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TRAVEL • CULTURE • STYLE • ADVENTURE • ROMANCE

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OCTOBER 2026 vol 25 issue 189

FEATURES CALIFORNIA DREAMING: ORANGE COUNTY

Where else can you perfect your tan lines in a historically LGBTQ artist community, nosh on gay pot pies and ice cream, and ride the world-famous Matterhorn Bobsleds while Cher’s “Believe” is blaring over loudspeakers, all in one weekend?

MUSIC AMONG THE RUINS IN BRESCIA, ITALY

Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the beautiful and fascinating Province of Brescia sits coyly under the radar in the heart of the Lombardy region of Northern Italy.

MARDI GRAS OR BUST: A TRANS-AUSTRALIAN RAIL TRIP

This was a journey that included outback adventures, marvelous marsupials, drag divas, dining under the stars, and so much more. It was an experience only Australia can deliver.

WINE, DINE AND UNWIND IN DOWNTOWN NAPA

On a recent trip to California wine country, we decided to explore Napa’s lively downtown scene on foot, strolling between idyllic shops, artisan cafes, and funky tasting rooms just bursting with personality.

AMAZING DISCOVERIES IN GERMANY

Come with us as we discover UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Baroque and Rococo Palaces, and sail away on a charming Main River cruise in Germany.

EXPLORING MADISON, WISCONSIN

In the rare confluence of college town and capital city, Madison's LGBTQ+ community thrives year-round, with queer-owned breweries, restaurants, and nightlife spots.

EXPERIENCE LGBTQ+ HISTORY & CULTURE IN NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans is a city steeped in history, culture, and spectacular creativity. A lot of its appeal also has a decidedly queer aspect, which makes it an especially rewarding destination for LGBTQ+ travelers.

BUSINESS CLASS

Last July, a parade of rainbow-wrapped Bentleys, McLarens and Rolls-Royces parked cheek-by-jowl at the British Motor Museum in Gaydon, U.K. The colorful caravan was the manifestation of a vision nurtured over years by Wayne Bruce. Also in this issue, meet Ken Lustbader, the co-founder of the LGBTQ Greenwich Village History Tour.

DEPARTMENTS 58

ESCAPE PLAN 8 With 40 plus museums, three opera houses, dozens of classical concert halls, ballet, theater, Michelin star restaurants, and five-star hotels, Frankfurt has becomes a perfect weekend destination. HOTEL THERAPY 10 Join us as we experience The Beach Club At Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina. TRAVEL BOUND Great reads for the savvy traveler.

ON THE COVER: photography Liquid Sky Studio 2 PASSPORT I OcTObeR 2026

SPECIAL EFFECTS 66 Passport’s guide to exciting new products for discerning shoppers. WORLD EATS 68 Grab a fork and explore the exciting dining scene in Providence, Rhode Island. TRAVELING GOURMET 76 Come with us as we partake in the culinary bounty of Phoenix, Arizona. DREAMSCAPE 80 Michelin Key award winner, La Serena Villas in downtown Palm Springs.

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Music AMong the Ruins

BResciA, itALY Photo: Gala Piskunossky

by Christopher Ludgate

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t was like falling in love all over again. I remember the seduction so clearly, with the dreamy moments that satisfied all the romantic notions during my first time in Italy. I’ve returned many times since, always to find so much more of bella Italia just waiting to beguile. During a recent trip, I was mesmerized at the Villa Romana in Desenzano del Garda, fascinated by the Grottoes of Catullus of remote Sirmione, and not least of all, immersed in a symphony of delights in Brescia (visitbrescia.it) with music among the ruins. Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Province of Brescia sits coyly under the radar in the heart of the Lombardy region of Northern Italy. The drive clocked in at ninety minutes from Milano Malpensa, where a Neos Air (neosair.com/us/en) red-eye dispatched me from New York. Also known as the ancient name Brixia, the UNESCO World Heritage site in the city of Brescia remains one of the region’s most prominent hubs, boasting rich cultural roots among its famed vineyards of Franciacorta bubbly. Brescia dates back three millennia, and it has the stunningly well-preserved artifacts to prove it.

