Issuu

—

1836.

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Back's Joamey to the Arctic Sea.

Ifil

Journal of the Arctic Land Expedition to ihe Mouth of the Great Fish River, and along the sliores of the Arctic Ocean, in the Year.' 1833, 1834, and 1835. By Captain Back, R. N. Commander of the Expedition. 1 vol. 8vo. Galignani. London, Murray. Paris, Brussels, Pratt «& Bary. Leipsig, Black Armstrong. Frankfort, Jiigel. Philadelphia, Carey Hart. 1836.

Art. VI.

This is an honest book

—

the production of a

plain, strj ight-forward, veracious traveller

and that is saying a great deal. If Captain Back be not known to the reading world as an author, his name, at least, is familiar to all who have "ken any interest in the northern expeditions of Franklin and Richardson, of whose perilous adventures he was the conIn stant sharer and unflinching companion. the course of these enterprizcs he distinguish-

ed himself on two occasions, the object being that of extending the geography of the seacoast of the Arctic regions of North-America, and of confirming the accounts given by

Hearne and Mackenzie, the first travellers who had reached these shores and at the same time to endeavor to ascertain the con;

of a water-communication between Behring's Strait and Hudson's Bay. There is nothing perhaps on record more truly affecting than the simple and unadorned tale told by Sir John Franklin of the almost unparalleled sufferings which he ..nd tinuity or otherwise

companions were doomed to undergo from the fatigue of travelling hundreds of miles amidst frost and snow-storms, without shelter, without fire, and without food ; so nearly at one time reduced to a state of ab. his

solute starvation, as to be driven to the last

resource of devouring their own shoes and

somewhat perhaps more palutabic by the addition of a miserably bitter lichen which they jtickcd off the rocks. advert to these adventures now to show that Captain Back, in voluntarily undertaking the one hen) reci, ded, was fully aware of tlio dangers, the privations, and the hardships which it was all but cortiiin it would be his lot again to suffer. It was with such a prospect before his eyes, that on hearing, when in Italy, in the year 1832, that the fate of Ross nnd his companions still remained uncertain, he hastened to England, with the intention of offering his services to government to conduct an expedition in search of ihem. Ho arrived here at the moment when such an cxpeuition was in preparation ; and it is almost unnecessary to add that the volunteer services of Captain (then Commander) Back were joyfully accepted. leather gun-cases, rendered

T:n,^

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Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

162

Aprili

After the accounts wo have formerly given stow away their legs in a space not more than of the expeditions under Sir John Franklin large enough for three Europeans, wo«ld have and Dr. Richardson in the northern regions been a puzzling problem to one unacquainted with the suppleness of an Indian's unbandugof America, it would be idle in us to enter ed limbs. 'There, however, they were, in a into a particular description of the incidents temperature of 06° , packed heads and tails, In his own nervous and like Yarmouth herrings half naked their in Captain Back's. picturesque narrative, the details of even the hair in elf-locks, long and matted filthy beyond description and all squalling together. first part of his travels arc most interesting the best analysis we could afford would seem To complete the picture, their dogs, scarce one degree below them, formed a sort of a mere repetition. body guard on each side of the river, and as Captain Back left London on the 17th the canoe glided away with the current, all February, 1333, accompanied by Mr. King, the animals together, human and canine, set a surgeon, and three men, two of whom had up a shrill and norrible yell.' p. 79. Sir Joim Franklin. experience under gained At New York they received every possible From the chief of those people, who went attention and hospitality ; and a steam-ves- by the name of • Le Camarade de Mande-

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conveyance to Al- ville,' Captain Back received important inNothing could exceed the kindness fornr.afion, which he afterwards ascertained bany. and exertions of Governor Simpson and all to be correct, of two great rivers beyond the the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. Great Slave Lake, the Teh-Ion and the A sufficient number of voyageura were pro- Thlew-ee-choh, the latter of which he was and Captain Back was destined to navigate to its source. cured at La Chine On the ready to leave Norway House on the 28th 8th August the party reached Great Slave June with sixteen persons, consisting of Lake, and were received at Fort Resolution, steersmen, carpen;ers, artillery-men, fisher- a station of the Hudson's Bay Company, by sel was offered for their

;

men, and voyageuTS, to whom were after- Mr. M'Donnell, the gentleman in charge. wards added nine others. Determined to lose no time in search of the river that was to conduct him to the sea, ' This,' says the Captain, ' was a happy day Captain Back set out on the 11th, in an old for me ; ond as the canoe pushed off from the canoe, with his servant, an Englishman, a bank, my heart swelled with hope and joy. Now, for the first time, I saw myself in a con- Canadian, two half-breeds, and two Indians, on an exploring expedition. All was plain dition to verify the kind anticipations of my The preliminary difficulties had sailing as far as the eastern portion of Great friends. been overcome I was fairly on the way to Slave Luke, into which fell an unknown the accomplishment of the benevolent eriand river, with a steep and rocky bed, to which on which 1 had been commissioned ; and the the name of Hoar-frost River was given. contemplation of an object so worthy of all We have a beautiful print of Beverley's exertion, in which I thought myself ut length Fall, near the mouth of this river, which will free to indulge, raised my spirits to a more an idea of what these falls, so very convey than ordinary pitch of excitement' p. 57. numerous in all the rivers in North America, At Pine Portage he met with Mr. M'Leod, are. Indeed, this particular river was so one of the Hudson's Bay Company's ser- encumbi'red with cascades and ra|)ids, that vants, and though this gentleman was on his not only their baggage and provisions but the way to Canada for the rc-establishment of canoe also had to be carried up the high, his health, no sooner did he learn the hu- steep, and ruggid ridges, over swamps of mane object of the mission, than he deter- thick stunted firs, and open spaces barren mined nt once to sacrifice his own plans to and desolate, on which crag was piled upon the pleasure of becoming the companion of crag to a height of two thousand feet from Back ; by which disinterested act, six persons the base.' The lal)or was excessive ; but, Mr. M'Leod, his wife, three children, and says our traveller a servant were added to the eight, who « The laborious duty which had been thus with their baggage had already pretty well This, however, it satisfactorily performed was rendered doubly filled the single canoe. appears, was nothing unusual, and not to be severe by the combined attack of myriads of sand-flies and mosquitoes, which made our compared with the compact way in which the faces stream with blood. There is certainly A whole fleet of no Indians stow themselves. form of wretchedness, among those to their canoes was met on the Slave River de- which the chequered life of a toya^cur is exsccnding from the Great Slave Lake the posed, nt once so great and so humitiuting, as the torture inflicted by these puny blooddescription of one of them is as follows suckers. To avoid them is impossible and • It was small even for n canoe and how as for defending himself, though for a tirds eight men, women, and children contrived to he may go on crushing by thouMnds, be can:

—

;

—

April,

more than

would have lacquainted

unbandug. were, in a s and tails,

—

iked their —filthy beng together, ogs, scarce a sort of iver, and as I

current, all canine, set 79.

who went

dc Mandciportant in-

ascertained

beyond the and the

lich

ho was

On the

jreat Slave Resolution,

ompany, by in

cliai'ge.

larch of the to

the sea,

h, in

an old

glishtnan,

wo Indians, was

plain

an of Great

unknown

Bcl,

which

was given. Beverley's

which will ills, so very th America,

ver was so rnpids, that sioiis but the

p the high,

swamps of jces barren s piled upon ul

feet from

essive ; but,

153

Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

1836.

not long maintain the unequal conflict ; so that at last, subdued by pain niul fiitigue, he throws himself in despair with his face to the earth, and half suffocated in his blanket, groans away a few hours of sleepless rest.'

even with this and the aid of a veil and stout leather gloves, I did not escape without severe punishment. For the time, I thought the tiny plagues worse even than mosquitos.' p.

