ‘Festa Veneziana’ takes place the next day, offering visitors a chance to admire the first picturesque parade of gondolas and costumed oarsmen. The arrival of the boats participating in the costumed parade is followed by the traditional tasting of ‘cicheti’ and typical sweet treats, sold at numerous stalls located along the canal. The eagerly awaited Festa e il Corteo delle Marie (Feast of the Marys) is held on 15 February. Since the 9th century in Venice, on the second day of February, the Feast of the Purification of Mary, it was customary to bless couples who were to be married by the end of the year. Twelve of the poorest
PH © DE LUCA FIORENZO
© ANIBAL TREJO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PH © CARNEVALE DI VENEZIA
maidens participating in the blessing were chosen and gifted with sumptuous gowns and jewelry. They were then carried in a procession of boats along the Grand Canal. These ceremonies were accompanied by dances and banquets. In 973, during one of these celebrations, Venice was attacked by pirates and the brides-to-be were kidnapped and their jewelry stolen. The people rebelled and managed to save the maidens. As a token of gratitude to the Virgin Mary, the ‘Feast of Marys’ was instituted. Today, the Venetians stage a re-enactment of the original feast, during which the twelve girls parade through the streets wearing medieval and Renaissance costumes. The traditional pageant of the Marys leaves from San Piero di Castello, a picturesque church located in the Castello district, and continues along Via Garibaldi and Riva degli Schiavoni, until reaching the stage in St. Mark’s Square, where the young girls are officially presented to the public. This feast continues for several days with a series of rituals that culminate in the proclamation of the ‘Maria del Carnevale’ (the Queen of the Carnival), who is then crowned on Shrove Tuesday in St. Mark’s Square. Today, the winner no longer receives clothes or jewelry, but has the honour of being crowned the ‘Angel’ of next year’s carnival. The Flight of the Angel, held every year in St. Mark’s Square, is one of the most iconic moments of the entire extravaganza. However, this is not the only ‘flight’ that you can watch during Carnival. On 23 February, it’s the turn of the Flight of the Eagle, featuring a celebrity from the world of showbiz or sport, whose name is only revealed at the last moment. In 2019, the guest celebrity chosen to participate in the Flight of the Eagle was short track champion Arianna Fontana, the holder of eight Olympic medals. Carnival ends officially on 25 February with the Svolo del Leon. A huge banner, depicting the winged Lion, the symbol of Venice, floats down from the top of the bell tower over the crowds, thus marking the end of the festivities. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15
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Balls and competitions Every evening throughout Carnival, the magnificent Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - a majestic complex overlooking the Grand Canal, whose second floor hosts the games room of the municipal Casino of Venice – acts as a backdrop for the official Carnival dinner and ball (www.vendramincalergi.com). A truly spectacular evening, a gala of masks and costumes that includes a sit-down dinner, DJ sets and live performances. Those who enjoy gambling can end the evening by trying their luck in the Salotto dei Giochi Classici. Those wishing to attend can either ask their concierge to get tickets, or book directly online on the official Venice Carnival website. The Contest for the Most Beautiful Mask is held in St. Mark’s Square on 16, 20 and 22 February. Participants, flaunting costumes, masks and wigs in the hopes of winning, parade on the runway during the daily double heats. This year, the winners of the day’s heats will once again be nominated by the public, thanks to a process of voting by direct elimination,
involving all those gathered in the square. On Monday, 24 February, prizes are awarded to the best children’s costumes. However, the real place to be, or dance, is the Doge’s Ball. This exclusive private event, organized annually by Antonia Sautter, an Italian-German fashion and costume designer, is held on 22 February (see page 36).
Not just Venice A great alternative for those who are averse to crowds but still wish to participate in the collective ritual of the Venice Carnival, is the Island of Burano, renowned for its coloured houses and exquisite lace. The Carnival of
Emi Boutique
Burano is held from 20 to 23 February and has a quieter, more authentic atmosphere, with parades, entertainment for children, concerts, costumed pageants and floats. On 15 and 16 February, and from 20 to 25 February, Mestre, just a few kilometers from Venice, will celebrate Carnival with the Mestre Carnival Street Show. An event during which squares, streets and arcades are enlivened with a variety of performances, featuring musicians, acrobats and street artists who treat audiences to colourful, entertaining and original shows. On Saturday, 22 February, festivities kick off in Marghera with a procession of large floats carrying costumed revelers. Described as the ‘Garden City’ because it is one of the greenest areas of the Lagoon, Marghera, like Mestre is another small city located on dry land, just a few kilometers from Venice.
Traditional masks In Venice masks were so popular that around 1400 the artisans who made them were officially recognized with their own guild. These masks, made from papier-mâché decorated with jewels, fabrics and ribbons, were not only worn at Carnival but also throughout the rest of the year, including the feasts of the Republic and on Ascension and Boxing Day. Here’s a short guide that will allow you to distinguish between ‘tabarri’, ‘morette’ and ‘baute’. The Bauta is worn with a dark cloak known as a ‘tabarro’ and a black tricorn hat which is placed on the head, over the tabarro. It allowed wearers to eat and drink without ever having to remove it, meaning that they were thus able to retain their anonymity. Another mask that was popular in Venice was the Moretta: a black velvet oval mask that was the favourite disguise of
women. It was worn with a wide-brimmed hat and embellished with veils. Wearers kept it in place by biting on a small button found on the inside. The fact that it was a ‘mute’ mask helped to conceal the wearer’s identity. On the other hand, the Gnaga, was a mask used by men to dress up as women. The traditional Gnaga outfit includes the clothing worn by working class women and a mask portraying a female cat. It was often worn with a basket under the arm, which usually contained a kitten. Venetian masks are precious artisanal objects, ideal to take home as souvenirs. Numerous ateliers still make them according to ancient traditions. One of the most famous is Ca’ Macana, where you can go to admire them, purchase them, decorate your own or simply watch master artisans deftly creating them on-site (www.camacana.com).