BRIXIA I shuffled along the narrow sidewalks of Brescia one morning, watching the artisan shopkeepers open their doors, taking note of antique shops, galleries, and an impressive collection of fine-tailored sartorial offerings in boutique windows. Catching the scent of hand-brewed

espresso and a faint chorus of singers wafting in the air, I watched the vibrant city awaken and continued en route to uncover its past. Piazza del Foro is at the heart of the city’s historical center. Once a great hub of the Roman Empire, it serves as a gateway to archeological treasures dating back to the first century CE, the largest preThe Capitolium Temple served collection in northern Italy. The stunning remains of the Capitolium temple can be admired on the north side of Piazza del Foro, so naked and accessible. It looked like a movie set. If this were Rome, there would be velvet ropes and a line around the corner. I wondered why I hadn’t yet learned about this UNESCO corridor that was about to transport me back through thousands of years in under a mile. But I relished the surprise. I climbed the steps of the pagan temple and wandered along the Corinthian columns. Excavated a century ago, the temple chambers were restored above the original millennia-old floors. The rooms house the collection of relics and artifacts from the site, with the nearly fully intact ancient bronze statue of Winged Victory stealing the show with her elegance. Beneath Brescia’s Archeological Park (Via dei Musei, 55. Tel. +39030-817-4200. bresciamusei.com/en/museums-and-venues) are areas that were known as the ancient republican sanctuary, comprised of underground chambers that once served as temples overlooking the forum. Their original frescoes have retained their vibrancy, further representing the exemplary craftsmanship of the era.

Photo: Christopher Ludgate

music among the ruins in brescia, italy

Street Near Piazza Paolo VI

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Photo: saiko3p

Photo: Christopher Ludgate

Palazzo del Broletto in the Piazza Paolo VI

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music among the ruins in brescia, italy

Photo: Trabantos

Piazza della Loggia

During a recent trip, I was mesmerized at the Villa Romana in Desenzano del Garda, fascinated by the Grottoes of Catullus in remote Sirmione, and not least of all, immersed in a symphony of delights in Brescia with music among the ruins. I roamed inside the actual Roman theater beside the temple, transported, en route to see the indescribably stunning intact relics of Santa Giulia Museum (Via dei Musei, 81 b. Tel. +39-030-817-4200. bresciamusei.com). Castello di Brescia loomed in the distant hills. I followed the sound of ethereal organ music and found myself enchanted atop a hill inside a Benedictine monastery where I sat a while listening. My refuge in Brescia was Corte Novella (Via S. Martino della Battaglia, 16. Tel. +39-030-799-1420. cortenovella.it ), with clean, spacious, modern lodgings, a friendly, accommodating staff, and an impressive breakfast. Corte Novella feels tucked away in a quiet location, but it’s just steps away from all the sights, local life, and stellar dining options like Antica Osteria La Grotta (Vicolo del Prezzemolo, 10, Tel. +39-030-44068. anticaosterialagrotta.it).

THE THREE PIAZZAS Wandering north on tiny Via Paganora toward Piazza Paolo VI, a sliver of a medieval Duomo (visitbrescia.it/en) revealed itself ahead. One after another, a spectacular collection of medieval gems shined as they

soaked up the sunlight pouring into the square. Other structures like Torre del Pégol stood towering in the distance of the bustling piazza. Performers rehearsed blocking for a theatrical opera performance on a grand cafe balcony. I had to step back to take it all in. “Brescia is also very unique for having a piazza with not one but two churches. That is rare in Italy. So, one is used in winter, the other in warm weather,” my local expert guide, Sergio Facchetti, revealed. The Romanesque Duomo Vecchio, built circa 1100, stood like a circular fortress beside the majestic cruciform of the 16th-century Duomo Nuovo (or Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta). Inside the medieval church, high windows allowed atmospheric light to filter in, illuminating hidden staircases and casting dramatic shadows throughout the time capsule. I soaked up the serenity as I gazed at the 13th-century frescoes while crypts below revealed parts of a 6th-century basilica. The Duomo Nuovo church next door blends Baroque and Neoclassical styles within its airy, precious marble walls. The towering Corinthian columns led my eyes to the intricate artwork and gilt décor above. I lay down to take in the view.

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music among the ruins in brescia, italy Later, I paused at Piazza Loggia to ogle Torre dell'Orologio with its ornate 16th-century astronomical clock and automatons. The Renaissance arcades and the Bella Italia monument are highlights here. The latter is made of Brescian marble and signifies Brescia’s liberation from tyranny. The outdoor cafés were lively, and in the air, music and an infectious excitement resonated from nearby historic Teatro Grande (Corso Giuseppe Zanardelli, 9/A. Tel. +39-030-297-9311. teatrogrande.it/en) where musicians and performers were preparing for the annual immersive opera festival. I carried on through Brescia’s distinctive piazzas, wandering beneath the porticos, and cooling off with an evening gelato ritual. Enamored by the treasure trove of history unfolding around me, I stopped at Piazza Vittoria for a photo of The Weight Suspended in Time, a large bronze rhinoceros lingering in mid-air, echoing a metaphor of “the weight of human existence” amid government offices. Stefano Bombardieri’s conceptual sculpture hangs in sharp contrast to the stark Fascist Era architecture dominating Piazza Vittoria, provoking commentary of all kinds.