—

179.

p. 117.

The river bceamo more rocky, and cataThe mild and gentle character of the gal- ract succeeded cataract in quick succession, but so as to render it perfectly unnavigable. lant Franklin is generally well known At ;

Back mentions an anecdote, of which he was reminded by an old Indian, of his patient and humane forbearance even to the meanest and most tormenting of God's creatures

It was the custom of Sir John Franklin never to kill a fly, and, though teas(;d by them '

length '

One or two more rapids, and a narrow fall

of twenty feet, terminated the ascent of this turbulent and unfriendly river. Nothing, however, can be more romantically beautiful than the wild scenery of its course. High rocks beetling over the rapids like towers, or rent into the most diversified forms, gay with various-colored mosses, or shaded by overhanging trees now a tranquil pool, lying like a sheet of silver now the dash and foam of a cataract, these are a part only of its

beyond expression, especially when engaged in taking observations, he would quietly desist from his work, and patiently blow the half-gorged intruders from his hands " the — world was wide enough for both." This was jocosely remarked upon at the time by Akait- picturesque and striking features.' p. 119. choand the four or five Indians who accompanied him but the impression, it seems, had Here a poor Indian came up, who liad left sunk deep, for on Maufelly's seeing me fdl my tent with smoke, and then throw open the the party some days before with only two charges of powder, which he had lost, im. front and beat the sides all round with leafy

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branches, to drive out the stupitied pests before I went to rest, he could not refrain from expressing his surprise that I should be so unlike the uld chief, who would not destroy so much as a single mosquito.' p. 180.

—

It would almost seem that these creatures are iin|)erishable ; at least tliey survive a second year. If we recollect rightly, it is Ellis, ii. his account of the doleful voyage of Captain James, who says, he carried a frozen mass ol what lie thought peat, aiid laid it

ploring something for his family to eat.

a faint voice,

I would

not have troubled the

chief, for we could have lived

upon

h made our is certainly ing those to Higc.nr is ex.

miliuting, as

puny blood3s.sible; and for a tirue nds, be can-

berries ;

but when I looked upon my child, and heard cries, my heart failed me, and I sought More rapids were to be passed, and more fatiguing portages to be surmount, ed, much to the annoyance of the crew. At length, however, they gained the summit. its

for relief.'

Beyond this was a lake with some dark firtrees on

—

d been thus ered doubly myriads of

Had

its margin, and farther on another of very considerable dimensions to which Back gave the name of Walmesley, But now became evident that the guide was it completely at fault, and he admitted that he had not been in this part of the country since he was a Iwy. They continued, however, to winter and revive in the spring. The swarms paddle away along the edge of a sheet of L-ailed brufols by the Canaof sand-flies seem to be fully as annoying as the (jld ice. The thermometer was ilown to 31° , dians yot the mosquitos and the brulots swarmed mosquitos. nmumeruble, and were most tormenting. At • As we dived into the confined and sufl"ocatthe spot where they encamped no living thing ing chasms, or wiidled through the close besides these was seen or heard the air swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darken- was calm, the lake unrufllcd • it seemed,' ing the air to see or to speak was equally says our traveller, ' as if Nature had fallen dillicult, for they rushed at every undefended into a tronce, for all was silent and motionpart, and fixed their poisonous tangs in an inOur faces streamed with blood, as if less as death.' At length the guide disco> stant. leeches had been applied and there was a vered some sand-hills, and Ijeyond them a burning and irritating pa in, l<>llowed by imme- great lake, ut the sight of which his coundiate inflammation, and producing giddiness tenance lighted up, and he said, doubtingly, which almost drove us mad. Whenever we 'These places look familiar to me.' The hnltt'd, which the nature of the country comcanoe was draggcul among the sand-hills, and pelled us to do often, the men, even Indians, having navigated Clinton. Golden Lake, they threw ihemsi'lves on their faces, imd moai;ed occurred. with piiin and agony. My arms being li.-ss entered the largest that had yet encumberiid, I defended myself in some de- To this splendid sheet of water Captain gree by waving a branch in each hand but Back gave the name of Aylmer, in honor of

before the fire, when shortly the whole room was filled with a cloud of mosquitos ; they had clustered together, and become a frozen mass, like bees wlnui about to cast their swarms. Many other of the inferior and cold-blooded i-lasses of animals freeze in the

there been only my wife wi»h me,' he said in

;

vor.. Lvr.

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Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

154

April,

On her hair matted %nd filthy, her skin shrivelthe late governor-general of Canada. the liigh sand-hills at the eastern extremity of led, and feebly supporting, with the aid of a

stick held by both hands, a trunk which was Captain Back observed some little literally horizontal, she presented, if such an of water, which took a northerly direc- expression may be pardoned, the shocking tion towards a small lake, which, though the and unnatural appearance of a human brute. height of the land, intervening between it It was a humiliating spectacle, and one which and the lake he had just left, was not a I would not willingly see again. Poor Her talc was soon told old and great many feet, he was willing to hope wretch might be the source of the river he had long decrepit, she had come to be considered as a been in search of; and so it turned out to be. burden even by her own sex. Past services toils were forgotten ; and in their figuraTo this source ho gave the name of Sussex, and tive style they coldly told her that, " though Back soon she appeared to live, she was already dead," in honor of the Roval Duke. satisfied himself that he had now discovered and must be abandoned to her fate. " There " go there ; the the Thlew-ce-choh, or, as the Geographical is a new fort," said they Society have very properly called it, and as whites are great medicine men, and may have wo shall hereafter do Back's liiver. The power to save you." This was a month bemonth of August had expired, and having fore ; since which time she had crawled and made this important discovei-y, he deemed it hobbled along the rocks, the scanty supply of berries which she found upon them just enprudent and indeed imperative on him to reabling her to live. Another day or two must This he effected by a different route, have ended her sufferings.' p, 193. turn. and by a different river, which, falling into a large sheet of water, named by him the ArIt was not till the end of October that the tillery Lake, led to the eastern extremity of river and the borders of the lake were frozen Great Slave Lake, near the spot where Mr. over; and meantime the sufferings of the this lake rills

;

—

M'Leod had been

Indians for want of food became extreme. These poor people, seeing the instruments in he found the newly erected frame-work of a the observatory, were but too ready to ascribe house at the bottom of a snug cove, backed to them the mysterious cause of all their misby the dark-green foliage of a wood of fir- fortunes ; nor were they singular in this two trees. The completion of this establishment of the voyageurs, says Captain Back, ' when for the winter went on cheerily we were taking the dip, hearing the words sent

establish

winter-quarters, and whei-e, on

their

their arrival,

The men were divided into parlies, and appointed to regular tasks some to the felling of trees, and squaring them into beams or rallers; others to the sawing of slabs and planks. Here was a group awkwardly chipping the shapeless granite mto something like form and there a party in a boat in search of mud and grass for mortar. It was an animated scene and, set off as it was by the white tents and smoky leather lodges, contrasting with the mountains and green woods, it was picturesque as well ns interesting.' p. '

;

—

190.

"Now!

— Stop!" always succeeded by a

perfect silence, looked

each other, and,

from the railing, reported to their companions

was raising the was actually any scarcity of deer or musk-oxen several hundreds in a group were frequently seen ; but the mildness of the season and the abun. dance of the reindeer lichen kept them beyond the usual period on the barren plains,

that they verily believed devil.'

was

not tliut there

;

wiiere they could not be got at within gun-

Slot distance.

