I hope you are having a great summer! We’ve been busy! Jeff enjoyed a tenday vacation in Switzerland and I spent a relaxing week in the Outer Banks. Between vacation, work responsibilities, and everyday life, we didn’t have a chance to meet up for happy hour to take our Publisher’s Note photo! So, we’re using this one from a couple of years ago at the Governor’s Mansion, where we celebrated Virginia Craft Beer Month and the winners of the Virginia Beer Cup Awards.
Speaking of awards, Jeff gives us a preview of what the Virginia Craft Brewers Guild has planned for this year’s Virginia Craft Beer Summit & Gala scheduled to take place August 10 in Doswell, and will include guest speakers and industry-related discussions. And, of course, there’s the much-anticipated Virginia Beer Cup! Who will win this year’s Best In Show Award? Celebrating and recognizing all of the amazing beer produced by so many independent craft breweries is a fitting way to kick off Virginia Craft Beer Month!
August was officially proclaimed Virginia Craft Beer Month by Governor Bob McDonnell in 2012, following the passing of two landmark pieces of legislation designed to expand the Commonwealth’s craft beer industry. First, Senate Bill 604 granted breweries the right to sell beer directly to consumers in their tasting rooms for both on-premise consumption and off-premise consumption. Second, House Bill 359 allowed breweries to lease space to smaller start-up breweries. Together, these laws were projected to drive tourism, boost local and state revenue, support regional agriculture, and revitalize both urban and rural communities.
In celebration of Virginia Craft Beer Month, we’re encouraging readers and craft beer enthusiasts to find ways to seek out and enjoy Virginia-crafted beer throughout the month of August and beyond. We’ve provided a Top Ten list of festivals happening late summer into early fall throughout the Commonwealth. From the ocean to the mountains and everywhere in between, there are many fun events that allow you to sip and savor your way across the state.
Plus, David Hunter continues his Restaurant Series with a visit to Caboose Market & Cafe in Ashland. Virginia craft beer is the star of their carefully curated taps, ensuring there’s something for everyone to enjoy. Additional highlights of this issue include a profile on Wasserhund’s third location in Norfolk and Greg Fleehart’s new adventure with coffee roasting. And, as always, our Brewery Guide serves as your roadmap for crafting your next thirst-quenching adventure.
The craft beer landscape may have changed dramatically since 2012, but let’s all embrace the slogan of the time – “Virginia is for Craft Beer Lovers” – and get out and enjoy all that the Commonwealth and its independent craft breweries have to offer!
Cheers!
Jennifer
Parkway Runs through Downtown
By Jeff Maisey
1960s pop star Petula Clark had a hit with her song “Downtown,” which featured the chorus “So go downtown/Things will be great when you’re downtown/No finer place for sure, downtown/ Everything’s waiting for you.”
Awaiting independent craft beer lovers in Downtown Roanoke is the new satellite location of Parkway Brewing Company.
In 2012, Parkway opened its headquarters in nearby Salem. The award-winning brewery became known for its Get Bent Mountain IPA.
Parkway will join the vibrant dining and beverage scene on Campbell Avenue with nearby neighbors Olde Salem Brewing Co. and Three Notch’d Brewery & Craft Kitchen with Big Lick and Golden Cactus just down the road.
Parkway Roanoke is expected to open by August 1. It has been posting announcements on social media and introducing new staff like Renee Taylor (pictured), their Downtown Roanoke Taproom Manager.
Legend Brown Lives On
Legend Brown Ale, once considered the most beloved and recognizable independently crafted beer made in Virginia, is getting a new lease on life.
With a recently unveiled strategic partnership between Legend Brewing Company and Richmond giant Hardywood Park Craft Brewery, Hardywood will take full control over the iconic brand’s production, distribution, and wholesale sales. The liquid will be brewed at Hardywood’s state-of-the-art facility at West Creek. Ironically, when Hardywood was founded in 2011, Legend generously stepped up to help brew Hardywood’s very first commercial production batch of Hardywood Singel. Now, Hardywood returns the favor by producing Legend Brown Ale.
