We are thrilled that COVID restrictions are being lifted throughout the state and excited for the return of beer festivals, concerts, music festivals, and more – just in time for summer! In our cover story, we’ve compiled a Top 5 list of events and experiences – all centered around great craft beer of course – to help make the most of your summertime fun. Take a look and start mapping out your summer vacation. From a trip to the beaches of Coastal Virginia to a camping adventure in Shenandoah National Park and all of the beer and music festivals in between, there’s something for everyone.
In Brew News, we pay tribute to Devils Backbone Brewing Company’s Steve Crandall, who passed away in May after a three-year battle with cancer. Steve was a pioneer in the craft beer scene in Virginia and was instrumental in establishing the Virginia Craft Brewers Guild and lobbying for the passage of SB604 allowing breweries to sell on-site without having to operate a restaurant.
Additionally, the Virginia Craft Brewer’s Guild gears up for the 2021 Virginia Craft Beer Cup scheduled to take place August 16 at Hardywood Park Craft Brewery West Creek. Jeff shares information about NASCAR’s Michael Waltrip’s new brewery opening in Bristol in mid-September. And, he chats with Nathan Stalvey, director of the Clarke County Historical Association, about his historical beer collaboration with Winchester’s Broken Window Brewery and head brewer Jacob Arnaub.
If you’re looking for new beer to try this summer, Jeff provides options in his “Hot and Hazy for Summer” article. He talks to several industry folks about the popularity of New England / Juicy IPAs and what you can expect to find across the Commonwealth in the next few months.
Our brewery profile includes a look at Loudoun county’s first farm brewerydistillery combo, Flying Ace Farm, in Lovettsville. In Brewer’s Corner, Bridgett Turner reveals her favorite craft beer accounts to follow on Instagram. Kevin Anderson shares his conversation with a senior special agent with the Virginia Alcoholic Beverage Control Authority’s Compliance Unit in his ABC compliance article. Plus, Legend Brewing Company launches a new brand along with a new IPA in July. And, Norfolk NATO Festival continues its tradition of brewing a collaboration beer with Bold Mariner Brewing Company.
As always, our Brewery Guide provides motivation to explore all the great breweries the state has to offer. Pack your bags and set off on your next adventure! Cheers!
Jennifer
Passing of Steve Crandall
By Jeff Maisey
Devils Backbone Brewing Company co-founder Steve Crandall passed away May 2 following a three-year battle with terminal cancer.
Crandall was an avid, globetrotting outdoorsman, philanthropist, and pioneer among other things. After a trip to Germany, Steve and his wife Heidi decided to build a brewpub in rural Nelson County to bring a taste of European beers back to Virginia. That was 13 years ago.
Soon after opening Devils Backbone, Steve Crandall worked to establish the Virginia Craft Brewers Guild and the lobbying efforts to achieve what would become SB604, which allowed breweries in Virginia to sell beer on-site without operating a restaurant. This was a selfless act on Crandall’s part as he didn’t need its passage to operate a brewpub, but to his credit he saw the overall good for the emerging industry.
“There are many things that have elevated the Virginia craft beer scene, and Devils Backbone played a huge part in this surge,” said Kevin O’Connor, founder and president of O’Connor Brewing Company in Norfolk in a 2018 interview with Veer Magazine. “From producing award-winning world class beers from a brewpub in the mountains of Virginia to ushering in the new era for breweries with their support of SB604 (the Tasting Room Law) to really pushing the envelope with spreading their beers around the Commonwealth with their state of the art production facility, Devils Backbone has helped secure Virginia as a beer destination.”
“When I founded Starr Hill in Virginia in 1999, there were only seven breweries in the entire state,” recalled Mark Thompson, who today owns The Brewing Tree. “Consumer demand was low and overall beer quality was at times suspect. When Devils Backbone emerged in 2008, it solidified a tipping point of consumer acceptance, elevated quality, and solidified demand for all craft beers in the state.”
Steve Crandall hosted the first four Virginia Craft Beer Cup award ceremonies on the grounds of Devils Backbone in Roseland. His brewery won Best-in-Show the first three consecutive years.
Though Devils Backbone is no longer an independent brewery, Steve Crandall’s legacy will forever be remembered as a trailblazer in Virginia’s beer culture, which would not be where it is today without his generous spirit.
NASCAR Brewery
Two-time Daytona 500 winner
Michael Waltrip is set to open his namesake craft brewery — Michael Waltrip Brewing Company — in mid-September in Bristol in the same historic, multi-floored building previously operated by Studio Brew.
Waltrip’s NASCAR Cup Series career spanned 33 years and 784 races. His first race was the 1985 Coca-cola World 600 in Charlotte.
Ironically, it was at Bristol Motor Speedway, in 1990, where Waltrip suffered his most dramatic car crash, which disintegrated his Kool-Aid Busch Series car.
Fast forward to 2020, Waltrip decided to launch a craft beer company in Phoenix, Arizona featuring a “Two-Time” brand of draft and canned beers that include Checkered Past Coconut IPA, Vamanos Mexican Lager, and Blonde.
“We’re making the styles of beer that I love to drink whether I’m at the track, golf course or just relaxing,” Waltrip said. “It’s going to be great to share my beers with everyone in Bristol and all over the Southeastern part of the country.”
The brewery will also produce taproom-only seasonal and creative special releases.
Steve Crandall (pictured left) in 2014 with wife Heidi and a brewer.
Photo by Kathy Keeney.
Start your beer engines with Michael Waltrip’s core lineup
2021 Virginia Craft Beer Cup
Virginia Craft Brewers Guild will celebrate its 10th year with the prestigious Virginia Craft Beer Cup Awards ceremony, gala and trade show scheduled August 16 at Hardywood Park Craft Brewery West Creek from 5 PM to 9 PM.
The location is a first for the Guild and will provide amble outdoor space plus the use of Hardywood’s huge, high-ceiling interior.
Gold, silver and bronze medals will be awarded in numerous beer style categories with the gold medal winners all having a shot for Best-of-Show and the claim to the Cup trophy.
Old Ox Brewing will host the judging session on June 12. Last year’s overall winner was Black Hoof Brewing Company’s traditional, true-to-style Muzzle Loader Munich Dunkel.
