FALL/WINTER 2020
SLED DOG MAIL RUN CELEBRATES CANADA’S HERITAGE
BIGWIN INN The story behind the Muskoka mystique
Winter Games Tighten Family Bonds
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Features 11
Blending Old World Tradition with New World Experiences
Article by Matt Driscoll Photography by Tomasz Szumski Across three generations from Soviet Russia to Bracebridge, Elena Pozdeeva’s family has been perfecting the ancient art of felting. Now her home studio bursts with the fruits of that labour – scarves, hats, 3D sculptures and wall hangings – all of it from the most practical of beginnings.
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Bracing for a Muskoka Winter
Article by John Challis Photography by Tomasz Szumski For those new to a Muskoka winter, here’s a few reminders about life from November to April: Muskoka’s average annual snowfall is 333.9 cm (11 feet, if you prefer Imperial), based on trends over a 30-year period. Average low temperatures dip to about –16° C in January, but it will frequently plunge to –30° or colder.
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Winter Games Tighten Family Bonds
Article by Matt Driscoll Photography by Kelly Holinshead Endurance runs, axe throwing, scavenger hunts, marksmanship competitions and a poetry contest are just a few of the many events that make up the annual challenge for the children of Pam Carlaw and Paul Sullivan. For the past seven years, the couple has played host to the High Falls Winter Games on their 200-acre property in Bracebridge.
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The Contrasting Seasons in Muskoka
Article by Meghan Smith Photography by Andy Zeltkalns The contrast of seasons, of landscapes and of man-made developments is a constant in Muskoka. The beauty of Muskoka’s natural landscape has been modified and influenced by human development. However, the wildness of Muskoka’s environment has remained, producing a unique composition of contrasting scenes. [24]
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2 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
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Bigwin and the Shaping of the Muskoka Mystique
Article by J. Patrick Boyer Great fanfare accompanied Bigwin Inn’s long-awaited opening in June 1920. Exceptional in size, design, style and culture, the Lake of Bays colossus was the British Empire’s largest resort hotel, accommodating over 500 guests. Bigwin Inn surpassed all expectations with patrons of C.O. Shaw’s record-setting resort flocking north to Muskoka from throughout Canada and the U.S.
Opinion
Article by Meghan Smith Photography by Tomasz Szumski Before snowmobiles, sled dogs aided in the delivery of mail, food, equipment and other supplies to communities cut off from traditional modes of transport in the winter months. The Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run is a tribute to the energy, determination and hardiness of Siberian Huskies, one of the leading sled dog breeds.
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By Don Smith
By Heather Douglas
Muskoka Insights
Sled Dog Mail Run Celebrating Canada’s heritage
Muskoka Moments
FALL/WINTER 2020
Departments 48
50
Article by Matt Driscoll Talks about the future of the former Muskoka Regional Centre are once again moving ahead. While popular large-scale autumn events have been cancelled, activities are still being planned. An unprecedented donation funds needed work at South Muskoka hospital. Critical bridge gets repairs while potential blue-green algal blooms are getting attention.
Article by Karen Wehrstein Photography by Tomasz Szumski Muskokans might have to scale back Christmas entertaining plans this year by hosting more intimate groups of their nearest and dearest family and friends. But, that doesn’t mean they can’t be memorable events. We talk with local experts about suggestions for food preparation and decorating.
What’s Happened SLED DOG MAIL RUN CELEBRATES CANADA’S HERITAGE
BIGWIN INN The story behind the Muskoka mystique
Our Cover
Winter Games Tighten Family Bonds
Cottage Country Cuisine
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Photography by Tomasz Szumski The sights and sounds of the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run harken back to times when humans relied on their own ingenuity and their partnership with animals to travel and even to survive.
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 5
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Muskoka Insights a better future. Some were farmers and settlers who overcame the district’s limitations to build a new home for their families. Others were individuals of great foresight and entrepreneurial courage who would have a lasting impact on Muskoka. When it came to promotion of both his own endeavours and the future of the district, Charles Shaw was in a league of his own. Whether as an industrial leader, businessman, tourism operator or civic-minded benefactor, Shaw shaped much of the early growth experienced in Muskoka. Historian Patrick Boyer shares Shaw’s story in this issue of Unique Muskoka. We’ve always felt winter is a standalone season that provides great opportunities for photographic presentation. And, with that in mind, we’re pleased to share with you photographs that highlight the season. Local photographer Andy Zeltkalns features the juxtaposition of popular summer locations as they appear with a covering of snow. Regular contributor Tomasz Szumski turns his lens to capturing the heritage of the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run and the challenges of removing snow during a winter when Muskoka usually receives 11 feet of snowfall. And finally, the talented Kelly Holinshead shares photographs of a family that grows their bonds by taking part in their own version of a winter games. While we hope you will find your own way to celebrate and embrace the coming winter, we encourage you to remember others in our community. Since the first days of settlement, Muskokans have reached out a hand of support. This year, that spirit of community will be so important to the well-being of all. Until we chat again, all the best. Photograph: Susan Smith
As I write this column and put the final touches on the Fall / Winter 2020 issue of Unique Muskoka, there are aspects of the autumn that remain unchanged. We are blessed by trees of glorious colours that create awe-inspiring panoramas. As far as the eye can see, this palette is breathtaking. Warm temperatures and blue skies beckon us outside, whether to complete year end chores or simply enjoy the pleasure of a stroll amongst falling leaves. Routines seem almost normal. One could imagine we’re not facing the challenges of a world-wide pandemic. However, almost as certainly as the leaves will fall, it is likely much will change in the next few weeks. By the time this magazine is released, it is likely the dynamics of COVID-19 will be impacting Muskoka. As we brace for the uncertain, scary statistics indicate the anticipated second wave of this dreaded virus is infecting the community. However, most importantly, it is not the second wave of COVID-19 which should be our biggest concern. Rather, our focus must be on how we respond. In the past, through numerous difficulties, Muskokans have shown they are resilient individuals who demonstrate great care and compassion for their neighbours. Earlier this year, Muskokans stepped forward to shop for neighbours, assist seniors who were encouraged to stay housebound for their own safety and provide support where it was required. As the weeks of autumn evolve into winter, it will be more important than ever for Muskokans to provide their goodwill to family and friends in need. There should be no time for social media finger-pointing. More importantly, it will be a time to reinforce goodness and to use social media for all of its better purposes. Here, in Muskoka, the past 150 years have seen many inspiring stories of individuals who had the vision and the tenacity to build
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ARTIST BLENDS OLD WORLD TRADITION WITH NEW WORLD EXPERIENCES Article by Matt Driscoll Photography by Tomasz Szumski
A
cross three generations from Soviet Russia to Bracebridge, Elena Pozdeeva’s family has been perfecting the ancient art of felting. Now her home studio bursts with the fruits of that labour – scarves, hats, 3D sculptures and wall hangings – all of it from the most practical of beginnings. “In Russia, I was doing felting with my mom and grandmother. This was mostly domestic felting,” says Pozdeeva. “Sometimes you dyed your own wool but mostly we were using unprocessed and undyed wool. It was something traditionally done in the area, but not done by everyone.” Beginning with modest creations built to tackle frigid Russian winters, the limits of Pozdeeva’s felting are now only limited by her imagination. Felting has seen an uptick in popularity in recent years but primarily the process of needle felting. Needle felting involves transforming wool into 3D objects, using a barbed needle. At the micro-level, felting involves agitating the wool fibre and forcing it to bond together, creating a solid fabric.
Elena Pozdeeva has created Muskoka themed wall hangings of all sizes, sweaters, scarves, hats and even teardrop-shaped birdhouses. Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 11
Beginning with modest creations meant to tackle frigid Russian winters, the limits of Elena Pozdeeva’s felting are now only limited by her imagination.
Pozdeeva specializes in wet felting. Wet felting is the process of connecting or blending wool, wool roving or fibre together to make a fabric strictly by using water, water temperature fluctuation, soap and agitation. In other words, it’s using only your hands to transform wool into fabric. From this seemingly basic technique, Pozdeeva has created Muskoka themed wall hangings of all sizes, sweaters, scarves, hats and even birdhouses. “The water passes right through and the whole thing dries in about 30 minutes,” says Pozdeeva, holding up one of her teardropshaped birdhouse specimens. “The colours won’t run either.” Recently, Pozdeeva has been returning to her roots by creating sculptures from unprocessed, undyed wool. Her latest creations are a series of three dimensional, larger than life seeds and seed pods. Growing up in the Ural region of Russia, Pozdeeva was
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ARTISAN MARKET OPEN interested in different styles of art like conventional pastel painting and craftwork. She worked in the advertising industry in Russia, while her husband Petr was a mechanical engineer by trade. The economic turmoil that followed the dissolution of the U.S.S.R. left Pozdeeva and her husband looking for more stable options. Essentially on a whim, they acquired their Canadian visas and moved to Mississauga. “Everyone warned me about the cold and snow but it’s very cold in Ural. I was looking around and wondering where the snow was. It’s not so bad,” Pozdeeva recalls with a laugh.
She eventually landed in the retail fashion industry and the couple had two children – Alexandria and Tim, before deciding they needed a change of lifestyle and a fresh start outside of the city. “Ten years ago, we rented a cottage in Gravenhurst,” says Pozdeeva. “I opened a window and saw these rocks and trees. I said I’m going to live here.” Before long, she and Petr had purchased a house near the Muskoka River in Bracebridge. She also became reacquainted with the traditional family art of wet felting. “I started simple, just to help make my
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Above: Felting involves agitating the wool fibre and forcing it to bond together, creating a more solid fabric. Top: The method used by Elena Pozdeeva requires only hand movement to transform wool into fabric.
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fingers remember,” she says. “Then I started to experiment with what is possible with wool, like 3D effects and making it look like acrylic – maybe I can do something different?” Pozdeeva says she was welcomed with open arms into Muskoka’s arts community and particularly by the Muskoka Arts and Crafts organization and its executive director Elene Freer. The house Pozdeeva and her husband live in now is more than 100 hundred years old and her artwork hangs from the walls in the upper level and fills her basement. Her materials are all sorted by their various colours and types in orderly plastic tubs. “I try to buy Canadian wool, mostly from Quebec and Ontario,” says Pozdeeva. “Mostly it’s sheep’s wool - Merino is the most popular
Elena Pozdeeva’s home studio bursts with the colourful fruits of her labour – scarves, hats, 3D sculptures and wall hangings. - but I also really like alpaca.” People are looking to make those stronger connections to nature, says Pozdeeva, and her artwork does just that. While synthetic material like polyester can take anywhere up to 200 years to decompose,
wool returns to the earth in as little as three to four months. It’s also incredibly versatile, she explains, as it can be worn in very cold Muskoka winters, yet is light and breathable to wear in summer.
The history of felted garments can be traced as far back as 3,500 years ago to Europe and China, and can be found in many areas and cultures over the years. Finished felt clothing products, like scarves and coats, are soft and durable,
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composed of one piece and no stitching. “I make all my own patterns. The tricky part is celebrating the shrinkage. Different things shrink at different rates and felting is a shrinking process. When you use the hot water and soap you can manipulate it. It will shrink up to four times its original size,” she says. “It takes about 40 hours to do a coat and everything is one of a kind. I don’t like doing the mass produced things.” The finished product can go directly into the washing machine, as it’s already been shrunk. Pozdeeva has now set a
Themed wall hangings are among the projects created by Elena Pozdeeva.
new goal for herself – to take what she knows and allow others the chance to learn. She would like to go to area farms and teach them how to felt. “A lot of that extra wool they have just goes in the garbage,” she says. “I’d like to show them how to wash it and process it themselves. You just need hands and soap.” She also has some experience in teaching art and would like to do so again. “I want to make myself useful and give back,” she says. “It’s less money than other jobs but I’m more happy because I can give more. In my opinion, that’s the key to success.” With her talent for creating and sharing her experiences, Pozdeeva is already very successful.