Numbers of Indians, especially the old, the sick, and the miserable, soon found their way

with significant shrugs, turning hastily away

fishery failed

Not only the deer but the them and the mild weather ;

continuing, by the end of November all their 'Distress was to the house of the white man, in search of supplies had been exhausted. that succor and relief from starvation, which ')revalent, and the din and screeching of wois rarely in the power of their own country- men and children too plainly indicated the

a remarkable trait in acuteness of their suffering.' At this moment the appearance of Captain Back's old they are to their children, they are totally in- acquaintance of a former expedition, Akaitdifferent to the wants and the sufferings oi' cho, with a little meat, enables him to grant tlie aged and the infirm. A poor old wo- a. momentary relief. This ancient chief man was found on the opposite side of tho wore the silver medal which had been given bay, helpless and alone, bent double by age to him at Fort Enterprise by Sir John Frank, and infirmities, and rendered absolutely lin, as a proof that ho hud not forgotten his frightful by famine and disease.' As a spe- friends. Many of the Indians went off with cimen of too numerous a class, we give this old hunter, who promised the Captain that he and his people should not want as Back's description of this poor creature long as he could procure anything to send to ' Clnd in deer-skins, her eyes all but closed. the tort,

men to bestow.

It is

their character that, kind and affectionate as

April,

kin shrivel, the aid of a i 1,

which was if such an shocking

urnan brute.

one which Poor gain. (1

and aidered as a Id : old

Past services their figuralut,

"though

ready dead,"

"There

ite.

there ; the

nd may have a month becrawlcd and nty supply of

lem just enor two must

193.

ober that the

were frozen rings of the

me extreme. nstrumentB in jdy to ascribe all

their mis-

two Back, * when g the words leeded by a r in this

h other, and, hastily away

;

companions

raising the

was actually several qucntly seen the abun. and ).\cn ;

;ept

them be-

barren plains. It within gundeer but the mild weather

imber all their Distress was

celling of woiiidicatcd the

At this mon

Back's old

[edition,

him

Akait.

to grant

ancient

chief

been given rJohn Frank, \d

forgotten his

went off with the Captain not want as ling to send to 1 :!

165

Back's journey Ic the Arctic Sett.

1636.

and when the thermometer at the Towards the famine stared the whole party in the face. end of December was at 70° below zero, The Indians in shoals foil back on the fort made experiments on the effect and intensity as the only chance of prolonging their ex- of the cold on sulphuric and nitric ether, and pyroligncous acid, which are curious but istence. we must pass over the results. 'In vain did we endeavor to revive their drooping spirits, and excite them to action Such, indeed, was the abstraction of heat, the scourge was too heavy, and their exerNo sooner that witii eight large logs of dry wood in the tions were entirely paralysed. fireplace of a small room, 1 could not get the had one party closed the door, than another, thermometer higher than 12° plus. Ink and still more languid and distressed, feebly opened it, and confirmed by their half-famished paint froze. The sexti-.nt cases, and boxes of fir, all split. Nor looks and sunken eyes their heart-rending seasoned wood, principally oiid

of December absolute

vations,

;

tale

sufT'iring.

They spoke

little,

but

was the sensation particularly agreeable to

crowded in silence round the fire, as if eager our persons ; the skin of the hanJs especially became dry, cracked, and opened into unto enjoy the only comfort remaining to them. A handful of i.iouldy pounded meat, which sightly and smarting gashes, which we were had been originally reserved for our dogs, obliged to anoint with grease. On one occawas the most liberal allowance we cuuld sion, af\er washing my face within three feet make to each ; and this meal, unpalatable and of the fire, my hair was actually clotted with unwholesome as it was, together with the ice before I had time to dry it. From these customary presentation of the friendly pipe, facts some idea may, perhaps, be formed of was sufficient to efface for a moment the re- the excessive cold. It seemed to have driven had been accollection of their sorrows, and even to light all living things from us we up their faces with a smile of hope. " We customed to see a few white partridges about, hardy as they are, had disapbut even these, know," they said, "that yon are as much ." peared. Once, indeed, a solitary raven, distre-sscd as; ourselves, and you are very good look at him, Afflicting as it was to behold such scenes of whose croak made me run out to :

swept round the house, but immediately winged his flight to the westward. Nothing but were met. There were no impious upbraid- the passing wind broke the awful solitude of this barren and desolate spot.' p. 223. ings of Providence, nor any of those revolting acts, too frequent within late years, which The suflerings of the poor Indians at this have cast a darker shade over the character ofthelndian.'— p. 310. 'Famine, period ai-e not to be described. • Our hall was in a manner filled with in- with her gaunt and bony arm,' says Back, pursued them every turn, withered their at valids and other stupidly-dejected beings, who, scaled round the fire, occupied them- energies, and strewed them lifeless on the selves in roasting and devouring small bits of cold bosom of the snow.' Nine had fallen their reindeer garments, which, even when victims already, and others were on the eve entire, afforded them a very insufficient proof perishing, when old Akaitcho, during this tection against a temperature of 102" below thi freezing point. The father torpid and de- appalling period of suffering and calamity, spairing the mother, with a hollow and se- proved himself the firm friend of the expediBy his encouraging language and forpulchral Wail, vainly endeavoring to soothe tion. the Infant, which with Unceasing moan clung titude he kept up their desponding spirits, to her shrivelled and exhausted breast the boldly encountered every difSculty, and made passive child gazing vacantly around such others act by the foicc of his example. Mauwas one of the many groups that surrounded felly, also, another Indian chief, came opporus.'— p. 218. tunely with the joyful information, that he Often,' says Captain Back, • did I share had five deer killed for them within a couple own plate with the childre,), whose help- of days' walk. Shortly after another chief, my less state and piteous cries were peculiarly Le Camarado dc Mandeville, brought to the distressii.g compassion for the full grown fort two sledges of dried meat ; and at the may or may not be felt, but that heart must same time came a further supply from Mr. be cosed in steel which is insensible to the M'Leod, who had gone to a distance with a cry of a child for food.' Tlio lamentable si- fishing party ; accompanied, however, with tuation in which they were placed, the scanty the painful intelligence, that he and his farations of pemmican to which the party was mily were surrounded by difficulties, privareduced, produced, however, no sullen or tions, and deaths. Six more natives of sulky looks in the fine fellows Back had en either sex had sunk under the horrors of stargaged in England and Canada they were vation.' always cheerful and in good spirits. Back, To add to the affliction suffered by Capin imitation of his old commander F"ranklin, ta'n Back, he received <\ packet from Hudinstituted an evening school for their amuse- sen's Bay by a person who told him that his ment. He pursued his astronomical obser* cid friend Augustus, the former affectionate

suffering, it was at the same time gratifying to observe the resignation with wnich they

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15d

Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

April,

1836.

