Wanted in Rome - July and August 2025 by Wanted in Rome

EDITORIALS

MISCELLANY WHAT'S

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini

EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9

PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl

IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari

STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/06/2025 Wanted in Rome advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

24 EXHIBITIONS

ROME’S NEW PIAZZA AUGUSTO IMPERATORE

6 WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS SUMMER: A QUICK GUIDE

32 curltural news

ROME’S NEW PIAZZA AUGUSTO IMPERATORE

CITY UNVEILS A NEW PIAZZA AROUND THE MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS

Andy Devane

Rome’s new-look Piazza Augusto Imperatore, the public square around the Mausoleum of Augustus in the heart of the city centre, was inaugurated in June by mayor Roberto Gualtieri.

The new pedestrian area in the shadow of the landmark site, the largest circular tomb

of the ancient world, was opened to the public after five years of construction work, in a major project that dates back two decades.

The tomb of Rome’s first emperor and its surrounding piazza have been at the centre of parallel restoration and redevelopment

The new-look Piazza di Augusto Imperatore was designed by Francesco Cellini.

Urban Renewal

works in a €35 million project overseen by the city’s archaeological superintendency.

Under the plans drawn up by architect Francesco Cellini, the winner of an international design competition in 2006, the city has reorganised the public space around the landmark monument.

Cellini’s plan involved integrating the mausoleum into an urban context by making the surrounding spaces fully usable and resolving the disparity in height between the Mausoleum and the square, originally designed by Vittorio Morpurgo in the 1930s. The new square features two wide graded

slopes in travertine - one towards Via di Ripetta, the other towards the church of San Carlo al Corso - connecting the current street level with the original level of the mausoleum.

A large info point and cafeteria space has been created at the southern end of the piazza, which is located between Via del Corso and Richard Meier’s Ara Pacis Museum.

The overall cost of the project is €35 million, of which around €28 million was financed by the city of Rome along with the contribution of €6 million from the TIM Foundation.

Aerial view of the new piazza and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Photos by Monkeys Video Lab.

WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS SUMMER: A QUICK GUIDE

BEST EVENTS AND THINGS TO DO IN ROME THIS MONTH

Rome hosts a multitude of summer festivals and open-air cultural events, including film screenings, live music and opera under the stars. Here’s a quick guide to the best events happening in the Eternal City over summer 2025.

Opera

Rome’s summer opera festival returns to the majestic ruins at the Baths of Caracalla, with opera classics as well as dance performances and concerts by rock and pop singers. Highlights include Verdi’s La Traviata and Bernstein’s West Side Story, while a novelty this year will be performances of Handel’s Resurrection and Mozart’s Don Giovanni in the Basilica of Maxentius.

Cinema

Open-air film festivals include the hugely popular Cinema in Piazza, held in Traste-

vere’s Piazza San Cosimato and two other locations in the suburbs, showing films in their original language versions and hosting special guests from the world of cinema.

A number of smaller open-air film festivals are held in neighbourhoods around the city every summer, with outdoor screenings taking place at Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese from 9 June until September.

Also making a return is Roma Cinema Arena, the large 1,000-seat open-air theatre at the Parco degli Acquedotti, until 24 July.

Literature

An international literature festival takes place over six evenings from 8-16 July in the beautiful setting of the Palatine Hill with award-winning writers reading from texts written specially for the occasion.

Videocittà at the Gazometro in Ostiense.

Rock and pop

Rome serves up an eclectic mix of rock and pop concerts in July and August thanks to the city’s two main live music festivals, Roma Summer Fest at the Auditorium Parco della Musica – with a diverse line-up including Sting and Nick Cave – and Rock in Roma at the Ippodromo delle Capannelle – with The Smashing Pumpkins among the many acts.

The Circus Maximus and the Stadio Olimpico host several concerts each over the summer the Teatro Romano in Ostia Antica will present a series of summer concerts, dance performances and stand-up comedy.

Jazz

Jazz fans can enjoy outdoor performances by Italian and international jazz musicians at the Casa del Jazz, as well as nightly jazz and swing concerts in the park at Villa Celimontana.