Ca’ Macana
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GIFT
GUIDE We’ve compiled a short guide offering ideas for him and her. A great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments browsing the essential destinations for luxury shopping or romantic gift-giving.
▼ CHURCH'S This walnut Nevada calf leather belt is perfect for any occasion and can be paired with calf leather shoes in the same colour. The buckle, featuring the brand’s iconic reverse “D”-shape, is a distinctive element. www.church-footwear.com ▲ TIFFANY & CO. Inspired by the iconic key ring first introduced in 1969, the "Return to Tiffany" collection is a classic reinvented. This delicate duo of engraved tags on a simple link chain exudes sophistication and elegance. www.tiffany.it
► DAMIANI The solitaire, a ring with a single diamond, is the engagement ring par excellence, one of the most powerful expressions of the Maison’s jewelry-making tradition. This “Minou” model is crafted in white gold with a single central diamond. www.damiani.com
▲ BURBERRY A 1990s streetwear staple revived in a Vintage check pattern. This elegant accessory has smooth leather finishes and zip pockets. Carry it crossbody, by the strap or around the waist. it.burberry.com
▲ HUGO BOSS "Chelsea" boots crafted from calf leather with a natural grain. Built on a rubber sole filled with EVA for lightweight comfort, they are lined in an Outlast® fabric for optimum breathability. Elastic gores and pull-loops make them an easy-to-wear option for smart-casual looks. www.hugoboss.com
◄ CHANEL This classic "Rouge Coco" lipstick has been reinvented with a new moisturizing, nourishing formula based on three vegetable waxes – mimosa, jojoba and sunflower. The new palette features 24 shades, each named after Mademoiselle Chanel’s closest friends. www.chanel.com
► FURLA This mini crossbody bag in quilted leather is both elegant and fun. Distinguishing features include its typical rounded shape, its practical zip closure and its adjustable leather shoulder strap with side chain inserts. Available in Onyx, Lipstick Strawberry, Dalia and Pearl. www.furla.com
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gondola
All about the
18 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 − metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized
oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier
– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).
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Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from
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The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms
Bassano del Grappa
Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the Castle of Miramare in Trieste offering a charming panoramic view and the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, a Renaissance marvel.
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Verona
of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence.
Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one
Trieste, Castle of Miramare
Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: the port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the
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One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.
late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
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An ode to imperfection Located in the beating heart of Venice, the Pandora Concept Store welcomes customers into a precious world of jewelry. The ideal place for those in search of a romantic gift. By Giulia Minero
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ince 1982, Danish brand Pandora has been synonymous with precious jewelry and silver charms, to highlight all looks, from the most casual to the most elegant. Pandora has two outposts in Venice, a boutique in Merceria II Aprile, near the Rialto Bridge, and a Concept Store, located just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Here, amidst minimalist furnishings painted in shades of white, jewelry takes centre stage. Those wishing to surprise their significant other with a gift on Valentine’s Day should head to the store to browse this season’s latest offerings. Pandora celebrates love during the most romantic month of the year with a new collection of heart-shaped rings, 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
earrings, pendants and charms, plus new clips for the Pandora Reflexions bracelets. To echo the words of the brand’s creative directors, Francesco Terzo and A. Filippo Ficarelli “Hearts are an essential part of Pandora’s DNA and a visual element that we have always loved using.” The jewelry, interpreted in two versions, in Sterling 925 silver or in Pandora Rose with a powder-pink nuance embellished with cubic zirconium, shiny metals and a relief logo, is an ode to imperfection. The shape of the hearts is deliberately designed to be imperfect, to reflect the diversity of shapes and visions that make each love story unique and unrepeatable.
>> Pandora Concept Store San Marco, 212/217-Mercerie dell’Orologio T: 041 3194484. Map F4 www.pandora.net
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
The
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING - This directory, grouped
by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 24. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to oress but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.
Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2(San Tomà stop). Map D4
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS— Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
The ‘Mr. BURBERRY Indigo’ eau de toilette captures zesty and herbal notes of lemon oil, blackcurrant and rosemary, layered over violet, driftwood and spearmint.
MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
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CAL LE R IO LE D 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 ND TER Ecurtains. and place! L VO PASSION TIP A unique À BA LT O IS RBA FRU RAMO (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). TA R IO Since 1875, company has practiced the art DEL M CORTE the DEL ORA L POZETO T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria of weaving on original looms that once DE ORO Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA del Giglio or San Marco stop). belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia Map E5 R Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). alleria Internazionale and antiques, the mission of this VALMARANA A D highly qualified DEL PESTRIN CA A LL C O RT E San Lazzaro E NO d'Arte Moderna antique dealer is to keep the interest in VA www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. B ATA G I A R VA IS Ca’ D’Oro Le Zoie CO CORTE dei Mendicanti T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with stop). Map D3 CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the PASSION TIP This eclectic shop personality. Santi Apostoli city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but CAL TI OZ GAB LE on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI LI also specializes in collections that are unlikely to to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann be found elsewhere, including inspired C A M Pobjects IELLO Chiesa Evangelica N landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. C SAN CANCIANO D R IO A L L AN E M LE Luterana by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also ID SCU W O L Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. E E Al Duca d'Aosta LL CA known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30amCAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Originally established in Venice in 1902, S.MARIA NOVA 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. San CAMPO DELLA CAL (Rialto stop). Map F4 San Cassiano LAR Al DucaL Ed’Aosta now boasts stores in six AN PESCARIA GA C A N ZIT: 041 2758694. Polo, 1566 (Calle dei DBoteri) G. G A A SAN IN A S A LI ZA cities across theL LTriveneto region: Venice, Santa Maria R Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Antichità San Samuele IO CAMPO DE Padua, Verona, Mestre, TrevisoBasilica and Udine. dei The SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA I MI Map E3 An antiques dealer since the Seventies, R BECARIE San Giovanni Santilocation Giovanni AC CA historical four-storey Venice featurese Paolo C A LL OL LL E DE CAMPO Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research CAMPO ED I L FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI LL 100 top fashion for men and A’ ED MU SANTIbrands GIOVANNI GIÀ Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua CALLE CASTELover and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San EL TI LI DELLA A BO women, carefully selected Teatro Malibran E PAOLOto offer its clientele BELLA VIENNA TA Samuele specializes in religious antiques, Antique books and priceless prints focusing with CAMPO CA LL E DE LE elegance. These include Chiesa quality and casual SAN GIACOMETO dell’Ospe ER BE primarily on preservation and authentic a particular focus on sculptures dating from the C CORTE SECONDA DE AM men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE bookbinding methods. SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat PASSION TIP 13th through L NS O ON designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s BA RB AR IA DE LE TO di3130 RialtoSpecializes in 18th century illustrated books, DE I 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, LE CA Casa di RA wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the MP maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th O (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO SOL Samuele stop). Map E4 Fontego century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- latest collections, including small leather goods NUOVO line 2DEL (San and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan dei Tedeschi Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; NO VA CA RA aesthetic. The store offers numerous special Antichità Zanutto C. D LLE Sant’Aponal EL EL F D www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle D C E .M A ONT LP TA EGO RT IN IO M B O facilities and services for its customers, EN ContinuingRUGaHElongstanding family tradition, Ponte GO della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line D. P SA CAL N G FO LE G ALL S CAMPO CORTE service and Tax E including a Personal IA Z Z A CAMPO N in IOVNDA CORTE Shopping the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San di Rialto O AN ME DO TREVISAN ZA 1 or 2LIZ(Rialto Map E4 CAMPO DEL NI NT ER SAN APONAL SAN stop). BORTOLOMIO DA LA A LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO RA Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Marco to open his workshop specializing in DE CAMPO NO X E LL A SAN LIO C Rialto Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San antique paintings, with Silvestro a particular focus on CAMPIELLO PIELLO San CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI IZ DE ADA Artisanal weavers specializing in the production Marco,FONDAMENTA 4945. T:FORMOSA 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO DEI PRETI ALIA fabrics for furnishings ZZO (Rialto stop).Santa Map F4 Maria certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat Fontego 10.30am- CALLE of exquisite, decorative CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
26 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
C. D EL
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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
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S. Marco (Vallaresso)
La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON
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San Giorgio dei Greci
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San Giovanni di Malta
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Palazzo Ducale
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Palazzo Querini Stampalia
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SHOPPING FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet
The “Millefiori Murano” glass bowl by ERCOLE MORETTI features an harmonious combination of evocative colours. One of the artist’s typical Venetian creations on-sale at the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store.
Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4
DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the starshaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Damiani A reference point in the world of highend jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has
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ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO
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Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
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FREZZERIA
BOTERI
SESTIERE
ORESI
DEL
CAOTORTA
Santa Maria del Giglio
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
CALLE
CALLE CAPPUZZI
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
DE
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
SABION
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
San Fantin
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
ALLO
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
San Maurizio
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
ZATTERE
DEI
PISCINA
CROSERA
Santo Stefano
FALIER
San Vidal
FONDAMENTA
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
FONTEGO
PIO
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
MAZZINI CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
FONDAMENT
LARGA
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
BOTEGHE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
CAL
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
TEATRO
MARCO
CAFETIER
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN
DEL
DEL
VENIER
CALLE
RAVANO
San Silvestro
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
NOVA
PARANGON
DEL
RUGHETA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
Giudecca Hilton
PRIULI
Santa Sofia
STRADA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
RUGA
DEL
CARROZZE
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
VOLTI
CALLE
SARTORI
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
BOTA
Sant’Aponal
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
CA’
ZEN
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
SAN
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
FABBRICHE
CALLE
LE
LE
CATENE
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CATERINA
LE
TRAGHETTO
DE
CALLE
DE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
FONDAMENTA
LA
DEL CALLE
nde
NARISI FOND.
CROSERA
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE BERNARDO
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
DE DE
CARAMPANE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
NOVE
CALLE
SANTA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
S. SALIZADA
LONGO
E
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
MORETTI
CALLE CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN APONAL
DEL
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
DE
A
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
CARAMPANE DE
Gra
Palazzo Fortuny
SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO
VECCHIA
LEZZE
PONTE
Abazia della Misericordia D I
R
TRAPOLIN
STUA
PERDON
CA’ CORTE
Accademia
FOND.
ZATTERE
O
LA
CALLE
TIOZZI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
CALLE RAMO
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
DE OGNISANTI
AL
DEI
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
San Barnaba
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
FODAMENTA
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
CANAL RIO TERA’
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
ER
San Felice
S.Stae
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
MADONA
ROSSA
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
IS
TA
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
SCALETER
San Tomà
DORSODURO
BESAGIO
M
FONDAMEN
VENDRAMIN
DEL
DE
DEL
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
FONDAMENT
VENEZIA
TA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
C.
EN
CALLE
DE LA
CAZZIOLA
Rio
SAN
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
DE
FORNO
FONDAMENTA BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
D
CA'
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
ZANE
CROSERA
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
N
TA
SAN
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMEN
RAMO
Rio Nuovo
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
SALIZADA
CALLE CHIESA
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
DEL
TABACCHI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
S. Basilio
DELLA
NA
Santa Fosca
CALLE
NUOVA LARDONI
C.
CA
NA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
LE
ALE
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
PRETI
L’ASEO
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
NIE
DD
DE
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
DE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TERÀ
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
.DA
MA
TRON
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CALLE
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
PAPADOPOLI
DE L’OGIO
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
C.