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18 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Photograph: Ken Veitch Collection
o, hey, did you know it lots of people up here now (in snows in the winter in mid-September). There’s more Muskoka? traffic on the highways; Yes, I’m being condescending. Bracebridge and Huntsville are But based on behaviour on the just packed. There’s a lot more roads, clearly the first snowfall people than normal.” of the season is a forgotten For those new to a Muskoka phenomenon to many. Full winter, here’s a few reminders disclosure: Around our house, about life from November to even after decades in central April: Muskoka’s average annual Ontario, that early blanket of In early days, clearing town streets in Muskoka was a challenge that often snowfall is 333.9 cm (11 feet, if saw roads covered with snow and huge snowbanks. This photo is in downtown snow can come as a surprise. you prefer Imperial), based on “Damn. The lawn chairs are Bracebridge. trends over a 30-year period still out ... and the barbecue is covered in Donelda Hayes, the Acting Deputy Mayor calculated on the climate info site snow … the garden hose is frozen solid.” for Muskoka Lakes Township says it’s a eldoradoweather.com. It’s the norm for For some, the snow may actually come as a challenge for the municipality. “Some December and January to experience close to genuinely unfamiliar condition. Thanks to a snowbirds may be coming up here for the a metre of snow. The average low dips to about certain pandemic, the majority of snowbirds first time in winter. And if the (COVID-19 –16° C in January, but it will frequently are unable or unwilling to contemplate their case) numbers go up again, parents in the plunge to –30° or colder. The record reached winter migration. Office complexes in the city may want to pull their kids out of school past –40° C in at least two winters since the city may not open until 2021. The work from and come up here again.” 1970s. From November to March, between home option, so increasingly familiar these In Lake of Bays, the speculation is the same. half and two-thirds of the days will be overcast. days, could prompt a lot of summer residents “Time will tell,” Councillor Bob Lacroix says Throw in a few freezing rain days and winter to try out the romance of winter in Muskoka. of the numbers this winter. “But there are still weather can get on the nerves.
Muskoka Airport’s snow plan, which must be approved by Transport Canada, spells out a rigorous set of procedures.
Photograph: Ken Veitch Collection
But on the positive side: A electronic devices? Have you chickadee may land on your tested the backup generator hand while you’re out, … do you even have a expecting a sunflower seed backup generator? Power or a peanut. You may awake failures happen all year one morning to billows of round, but in winter they snow that turn the evergreens carry more serious coninto marshmallow wonders. sequences. Out on a trail, you’ll marvel Kevin Dawe feels the at the quiet and air you most important thing to never thought could smell so This modified Linn tractor, owned by the Moore family of Falkenburg, was think about now is snow one of the ways Muskokans were able to transport goods in early Muskoka fresh and clean. clearing. If you have a winters. There is a certain amount snowblower, a strong back of knowledge needed to cope with a snowy winter. And that and a healthy heart, you can probably clear your driveway and doesn’t seem to be universal. Witness the tale of a seasonal your walkways on your own. A lot of people, though, rely on resident asking a local if a cord of wood would be enough to heat contracted snow removal. Dawe, who runs Generations a home for the winter. Hint: If you use wood as a sole source of Landscaping and Excavation, says he starts getting calls by midheat, the woodstove will be burning 24 hours a day, 7 days a September, and most of his winter business is booked by week. Think 8 to 12 cords. Thanksgiving. You need to start preparations now, before the snow begins to Dawe’s fleet of plows and snowblowers has been clearing threaten. Has the woodstove chimney been cleaned? If you’re on driveways and private roads, mostly in Glen Orchard, Bala and propane, is the exhaust clear of debris? Is your propane provider Walkers Point, for about six years. It’s tough work but it’s income aware you’re going to be staying here? Did you clear the leaves for him and his crew when the landscaping stops. out of the eave troughs? Do you have portable chargers for your If you want a snow clearing contract that doesn’t break the
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bank, Dawe advises you check the condition of your driveway, and what’s around it. A proper crown on the profile of the driveway means good water runoff that will prevent ice buildup. If you have a loose gravel driveway, be prepared to see a lot of stones strewn around the yard; no amount of care taken plowing can prevent a blade or a blower from grabbing gravel. If your propane tanks are close to the driveway, you could be billed for extra time clearing snow from around the tanks. And make sure the plow route is clear of dog chains, lawn furniture or children’s toys that could be hidden under the snow. “I chewed up an aluminum ladder once,” Dawe recalls. “My hydraulic blower just sucked that thing up and chopped it into pieces; it blew bits of aluminum all over the place.” Plows don’t have radar. There is one local driveway that demands a little more attention than most. It’s 1,829 metres long, and a 747 has been known to land there occasionally. Muskoka Airport’s snow plan, which must be approved by Transport Canada, spells out a rigorous set of procedures. After 2.5 cm (1 inch) of snow falls, a driver must patrol the airstrip, completing a friction test – basically hard braking measured by a decelerometer fitted to the truck – every 1000 feet. The conditions are reported to Nav Canada, which conveys details to pilots. Meanwhile, a plow with a seven-metre (22 foot) blade takes a run at the snow on the runway. It’s followed by a mammoth snowblower to scoop up the windrow and hurl it 60 metres out of the way. Various melting compounds are deposited on the asphalt if hard pack snow or ice are present. Once the plowing is done, a second inspection takes place to be reported to Nav Canada. On top of that operation, the apron and taxi lanes have to
Snow clearing creates a lot of work at Muskoka Airport, usually at a time of year when the business volume is actually down. be cleared, along with the rest of the parking area and walkways for staff and visitors. Snow creates a lot of work, usually at a time of year when the business volume is actually down. What will come of business at Muskoka Airport this winter is a very large question mark for CEO Len O’Connor. COVID-19 has played havoc with its operations. Fly GTA and Porter suspended their flights earlier in the year. Meanwhile, private business flights were up 120 per cent. “This winter will tell us a lot,” O’Connor says. Business keeps growing, with a new operation potentially starting up before the snow flies. If year-round flights are allowed to return, the airport may be getting significantly more traffic than winters
normally see. To plan for that increase, O’Connor says maintenance is being boosted, with the airstrip getting service 22 hours a day. Homeowners will need to be more prepared for bad weather than in the past. Unusual weather patterns are increasingly likely to occur thanks to climate change, says Environment Canada’s senior climatologist David Phillips. It’s not just about warming, he explains: climate change is creating greater variability in the weather. Stronger winds can turn a brief hailstorm into a destructive force, for instance. And weather systems tend to linger for longer periods of time, or in Phillips’ words, “more time to exert its misery.” In mild winters, warm air over an icefree Georgian Bay loads west winds with moisture, creating the lake effect snowfalls that produce the most snow. There will, inevitably, be one or two big snowstorms, and every few years there are monsters. A snowfall on Dec. 10, 1995
Muskoka’s average annual snowfall is 333.9 cm (11 feet, if you prefer Imperial), based on trends over a 30-year period. Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 21
Our municipalities, fortunately, have been through the worst that winter — and angry ratepayers — can dole out. They have annual procedures that have already begun; winter supplies of sand and salt were purchased back in the summer. shut Muskoka down with nearly a metre of snow overnight. When storms happen, you may find yourself shut in without power. The Simcoe Muskoka District Health Unit recommends you keep a survival kit that will last 72 hours, including water, cash, crank or battery powered lighting and radio, a first-aid kit, extra keys to the car and house, prescription medication, baby formula if needed, and any other necessities for people with special needs. Our municipalities, fortunately, have been through the worst that winter – and angry ratepayers – can dole out. They have annual procedures that have already begun; winter supplies of sand and salt were purchased back in the summer. The District of Muskoka’s “winter control” budget sits at about $4.5 million, up nearly 5 per cent from 2019. That money primarily trickles down to the area municipalities, which do the balance of road plowing and
22 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
sanding. Roads crews are considered to be in active winter readiness as of November 1, and the coverage will continue to April 30. Muskoka Lakes Mayor Phil Harding says township plow routes are currently being reviewed and changed or updated as needed. A fleet of vehicles is being checked and serviced and road crews are getting their refresher training. The whole winter roads maintenance process is going digital, too. Harding notes that his Township’s plows will be equipped with location tracking software that will transmit the vehicles’ whereabouts directly to the township’s website, so ratepayers will know “when to expect the plow at your location.” As the autumn colours begin to break out, speculation on the winter to come is a favourite pastime. David Phillips says early forecasts from the Farmer’s Almanac or folk tales are good for conversation but not much else. Environment Canada doesn’t do its long-
range charting of the weather until November. However, Phillips says there are a few factors that are already in play that can affect how winter plays out. “Summer sometimes influences winter, and for us, this was the summer of summers,” he says. Muskoka’s summer had 22 days with temperatures above 30, while the norm is five. The region received 20 per cent more rain than normal, which fed the forests and kept them healthy. “The Great Lakes are warmer than they have ever been,” he added. The residual heat on water and land may slow the arrival of autumn, he predicted (in spite of the first frost advisory on Sept. 14). He also predicts brilliant fall colours, although they may start later in the season. Long range forecasts and folk tales may not be much help as you prepare for winter. But the bottom line is you do need to prepare – for both the nasty side of winter, and all the fun that awaits.
