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150

WINE BARS YOU NEED TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE By Jurgen Lijcops

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Introduction by Jurgen Lijcops The best wine bars are a boon to humanity in many respects. Cosy, stylish and often inspiring locales where we can meet friends and relax. An inviting ambience – the final step in a creation process both natural and fascinating – forms the perfect setting for sophisticated drinks crafted in a symbiosis between terroir and winemaker. As a sommelier with experience in a variety of restaurants and wine bars, I have always respectfully immersed myself in the collective endeavour that vineyards and winemakers embark upon to craft exceptional wine. In-depth courses, endless tastings, intense trainings, and continuous study. All are milestones on the journey taken by every professional sommelier. Relationships with gifted winemakers also serve as the basis for grasping the essence of making and serving wine. They afford insights into the finer points of the winemaking craft that cannot be gleaned from professional literature. Glimpses of the cherished, hard-won secrets of what makes some wines special and unique. This brings me to my mentor, the Flemish winemaker and pioneer Peter Colemont, owner of Clos d'Opleeuw, to whom I owe a debt of gratitude for honing and deepening my understanding of producing and assessing wines, and of the profession of sommelier. With all of that knowledge, abundant experience, and professional connections in the wine world, selecting and assessing an authentic, exciting wine list becomes so much easier. Just as the excellence of the cuisine defines the quality of a restaurant, the skilfully selected wine references signal a wine bar's ambitions. And just as a restaurant's setting, interior, comfort and service levels are the DNA of its dining experience, location, views, décor, and hospitality are the essence of a truly unique wine bar. In this book, you and I will travel the world, and visit 150 of the world’s most iconic wine bars. Stunning locales where tantalising and fascinating wine selections are served in an ambience that brings people together over an exquisite glass of wine. In vino veritas!

