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150
WINE BARS YOU NEED TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE By Jurgen Lijcops
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Introduction by Jurgen Lijcops The best wine bars are a boon to humanity in many respects. Cosy, stylish and often inspiring locales where we can meet friends and relax. An inviting ambience – the final step in a creation process both natural and fascinating – forms the perfect setting for sophisticated drinks crafted in a symbiosis between terroir and winemaker. As a sommelier with experience in a variety of restaurants and wine bars, I have always respectfully immersed myself in the collective endeavour that vineyards and winemakers embark upon to craft exceptional wine. In-depth courses, endless tastings, intense trainings, and continuous study. All are milestones on the journey taken by every professional sommelier. Relationships with gifted winemakers also serve as the basis for grasping the essence of making and serving wine. They afford insights into the finer points of the winemaking craft that cannot be gleaned from professional literature. Glimpses of the cherished, hard-won secrets of what makes some wines special and unique. This brings me to my mentor, the Flemish winemaker and pioneer Peter Colemont, owner of Clos d'Opleeuw, to whom I owe a debt of gratitude for honing and deepening my understanding of producing and assessing wines, and of the profession of sommelier. With all of that knowledge, abundant experience, and professional connections in the wine world, selecting and assessing an authentic, exciting wine list becomes so much easier. Just as the excellence of the cuisine defines the quality of a restaurant, the skilfully selected wine references signal a wine bar's ambitions. And just as a restaurant's setting, interior, comfort and service levels are the DNA of its dining experience, location, views, décor, and hospitality are the essence of a truly unique wine bar. In this book, you and I will travel the world, and visit 150 of the world’s most iconic wine bars. Stunning locales where tantalising and fascinating wine selections are served in an ambience that brings people together over an exquisite glass of wine. In vino veritas!
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OVERVIEW
AFRICA & THE MIDDLE EAST
THE AMERICAS
ABIDJAN 01
LA ROUTE DES VINS
BOGOTA p.10
19
AMMAN 02
13C BAR IN THE BACK L'APPARTEMENT
p.12
20
THE BAR AT NILE PLAZA
HALEY.HENRY
p.35
BUENOS AIRES p.13
21
CAIRO 04
p.34
BOSTON
BEIRUT 03
CAVA WINE
PAIN ET VIN
p.36
JOSÉ IGNACIO p.16
22
CAPE TOWN
SOLERA ALMACÉN DE VINOS Y TAPAS
05
CULTURE
p.17
06
LEO’S
p.18
07
PUBLIK WINE BAR
p.19
DUBAI
p.37
LA PAZ 23
HAY PAN
p.38
LIMA 24
CORDIAL
p.39
LOS ANGELES
08
THE AGENCY DUBAI
p.20
09
CAVE DUBAI
p.21
25
BAR COVELL
p.40
10
GRAPESKIN
p.24
26
ESTERS
p.41
27
BAR BANDINI
p.44
JOHANNESBURG 11
MR PANTS WINE BAR
p.26
12
PROUD MARY
p.27
MEXICO CITY 28
LAS PALMAS 13
VINÓFILOS TRIANA
p.28
STELLENBOSCH 14
SPEK & BONE
15
BARTINNEY WINE &
16
WINEBAR BY CONCOURS MONDIAL DE BRUXELLES
p.45
29
LOCAL 1
p.48
30
VIGNERON
p.49
MONTERREY
p.29
31
THE WINE BAR BY
CHAMPAGNE BAR
p.30
GRAND CRU
THE WINE GLASS
p.31
MONTREAL
TEL AVIV
32
17
BRUT
p.32
18
BOSSER
p.33
VINVINVIN
p.50
p.51
NAPA 33
BOUNTY HUNTER
p.54
NEW YORK 34
ALDO SOHM WINE BAR
p.55
35
PARCELLE
p.58
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OVERVIEW 36
AIR'S CHAMPAGNE PARLOR
p.59
37
CORKBUZZ
p.60
OAKLAND 38
THE PUNCHDOWN
p.61
ATHENS 54
CAVA VEGERA
p.82
55
HETEROCLITO
p.83
56
OINOSCENT
p.85
PHILADELPHIA 39
LE CAVEAU BAR
BARCELONA p.62
57