Article by Matt Driscoll / Photography by Kelly Holinshead
24 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
F
or generations, the allure of wild Muskoka has brought families together for unique outdoor experiences. Some families take the experience slightly more seriously than others and fewer still go as far as Pam Carlaw and Paul Sullivan. For the past seven years, the couple has played host to the High Falls Winter Games on their 200-acre property in Bracebridge. Endurance runs, axe throwing, scavenger hunts, marksmanship competitions and a poetry contest are just a few of the many events that make up the annual challenge. “The water boiling competition is the great equalizer,” says Sullivan. “They get two pieces of wood, an axe, three matches, a 48 oz tin of water and a one ounce bar of soap. Their job is to build a fire and make that water bubble over.” The competitors vie for the coveted Winter Games plaque, but the real end goal is family bonding. The games bring together the couple’s four children and their partners, and in more recent years, their three grandchildren as well. “It’s so much fun and a real family party,” says Carlaw. “They’re all great kids but you’d better have your facts straight. They’ve got a competitive side and this really brings it out in a good way.” The eight competitors, four couples all in their 20s and 30s, come from as far away as Australia to the High Falls Road property every year on the weekend before Christmas to tackle a range of physical and mental tests. Originally from Toronto, the couple purchased the property in 2013. They had previously owned a property on Birch Island in Lake Muskoka but decided to move to the region year-round and purchase a bigger property. “It’s all about skill building and specifically the skill of living on a rural property,” says Sullivan, who’s been involved in forestry for most of his life and has a degree in agriculture from the University of Guelph. “The more
For the past seven years, Pam Carlaw and Paul Sullivan have played host to the High Falls Winter Games on their 200-acre property in Bracebridge. Every year, a new event is added to the mix, just to make sure the competitors are on their toes. Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 25
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skills you have, the more you’ll be able to appreciate the outdoors. We started by focusing on skills like axe throwing and log splitting – things the old-time woodsmen would have done to pass the time.” Sullivan’s children Eric and Emma and Carlaw’s children Andrea and Emily have been a blended family unit since the children were in their early teens growing up in the Leaside neighbourhood of Toronto. “They grew up with the same friends and they’ve always got along really well,” says Carlaw. “In those early days we did a lot of traveling and we found that it really brought us closer as a family. They grew up as cottage and camp kids, so they love coming up here.” Now in addition to their partners – Jenna, Jon, John and Ben – three grandchildren come up for the games and a babysitter takes over while the eight participants venture into the frozen proving grounds. Every year, Sullivan and Carlaw throw a new event into the mix, just to make sure the competitors are on their toes. Last year’s new challenge was to create a serving tray using a few tools and some rough cut lumber. “We judged them on things like how tight the joints were and the tray’s appearance, and then we gave them an overall score,” says Sullivan. Another event involves participants being given a single snowshoe and sent on a scavenger hunt through the snow to find the other. Others include marksmanship with a bow and arrow, BB gun or .22 (which requires one of the partners to get a firearms Possession and Acquisition License to take part). One contest began with a desperate phone call from a neighbour claiming to be hurt and lost in the woods. “It was actually part of a search and rescue event. We had a neighbour hiding in the woods who called to say he had broken his leg and was lost,” says
Sullivan. “They had to go find him but everyone believed it was actually real at first.” The year before that, the investment challenge was the new addition to the games. All of the contestants were given an amount of money to invest over a five-year term. The only guidelines were the investment had to be legal and trackable, which led most of them to invest in the stock market. The following years have seen the participants using charts and graphs to outline the outcomes. “They really went all over the place. Some played it safe and some went very risky,” says Carlaw. “Some went in for cannabis and lost their shirts.” Another challenge involves one half of the team competing in an endurance challenge while the other pursues more artistic endeavours in a poetry writing competition. The poems are then read over dinner and all of them have been kept for posterity. The endurance challenge has been somewhat tempered over the years, as the original version involved repelling down an icy gorge and running
Endurance runs, axe throwing, scavenger hunts, marksmanship competitions and a poetry contest are just a few of the many events that make up the annual challenge. through knee-deep snow. “It was a bit intense,” says Sullivan with a chuckle. “We still haven’t lived that one down.” The different competitions were originally timed but it was felt the point of the games – to truly appreciate the beauty of Muskoka in winter and master the skills to enjoy the outdoors here – was being lost in the rush.
Competitors no longer race against the clock – with the exception of the water boiling challenge. That event has seen times drop from 15 minutes to boil down to just nine minutes, last year. The couples attend without fail every winter, although Australian residents Ben and Emily have had to attend virtually some years. On another occasion, even a wedding
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 27
While competitors vie for the coveted Winter Games plaque, the real end goal is family bonding for the participants. between one of the couples couldn’t get in the way of the annual winter celebration. The day after the nuptials all eight contestants were back in Muskoka and ready for the opening of the competition. The planning always starts early and
28 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Sullivan and Carlaw know after seven years of competitions they need to up their game each year. While healthy competition is a big draw for the couples, camaraderie and family spirit are the cornerstone of the High Falls Winter Games.
“A little healthy competition goes a long way but they all really want to support each other as much as possible,” says Carlaw. “Even though our family might be scattered all over the planet, the Winter Games really helps to keep us a tightknit family.”
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M
uskoka is filled with icons, both natural and manmade. Lakes, waterfalls and rock formations coupled with bridges, boats and lookout towers shape the memories of visitors and locals, alike. In each season, the iconic landscapes and landmarks are altered. As the seasons turn throughout the year, each change brings a new perspective. Above: Bracebridge Falls in winter with the power station in the foreground. Below: Muskoka’s reputation as a The same location in summer with lower water flow.
30 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
summer playground is well earned. The multitude of lakes, coupled with rugged terrain make the region perfect for boating, hiking, cycling and generally, escaping from the hustle and bustle of daily life. From spring to summer to fall to winter, the small towns and quaint villages throughout Muskoka adapt to variable temperatures, fluctuating populations and changing weather.
Places that are bustling hubs of activity during the summer months become quieter, with transient traffic dropping after the Labour Day and Thanksgiving holidays. As nights turn colder, mornings include mist rising from the rivers, lakes and marshes across the region. As snow falls, trees become lined in frost, ice peppers the edge of the water and a hush settles on the landscape. The contrast of seasons, of landscapes and of manmade developments is a constant in Muskoka. From one town to the next, the beauty of Muskoka’s natural landscape has been modified and influenced by human development. However, the wildness of Muskoka’s environment has remained, producing a unique composition of contrasting scenes.
High Falls Waterfalls are an undeniable force of nature – the sheer power, the noise, the light reflecting and refracting off the surface as the water cascades down over rocks. Along the north branch of the Muskoka River, High Falls plunges a steep 50-foot drop, making it one of the highest waterfalls in the region. Although a dam was constructed in 1948 to capture hydro-electric power, the main falls remain relatively intact. While High Falls is the most visible, there are an additional four waterfalls in the same area. During the spring freshet, the roar of
Above: A frozen cap of ice covers the waterfall and rocks at High Falls. Below: Regardless of the season, there always seems to be a strong flow of water at High Falls.
water thundering down the rocks makes High Falls an incredible site to visit. The trailhead, accessible from Cedar Lane, is somewhat hidden. The 2.4-kilometre hike passes by Little High Falls, with a picturesque walking bridge, before ending at High Falls. During the height of the winter, High Falls becomes a mass of ice, snow and icicles, growing with each day as the rushing waters freeze in the sub-zero temperatures. The trail provides excellent snowshoeing or crosscountry skiing in winter and hiking, walking or trail running through the summer.
Bracebridge Falls Further down the north branch of the Muskoka River, Bracebridge Falls is the final drop of the north branch of the river before it joins the south branch and meets Lake
Muskoka. The falls are impressive, topped by the iconic Silver Bridge and surrounded by hydro stations, harnessing the power of the water flowing through the river. The falls are located in downtown Bracebridge, just off of Manitoba Street, with the Bracebridge Bay Trail providing scenic views of the bay and falls. The rich history of the falls and the development of Bracebridge are outlined in various plaques along the trail. Bracebridge Falls, and the other waterfalls in the Bracebridge area, provided the hydro power necessary for much of the local development through the decades. Winter sees a slowdown in seasonal visitors but the frosted trees and steam rising from the powerful churn of the falls are not a sight to be missed. In December, the
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 31
Above: The popular cruise boats Segwun and Wenonah are frozen in place at their Gravenhurst Bay berth. Below: With the coming of summer, these popular attractions are ready to cruise with passengers.
Gravenhurst Bay
annual Festival of Lights sees the lighting of trees and the Silver Bridge. In summer, the Bracebridge Falls and Bracebridge Bay Park are host to a multitude of events, none more well-attended than the annual Canada Day fireworks, igniting beautifully above the Silver Bridge and falls.
Lady Muskoka For over 50 years, the Lady Muskoka has graced the Muskoka River and Lake Muskoka with its presence. The three-level, 104-foot boat holds up to 300 passengers per cruise, providing a leisurely look at cottages, wildlife and the nearby Millionaire’s Row.
32 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Summertime cruises, complete with lunch or dinner and stunning sunsets on Lake Muskoka, give passengers a glimpse of the seasonal homes of the wealthy Muskoka residents. The heritage homes built in the last century along the route and the nearby private islands are exceptional. As winter takes hold in Bracebridge, ice creeping along the riverbanks and flowing down the river, the Lady Muskoka remains docked at the Quality Inn, awaiting her next voyage in the spring. Travelling up the Muskoka River from Lake Muskoka is not a swift journey, taking approximately 40 minutes.
Steamships represent another iconic piece of Muskoka and Muskoka’s history as a tourist destination. They were first introduced to the Muskoka lakes in the late 1800s, as settlers required a way to traverse the territory, having arrived by steam train. As hotels and resorts were built on the many water access properties, steamship travel flourished until the 1930s, when roadways became more passable. Steamships re-entered Muskoka as a commercial vessel with the restoration and relaunch of the Segwun in 1981 by the Muskoka Lakes Navigation and Hotel Company Limited, now owned by the Muskoka Steamship and Historical Society. In 1993, the company took on the operation of the heritage steam yacht Wanda III and in 2002 launched an entirely new vessel, Wenonah II. During the sailing season, both Segwun and Wenonah II can be seen passing along various routes of the Muskoka lakes. Segwun has made the long journey all the way up the Muskoka River to Bracebridge Bay, but not since 1983 when a low bridge was constructed, preventing her passing. Throughout the winter, the ships of the Muskoka Steamship and Historical Society are moored at Gravenhurst Bay. As thick ice
encrusts the shallow bay and snow coats their decks, the ships could almost be mistaken for those lost in the Arctic, found years later as the snows shift. Luckily, winter soon gives way to spring and the ships can recommence their regular journeys, ferrying tourists to the many unique sights of Muskoka’s lakes.
Dorset Located to the east of Lake of Bays, the hamlet of Dorset has a year-round population of 500 residents, swelling in the summer months. The quaint village is a dividing line between the District of Muskoka and the County of Haliburton, technically split directly at the Main Street. The small community was developed with partnership and dedication and both municipalities work together in ensuring Dorset’s prosperity. In early times, like much of Muskoka, settlers tried to make a living first with logging, and then farming before tourism finally became the more viable industry. No matter the season, tourists can enjoy the local shops and artisans along with the beautiful natural backdrop of clear blue water, dense forests and open air. Dorset Lookout Tower at the top of Tower Hill draws crowds, particularly during the change of the fall colours, for the views of the many breathtaking vistas. Similar to the Muskoka Steamship and Historical Society’s refurbishment of Segwun, Dorset and Lake of Bays were at one time regularly visited by steamships, large and small. Starting in 1925, SS Bigwin delivered
Above: Docked at the convergence of the North Branch and South Branch of the Muskoka River, the Lady Muskoka awaits spring thaw before it will be ready to cruise. Below: For over 50 years, the Lady Muskoka has graced the Muskoka River and Lake Muskoka with its presence. visitors from the mainland to Bigwin Inn on Bigwin Island. As tourism changed, the SS Bigwin fell into disuse and eventually sat partially submerged at the docks of Bigwin Inn. In 1991, a group of Lake of Bays cottagers and residents began work to purchase and restore the SS Bigwin to its former glory. The Lake of Bays Marine Museum and Navigation Society acquired use of property in the heart of Dorset with a rich nautical history to complete the restoration project and to later become a permanent docking facility. In November 2012, the SS Bigwin once again set sail on Lake of Bays to pass preliminary engine tests. The ship was
officially relaunched to the public in July of 2013 and continues to provide public and private cruises.
Lions Lookout Although there are no mountains in Muskoka, elevation can change drastically with the hills and rock formations
Left: The cut in Dorset with the S.S. Bigwin, in the background, pulled from the water for the winter. Right: The S.S. Bigwin waiting to take passengers on a cruise from its Dorset dock. Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 33
Above: The vista from the Lions Lookout is wide and expansive in the winter without any leaves on the trees. Below: The Lions Lookout is a popular north Muskoka location to see the view from a Huntsville highpoint in summer. throughout the region. Often accessible by hiking or walking trail, the lofty vantage points all over Muskoka provide breathtaking views of the nearby communities and lakes, in any season.