Midnight Opera Among The Ruins With Festa dell'Opera

Photo: Christopher Ludgate

Midnight Opera Among The Ruins With Festa dell'Opera

Photo: Christopher Ludgate

The 1stcentury Winged Victory is a Symbol of Brescia's Strength Female Jesus at the Museo di Santa Giulia in Brescia

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You have not seen opera in its ethereal splendor until you’ve seen it at midnight, among the ruins in old-world Italy. With many friends in the opera and music world, I am considered opera-adjacent. So I’ve seen many innovative performances over the years, but Festa dell’Opera (festadellopera.it.en) in Brescia allowed me to not just simply go to the opera, but experience it. Historic Brescia is a long-time hub of classical music. In fact, the modern violin family was developed in Brescia beginning in the 16th century. The city’s music scene thrives with year-round productions and numerous festivals. One of the city’s biggest and most notable events is the annual three-day Feste dell’Opera in late spring, when the entire city and beyond comes alive in rousing, often immersive operatic scenes featuring 3000 performing artists and 80 venues. Music really does make the people come together. The festival, in its 14th year, featured performances that would begin spontaneously at any time, in any iconic place, while others were planned and required reservations. Immersive bedroom popups of wildly fun Don Giovanni, surprise balcony performances, arias in the opulence of Teatro Grande, and an ethereal sunrise concert were highlights. The midnight music among the ruins of the UNESCO corridor and the majestic Capitoleum bathed in colorful light, accompanied by a live orchestra and the romance of Verdi, just swooned with atmosphere and ambiance. The festival is noted to be one of the most innovative and inclusive events of the Fondazione del Teatro Grande di Brescia, recognizing it as “a unique, cultural project with a wide scope.” The festival’s 2025 theme was “Freedom and Justice,” celebrating Italy’s liberation 80 years ago. The festival is recognized by the Franco Abbiati Italian music Critics’ Awards for its valuable contribution to education. And it’s free!

THE ALLURE OF SIRMIONE Part of the Province of Brescia, Desanzano del Garda sits on the south-west banks of Lago di Garda, a glacial lake located just minutes from Brescia by car or rail. Panoramic views stretched beyond the sprawling red clay roofs as I wandered along the cobblestone. The

Photo: Christopher Ludgate

MIDNIGHT MUSIC AMONG THE RUINS

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music among the ruins in brescia, italy

Photo: Christopher Ludgate

The Grottoes of Catullus in Sirmione as featured in the film, Call Me by Your Name

"The Weight of Suspended Time" Sculpture by Stefano Bombardieri in the PIazza Della Vittoria

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Photo: Jaroslav Hruska

thriving marina scene below provided ample people-watching opportunities amidst the bustling café scene where I enjoyed a traditional Brescian Pirlo with antipasti. Home to Villa Romana (Via Crocefisso, 22. Tel. +39-030-9143547. museilombardia.cultura.gov.it), Desanzano also offers an intimate look at its archeological finds with sprawling mosaics as they continue to be excavated. A sail in Lake Garda led me to nearby Sirmione, a pivotal filming location for the film Call Me by Your Name. Picture-perfect Sirmione oozes with history along its shores and features Art Nouveau villas and thermal baths. There is an allure that has attracted many into its lush landscapes and mild Mediterranean climate. Sometimes known as the “poet’s peninsula,” Sirmione welcomed the likes of Kafka, James Joyce, Ezra Pound, and D.H. Lawrence, while it also inspired Goethe to get lyrical about lemons. I disembarked and crossed the bridge by the castle, inhaling the salty, sweet, fragrant air. I passed the former home and gardens of opera singer Maria Callas to make my way to the magnificent ruins of first-century Grottoes of Catallus, where a tender scene from Call Me by Your Name was filmed. The scene depicts an unearthed discovery in the grotto where Elio weaves through the columns, realizing his true identity and deep desire for Oliver. Elio then says, “I’m here.” It’s beautifully done. Beyond the grottos is a remote spot known as Jamaica Beach, which discreetly served as a gay beach back in the day. If you knew, you knew, according to the stories. I continued through the elaborate archaeological complex to the water. Enjoying a Pirlo with a slice of lemon in the sunshine at Lido delle Grotte, I looked out into the remote shore, feeling so satisfied to get under the surface and discover so much of this under-the-radar Italian gem.