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OVERVIEW

AFRICA & THE MIDDLE EAST

THE AMERICAS

ABIDJAN 01

LA ROUTE DES VINS

BOGOTA p.10

19

AMMAN 02

13C BAR IN THE BACK L'APPARTEMENT

p.12

20

THE BAR AT NILE PLAZA

HALEY.HENRY

p.35

BUENOS AIRES p.13

21

CAIRO 04

p.34

BOSTON

BEIRUT 03

CAVA WINE

PAIN ET VIN

p.36

JOSÉ IGNACIO p.16

22

CAPE TOWN

SOLERA ALMACÉN DE VINOS Y TAPAS

05

CULTURE

p.17

06

LEO’S

p.18

07

PUBLIK WINE BAR

p.19

DUBAI

p.37

LA PAZ 23

HAY PAN

p.38

LIMA 24

CORDIAL

p.39

LOS ANGELES

08

THE AGENCY DUBAI

p.20

09

CAVE DUBAI

p.21

25

BAR COVELL

p.40

10

GRAPESKIN

p.24

26

ESTERS

p.41

27

BAR BANDINI

p.44

JOHANNESBURG 11

MR PANTS WINE BAR

p.26

12

PROUD MARY

p.27

MEXICO CITY 28

LAS PALMAS 13

VINÓFILOS TRIANA

p.28

STELLENBOSCH 14

SPEK & BONE

15

BARTINNEY WINE &

16

WINEBAR BY CONCOURS MONDIAL DE BRUXELLES

p.45

29

LOCAL 1

p.48

30

VIGNERON

p.49

MONTERREY

p.29

31

THE WINE BAR BY

CHAMPAGNE BAR

p.30

GRAND CRU

THE WINE GLASS

p.31

MONTREAL

TEL AVIV

32

17

BRUT

p.32

18

BOSSER

p.33

VINVINVIN

p.50

p.51

NAPA 33

BOUNTY HUNTER

p.54

NEW YORK 34

ALDO SOHM WINE BAR

p.55

35

PARCELLE

p.58

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OVERVIEW 36

AIR'S CHAMPAGNE PARLOR

p.59

37

CORKBUZZ

p.60

OAKLAND 38

THE PUNCHDOWN

p.61

ATHENS 54

CAVA VEGERA

p.82

55

HETEROCLITO

p.83

56

OINOSCENT

p.85

PHILADELPHIA 39

LE CAVEAU BAR

BARCELONA p.62

57

PITTSBURGH 40

BAR MARCO STEM WINE BAR

p.63

p.64

RIO DE JANEIRO 42

THE WINEHOUSE

p.65

58

NOBLE ROT

p.88

59

DR MAURY

p.89

60

FREUNDSCHAFT

p.90

61

ORA

p.91

62

KINK

p.94

SAN FRANCISCO

BOLOGNA

43

BIRBA

p.66

44

BUDDY

p.67

SANTIAGO

63

BARRICA 94

p.70

46

BOCANÁRIZ

p.71

VALLEY

p.72

65

BAR GOBO FLIGHT WINE BAR

BLEND

p.100

BAR DU CANAL

p.101

67

LE WINE BAR DES MAROLLES

p.102

COPENHAGEN

p.74

68

POMPETTE

p.103

69

BAR’VIN

p.104

WASHINGTON DC 50

p.97

66

p.73

VANCOUVER 49

BAR À VIN

BRUSSELS

SONOMA 48

p.96

BRUGES

SÃO PAULO ENOTECA SAINT VINSAINT

VINERIA FAVALLI BORDEAUX

64

45

47

p.86

BERLIN

PORTLAND 41

BAR BRUTAL

DUBLIN p.75

70

LOOSE CANON

p.106

EDINBURGH

EUROPE

71

LE DI-VIN

p.108

EHRENHAUSEN AMSTERDAM

72

51

SHIRAZ

p.78

52

BUBBLES & WINES

p.79

TA-NNIN

p.109

GENEVA 73

ANTWERP 53

DIE WEINBANK WIRTSHAUS CHEZ BACCHUS

p.112

GOTHENBURG p.80

74

BJÖRNS BAR

p.113

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OVERVIEW HELSINKI

MUNICH

75

MURU'S WINEBAR

p.114

76

APOTEK

p.115

ISTANBUL 77

VIGNERON WINE HOUSE

p.116

KRAKÓW 78

CZARNA OWCA WINE BAR

97 98

RADEGAST

p.147

99

NEKTAR

p.148

100 VIN BJØRVIKA

p.149

PALERMO 101

79

ANTIGA LISBON

p.119

80

CLUB DES CHÂTEAUX

p.120

MOVIA

FERRAMENTA

102 LA SANG

p.153

PARIS p.121

103 AVANT COMPTOIR

LONDON

DE LA MER

p.154 p.155

82

LES 110 DE TAILLEVENT

p.122

104 228 LITRES

83

NEWCOMER

p.124

105 LEGRAND

84

GORDON'S WINE BAR

p.125

85

NOBLE ROT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT

p.128

86

SAGER + WILDE

p.132

87

SEARCY’S CHAMPAGNE BAR

p.152

PALMA

LJUBLJANA 81

p.146

OSLO

p.118

LISBON

BAR MURAL

FILLES & FILS

p.158

106 WILLI'S WINE BAR

p.160

107 LAVINIA VICTOR HUGO

p.161

PORTO 108 CAPELA INCOMUM RADOVLJICA

p.133

LYON

109 VINOTEKA SODČEK

88

NOSCH

p.134

89

LA CAVE CAFÉ TERROIR

p.135

p.164

p.166

REIMS 110

MADRID

CUL SEC

p.167

ROME

90

DE VINOS

p.136

111

ENOTECA BORTONE

p.168

91

BERRIA

p.137

112

IL PICCOLO

p.169

92

VINOLOGY

p.140

MARSEILLE 93

VOILA VÉ

ROTTERDAM 113 114

94

CIZ CANTINA E CUCINA

p.143

95

TANNICO

p.144

ENOTECA INTERNAZIONALE

GANBARA

p.173

SOLINGEN 115

MONTEROSSO AL MARE 96

p.172

SAN SEBASTIÁN

p.142

MILAN

FOU

MAKU WEINBAR & CAFÉ

p.174

STOCKHOLM p.145

116

COMBO

p.178

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OVERVIEW STRASBOURG 117

ALSACE À BOIRE

SEOUL p.179

133 BAR 81

TRABEN-TRARBACH 118

DIE MOSEL

SHANGHAI p.182

TURKU 119

VINHO WINEBAR

134 PUDAO WINES

p.219

135 SOIF

p.220

SINGAPORE

p.186

VALENCIA 120 TERRA À VINS

p.187

136 PARK90

p.222

137 RVLT

p.223

VENICE 121

VINO VERO

TOKYO p.188

VIENNA 122 MAST

138 GOÛT DE JAUNE

p.226

139 WINESHOP FLOW

p.227

p.189

OCEANIA

VILNIUS 123 SOMM

p.192

AUCKLAND

WARSAW 124 GRONO

p.194

140 APÉRO

p.228

BLENHEIM

ZURICH 125 MOEVENPICK WEIN

p.218

p.198

141

SCOTCH WINE BAR

p.229

HOBART

ASIA

142 LUCINDA

p.230

MELBOURNE BANGKOK 126 CLOUD WINE

p.202

127 KANGKAO WINE CLUB

p.203