DE
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
À D E
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
LA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
FO de Servi N
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
TINTOR
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SALIZADA
CALLE
Misericordia
FO
CALLE
L’ISOLA
DEL
FON.
CALLE
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
DE
DE LA VIDA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
SCHI
NICOLO’ SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TERA’
RAMO
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
CALLE ORSETTI
TA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE
MINOTTO
Magazen
della
TER
CALLE
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN
CANAL CORTE
LUNA
Rio
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
Rio
La Maddalena
NOVA
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMA
SIMEONE
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
CERERI
IA
RIO
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
FONDAMEN
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
DEI
RD
R
STRADA
BIASIO
DI
BARI
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
FONDAMENTA
DEI FONTEGHERI
ICO
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
VECCHIO
C.
NUOVA
RIZZI
PROCURATIE
LARGA
PONTE
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
LISTA
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
CALLE TRAGHETTO
RIVA FONDAMENTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
MIS
E DEL PISTO
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
MUNEGHE
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO CALLE
CALLE
NA
Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
TA
Rio
CALL
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
NUOVE
CROCE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
CALLE
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
SE
RDIA
CROCE
CALLE
AM
I
A E M
MISERICO
TO
LER
LL
LA
RIO
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
DEI
TERÀ
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
nde l Gra Cana
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Rio
DE
TI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
EN
FO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
TRONCHET
AM
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
SAVORGNAN
CALLE DEI FUSERI
PU
San Girolamo
A
San Geremia
SALONI
CA
C.
FO
LE
O
SPAGNA
AI
DE
AM
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
DI
ZATTERE
TA
OL
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT
LISTA
FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
EN
LLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
AM
N G IR
DEL
ND
SA
CAPITELO
CASE
TA
CALLE
FO EN
TE
TERÀ
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CALLE
TA
QUERIN,
BECCARIE
EN
CAVALLET
CA
CALLE
AI
CALLE
LE
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
PRIULI
SEBASTIANO
FORNER
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
BRAGADIN
DEL
DE
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
GIOBBE
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
della
CARLO
FO
A
San Giobbe
VENIER FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENT
TO
DEL SABION
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
TRONCHET
FONDAMENTA
LARGA
FONDAMENT
A
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
DEL
CORTE
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
NOVA
FONTEGO
ER
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
B
ISOLA
LA
Parco
LI
People Mover Venezia
SALITA
LA
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
NANI
EL
CANOSSIANE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FOSCARINI
LE
FONDAMENTA
A
TERRÀ
VI
LE
ER
DE
B
TO
COLORATA
Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENT
LI
O
MURANO CALLE
LA
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
EL
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
D
del
LE
CALLE
A
Rio
VI
PORTO MARGHERA
CALLE
The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.
TORCELLO
FONDAME
home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
DI
As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp
FONDAMENTA
Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.
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SHOPPING captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Tips to purchase Murano glass
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia. eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215.
Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4
Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4
Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neoGothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just
The ‘Papavero’ bag from the ‘Flower’ collection by MICHELE DE FINA highlights the golden leaf pattern, an ancient Venetian technique used to decorate leather.
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
DINING
Venetian cuisine with a catch of the day Located in the sestiere of San Polo, the Antiche Carampane continues to be anchored to traditional Venetian cuisine, with a focus on the catch of the day, upgraded with a touch of creativity. By Chiara Zaccarelli
J
ust steps from the Rialto Bridge, at the Antiche Carampane, you can sample traditional Venetian cuisine. The highlight of the menu is fresh fish, accompanied by seasonal vegetables. The produce featured on the menu is sourced from the nearby Rialto market. Run by the Bortoluzzi family since 1982, at this must-visit eatery, traditional cuisine is revisited with that touch of creativity that makes it contemporary and appealing. Standouts include ‘Poenta e Schie’, soft polenta topped with local grey shrimp, spaghetti with spider crab or tagliolini with a sauce called ‘cassopipa’, a peasant dish made with lightly spiced seafood. When it comes to the main courses, the classic ‘frittura mista’ (fried seafood) remains an absolute must (see photo). To end 30 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
your meal on a high note, make sure to indulge in one of the venue’s delicious homemade desserts. The wine list also features an astute selection of local wines with a focus on small producers and natural, organic labels. The name of the restaurant is associated with a singular anecdote of Venetian history. At the time of the Serenissima, the prostitutes who had decided not to affiliate with any brothel plied their trade in this area and were known as ‘carampane’. An authentic red light district that extended as far as the so-called ‘Ponte delle Tette’ (Bridge of Bosoms). The government of the Republic of Venice actually authorized these women to show their breasts to passersby to combat homosexuality, a widespread practice among Venetians at that time.
>> www.antichecarampane.com Rio Terà de le Carampane, 1911. T. 041 5240165. Map E4
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an
ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE 1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitanstyle cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or glutenfree flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Contemporary setting
The Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been re-imagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. A unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending twenty years in the USA, bringing a touch of globalization with him. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Hotel - Isola delle Rose. T: 041 8521300. www.jwvenice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
DINING
DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Martini
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!
€€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its Dorsoduro, 780rooms, (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto elegant dining welcoming atmosphere and line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Martini Map E6serves some of attentive staff, the Antico the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. La Conca d’Oro com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5 Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, Antico Pignolo this Venetian institution has been turning out The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. stop). Map F4 com. San Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant Da Fiore
is housed in a 15th century building and decorated A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topwith original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. conjures upyears the aroma of authentic Neapolitan Thirty-five ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin cuisine, thanks ingredients sourced transformed antoold osteria into one ofexclusively the city’s from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. Sanand most famous restaurants. Impeccable service Polo, 1022/bVenetian (Rio Teràdishes San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. superlative composed of carefully Vaporettoseasonal 1 (San Silvestro stop).have Mapmade E4 Da Fiore selected ingredients a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. Lineadombra www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Map E3 spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. Gran Canal www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, Here you can taste the typical specialties of 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto linethe 5.1purest (Zattere stop) or 1 Venetian tradition, featuring expression (Salute Map E5 The restaurant’s main focus is of tastestop). and harmony.