PITTSBURGH 40
BAR MARCO STEM WINE BAR
p.63
p.64
RIO DE JANEIRO 42
THE WINEHOUSE
p.65
58
NOBLE ROT
p.88
59
DR MAURY
p.89
60
FREUNDSCHAFT
p.90
61
ORA
p.91
62
KINK
p.94
SAN FRANCISCO
BOLOGNA
43
BIRBA
p.66
44
BUDDY
p.67
SANTIAGO
63
BARRICA 94
p.70
46
BOCANÁRIZ
p.71
VALLEY
p.72
65
BAR GOBO FLIGHT WINE BAR
BLEND
p.100
BAR DU CANAL
p.101
67
LE WINE BAR DES MAROLLES
p.102
COPENHAGEN
p.74
68
POMPETTE
p.103
69
BAR’VIN
p.104
WASHINGTON DC 50
p.97
66
p.73
VANCOUVER 49
BAR À VIN
BRUSSELS
SONOMA 48
p.96
BRUGES
SÃO PAULO ENOTECA SAINT VINSAINT
VINERIA FAVALLI BORDEAUX
64
45
47
p.86
BERLIN
PORTLAND 41
BAR BRUTAL
DUBLIN p.75
70
LOOSE CANON
p.106
EDINBURGH
EUROPE
71
LE DI-VIN
p.108
EHRENHAUSEN AMSTERDAM
72
51
SHIRAZ
p.78
52
BUBBLES & WINES
p.79
TA-NNIN
p.109
GENEVA 73
ANTWERP 53
DIE WEINBANK WIRTSHAUS CHEZ BACCHUS
p.112
GOTHENBURG p.80
74
BJÖRNS BAR
p.113
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OVERVIEW HELSINKI
MUNICH
75
MURU'S WINEBAR
p.114
76
APOTEK
p.115
ISTANBUL 77
VIGNERON WINE HOUSE
p.116
KRAKÓW 78
CZARNA OWCA WINE BAR
97 98
RADEGAST
p.147
99
NEKTAR
p.148
100 VIN BJØRVIKA
p.149
PALERMO 101
79
ANTIGA LISBON
p.119
80
CLUB DES CHÂTEAUX
p.120
MOVIA
FERRAMENTA
102 LA SANG
p.153
PARIS p.121
103 AVANT COMPTOIR
LONDON
DE LA MER
p.154 p.155
82
LES 110 DE TAILLEVENT
p.122
104 228 LITRES
83
NEWCOMER
p.124
105 LEGRAND
84
GORDON'S WINE BAR
p.125
85
NOBLE ROT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT
p.128
86
SAGER + WILDE
p.132
87
SEARCY’S CHAMPAGNE BAR
p.152
PALMA
LJUBLJANA 81
p.146
OSLO
p.118
LISBON
BAR MURAL
FILLES & FILS
p.158
106 WILLI'S WINE BAR
p.160
107 LAVINIA VICTOR HUGO
p.161
PORTO 108 CAPELA INCOMUM RADOVLJICA
p.133
LYON
109 VINOTEKA SODČEK
88
NOSCH
p.134
89
LA CAVE CAFÉ TERROIR
p.135
p.164
p.166
REIMS 110
MADRID
CUL SEC
p.167
ROME
90
DE VINOS
p.136
111
ENOTECA BORTONE
p.168
91
BERRIA
p.137
112
IL PICCOLO
p.169
92
VINOLOGY
p.140
MARSEILLE 93
VOILA VÉ
ROTTERDAM 113 114
94
CIZ CANTINA E CUCINA
p.143
95
TANNICO
p.144
ENOTECA INTERNAZIONALE
GANBARA
p.173
SOLINGEN 115
MONTEROSSO AL MARE 96
p.172
SAN SEBASTIÁN
p.142
MILAN
FOU
MAKU WEINBAR & CAFÉ
p.174
STOCKHOLM p.145
116
COMBO
p.178
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OVERVIEW STRASBOURG 117
ALSACE À BOIRE
SEOUL p.179
133 BAR 81
TRABEN-TRARBACH 118
DIE MOSEL
SHANGHAI p.182
TURKU 119
VINHO WINEBAR
134 PUDAO WINES
p.219
135 SOIF
p.220
SINGAPORE
p.186
VALENCIA 120 TERRA À VINS
p.187
136 PARK90
p.222
137 RVLT
p.223
VENICE 121
VINO VERO
TOKYO p.188
VIENNA 122 MAST
138 GOÛT DE JAUNE
p.226
139 WINESHOP FLOW
p.227
p.189
OCEANIA
VILNIUS 123 SOMM
p.192
AUCKLAND
WARSAW 124 GRONO
p.194
140 APÉRO
p.228
BLENHEIM
ZURICH 125 MOEVENPICK WEIN
p.218
p.198
141
SCOTCH WINE BAR
p.229
HOBART
ASIA
142 LUCINDA
p.230
MELBOURNE BANGKOK 126 CLOUD WINE
p.202
127 KANGKAO WINE CLUB
p.203
128 RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR
p.204
p.206
KUALA LUMPUR 130 COUPE DE VIN VETRO & ENOTECA
p.210
p.234
PERTH p.238
SYDNEY 146 THE WINE LIBRARY
p.239
147 VINI DIVINI
p.242
POPOLARE
p.246
WELLINGTON p.214
TAIPEI 132 LA COPA OSCURA
144 CITY WINE SHOP
148 PASKI VINERIA
MUMBAI 131
p.231
145 VINOTTO
HONG KONG 129 TERROIRS BY LQV
143 OLD PALM LIQUOR
149 NOBLE ROT
p.247
150 THE PUFFIN
p.248
p.215
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Africa & The Middle East
01
Abidjan
LA ROUTE DES VINS 72Q9+8RM, Impasse Bugeat, rue Paul Langevin, Abidjan, Ivory Coast
TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE
It’s a champion of French organic wines and fine food, uniquely located in one of West Africa’s booming metropolises
10
