M
is for Meunier
WINE THE BEAUTY OF SELF-DESTRUCTION LABEL LEADERS CHAMPAGNE ARRIVALS CHALLENGING THE RULES VINE CHANGING SEASONS: A YEAR IN CHAMPAGNE PROFILING AMBONNAY CLIMATE CHANGE PEOPLE A HISTORY OF THE VIN DE CHAMPAGNE AWARDS TRADE RELATIONS: SALLY MCGILL & MATTHEW WALLACE PLACE HOW TO EXPERIENCE CHAMPAGNE LIKE A LOCAL WHERE TO DRINK CHAMPAGNE: MONTRACHET & LE WINE BAR
I S S U E N O. 2
Australia’s Champagne Magazine
Inside this
Issue Cover photo: Wade Whitington
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WIN E 07.
The Beauty of Self-Destruction The Life of Yeasts
10.
M is for Meunier
13.
Bite the Cherry
24.
Label Leaders The Etiquette of Champagne Labels
26.
Arrivals
31.
Challenging the Rules Champagne and Food
39.
The Tasting Room
W IN E 4 2.
4 4.
Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine Perfectly Imperfect
PEOPLE 57.
Trade Relations
64.
Vin de Champagne Awards A Short History
1869: The Birth of an Icon Moët Impérial
PL ACE V INE 46.
Profiling Ambonnay
49.
Changing Seasons A Year in Champagne
53.
Climate Change
69.
Sniff, Sip, Savour
75.
How to Experience Champagne Like a Local
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M
WINE
is for Meunier Meunier has long been the underappreciated varietal of the Champagne appellation; misunderstood as the poor ageing, fun and fruity ‘lesser’ component of classically blended champagnes. But a new wave of dedicated and open-minded producers is beginning to change the way the region – and world – sees meunier. Champagne expert and meunier enthusiast, Yoko Ota-Sawyer, delves deeper into the mystery of meunier, dispels the myths and uncovers some little known truths. Yoko Ota-Sawyer P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Victor Pugatschew WORDS BY
“Meunier gives fruitiness to the blend in champagne, and it does not age well,” was what I learned in wine classes and books. But I started to question this as I experienced many quality champagnes made exclusively from meunier. I wanted to learn more, but information available was limited. During my regular trips to Champagne, I asked producers, known for growing and making champagne from this varietal, about its peculiarities, strengths and weaknesses. What started out as a curiosity has fast become a passion of mine, culminating in a research project that I have affectionately titled ‘M for Meunier’, to honour and bring greater recognition to it. This article is a small homage to what I have discovered. Formerly known as pinot meunier, since it was long considered to be a relative of pinot noir, meunier (as it’s now commonly referred to) has come into its own in recent years. New DNA testing has
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been unsuccessful at establishing a connection between the two, therefore meunier has become independent of its ‘pinot’ precursor. The name ‘meunier’ derives from the French word ‘miller’ - as in flourmill - because the leaves are covered in tiny white hairs, as though they’ve been dusted with white flour.
meunier remarkably tough. It is often located on cool hillsides, constituting some 70 percent of total plantings along the river in the Vallée de la Marne. Another place where you can find a good portion of quality meunier is around the north-western area of the Montagne de Reims, in a place referred to as La Petite Montagne de Reims.
Unlike the other traditional regional varieties, chardonnay and pinot noir, which are planted all over the world,
Producers tell me their greatest challenges with this varietal includes inconsistent yields, the risk of botrytis, and increased work in vineyards, as vine shoots grow heavy. But if raised with care, meunier is capable of becoming an instrumental part in a nonvintage blend, a vintage blanc de noirs, a rosé by blending or maceration, or a still wine of Coteaux Champenois - in the color of red or white - and even a fortified sweet wine known as ratafia.
“New DNA testing has been unsuccessful at establishing a connection between meunier and pinot noir.” the majority of meunier plantings can be found in Champagne. Having greater tolerance of frost, and a tendency to bud later, makes
One of the unique things about meunier is its ability to make
Meunier grapes in the Vallée de la Marne
champagnes of different styles; from light and refreshing aperitifs, to full and rich styles with ‘muscles’ that can handle bold and flavourful meat dishes. Aromatics found in a glass are equally fascinating from fresh citrus fruits of orange, pink grapefruit, and lemon, as well as stone fruits like peach, nectarine, apricot, and Mirabelle plum. When blessed with sunshine and warm weather, meunier can also show ripe and exotic notes of William pear, mango, pineapple, and gooseberry. Sometimes I find floral scents of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and jasmine together with warmer notes of almonds, aniseed and ginger. Earthy aromas, such as mushroom and truffles, are often found in more mature bottlings.
Winegrower, Emmanuel Brochet, organically farms 2.5 hectares of vines at Villers-aux-Noeuds, south of Reims.