Contract brewing is a win-win for many large-scale beer production facilities such as New Realm Brewing Co. in Virginia Beach and smaller operations needing a boost for one or two flagship success stories.
Legend Brewing Company will continue to operate its pub with that famous skyline view, though encroaching condos are creeping into the picture.
Murphy & Rude Merges South
Murphy & Rude, Virginia’s only maltster, announced it is merging operations with Carolina Malt House on the outskirts of the small, rural town of Cleveland, NC.
“I could not be happier with the partnership we were able to architect with the superb team at Carolina Malt House,” said Jeff Bloem in a prepared statement. Bloem is the founder and head maltster of Murphy & Rude Malting Co. “While our brand quality, industry reputation, and tailored customer experience has always been a strong point for us; our ability to scale, expand our customer reach, and offer more competitive pricing has proven difficult over the last two years in the face of continuous economic and business headwinds. Given the correction market currently facing craft beer and spirits, we believe we are in a much better position working collaboratively than continuing to go-it-alone. My hope is that the efficiencies gained from a dually beneficial partnership like this will lift all boats and prove to be the innovative business structure that lights the path forward.”
2026 Virginia Craft Beer Summit & Gala
On August 10, the 2026 Virginia Craft Beer Summit & Gala is promised to be one of the most encompassing yet produced by the Virginia Craft Brewers Guild.
Numerous guest speakers and topical industry discussions will begin at 11 a.m. and continue through the afternoon.
Announcements and remarks by Guild leadership staffers Brett Vassey and Stacie Gordon as well as from Virginia State Delegate Holly Seibold and VBBG Chairman Bill Spence will be followed by several award categories: Virginia Craft Beer Legend Award, Virginia Craft Brewers Champion Award, Revolutionary Brews People’s Choice Challenge Award, 2026 Brewery of the Year award, 2026 Best in Show award, and some 20 Virginia Craft Beer Cup individual beer style categories.
A Pro-Am category makes its debut as well.
A major component of each year’s Virginia Craft Beer Cup is the quality judging pool that gives credibility to the award outcomes
Jenna Wines of the Virginia Craft Brewers Guild provided the following:
“The 2026 Virginia Craft Beer Cup assembled one of the most credentialed judging panels that a regional competition can field. The high quality and strong reputation of the competition drew National-ranked judges who traveled from as far away as North Carolina and Illinois to participate.
“Of the competition’s 36 judges, 34 (94.4%) held official BJCP rank - up from 91.4% the year prior—giving the competition a depth of judging expertise more commonly associated with national-caliber competitions.
“Among the BJCP-ranked judges, 33 (91.7%) held Certified rank or higher, while eight held National rank or higher. Two had earned Grand Master II rank or higher - a distinction held by only 58 judges nationwide - meaning the competition attracted 3.4% of the country’s highest-ranked BJCP judges. Those two Grand Masters, together
with three National-ranked judges, evaluated the competition’s Best of Show beers.
“The panel’s depth extended beyond BJCP rank alone. Four judges were also Certified Cicerones, and four were professional brewers. Of the two unranked judges, one was awaiting official BJCP rank, had sensory training, had judged dozens of competitions, and had earned more GABF Pro-Am medals than anyone in the country. The other unranked judge was a Certified Cicerone, sensory-trained evaluator, and professional brewer.
“Beyond recognizing brewing excellence, the Virginia Craft Beer Cup also contributes to the development of the next generation of BJCP judges. Advancement through the BJCP ranking system requires both examination performance and documented judging experience, making sanctioned competitions like the Virginia Craft Beer Cup an important part of developing and advancing qualified beer judges.”
Going Rogue
Earlier this year, Hamptonlocated Capstan Bar Brewing Company was purchased by local restauranteur Mike Harris.
Harris, who owns nearby 1631 Burgers Bourbon & Brew, decided to do a complete rebrand and launched Rogue Wave Brewing Company in July.
According to Rogue Wave’s Daniel Carr, the brewery is already expanding its core flagship draft output to local restaurants. More to come…
Caiseal Brewing Company won last year’s first-ever Brewery of the Year category.