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
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on seafoodCipriani and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on Locanda its terrace: the faces directly Forevocative those who want to berestaurant close to Venice, onto theworlds Grandaway, Canalthe offering diners an excellent yet feel Locanda Cipriani opportunity to combine the pleasures of the is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
restaurant. A farmhouse fromturning the exterior, it of the Venetian institution has been out some has been with great- €€€ charm, exuding best pizzarenovated in town. € (pizzeria) (restaurant). an understated elegance with beautiful www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€.Vaporetto www. SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. locandacipriani.com. Piazzastop). Santa Fosca lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria Map F429 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 Lineadombra from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then Perched the Off last Map bridge of the most beautiful take the 9online). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Taverna al Remerdinner where you can enjoy all spot for a romantic Located near to theof Rialto Bridge, this romantic the typical flavours the Venetian lagoon. €€€. ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. decor, which lends it an intimate, touch. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 informal (Zattere stop) Although the menu features or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual Trattoria Do Forni pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. The ownerCannaregio, Eligio Paties5701. has managed to make this alremer.it. T. 041 5228789. restaurant a sought-after distinguished Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Orodestination, stop). by its F3 wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to Map the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of Trattoria Do Forni typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces Theremind owner Eligio has managed make will you ofPaties the carriages of thetolegendary this restaurant a sought-after destination, “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 fare, thanks to the quality of the dishesVaporetto and a (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. genuine typicallyMap Venetian line 1 or 2sense (San of Zaccaria). F4 hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute Wildner to the history of Fullin Venice. €€€. in www.doforni.it. San Opened by the family 1960, it is patronized Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 relaxed 5232148. by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, Vaporetto line or 2 (San Zaccaria). F4 atmosphere is 1further enhanced by Map a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Wildner and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Opened by‘Baccalà the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized including Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. by localsonand tourists €€€. alike.c/o Its Pensione tranquil, relaxed Closed Tuesdays. Wildner. atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 view Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly or 5.1over (Santhe Zaccaria stop). Map G4 fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Dal or 5.1Mas (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3
PASTRY SHOPS
Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. La Conca d’Oro www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, haute cuisine of this signature plays on the creative combinations of5227934. T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 LaThe Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilianrestaurant brothers Italian specialties traditional Venetian www.kempinski.com/it/venice Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 Giuseppe and Giovanniand Costa, the founders of the dishes. 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this
ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.
Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Map F5
Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5
Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Oro
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this
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enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but
Š #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET
Il Ridotto
Quadri
Glam
wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map
Venissa
Rosso Venissa
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Osteria da Fiore
ENTERTAINMENT
Carnival Rhapsody
A
dream within a dream. This is a perfect way to describe the Doge’s Ball, one of the most exclusive events of Venice’s magical Carnival. The idea of the Doge’s Ball was conceived in 1994 by fashion designer Antonia Sautter, whose love of luxury and personal quest for beauty inspired her to create this unique extravaganza. The Doge’s Ball is an artistic event, a jet-set party, and an unforgettable experience that gathers together guests from all over the world. What makes the ball unforgettable are the sumptuous costumes, the stunning masks, the performances by international artists and the elegance of the luxurious decorations studied down to the very last detail. Each year, Antonia Sautter chooses the theme of the Doge’s Ball inspired by her visual fantasies of sounds and 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
colours and her elaborate dreams, creating a surreal atmosphere that immerses participants in an interactive fantasy experience. For the 2020 edition, scheduled to be held on Saturday 22 February at the Scuola Grande della Misericordia, Antonia Sautter has chosen the theme of "Carnival Rhapsody Provocation, Redemption, Miracle”. An important claim that lends itself perfectly to the event, describing the essence of Carnival through the symbolism of a rhapsody, the freedom of interpreting a theme that has no formal structure, a series of different ideas and rhythms that allows everyone to tell their own story based on improvisation and creativity. >> For more information ask your concerge or visit: www.antoniasautter.it
"IL BALLO DEL DOGE"AT PALAZZO PISANI MORETTA, BY ANTONIA SAUTTER. PH © OSVALDO DI PIETRANTONIO
A ball enhanced by masks, costumes and spectacular performances, set in an exclusive Venetian location. An ideal opportunity to experience the opulence of 18th century Venice. By Chiara Zaccarelli
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www.teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS JW Venice Spa Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. Facilities include a stunning heated indoor vitality pool that extends outdoors through a
moveable glass wall, a sauna, bio-sauna, hammam and gym. Non-resident guests are welcome, and there is a dedicated JW Venice Spa dock for water taxis and boats arriving from across the lagoon. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa has been nominated the best hotel Spa in Italy and Europe at the "World Spa Awards 2019". c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www. kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary openair opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
Gambling and glamour The Casinò di Venezia, opened in 1638, is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of stately Renaissance home, both the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to top professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way to have fun. Situated on the first floor, the Wagner Restaurant offers the exclusive pleasure of refined dining with timeless delicacies and traditional Venetian fish specialities: three superb settings (the Sala Palma, Sala Gialla and Sala Rossa) are decorated with paintings and frescoes. And don’t miss the Marco Polo restaurant, ideal for a quick meal, offering creative trendy cuisine that includes Mediterranean and Venetian meat and fish dishes. www.casinovenezia.it/en. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop).