128 RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR

p.204

p.206

KUALA LUMPUR 130 COUPE DE VIN VETRO & ENOTECA

p.210

p.234

PERTH p.238

SYDNEY 146 THE WINE LIBRARY

p.239

147 VINI DIVINI

p.242

POPOLARE

p.246

WELLINGTON p.214

TAIPEI 132 LA COPA OSCURA

144 CITY WINE SHOP

148 PASKI VINERIA

MUMBAI 131

p.231

145 VINOTTO

HONG KONG 129 TERROIRS BY LQV

143 OLD PALM LIQUOR

149 NOBLE ROT

p.247

150 THE PUFFIN

p.248

p.215

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Africa & The Middle East

01

Abidjan

LA ROUTE DES VINS 72Q9+8RM, Impasse Bugeat, rue Paul Langevin, Abidjan, Ivory Coast

TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE

It’s a champion of French organic wines and fine food, uniquely located in one of West Africa’s booming metropolises

10

It’s another wine miracle – here in tropical Ivory Coast, a beautiful country known for its fine cocoa beans and fresh ginger juice, you can also find some of the world’s best natural wines and an abundance of the best French products. Initially opened by Franck Lainé in Togo in 2009, La Route des Vins relocated to Abidjan in 2017 and has been a hit with the locals ever since. Here guests can enjoy Lainé’s hospitality along with a choice of 450 wines, from 150 mostly organic winemakers on the bar’s lovely shady terrace. Favourites include Château de Fosse-Sèche, by sustainability champions Adrien and Guillaume Pire; Flo and Olivier Leriche’s Domaine des Accoles and Olivier Bellanger’s La Piffaudière. Also on offer are many great wines from Burgundy, Franck’s native region. Guest sommeliers, such as John Euvrard, who has worked with Paul Bocuse for over 15 years, are regularly invited, while food includes charcuterie and cheese platters sourced from the best French producers.

la-route-des-vins-abidjan.business.site

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TEL +225 07 59 53 4498

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Africa & The Middle East

02

Amman

13C BAR IN THE BACK 129 Arar St, Amman, Jordan

This chic bar, hidden behind the showroom of Jordan’s leading wine producer, offers both worldclass wines and food

Among the old souks and Roman ruins of Amman is a nondescript street that you must not miss: it is home to 13C Bar in the Back, one of the Middle East’s top wine bars and restaurants. Named after the ideal temperature at which to store wine, it is accessed through a small door at the back of the fully stocked showroom of Jordan’s Zumot Wines. A hidden oasis for wine lovers and foodies alike, it features Art Deco-inspired interiors, with a large oval bar and sheltered terrace. Any bottle of the 600 different wines from Jordan and Lebanon to the Mediterranean—including Zumot’s very own Saint George Cabernet Sauvignon—can be bought from the shop and consumed in the bar for a minimal corkage fee. Its award-winning food offering focuses on Mediterranean small plates with Levantine touches, as well as a risotto al vino prepared with the diner’s preferred wine, and a three-cheese mille-feuille that looks worth the trip to Jordan on its own.

12

13cwine.com; @barintheback

TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE

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TEL +962 7 9860 0616

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Africa & The Middle East

03

Beirut

L’APPARTEMENT Jean Jalakh St, Achrafieh Sioufi, Beirut, Lebanon

TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE

Discover the lesserknown world of Lebanese wines in a secret oasis in the centre of bustling Beirut

13

‘It all started in an apartment in Beirut where a group of friends and acquaintances would gather every week for an art atelier. We would paint, create and share stories over wine and music, always leaving feeling more connected and inspired than before,’ explains L’Appartement’s founding team. The gathering grew in popularity, and a new wine bar and bistro was born, first as an underground speakeasy, and now as a terrace in a hidden garden in the heart of Beirut. Its focus is on Lebanese wines—the country has a rich history dating back thousands of years. Its unique geography and climate provide ideal conditions for growing a number of grape varietals, resulting in rich and complex flavours, from crisp whites to bold reds. On the constantly growing menu are bottles of Ixsir, Château Qanafar, Terre Joie, Vignoble Joura, Château Khoury and Château Nakad, while foodwise you can expect French dishes such as steak frites and pain perdu.