Community Brewing Ventures to Guide Bold Mariner
Community Brewing Ventures (CBV), whose mission is to help small and medium breweries overcome growth challenges, announced a partnership with Norfolk-based The Bold Mariner Brewing Company.
Bold Mariner was established in 2015 by Mike Stacks and quickly made a name for itself with award-winning beers such as Frogman Lager and Direct Deposit.
Aaron Gore, CBV’s director of strategic partnership, made the initial contact with Stacks.
“My role within CBV is to find breweries around the country that have enormous potential, but haven’t had the opportunity to fully realize it yet,” said Gore. “With Bold Mariner, that potential was obvious, from the branding to the liquid, and with owners that were deeply connected to the community and story of Norfolk and coastal Virginia.”
CBV has an in-house R&D facility in Newton, North Carolina. The company works with contract brewers on the east coast to meet volume needs of smaller breweries like Bold Mariner. This allows The Bold Mariner and its staff to focus on local and CBV handles any upscaling on the side.
“We need more people like the folks at Bold Mariner, to keep the “craft” in Craft Beer, and if we can help them be successful while staying true to that spirit, then that is what success looks like to us,” said Gore.
If for whatever reason you were waiting for a hard seltzer to tell you to have fun, well, here you go.
Grinding Out a Historic Lager
By Jeff Maisey
Talk about made from scratch: When Winchester-based Broken Window head brewer Jacob Arnaud and Clarke County Historical Association director Nathan Stalvey discussed collaborating on a pre-Prohibition style lager it was determined ground six-row barley would be needed.
It was the perfect task for Stalvey whose organization owns and operates an 18th century working water-powered gristmill in Millwood, Virginia called the Burwell-Morgan Mill.
Using the mill’s grindstones, they ground-up six-row barley for the brewery to use in a historic process in making a historic beer.
The finished product — Burwell Stone Lager — will be available in early June for tasting at the nano brewery’s tasting room.
To learn more about this intriguing project I reached out to Nathan Stalvey to learn more.
VCB: How did the idea come about to collaborate on a beer using the Mill?
NS: It really was a joint effort. Broken Window’s brewer, Jacob Arnaud, was looking for something different to try as a brewer, and I was looking to work with a craft brewer on some way the
historic Burwell-Morgan Mill could help in a brewing process. Once Jacob showed me how he needed the barley ground, I knew the Mill would be able to grind it in the manner he needed.
VCB: Why was a lager beer style selected?
NS: For much of the 19th and 20th centuries, lager was the most popular style of beer in the United States and it wasn’t close. This was heavily influenced by German immigrants who came to the US in the 19th century. Also, at the end of the 19th century, artificial cooling was invented which allowed lagers to be brewed all year regardless of weather conditions. If you were to go back in time to the turn of the 20th century and went into any tavern or pub, most if not all patrons would be drinking a lager. It was readily available, and with a low ABV you could drink more than a few at at time.
VCB: How would you describe “pre-prohibition” lager as a product?
NS: A “pre-Pro” lager is different than the mass produced lagers that you see today in a number of ways. First, a pre-Pro traditionally uses native six-row barley instead of two-row. This
Ground six-row barley
style also has a malty, grain-like sweetness that gives it more flavor than lagers produced today.
VCB: Where was the barley grown for this beer?
NS: Finding six row barley was difficult, but Jacob was able to find some from Wisconsin.
VCB: Mills were either powered by wind or water. How important were mills in rural Virginia in the past?
NS: Mills were extremely important to Virginia in the past, especially in the Shenandoah Valley. By the time the Revolutionary War ended, wheat was becoming the largest cash crop in the United States. Water powered grist mills like the Burwell-Morgan Mill began sprouting up all over the country. For most of the 19th century, the Shenandoah Valley was the largest supplier of wheat in the United States. These mills were either commercial mills that ground hundreds of thousands of pounds of grain every year that were then shipped across the country and into Europe, or smaller residential mills that served the needs of larger estates. At one point, there were over 40 mills in Frederick County and Clarke County alone. However, by the mid-20th century most of these Mills had fallen into disrepair or were demolished. Very few remain, especially those that are still operational like the Burwell-Morgan Mill. This was a result of modern technology and larger, industrial mills.
VCB: When and how was the Burwell-Morgan Mill restored and made operational?
NS: The Burwell-Morgan Mill was built between 1782-1785 and remained a commercial mill from that point through the turn of the 20th century. By the 1920s, the Mill was starting to fall into disrepair and by the 1950s it was no longer being used. In 1968, the Clarke County Historical Association bought the Mill and through two massive restoration projects in the 1970s and 1990s, brought the Mill back to its former glory.
VCB: Who were the members of the grind team for this project?
NS: On the team were myself, Jacob Arnaud from Broken Window Brewing, and Don Wallace who is one of our long-time Mill volunteers. Kayla Sue Whilite was also on hand from Broken Window Brewing, as well as Melanie Garvey, the Clarke County Historical Association Archivist, to document the process.
VCB: Was this the first such collaboration for the Mill? Will there be more such collaborations in the future?
NS: We once worked with Escutcheon Brewing and had them brew a Colonial-style ale for a talk we did a few years ago on the history of brewing in Virginia. However, the Mill itself was not used in any part of the brewing process. This collaboration with Broken Window Brewing is the first such collaboration we have done and we certainly would love to do more.
IF YOU ARE LIKE US,
you are ready to get out and enjoy all that Virginia has to offer this summer! With more and more people getting vaccinated and restrictions being lifted, additional events are popping up. Plus, there’s so much to experience throughout the Commonwealth from a lazy day at the beach coupled with a tour of Coastal Virginia breweries to a hike through one of VA’s National Parks and rewarding yourself with a local craft beer to listening to live music and sampling great locally brewed liquid. We’ve compiled a list of mustdo experiences and events to keep you busy this summer! Cheers to safe travels!
BEER FESTIVALS BEER FESTIVALS
Beer festivals are returning!
As you know, many beer festivals were either cancelled or postponed due to COVID restrictions. Now that restrictions are lifted, we are happy to see beer festivals popping back up!