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A green oasis in San Marco The RoyaI Gardens of Venice were recently restored and returned to the city in all their original splendour thanks to an important restoration project by the Venice Gardens Foundation. By Giulia Minero
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ommissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 as a green space lying adjacent to the Procuratie Nuove – at that time the headquarters of the Royal Palace – and later embellished with greenhouses and neoclassical buildings during the reign of the Hapsburgs, the Royal Gardens have been one of the three public parks located near St. Mark’s Square since 1920. The recent restoration enriched the park’s geometric structure with tall trees, shrubs, herbaceous and bulbous plants and creepers, planted to interact with the ecosystem of the Lagoon and to provide the city with a green lung. The gardens feature a 90-meter pergola which has retained its original shape in cast iron without a roof, a drawbridge to connect the 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
gardens to the Procuratie and a large glass greenhouse. Located on the opposite side of the latter is another small greenhouse consisting of a central pavilion based on a circular plan connected to the ancient Cafehaus and to two other structures, one of which, The Human Garden, will be used for exhibitions and artistic events. The Neoclassical pavilion designed by Lorenzo Santi between 1816 and 1817 will be returned to its original function as a Coffee Pavilion. At the new illy Caffè customers can enjoy a range of illy’s culinary and cafeteria offerings throughout the day, from breakfast to aperitivo time. >> www.venicegardensfoundation.org
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.
Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection
of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it
SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.
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for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in
1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown
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jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
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Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and ® is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian M A G A Z I N E style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com and funerary monuments of numerous famous WHERE SRL WHEREITALIA ITALIA SRL Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. people, including Via ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. Milano. dei Frari. T: 041 T:chorusvenezia.org. 33107015 T:02 02349951 349951--Fax Fax 02 02Campo 33107015 info@where-venice.com 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com Map D4
1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still
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display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,
FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.
PUBLISHER PUBLISHERAND ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Andrea Jarach AndreaGiovanni Jarach Santi e Paolo (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e
EDITORIAL EDITORIAL Paolo is considered the Pantheon (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL) of Venice
because all the Venetian doges, starting from MANAGING DIRECTOR MANAGING DIRECTOR the 13th century, are buried here, together with DanieleMisrachi Misrachi Daniele numerous other notable personages. www. EDITORIALCOORDINATION COORDINATION basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi EDITORIAL AlessandraeFinzi Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra (redazione@where-venice.com) Giovanni Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in EDITORIAL Venetian STAFF dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on MAGAZINE Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto, www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi, (Fondamente Nove Elena stop,Simona Ospedale Civile stop). Simona P.K. Daviddi, Peverata, Vida Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida Map F3 MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale Scala Contarini del Bovolo WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Fonzi (coordination), Palazzo Contarini is Chiara an exquisite, late Gothic WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio (art Giulia Minero (editor) building. However, what makes it such a (editor) FabioLancini Lancini (art direction), direction), Giulia Minero redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com popular attraction today, was the addition, by ICONOGRAPHY Where® Italia, Dreamstime, its architects,Archivio in 1499, of an amazing, external ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: ©lace. Where Italia srl. - 2017 cylinder perforated like© TheItalia architectural CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban FileWhere - www.urbanfile.org beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by- Dmitry Goloub Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva10am-1.30pm/2pmCarolo, worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo,Renna, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele 6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Isa Faleschini, Paola ZannoniMarta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination Italy") Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo."Welcome San Marco,to4299 PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, Grilli SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Vaporetto linePaola 1 or 2Grilli (San Marco Vallaresso stop). COORDINATOR Map E4 ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) Scuola Grande dei Carmini LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) Housed in a 16th century Maria palazzo, it is the seat HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Granata of an ancient brotherhood and Granata all its original (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria
(maria.granata@where-venice.com) furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi have beenSERVICES preserved intact. The drama builds CUSTOMER Cristina Garbini, Valentina REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore when entering theALSala del Capitolo, whose WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010
ceiling nine exceptional canvases painted DIRETTORE features RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BYbrotherhood’s GRAPHICSCALVE SPAROCmost WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 by the famous member, LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. Although publisher has made PRINTED BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in the eventPONTE of thereFORMELLO, being any errors, oversights orDorsoduro, omissions, we would like to www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. LOCALITÀ 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG2616 apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Margherita). Although theissue. publisher has made every effort toSanta include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in(Ca’ theITALY next issue. IN Where®stop). is also published in Milan by Rezzonico Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl
IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Teatro La Fenice Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl Twice destroyed fire and restored EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP twice HOTELS and in Naples by by IES Comunicazione srl to
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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.
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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.
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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.
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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.
DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.
In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.
VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.
WHERE® VENICE Èsplendour DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI was MIGLIORI HOTEL DI its former (the last time between VENEZIA E DEL VENETO.
WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS
HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.
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IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental
PHOTO © LOIS GOBE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San
Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco
A hidden treasure Hidden in a maze of ‘calli’ and canals, just steps from Campo Manin, visitors will find an architectural gem featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a historic building of unmatched beauty that also owes some of its charm to the intrigue surrounding its namesake staircase. According to historic records, it was commissioned by Pietro Contarini towards the end of 1400 to Giovanni Candi, referred to in historical records as a ‘marangon’, meaning a carpenter as opposed to an architect. This would explain the architectural inconsistencies of the building, which are quite noticeable when climbing the staircase. Mysteries aside, those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the top of this 26m ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city.
