Press RELEASE > les arts décoratifs
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1. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2006, © Mathieu Ridelle
DRIES VAN NOTEN INSPIRATIONS
March 1st to August 31st 2014
PRESS CONTACTS
Marie-Laure MOREAU Isabelle MENDOZA Barneys New York, US-based luxury retailer, will serve as a sponsor for the exhibition along with Bonaveri
PHONE. : +33 01 44 55 58 78 FAX : +33 01 44 55 57 93 presse@lesartsdecoratifs.fr www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
press release > DRIES VAN NOTEN
From March 1st to August 31st 2014, the work of the Belgian fashion designer, Dries Van Noten, is featured at the musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. This is the very first exhibition devoted to the artist’s work. As Dries Van Noten takes us on an intimate journey into his artistic universe, he reveals the singularity of his creative process which he illustrates with his various and numerous sources of inspiration. This event is an eye opening experience, where Dries Van Noten’s men’s and women’s collections are put together with iconic pieces from the museum’s fashion and textile collection. The show also includes photographs and videos, film clips, musical references, as well as artworks by renowned artists, from public and private collections, that have triggered the designer’s imagination throughout his life and career.
Initiated into the world of textiles by his parents who were both cloth retailers, Dries Van Noten studied fashion design at the Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where he gratuated in 1981. In 1986, while he was supported by Christine Mathys
and
Patrick
created
his
own
Vangheluwe,
independent
he
brand
and showed his first men’s collection in London the same year with the informal group of young avant-garde Belgian designers known as the ‘Antwerp Six’, that included Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee. Dries
Van
aesthetic
Noten
developped
vocabulary
by
his
combining
fashion design with visual arts from different to
periods,
foreign
memories
and
cultures of
by
as
intimate
referring
well
as
to
experiences.
2. Dries Van Noten, 50th show, Spring/Summer 2005 © Marleen Daniels
Dries Van Noten’s collections reflect his fantasies and dreams of exotic places stemming from his imagination, while also drawing upon the ethnic and folk traditions of India, China, Africa and Mexico. These ideas contribute to his choices of refined weaves and fabrics that constitute the printed patterns used in his productions of the 2010 Women’s Spring-Summer Collection and the 2014 Spring-Summer Collection. His works are also directly influenced by masterpieces from the field of art history. Women’s
In
effect,
the
entire
Autumn-Winter
2009
collection
stems from paintings by Francis Bacon, whereas
the
Men’s
Spring-Summer
Collection of that same year is based on a single picture by Elizabeth Peyton, Democrats are More Beautiful (2001). Dries Van Noten’s creative references can also be subtle and therefore more intimate and suggestive.
3. ‘Bar’ suit, silk taffetas, Christian Dior, 1947 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs, © Jean Tholance
4. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2009 © Rights reserved
press release > DRIES VAN NOTEN
5. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2008 © Rights reserved
6. Long silk dress, Callot Sœurs, circa 1927 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs, © Jean Tholance
In effect, a colour in particular may
Pol Bury in the Palais Royal provided the
inspire him, as well as emotions and
backdrop for the 2009 Women’s Spring-
atmospheres
:
power
Summer show, and the 50th show in
of
used
Rothko’s
September 2004 was staged around a
painting, the particularity of the blue
gigantic banquet. For this exhibition,
light reflected in a grotto in Capri, or
Dries Van Noten has brought together
the
butterfly,
elements which point to other sources
can be relevant starting points for a
of inspiration, such as the Renaissance
the
red
fragility
the
chromatic in
evoked
Mark
by
a
collection. In other words, Dries Van
‘chambers
Noten’s sources of inspiration transcend
cabinets’ in which collectors amassed
the hierarchy of the arts, as vernacular
memorabilia and souvenirs. Each piece
culture
in
is exposed with various items that seem
influences. His designs rest upon these
hard to grasp at first sight but become
contrasts, as duality is another constant
progressively legible as a reflection of his
hallmark of his stylistic vocabulary. He
creative process. His choice to organize
often uses what defines the differences
his work in a particular way, results
between genders to tackle the limits of
from a skilful montage in the museum
dress codes : men’s garments are made
space. By associating the pieces with
with fabrics regarded as feminine such
shared similarities, he illustrates the
as lace, while masculine cuts are used in
main themes and characteristics of his
the women’s collections. The refinement
production from the early 1980s.
that the couturier brings to each of his
The exhibition brings together all the
works culminates in his fashion shows,
artistic fields with an assemblage of
several of which have been among the
historical, pictorial, ethnic, cinematic,
most
musical
is
for
him
memorable
in
just
as
recent
rich
decades.
of
and
wonder’
or
geographic
stressing
references.