Here are a couple to put on your calendar…
Beer, Bourbon, & BBQ
Richmond Saturday, June 12, 12-6pm
Craft beer, bourbon, and BBQ lovers will be in hog heaven at this year’s Beer Bourbon, & BBQ Festival at the Richmond Raceway Complex. There will be two sessions featuring 60+ beers, 40+ bourbons, and lots of tasty barbecue. Patrons can indulge in all the guilty pleasures – beer and bourbon tastings, dancing to bluegrass music, cigar smoking, and barbecue eating.
Craft Beer Festival at Mount Vernon Saturday, June 19 & Sunday, June 20
History buffs will love the opportunity to experience Mount Vernon, the home of our founding father George Washington, after-hours. Pick your night – Saturday or Sunday – and explore the grounds where you’ll see 18th century beer making demonstrations. Plus, you’ll get to sample beer, cider, mead, and spirits from across the region. The Fly Birds take the stage on the Bowling Green from 6 to 8:30pm each night.
LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC
Concerts at outdoor amphitheaters and music festivals are synonymous with summer fun!
Charlottesville native, Dave Matthews plays the United Veterans Home Loans Amphitheater in Virginia Beach on August 28. Sit back on the lawn and enjoy sipping one of Starr Hill Brewery’s Northern Lights as you gaze at the summer sky and let the tunes wash over you or dance around in the pit. In NoVA, check out Dead & Company August 18 at Jiffy Lube Live in Bristow. Either way, eat, drink, and be merry at these must-see concerts of the summer.
If multi-day-long music festivals are more you jam, check out these two…
Red Wing Roots Music Festival – July 9-11
Camping, Beer, and Music! Sounds good to us! Pack your bags and embark on a three-day adventure at the 8th Annual Red Wing Roots Music Festival featuring five stages with more than forty bands. The Natural Chimneys Park and Campground in Mount Solon in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley provides the perfect backdrop. Lounge in the Music Meadows and take in the beauty of the towering limestone chimneys while listening to great music. Bring the whole family for swimming, organized bike rides, yoga, runs, hiking, kids’ activities, and craft vendor, and more. Blue Mountain Brewery is the beer sponsor for the event. So, there won’t be a shortage of great craft beer!
FloydFest21 ~ Odyssey – July 21-25
Hippies unite! FloydFest is back for its 21st year! The folks at Across-the-Way Productions invite you to embark on an ‘Odyssey’ to celebrate one of the Southeast’s premier summer outdoor music festivals. This year’s line-up features more than 100 artists on nine stages and includes headliiners The Avett Brothers, Old Crow Medicine Show, and TURKUAZ w/ Jerry Harrison & Adrian Belew REMAIN IN LIGHT. Take in the beauty of the Blue Ridge Mountains and reconnect with nature as you camp with thousands of your closest friends. You’ll also enjoy an array of vendors, craft beer, food, healing arts, workshops, children’s activities, and more. It’s sure to be a magical five days.
Virginia has an expansive coastline where sun seekers and craft beer drinkers alike can soak up the rays and keep hydrated with a cold craft beer. From hidden beaches along the Eastern Shore to the hustle and bustle of the Virginia Beach oceanfront, there’s something for everyone. We suggest a trip to Cape Charles on the Eastern Shore where you’ll find a quaint downtown district featuring shops, restaurants, a distillery, cidery, and Cape Charles Brewing Company. Or, take a trip to Virginia Beach where you can walk or bike the boardwalk, listen to live music, and visit local craft breweries such as Back Bay Brewing Company, Smartmouth Pilot House, The Bunker, and Vibrant Shores. While there be sure to visit Orion’s Roof at the newly opened Marriott Hotel. The views are spectacular! Coastal Virginia features over 50 breweries in total. Come thirsty!
THE B E ACH THE B E ACH A TRIP TO BREWERY TOUR BREWERY TOUR TAKE A
There are several bus and trolley tours offered throughout the state where you can visit breweries and cideries and safely imbibe without worrying about driving! RVA on Wheels offers private trolley tours in Richmond. You can see the sights and learn about Richmond’s landmarks and history while visiting local breweries. Hop on Cville in Charlottesville offers a variety of destinations including the Crozet Tour, Route 151 Tour, and The Evening Tour where you’ll visit four destinations and stay an hour at each spot. Destinations include breweries such as Starr Hill Brewery, Pro Re Nata, Blue Mountain Brewery, The Brewing Tree, Wild Wolf Brewery, and more. Plus, you can mix it up by adding cideries, wineries, or distilleries to the tour.
EXPLORE THE
GREAT OUTDOORS GREAT OUTDOORS
Take in the tranquility, beauty, and history of the Commonwealth by visiting a National Park or Cavern. Virginia features twenty national parks including The Shenandoah National Park, Virginia’s oldest national park, dedicated on July 3, 1936. It spans the Blue Ridge from Front Royal to Waynesboro. There’s plenty of lodging options from cabins to hotel rooms to campsites, activities and events, and plenty of day hikes. Depending on where you enter the park, explore breweries such as Front Royal Brewing Company in Front Royal and Basic City, Seven Arrows, and Stable Craft in Waynesboro.
Additionally, Virginia features eight caverns throughout the southwest and Shenandoah Valley. The Luray Caverns are the largest caverns in the eastern U.S. and a national landmark. Explore the spectacular rock formations. Then, venture into the small town of Luray where you can quench your thirst with a Hooray for Luray IPA or The Haymaker Cream Ale at Hawksbill Brewery. Outdoor adventure abounds in Virginia. Make sure your cooler is packed and happy trails await!
CENTRAL VIRGINIA
Three Year Anniversary at Brewing Tree
Sat., June 12, 11am-10pm
Celebrate Brewing Tree’s 3 Year
Anniversary with a bayou bash with Cajun food including a crawfish boil and sausage and chicken jambalaya from The Louisiana Boys. Wash it down with a great selection of Brewing Tree beer, wine, and cider. Live music by Seleus from 4-6pm and Kendall Street Company from 7-9pm.
Kids activities with Little Planets. Brewing Tree Beer Company 9278 Rockfish Valley Highway, Afton
Father’s Day at The Farm
Sun., June 20, 11am-8pm
Enjoy scenic views and delicious cider while you celebrate Dad!
Bryant’s Cider Farm
3224 East Branch Loop, Nelson County
Lagerfest at Fine Creek
Sat. & Sun., July 3 & 4, 12-6pm
Celebrate 4th of July at Lagerfest, featuring a cookout and guest lagers in addition to our own. Guest breweries TBD.