Classical

The Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia presents a series of classical concerts including Carmina Burana (17 July) at the Auditorium’s Cavea arena. Classical music concerts also take place against the magnificent backdrop of the Theatre of Marcellus as part of the Concerti del Tempietto programme.

The Accademia Filarmonica Romana hosts a summer music festival in its gardens until 10 July, with concerts featuring classical music from the Baroque and the 20th century up to the contemporary and modern repertoire, including forays into film music, jazz, pop and the avant-garde.

Social

Lungo il Tevere is a popular event held every night along the banks of the river Tiber with pop-up restaurants, bars, markets, live music and cultural events until 24 August. Museums

Rome’s national and city-run museums open their doors free of charge on the first Sunday

of each month, with the next two appointments falling on 6 July and 3 August.

Some of the big summer exhibitions include Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini (until 6 July), Dolce&Gabbana at Pala Expo (until 8 Aug) and Flowers at the Chiostro del Bramante.

Audiovisual

Videocittà, the festival exploring the most advanced forms of audiovisual and digital art, will be held at the Gazometro in Ostiense from 3-6 July. The festival comprises three days of video art, talks, live music, dj sets, videomapping and performances by leading audiovisual artists.

Religion

Last but not least, the city lays on some impressive religious pageantry over the summer. The Festa de’ Noantri procession sees a bejewelled statue of the Madonna paraded through Trastevere on 20 July, returning by boat along the river Tiber nine days later.

Festa de’ Noantri

However the most unusual religious event involves a snowfall during the height of summer outside the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, where Pope Francis is buried. On the night of 5 August the city relives a fourth-century miracle with the surreal spectacle of snow-like foam falling from the sky, accompanied by live music by the Carabinieri band.

For more details of events see the What’s On in Rome section of our website, www.wantedinrome.com.

Il Cinema in Piazza film festival in Trastevere.

TOP 10 Beaches

BEACHES NEAR ROME

For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, o ers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We also highlight the beaches that have been awarded Bandiera Blu (Blue Flag) status in 2025 for meeting the international quality standards for cleanliness.

S. MARINELLA

The northern-most beach on our list o ers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

S. SEVERA

Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE

A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to ock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli o er free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get o at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO

These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping rst at Anzio ( Blue Flag 2025) and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

SABAUDIA

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. Blue Flag 2025.

S. FELICE CIRCEO

Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it de nitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get o at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Blue Flag 2025.

TERRACINA

Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get o at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Blue Flag 2025.

SPERLONGA

The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get o at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Blue Flag 2025

GAETA

This area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get o at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it. Blue Flag 2025.

Sabaudia

S. Marinella

Pools

TOP 10

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME

Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Mon-Sun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Fri €50, Sat-Sun €60. 10- entry subscription €300. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€

2. BELLE ARTI

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON

This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-with-a-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily. Weekdays €80 (adults) & €40 (children 6-11 years). Sat-Sun and bank holidays €150 (adults) & €75 (children 6-11 years). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www.cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI

Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00. Weekdays €13, half-day €9, weekends €20, half-day €13. Kids 3-6 years €6. Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI

A large tennis club with an outdoor pool o ering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 10.00-18.30. Three time slots 10.00-14.00, 12.00-16.30, 14.00-18.30. Adults €9 (per time slot), kids €6. Full day adults €12, kids €8. Sat-Sun 09.00-19.30. Time slots 09.00-14.00, 14.30-19.30 (Sat only 12.00-16.30). €11 adults, €9 kids. Full day adults €16, kids €12. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO

Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00,

weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

7. HYDROMANIA

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacic-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €19. Half day rate €15. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE

Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Open daily 9.00-19.00. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €20, €16 half-day. Kids 3-12 years €8 per day. Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI

All-inclusive treatment at an enviable location in the heart of Rome. A tranquil rooftop pool overlooks Piazza della Repubblica. Access to the gorgeous pool requires booking a spa package that comes with a 50-minute massage. Daily 10.00-18.00. Prices from €150. Piazza della Repubblica 47, tel. 06489381. €€€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA

Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Open daily 10.00-18.30. Mon-Fri €10, €8 half-day, weekends €11, €9 half-day. Kids 4-8 years €8 per day. Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi

Piscina delle rose

Pools

TOP 10

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

2. BELLE ARTI

Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €20. Sat-Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day / €15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI

5. SPORTING CLUB OSTIENSE

The summer pool of the Sporting Club Ostiense has a 25-metre pool open daily from 08.3 until sunset. Two lanes are dedicated to free swimming, while the rest of the water space is available for bathing and for those who want to cool o and relax. The poolside bar kiosk is also open daily from 09.00 to 20.00, o ering drinks, snacks, sandwiches, ice cream, salads, fruit salads. Via del Mare 128, tel. 3924689914, www.sportingclubostiense.it. €€

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO

Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €35, weekend rate €50. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www.grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

7. HYDROMANIA

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacic-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.00. Daily adult rate €25, kids up to 12 years €19. Half day rate €16. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

8. CIRCOLO SPORTIVO VILLA DE SANCTIS

The outdoor pool is located inside the Villa De Sanctis park between Centocelle and Torpignattara. The pool is equipped with lifeguards, changing rooms with hot showers, picnic and refreshment area. Open daily 08.30-18.00 with option of half-day from 08.30-13.00 or 13.30-18.00. Half-day entry costs €10 (reduced 4-9 years €5). The whole day on weekdays costs €18 (sunbed included), while on Saturdays and holidays it costs €20 (lounger included). Via dei Gordiani 5, tel. 0624408515, www.villadesanctis.it. €€

9. HOTEL ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIDI

10. S.S.D. VITA

Hotel Anantara Palazzo Naidi

Sporting Club Ostiense

ARTandSEEK

English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco

special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri

with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco

Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and -

Cinecittà World

of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

Explora

creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting

Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Hortis Urbis

Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Nido

Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur

Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entr y fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Rainbow Magicland

divided into three categories: brave, ever yone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Zoomarine

other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.

from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi

Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense

This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense

Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

Pigneto

Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Prati

Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro

Quadraro

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.

NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.

Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.

S. Basilio

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro

Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio

Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coﬀee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia

Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS

Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS

Centrale Montemartini

Capitoline Museums

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Museo Napoleonico

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Colonna

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Palazzo Merulana

ROME’S

MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere

This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON

Dolce&Gabbana exhibition at Pala Expo. Devotion, photo Mark Blower. See page 25.

EXHIBITIONS

ELLIOT ERWITT: ICONS

28 JUNE-1 SEPT

Rome celebrates Elliott Erwitt, one of the world’s greatest masters of photography, with an exhibition comprising more than 80 images at Palazzo Bonaparte this summer. Erwitt, who died in 2023 aged 95, captured some of the most important moments in 20th-century history, from the meeting between Nixon and Khrushchev to the image of Jackie Kennedy at her husband’s funeral. Among the photographs on display in Rome are portraits of Che Guevara, Marlene Dietrich, Fidel Castro, Sophia Loren and the celebrated series of Marilyn Monroe. The exhibition also includes images which illustrate a sentimental side to the photographer, including a series devoted to his children and dogs. Son of Russian emigrants, Erwitt was born in Paris in 1928, but spent his childhood in Milan. In 1938 Erwitt and his family immigrated to the US, where he developed his interest for photography, becoming part of the prestigious

Magnum Photo agency in 1953. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

MARIO GIACOMELLI: THE PHOTOGRAPHER AND THE ARTIST

20 MAY-3 AUG

Rome marks the centenary of

the birth of the acclaimed Italian photographer Mario Giacomelli with an exhibition in his honour at Palazzo Esposizioni. The show, which will be held simultaneously with an exhibition in Milan dedicated to Giacomelli’s deep bond with poetry, is designed to celebrate the artistic and cultural legacy of one of Italian photography’s greatest masters. The Rome exhibition features around 300 original prints, many of which are unpublished and have never been shown publicly until now, examining the relationship between Giacomelli’s work and the contemporary visual arts. A room at the heart of the exhibition is devoted to the celebrated series Io non ho mani che mi accarezzino il volto [I have no hands caressing my face], which brought Giacomelli global fame in the early 1960s, including his timeless pictures of young seminarians. The exhibition also showcases a series of dialogues between the work of several masters of photography and art, including Afro Basaldella and Alberto Burri, Jannis Kounellis, Enzo Cucchi, Roger Ballen. Palazzo Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma.it.