Lions Lookout is one such vantage point. Located on a 1.5-kilometre trail, accessible from the Canada Summit Centre in Huntsville, the trail follows Camp Kitchen Road along the Muskoka River to Fairy
Lake. Before the steep climb to the top of the lookout, the trail crosses the railway tracks of the Portage Flyer, the world’s smallest commercial railroad. In winter or in summer, the panorama from the top of Lions Lookout is striking. The lookout has been maintained by the local Lions Club since 1968 for residents and visitors to enjoy. Viewing the town of Huntsville and the Muskoka River meandering through its core or looking out to Fairy Lake and beyond, the combination of natural and urban provides a contrasted perspective of all Muskoka has to offer.
The Cliffs at Skeleton Bay Highway 141 covers a stretch of rural Muskoka area from Utterson to just north of MacTier. The route snakes through rugged rock and forests, passing by many smaller lakes and hugging the edge of Lake Rosseau as the highway passes through the village of
The four corners of Highway 141, at Rice Street and Cardwell Road, host the Rosseau General Store, Hilltop Interiors, Crossroads Restaurant and the local post office with a much different look between summer and winter. 34 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
KEEP WARM THIS WINTER
The cliffs at Skeleton Bay on Lake Rosseau make an amazing venue for photos whether in the winter (Above) or the summer (Below). They are located just south of the Village of Rosseau, off Hwy. 141.
Rosseau. The 78-kilometre route is perfect for a leisurely Sunday drive in every season. Much of the area is unpopulated, giving long sight lines of the prominent Canadian Shield, dotted with evergreens and, at some points, jutting seemingly directly out of Lake Rosseau. The large stretches of natural landscape are punctuated by small pockets of settlement, often hidden among the trees, down small laneways. Each curve, hill and sweep of the road presents a new adventure, whether cycling, driving, motorcycling or snowmobiling.
Rosseau Similarly, to Dorset, Rosseau rests on the edge of two municipalities, Muskoka Lakes and Seguin, between two different districts, Muskoka and Parry Sound. The small community boasts rich history in Muskoka and in Ontario. Rosseau was a major thoroughfare in connecting to more northern communities, specifically those along the now defunct Rosseau-Nipissing Road.
Settlers, despite the challenges of the terrain and the changing seasons, built homes in Rosseau, many of which are still in use by later generations today. Along the route to the village are many summer camps and Rosseau Lake College. The four corners of Highway 141, at Rice Street and Cardwell Road, host the Rosseau General Store, Hilltop Interiors, Crossroads Restaurant and the local post office. Sitting at the most northern part of Lake Rosseau, the village of Rosseau welcomes thousands of tourists and cottagers in the summer months and enjoys a more relaxing pace during the winter. The rich history of Muskoka’s settlement and the changing industries have forever marked the region. Muskoka is a patchwork of communities, landscapes, natural wonders and human attractions. Whether it is the height of hot, sunny summers or the deep winter’s frigid brilliance, Muskoka’s contrasting natural and manmade wonders are worth visiting.
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Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 35
Photograph: Douglas Graham McTaggart Collection
Bigwin Inn guests arriving from across North American and beyond aboard either of C.O. Shaw’s steamships Iroquois or Mohawk Belle gasped with delight to see appearing before them on Lake of Bays these uniquely imposing, elegant and fireproof Bigwin Island structures.
“B
including aboard legendary Wanda III when she was part of the Bigwin fleet. Great fanfare had accompanied Bigwin Inn’s long-awaited opening in June 1920. Exceptional in size, design, style and culture, the Lake of Bays colossus, built by entrepreneur Charles Orlando Shaw, was the British Empire’s largest resort hotel, accommodating over 500 guests. Top chefs, modern kitchens and extensive staff (one waitress for each table) could serve more than 750 diners at once in the fabulous 12-sided “Indian Head” dining room. Bigwin Farm in Huntsville sent vegetables, fruit and dairy
products daily aboard Shaw’s steamships, which also picked up clean linens and towels laundered in town. The resort was an extensive, community-wide operation. Bigwin Inn surpassed all expectations in high fashion and patrons of C.O. Shaw’s record-setting resort flocked north from his own native land, the United States. Today, Huntsville’s train station may seem oddly situated, well below the main street, but in the Golden Age of steam, arriving trainloads of vacationers with coveted Bigwin Inn reservations had only to leisurely descend the short distance downhill from their Grand
The waterfront at Bigwin Inn was a busy spot with boathouse and dock infrastructure to support the arrival of steamers including the steam yacht, S.S. Bigwin. 36 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Photograph: Douglas Graham McTaggart Collection
Photograph: Muskoka Heritage Place, Huntsville
igwin Inn lends prestige to our District because it enjoys a continent-wide reputation as the largest and most attractive summer resort in America,” wrote Captain Levi Fraser in his 1940s book The History of Muskoka. The steamship captain knew Muskoka intimately from lifelong work on the lakes and as a visionary municipal leader with a district-wide perspective. With Bigwin Inn on an island, Captain Fraser knew first-hand about the resort’s North American renown, having ferried thousands of notables across Lake of Bays to this summer paradise,
By J. Patrick Boyer
Trunks of formal attire for weeks-long stays at Bigwin Inn were commonplace when the resort opened. The steamer Iroquois delivers guests and prepares to board excursionists.
Photograph: Douglas Graham McTaggart Collection
Owner-operator Charles Orlando Shaw (second from right) enjoys the amiable company of prominent male guests in Bigwin Inn’s spacious Rotunda. Despite all the wood in this interior, Shaw was at the North American vanguard of ensuring fire-resistant construction.
comfortably at home on their island paradise. canoeing, fishing, or hiking. By this date, all parts of Muskoka were Wanting to return the coming season, they’d easily accessible. Whether at Bigwin, the learned to book well ahead. Bigwin Inn deserved its stellar reputation. Royal Muskoka or the many other resorts and It was no run-of-the-mill addition to camps offering a full range of accommodations, Muskoka’s existing array of holiday the district offered freedom from demands of accommodations. The only other resort in its city life that could match anyone’s budget. league was The Royal Muskoka on Lake But Bigwin Inn had become Muskoka’s Rosseau, a magnet to plutocrats for two flagship, a definite upgrade on the Royal decades before Shaw’s Lake of Bays gem Muskoka’s model of convenient steam era appeared on the scene. Both well-publicized travel to an island club for society’s movers resorts catapulted the Muskoka vacation and shakers. For decades, Bigwin Inn indelibly experience, already famous as early as the reaffirmed the prestigious status of Muskoka 1880s, into the stratosphere. Lieutenant Perry Deters and his wife vacationing by staying focused and arrived from Los Angeles in 1942, their first innovating. C.O. Shaw implemented Capt. time in Canada. They’d never heard about Fraser’s recommendation for more intensive Muskoka or its famous resort until a Chicago advertising. Engaging promotional films friend tipped them off. They were so surprised shot at Bigwin were shown in American and impressed by lavish Bigwin Inn that, movie theatres, and flyers and newspaper upon leaving, declared their first visit would ads drew attention as Hollywood promoted its new movies. By mid-century, 65 per cent not be their last. “It would seem that Muskoka needs a more of Bigwin’s guests came from the United States. And if Americans intensive and enthusiastic liked it, Canadians would program or system for too. advertising its wares,” concluded The saga of Bigwin Inn is Fraser, “to let more of the world inseparable from the career of know that Muskoka ranks first its creator, Charles Shaw, a among vacation centres of man who did so much to America.” The captain listed make Muskoka famous yet what made life in Muskoka who seems an enigma today. enjoyable: sunshine, pure air, Charles Orlando Shaw, a cool nights, pure spring water in virtuoso cornet player since abundance, plenty of choice childhood and a Bostonfood, beds in which a king or trained civil engineer, was queen could relax to their heart’s born at Dexter, Maine in content. One’s choice of sports, Charles O. Shaw was a man 1859 and raised to be a he added, included golf, tennis, who did much to make tanning industry player in the bathing, swimming, sailing, Muskoka famous. Photograph: Muskoka Heritage Place, Huntsville
Trunk Railway coaches, admiring scenery while horse-drawn wagons transferred their large trunks for month-long stays to a wharfside steamer such as the Algonquin, awaiting them on Hunter’s Bay. Muskoka vacationing had advanced in tandem with the steam era. Passengers arriving in easy comfort by steam train from across the continent moved in stately fashion through Huntsville as a swing bridge let their steamer pass. The canal dredged in 1887 between Fairy and Peninsula lakes enabled the large vessel to carry them through dramatic scenery. A waiting steam-train at North Portage gave them a wilderness wonderland adventure as “the smallest commercially operated railway in the world” climbed 103 feet over the mere 5/8ths of a mile to South Portage and higher Lake of Bays. Another steamship, such as the Iroquois or Mohawk Belle, then transported them toward Bigwin Island as spectacular structures, grander and more extravagant than anything ever before in Muskoka, came into view. They landed to well-orchestrated welcomes. Their trunks were discreetly moved by uniformed staff to their allotted spacious and wellappointed rooms in the East Lodge, West Lodge or free-standing stone cottages. Quiet and privacy awaited in these quarters, separated as they were from the Rotunda, dancing pavilion, dining room and other facilities, though connected by covered pathways. Bigwin Inn opened just as Prohibition became law, but it was a “dry” hotel anyway because C.O. had become a prohibitionist when running a leather tannery in Cheboygan, Michigan. Guests brought clandestine supplies in their luggage and bellboys made fortunes in tips discreetly bringing ice and mix to their exquisitely private rooms. At Bigwin Inn, one way or another, everything worked to perfection. The on-island experience was so exceptional that, as Captain Fraser observed in the 1940s, “guests have fallen into habit of coming back year after year.” He named many of the era’s tycoons and celebrities as examples, a number having shown up 23 consecutive seasons! By the same token, Shaw’s loyal and long-serving staff infused Bigwin Inn with familiar stability. The rich and famous were
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 37
offices across the U.S. and in Europe. At this northern Michigan town, Charles’s inherited understanding of tanning from his family’s smaller operations rapidly expanded in new areas. He learned how a company could control its workers. He discovered how to operate a tight relationship with a municipality. His experience with men staggering to work from the company’s own saloon made him a prohibitionist. And he’d gained confidence that he could run just about anything. In autumn 1898, Charles received urgent word from cousin William Sutherland Shaw imploring him to come to Huntsville and help tackle mounting problems at his Muskoka tanneries. Back in 1890, Huntsville council had granted William a 10-year tax exemption “in consideration of establishing a tannery in the village.” In 1891, in partnership with David Alexander, he built the ShawCassils tannery on Center Street by the Muskoka River and, while at it, constructed a second tanning facility farther downstream on the same river in Bracebridge. Now, seven years on, C.O. Shaw and his family, which included a son also named Charles born at Cheboygan, arrived in Huntsville. He could readily have imagined himself still in Dexter, or Cheboygan. The North Muskoka scenery, appearance of Huntsville, its sawmill and tanning economy, and local enthusiasm for hunting and fishing were common to all three towns nestling along the same 45th latitude.