MUG SHOTS
Collaboration between Chilly Hollow Brewing Company & Dynasty Brewing Company, Mount Vernon, & Lost Lagers to celebrate VA250, Berryville
3rd Anniversary Party - Afterglow Brewing, norfolk
From the Brew Kettle to the Coffee Roaster: Greg Fleehart’s Next Chapter
By David Hunter
There’s a certain kind of brewer who never really stops brewing — even when they walk away from the kettle. Greg Fleehart is that kind of brewer.
With roots stretching back to Seattle’s legendary coffee culture and a brewing career that spans Commonwealth Brewing Company in Virginia Beach, Precarious Beer Project in Williamsburg, and most recently Old Rappahannock Brewing Company in Warsaw, Greg has spent the better part of two decades chasing flavor. Now, he’s chasing it in a different vessel entirely — the coffee roaster.
Greg got his start in brewing in 2009 in the Seattle area before making his way to Virginia to help launch Commonwealth Brewing Company with co-founder Jeramy Biggie. From there he landed at Precarious Beer Project, a smaller pub-style operation that he describes as a creative playground. “The cool thing about Precarious was just the amount of ingredients I got to use,” he told me. “We had this amazing kitchen and these great suppliers, so I was able to throw all these crazy fun ingredients in and make really culinary inspired beers.” It was there that Greg sharpened what he calls his “creative prototyping skill set” — a phrase that tells you everything about how his mind works.
After a stint selling malt and two years with Old Rappahannock Brewing Company, Greg recently made another move — this time to Wine & Beer Supply in Ashland, where he’ll serve as Director of Brewery Sales. His goal: to be a connector, a collaborator, someone who helps bring the Virginia craft beer community back together through cooperation and win-win partnerships. But that’s only part of the story.
The other part is Fleehart Roasters. Greg launched his microroasting operation — find him at
Greg Fleehart recently collaborated on a Starr Hill Brewery blonde ale in RVA.
fleehartroasters.com — out of a desire to keep developing flavors without the physical demands of production brewing. A lifelong coffee lover who grew up walking distance from multiple roasteries in Seattle, he found himself drawn to the science of coffee fermentation. “There are people doing really interesting co-fermentations with fruit, carbonic macerations like they do with Beaujolais — there’s this incredible fermentation lane inside of coffee,” he explained. For a brewer, that’s catnip.
Think of Greg less as a coffee roaster and more as a flavor scientist who happens to use coffee beans as his medium. He describes his approach using the language of brewing and music simultaneously — and as a musician myself, that analogy rang completely true. “It’s like tracking a song — you’ve got bass, drums, everything that needs to fit into the
mix. You’re playing with the faders when you blend.” Each roast is intentional, purposeful, built for a specific flavor experience. He’s not chasing volume or mass appeal. “If you’re running to Starbucks every morning for a venti iced mocha, this probably isn’t the coffee for you,” he said with a laugh. “But if you want to enjoy the flavor more than just the result of the beverage — kind of like choosing a Saison DuPont over a Shandy — then this is exactly for you.”
The bridge between his two worlds came naturally. Greg recently collaborated with brewer Jeff Metz of Starr Hill Beer Hall & Rooftop in Richmond on a blonde ale using a lightly roasted Java bean — a project born from a conversation at an NBAA meeting in West Virginia where Greg was pouring samples of his coffee. The result was a beer that honored both crafts. He hopes to do more of it,
and with his new role at Wine & Beer Supply giving him access to breweries across the mid-Atlantic and into the Northeast, the opportunity is there.
As for where to find Fleehart Roasters coffee, Greg keeps it personal and local — available through fleehartroasters.com and showing up at spots like Rise & Set Provisions in Warsaw, Act XII Wine and Provisions in Tappahannock, and The Tiny Tailgate in Colonial Beach.
Greg Fleehart isn’t trying to build the next big coffee brand. He’s doing what he’s always done — building relationships, chasing flavor, and finding the next interesting thing to put in someone’s glass. Or mug.
David Hunter leads Fans of Virginia Craft Breweries, the Commonwealth’s largest Facebook Group dedicated to supporting the Virginia Craft Brewing Community.
Fleehart brand coffee packaged and ready.