Esquimaux interpreter, no sooner licard that says, were novelty and enterprise hope, he was again in the country than he re- curiosity, and the love ol adventure we.-e my solved to join him and he had actually companions and even the prospfjct of difliwalked from Hudson's Bay widi that inteti- cullies and dangers to he encountered, with of tion, in company a Canadian and an Iro- the responsibility inseparable from command, '

;

They lost their way, se|)arated, and instead of damping, rather heightened the enpoor Augustus fell a sacrifice to famine his joyment of the moment.' body was some time after this found in the It !s not necessary to take notice of their ' He was,' says Captain barrens. Back, ' a progress along the same, or pretty much the faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, same, tract of country they had passed over who had won the regard not of myself only, on their return from Back's River the precedbut I may add of Sir J. Franklin and Dr, ing autumn. It may suffice to ga), that on Richardson also, by qualities v. liicli, wherever the 28th June die boat was carried over the found, in the lowest as in the highest forms last and short portuge which divides the waof social life, are the ornament and charm of ters running to the south from those taking a humanity.' northerly direction ; and in the afternoon About the middle of April the prospects of they had the satisfaction of launching the boat the party began to brighten, and active pre- into Back's River, which, from previous inparations weie making for their expedition to formation, they had every reason to hope the sea-coast. On the 25th of that month a would convey them into the Arctic Sea. The messenger arrived with a packet, which weather had been generally most severe durbrought Captain Bade the welcome intelli- ing the month of June the thermometer begence of the safety of Ross and his party. low the freezing point foggy, and attended The excitement and iiurry of his feelings with storms of enow, hail, and rain yet, at may well be imagined. He says the end of May, a week before they started, the weather had become so sultry, that the In the fulness of our hearts wo assembled temperature in the sun rose to 100'', forming together, and humbly offered up our thanks an extraordinary contrast with that of the 17ih to that merciful Providence, which in the January, when the thermometer stood at 70° beautiful language of Scripture hath said, " Mine own wdl I bring again, as I did some- below zero. Mr. M'Leod and his party here took leave, time from the deeps of the sea." The thought of so wonderful a preservation overpowered and returned to Fort Resolution on the 8th for a time the common occurrences of life. July. Back's party now consisted of ten We had but just sat down to breakfast but persons only himself and Mr. King, two our upjietite was gone, and the day was pass- Highlanders, two half-breeds, one man from ed in a feverish state of excitement. Seldom, Orkney, and three English artillerymen. The indeed, did my friend Mr. King or I indulge weight lor the boat to carry was estimated at in a libation, but on this joyful occasion economy was forgotten a treat was given to the 3360 pounds, exclusive of the awning, masts, quois.

;

— —

—

;

ever, on

;

men, and for ourselves the social sympathies yards, sails, spare oars, poles, planking, and were quickened by a generous bowl of punch.' the crew. For many days past the weather —p. 245. had been thick and foggy, but on its clearing

sage thn eastern

which

away

suddenly, the branching antlers of This intelligence determined Back to pro- twenty reindeer were seen spreading over ceed to the shore of the Arctic Sea with one the summits of the adjacent hills. To see boat only ; this plan would suit best the re- and pursue were the work of a moment. duced state of the party and their provisions ; ' It was a beautiful and interesting sight, for while those left behind, in the summer season, would have no difBcuity, with the a.ssist- the sun shone out, and lighting up soiih- parts cast others into deeper shade ; the white ice ance of the Indians, not only to supply themretlectcd millions of dazzling rays; th(; rapid selves with food, but also to collect a quanleapt and chafed in little ripples, which melttity for general use against the Captain's reed away into the unrutlled surface of the turn from the northward. slumbering lake ; abrupt and craggy rocks It was the 7th June when Captain Back, frowned on the right ; and, on the left, the accompanied by Mr. King, left Fort Reliance. brown landscape receded until it was lost in can easily imagine with what sensations the distant blue mountains. The foreground this brave and zealous traveller set out on was filled up with the ochre-colorei* lodges of the Indians, contrasting with our own pule this expedition of discovery ; how delighted tents and to the whol'i scene animation was to escape from the wretchedness of a dreary given by the graceful motions of the unsturtand disastrous winter from scenes and tales led deer, and the treacherous crawling of the from wearisome in- wary hunters.' p. 307. of suffering and death from disuppointincnt action and monotony They soon had occasion to perceive what and hearti*ickening care. ' Before me,' he

covered smoothly dous gne feet

—

their caq

sage oft peatcdiy the boat often did the threa

Strong whiilpoo kept the and anxi

;

—

hiij

From hei made it

— — —

compara

that turn hiost for 3

here the) party of

—

rise ;

hope,

kind of difficulties and perils they were likely tonished to look upon a set of beings so dif< to experience from the character of t..e river ferent from any they had hitherto been accusfull of j-npids, cascades, and cataracts, the tonied to see : descent of which, Back says, ' made him hold ' Some, called out to us, and others made his breath ; expecting to see the boat dashed thought, to avoid the to shivers against some protruding rocks, signs, warning us, as we fall, and cross over to their side of the water amidst the foam and fury at the foot of a intention of doing so was appawhen but our ranid.' In j)assing down one of these, where rent, the men ran towards tis, brandishing the river, full of large rocks and boulders, their speai-s, uttering loud yells, and, with was hemmed in by a wall of ice, and the wild gesticulations, motioning to us not to stream flying with the force and velocity of a land.'— p. 379. torrent, the boat was lightened of her cargo ; and ' I stood,' says Back, ' on a high ock, Captain Back landed alone, and, without It visible weapon, walked deliberately up to with an anxious heart, to see her run it. to feel one crash impossible not that them, and, imitating their own action of was would be fatal to the expedition. Away they throwing up his hands, called out Timd went with the speed of an arrow, and in a peace. In an instant their spears were flung moment the foam and rocks hid them from upon the ground, and, placing their hands on my view. I heard what sounded in my ear their breasts, they also called out Timd. like a wild shriek ; I followed with an agita- Some brass buttons, fish-hooks, and other tion which may be conceived, and to my in- trifles soon gained their confidence and good They had a few tents of poles and expressible joy, found that the shriek was the will. triumphant whooj) of the crew, who had skins, five canoes, knives, spears and arrows ; landed safely in a small bay below,' and their whole number might be about Back had recollected a few On the 16th July, after having passed some thirty-five. heavy rapids and cascades, a large stream, words of their language, and had with him a as broad as the Thames at Westminster, fell vocabulary, so that he was able to make them from the south-east info Back's River. On comprehend his wants, the chief of which was One of them, an intelligent the 19th July, having reached the parallel of information. 66^^ latitude, they entered a lake of immense fellow, drew on paper the line of the river on extent, full of deep bays on every side and the right bank to the northward, and gave it without any current. Here it puzzled them a sudden and extraordinary bend to the exceedingly to find out the spot where the southward. He then led Back to the summit water was dischargeu into the river ; but the of the highest rock, and made a curve witli worst was ' the startling sight of extensive his hand from west to east, repeating very and unbroken fields of ice, stretching to the quick, ' Tarreoke, tarreoke ' the sea, the cxtremest point of vision.' At length, how- sea ; and having brought his hand to bear ever, on the ^2d July, after threading a pas- about E.S.E., he at once stopped, saying sage through a barrier of ice in the south- ' Tarreoke naga,' &c. ; importing that, in eastern corner of this large sheet of water, that direction, there was no sea, but plenty of which is called Lake Macdougali, and in a musk-oxen. Captain Back here observes comparatively contracted chaimel, they dis- that ' where there is no common language for covered ' the whole force of the water gliding the interchange of ideas, all conclusions mrst smoothly but irresistibly towards two stupen- at best be uncertain ; and few men have so dous gneiss rocks, from five to eight hundred much mastery over themselves as not to lean feet high, rising like islands on either side.' unconsciously towards a preconceived opiFrom hence a series of falls succeeded, which nion.' He is quite right and he might have made it necessary to carry every article of instanced, among the Males of tiavellers,' their cargo over a long portage. The pas- long and minute accounts of the manners, ' sage of the boat was most alarming. Re. customs, religion, and even biographies of peatedly did the strength of the current hurl this secluded and dwarfish race, furnished by the boat within an inch of destruction, and as those who knew scarcely the most common often did these able and intrepid men ward off words of their language. Here, however, the threatened danger.' the man's words and signs accorded with his Strong and heavy rapids with falls and drawing, and were subsequently verified. whirlpools for the next eighty or ninety miles These good-natured and friendly people kept the men in a constant state of exertion were of essential service to Captain Back and anxiety, when they came at length to one for information having been brought to him that turned out to be the last, as it was thi; by his men, that the fall was so tremendous tnost formidable that had yel occurred and that no boat could survive the descent, and here thoy I'ell in with, and took by surprise, a that the crew were quite unequal to the task party of Esquimaux, who were not a little as- of conveying it over the long and lofty port-

command,

ice of their

y much tlio

massed over the precedthat on

ed over the Jes the wa-

taking a afternoon ing the boat

ise

previous in-

on to hope Sea. The severe durlometer beid attended lin :

yet, at

hoy started, ry, that the

0", fonning

of the 17tli

tood at 70°

took leave, on the 8th sted of ten King, two

man from ymen. The 3

jstimated at ling, masts, inking, and

he weather its clearing

antlers of ad ing over To see Is. loment.