Photograph: Douglas Graham McTaggart Collection
Shaw family’s generations-long business. In 1890 Charles and wife, Jennie Lavinia Abbott, a renowned musician in her own right, relocated with their daughters Pauline and Jennifer, to Cheboygan, Michigan. As a tannery specialist and civil engineer, Shaw would design and oversee construction of a new tanning plant for the Pfister and Vogel Leather Company. The project created a company town of more than 30 buildings on 25 acres along the riverbank. The land had been donated by Cheboygan council as incentive to build a tannery, councillors figuring best use of their area’s hemlock forests was the tannin in the trees’ bark. When extracted and combined in a vat with raw hides, tannic acid creates a chemical reaction that cures the leather while preventing its decomposition. Shaw thrilled to the size of the operation. The Cheboygan tannery had capacity to tan a thousand hides a day. A spur rail line connected the tannery floor to tracks of the Michigan Central, bringing in raw hides and taking out tanned leather for boots and industrial drive belts. In addition to everything needed for producing leather, the complete community boasted a company-owned and operated general store, hospital, school, boarding houses, apartments, water tower and, essential in the 1890s mid-west, a saloon. A number of almost identical companyowned houses were rented to workers with families. By 1894, besides Charles, the place employed some 250 men. The company had
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38 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
White linen service, a waitress for each table who memorized orders, stylish formal attire for breakfast, and the comforting elegance of Art Deco design were among the compelling attributes of Bigwin’s Indian Head dining room.
Photograph: Robert McLennan Photograph: J. Mills Collection, Muskoka Heritage Place
The trouble-shooter found his Canadian cousin at an impasse, facing workers demanding more pay. They were slowing down work, jeopardizing valuable hides part-way through curing. Unlike his cousin, however, Charles was seasoned in hardball American industrial relations, where owners ran tanneries like any other manufacturing plant, mine or mill. The clear-eyed paladin knew just what to do. After quickly reviewing the numbers, he expressed dismay over the plant’s tawdry output and the tanners’ declining productivity. He pushed the men to work harder than most in Muskoka’s easygoing workforce were accustomed. If they showed up late for work, they’d be sent home for the day without pay. They’d have daily and weekly production quotas to meet. In reply, they downed tools and walked off the job, upset with an autocratic Yankee’s regulations. The Huntsville Forester reported workers complaining of being so worn out by workday’s end they were “almost unable to walk home.” Huntsville’s Reeve Tom Goldie and local clergymen inserted themselves as go-betweens, or conciliators, in North Muskoka’s first industrial stoppage. But Charles Shaw said no time could be wasted waiting for divine intervention. He looked at the politician and the clerics without blinking, stating he’d simply hire an entire new workforce if the men didn’t return to their jobs. After their week-long strike, the men returned to the tannery, picked up their tools, and resumed work at the unchanged pay rate.
Above: Bigwin Inn opened a century ago in June 2020 to much fanfare, including music provided by C.O. Shaw’s already famous Anglo-Canadian Concert Band which performed by invitation at the CNE Grandstand. Left: Jennie Lavinia Abbott, a renowned musician in her own right, was the wife of Bigwin owner C.O. Shaw.
And that’s about where the Muskoka saga of C.O. Shaw as hard-bitten American business tycoon generally begins. In the words of Douglas McTaggart, author of the definitive history of Bigwin Inn, “upon arrival in Huntsville Shaw appeared to be quite the autocratic individual. … he cast himself as a martinet in the business world.” But McTaggart under-standably looked beyond that general perception because being a strict authoritarian could not alone account for C.O. Shaw’s unique accomplishments. The author, who’d experienced Bigwin Inn from childhood summers on Lake of Bays, saw in Shaw “a man of great vision,” one who “refused to compromise the integrity of work done under his name,” possessing “unrelenting commitment to excellence,” and having great “business acumen,” which included getting municipal tax exemptions from Huntsville and Bracebridge councils. The simple fact is that Charles Shaw rose to prominence as a major player in North America’s tanning industry, a crude and foul business. He ran operations with an iron hand, as his thousands of employees over the years would attest. Yet the same man made his tanneries fireproof, hired more workers, built company housing for his Huntsville tanners as he’d done at Cheboygan, and negotiated with Canada Life Assurance Company its first-ever group policy, issued January 12, 1920 for $300,000, covering 30 key employees. He deeply cared about
children. He was active in community life. He displayed high sensitivity for music and had married a woman of great musical talent of her own. Lavinia, a contralto, for years led the St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Choir. Other interests found her in Huntsville’s Literary Club. An alpha male, C.O. was wiry, kept his hair cropped short, wore bowties and was physically strong. Yet that middle name lent his character a romantic dimension. Charles Orlando Shaw was a Muskoka exotic. He was, moreover, in Muskoka to stay. Charles became vice-president of the company upon arrival in Huntsville. By 1905, he’d consolidated ownership, become president and general manager, and reorganized and renamed the company to fit his grander vision. Local farming communities profitably sold him hides from their slaughtered livestock and tanning bark from their hemlock stands to cure them. Distant Argentinian cattlemen exported hides to his efficient tanneries in Bracebridge and Huntsville. Combined with Muskoka Leather Company’s tannery in Bracebridge, the three accounted for the largest leather production in the British Empire. C.O. applied more Cheboygan lessons to Muskoka. He rebuilt and expanded his Huntsville and Bracebridge tanneries with fireproof concrete. He increased international leather sales from a head office in Montreal, taking full advantage of British Empire trade preferences. He changed the business name from Shaw-Cassils to the more broadly
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 39
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40 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Photograph: Douglas Graham McTaggart Collection
effectively by a trophy destination: a appealing Anglo-Canadian Leather spectacular tourist hotel of his own. Company. In 1911, he bought the largest island Under that name, Shaw happily and in the lake, Bigwin, mid-channel in the unstintingly fostered formation of the northern part of the lake and special to Anglo-Canadian Concert Band from the Ojibwe people for its communal life, talented musicians at his Huntsville sacred for its three burial grounds. The tannery, poor immigrants from Italy with only way eager guests and all their familiar but battered instruments. He luggage could arrive would be on one of bought them swank uniforms and Shaw’s steamers. expensive new instruments. He himself The redevelopment of Patmore House played first coronet. He imported talent, lodge as Hotel Britannia particularly including top clarinettist E.A. Wall Sr. captivated Shaw by its artful integrity of from Chicago. He landed pre-eminent design. Britannia’s owner, Thomas J. American band leader Herbert L. Clarke White, introduced C.O. to his architect, with a five-year $75,000 (present value, John Wilson, a fellow resident of $2,850,000) contract. Collingwood. Already Simcoe County’s Besides conducting, renowned top architect, Wilson was rapidly composer Clarke wrote many pieces while becoming one of Canada’s pre-eminent living in Huntsville, including Lake of designers. Bays, Twilight Dreams, Lavinia in honour And the magic began. The visionary of Shaw’s wife and Helen for his civil engineer and innovative architect granddaughter. Clarke’s march Bigwin, mirrored each other as they shared ideas played during the band’s acclaimed and outlooks. Shaw described his vision performance at 1919’s CNE grandstand Ample supplies of pure spring water (100,000 gallons) for Bigwin Inn’s extensive operations came from this water for Bigwin Inn – its bold nature, extensive show in Toronto, was part of the resort’s tower but the source of the springs themselves, high on an use of space, a complete community like prelaunch publicity. Huntsville’s Angloisland, remains a mystery. he’d created in Cheboygan, and direct Canadian Band became internationally renowned, thanks to radio broadcasts across pleasure and renown, C.O. Shaw next and continuing expression of Bigwin Island’s Canada and as far south as Miami – another advanced into the transportation and Aboriginal importance. Receptive Wilson offered ideas for turning this dream into way C.O. Shaw was putting Muskoka on the accommodation businesses. In 1905, he gained control of Huntsville reality. map. To everyone’s delight but nobody’s Having lived most of his life along the surprise, next year music by the Anglo- and Lake of Bays Navigation Company, Canadian Concert Band drifted across Lake of backed by financial resources from his high 45th parallel in Dexter, Cheboygan and production tanneries. Its steam era fleet of Huntsville, Shaw knew what a northern Bays from Bigwin Inn. Shaw’s influence extended with his inland ships and railway at the Portage hinterland style required, and so did Wilson. economic and political power. His tanneries dominated transport throughout Huntsville’s They’d use local materials – wood, stone, gravel from the Tapley farm. They’d honour in Huntsville and Bracebridge, steadily hinterland. In 1907, he learned all about resorts when Indigenous people. They’d pioneer with steel generating wealth, provided a $70,000 yearly payroll – by far Muskoka’s largest – for Anglo- assisting the Canadian Railway News reinforced concrete, mortar, huge spaces, Canadian’s 150 employees. Funds flowed to Company build its upscale $195,000 WaWa large wood beams and extensive masonry suppliers, municipal coffers (once taxes began Hotel on the east side of Lake of Bays. Shaw’s using Muskoka rock – blending diverse but to be paid), the treasuries of railway companies involvement was key, given his transportation complementary designs. Together they and the pockets of teamsters. He meshed monopoly between Huntsville’s train station opened a new chapter in Canadian architecture and North American resort life. municipal government and local industry. He and Lake of Bays resorts. Once underway, Bigwin came in for In 1910, he contemplated his integrated got himself elected to Huntsville council. Exemplifying what “hands-on” management transport system and the continuously derision as Toronto dailies mocked the idea of means, relentlessly energetic Shaw was a hard- escalating success of numerous Lake of Bays such a high-end resort in the province’s driving, can-do American engineer and resorts – Gouldie House, Hotel Britannia, backwaters. Following the Toronto Star’s cue, entrepreneur with good taste, musical talent Ronville Lodge, Iroquois Hotel, Ganoseyo, locals gleefully dubbed the monumental but Port Cunnington Lodge, New Moon Lodge, languishing project “Shaw’s Folly.” and a touch of class. Construction dragged not only because of With his Anglo-Canadian tanneries well Burlmarie House, Langton House, White anchored in the global leather business, and House and Point Pleasant – and envisaged new uses of special materials. Shaw’s his Anglo-Canadian Concert Band bringing tying all these elements together more unprecedented standards, Wilson’s innovative
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 41
Photograph: Jennifer Mills
structures and exacting and style beyond anything else specifications, complications of in the District. They would keep island work and the project’s Bigwin standing while other immense scale, all contributed to Muskoka wood-frame resorts delays. As well, the workers vanished in flames. In August needed were absent, overseas as 1923, the prestigious WaWa soldiers, from 1914 to 1918. Hotel disappeared in a blaze, C.O., who enjoyed solving claiming the lives of nine female problems, arranged for Canadian guests and staff. An inquest wartime civilian prisoners, With a full-regalia show to enchant Bigwin guests (and C.O. Shaw, at right), recommended future resorts internationally celebrated First Nation bass-baritone Os-Ke-Non-Ton knew how interned by Ottawa as “enemy consist of multiple buildings to impress audiences in London, New York and Lake of Bays. aliens” because they’d earlier rather than a single rambling immigrated from a now belligerent nation, to success and doubters can be won over. structure, the typical Muskoka pattern. continue the project on Bigwin (their tents Those Toronto papers? Joseph Atkinson, Across the lake Bigwin Inn’s many and cookstove in a wired-fenced compound) owner of the Star, began coming to Bigwin buildings, linked by covered walkways, not – just as others had been “paroled” from Inn with his entourage in 1922 and, for the only made it distinctly different – a colony of northern Ontario’s Kapuskasing concentration rest of his life (to 1948), was one of Bigwin’s special venues having their individual camp to work in one of Bracebridge’s biggest boosters and best customers. The character – but showed Shaw, who’d do undermanned tanneries. There were always sceptical locals? Muskokans delighted to get anything to prevent fire, had already adopted setbacks: the war over, men came home to the thousands of paycheques and paid that idea about many separate buildings part resume work, but spread Spanish Flu that invoices flowing from Miss Collins, Shaw’s of his plan – a full decade before the coroner’s killed several hundred Muskokans, including capable long-time secretary, while basking in recommendation. And though C.O. didn’t stone masons working on Bigwin Inn. the glow of celebrated notables in their midst. play golf, he liked how the fairways of Bigwin’s Undeterred, C.O. relied on the American Concrete and stone buildings cost far more 18-hole course, in addition to satisfying playbook: get ’er done, open the chequebook than the traditional wood-frame construction guests, served as firebreaks on the heavily and play hard, because nothing succeeds like of Muskoka resorts. But they had substance wooded island.