Unleash the Hops! Wasserhund Brewing Comes to Norfolk
By Diane Catanzaro and Chris Jones
Yes, Norfolk’s Historic Railroad District has officially gone to the dogs! Earlier this year Wasserhund Brewing Company opened its third location, Wasserhund NFK, at the corner of Granby and E 25th Street. We sat down at the new location for a chat with co-owner and top dog Aaron Holley, who together with his wife Christine opened the original Wasserhund in Virginia Beach ten years ago.
We asked Aaron what he wanted people to know about Wasserhund Brewing. One thing he wants to share is that Wasserhund is a “mom-andpop shop” even though they now have three locations. They are a family business inspired by a love of beer, adventures in homebrewing, engineering backgrounds, and a trip to Germany. They are also very into dogs. But, rest assured, they welcome everyone here, even feline fanatics, ferret fanciers, and bird besties.
We were most familiar with the original Virginia Beach location, just across from the Whole Foods on Laskin Road, that houses their original fifteen-barrel brewhouse and restaurant. It’s a great spot to gather for a beer and a nosh before a show at Elevation 27 or after a day of shopping at Hilltop. We have also visited the Chesapeake location, in the trendy Summit Pointe development where they share a block with upscale neighbors Luce Secondo and Cork & Bull Chophouse. So why open a third location while some breweries are scaling
Wasserhund Brewing Co’s Christine and Aaron Holley.
Photo by Diane Catanzaro.
Saturday & Sunday, October 17 & 18, 2026
TOWN POINT PARK | DOWNTOWN NORFOLK WATERFRONT | VIRGINIA
TOWN POINT PARK
DOWNTOWN NORFOLK WATERFRONT
11 AM – 6 PM DAILY
Wine Sampling ends at 4:30 PM
Wine Sales end at 5:00 PM
To purchase tickets or for more information, visit FESTEVENTS.ORG or call 757-441-2345 @FESTEVENTS
Recognized by Wine Enthusiast Magazine as one of the top ten wine travel destinations, the Fall Town Point Virginia Wine Festival invites wine enthusiasts to immerse themselves in the elegance of Virginia’s wine country. This distinguished festival features more than 25 premier wineries paired with gourmet food and merchant offerings, live music, and educational opportunities. Connect with celebrated winemakers, explore the artistry behind their craft, and savor the nuanced flavors that define Virginia’s vibrant wine scene during one of Hampton Roads’ most anticipated autumn events
back or shutting down entirely in an industry that has increasingly become dog-eat-dog?
Basically, they wanted a location convenient to those who live or work in Norfolk, and the circa 1920 building on Granby Street, recently vacated by District Apizza, was too good an opportunity to pass up. We agree that the location is excellent. The historic building boasts a brick exterior and interior, a cool old-timey tile floor, and large storefront windows to let in the light. There is ample bar and table seating. Murals of mutts adorn the walls and there are large-screen televisions for watching the game or perhaps the AKC finals. It has a small parking lot and backs up to a revitalized commercial district that features warehouses converted into loft apartments, restaurants, and local businesses. Wasserhund NFK will have beers fermenting and barrel-aging on site, overseen by their long-time brewer Christina Whipple.
One difference between Wasserhund and most breweries in the region is that Wasserhund is actually a brewery-restaurant that serves beer they brew, called a brewpub. They have a restaurant menu with items like their popular wood-fired customizable pizzas with tons of topping choices (pepperoni, bacon, anchovies, pineapple, feta, and more), burgers, bratwurst (traditional and vegan), salads, Brussels sprouts, mini Stromboli, chicken sandwiches and wings. They also have a “puppy menu’ for small human critters. And, (drum roll please) table service! So, this is a brewpub, which is a different breed than the typical brewery tasting room where food is not served, although you might find a food truck. In addition to their beer, they serve wine, a few house-made cocktails, canned non-alcoholic beers, and THC drinks. Wasserhund does not stray from what has made them successful at the first two locations.