42 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE
| SIGHTSEEING
www.teatrolafenice.it
A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
PH © MICHELE CROSERA
Palazzo Ducale
■ BALLET 5, 7, 8, 9 February “Duse” with Alessandra Ferri-The Hamburg Ballet John Neumeier Charles Edwards, sets John Neumeier, Lighting & Costumes Luciano Di Martino, conductor ■ MUSIKàMERA 12 February at Sale Apollinee “Emanuil Ivanov” Music by Ludwig van Beethoven, Maurice Ravel, Modest Mussorgsky Emanuil Ivanov, piano ■ OPERA 13, 14, 15 February at Malibran Theatre “La serva padrona” (Opera Giovani) by Giovan Battista Pergolesi With the Orchestra barocca del Conservatorio Benedetto Marcello di Venezia Francesco Bellotto, director Enrico Parizzi, first violin Massimo Checchetto, sets Carlos Tieppo, costumes 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25 February “Elisir d’amore” (“The Love Potion”) by Gaetano Donizzetti At the end of the opera: DJ-set and cocktail buffet on Thursday 20 at 7pm and on Sunday 23 at 5pm Opera + cocktail ticket from 135 to 290 euros. For reservation: info@festfenice.com or +39 041786672.
■ OTHER 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 February Fantasmagorie. Vita, morte e miracoli di Pulcinella A performance of images inspired by Giandomenico Tiepolo’s works Michele Modesto Casarin, director Marco Gnaccolini, dramaturgy Alberto Maron, composer and conductor ■ MUSICA CON LE ALI 26 February Martin Owen, Fabiola Tedesco and Margherita Santi Music by Beethoven and Sándor Ligeti Martin Owen, horn Fabiola Tedesco, violin Margherita Santi, piano 27, 18 February at Sale Apollinee Nevermind Ensemble Music by J. S. Bach and C. E. Bach Anna Besson, flute Louis Creac’h, violin Robin Pharo, viola da gamba Jean Rondeau, harpsichord ■ CONCERT 29 February and 1 March “Harmut Haenchen conduct Beethoven” Laura Aikin, soprano Anke Vondung, mezzo-soprano Brenden Gunnell, tenor Thomas Johannes Maye, bass Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master
The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
I
talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I F E B R UA R Y 2020
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
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ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
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FORNI
L’ARSENAL DE
CALLE DEL FORNO
COLONNE CALLE
MAGGIORE
NI
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
United States Pavilion
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MURAZZO
GIUSTINA
PE
ISEPO
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EMB
CALLE ZORZI
FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO
EP
SAN
PALUDO
E IV NOV
CALLE
SALIZADA
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TERÀ
CALLE
SAN GIORGIO
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LA
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AR
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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
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LI
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Rio d el Giardini
dei Rio
DE LA PIETA’
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CALLE
CORDONI DEI STELLA
CALLE CALLE
STELLA
SQUERO
CALLE
DEL CALLE
TESTA DE
LA
Rio
Dei
BANDI
MENDICANTI
FONDAMENTAMendicanti
CALLE NAVE
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LA DE
DEL
FRUTARIOL
C.
PARADISO
DEL
DEL
CALLE
C.
CALLE
SANT’ANTONIO
CALLE
BALBI
C. DE LA MADONETA
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BO
DEL CALLE
DONZELLA C.
CALLE
BRESSANA
CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE
CORONA
DELLA
C.
LEONARDO
LA SACRESTIA
C. CORONA
CALLE RIMPETTO
ALBANESI
CALLE DE LE RASSE
CALLE DEL
STAGNERI
NUOVE
CALLE
LA DE
a
CALLE
DE
CATERINA
L’ABAZIA Misericordi
CAMPO
SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
MISERICORDIA FOND.
RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
CALLE
I ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIULI
DO
FOORNO
Ca’
GA
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE DE
LE
CALLE
APOSTOLI
CALLE
PISTOR
SANTI
DEL
VERDI
CALLE
C.SANT’ANTONIO
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
SOFIA
SANTA
CAMPO
BOMBASEI
APRILE II
CALLE
MERCERIA
LOVO DEL CALLE
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
SALIZADA
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
DRIO
CANNAREGIO
CALLE DEI FUSERI
SALONI
E
LL
FONDAMENTA
GRANDE
GI
N
RIO
AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
DELLE
I CASE
CASE
CAPITELO
FONDAMENTA
DEL
PIAVE
CALLE
LARG
CALLE BECCARIE LE DE CALLE
C. ROSA
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
LARGA
CALLE
VECCHIA
ETTI,
TI,
LA
CALLE
FA R S
ET
CALLE
DE
DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
RS RÀ
CALLE
FA
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TE
CAMIN
RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
PESARO
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
TREVISAN
SAN CALLE
TRAGHETO
FONTEGO
MEGIO
DEL
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
DEL
SALITA
CALLE
C.
STAE
FORNO DEL
SAN
D’ORO
CA’
LUCIA
C.
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZADA
ROSA
SANTA
CALLE
GRUE
DEL
LE DE
CALLE
CARMINATI
CAMPANIEL
PICCOLO
REGINA LA
SALIZADA
DEL
FONDAMENTA
SIMON
DE
CALLE
BOTERI
DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA DE
DE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
CALLE
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CALLE
ROCCO
SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI
CALLE
MUNEGHE
LE DE
CALLE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE
DEL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
SANGIANTOFFETTI
EREMITE
FONDAMENTA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
FONDAMENTA NANI
FOSCARINI
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
CALLE
DA PONTE
FONDAMENTA
ra
CALLE
LL
CA
SANT'ELENA
MP
CA
O
CA
GE
JUNGHANS
Rio
N
NO
SA
I
TA
Le Zitelle
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Parco delle Rimembranze LL
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EN
TI
AM
C
D
BO
N
LI
LL
SA
TE
BB
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TA
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EN
NT
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AM
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LL
IN
ND
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CA
C.
OC
Santa Croce
VIALE PIAVE
CR
RD
CALLE
SA
CALLE
IA
PONTE
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
G
CALLE
EN
E
CORTE
AM
ND
AL
FIANCO
FO
CAMPO SAN ISEPO Giardini
S. Giorgio
VI
SAN GIACOMO
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
ALDI
CALLE
O
ACCADEMIA
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IST
LL
Lungo
CE
R L C
IB PE GAR
DE
NA
ION
FONDAMENTA
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
C.