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42 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Shaw’s fulsome embrace of Indigenous realities began with the resort name honouring Chippewa Chief Bigwin, whose traditional Muskoka lands these were. It included Indian motifs worked into the resort’s woodwork and poured concrete designs, Bigwin Inn’s wigwamcanoe-and-island logo on place settings and stationery, and cultural activities featuring internationally celebrated First Nation bassbaritone singer Os-Ke-Non-Ton. It was not happenstance that Bigwin Inn’s emergence coincided with the Group of Seven simultaneously projecting an authentic Canadian atmosphere through refreshingly bold artistic expression in the enduring spirit of Tom Thomson who’d operated from Huntsville when painting in Algonquin Park. Shaw and Wilson designed a contributing element to the exhilarating cultural mood astir in Canada. Charles Orlando Shaw stood apart from Muskokans, even as he became central to them and the entire community. He was an American with zeal, know-how and unflinching determination. He sought to bring out the best in people. He kept an eye out for talent and, when finding it, encouraged its fullest development. He refused to compromise on quality in whatever of the many realms he engaged – tanning leather, making music, providing transportation services or creating resort accommodation. Bigwin Inn appeared in the Canadian wilderness as North America’s pre-eminent summer resort and flourished for more than half a century, then fell silent, its unique structures haunting remnants of a now lost epoch. Steamships gave way to motorboats, resort hotels to cottages, and elegant style to casual informality. Today, Captain Fraser’s out-of-print 1942 book, edited by Muskoka steamship historian Richard Tatley, has been republished with photos as A Steamboat Captain’s History of Muskoka. Steamer Wanda III has become central to a new exhibit hall at Muskoka Discovery Centre in Gravenhurst and, converted for present standards, again takes vacationers on cruises. Bigwin Island, vault of Indigenous and Bigwin Inn heritage, continues as a draw with contemporary mixtures of Muskoka seasonal vacationing. And vacationland Muskoka retains its unique cache.
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Article by Meghan Smith / Photography by Tomasz Szumski
D
og sledding may not be the first winter sport to come to mind. However, it is quintessentially Canadian. Before snowmobiles, dogs aided in the delivery of mail, food, equipment and other supplies to communities cut off from traditional modes of transport in the winter months. Across Canada, northern Canada in particular, winters can be classified as harsh with significant snowfalls, icy conditions and frigid temperatures. While technology may have reduced the impact of snowstorms overall, daily functions can quickly come to a halt when winter weather becomes a factor. The reality of a difficult winter climate is that individuals and businesses must adapt. No matter the conditions, there are many services that continue to be expected by the community. A hardy team of Siberian Huskies can move quickly, over long distances and through rugged terrain.
44 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
The Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run is a tribute to the energy, determination and hardiness of the breed. Huskies are a breed known for their personality, their beauty and their ability to run. Intelligent and independent, huskies are known to develop special bonds with their people. Their friendly, outgoing nature, along with their playful mischievousness, makes them more than just a pet. Huskies are a member of the family. Elsie Chadwick was the archivist for the Siberian Husky Club of Canada and an enthusiast about all things Siberian Husky. Although she was never much into racing herself,
Above: Crowds gather in Humphrey Village at the starting point of the annual Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run. Right: In the tradition of past mail runs, participants carry a bag of mail that will be postmarked by postal officials in the Village of Rosseau.
Chadwick took trips to Alaska, visited museums and kennels, chronicled pedigrees, wrote articles on the history of the breed and helped to promote dog rescue and adoption. “Elsie came up with the idea of the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run at her cottage near Humphrey,” shares Colleen Heibein, musher and Carling Township resident. “She wanted to have a recreational Siberian Husky dogsledding event that recognized the past tradition of teams of dogs pulling sleds loaded with the mail and she wanted to showcase the Siberian Husky breed.” Heibein is a retired teacher who has owned huskies of her own since 1982. She clearly recognized the breed’s need for activity and thanks Jack London’s stories and the tales of Sergeant Preston of the Yukon for even knowing that dogsledding might be a good option. “Since I knew nothing about the sport and had no equipment, I joined The Siberian Husky Club of Canada,” says Heibein. “I went to my first dogsled race, started talking to more knowledgeable people, bought my own sled and got hooked
Teams of dogs come from across North America to take part in the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run.
on the sport of dogsledding.” Heibein’s 13 Siberian Huskies live at their kennel, Rockrunner, and participate in events, competitive and recreational, all around the province. However, the event Heibein most wanted to attend was by invitation only – the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run. “Finally, in the year 1999, I was invited to participate,” shares Heibein. Unfortunately, Heibein was injured just before the event and had to withdraw. The event’s pioneer, Chadwick, held Heibein’s spot for the next year, giving Heibein plenty of time to mend and participate in the famed mail run as a recovery goal. “This event is one of the few remaining mail runs in the world,” explains Heibein. “The fact that organizers have found a way to run it continuously for the past 36 years, no matter the weather, makes it a unique winter event of any kind.” While it is not the grueling ordeal of the famed Iditarod, the sights and sounds of the event harken back to times when humans relied on their own ingenuity and their partnership with animals to travel and even
to survive. Dogs have their own well-earned reputation as man’s best friend and a musher’s connection with his or her dog sled team goes beyond that. The mail run is a community fundraising event, bringing spectators from near and far to enjoy the pancake breakfast, watch the spectacle, meet the dogs and mushers, and even purchase letters. The day includes activities for children and plenty of photo opportunities with the friendly teams of huskies. Since the event’s inception in 1985, special letters are gathered specifically for the event, loaded onto the participating sleds and hauled by dog teams from Humphrey to the Rosseau post office. The run is a beautiful 18-kilometre trip along the roads, lakes, swamps and bush trails of Seguin Township. The teams of Siberian Huskies carry their bags of mail to the Postmistress or Postmaster in Rosseau, who later hand stamps all the mail and then prepares the letters to go to destinations around the world by regular mail. The specially designed letters that arrive via sled, or “sledvelopes” as they’ve come to
Hospice Muskoka
Apart but Not Alone With special thanks to United Way Simcoe Muskoka, Hospice Muskoka is pleased to offer a ten part ZOOM series with virtual interactive sessions intended to explore the stress and anxiety or loss brought on or enhanced by COVID-19 and find tools that will lead to emotional well-being, building trust and hope, healing and resiliency. Facilitated by Elke Scholz, Masters in Expressive Arts Therapy, Coaching, Consulting and Education; certified EMDR therapist Source: pixabay
SESSION DATES: Tuesdays, November 3 – December 1, 2020 Tuesdays, January 12 – February 9, 2021 A full outline of the topics will be posted on Hospice Muskoka website www.hospicemuskoka.com. Participants must register for any/all sessions. Tablets are available to loan for participants who do not have internet or equipment for virtual meetings
For more information call 705-646-1697 w w w . h o s p ice mu s k o k a . co m 46 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
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Crowds line the road at the start of the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run in Humphrey Village.
Right: Spectators meet the dogs and their handlers at the Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run. Below right: Huskies are a breed known for their personality, their beauty and their ability to run. They develop special bonds with their people. be known, have become a sought-after keepsake and collectible for children and adults alike. In recent years, Canada Post has even issued specialized stamps to commemorate the event. People from all over the world attend and participate in the annual sled dog run, for the experience and for their very own “sledvelope.” “This is a historical event and we want to continue to honour the tradition,” explains J.J. Blower, communications and program co-ordinator for Seguin Township. “However, at this point, we don’t know what that looks like for 2021. There are a number of challenges to consider and the planning group is working on that.” The COVID-19 pandemic has significantly changed the world and the annual Seguin Sled Dog Mail Run is no
exception. Planning is currently underway for the 2021 event, but those plans may change as the event draws closer. “Public crowds are certainly one consideration and a number of our usual mushers are residents of the United
States,” says Blower. “Those are factors to consider. We need to keep everyone safe and keep the tradition alive.” “Elsie Chadwick had a great idea and I am so glad the Township of Seguin values the event enough to run it every year,” shares Heibein. “And I’m so glad for all the volunteers that donate their time at the event.” No matter how the event plays out in 2021, the tradition will continue in a format safe for everyone involved. Much like the incredible dog and musher teams of northern Canada, the annual Seguin Dog Sled Mail Run will continue on, no matter what obstacles there are to overcome.
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 47
Photograph: Town of Gravenhurst
Whats Happened
Unused since 1994, the former Muskoka Regional Centre property on Lake Muskoka now looks poised to sell in the upcoming months.
Muskoka Regional Centre talks heating up The lengthy saga of the former Muskoka Regional Centre is set for a new chapter. Located in Gravenhurst, the 74-acre property sits on a piece of prime real estate along the Lake Muskoka shoreline. The property was originally opened as the Muskoka Cottage Sanatorium in 1897. In 1960, the Province of Ontario transitioned the site to a housing and care facility for developmentally challenged individuals before it ultimately closed in 1994. It has stood vacant ever since. Recently, the property was nearly sold to Maple Leaf Education System but the deal ultimately broke down in June of 2019. The property was set to go on the open market but following meetings between Premier Doug Ford and Muskoka representatives, including Gravenhurst Mayor Paul Kelly, there was a delay in taking action. “The wheels have been turning non-stop,” says Kelly. “We had several parties that were very, very interested pre-COVID and three or four of those parties are still interested.” In October, the province will put out a marketing brochure to any interested parties
48 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
and Kelly says they hope to have a proponent identified in the next six months. According to Kelly, the Town wants the property used for two primary purposes: institutional uses such as health care and education and the creation of permanent full-time jobs. “We don’t want this property on the open market. We don’t want to see it become a housing subdivision or a resort,” he says. “All of the parties clearly know what we’re looking for...and that includes public access.” Kelly says he isn’t sure how much the asking price will be, but the buyer will need to set aside somewhere between $4 to 6 million to clear the existing unusable buildings off the property.