They have ‘loyal brews’ like the Doggy Paddle West Coast IPA, German Shepheweizen Wheat Beer, Unleashed
Boysenberry Gose, and Pick of the Litter American Lager. Rotating seasonal releases include Haagen Dog Ice Cream Stout, Big Dog Energy Juicy Double IPA, and Haywire Husky Coffee Lager (a favorite of ours). Earlier this year, Ear Perker Flanders Red Ale was a welcome surprise. We are fans of this Belgian style, exemplified by the original Duchesse of Bourgogne and Rodenbach beers. This is a barrel-aged mixed fermentation beer, typically a blend of young and longer-aged barrels, that is challenging to brew well. Wasserhund has done a very credible version with Ear Perker. Dark ruby red, with complex sour notes of red currants, cherry, and balsamic, and little to no detectable hops or malt flavor, this unique style is seldom attempted by American craft breweries, and rarely brewed well. This dog will hunt!
Seth Caddell, who co-owns and operates Coastal Fermentory in Newport News, recently acquired Rip Rap Brewing in Norfolk. For Caddell, building and nurturing a sense of camaraderie within the independent craft beer community is important.
“With Wasserhund half a block from Rip Rap, we absolutely love having them as neighbors and are looking forward to lots of collaborative opportunities in the coming years,” Caddell said.
Wasserhund Brewing, too, is all about community and supports local charities. One night per week at each location they donate 25% of revenue to a local nonprofit that provides direct support to those in our region. They assist the charity partner with a theme party, raffle, and social media to help with this effort. Sounds like a great fundraising and team-building opportunity for local 501c(3) charities. Wasserhund puts its money where its muzzle is and has donated well over a quarter-million dollars to local charities since opening their doors ten years ago!
Because they are a restaurant, city codes in all three locations do not allow dogs (or cats, peacocks, ponies, trash pandas, or javelinas) inside, with the exception of bona fide service dogs. Dogs are welcome on the patios in Virginia Beach and Chesapeake (assuming they are good boys and girls).
As for new releases, Wasserhund will unveil its Oktoberfest Lager on Saturday, August 1 at all locations featuring accordion music by Miles Hoyle (11 am to 2 pm in Norfolk, 6 to 9 pm in Virginia Beach) as well as bratwurst and pretzel specials. Prost!
Wasserhund NFK is located at 2411 Granby Street. Phone is 757-904-3217. Open Sunday-Thursday until 10 pm; Friday and Saturday until 11 pm. https://wasserhundbrewing.com.
August is Virginia Craft Beer Month!
It’s the perfect time to celebrate all of the awardwinning beer throughout the Commonwealth. But, why limit yourself to just one month? We’ve put together a Top Ten list (in chronological order) of must-attend beer festivals to keep the party going well into early Fall.
11th Annual
Neptune’s Coastal Craft Beer Festival
SATURDAY, AUGUST 15, 3-8PM COASTAL VIRGINIA
Sip and savor the dog days of summer at the 11th Annual Neptune’s Coastal Craft Beer Festival at Neptune’s Park at the Virginia Beach oceanfront. Enjoy 60+ beers, ciders, and seltzers from 30 breweries, live music by Bennett Walker Wales Band, food trucks, zero proof options, and more! Wear your best cowboy/girl boots and hats and step into the Seaside Saloon for a chance to win prizes. For more information, visit www.neptunefestival.com.
Roar & Pour
SATURDAY, AUGUST 22, 4-8PM COASTAL VIRGINIA
Are you ready for some football… umm… we mean craft beer! Monarch Nation, start dreaming of the start of football season and get ready to Roar & Pour at this second annual craft beer festival literally held on the field at S.B. Ballard Stadium at Old Dominion University on Saturday, August 22. Enjoy an evening sampling craft beer from Coastal Virginia breweries, live music, family-friendly activities, and all things ODU. Proceeds benefit the Old Dominion Athletic Foundation and the Coastal Virginia Brewery Alliance. Learn more at www.odusports.com.