Fine Creek Brewing Company
2425 Robert E. Lee Road, Powhatan
Low Country Boil at Blue Mountain Barrel House Sat., July 3, 12-6pm
Celebrate Independence Day with a traditional Low Country Boil. Other food options will also be available. Live music all day. Kid friendly.
Featuring a special co-branded COVA & Festevents Harbor Fest 2021 glass. COVA Brewing Company 9529 Shore Drive, Norfolk covabrewco.com
Deadbolt Day at Virginia Beer Co. Sat., June 12
Featuring live music by Blind & Dirty and taproom-only fruited variants of VBC’s OG American hop.
The Virginia Beer Co. 401 2nd Street, Williamsburg virginiabeerco.com
Kolsch Day at COVA Brewing Sat., June 19, 1-7pm
Enjoy an authentic Kolsch bar experience like you might find in Cologne, Germany. Participants will receive a limited edition COVA Kolsch glass and can purchase authentic German food from Deutscher Imbiss during the event. Prior registration is required.
COVA Brewing Company
9529 Shore Drive, Norfolk covabrewco.co
1st Year Anniversary Bash at COVA Brewing
Sat., June 26, 12-7pm
Celebrate with us! There will be live music, food trucks, a special beer launch, limited edition COVA Anniversary glassware, and more!.
COVA Brewing Company
9529 Shore Drive, Norfolk covabrewco.com
Ales & Tails at Big Ugly Sat., June 26, 5:30-8:30pm
Join PAWS of Hertford County at Big Ugly to support shelter cats and dogs. Enjoy delicious brews, listen to live music, and visit with some adoptable dogs!
Big Ugly Brewing Company
845 S. Battlefield Blvd., Chesapeake biguglybrewing.com
NORTHERN VIRGINIA
Third Anniversary Party at Eavesdrop Brewery Sat., June 19, 12-8pm
We’ll be celebrating all weekend with the main event happening Saturday featuring live music, guest breweries, vendors, good eats, beer releases, baby goats, and more! 7223 Centreville Road, Yorkshire eavesdropbrewery.com
SHENANDOAH VALLEY
Eighties Dance Party at Stable Craft Brewing
Sat., June 19, 6:45-9:45pm
Wear your best 80’s attire and come get down with us. DJ Glen Fitzgerald is taking it back with timeless 80’s tunes. 375 Madrid Rd., Waynesboro stablecraftbrewing.com
Summer Jam at Massanutten Sat., July 3, 5-10pm
Music, beer, wine, food, and fireworks! Massanutten Ski Area
Enjoy award-winning blues music, craft beer, food, and crafts.
The Club at Ironwood 62 Country Club Circle, Staunton 540.324.3215 • shenandoahconcerts.com
Christmas in July at Stable Craft Brewing
Sat., July 24, 12-10pm
Featuring Santa Claus, Hawaiian Shirt Contest, Tropical Cider Release, Hawaiian Burger Special, and more.. 375 Madrid Rd., Waynesboro stablecraftbrewing.com
Rebranding in the Cards for Legend
By Jeff Maisey
Emerging from the hazy fog of a 21st century plague, a young RVA craft beer drinker seeks advice from a mystical seer.
Beer Drinker: Tell me ol’ wise one of the past, present and future, what do you see in the cards ahead for Legend Brewing Company?
Ol’ Wise One: I am turning the first card over now to reveal this fortune, and it is a Two of Swords.
Beer Drinker: I have heard in tarot card readings the Two of Swords in an upright position generally means stalemate, a truce, or being at a crossroads.
Ol’ Wise One: Perhaps, the brewers at Legend couldn’t agree on a singular hop so they chose two — Mosaic and Motueka. I’m envisioning a silver can with a white label. A pair of Medieval swords crossed with a crescent moon and black stars. Floral green hop cones and leaves hang in the background.
Beer Drinker: What does this all mean?
Ol’ Wise One: A wonderfully flavorful Double IPA. I suggest you ingest two as soon as possible, and then you should go out into the virgin land known as Virginia and bestow this knowledge to those who thirst for great beer.
The beer revealed is in fact to be released in the future — July 12 — and Richmond-based Legend Brewing Company is calling it Two of Swords Double IPA. It’ll be available on draft and in 16-oz cans. Its ABV is 8.3%.
Legend enlisted the creative help of Zest Lab to develop a new side series to help the longtime — established by Tom Martin in 1994 — brewery remain relevant in today’s ever-changing craft beer landscape.
“There’s a ton of stuff brewing at Legend,” said Geoff Stone of Zest Lab. “Legend may be the grandfather of Virginia craft beer, but it’s their experience that enables them to change, adapt, and face the challenges of our competitive post-COVID world.”
Legend Brewing Company is known far and wide for its allstar Brown Ale, but it also has a longstanding cast of excellent core products: Lager, Pilsner, IPA, Porter, and now Hazy Days IPA. Popular seasonals include Z Dam, Oktoberfest, and Winter White.
Legend Brewing has also delivered a series of single-batch 30-barrel beers: Oak Aged Series, Urban Legend Series, and a new Single Batch DIPA Series launched in mid-April with the SPCA Fur Ball Beer.
Dave Gott, Vice President of Legend Brewing Company, said the Two of Swords DIPA is derived, in part, from a DIPA series designed for the brewery’s 25th anniversary.
“The concept is how do we lump “two” into a double IPA series,” Gott said. “We came up with a tarot card — the Two of Swords. The swords kind of tie into who we are; that historical European model. And all of our double IPAs use two hops.”
According to Gott, the combination of Motueka and Mosaic hops used in past limited batch DIPAs received the best praise from customers. This was an obvious choice for Two of Swords.
Legend Brewing plans to build on the tarot card series. Perhaps a Nine of Cups brew could be of interest at some point for Legend as it generally means having your wish fulfilled and feeling satisfied. For folklorish fans of Jethro Tull, maybe Cup of Crimson Wonder, a chalice of red fluid (representing blood) which gives life to others — yes, a Red DIPA.
If, of course, it’s in the cards.
In addition to the DIPA series, Legend is doubling down on its original Olde English lettering style logo to remind fans of the brand’s core.