It’s another wine miracle – here in tropical Ivory Coast, a beautiful country known for its fine cocoa beans and fresh ginger juice, you can also find some of the world’s best natural wines and an abundance of the best French products. Initially opened by Franck Lainé in Togo in 2009, La Route des Vins relocated to Abidjan in 2017 and has been a hit with the locals ever since. Here guests can enjoy Lainé’s hospitality along with a choice of 450 wines, from 150 mostly organic winemakers on the bar’s lovely shady terrace. Favourites include Château de Fosse-Sèche, by sustainability champions Adrien and Guillaume Pire; Flo and Olivier Leriche’s Domaine des Accoles and Olivier Bellanger’s La Piffaudière. Also on offer are many great wines from Burgundy, Franck’s native region. Guest sommeliers, such as John Euvrard, who has worked with Paul Bocuse for over 15 years, are regularly invited, while food includes charcuterie and cheese platters sourced from the best French producers.
la-route-des-vins-abidjan.business.site
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TEL +225 07 59 53 4498
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Africa & The Middle East
02
Amman
13C BAR IN THE BACK 129 Arar St, Amman, Jordan
This chic bar, hidden behind the showroom of Jordan’s leading wine producer, offers both worldclass wines and food
Among the old souks and Roman ruins of Amman is a nondescript street that you must not miss: it is home to 13C Bar in the Back, one of the Middle East’s top wine bars and restaurants. Named after the ideal temperature at which to store wine, it is accessed through a small door at the back of the fully stocked showroom of Jordan’s Zumot Wines. A hidden oasis for wine lovers and foodies alike, it features Art Deco-inspired interiors, with a large oval bar and sheltered terrace. Any bottle of the 600 different wines from Jordan and Lebanon to the Mediterranean—including Zumot’s very own Saint George Cabernet Sauvignon—can be bought from the shop and consumed in the bar for a minimal corkage fee. Its award-winning food offering focuses on Mediterranean small plates with Levantine touches, as well as a risotto al vino prepared with the diner’s preferred wine, and a three-cheese mille-feuille that looks worth the trip to Jordan on its own.
12
13cwine.com; @barintheback
TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE
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TEL +962 7 9860 0616
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Africa & The Middle East
03
Beirut
L’APPARTEMENT Jean Jalakh St, Achrafieh Sioufi, Beirut, Lebanon
TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE
Discover the lesserknown world of Lebanese wines in a secret oasis in the centre of bustling Beirut
13
‘It all started in an apartment in Beirut where a group of friends and acquaintances would gather every week for an art atelier. We would paint, create and share stories over wine and music, always leaving feeling more connected and inspired than before,’ explains L’Appartement’s founding team. The gathering grew in popularity, and a new wine bar and bistro was born, first as an underground speakeasy, and now as a terrace in a hidden garden in the heart of Beirut. Its focus is on Lebanese wines—the country has a rich history dating back thousands of years. Its unique geography and climate provide ideal conditions for growing a number of grape varietals, resulting in rich and complex flavours, from crisp whites to bold reds. On the constantly growing menu are bottles of Ixsir, Château Qanafar, Terre Joie, Vignoble Joura, Château Khoury and Château Nakad, while foodwise you can expect French dishes such as steak frites and pain perdu.