Mario Giacomelli, Io non ho mani che mi accarezzino il volto.

Elliot Erwitt at Palazzo Bonaparte. USA. New York, 1974. © Elliott Erwitt.

DOLCE & GABBANA: DAL CUORE

ALLE MANI

14 MAY-13 AUG

Palazzo Esposizioni brings to Rome an exhibition celebrating the designs of Italian fashion house Dolce&Gabbana, following the show’s success in Milan and Paris. The Rome exhibition, which has been redesigned for its neoclassical surroundings, presents more than 200 unique creations by Dolce&Gabbana, emblematic of Italy’s Alta Moda style. Organisers describe the exhibition as “an open love letter to the Italian culture that has always been the inspiration and muse” of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s creations, tracing their creative process, from the heart to the hands. The immersive exhibition explores the brand’s creative and unconventional approach to luxury, described as “elegant, sensual and unique, but also ironic, irreverent and subversive”. Curated by Florence Müller with set design by Agence Galuchat, the show highlights the Italian cultural influences that inspire Dolce&Gabbana creations: from art to architecture, from artisanal craftsmanship to folklore, from music to opera, ballet, theatre and ‘la dolce vita’. The exhibition also includes the work of selected visual artists in dialogue with the iconic fashion house. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, www.palazzoesposizioniroma.it.

THE SPANISH STEPS, REVISITED

1 MAY-1 NOV

The Keats-Shelley House in Rome celebrates 300 years of the Spanish Steps with an exhibition of work by international artists and architects. Organised in collaboration with the American Academy in Rome and the British School at Rome, the show examines the 18th-century landmark from both a historic and contemporary perspective. The exhibition’s curators Luca Caddia and Fulvio Chimento, together with Ella Francesca Kilgallon and Carlotta Minarelli, invited contemporary artists and archi-

tects to present an alternative vision of the Spanish Steps. Designed by Francesco De Sanctis and built between 1723 and 1726, the Spanish Steps is one of Rome’s most loved landmarks, inspiring countless artists, movie directors, poets and writers. Alongside the new

“revisited” versions of the

the

presents rare architectural plans and engravings on loan from prestigious collections in Rome and the Vatican. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, www.ksh. roma.it.

Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti,

exhibition

DAL CUORE ALLE MANI. DOLCE&GABBANA | Architectural and pictural.

Photo: Michael Adair.

The Spanish Steps, Revisited. Elisabetta Benassi, 327 Steps, 2025.

GLOBAL BAROQUE: THE WORLD

IN ROME IN THE AGE OF BERNINI

4 APRIL-13 JULY

The Scuderie del Quirinale hosts an exhibition taking visitors on a journey through Rome in the Baroque period, a cosmopolitan city that was at the centre of a complex network of travels and relationships that transcended national and cultural borders. The works on display, by Baroque masters including Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Pietro da Cortona and Nicolas Poussin, reveal a wealth of references to Africa, America and Asia. This surprisingly multi-ethnic and multicultural world was populated by missionaries, diplomats and travellers who brought to Rome the colour, stories and cultural traditions of distant lands. The exhibition is organised with Galleria Borghese and with the participation and collaboration of prestigious national and international institutions and museums. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

CARAVAGGIO 2025

7 MARCH-20 JULY

An exhibition hailed as among

the most important and ambitious showcases ever of Caravaggio’s work opens in Rome to coincide with the Vatican’s Jubilee Year. Organisers say the exhibition at Palazzo Barberini comprises an “exceptional number” of paintings by the Baroque master whose full name was Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. The exhibited works include loans from prestigious national and international collections as well as two rediscovered masterpieces on display for the first time together and some new discoveries. Organised especially for the 2025 Jubilee Year, the exhibition illustrates how Caravaggio (1571-1610) shaped the artistic, religious and social landscape of his era. Exhibition curators Francesca Cappelletti, Maria Cristina Terzaghi and Thomas Clement Salomon say the show will include Caravaggio’s most celebrated works, as well as lesser-known paintings, and will highlight “the power and modernity” of his art. The exhibited paintings include the Portrait of Maffeo Barberini, recently put on public display more than 60 years after its rediscovery, as well as loans from outside Italy including Ecce Homo; Saint Catherine of Alexandria; Martha and Mary Magdalene; and Cara-

vaggio’s last painting, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, completed before the artist’s death aged 38. The exhibition also reunites three works commissioned by the banker and patron of the arts Ottavio Costa: Judith and Holofernes from Palazzo Barberini alongside two paintings on loan: Saint John the Baptist in the Wilderness and Saint Francis of Assisi in Ecstasy. The show is arranged into theme-based sections exploring various aspects of the artist’s career, including the evolution of his style and dramatic use of chiaroscuro. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.