“We retain our history and the integrity of the brand over the last 27 years, but the new brand refresh still looks kinda new and pops out of the (retail) shelves,” said Gott. “We are keeping the color-coding palette we’ve always used.”
The Legend continues…
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Flying Ace Takes Off
Words by Michael T. Jarvis • Photos by KM
F lying Ace Farm in Lovettsville definitely has the best of everything that begins with a B: a brewery, bourbon, barbecue, beer and bands. Add a large airplane that hangs from the ceiling inside plus enough seats for 1,300 people and you have arguably one of the largest independent breweries in Virginia. The massive operation is the first farm brewery-distillery combo in Loudoun County, now home to 35 breweries. Ten years ago, only two breweries existed in Loudoun, which has become the go-to weekend mecca for beer and wine lovers from Washington DC and beyond.
Digital
Flying Ace is the dream of distillery and brewery owner Hadi Akkad. “I feel pretty excited about this venture,” he says. “I’ve been working at it for more than two years. We’ve gotten real good feedback from everyone who has come out and tasted our products.”
The company is named for his grandfather, an American flying ace in World War II and the Korean War, as well as for other flying aces. After opening April 15, the site is definitely drawing lovers of aviation, bourbon and barbecue.
For Akkad, it was love at first sight. “It was very clear when I rolled up on this property. This was a corn farm. I knew I wanted this. The barn was red, the sky was blue and the silo was white. I looked at several other properties. My wife said that I should look beyond the first place I looked. So, I did. But, I always came back to here. I said, ‘This is perfect.’ We saved this from being a housing development. The closest brewery is Vanish. They are less than five
Stunning aerial view of Flying Ace Farm
Brew day at Flying Ace.
miles away. I am a mile away from Maryland and West Virginia is close. I always say, tongue in cheek, that I am really building this for me. I want to come out here on the weekend and enjoy it.”
The Aces
Akkad has assembled an impressive group of talent. The food, which is nothing short of fantastic, comes from Kristin and Brian “Monk” Jenkins, who have staked out a second location here, Monks on the Farm, which offers slightly different fare than the flagship Purcellville location. The original Monks in Purcellville has been named among the best BBQ restaurants in the DC region by The Washington Post.
Steve O’Neil, the former brewer at The Church Brew Works in Pittsburgh, is notorious in beer circles for winning the Brewer of the Year award at the 2012 Great American Beer Festival among large brewers. “I looked beyond Virginia for a brewer and I got him to move here,” says Akkad. “Steve is known for German-style beer. It is perfect for Lovettsville. I like the traditional beers. I am not into the ‘stranger beer’ like fruity pebbles. I like carbonation. I can’t drink flat beer. I like beer that is readily available and delicious.”
Flying Ace uses a 20-barrel system plus several 20 and 40-barrel fermenters for a great variety of beers. The Warbird wit, finished with orange and coriander, has a
delicious apricot taste. The Air Boss Pilsner also is worth the wait while the staples include some tasty beers with fun names like Dogfight Ale and Lights Out Stout. Akkad admits he is more into bourbon than beer and Flying Ace serves three types as well as an 80-proof silver rum. “You don’t get bourbon this good right away. It takes a long time to taste good. It will take five years before we serve our own bourbon.” In the meantime, several blends are available and popular for off-site souvenirs.
Greg Moore, the head distiller, comes from Catoctin Creek Distillery of Purcellville. Also on board is local Pete
Thomas, an Ace partner who seems to be the glue of the operation. “Pete and I met through another friend six years ago and he has experience with construction and business,” Akkad says.
The Boss
Akkad seems to have avoided some of the regulatory pitfalls that often swallow novice brewery owners. “The Virginia ABC (Alcoholic Beverage Control Authority) has been relatively easy compared to where I have been. This is my first rodeo in this type of business, but not my first rodeo.” He previously built websites for the US Navy, American Express and physicians in Maryland in the mid to late 1990s. One day, when his friend asked him to partner and build a financial platform for no cash, he rolled the dice and it became a success. In 2018, that company was acquired by US Bank.
Now, he is in the hospitality industry and seems to be having the time of his life. Some historic aircraft already have participated in flyovers at Flying Ace and Akkad has plans to fly in a few householdname bands for some mini-concerts, just for the fun of it. “This will be a flagship for Virginia,” Akkad says. “No one has seen anything like this.”
Friends gather inside the spacious tasting room.
Quality control is key at Flying Ace.
7 Craft Beer Accounts to Follow on Instagram
By Bridgette Turner
These accounts aren’t in any particular order, with the exception of 1 and 2, because they’re my favorites. I chose 7 accounts because the number 7 reminds me of George Costanza.
@21stamendmentgirl
Chelsea Bailey is the content creator for this account and she gets my top spot for several reasons. Mostly because her photography is dope, and her post descriptions are educational, funny, and insightful. She’s quite sassy and feisty, and she’s not afraid to troll the trolls who post bullshit in her comments section. Chelsea is also my coworker at Mustang Sally Brewing, working as our Social Media Manager, so she gets brownie points for that. But the BEST reason she’s #1 is because I used to watch her chug videos on the Facebook group “All About the Chugs” before I knew her or worked with her. I thought she was hilarious and quirky. When I found out we’d be coworkers, I stalked her socials and found her Instagram handle. When I searched for her account so I could continue stalking her, I realized that I was ALREADY following her. And I’d been following her for many, many moons. So basically, I liked Chelsea’s Instagram account before I liked Chelsea’s chug videos and before I liked Chelsea IRL. Chelsea is just as cool in person as she is on social media. If you follow her, you’ll definitely learn about some cool new beers, and I guarantee you’ll want to be her friend. She also has a cute rescue dog named Toothless.
@afro.beer.chick
This Chicago-based beer lover is my favorite advocate for Black people in the craft beer world, as well as an amazing representative for women in the industry. Her name is Chalonda White, and she knows what’s up. She’s 100% knowledgeable about craft beer, and she runs a podcast called “This Chick Talks Beer.” Additionally, her branding is killer and I want all of her stickers. If I ever visit Chicago, Chalonda will be the first person I call. I want to be her friend and pick her brain. She also has an Instagram account dedicated to bourbon, which I embarrassingly know very little about. Luckily, Chalonda is quite a connoisseur, and you can follow her bourbon life @theneatpour. She has a podcast about bourbon too, which is also called “The Neat Pour.”You should listen up because Chalonda is a cool Black woman running two podcasts about two industries that are dominated by white guys. I mean, c’mon. Girl is fierce. She’s also super nice, and I love her.