@lappartementbeirut
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TEL +961 3 343 076
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Africa & The Middle East
04
Cairo
THE BAR AT NILE PLAZA 1089 Corniche El Nil, 11519 Garden City, Cairo, Egypt
TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE
This chic hotel bar overlooking the mighty Nile is the place to sample the hidden gems that are Egyptian wines
16
Although Egypt is not widely known for its winemaking tradition, it actually has a pretty impressive one. It dates back to the 3rd millennium BCE, when a thriving industry was established in the Nile Delta to supply the red wine that played a key role in ancient Egypt’s ceremonial life. Today there are still a handful of producers in the country, and one of the best places to sample their wines is The Bar at Four Seasons Cairo at Nile Plaza. With wonderful views over Cairo and the Nile, this plush third-floor bar is decorated with Art Deco motifs and classy portraits of Egyptian movie stars from the 1940s and 1950s by leading local studio photographer Van Leo. Head bartender Hany Moussa’s ‘By the Glass’ menu offers a selection of Egypt’s sparkling, rosé, white and red wines, from the Nile Vineyards’ Lavita Secco to Gianaclis Vineyards’ Omar Khayyam Sultanine Blanche/ Bobal. Other local winemakers featured include Karm El Nada Vineyards and Egybev’s Beausoleil. Bar snacks include a hit list of world dishes, including a large selection of sushi.
fourseasons.com/caironp
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TEL +20 2 27917000
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Africa & The Middle East
05
Cape Town
CULTURE 103 Bree St, Cape Town City Centre, Cape Town 8001, South Africa
TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE
This award-winning wine bar offers a carefully curated selection of all-time classics and unusual bottles
17
Opened in 2020 on Cape Town’s coolest block, Culture is a buzzing wine bar with warm and inviting interiors by Stokperd. The key to it success is its offer of over 45 wines by the glass, from a diverse wine list, which owner Matt Manning has put a ‘great deal of time, love and effort into curating’. Choose from two award-wining menus that blend quirky and well-known wines: the Culture List focuses on local wines including Mullineux Chenin Blanc 2020, Sons of Sugarland Barbera and Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs; while the Wanderlist, a collaboration with Radford Dale Imports, features international wines such as Yalumba Y Series Riesling, Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d’à Côté and Jean Chartron Rully. In addition to the traditional cheese and charcuterie boards, tapas options include delicious tempura broccoli and beef shin croquettes. Just above the bar is the Wine Library, a members’ club with a walk-in cellar and a hub for South Africa’s leading wine professionals.
culturewinebar.com
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TEL +27 87 153 5246
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Africa & The Middle East
06
Cape Town
LEO’S Shop 28, De Oude Schuur, 120 Bree St, Cape Town 8001, South Africa
TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE
It’s small but perfectly formed, offering not only an exciting selection of wines, but also great food and art
18
Another Bree Street stalwart is this little family business, Max’s bagel shop by day, and Leo’s wine bar by night—a truly unusual but delicious combo. It’s known for its pizza bagels and food pop-ups (think ramens, fish burgers and Spanish tapas) prepared by top chefs from South Africa and beyond. But the main draw is its selection of low-intervention wines and ciders from small producers. On the menu are bottles such as Force Celeste Chenin Blanc, Testalonga El Bandito, Whole Bunch Syrah and Craven Pinot Gris. The team loves nothing more than tasting the latest ‘bonkers co-ferment’ and selecting wines that ‘challenge and surprise’. Co-owner Matthew Freemantle’s love for collaborations and art means plenty of exciting projects, from producing its own Fun Cat rosé, to artworks on the walls curated by designer friends Hoick Studios. (Past exhibitions include a series of monotypes inspired by outtakes of overheard bar chatter.)
leoswinebar.com
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TEL +27 76 042 0224
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In the same series
Colophon Concept & selection Jurgen Lijcops Texts and photo selection Léa Teuscher Copy editing Melanie Shapiro Book design ASB
150 Bars You Need to Visit Before You Die ISBN 9789401486194
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