FLOWERS: FROM THE RENAISSANCE TO ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE

14 FEB-14 SEPT

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante hosts a vibrant exhibition that celebrates the evocative power of flowers, from the Renissance to the age of artificial intelligence. Combining art, science and technology, the exhibition offers a journey through five centuries of art, culture and innovation, from the masterpieces of Jan Brueghel and Ai

Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini. I Bari, Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth.

Global Baroque at Scuderie del Quirinale. Pier Francesco Mola, Oriental Warrior, 1650, Parigi, Musée du Louvre.

Weiwei up to contemporary digital art. “Fragile and powerful, flowers speak a universal language capable of spanning centuries and cultures”, providing an inexhaustible source of inspiration for artists of all ages, organisers say. The exhibition comprises more than 90 works from prestigious institutions including Rome’s Galleria Borghese, the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Petit Palais and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The show also contains works from the botanical and scientific collections of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in London and the Museo Civico di Zoologia in Rome. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

SALVADOR DALI: TRA ARTE E MITO

25 JAN-27 JULY

The Museo Storico della Fanteria showcases works by Surrealist master Salvador Dalí and other European artists and writers linked to the Surrealism movement. Titled Between Art and Myth, the exhibition comprises around 80 works including paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, books and photographs, on loan from private collections in France and Italy. The exhibited works chart the development of Dalí’s career, from

the early days up to the final years of his life. Other artists and writers represented in the exhibition include René Magritte, Max Ernst, André Masson, Man Ray, Leonor Fini, Giorgio de Chirico, along with writers André Breton, Jean Cocteau and Louis Aragon. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 7. Mon-Fri 09.30-19.30. Sat-Sun

09.30 to 20.30. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@ navigaresrl.com.

FRANCO FONTANA: RETROSPECTIVE 13 DEC-31 AUG

Rome hosts a retrospective dedicated to the work of Franco Fontana, the Italian photographer best known for his brilliantly-coloured landscapes, at the Ara Pacis Museum. Described as “a celebration of geometric lines and an explosion of colours”, the exibition is billed as the first major retrospective devoted to the 90-year-old photographer from Modena. One of the greatest Italian photographers of the 20th century, Fontana’s photos have been used as cover art for jazz records and his vibrant style has been referred to as Photographic Trans-avantgarde. The Rome exhibition features more than 200 images, including American landscapes, cityscapes and and swimming pools as well as his iconic portrayals of the Appian Way and Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome. See cover of this edition. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

Franco Fontana at the Ara Pacis. Phoenix, Ariziona (1979).

Austin Young (Fallen Fruit). A sketch for “Temple of Flowers (Il Piccolo Paradiso)” 2025, commissioned by Chiostro del Bramante for the exhibition FlowersCourtesy Austin Young.

CINEMA

IL CINEMA IN PIAZZA

1 JUNE-13 JULY

The 11th edition of Rome’s free film festival Il Cinema in Piazza is under way this summer, screening movies under the stars and hosting special guests from the world of cinema. The 2025 edition of the

popular festival will show a total of 94 films on the big screen in four locations until 13 July together with numerous big-name guests. The festival returns to Piazza San Cosimato in Trastevere alongside Parco della Cervelletta and Monte Ciocci park in the suburbs, with seven events also being held at Cinema Troisi. Films are screened in their original language with subtitles in Italian, while Italian movies are shown with subtitles in English. In addition to special events, there

is a diverse programme of retrospectives and films dedicated to younger viewers. Festival organisers, the Piccolo America Foundation, say this edition is characterised by “a deep and passionate attention to subcultures and their cinematic representations”. Screenings are held at 21.15 every night except Monday and Tuesday, with programme details on Il Cinema in Piazza website, www.ilcinemainpiazza.it.