ig sight, for sonu; parts 10 white ice th(' rapid i ; wliich meltface of the aggy rocks the left, the I

was lost in foreground ei' lodges of r

157

Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

1836.

ned the en-

)

;;

April,

c we.-e my i;ct of (liffi. ilcred, with

la) ,

—

own pale

mation was the unstartivling of the

—

;

rccivo what

—

;

Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

168

age, he ntndc significant signs to the Esquimaux to lend them a helping hand. ' The was cheerfully complied with, and with their assistance we succeeded in carry, ing the boat below the fall ; so that, in reality, I was indebted to them for getting to the sea I0(iiie3t

at all.'

On the Q9th July, the day after parting with the Esquimaux, on the fog clearmg up, they got signt of a majestic headland in the extreme distance to the north, on the eastern side of the river, which had so coast-like an appearance that no doubt could be enter, tained of its being one side of the opening into the sea and so it proved to bo on ap. preaching it, and received the name of her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria. On the party arriving at this promontory, Cap. tain Back thus sums up a brief and general view of this impetuous river

April,

Though the main object of the expeno longer existed, Captain Back was anxious not to leave the coast until he had gained all the geographical information that the circumstances of the weather and the advanced season of the year would allow ; but the whole of the estuary of the river was blocked up with ice. The bluff point described by the Esquimaux was full before them, at a but to short distance beyond Cape Victoria have attempted to double that point, amidst the obstacles that surrounded them, would them. dition

;

have involved them in inextricable difficulties for the prevailing westerly winds and current packing the drift ice mto Prince Regent's Inlet would have rendered their return utterly impossible. This bluff point, which was .he northern named Cape Hay, appears to extreme of the eastern coast. The weuther for ten days continued chilly, wet, and foggy ; during which they were mostly blocked up 'This, then, may be considered as the by ice, and unable to make any progress. mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which, after a This was mortification enough ; but it was violent and tortuous course of five hundred not all. The reindeer moss and a species of and thirty geographical miles, running ;

through an iron-ribbed country without a single tree on the whole line of its banks, expanding into fine large lakes with clear horizons, most embarrassing to the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and rapids, to the number of no less than eighty-three in the whole, pours its waters into the Polar Sea in latitude 67 degrees 11 minutes N., and longitude 94 degrees 30 minutes W. that is to aay, about thirty-seven miles more south than the mouth of the Copper Mine River, and nineteen miles more south than that of Back's River at the lower extremity of Bathurst's ;

Inlet.'— p. 390.

fern, the only products of this desolate region, were so much soaked with wet that they woidd not burn so that, although they could and did kill deer, and might have got muskoxen, they had no means cf cooking their flesh not even to boil a little water for tea. In eight days, we think Back says, they had but one hot meal. In this cheerless and wretched condition, without fire without any species of warm food the rain scarcely ceasing for a moment, except to give way to snow in sjch a state of suffering and in total ignorance of what might be their future fate, we agree with Captain Back, that ' it cannot be a matter of astonishment, and much less of blame, that even the best men, benumbed in their limbs, and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect before them, broke out for a moment into low murmurings that theirs was a hard and painful duty.' ;

—

— —

—

After a perusal of the narrative of this part of the expedition, we must say that the diffiwhich Captain Back and his ' brave band of brothers had to encounter, the dangers to which they were frequently exposed in overcoming them, the fatigue and privations they had to endure, and, in the midst of An event, apparently of trifling importance, all, the patience, good humor, and willingness was sufficient to divert their attention for a manifested on some veiy trying occasions, time from their deplorable situation. On the are above all praise and more particularly 10th August they had reached the latitude so when, at an advanced period of the year, of 68° 10' on the western side of the estuary, all the symptoms of winter had begun to from whence a party was sent to the westthreaten them with incarceration in the most ward to make observations. In the evening desolate, inhospitable, and, from the expe- of that day, the Captain says rience he had of it, detestable region of the • A shoBt of " What have you globe. In the best possible view of their congot there 1" the jocular dition, they had before them the undisguised announced the return of the men and not to be concealed truth, that the return answer of •• A piece of the North Pole," immediately brought Mr. King and mysolf from to their winter-quarters must be made by the the tent; and we found that they had same long and arduous route, now rendered ou' really picked up a piece of drift.woo J nine feet doubly difficult and arduous by having all the long and nine inches in diameter, together with rapids, and falls, and cascades opposing, in- a few sticks of smaller drifl-wood, and a part stead of aiding, their progress. of a canoe. When the large trunk was sawed, But other difficulties and hardships awaited I was rather surprised to see it very little sod-

culties

;

1836.

—

-;;

April,

of the expo, ntil he had rmntion that

and the ad-

d allow ; but sr was block

described by them, at a foria ; but to I

point, amidst

them, would c difficulties

and current

Regent's

ice

eturn utterly

which was .he northern

The weuther and foggy blocked up ny progress.

but

was

d a species of solate region, that

they

gh they could ve got musk-

cooking their vatcr for tea.

ays, ihey had jhcerless

and

—without any scarcely o give way to rain

jring

—and

)e their future

Back, that ' it

and the best men, spirited by the lishmcnt,

?.t

before them,

murmurings

iful

duty.'

ig importance,

ttcntion for tion.

On the

the latitude

Df the estuary, t

159

Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

1836.

I was den with water ; a proof that it could not have in the direction of west-north-west. been exposed for any considerable time to its convinced, therefore,' says Back,, that there the peculiar character of From the action. must be in that particular bearing either a wood, which was pine, of that kind which is main sea or a very deep opening, to have alremarkable for its freedom from knots, 1 had lowed the escape of so great a portion of the no doubt that it had originally grown somewhere in the upper part of the country, about immense extent of ice before us.' The next the Mackenzie and of this I was the more day a north-west wind brought it all back competent to judge from my recollection of again. Captain Back had hoped that the the drift-wood west of that large river, which permanent opening of the ice would have afThough we had strong forded him ilie means of tracing the coa^t as it exactly resembled. reasons to be grateful for this unlooked-for far as Cape Turnagairi ; but it was now the '

Back was

;;

to the west-

[n the evening

u got there 1" n the jocular rth Pole," imd mysolf from that they had :

i-wood nine feet together with lod, and a part ',

ink was sawed,

very little sod-

;

treasure, as affording us 'the means of enjoying a hot meal the; tirst for several days,— yet there were other considerations which eyes a far greater importance. gave it in In it 1 saw what I thought an incontrovertible proof of the set of a current from the westward along the coast to our left, and that consequently we had arrived at the main line of the land for it is a fact well known to the officers of both Sir John Franklin's "x;".!!tions, that the absence of drift-wood Wus always regarded as an infallible sign that we had gone astray from the miui,, either among islands or in some such opening as Bathurst's Inlet, where, by reason of the set of the current, not a piece of any si2,e was found.'