Be Happy Beer Festival
SATURDAY & SUNDAY, AUGUST 22 & 23
SHENANDOAH VALLEY
BrewHaHa Brewing Company is hosting its 3rd Annual Be Happy Beer Festival August 22 & 23 in Elkton. The Festival is a tribute to owner Pete Ballou’s dad, Retired Major US Marine Corps, Frank William Ballou who said, “Love what you do, love what you are doing.” With that in mind, they invite you for a weekend filled with laughs, live music, local vendors, games, food, and craft beer from throughout the state. Learn more at www.brewhahabrewery.com.
Hampton Roads HoneyFest
SATURDAY, AUGUST 29, 3-9PM COASTAL VIRGINIA
The Buzzzz is back! Celebrate all things honey at the 3rd Annual Hampton Roads HoneyFest on August 29 at St. George Brewing Company in Hampton. St. George along with Brew & Bottle bring together the region’s best breweries, meaderies, beekeepers, artisans, educators, and honey lovers for a fun-filled afternoon sampling an incredible selection of honey-inspired beers and meads. The Colonial Beekeepers Association will be on-site with local honey tastings and the popular 360° Observation Beehive. Plus, shop more than twentyfive local artisan craft vendors, enjoy live music and family-friendly games and activities, and learn all about beekeeping, honey production, and mead-making at workshops throughout the day. For more details, www.stgbeer.com.
Virginia Chili Blues & Brews
FRIDAY & SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 11 & 12
SHENANDOAH VALLEY
Chili lovers, craft beer fans, and blues enthusiasts come together for a spectacular weekend in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains at the Virginia Chili Blues & Brews Festival September 11 & 12. The weekend kicks off on Friday, September 11 with blues performances at select venues around town. Then, on Saturday, over 3,000 attendees converge at Lumos Plaza in Downtown Waynesboro for hot chili, cool brews, and sizzling blues — all in support of arts education and community programming through the Wayne Theatre. Attendees will enjoy a wide selection of craft beers from local and regional breweries, food trucks, artisan vendors, and fun for all ages. All proceeds benefit the Wayne Theatre and its Studio Wayne Arts Education programs. For more information, go to www.virginiachili.com.
14th Annual
757 Battle of the Beers
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 1-6:30PM
COASTAL VIRGINIA
The 14th Annual 757 Battle of the Beers returns Saturday, September 12, to the Military Aviation Museum in Virginia Beach. This event is Hampton Roads’ longest-running and largest “localsonly” beer festival, with all proceeds benefitting local charities. Over 40 local breweries will battle it out for bragging rights – in three categories – Brewer’s Choice, People’s Choice, & Battle of the Brewers – all to raise money for their favorite charity! Attendees will enjoy live music from Wonderland, Optimistic Cynics (OCX), and Nate Sacks plus, food, games, vendors, and more! For more information, visit www.757battleofthebeers.com.
is pr oud to sponsor the 14 Annual 757 Battle of the Beer s — th because pr otecting our r e gion means investing in it. At AERMOR, we don’t just deliver solutions we provide mission success. Our expertise, industry experience, and customer-first approach set us apart as a trusted partner in cybersecurity, defense, and technology solutions
From cyber and systems engineering to program support, our teams help mission partners deliver every day. If you’r e driven by pur pose (and par tial to a good pint),
Rockbridge Beer and Wine Festival
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 12-6PM
SHENANDOAH VALLEY
There’s something for everyone at the Rockbridge Beer & Wine Festival, held at the Lime Kiln Theater in Lexington on September 12. Attendees can choose from craft beer, regional wine, cider, and ready to drink cocktails. Music abounds all day with Hatfield Music and Hollywood & Vine on the Main Stage and Gloria and Kenton, Rosebud Experience, and Dan Fox on the Wine Stage. Get your tickets today at www.rockbridgebeerandwine.com.
Alexandria Oktoberfest
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 19
NORTHERN VIRGINIA
Raise a stein, Alexandria – Oktoberfest arrives in Alexandria Saturday, September 19 at their annual celebration in the heart of Old Town at Carlyle Square Park. Attendees will enjoy live German bands and dance performances, authentic Bavarian food, contest, family fun, and of course a Beer Garden with German lagers, craft brews, and fall favorites. Learn more at www.chiceventsdc.com. Prost!