But where do all of these aromatic components come from? Besides its origin in terms of soil and microclimate, as well as a vintage and time of harvest, producers frequently emphasise the importance of lower yields from older and selection massale vines, which they say contributes to greater consistency and higher quality fruit. Last, but not least, the influence of winemaking is ever important in the ultimate expression of wine. Some producers prefer to block malolactic fermentation to retain freshness while others enable its course so that wines become softer and rounder. Similarly, types of vessels used for vinification have a big impact on style, ranging from stainless
“Having greater tolerance of frost, and a tendency to bud later, makes meunier remarkably tough.”
steel, enamel tanks, oak barrels of different age/size/toast/origin, as well as concrete eggs and amphora. “How do you describe meunier?” I am often asked, before sealing my lips to look for answers with frustration. But I am always reminded of a particularly useful description given to me by meunier specialist, Christophe Mignon. “Meunier has a special ability to express the freshness of chardonnay and the structure and volume of pinot noir.” For me, what makes this grape interesting is its versatility and surprising quality; you never know what you will get until you take the first sip.
“Meunier has a special ability to express the freshness of chardonnay and the structure and volume of pinot noir.” VINEANDBUBBLE.COM
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Classic, Non-Vintage
Meunier
These fine examples are a good starting place to experience meunier’s classic profile. Vinification techniques and levels of dosage make for varying degrees of richness, or minerality, that is both delicious and intriguing.
Sara Underdown, VINE & BUBBLE Magazine
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WINE
Apollonis Authentic Meunier
Christophe Mignon Pur Meunier Brut Nature
José Michel & Fils Pinot Meunier
100% meunier taken from a RRP small estate in Festigny in the Marne Valley. Vinified in enamelled vats with malolactic fermentation. 50% reserve wine. 24 months on lees. Dosage 9 g/L.
100% meunier from Festigny, RRP taken from south to southwest facing old vines. Farmed biodynamically. Vinification in stainless steel and enamelled vats. No malolactic fermentation. Compilation of two vintages. Reserves spend 12 additional months on fine lees prior to bottling. No dosage.
100% meunier taken from old RRP vines in a single vineyard in Moussy, south of Epernay. Vinification in stainless steel. Full malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 10 g/L.
$75
Gold in the glass, the nose presents a classic meunier profile with its ample reserves revealing peaty/ smokey and dark rye aromas. On the palate, it appears quite rich and ‘fat’ with fruit mince flavours, broad execution, and discernible silky texture. A flavourful - if not slightly cloying - medium-length finish.
$95
Straight away, things appear clean and classy in this no dosage offering from biodynamic producer, Christophe Mignon. To the eye, it is gold with hints of green. To the nose, there are early signs of oxidative development, elegant florals, peach, and dried fruit. The palate is ripe and flavoursome, notably blackcurrant, but not at the expense of structure. This is a clean and focused wine thanks to its lime-citrus edge and conspicuous salinity. Medium length finish.
$75
Highly perfumed to the nose, this is a solid example of 100% meunier done well with loads of spice, florals, citrus, ginger, as well as exotic fruits. On the palate, this is a delectable and vinous wine with its juicy-quincy notes, spice and comforting roundness from ample reserves. A light silky texture is offset by medium levels of crisp acidity, making for a well-structured and nicely balanced example of non-vintage meunier. Good length.
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WINE
Arrivals
This year, the 2008 vintage will continue to thrill and beguile us all as some of the most anticipated releases of the decade reach Australia.LA GRANDE ANNÉE Prestige and vintage offerings, on tight allocations, will be snapped up in DEPTH AND REFINEM no time by savvy collectors; so be quick.
PRODUCTION Blend of the 2008 vintage: 71% Pinot Aÿ and Verzenay for the Pinot Noir, L Chardonnay. Exclusive use of the cuvée. Fermented entirely in aged oak barrels. At Bollinger, only very high quality ha remarkable maturity of the grapes com produced a wine of infinite depth and all Maturation: Sealed with a natural cork time required by the Appellation. Dosage: Moderate, 8 grams per litre.
Vinified exclus Riddled and dis
SENSATIONS To the eye: The delicate colour and gold and reflective of Bollinger’s wine-makin To the nose: A wonderful aromatic dept intertwine to reveal a highly complex n precede saffron and tonka bean, comp On the palate: Dense and harmonious and fresh structure, with a gentle salin
PAIRINGS Cured ham. Seared scallops or scallops tartare. Gri Chicken in a light creamy sauce.
OUR ADVICE La Grande Année 2008 is the perfec appreciate its unique style and aroma between 8 and 10°C. You can enjoy L age it in your cellar.
HISTORY La Grande Année is the embodimen expertise of the Bollinger Champagne vinified in small aged oak barrels. Cha this traditional craft method, which he a prolonged ageing on its lees, even t riddled and disgorged by hand.