@wortwrangler
If you enjoy smirking, craft beer, and memes, this is the account for you. This dude’s posts are almost annoyingly accurate as he makes fun of craft beer nerds, and reveals the horrifying realities of professional brewing. His sense of humor is a little vulgar, but I like it. All of his content is original, or credited, and he also has a podcast called “The Mash Pit.” I’ve never listened to his podcast, but I’m sure it’s funny. I creepily wonder what his voice sounds like. His point of view is unique compared to other beer accounts, and his jokes make me cry sometimes. Especially the one he posted on August 24, 2020. His name is Antonio, and his email etiquette is lovely. Antonio likes exclamation points, so we have that in common!
Chalonda White is afro.beer.chick. Image courtesy of Chalonda White.
brewer’scorner@worstbeerblog
Do you like baby llama drama in craft beer form? Do you love trolling internet trolls? Are you easily enraged or extremely amused by the horrible decisions of craft breweries? Look no further than this cray cray Instagram account. And for the love of all things boozy, do NOT be the topic of one of these posts. This guy points a big, scary middle finger at any brewery that fucks up. Maybe it’s sexist, racist, political, IP theft, embarrassingly bad grammar, or screenshots of dirty deletes. He sees all, and he will definitely call you on your shit. Sometimes I think, “Could this end up on @ worstbeerblog?” If it’s even remotely close to a maybe, I do not do that thing. He keeps us all in line. He also has a Facebook page. Follow him for cautionary tales, excellent comment sections, and up to the minute beer news and dumpster fires. This Instagram friendo keeps his identity anonymous, so he’s basically an undercover spy, and probably a double agent. I just realized he might not even be a guy.
@dssolvr
This is the only brewery account I’m including on my list. When you follow them, you’ll see why. They’re located in Asheville, NC and I’ve never even drank one of their beers. My coworker is a total fanboy though, so I know they’re making good stuff. They’re on my list because their Instagram account is so incredibly badass, it’s silly. It’s so cool to look at, you’ll find yourself studying every detail. I have no idea how they do it, and I wonder if their social media manager is an insane person. Or they’re super intelligent to the point of weirdo-ness. Or so super cool that I’d be a shadow of myself in their presence. One thing is certain, this Instagram account will make your brewery’s page look lame AF. I’m a big fan of excellent branding, and Dssolvr is nailing it. I also like aliens. Follow Dssolvr for awesome, creative branding and pretty colors. I should probably drink one of their beers. ISO.
@dogsontap
No long explanation needed here. They post cool photos of dogs and craft beers. Follow them for fluffers, puppers, doggos, floofs, yippers, yappers, tippy-tappers, and craft beers. Tag them in your own doggie-beer posts for a chance to be immortalized on their page. My dog isn’t photogenic, so she’s out.
* as of press time, this account was deactivated.
@isbeeracarb
Last, but certainly not least, is this craft beer queen with colorful hair. Megan is a professional brewer, Baltimore native, and lives in San Diego. She does brewery consulting in addition to everything else she does. She’s a mover, shaker, and a huge advocate for career driven women and LGBTQ+ persons in the craft beer industry. She posts beautiful photos, writes great descriptions, and the Instagram handle is a Mean Girls reference. My dog’s nickname is Regina George, so I derive great pleasure in this coincidence. Megan is also a kick ass representative for social media influencers in the craft beer world. She mostly posts model-esque photos of herself with the cool beers she’s drinking. There’s a lot of haters who troll social media influencers, especially women in craft beer. Megan’s account is an excellent reminder that we all rule, no matter who you are. Haters gonna hate, but haters make you famous. Keel socially influencing me Megan. I love it.
It’s important to mention that I chose to start this article with Chelsea’s Instagram account and end with Megan’s because I need to address the internet trolls out there. Chelsea and Megan do not tolerate bullies, and neither do I. If you’re a troll, I’m almost 100% positive that you troll in secrecy.Your friends and family probably don’t know what a keyboard monster you are.You lurk behind your WiFi because you know trolling isn’t cool.
My mama used to say that bullies are just jealous or insecure... such a mom thing to say. My psychology professor said that people dislike other people who possess the qualities that they dislike about themselves. There’s a lot to unpack there. Point is, if you’re mad about a person on social media who is confident, funny, intelligent, good looking, talented, or wearing a bikini while drinking a craft beer and getting hundreds of likes, then you’re probably not mad...you’re just super jelly or self-loathing. That sucks, but you can change. Try not posting a f*#ked up comment. Keep your rude attitude to yourself. On the other hand, if you’re just a flat out d*#k who enjoys pissing people off and hurting their feelings, then you’re probably a narcissist or a sociopath. I would not enjoy your company.
For the non-trolls (aka cool, normal people), continue celebrating people with awesome social media accounts. Everyone loves your nice comments, so keep it up. If you personally know an internet troll, you should call them out on it. If you see a stranger post a nasty comment, and you have the time and energy to engage them, you should call out those people too. I personally choose to troll the trolls with my love. My mama always says, “Kill them with kindness.” Sometimes that actually works! Unfortunately, my mom has no idea how to use Instagram, but if she did, she would only write lovely comments. Kindness can change the world. It’s a contrite saying, but it’s 100% true.
Now this is the part where I shamelessly promote my own Instagram account! Lol jk, absolutely not. My page is wildly mediocre. If you want to follow me, you can tap into your inner internet sleuth/stalker. Just don’t show up at my house, you weirdo. My dog is a mean girl, and she would love to bite you.
Hot & Hazy for Summer
By Jeff Maisey
Summer forecasts call for hot and hazy days ahead, and we’re not just talking about the weather.
Hazy IPAs, also referred to as New England IPAs or Juicy IPAs, are expected to be in blazing demand again and independent craft breweries in Virginia are well positioned to keep the supply fully stocked.
India Pale Ale (IPA) as a beer category was already the dominant craft beer seller across the board. Hop-heads sprang up soon after the craft beer Renaissance of 2010-12 gained popularity. Those enthusiasts seemed to favor West Coast IPAs — the more bitter the better — over traditional red ales, stouts, hefeweizens, and saisons.