Bala dealing with loss of events Over the past 35 years, it’s estimated that the Bala Cranberry Festival has drawn more than 500,000 people into the small community of Bala. Unfortunately, COVID-19 has forced event organizers to push the pause button on the 2020 edition. The Trek to Bethlehem, another hugely popular Bala event, has also been cancelled out of an abundance of caution. “After much deliberation and discussions
with our board of directors, it is with a heavy and sad heart that we inform everyone that the Bala Cranberry Festival weekend event will not be held in 2020,” cranberry festival organizers said in a recent statement. Nonetheless, the cranberry harvest goes on and guests are invited to visit Muskoka Lakes Farm & Winery to check it out for themselves. “We’ve been working extremely hard to meet Ontario’s public health mandate,” says Leslie Commandant of the farm and winery. “We’re really looking forward to this harvest season. It’s one of our favourite times of the year.” The farm offers wagon tours, wine tasting, a licensed patio, hiking trails and the popular cranberry plunge. Commandant says all of those activities are still a go but it’s best to visit their website at cranberry.ca to view the latest updates. Reservations are required for some of the activities. Organizer for the Trek to Bethlehem said they simply can’t accommodate the provincial guidelines for event size and safety. They’re optimistic the trek can return in 2021.
Blue Green Algae incidents up in 2020 The Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks is keeping a close eye on the blue-green algae situation in Muskoka In September, residents near Boyd’s Bay on Lake Muskoka were cautioned about a confirmed blue-green algae bloom. The algal bloom was the seventh of the year reported in Muskoka. “The ministry takes reports of potential blue-green algal blooms very seriously,” says ministry spokesperson Gary Wheeler. “The number of confirmed blue-green algal blooms is marginally higher this year. In 2019, there were six confirmed lakes with blue-green algal blooms in the District of Muskoka and two lakes in Simcoe County.”
Couple donates $2 million to Bracebridge hospital An unprecedented show of generosity is making things a little easier at South Muskoka Memorial Hospital in Bracebridge. In September, the South Muskoka Hospital Foundation announced they have received the largest single donation from a living donor in their history. That gift came courtesy of a $2 million donation from Bary and Brenda Gray of Gravenhurst. “Quality health care and a well-equipped hospital are so important to a community,” says Brenda. “We feel very fortunate to be in the position to show our gratitude in this way.” The donation will be used to renovate and purchase new ultrasound and radiology equipment for the diagnostic imaging department at South Muskoka Memorial Hospital. The hospital plans to recognize the Grays by renaming the imaging department the Bary and Brenda Gray Imaging Department.
Photograph: Brandon Scott
Muskoka experienced its seventh blue-green algae bloom of 2020 recently. The latest bloom occurred on Boyd's Bay in Lake Muskoka. Bary and Brenda built a home in Gravenhurst in 2009 and used it seasonally for 10 years. In 2019, they sold their home in Aurora and moved to Gravenhurst year-round. The convincing factor that inspired them to make their donation was when Bary twice required visits to the emergency department. The Grays say they were overwhelmed by the excellence of the care and attention he received.
Photograph: South Muskoka Hospital Foundation
Both Simcoe and Muskoka are reporting one additional algal bloom for this year over 2019. Wheeler said that due to a large number of variables (annual weather patterns, temperature, storms, site-specific weather and physical conditions), it’s impossible to predict the number of blooms that will occur in a given year. However, the ministry typically responds to about 50 to 70 confirmed blue-green algal blooms per year across Ontario. He says that so far in 2020 there have been 60 confirmed blue-green algal blooms reported to the ministry. Blue-green algae (also called cyanobacteria) are naturally occurring microscopic organisms that can produce “blooms” in lakes when environmental conditions are favourable, including sufficient levels of nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen, warm water temperatures and calm weather conditions. Some blooms of blue-green algae produce toxins, known as cyanotoxins, that have the potential to harm humans and animals.
Bary and Brenda Gray of Gravenhurst recently donated $2 million to the South Muskoka Hospital Foundation.
“I am now under the excellent care of Dr. Cipriani,” says Bary. “Along with the rest of the healthcare team at the hospital, we really feel we couldn’t be in better hands.”
Swing Sandfield bridge under repair The District of Muskoka has doubled back on plans to close the Port Sandfield bridge for a full two weeks, opting instead to do the work at night. Original plans had called for a full closure of the roadway from Oct. 26 to Nov. 9 with a lengthy detour in place. The detour will still be used during the construction period from Sept. 30 to Nov. 9 from 9 p.m. to 5:30 a.m. Sundays to Thursdays, and 11 p.m. to 6:30 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The closure is part of scheduled maintenance on the swing bridge. The structure is actually the fourth version of the bridge in Port Sandfield, which was originally built in 1876. The initial version was built to accommodate the steamships traversing the canal below and towered some 40 feet in the air. A more practical wooden swing bridge was built in 1897. That was replaced by a metal swing bridge 1924 which stood for most of the 20th century until it was replaced by the current bridge in 1998.
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 49
The art of the small gathering
Food and décor for seasonal entertaining Article by Karen Wehrstein / Photography by Tomasz Szumski With the future of a world pandemic still uncertain, we all might have to scale back our Christmas entertaining plans this year, hosting more intimate groups of our nearest and dearest. But that doesn’t mean they can’t be memorable events. As part of planning Christmas events, we’re going to go outside our purely culinary bubble to include setting and décor as part of this feature. The setting can be at home, of course, or in your own private cottage at an establishment such as Patterson Kaye Resort, which is open year-round and offers the full range from a two-person hotel-style
Executive chef Don Hutchinson’s duck recipe adds the flavours of three species of fruit plus thyme for a complex and delicious sweetening of the tender, juicy meat.
50 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
cabin to a five-bedroom cottage that has its own kitchen. Normally, the resort’s restaurant, Seasons, offers a big Christmas buffet dinner, explains operations assistant Jessica Moseley – but not this year, for obvious reasons. “We’re looking at a familystyle buffet for their own table,” she says. “You get the same vibe, it’s more communal.” Have it brought to your Patterson Kaye cottage as if it were take-out, which the resort is also doing this year – why not?
As it turned out Patterson Kaye and Seasons, did not close for the summer. “It was one of the busiest years for us,” Moseley said. “People want to do something; they deserve to do something. You still have to be a family in these times.” So now, let’s talk food, and the traditional turkey – nah, you already know how to do that. How about something a little different, like roast duck, as made by Seasons executive chef Don Hutchinson? Hutchinson grew up in Richmond Hill, got his culinary education at George Brown College in Toronto and then apprenticed in CP Hotels from coast to coast, including the Chateau Frontenac, the Royal York, Deerhurst Resort, and inns in Banff and Lake Louise. After a stint in Ontario, he
Roast Duck
Don Hutchison, Patterson Kaye Resort and Seasons
Ingredients 1 duck, washed inside and out 3-4 tart apples (e.g, Empire or Granny Smith), cored and quartered 1 medium-size onion, cut into 8 pieces 1 orange, peeled and cut into quarters Salt and pepper 1 tsp minced garlic Fresh thyme sprigs (about 5) 2 oz brandy ½ cup apricot jam 2 cups duck or chicken stock 2 Tbsp flour
Method • Poke holes or score the skin of the duck to render the fat. Season well with salt and pepper inside and out. • Mix the apples, orange, onion, garlic and thyme (except 1 tsp thyme leaves finely chopped) with ½ oz brandy. Stuff the duck’s cavity with this mixture. • Place in a preheated oven (350°F) in a roasting pan. After 20 minutes, reduce heat to 300°F and continue cooking for about an hour. • Mix the rest of the brandy with the jam and baste the duck with it. Baste about every 20 minutes. Cook duck until its internal temperature reaches 165°F.
travelled to Australia and worked for a New Zealand caterer for a year, then returned to Toronto to work for other caterers. In 2000, he moved to Muskoka with his children, working first at Inn on the Falls in
• Remove from the oven and set on a plate to rest for 10 minutes. • Strain about 2 Tbsp of fat from the roasting pan into a pot. Add 2 Tbsp of flour and mix into a toothpaste-like consistency. Heat on the stove, stirring constantly until it starts to brown. Slowly and carefully start adding the stock until it reaches a velouté consistency: dip a wooden spoon in the sauce and run a finger across the back of it; if it slowly drips back together, it is the right consistency. • Season velouté with salt and pepper. Add the leftover1 tsp of chopped thyme. • Duck is ready to carve and your velouté is ready to serve and be enjoyed by your guests!
Chef ’s tips “Scoring or poking the duck’s skin, especially around the legs, is very important because it renders out the fat,” Hutchison advises. Pierce just through the skin, not into the meat. For roasting, you may want to put some sliced apples under the duck to stop it from sticking to the pan. If you haven’t tried frying potatoes in duck fat with a little salt and pepper, you must. When ordering this dish from Seasons, provide 24 hours’ notice.
Bracebridge (“you hear footprints up the stairs, but never see the ghost”). After about eight years at Shamrock Lodge, he started his own food truck and catering business, Muskoka’s Menu, and has worked at
Lena Patten, owner of Hilltop Interiors in Rosseau, delights in the tradition of decorating for Christmas celebrating. Seasons for three winters. Four years ago in Barrie, he met, in his words, “the girl of my dreams,” Debbie Urbanski. “I’m going to ask her to marry me,” he says, “right about now.” (Not to worry; Ms. Urbanski has been informed in a timely fashion.) Hutchinson’s duck recipe adds the flavours of three species of fruit plus thyme for a complex and delicious sweetening of the tender, juicy meat. “Duck has a lot of flavour to begin with,” he advises, “so you don’t want to overpower it with spices.” Also, in keeping with his philosophy of sticking to basics and simplicity, the bird is accompanied with an assortment of al dente vegetables seasoned only lightly with salt and pepper, and melt-in-your-mouth potatoes. Now let us take an interlude concerning décor, with the knowledgeable and delightful Lena Patten, owner of Hilltop Interiors in Rosseau, now celebrating its 20th anniversary. “Christmas is my favourite time of year,
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 51
Sausage & Potato Hand-Held Pie
Randy Spencer, Spencer’s Catering & Culinary Creations
Ingredients
“A cherished Christmas is all about the tasty treats and the timeless décor. It’s a sensory experience,” says Lena Patten. and I love Christmas Eve,” Patten enthuses. Of Lithuanian extraction, she recalls her family sharing a 12-course meal every Dec. 24, when celebrations officially began. Her father would place hay under the tablecloth as a reminder of the manger, a tradition she continues. “It’s the reveal, it’s just magical, and my family was all about that.” They still are; her husband and two grown sons now revel in it as much as she does. Patten grew up in Toronto and went to university in Guelph, from where she and a friend would prowl the interior-decorating shops of the region every other weekend, planning to open such a shop together someday. However, Patten went into marketing upon her return to the big city, before moving with her husband to Muskoka, where both had enjoyed their respective family cottages while growing up. After working for about four years in another shop, she decided to start her own business. In a moment of synchronicity, the antique building in central Rosseau became available, and Hilltop Interiors was born. “A cherished Christmas is all about the tasty treats and the timeless décor,” Patten says. “It’s a sensory experience. The beautiful smells, the evergreens, the candles, having
the fire going... great music, good wine and good friends.” At the heart of it all is the table, making a beautiful table setting a must. “It doesn’t have to be too elaborate,” she says. “It’s those little special pieces that create that warm and inviting atmosphere. And it’s so much easier to do when you’re doing smaller gatherings with a smaller table.” Nature is a reliable inspiration for Patten. “We live in a great area where you can go outside and clip cedar boughs, hemlock branches, pinecones,” she says. “Hemlock has a beautiful silvery green colour on the underside. I always like white birch branches to go with it.” Here’s a bit of twist you might not think of for Christmas: red roses. “There’s nothing like deep red roses with pine boughs. My mother used to do that.” Another cool idea for the table: create a winter wilderness or Christmas scene on a charcuterie board for the initial party reveal. “Then you can easily remove it when you bring in the food,” Patten explains. “Every year, change it around, change the colours, put a snowman on it: that’s the beauty of the board, it’s whatever.” Speaking of colours: “Traditionally people like to see the red and green, which is cheery
Bonus Appetizer Recipe: Bacon-Wrapped Dates Soak dates in spiced rum overnight. Wrap them in slices of bacon (if they’re small, squish two together), skewer them and bake for about 8 minutes at 350°F convection.