Bollinger Serve cool and open gently. Contains sulphites. E N J O Y R E S P O N S I B LY
Pol Roger The release of two stellar vintages across three new cuvées will make 2019 a very good year Pol Roger in Australia. Whilst the 2012 Brut Vintage and 2012 Blanc de Blancs are currently making their way onto our shelves, loyalists will get their chance to own a bottle, or magnum, of the lauded 2008 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill from July. Described by Paul Graham, Director of Business Development at Pol Roger, as the ‘most investible Sir Winston Churchill ever made’, strict allocations are in place for the release which is expected to sell out almost immediately.
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Perhaps the most anticipated release of 2019 is La Grande Année 2008 from the revered house of Bollinger. It has taken more than ten years to reveal the full quality of the vintage with this intense, complex and harmonious wine promising huge ageing potential. Vinification has taken place exclusively in small oak barrels (each 20 years old) followed by ageing on lees in bottle using natural cork. La Grande Année 2008 is Bollinger’s first prestige cuvée to have been aged in the shapely 1846 Bollinger bottle and will be available from August.
Veuve Clicquot Staying with the 2008 theme, Veuve Clicquot’s chef de cave, Dominque Demarville, will travel to Australia in July for the official launch of La Grande Dame 2008. In a noticeable overhaul of its brand and style, pinot noir constitutes some 92 percent of the 2008 vintage which normally has a higher proportion of chardonnay. One other difference is the new eyecatching label. 2008 was Demarville’s first vintage with the house. It is a blend of six grand crus and receives a low dosage of just 6g/L. Stocks won’t arrive until late August or early September.
Charles Heidsieck Flagged for release last year, Charles Heidsieck’s anticipated launch of their Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage will finally hit Australian shores from July this year. Executive Director of the house, Stephen Leroux, was recently in Australia with a sneak preview of the 100 percent chardonnay beauty featuring a 2012 base (75%) with the balance coming from reserves with an average age of five years. Chardonnay was taken from Oger and Vertus in the Côte des Blancs, as well as Villers-Marmery, Trépail, Vaudemange and Montgueux. Each bottle has been aged for more than four years on lees and sees a dosage of 10g/L. The new cuvée will take a seat alongside Charles’ Brut Reserve and Rosé Reserve. Expect to pay RRP $180 per bottle, available at selected in retailers and restaurants.
Laurent-Perrier In the coming months, Laurent-Perrier will launch two new champagnes in Australia. From July 31, lovers of Laurent-Perrier’s elegant chardonnaydriven style will get their chance to own a bottle of Millésimé 2008, following 10 years on lees. September will bring something a little unusual by way of Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé, in Jeroboam (3L), in the same iconic shape. It will be the first time Cuvée Rosé has been made available in the larger-than-life format.
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PLACE
The Best of Champagne Off the
beaten track Enjoy some of these more unusual places away from the tourist circuit.
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Faux de Verzy | If you're visiting the Perchingbar, take time to discover the Verzy forest with its hauntingly beautiful dwarf beech trees from which it takes its name. The peculiar characteristics of these trees is thought to be from a genetic mutation which results in them being able to fuse branches and propagate from aerial limbs, giving them a very wide canopy. It's an easy walk through a fenced reserve, so visitors can admire the trees without damaging the delicate root system. Some impressive specimens have been given special names. Look out for the Maiden’s Fau; legend has it that Joan of Arc once napped at the foot of the tree.
The Perchingbar | High up in the Verzy forest sits a treetop bar with stunning views over the Montagne de Reims. Enjoy the small adventure of walking through the forest then a series of suspended bridges and swinging stairs to reach your destination. Sip your champagne on one of the swings, relax and take in the view. Le Phare de Verzenay | A lighthouse in the middle of vineyards without a drop of ocean to be seen! It was built about 100 years ago as a marketing ploy, and now houses an interesting champagne museum. Take the stairs to the top for unparalleled views of the vineyards.
Local
foodie Champagne isn't the only reason gourmands should visit the region. Try these rare local treats while you're there.
Chaource | A soft cows’ milk cheese with a creamy, slightly crumbly texture encased in a white rind. They are often matured for two to three months but some like to eat young Chaource, when the rind is hardly formed. Helpfully, Chaource pairs beautifully with champagne. Available at any deli or even in the cheese aisle at the supermarket.
Les biscuits roses de Reims | It's impossible to resist these pretty pink biscuits that locals like to dip into a glass of champagne as they don’t break when wet. They are light, crunchy and vanilla-flavoured, and date back to the 17th Century, making them one of the oldest biscuits in France. Available at Maison Fossier in Reims.
Reims ham | A must try local speciality, found on menus everywhere. Ham and pork shoulder are cooked in stock, seasoned with nutmeg, parsley and shallots. Once cooked it is coated in yellow breadcrumbs.
Truffles (shhhh!) | It's a little known fact that the forest floors of the Marne produce the same variety of black truffle (tuber melanosporum) as those found in the more famous Périgord. They ripen earlier than those from Périgord, and yield varies from yearto-year. Keep an eye out for them on local menus from late October to December. VINEANDBUBBLE.COM
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