Lynchburg Beer, Wine, & Cider Festival
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 12-7PM
CENTRAL VIRGINIA
Gather your friends for the 17th Annual Lynchburg Beer, Wine & Cider Festival held at the Lynchburg City Stadium on Saturday, September 19. Enjoy over 50 different options of craft beer, Virginia wine, ciders, and distilled spirits. Enjoy live music from Wild Honey, Hometown Line Dancing, and The Dundies and peruse an array of local artisans and food vendors. Learn more at www.omineproductions.com.
Orangetoberfest
SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 26
CENTRAL VIRGINIA
The 5th Annual Orangtoberfest takes over downtown Orange, VA on Saturday, September 26. This festival celebrates all of the award-winning craft beers from central Virginia breweries and cideries. David Hunter will get the music started followed by Nashville’s Dark Water’s Project. There will be food trucks and more – all to benefit local charities! Make Orange your destination on September 26 and mingle with others who enjoy the art of craft beer. Learn more at www.ironpipealewerks.com.
Caboose Market & Cafe
By David Hunter
If you’re reading this, chances are you’re a fan of craft beer — and there’s an even better chance you’re a fan of Virginia craft beer specifically. And if that’s the case, you know the feeling of sitting down at a restaurant and discovering they not only have your Virginia favorites available, but a few you haven’t tried yet. That’s a good day.
That feeling is exactly what keeps me coming back to places like Caboose Market & Cafe in historic Ashland, Virginia. This is the third installment in my series for VA Craft Beer Magazine celebrating restaurants across the Commonwealth that are embracing Virginia’s craft beer culture — and Caboose earns its place on that list with ease.
Caboose has been a fixture in Ashland since 1997, when founder Ian Kirkland opened it as a wine and beer shop with a passion for Belgian ales and fine wine. For nearly two decades, it thrived as just that — until a couple of locals convinced Ian to knock a hole in the wall and add a restaurant. What started as a casual spot to grab a bagel and a beer quickly evolved into something the town itself shaped. “It wasn’t any verbal ‘this needs to be this way,’” recalls owner Nick Gay. “It was just kind of the way that they came in — they didn’t want to go up to the counter and order anything. They wanted to sit down and have an experience. So, we said, okay, that’s how we’re going to do it.”
Nick came to Caboose the way a lot of great things happen — organically. His brother worked there first, singing its praises. Nick was down the street at the Iron Horse Restaurant. When Ian was ready to move on and spend
more time with his family, Nick stepped up. He didn’t want to see the place change hands to someone who might lose what made it special. “I wanted to see it continue being community-driven,” he says. “I don’t have any desires to completely change the format.” He’s kept the soul of the place intact while quietly putting his own stamp on it.
The food at Caboose is farm-totable in the truest sense — not as a marketing buzzword, but as a genuine commitment to the farms and producers surrounding Ashland. Beef comes from Charity Hill Farms in Ruther Glen. Chicken from Rubicon
Farm & Ranch. Pork from Pink House Farm. Fruits from Agriberry Farm and CSA out of Mechanicsville. Vegetables from Deer Run Farm. The menu changes seasonally, but a few things never leave. The Grilled Cornbread appetizer — made with Deep Roots Milling Cornmeal and AR’s Mild Hot Southern Honey — is a perennial favorite, as is the Pimento Cheese, served with toasted housemade crostini. The Engineer’s Burger, built on Charity Hill Farms ground beef with house pimento cheese, sriracha mayo, Farmstead Ferments kimchi kraut, and a La Bella Vita Bakery brioche bun, is a fan favorite
Caboose owner, Nick Gay
that earns every bit of its reputation. The Grown Up Grilled Cheese — Terra di Siena prosciutto, mozzarella, Deer Run Farms Hanover tomatoes, and house pesto panini-pressed on La Bella Vita Bakery long country white bread — runs a close second. And this summer, the Life’s A Peach salad, featuring Agriberry Farm and CSA peaches tossed in a jalapeño-peach vinaigrette with mozzarella pearls and candied pecans, has been turning heads.
Now, the beer.