52 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Use your favourite pie-dough recipe, or use store-bought 4” pie shells and homemade dough for pie top cover. 1 lb. ground pork 1 lb. sausage meat from butcher 1½ cup sliced onions 1 Tbsp finely-chopped garlic 1 lb. peeled potatoes thinly sliced and lightly cooked in salted boiling water (mini potatoes are perfect for handheld pies) 1 tsp dry thyme leaves 2½ cups beef stock 3 Tbsp flour 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce Salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste 1 egg, beaten
Method:
• Cook meat in saucepan on medium heat. Drain all but a few tablespoons of fat • Add sliced onions and garlic, brown for 5-6 minutes on high heat, stirring so onions do not burn. Turn heat to medium. • Add thyme, Worcestershire sauce and flour, mix in. • Stir in beef stock. Cook for 5 minutes. Fold in potatoes, season with salt and pepper to taste. • Let cool in fridge for 45 minutes. • Fill pie shell and cover, crimp and brush with beaten egg. • Bake for 20-30 minutes at 375°F till golden-brown. Makes 20 four-inch or 32 muffin-sized handheld pies.
Chef ’s tips:
Try them with HP Sauce. Enjoy reheated pie with fried eggs and HP Sauce at breakfast.
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“Don’t be afraid to try something different,” is part of Randy Spencer’s food philosophy. The longtime restaurateur and now caterer shares some of his recipes for Christmas entertaining. and bright and fun. It’s easy to pull from your own in-house items,” Patten says. “But nothing is mandatory.” Well, maybe one thing: “The underlying colour that you always have is some sort of green, whether light or dark. Green is what really pulls it all together, helps bridge all the colours.” Perhaps in the dead of winter we want to be reminded of foliage, same as we want to be reminded of light during the longest nights. Every late November, Patten and her staff decorate the store to the nines for its weekend-long Christmas Open House, and people come from all over for decorative inspiration, not to mention to buy frosted glasses, reindeer candle-holders, Christmasthemed placemats, napkins and rings, pinecone-themed cutlery, unscented candles (“they don’t interfere with the lovely smells of the food”) and much more. Because grey was trending last year, she featured Ellen DeGeneres dishware by Royal Doulton, in warm greys. Grey or taupe works well with metallic accents whether they be silver or gold-themed. The key: be creative! Like plaid? Make it the theme. “Think about your favourite colour, and build your table around it. Or, what colour is trending? Blue seems to be popular this year. Watch for a blue-themed...” Lena Patten cuts herself off there, segueing deftly into an invitation to this year’s Open House, happening Nov. 20-22. “We have a sale, we serve appetizers, we have a raffle for cool prizes donated by our suppliers.” If you are one of her diehard Christmas followers, or at least like-minded, you’ll start preparing
right after Remembrance Day. To add appetizers and dessert to our delicious entrée, let’s consult with Randy Spencer, best known as the former owner, for 19 years, of Spencer’s Tall Trees restaurant in Huntsville, and now owner of Spencer’s Catering & Culinary Creations. Born near Noranda, Quebec, he grew up in Toronto, received his culinary education at George Brown College, worked at a restaurant in Hamilton for a while, then travelled the world including Europe, Jamaica and the Bahamas, where he met his wife Karen. In Muskoka, he worked at Hidden Valley Resort and Grandview before purchasing Tall Trees in 2000. As a restauranteur rather than purely a chef, Spencer says, “you have to check your ego at the door; if something isn’t working, don’t kick a dead horse.” Friendliness is crucial, too; clients of Tall Trees still greet him on the street. Now, Spencer says, “We’re in the next phase of our life. This year, we’ve done 10 per cent of what we normally do in catering.” Often, he will go masked into a cottage kitchen, set up the food and leave. “Even in forced semi-retirement now, I cook every day anyway.” One exercise of his craft he has resolutely not quit is volunteering one day at the Huntsville food bank, The Table, and providing quality food for Hospice Huntsville, after being deeply moved by the quality of treatment provided there for a dying friend. Just hearing, for instance, “My father smiled” is satisfaction enough for Spencer.
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Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 53
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Hand-held pies are all the rage in Australia and New Zealand, he says, available everywhere in stores, food trucks, etc. Through use of sausage meat, the recipe becomes versatile, lending itself to spicy, farmers’, Mennonite, or what-have-you. He ran the sausage and potato version past Keely Schierl, former owner of The Butcher’s Daughter in Huntsville, to perfect it. It is a rich, juicy, meaty treat inside flaky pastry, combining the heartiest of tastes and textures. Our bonus appetizer is – are you ready for this? – bacon-wrapped dates. Dates were on sale and Karen had bought too many. They had already tried bacon-wrapped water chestnuts, scallops and chicken livers, so why not? “Don’t be afraid to try something different,” is part of Spencer’s food philosophy. I can’t quite describe the combination of these flavours, though “rich as heck” goes without saying; you just have to try them. Spencer’s dessert, the chocolate bombe, is, well, the bomb. Right away I tasted the secret ingredient that tangs up the sweetness in both the crunchy edges and the deliciously gooey inside, wondered what it was and couldn’t quite place it. Some final wisdom from one of Huntsville’s legendary restauranteurs: “Food isn’t always about taste. It’s about the company, the ambience, the thrill of the moment and where you are… you’re there.” Now that the Fall Winter issue of Unique Muskoka has arrived, it is time for Cottage Country Cuisine to go into hibernation until spring 2021. Have a wonderful holiday season, stay healthy and happy and, as always: bon appétit!
Chocolate Bombes with Eggnog Crème Anglaise Bombes:
Ingredients:
¾ cup butter 9 oz. chocolate (good quality, e.g. Coco Barry or Callebaut) 1 tsp orange zest* 1 cup brown sugar 3 eggs 1 tsp vanilla 1 cup all-purpose flour
Method:
• Melt butter and chocolate in double boiler (so as not to scorch). • Whisk in brown sugar. • Remove from heat. Whisk in eggs, zest and vanilla. Fold in flour. • Portion into greased non-stick 6 x 4oz. muffin pan. • Bake at 350° F convection for 10-12 minutes. • Let cool 5 minutes, then turn out from pan gently onto wire rack. *The secret ingredient - Crème Anglaise
Ingredients:
3 cups eggnog 10 egg yolks 1 cup white sugar ¼ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp vanilla 2 Tbsp cornstarch
Method:
• Heat eggnog (do not boil). • Create cornstarch slurry by adding a maximum of 1 Tbsp water to the 2 Tbsp cornstarch until it liquefies. • In a stainless-steel bowl, mix the sugar with yolks, vanilla and cinnamon. • Place bowl over a pot of simmering water. Whisk the mixture as it slowly warms. Add the eggnog as you are whisking. When the mixture starts to thicken, whisk in the cornstarch slurry slowly. Once mixture thickens, remove from stove. • Cool in fridge, lightly covered with plastic wrap, or serve warm. Both ways are great.
Chef ’s Tip:
You can add a bright red drizzle for holiday pizzazz by mixing and cooking macerated cranberries with sugar and cornstarch, or thinning some cranberry jelly. Apply artistically with a squeeze bottle to crème anglaise spread on plate with chocolate bombes.
Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 55
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Fall/Winter 2020 UNIQUE MUSKOKA 59
Muskoka Moments
Shooting beautiful Muskoka For 30 years now, I have been traipsing all around Muskoka in search of the ultimate photographic background. On one hand, that should be a pretty easy search, as almost every location in Muskoka provides an ultimate vista of rocks, trees and water. However, you may be surprised to realize how many factors need to be taken into account. Especially if you are going to add people into the mix in order to create a treasured family portrait. I have many favourites for a variety of reasons – Wilson’s Fall in Bracebridge for one. I have used the falls and river as a backdrop for years. It is a fantastic location because you can shoot there in the morning on one side and in the afternoon on the other. The drawback I discovered this summer is that Wilson’s Falls is no longer Bracebridge’s best kept secret. In the past I have suggested that location to local families, who were puzzled as to its whereabouts. But this summer, when I strode confidently into my typical shooting area, I was shocked at the number of people lounging on the rocks and swimming in the rapids. Just below the falls is another treasured location, Bass Rock. With its smooth bare rock and the river behind, it is a gorgeous setting. It is also deceiving. I was once photographing a couple for their engagement session in early May. I had them set up on one point and I just needed to change my angle a little. I stepped onto what I believed was a sand covered rock, which in fact turned out to be a slime covered rock. My couple stared wide eyed as I slid into waist deep water with my camera held over my head. The gentleman graciously tried to help but stepped on the same slime covered rock and slid past me. We both stood in the chilly water laughing
60 UNIQUE MUSKOKA Fall/Winter 2020
Photographs: Heather Douglas
By Heather Douglas
until the tears rolled down our cheeks. Thankfully, my bride-to-be had more sense than to step on the offending rock and she took my camera as her fiancé and I struggled out of the water. Another favourite is the Port Sydney rapids. Now, the challenge there is that location has never been a secret and there are often crowds of people. It is also only ideal to photograph in the morning or the evening. Just to the south of the Port Sydney Falls is Indian Landing with the famous most photographed tree in the world, the Giving Tree. Drawbacks, again, include shooting around people and getting the lighting just right. High Falls is an absolutely spectacular backdrop, but only for the nimble and fearless! It does provide a bit of a challenge to access. And again, it is only good lighting in the morning. Hidden in the woods beside High Falls is what I have always called Little High Falls. Again, a bit of a challenge to access and a bridge was built over the top portion, which is good for access, bad for disturbing the pristine wilderness.
Ragged Falls just outside of Algonquin Park is a wonderful place to visit, but very hard to photograph a family, as there is no really clear access to pose people and get the waterfalls in the background. The Oxtongue Rapids is another fabulous location but poses the challenge of getting there. It is along Highway 60 and then down a rugged back road. Spectacular upon arrival though. I would like to include the Bala Falls, but the creation of the dam has altered that location forever. On one hand, the many brides and families I captured there really will have an irreplaceable image. The locks in Port Carling have been among my backdrops as has the wharf in Gravenhurst with the iconic Segwun and Wenonah in the background. I also have the privilege of photographing on my clients property throughout Muskoka and there are some incredible private locations. I have also parked on the side of the road and photographed in a ditch as the view has taken my breath away. As the leaves change colour presenting us with one of the most incredible displays in the world, wherever you are, take a photo and cherish the incredible home we call Muskoka.
Heather Douglas has been photographing in Muskoka for 30 years. Her career began in 1990 working as a photojournalist for The Muskoka Sun. In 1996, she began her career as a portrait photographer specializing in wedding and family portraiture. She resides in Huntsville with her husband and their two teenage children. Her career now focuses primarily on family portraiture and she is a familiar face behind the camera at many sporting leagues, dance schools and events in Muskoka.
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