Interestingly, a new variation dubbed New England IPA emerged on the main stream stage of craft beer only recently. The cloudy, orange juice looking brew features complex hop aromas yet with greatly reduced bitterness. The NEIPA style is attributed to a recipe developed by John Kimmich of The Alchemist Brewery. He brewed the first NEIPA in January 2004 — Heady Topper.
So why is the style so popular now?
“Hazy and juicy IPAs are the fastest growing sub-sector of the IPA craft category,” said Duke Fox, Vice President of Sales with Crozet-based Starr Hill Brewery. “I think the reason for the appeal is that while IPAs have always dominated overall craft sales, the taste profile of these new New England-style IPAs appeal to more consumers who find the traditional IPAs too bitter. The New England/Hazy/Juicy IPA styles really took hold in the brewery tap rooms but they are now dominating in the package sales sector as the more of these newer IPAs gain mass distribution.”
Mitch Steele, Brewmaster/COO/Co-founder of New Realm Brewing Company in Virginia Beach, literally wrote the book on
IPAs for modern brewers when he was at Stone Brewing. He shared this view: “Since the beginnings of craft beer, innovation has driven excitement and fueled the creation of many new beer styles. Hazy IPA was the next step in the continuing evolution of the American IPA category in the 2010s. Some of the techniques and ingredients used were a significant departure from the IPAs that were being brewed prior, and the result was a new, unique flavor profile in the beer. Fans of craft beer often enjoy contributing to the emergence of a new style. Hazy IPAs have complex hop flavors, and are less bitter than West Coast IPAs, so that makes them attractive to a wider range of beer drinkers.”
Bryan Summerson, co-owner/head brewer of Big Lick Brewing Company in Roanoke, agrees wholeheartedly.
“I believe they’re popular because of their approachability,” said Summerson. “Most people, myself included, love that soft mouthfeel without the bitter punch. They also love the flavors and aromas of all the different varieties of hops, which are showcased in this style.”
Summerson said Big Lick now only brews one West Coast IPA — “Peace, Love & Hoppiness” — but produces three different Hazy IPAs per month on average, including Shabby Chic Hazy IPA and This Time IPA #37.
Is that a sign of Hazy IPAs overtaking West Coast styles?
Starr Hill is amping up a big summer push with Sonic Haze
“I think they may already have, but I expect West Coast IPAs to remain popular as well,” said Mitch Steele. “I think both styles will co-exist for a long time.”
Duke Fox sees Sierra Nevada’s Little Hazy Thing as the market leader nationwide and acknowledges the category has expanded from a niche style as breweries continue to push NEIPAs.
Last spring as the pandemic raged, Starr Hill released Ramble On as its flagship-level Hazy IPA. To bolster their position in the category, Starr Hill unveiled Sonic Haze, described as “an intense blast of Galaxy, Mosaic and Falconer’s Flight hops, double dryhopped, unfiltered and raw.”
“Sonic Haze is a brand that we developed in our pilot brewery as a draft-only option for the tap rooms given the demand for this style of beer from the consumer,” said Duke Fox. “The issue with Hazy IPAs is that they really need to be sold in a can because of the unfiltered nature of the beer. So while the taste is not impacted by the floating protein that can sometimes be seen in the beer, the consumer prefers the can as the primary package vessel. We recently invested in a new canning line that allows us to package significantly larger amounts of can beer. Once we made this investment, we were able to develop the branding to offer Sonic Haze to the consumer in a can offering.”
Fox noted when West Coast IPAs and Hazy IPAs are packaged with equal distribution and visibility, Hazy wins the day in sales.
New Realm Brewing Company has seen outstanding success with its Hazy Like a Fox, which was added to its core product portfolio and widely distributed from Georgia to Virginia. New Realm also adds some fun for the “what’s new crowd” with limited releases of T-Flex, which is part of its thematic Monsters & Myths series of Double IPAs.
From a brewer’s perspective, Mitch Steele adds this: “The Hazy IPA presents a very interesting biochemistry — from yeast interactions with the hops to produce juiciness, the haze formation and haze stability. They are a challenging beer to brew consistently well, and there is a lot of scientific research going on right now that will help brewers figure out the best way to brew these.”
Across the Commonwealth of Virginia this summer, locals and tourists alike will encounter more Hazy IPAs than ever, including Smartmouth’s Family Photosynthesis, Lucy Juicy from Solace Brewing Company, Mattapo-NEIPA from Dragon Run Brewing, and Benchtop’s Gong Water.
“Folks keep saying the style is a fad,” said Brian Summerson, “but it’s by far our best-selling beer, no matter the recipe I come up with. That speaks volumes to me.”
NATO Festival Beer Brings People Together
By Jeff Maisey
In what has now become a Norfolk NATO Festival tradition — born five years ago — a collaboration beer pairing The Bold Mariner Brewing Company and NATO Headquarters will be featured at the Festival’s International Village for all to enjoy — on Saturday, June 5 at Scope Plaza following the 10 AM flag raising ceremony.
For this year’s collaboration, the Festival sought to celebrate two great European beer cultures by inviting representatives from Belgium and the Czech Republic to directly participate both in the brewing of the beverage and naming the finished product.
The joint forces brewing effort is called Poppy Ruza Pilsner. The poppy and the rose (Ruza is Rose in Czech) are the national flowers of Belgium and the Czech Republic.
Joining Bold Mariner head brewer John O’Reilly one early morning in April were NATO Allied Command Transformation staff officers Cmdr. Lieven Goussaert, Belgium Navy; Lt. Col. Ronald Hoppe, Belgium Air Force and Lt. Col. Radek Pilar, Czech Republic Air Force.
The NATO personnel toured the brewery, discussed the brewing process, and each climbed the ladder to pour bags of malt into the brewing kettle.
The agreed upon beer style was a pilsner, an easy drinking beverage widely enjoyed in all the world.
Pilsners as a beer style are classified as a pale lager. The name is taken from the city of Pilsen in the Czech Republic (Bohemia) where Bavarian brewer Josef Groll brewed the first batch in 1842 for Pilsner Urquell (originally called Burghers’ Brewery).