Caboose runs eight taps with a simple but thoughtful philosophy — variety over brand loyalty. Nick keeps a lager, an IPA, and a cider as anchors, then uses the remaining taps to have fun, stay seasonal, and explore. Virginia producers anchor the list, with Ardent Craft Ales, Commonwealth Brewing Company, Potter’s Craft Cider, and
Benchtop Brewing Company recently on tap. “Virginia’s got great beer,” Nick says plainly. “They’re going to get my loyalty before I give it to anybody else.” He curates by style rather than name, making sure the dark beer drinker, the hop head, and the lager lover all have a home at the bar. And if nothing on tap suits your mood, grab something cold from the retail side and enjoy it right there with a corkage fee — a perk that keeps everyone happy.
What’s particularly refreshing is Nick’s relationship with Origin Beer Lab, the brewery located right next door. Rather than viewing them as competition, the two businesses actively send customers to each other. Caboose food is welcome at Origin’s patio. Origin regulars who want to find a beer they loved on tap get sent to Caboose to track it down. It’s the kind
of symbiotic community relationship this series was built to highlight.
Looking ahead, Nick has his eyes on expanding the kitchen — a modest but meaningful goal for a restaurant punching well above its weight in one of the smallest kitchens in Ashland. Whatever comes next, Caboose Market & Cafe isn’t going anywhere. Caboose Market & Cafe is located in historic downtown Ashland, Virginia. Follow them on social media for seasonal menu updates and tap list changes.
David Hunter leads Fans of Virginia Craft Breweries, the Commonwealth’s largest Facebook community dedicated to Virginia craft beer, at facebook.com/ groups/FansofVACB.
brewer's corner
Introducing Brewer's Corner, a new column to engage with the homebrewing community and craft beer enthusiasts alike. Here, local Virginia craft brewers share their recipes and expertise on what it takes to make a delicious-tasting beer.
Marzen
By Tuan Bui, 1700 Brewing and Brew & Bottle Homebrewing Supplies
If you haven’t already brewed your Oktoberfest, time to get in gear! Luckily, we have a couple ways to get a quick Marzen in your fermenter in time to enjoy it when Oktoberfest rolls around late September. Marzen, which means March was traditionally brewed in March and stored away in cooler caves until September but with our new strains of yeast and modified malts, we’re able to produce a delicious Marzen much quicker.
Batch Size = 5 gallons
OG: 1.060 / FG: 1.016 / ABV: 5.6%
7lb 12oz German Pilsen Malt
3lb Munich Malt
6.0 oz Caramel 20L
6.0 oz Caramel 40L
6.0 oz Caramel 120L
This Marzen has a rich amber color that has flavors of a toasty and bready malt with moderate bitterness with a clean and dry finish. This one will need to be boiled for 90 minutes to ensure DMS does not set in with the large amount of Pilsen malt.
Hops and additions:
Bittering Hop: 2oz Tettnang @90min
Flavor Hop: 1oz Hersbrucker @15min
Consider dropping in some Irish Moss or a Whirlfloc tablet into the last 10 mins of the boil to help clear the beer up.
Yeast: Our go to yeast for this brew is any Oktoberfest yeast strain, but there are others on the market that will work as well and, in a pinch, there are a couple hybrid strains that will do that job! For this beer, we’ll use Fermentis 34/70 which is a German Pilsner yeast. Typically, you want to ferment this strain in the 55º range, but this strain has proven to perform well under cooler
ale temps. So, if you’re able to keep this one no warmer than 70º and preferably at around 65º, you’ll have nice activity with a clean finish.
The lagering process can be a tricky one, but no need to shy away from it. After you’ve let your fermentation go for about 2 weeks, go ahead and keg it, add some finings and let it sit in your fridge for as long as you can take it! If you’re bottling, go ahead and bottle like normal and when it’s time to refrigerate, let it sit in your fridge for as long as you can to let it clear up and pour gently to not disturb the tub at the bottom of the bottle.
Any questions about any of this process, don’t hesitate to give me a call at 757881-9100.
Stable Craft Brewing & Cidery, Waynesboro 540.490.2609 • stablecraftbrewing.com life is hard cider, Mt Jackson Shenandoah County 540.477.3570 • kindredpointe.com