Dries Van Noten chooses uncommon
While
locations but ones always related to
analogies
the theme of the collection, such as
Dries
Passage Brady in the Indian quarter
combines fashion design with the world
of Paris’ 10th arrondissement, for the
of decorative and fine arts, in order to
1994 Men’s Spring-Summer Collection.
illustrate the Belgian creator’s distinctive
More recently, in 2008, the fountain by
techniques and stylistic vocabulary.
Van
and
the
‘curiosity
the
Noten’s
influences,
the
contradictions work,
the
in
show
7. Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer show 2014 © Tommy Tom
press release > DRIES VAN NOTEN
Dries
Van
anonymous
Noten 19
th
has
century
selected
pieces
and
works by emblematic couturiers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior and 1980s designers, to evoke intimate subject matters such as youth, the archetype, while
ambiguity
highlighting
and his
passion, ‘signature’
themes. Thanks to exceptional loans, masterpieces by important artists such as Bronzino, Kees Van Dongen, Yves Klein, Victor Vasarely, Francis Bacon, Elizabeth Peyton and Damien Hirst are on display in each section of the show. Major films, including Stanley Kubrick’s Clockwork Orange and Jane Campion’s The Piano, are also part of the event. The exhibition is the result of Dries Van Noten’s close collaboration with the Arts Décoratifs Museum, which has prompted him to use several 19 th century textile patterns in his 2014 men’s and
8. Detail of a dress, Cortina, circa 1966 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs © Jean Tholance
9. Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer show 2009 © Patrice Stable
women’s Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collections that he unveiled in Paris in June and September 2013.
10. Embroidered leather jacket, Yves Saint Laurent, 1980-1981 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs © Jean Tholance
11. Textile detail, embroidered satin, circa 1889 Collection UFAC, Les Arts Décoratifs © Jean Tholance
12. Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer show 2014 © Tommy Tom
13. Dries Van Noten, Autumn/Winter show 2006 © Olaf Wipperfurth
renseignements key information pratiques
Curator : > Pamela Golbin, general curator of Contemporary Fashion and Textiles, Les Arts Décoratifs Exhibition design : > Jean-Dominique SECONDI, ARTER
les arts décoratifs
Bruno ROGER, Chairman Marie-Liesse Baudrez, General director Olivier GABET, Museums director Pascale de SEzE, Communication director the museums
The Arts Décoratifs museums 107 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris > phone +33 01 44 55 57 50 Metro stations : Palais-Royal, Pyramides, Tuileries Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am to 6pm (Late opening Thursday until 9pm : Temporary exhibitions and jewellery gallery only) admission > full rate : 9 € > reduced rate : 7.50 €
Publication : > Dries Van Noten French edition : Les Arts Décoratifs ; English and Dutch editions : LANNOO 320 pages, 600 illustrations, 59 €
educational and cultural services
The Educational and Cultural Department organises museum tours for adults, groups and individuals > reservations +33 01 44 55 59 26 thematic workshop-tours and guided tours related to an exhibition for 4 to 18 year-olds > reservations +33 01 44 55 59 25 lectures and panel discussions > reservations +33 01 44 55 59 75 library
The Arts Décoratifs Library 107 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris > phone +33 01 44 55 59 36 Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 6pm école camondo
266 boulevard Raspail, 75014 Paris > phone +33 01 43 35 44 28 ateliers du carrousel
Musée Nissim de Camondo 63 rue de Monceau, 75008 Paris > phone +33 01 53 89 06 40 Open Wednesday to Sunday 10am to 5.30pm Closed Monday and Tuesday admission > full rate : 7 € > reduced rate : 5 €
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The Partners’ Club brings together firms wishing to participate in promoting Les Arts Décoratifs, developing a lasting relationship with our institution and broadening their network of contacts. It acts as a laboratory for ideas and interaction between economic and cultural actors and creators. Members – at three different levels – benefit from the advantages of patrons and sponsors. > phone +33 01 44 55 58 07
les amis
Les Amis des Arts Décoratifs promote the Arts Décoratifs museums and library in France and abroad. Their support contributes to the enrichment and restoration of the museum’s collections. Members have free admission to the Arts Décoratifs museums and can participate in private visits, thematic days and cultural tours. > phone +33 01 44 55 59 78 the museum boutique
107RIVOLI art mode design paris
107 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris > phone +33 01 42 60 64 94 Open 10am to 7pm Closed Monday le restaurant the restaurant
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