—

18th August but too clear that any such hope must be abandoned.

' I hod for some time cherished the notion of dividing the party, leoving four to protect the boat and property, whilst the remainder, with Mr. King, would have accompanied mo on a land journey towards Point Turnagai.but this scheme was completely frustrated by the ininracticability of carrying any weight on a soil in which at every step we sunk halfleg deep, destitute of shrubs or moss for fuel, and almost without water, over which we must have travelled for days to have made even a few miles of longitude; and where, finally, if sickness had overtaken any one, his p. 413. fate would have been inevitable. Thus circumstanced, therefore, and reflecting on the Several other pieces of drift-wood, besides lon^ and dangerous stream, combming all this log, were found by Mr. King, also a the bad features of the worst rivers in 'he musk-ox and the greater part of the ver'eid-a; country that we had to retrace, the hazards and ribs of a whale, lying on the boach. No of the falls and mpids, and the slender hope which remained of our attaining one mile doubt could be entertain';J of all these being farther, I assembled the men, and Informed brought by tb') current from the westward. them that the period fixed upon by his MaCaptain Back was very desirous, but the dif- jesty's government for my return had arrived :

was how, to get upon that coast, and that it new only remained to unfurl the wedged in as they were by a body of ice Uritish flag, and salute it with three cheers in that seemed to fill the whole extent of the honor of his Most Gracious Majesty, whilst ficulty

estuary, which in its narrowest part appears his royal name should be given to this por" by the chart to be twenty miles, and its de[)th tion of America by the appellation of William the Fourth's Land." The appeal was from Victoria Headland to Point Richardson heartily responded to, and the loyal service seventy miles. All that could be done was was performed with the cheering accompanito despatch a party overland to trace the ment of a good glass of grog.' coast to the westward, but they had only been able to follow the shore about fifteen miles Cape Richardson, the extreme point seen with the greatest exertion and hard labor, to the northward, is in lat. 68° 46' N., long.

swamp mid-leg deep 96° 20' W. Ross's Obelisk in lat. 69° HI' The naked and uniform sur- N., long. 99° T V/. The bearing therefore of the second from the first is N. 52'^ W.,

sinking into snow and at every step.

;

face was broken only by one green hill, to which was given the name of Mount Barrow. From the summit of this hill v/as seen a wide opening in the land to the south-west, in all probability the estuary of another river. ' To the north-east,' says Captain Back, 'there was water and ice, and beyond it a dark-grey or what is denominated a water-sky, while from the east to Cape Hay there was an

—

open sea.'

On i!n' evening of the 13th August, when

distance eighty-six English miles ; and the probable narrowest part of the strait, which separates the land called Boothia from the continent of America, between Point Rich-

Cape Smyth,

ardson

and

miles.

By observations with good needles,

thirty

English

the line of variation taken at Back's exfrome point passes a little to the eastward of Captain James Ross's magnetic pole.

The fact of the drift-wood at this point of North America establishes, we think beyond of optin v"i ;er to be seen in any part of the a doubt, the continuity of the coast from tho :3tuary, s'^ddonly, as if by magic, the whole moutli of Mackenzie s River, and of the bofiy of ICO began to drifl with great rapidity current by which alone it could have been wcdr'^.; iii on every side, and not ten yards

160

Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

April,

183B. broup''

chani

Bay or Ciiesferfield Inlet. The whole tract now and then a solitaof was utter desolation

also proves the existence of a

;

3tween

northern

the

coast

;

Americi .ind the spot where Captain James ry white wolf, a wounded deer, or a muskRoss erected his obelisk and this receives ox, might be seen sauntering near the bank a further confirmation from the immense of the river; even the mosquitos and the field of ice which broke away to the west- sand-flies were either dead or had buried ward, where there must have been an themselves till the resurrection to a new life open channel to receive it. Tiie water and the following spring the berries had not ice, and the grey sky to the N.E., pointed ripened, but were hanging green on the directly to Ihe strait of the Fury and Hecla, bushes. For thirty-six days they had tugindicating an approach to the perpetual cur- ged their boat against the stream or over the rent which sets through that strait, and which portages, making the average about fourteen can only proceed from the western sea, there miles a. day, when, on the 20th September, being none in Prince Regent's Inlet to the they fell in with Mr. M'Leod, at Sand-hill northward of that strait. The clear sea to Bav, at the head of Ayliner Lake, where he the eastward of Cape Hay proved the cor-| had been waiting for them four days. The rcctness of the Esquimaux information, and descent from hence to Fort Reliance occuwas, in all probability, connected with anoth-| pied only a few days but die day previous er estuary falling into Prince Regent's Inlet, to their arrival they found it impossible to at the bottom of which may ')e the mouth of get their boat over the portage of Anderson's another river, running behind the mountains F"all's, and were comj)elled to leave it bo])araliel to Backs River; and here will no 'hind. doubt be found the place mentioned by the At a short distance from Fort Reliance, Esquimaux to Parry, and subsequently to and near to the mouth of the river which dis. Ross, under the name of Accolec, supposed charges the waters of the chain of largo to be not more than forty or fifty miles from lakes the Ayliner, the Clinton-Golden, and the head of Wager Bay. the Artillery into the Great Slave Lake, is We have considered the drift-wood to be, one of the grandest objects in nature, a trcas Captain Back does, decisive of the eon-i mendous waterfall, the description of which tinviance of the current from the westward, we must leave to Back because by no other possible means could it From the only point at which the (greater have reached the point where it was found. part of it was visible, we could distinguish The last remains of anything like wood. the river coming sharp round a rock, and stunted firs and bushes, were seen in lati-' falling into an upper basin almost concealed tude 63° 15' N. on the banks of the southern ^y intervening rocks whence it broke in one waters, or those which flowed into the Great! y"'''^''*'.'-'^.'"*"" chasm between four and five •»""'1[C'1,*^«' deep, yet m appearance so narSlave Lake not a stick of any ' description row that we fancied we could almost step » r»' was seen on the whole extent of Back s across it. Out of this the spray rose in misty River; and Dr. Richardson observes that columns several hundred feet above our none of the rivers on this part of the coast! heads; but as it was impossible to see the (the eastward of Hearno's River) bring down main (all from the side on which we were, in any my drift-timber.' The eastern side of Ameri- the following spring 1 paid a second visit to ca, through which Back's River flows, is '*' appi-oaching from the western hank. The composed of mountainous ridges of granite, """'' '" "• '"^'I'r^ } ^^"^ t^versed m snovij ',sho(!s, was fatiguine n\ the extreme, and ".1 u . L andJ slaty porphyry, gneiss, with sandy barscarcely less dangerous; for, to say nothing reus strewed over with large granite boul- of the steep ascents, fissures in the rocks, and ders. How diirerent is the western coast of deep snow in the valleys, wc had sometimes Norway, where forests of firs and birches to creep along the narrow shelves of preci ate found growing as high up as the 70th pices, slippery with the frozen mist that fell on them. But it was a sight which well reparallel of latitude paid any risk. My first impression was of a It will not be necessary for us to notice strong resemblance to an iceberg in Smeerthe laborious exertions of the party on their enberg Harbor, Spitzbergen. The whole return. If they were severe on their deface o." the rocks forming the chasm was enscent of this impetuous river, how much tirely coated with blue, green, and white ice, more so must have been the ascent against in thousimds of pendent icicles; and there the general current, the rnjiids and the port- were, moreover, cav(!rns, fissures, and over* ages, with increasing cold and stormy weath- hanging I'ulges in all imaginable varieties of At Garry's Lake lliey encountered a form, so curious and beautiful as to surpass er. anything of which I had ever heard or read. party of Esquimaux, which might amount The immediate approaches were extremely to sixty persons, but they were shy, and no hazardous, nor could we obtain a perfect view communication was lad wit!i them they of tlie lower fall, in consequence of the prowere supposed to luue come from Wiiger jection of the west •n cliffs. At the lowest .