opera

CARACALLA FESTIVAL

29 JUNE-7 AUG

Rome’s opera house is staging its open-air summer festival at the Baths of Caracalla under the title “Between the Sacred and the Human,” comprising a diverse range of genres including opera, musicals, dance, sacred music and pop concerts. The festival opens officially on the feast of Rome’s patron saints Peter and Paul with a special event linked to the Jubilee Year at a new location: the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. The ancient venue, which dates to the fourth century, will host operatic productions for the first time, offering a “more intimate stage” ac-

cording to the festival’s director Damiano Michieletto. Central to the 2025 programme are four new productions: Handel’s Resurrection, Verdi’s La Traviata, Mozart’s Don Giovanni and Bernstein’s West Side Story, directed respectively by Ilaria Lanzino, Sláva Daubnerová, Vasily Barkhatov and Damiano Michieletto. The festival’s dance section will see the opera house’s ballet corps, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato, stage two contemporary classics:

Ravel’s Bolero directed by Maurice Béjart and Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du printemps with the choreography of Pina Bausch. Dance fans can also look forward to the traditional performance by Roberto Bolle and Friends. The programme closes with La Pasión según San Marcos by Argentine composer Osvaldo Golijov. Tickets for the festival are currently on sale at the box office of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma and online via www.ticketone.it.

Caracalla Festival. Photo Fabrizio Sansoni.

Il Cinema in Piazza

CULTURE NEWS

NEW LIBRARY OF ARCHAEOLOGY AND ART HISTORY

Italy’s new national Library of Archaeology and Art History, currently under construction in Rome, will offer free guided tours ahead of its scheduled opening late next year. The tours of Palazzo San Felice, part of the Quirinale presidential complex, take place every weekend until 28 December and must be reserved. The construction project, which dates to 2017, is being overseen by the Italian culture ministry and the state property agency. The new space for the Biblioteca di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte (BiASA) will be moved from Palazzo Venezia to its new location on Via della Dataria. Italy’s only national public library dedicated exclusively to art history and archaeology, with around 400,000 volumes, BiASA is the largest of its kind in the world. The plan by architect Mario Botta will convert the 19th-century building, which comprises 8,000-sqm of internal and external areas, into a public library with “14 km of shelves” to house books and manuscripts relating to art and archaeology. A highlight of the Cultura in Cantiere tours, which last about 45 minutes, is the opening of the Sepulcrum Semproniorum, a well-preserved tomb dating to the first century BC. For tour details about see official website, www.culturaincantiere.it.

SCULPTOR ARNALDO POMODORO DIES

The renowned Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro died on 22 June, a day before his 99th birthday. Pomodoro was celebrated internationally for his polished bronze orbs, fractured to reveal jagged interiors, which were placed in high-profile sites including the UN headquarters in New York and the Vatican Museums. “The passing of Arnaldo Pomodoro, a multifaceted and brilliant artist, leaves a great void in the world of art” – Italy’s president Sergio Mattarella said in a statement – “His impressive works, exhibited in the most important museums around the

world, have left an indelible mark on the history of contemporary sculpture. Italian prime minister Giorgia Meloni hailed Pomodoro, who died at his home in Milan, as “a master of sculpture who carved the soul of Italy”.

SUMMER NIGHT TOURS OF IMPERIAL FORA

Rome will open the Imperial Fora to visitors by night this summer, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday until 28 September, visits from 19.30 until last entry at 22.00. The entrance is from Piazza della Madonna di Loreto, via the Imperial Fora ticket office located near Trajan’s Column. A staircase leads down to the level of the archaeological area, while a lift is available for people with mobility difficulties. The one-hour guided tours are available in Italian and English for groups of up to 25 people, with visits every half an hour. The walking tour begins Trajan’s Forum before passing through the tunnel beneath Via dei Fori Imperiali to reach Caesar’s Forum with the remains of the Temple of Venus. The tour continues to the Curia, seat of the senate, and from there to the exit from Via Bonella onto Via dei Fori Imperiali, near Largo Corrado Ricci. For ticket details see the Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali website, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

Andy Devane

Arnaldo Pomodoro sculpture at the Vatican Museums. Photo: Kiev. Victor / Shutterstock.com.