@lappartementbeirut

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TEL +961 3 343 076

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Africa & The Middle East

04

Cairo

THE BAR AT NILE PLAZA 1089 Corniche El Nil, 11519 Garden City, Cairo, Egypt

TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE

This chic hotel bar overlooking the mighty Nile is the place to sample the hidden gems that are Egyptian wines

16

Although Egypt is not widely known for its winemaking tradition, it actually has a pretty impressive one. It dates back to the 3rd millennium BCE, when a thriving industry was established in the Nile Delta to supply the red wine that played a key role in ancient Egypt’s ceremonial life. Today there are still a handful of producers in the country, and one of the best places to sample their wines is The Bar at Four Seasons Cairo at Nile Plaza. With wonderful views over Cairo and the Nile, this plush third-floor bar is decorated with Art Deco motifs and classy portraits of Egyptian movie stars from the 1940s and 1950s by leading local studio photographer Van Leo. Head bartender Hany Moussa’s ‘By the Glass’ menu offers a selection of Egypt’s sparkling, rosé, white and red wines, from the Nile Vineyards’ Lavita Secco to Gianaclis Vineyards’ Omar Khayyam Sultanine Blanche/ Bobal. Other local winemakers featured include Karm El Nada Vineyards and Egybev’s Beausoleil. Bar snacks include a hit list of world dishes, including a large selection of sushi.

fourseasons.com/caironp

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TEL +20 2 27917000

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Africa & The Middle East

05

Cape Town

CULTURE 103 Bree St, Cape Town City Centre, Cape Town 8001, South Africa

TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE

This award-winning wine bar offers a carefully curated selection of all-time classics and unusual bottles

17

Opened in 2020 on Cape Town’s coolest block, Culture is a buzzing wine bar with warm and inviting interiors by Stokperd. The key to it success is its offer of over 45 wines by the glass, from a diverse wine list, which owner Matt Manning has put a ‘great deal of time, love and effort into curating’. Choose from two award-wining menus that blend quirky and well-known wines: the Culture List focuses on local wines including Mullineux Chenin Blanc 2020, Sons of Sugarland Barbera and Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs; while the Wanderlist, a collaboration with Radford Dale Imports, features international wines such as Yalumba Y Series Riesling, Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d’à Côté and Jean Chartron Rully. In addition to the traditional cheese and charcuterie boards, tapas options include delicious tempura broccoli and beef shin croquettes. Just above the bar is the Wine Library, a members’ club with a walk-in cellar and a hub for South Africa’s leading wine professionals.

culturewinebar.com

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TEL +27 87 153 5246

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Africa & The Middle East

06

Cape Town

LEO’S Shop 28, De Oude Schuur, 120 Bree St, Cape Town 8001, South Africa

TO VISIT BEFORE YOU DIE BECAUSE

It’s small but perfectly formed, offering not only an exciting selection of wines, but also great food and art

18

Another Bree Street stalwart is this little family business, Max’s bagel shop by day, and Leo’s wine bar by night—a truly unusual but delicious combo. It’s known for its pizza bagels and food pop-ups (think ramens, fish burgers and Spanish tapas) prepared by top chefs from South Africa and beyond. But the main draw is its selection of low-intervention wines and ciders from small producers. On the menu are bottles such as Force Celeste Chenin Blanc, Testalonga El Bandito, Whole Bunch Syrah and Craven Pinot Gris. The team loves nothing more than tasting the latest ‘bonkers co-ferment’ and selecting wines that ‘challenge and surprise’. Co-owner Matthew Freemantle’s love for collaborations and art means plenty of exciting projects, from producing its own Fun Cat rosé, to artworks on the walls curated by designer friends Hoick Studios. (Past exhibitions include a series of monotypes inspired by outtakes of overheard bar chatter.)

leoswinebar.com

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TEL +27 76 042 0224

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In the same series

Colophon Concept & selection Jurgen Lijcops Texts and photo selection Léa Teuscher Copy editing Melanie Shapiro Book design ASB

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