;

—

; '

•

;

April,

icn a solita-

or a muskir

the

bank

OS and

the

had buried a new life ies had not een on the ;o

ey hc-d tugor over the out fourteen

September, at Sand-hill e, where

days. The iance occuay previous npossible to

Anderson's cave it bo-

Reliance,

which dis-

lin of large Golden, and ive Lake, is ature, a Ircjn of which

the (greater distinguish

1 1

a rock, and St concealed

broke in one four and five ance so naralrnost step •ose in misty

above our to see the

we were, in

cond visit to hank. The sed in

snow

streme, and

say nothing rocks, and d sometimes le

^es of preci-

nist that fell

iich well re-

ion was of a in Smeer-

The whole

asm was cnid ;

white ice,

and there and over-

varieties of to surpass ard or read.

extremely

perfect view of the pro. )

the lowest

161

Back's Journey lo (he Arctic fiea.

1836.

whole tract

position which we were able to attain, we of those best acquainted with ^'hat has been were still more than a hundred feet above the done -and what still remain-, 'o be done. level of the bed of the river beneath ; and Thrue letters, one from Sir .lohn Barrow, the this, instead of being narrow enough to step Picsident, a second from Dr. Richardson, across, as it had seemed from the opposite and a third from Sir John Franklin, have heights, was found to be at least two hundred been printed, and copies of them are now befeel wide. • The color of the water vuried from p. very fore us. Sir John Barrow seta out by staling that light to a very dark green ; and the spray, which spread a dimncos above, was thrown the honrr which England has acquired Niagara, Wilbergrey. light of clouds in up amonn the continental nations of Europe by force's Falls in Hood's River, the falls of Ka- her successful exertions in extending our kabikka near Lake Superior, the Swiss or knowledge of the globe, both by sea and although they may each falls, Italian land, has very naturally created in the public "charm the eye with dread," are not to be compared to this for splendor or effect, h mind an ardent desire that further endeawas the most imposing spectacle I had ever vors should be made to complete what has He .states his opinion witnessed ; and, as its berg-like appearance been left unfinished. brought to mind associations of another scene, that the practicability of a northwest passage, I bestowed upon it the name of our celebrated after the experience that has been acquired, navigator. Sir Edward Parry, and called it will .scarcely admit that Engof a doubt 453. Parry's Falls.'— p. land would be held altogether inexcusable by her other nation, were she suffer any to Among the many beautiful prints which decorate this work, we .should have been glad own indifference to rob her of all her previto see one of this extraordinary cascade, but |ous discoveries, by passing through the door

—

;

^l—

—

the continued volume of spraj% which con

cealed the water, like that of an Iceland geydifficulty of getting to any .spot vser, the whence a view of the whole could be comprehended, and the horrible staie of the weather, rendered it impossible to obtain any intelligible sketch of it. From this cataract, however, we may obtain a rough estimate of llie whole fall of Back's River. Taking

that the honor which she had herself opened; would descend upon him who first stepped over the thrcshhold, and not on him who led the way to it just as Vasco de Gama has run away with tha honor of having disco* vered the Cape of Good Mope, which had been passed ten years before by Bartholo;

mew Diaz.

He observes, that this is a (jues-

lost sight of by Lake Aylmcr at 600 feet, which is as nearly ithe government that it was the favorite ohas may be on the same level as Sussex Lake, ject of Elizabeth; that it has met with enihe source of the Back, and Slave Lake at icouragoment from almost every succeeding 200 feet above the level of the sea (as esti- sovereign that rewards have been otFered

tion which

has never been ;

;

mated on a former expedition), ihe whole by Parliament for its completion and, in a full of the Back, from Su.ssex Lake to the word, that it has become distinctly and unesea, will be 800 feet and taking the length quivocally a national object. lie tells us of the river at 020 linglish miles, the ave- [there is at the Russian settlement close rage full will be 1.3 feel per mile. Behring's Strait a bold, intelligent, and enit.We must not close the book without onco prising governor (the Baron Wrangel), whoso more expressing our high opinion of its gc- mind is turned (o geographical discovery, neral interest as depicting artlessly and un- who has passed fifty-eight days on the Arctic consciously the noble mind and character yf Siberian Sea, and has two corvettes on his its author. It is needless, after the extracts 'station and that there is eveiy reason to we have given, to add that the narrative is believe he waits only the consent of his go<-leariy and yigomusly penned. As a lite. vernment to try his fortune on an enterprise, rary composition, indeed, it may perhaps the success of whicii would confer on iiis rank higher than any tbrmer volume of tlvat name immortal honor. valuable library which we owe to the Marino The water communication between the Worthies engaged in tlie Northern expedi. Atlantic and Pacific being fully established, tions. the President goes on to ex|)lain the cau.scs Whether it be owing to the return of Back, of the failures that have hitherto occurred. ^or ths fitting-out of ships of \, r to proceed lie says, the attempts can only be considered ;

;

—

' in

search of the unfortunate whalers, the pub. as experimental that the proper route was ho mind has again been turned wilh conside- unknown that to pass the winter in the rable zeal to the subject of northern gcogra. frozen ocean was new that it was thcreforo phy and the northwest passoge. Numerous quite natural to cling to .some shore and propositions having been made to the Royal that henct the failures; -.,, tlu.t the _ .._ originated „..j, Geographical Society on the subject, they heavy ice grounding on the coasts,, especially • appointed a committee to collect the opinions 'on those of narrow straits, into which it has * VOL. I.VI. 21 ;

;

—

r Back's Journey to the Arctic Sea.

102

been drifted, not only endangered the safety of the ships, one of which was totally wrecked, a second nearly su, and a tiiird abandoned but, after being shut up for nine or ten months of the year, any attempt to make progress the second season was utterly paralyzed.

He therefore recommends that king's

ships, properly strengthened, should avoid the straits and shores, and keep to the

broad and open sea, wholly free of ice in summer, and but partially covered in winter he instances the Granville Bay whaler, as being shut up and drifted in the ice six hundred miles, without any material injury and argues that a king's ship has therefore little to apprehend ;

—

if so shut up.