RI
MA
BB
IAN
RE
TA
ROSA
SALAMON
CALLE
SA
RI
CO
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
O E ANC
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
CALLE
COPPO
SCHIAVONA
AR
CALLE CORERA
CALLE
M
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
SANT'ANNA
SE
C A L L E C ATA PA N
TE
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CALLE TERCO
F O N D A M E N TA
OSPIZIO
CALLE
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
AN
CALLE
I
EL
CALLE
de le
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
CH
FONDAMENTA
LE
San Francesco di Paola BALD CALLE
I S ET
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
DE
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
EN
CROCE
MI
Ponte
ENA
COLTRERA
CALLE
CALLE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE FRIZIER
AM
DELLA
E
ERBE
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
VA
C. LOREDANA
ND
CALLE
LL
LE
E N TA
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
FO
CALLE ALBERO
DE
RAMO DE
Punta della Dogana
FO
Redentore
O
Santissimo Redentore
CALLE MORE
del
AMEN
TANA
CALLE
SAN GI ACOM
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
FOND
DE LA
CROSERA
M E N TA
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
VIDA
CALLE
PICCOLO
LA
CASTELLO
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
DI
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
CALLE DELA CREA
Zitelle
IA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
San Martino
DEI FORNI
PIETRO
FEM
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
Arsenale di Venezia RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
MOROSINA
SAN
'EU
MARTIN
PESTRIN
CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
FORNACE
SALONI
NT
SCUOLA
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
GRITTI CALLE
C. VOLTO
TERRÀ
SA
CALLE
CALLE
CROSERA
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
CATECUMENI
RIO
TA
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE DE
SAN PISCINA
PIGNATER
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo
Giudecca Palanca EN
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
DEL PIOVAN
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
AM
DE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
ND
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
S C H I AV
BASTION
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
FO
COSMO
ANTONIN
DE
ZATTERE
FO
Sant'Eufemia
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
R I VA D EGLI S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SCUDI
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
100 m
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
DEL
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TERRÀ
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
DEGLI
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
VERONA
RIO
CALLE
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
C.
LA
MINELLI
PISCINA
DEL NOVA ISOLA
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
Scomenze
MARITTIMO
Canale
De
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
O
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DE
San Gregorio
CALLE
DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
ZORZI
DRASI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DE LE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CALLE
DEI
DEI
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RC
SALIZADA
C.
LATERANO
SEVERO
a
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
DEL
PISCINA
VERONA
A N M
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SA
MEZO
DE CALLE
RUGA
DIREZIONE
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE
NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
Palazzo Ducale
LO
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
DEL
SAN
O
SCHIAVONI
DEGLI
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE
LARGA
CALLE
RC
CALLE ERIZZO
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
MO
RIVA
Rio San Lorenzo
CALLE
DEL FORNO
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
G. GALLINA
DEL
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
Museo Correr
FONDAMENTA
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
PIA
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
SAN
FABBRI
LARGA
LARGA
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
SALIZADA
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
ORBI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
BERLENDIS
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
DEI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
DEL
San
CALLE
Rio
LA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
NOVE
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
CALLE
BEMBO
CALLE
DE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
SAN
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
DEI
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
Ca' Giustinian
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
RIO
GIAZZO
CAMPO
SALIZADA
SAN
DELLE
CARRO
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAL RAMO
S.Canciano
CALLE
SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
DEL
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
REMER
CALLE
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
MAGAZZINI
VOLTI
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
MAGAZEN
FRUTARIOL
CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
O DEL
CINQUE
RIO
CALLE
AI
DEI
C.
DEL
FREZZERIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
COCCO
TOSCANA
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
DE
MOISE’
CALLE
DE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
LUCA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
RI
Palazzo Genovese
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE
Stazione
ORESI
MADONA
SAN
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
MAZZINI
San Salvador
TEATRO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
TEATRO
CALLE
CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
DEL
DELLA
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
SAN CALLE
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
FABBRICHE
CALLE
DOLERA
SPIRITO
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
LE
CALLE
zera
CATERINA
CALLE
GALIZZI
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
ALLO
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
SANTA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
Giudecca Hilton
CATENE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
ZATTERE
VAPORETTO
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
NARISI
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
AI GESUATI
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
STURION
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LE
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
ZATTERE
DEL
LA
CAMPO DE LA
DEL SOL
DEL
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
C.
FOND.
SAN
CROSERA
San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE
VENDRAMIN
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
CALLE
CALLE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal PERDON
CALLE
de r an
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
LA
CARAMPANE
DEL
DEL
FONDAMENTA BONLINI
LE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
DE
DE
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
CA'
DEL
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
SESTIERE
S.
CARROZZE
al G
Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
TRAGHETTO
DE
O
San Felice
TIOZZI
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Can
DEL
FOND.
PONTE
IC
CALLE
DEI
DE
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
Accademia
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
ER
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE RAMO
CALLE
S. Samuele
FALIER
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
IS
TRAPOLIN
DE
Santa Fosca
S.Stae
DE
SCALETER
Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
M
FONDAMENTA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
DEL
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
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Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
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La Maddalena
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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
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Madonna
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Rio Nuovo
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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
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Chiesa di Ognissanti
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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
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San Giacomo dall'Orio
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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
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Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
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San Sebastiano SALIZADA
San Simeone Profeta
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CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
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Angelo Raffaele
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Madonna dell'Orto
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Museo Ebraico CAL
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Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
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Santa Maria di Nazareth
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People Mover Venezia
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People Mover Venezia
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San Girolamo
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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
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Parcheggio Bus Turistici
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Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
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Santa Maria delle Penitenti
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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
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7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
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San Martino
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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
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San Giorgio dei Greci
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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4
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Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice VENIC Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – E CITY GUIDE Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Carniv al Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)
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