Italy’s new national Library of Archaeology and Art History.

Rome opens Imperial Fora for night tours this summer.

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a deﬁnitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES

TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it

classical cinema

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it

Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com

cinema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign ﬁlm festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 068553485

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Troisi, Via Girolamo Induno 1, www.cinematroisi.it.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dance opera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, ww Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

rock pop

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Laniﬁcio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it

Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org

Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com

theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

theatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it

By Kate Zagorski

POLLO ALLA ROMANA

A homecooked classic, this Roman-style chicken is a wonderful summer recipe which makes the most of the season’s bright, plump, bell peppers. Tender pieces of chicken are slowly cooked with tomato, peppers and onion until the meat is falling o the bone and the sauce becomes succulent, sweet and sticky. A true crowd-pleaser, in Rome it is commonly served for lunch on the Ferragosto holiday on 15 August.

The recipe is in itself very simple and just requires a little time to prepare the peppers and let the ingredients work their magic. Although the dish can be served piping hot, it is just as satisfying when left to rest until room-temperature and should be served with plenty of bread to mop up the mouth-watering juices. Just make sure you have enough leftovers to pack into a sandwich the next day.

Ingredients

1 chicken, cut into pieces

4 red and yellow peppers

1 onion, roughly sliced

1 clove of garlic, peeled 500ml tomato passata

1 small bunch of fresh basil ½ glass white wine

½ glass extra virgin olive oil

Salt Pepper

To begin, preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the whole peppers on a baking tray, drizzle them lightly with oil and cook for 15 minutes until the skin starts to blister. Remove the peppers and, while still hot, put them into a plastic bag, tie the top and leave for 1 hour. Then remove the skins, slice into 1cm strips and put to one side.

Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a large saucepan and gently fry the garlic clove until it starts to turn golden, then add the pieces of chicken and season with salt and pepper. Fry the chicken until the skin has browned and then add the onion. Cook for 5 minutes before pouring in the white wine. After a couple of minutes, once the alcohol has evaporated, add the tomato passata and the fresh basil leaves, check the seasoning, adding more salt if required.

Turn down the heat, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the sauce becomes too dry add a little water to loosen it up.

Add the sliced, peeled peppers, stir and then cook for a further 15 minutes before serving.

Indirizzi

Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Porta Osteria delle Coppelle Roma, Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Zoccolette

Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza

Marzapane al Caffè dell’Opera

Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces and gardens

Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months.

GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT

Yugo a S. Pancrazio

Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails.

IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT

Osteria delle Coppelle

Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza.

TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL

Pianostrada

An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed.

TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Trattoria da Teo

Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed.

CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL

Marzapane all’Opera

The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (€19). Mon closed.

MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE

Madre

With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26.

AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL

The Corner Marco Martini

At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200.

GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Ristoro degli Angeli

All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed.

IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL

Osteria Siciliana

This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26).

TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).

Porta S. Pancrazio 32.

Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 0645502826. Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296.

dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355.

dell’Opera Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504.

Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046.

The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350.

Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020.

Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, tel. 0668805283.

Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194.

Associations

American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org

American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli

Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net

Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

Books

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel

Saint-Louis de France (French)

Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)

Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious

All Saints’ Anglican Church

Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881

Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30

Anglican Centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com

Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

Bible Baptist Church

Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00

Christian Science Services

Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425

Church of All Nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

Church of Sweden

Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it

Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org

Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820

Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com

Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian

South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00

Jewish Community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas

Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761

Lutheran Church

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German)

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church

Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic)

Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00

Roma Baptist Church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese)

Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara

Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

Rome International Church

Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org

Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)

Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups

Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com

Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it

Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306

Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it

Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily

Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554

Caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235

Caritas legal assistance

Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369

Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport

• Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it

• Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it

• Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it

• Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994

• Traffic info tel. 1518

• Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic)

Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00

St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org

Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30

St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)

St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00

Comunità di S. Egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234

Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat

Information line for disabled tel. 800271027

Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre

St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339

Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it

Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772

Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)

Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers

• Ambulance tel. 118

• Carabinieri tel. 112

• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336

• Fire brigade tel. 115

• Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999

• Police tel. 113

• Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355