He next asks,

Aprili

He admits, however, that

years' expedition.

eastern portion

tails under the plan of John Franklin, and that no better plan could be suggested. This plan of Sir John Franklin is as follows that a ship, or two small vessels, with two boats, be sent to Wager River, which he supposes cannot be more than forty miles from the extremity of Piince Regent's Inlet > each boat to carry eight per. sons, with two months' provisions the one to be employed in tracing the coast westward towards the part reached by Captain Back, and thence onwards to Point Turnagain the other to follow the east shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, up to the Strait of

the

Sir

—

Where is this open sea be found V and answers the f|uestion by referring to the accounts given by Franklin, lleclaand Fury. He lays down the detail Richardson, J-jlson (the master of Beechej's of the plan for regulating the proceedings of ship) and Captain James Ross. From these the two parties, and their return to the shi|) appears, that along th'^ whole coast of or ships ill Wnger Bay, it He recommends America no land was seen to the northward, Captain James Ross and Captain Back as that the sea was mostly free from ice, and the most proper ollicers for carrying his that the few small detached masses offered plan into execution and adds, in case of no obstruction to the navigation even of the either of them not being at hand when the Ivscpiimaux canoes. Captain James Ross expedition ought to sail, I should feel the proceeded along the western coast of what greatest pleasure in filling his place,' Since has been improperly called Boothia (for Parry '.is, however, Sir John Franklin has ohtainhad discovered and wintered upon it), first eil a more eligible ein|)loymciit, and a willlO the northward, where he fixed the place of deserved reward of his noble career, in the the n agnetic pole, and then to the southward, appointment of governor of Van Dieman's where he erected his obelisk but in no part Laud, Ca[)tain Beaufort, the masterly hydrograof his journey did ho see any land to the westward, nor any impediment to the navi- [iher of the Admiralty, appears to have been this ofliceralso states his called in to pronounce an opinion on the gation of that sea He commences by observing opinioi. that this west coast trends northerly above plans. to Cape Walker, where Parry has described that 'every year seems to bring forward a wide o[)ening to the southward. Sir John some accession of interest to the great <|uestherefore concludes, and we think reasonably tion of the north-west passage, and of the' enough, 'that between the coast of America northern configuration of America,' Ho and the northern ishinds (Melville and others) says that there is an open and, at times, a there is a broad open sea, o[)en enough for a navigable sea passage between the Straits of ship of war to make her way through it.' Davis and Beiiriiig th(!re 'un he no dotihl in As it has been proved that no dilliculty ex- the mind of any person who has duly weigliand it is equally certain ists in the passage through Lancaster Sound va\ the eviilence and Barrow's Strait, that open sea, it may be that it would be an intolerable disgrace to and in such this coimtry were the flag of any other na presumed, is easily attainable own ;' I do not think it tionto lie borne through it before our case,' says the President, '

;

too much to express a liojie tlint the passage (the northwest) would be accomplisiied, and

that hi; is satisfied that the mode pr.)posed by

jjcrhaps in one year.'

could be adopted

Sir

John Barrow is the most prudent that ;

that the easier;!

attempt

geo- by Capo Horn, advocated by som;, would Or. Richardson reconnneads be- highly imiuudent, for reasons wl'ich he graphical. Sothat an expedition shouhl be sent over the states: but he thinks the tieographical same ground already traversed, to take up ciety should recommend to his Majesty's

The other two

[lapers

are

purely

winter quarters at the eastern end of government a humble and more temporary Great Bear Laku; that from hence it should field of action, more appio[)riate to tlie naeconocom[)lete the survey of tin; coast to the west- ture of the institution, more easy and ward of the Mackenzie River, and after tiiat mical in its execution, and iiioio certain aud

its

lie rapid in its result; that to fix the proper eastward of Point Turnagain. object of then lays down the plan to be pursued, the moment for efl'ecting tho ambitioui

to the

1830.

number of men and boats to be employed, and cuts out work enough for at least a three

—

Aprili

employed,

l)c

least a throe

however, that r the plan of bettor plan

kliii

as fuU

niiUl

vessels,

Vii^cr

River,

—

most probably owing to the the duty of missioncr had the north-west passage is solely interview with an invalid government, and the resulting credit, both at hastiness of his the world, ought to be unfortunately mistaken the purport of the

home and throughout solely theirs.

ions

the one

;

in May. it should leave England This recommendation, conveyed by a de-

the

Strait

)wn the

rictail

iroccedings of rn to the shi[)

rccotnnu.'iids

Back as

)tain

OnNo. CIX., p. 32.

—

by Captain

cast shore of

the Admiralty.

We arc informed that the Marquess of himself entitled to comthis-' page, where wo had occasion to introduce an allusion to his lordshiji's evidence before the commissioneis for inquiry into thn condition of the poorer

As regards Westmeath thinks

present year, it is obviou% too late to make preparations for the grand object of But accomplishing the north-west passage. we do confidently trust it will not be abandoned, and that the plan and route pointed

plain of the passage in

;

Lord Westmeath must have misunderstood the passage in question. lordsiiip's doctrine ttiat 'a his We impugned poor law can in no sua pi; be levied in Ire.

classes in Ireland.

out by the President of the Geographical Society, and sanctioned liy the approbation of Captain Beaufort, will be adopted, and

brought to a successful issue.

land

currying his Is, ill case of land

when the feel the

aco.'

tical

lin it,

and a wdl-

carccr, in the

an atiocous violation of the and we put an hypothe-

—

case in order to a[)ply to that doctrine

the logical argument called the reductio ad had not the remotest intenahsurdum.

Since

has otitain-

without

lights of properly'

lould

tion of so far overstepping oi^r

»T

ri»TT

On No. CVI.

Van Dicmun's

—

NOTE. A

Article

r L English

/r' '

ipinion

on the

by oiiserving

bring forward the great (|ues. 1,'c, and of the' Viiierica.'

nid, at times, II

the Straits of

Itc

las

no doubl in duly weigh-

eiinally certain ble disgrace to

any other na fore our

own ;'

proposed by pradent that iaster;i attempt y soim, would isons wl'ich he L'ographicil SoMajesty's liis nore temporary ido at

iate

the na-

;asy and econoloro certain fix

aud

the proper

liitioui object

jurisdiction

^^ ''^ expn^ss any opinion concerning the noprivate character as a land, »' blo marquess's ^ ni Chanty. ' ^ ,

Wf, have received a letter from a clergy-

man who

hydrogras til have been

jrly

the

NOTE.

putation of the Council of the Society, has, we understand been farorably received by the Colothe two departments concerned nial Oflicc and

Point Turn.

)

As to

that

coast westL'd

He therefore recommends the communication made to him.

matter of fact itself, if he really was alluded Society to endeavor to prevail with the gov solemn state. ernment to fit out a small exiicdition this to, the reverend gentleman's summer for Wager Bay, according to the ment is conclusive, general plan of Sir John Franklin ; and

more than of Pilnce Rerry eight pur-

163

Notes.

1836.

supposes himself to be alluded which, on his partial revery from a long and severe illness, NOTE. had been put in his hands by his friends. CIX. No. On p. 87, Article 'Life of Lord The reverend gentleman states that Mho Exmouth,' words and sentiments imputed to him in that passage convey a charge contradicted by That excellent work, the United Service an; opposed to Journal,' calls our notice to the omissi'j.i of his whole ministerial life facts in the parish, which hi is in a conditioiv th" name of Lieut. -General Sir Hudson and attribute to him language Lowe, who certainly ought to have bei^n to [irove whieh he unhesitatingly asserts, and under- mentioned as the able coadjutor of the lato takes to declare on oath if necessary, he Lord Exmouth in the deliverance of MarWc arc very sorry for it, if seilles from the threatened violences of Marnever used.' any such misrepresentation has occurred slial Hrune, and as having equally particibut we believe the author of the article on paled in the honorable acknowledgement of English Charity' quoted the tpsissima rrrba that city's gratitude. The omission was enof a r(!port sent to the New Poor I^aw tirely accidental there is no case in which Board by one of their assistant-commission- we should have been more unwilling to exers. VVeconchido, therefore, that if our cor- hibit the slightest disrespect than in that of respondent bo right in taking to his own pa- the worst used public servant of this age, rish the case alluded to, the nssistant-com- Sir Hudson Lowe. T in this

article,

—

;