Pilsner style beers are, in fact, widely produced in Europe. While Belgium is known for its many high alcohol Trappest beers like Chimay, Rochefort, and Westmalle, its most successful brewed beverage is Stella Artois, a Belgian pilsner.
While pilsners may seem like an ordinary beer to produce, they require five full weeks of fermentation and are susceptible to variations in temperature and light exposure. And for all the hoopla over IPAs, most American brewers prefer a solid pilsner.
“In my opinion, a great pilsner is crisp, dry, with a lot of hop flavor and aroma but not too bitter,” said O’Reilly.
So, what’s in Poppu Ruza Pilsner?
“There’s really just two key ingredients to this year’s NATO brew,” O’Reilly explained. “The first is high quality floor malted bohemian pilsner malt and the second being Czech Saaz hops. These two ingredients are instrumental to this beer style.”
The Norfolk NATO Festival recognizes and celebrates the longstanding friendship between NATO and the City of Norfolk. It is the longest continuously running festival in the Hampton Roads region, and the only one of its kind in the United States, which, honors the NATO Alliance and its member Nations.
The Festival views its role as a community educator sharing the cultural relevance of the NATO nations and personnel stationed in Norfolk. Each member nation is eager to share its culture with Americans, and for nearly 70 years, the Festival has been an essential partner. And, as it turns out, the Festival Beer solidifies everything.
“Belgium is the beer capital,” said Lt. Col. Ronald Hoppe of the Belgium Air Force. “It’s very deep in our culture and heritage. We brew from 800 to 3,000 different beers.
“For us, the Norfolk NATO Festival is very important because it forms a bond between NATO and Norfolk and the USA,” concluded Hoppe.
“Beer is certainly very important for the Czechs,” said Lt. Col. Radek Pilar of the Czech Republic Air Force. “I had a chance to participate in Norfolk NATO Festival before, and it was an outstanding event. One of the most important things in one’s life is to travel around the world as much as possible so that one can experience other cultures and one can understand why people do things, and to better understand the world. That’s what the Norfolk NATO Festival is about.”
Reflecting on the brew day at Bold Mariner, Cmdr. Lieven Goussaert, Belgium Navy keenly observed, “This is something Zoom cannot replace.”
As all parties began to depart from the brewery, NATO Public Affairs Officer Lt. Cmdr. Rochelle Rieger of the US Navy summed it up perfectly: “This is one thing that really unites us all — the beer.”
Brew day at The Bold Mariner.
APPALACHIA
Busted Still Brewing Company
185 Homeplace Drive, Gate City
276.210.6038
Lonesome Pine Brewing Company
15 East Main Street, Lebanon
276.274.3697
Painted Peak Brewing Company
386 Main Street, Tazewell
276.980.7325 • paintedpeakbrewing.com
Sugar Hill Brewing Company 16622 Broad Street, St. Paul 276.780.4397 • sugarhillbrewing.com
BLUE RIDGE HIGHLANDS
7 Dogs Brewpub
360 W. Spring Street, Wytheville 276.228.0994 • 7dogsbrewpubva.com
A Sit Down with a Virginia ABC Senior Special Agent
by Kevin N. Anderson, Regulatory Consultant
During the Winter months of 2021, we were able to talk with Senior Special Agent Jonathan Pine of the Virginia Alcoholic Beverage Control Authority’s Compliance Unit.Virginia ABC’s Compliance Unit works with beer manufacturers, wholesalers, importers and out-of-state shippers in the alcoholic beverage industry. These Senior Special Agents are the industry gatekeepers. They review applications, conduct license holder audits and inspections, ensure tide-house compliance, provide consumer safety and much more. Let’s get started.
Senior Special Agent Pine, how did you get started working for Virginia ABC and why did you decide to become a Special Agent?
In early 2012, I transferred to Virginia ABC’s Bureau of Law Enforcement after serving as a Virginia State Police Trooper. ABC provides opportunities to conduct complex investigations and I’m able to further my knowledge and experience as a law enforcement officer.
What does a Senior Special Agent with Virginia ABC’s Compliance Unit do?
Virginia ABC’s Compliance Unit serves as a first-line resource for alcoholic beverage industry licensees such as manufacturers, wholesalers, importers and out-ofstate shippers. We provide guidance and interpretation on alcohol laws and regulations, grant licenses, enforce industry regulations, deliver training on industry matters and offer expert guidance on tied-house issues. At least once a year, we conduct inspections, which provides licensees the opportunity to meet us and ask questions.
How has the boom in new Virginia brewery openings impacted Virginia ABC and your Compliance Unit?
The increase in brewery applications has certainly kept us busy. It has also provided the opportunity for us to disseminate information and resources to a larger group of folks in the industry.
Please discuss some of the main compliance issues which you and your compliance unit face when working with the brewing industry. Compliance issues vary from advertising to more complex tiedhouse and trade practice subjects. It’s important that licensees in the industry reach out to their assigned ABC agent and discuss any concerns or ideas they may have regarding Virginia’s alcohol regulations or laws. The compliance unit agent’s contact information is available on Virginia ABC’s website at https://www.abc. virginia.gov/enforcement/bureau-oflaw-enforcement/compliance-unit.
Do you have a question you would like answered in our Compliance Corner article?
Please email your questions to vacraftbeer@alcoholconsulting.com.
How has the COVID-19 crisis changed the way your compliance unit conducts business?
When the pandemic hit Virginia, we were no longer able to conduct inperson inspections and site visits. Despite this hurdle, we continue to stay in touch with our licensees. In many cases, we have used technology to continue our goal of providing the best service possible. There have been a number of modifications to regulations due to COVID-19 and we have shared that information with our licensees. Shipping has been a primary means of business for many of our licensees and we have done our best to process new licenses without delay. We understand that this pandemic has greatly affected our licensees and we’re committed to supporting them when possible.
What is your favorite type of beer?
In the nine years I have been with ABC, I have learned a lot about Virginia’s brewing industry and the different types of beers available to consumers. As a regulator, every licensee is equally important. Therefore, I must remain neutral.
We would like to give a special thank you to Senior Special Agent Pine and the Virginia Alcoholic Beverage Control Authority for approving this interview.
Disclaimer: Before you take any action based on this article please consult with an expert or regulatory official. Regulations and interpretations at the federal and state level are subject to change at any time.
