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Welkin & Meraki Paris
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Boule de Berlin I drew my inspiration for this recipe from the famous ‘Tarte Tropézienne’, or filled brioche. This pastry was originally designed as a dessert, but as we all know, a breakfast buffet is not complete without cakes and other sweet things. The Tarte Tropézienne was created in 1955 by pastry cook Alexandre Micka in honour of Brigitte Bardot, who was staying that year in the fashionable French seaside resort to film Et Dieu créa la femme (1956, Roger Vadim).
- INGREDIENTS FOR 30 SMALL BOULES -
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For the batter:
For the pastry cream:
To finish:
230 ml whole milk 30 g fresh yeast 500 g flour 60 g butter (at room temperature) 145 g vanilla sugar 6 g salt neutral oil (such as peanut oil) for greasing
1 litre whole milk 120 g egg yolks 100 g pudding mix 120 g sugar 1 vanilla pod 50 g butter a pinch of orange blossom
icing sugar grated peel of 1 lemon
Heat the milk until lukewarm. Dissolve the fresh yeast in it. Put the flour, butter, salt and vanilla sugar in the food processor bowl. Run the food processor until everything is well mixed. Slowly pour in the milk with the yeast and knead into an elastic dough in the food processor. It must not stick, but must not be too dry either. Preheat the oven to 30 °C. Rub a large bowl with a lick of neutral oil and dust with flour. Lay the dough in it and cover with a clean kitchen towel. Leave the dough to rise for 40 minutes in the lightly heated oven. Meanwhile, prepare the pastry cream. Bring the milk to the boil. Beat the egg yolks, the pudding powder, the sugar and the vanilla together. Combine with the boiling milk. Mix into a sauce. Now stir the butter into the mixture and leave everything to cool. Beat with a pinch of orange blossom to taste. Remove the risen dough from the oven and push the air out. Knead briefly once again and then form balls larger than golf balls but smaller than tennis balls. Cover a baking tray with baking paper or place a silicon mat on it. Place the balls on the baking tray with sufficient space between them and cover with a towel. Leave for another 20 minutes in the oven at 30 °C to rise. Heat the deep fryer to 170 °C. Bake the balls golden brown all over in the frying oil. Halfway through the frying time turn with a spoon. Place on kitchen paper to drain and leave to cool. Inject the cooled pastry cream into the boules and finish with icing sugar and grated lemon peel.
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Marinated salmon, seed bread, potato, dill and cucumber This is a true classic of Norwegian cuisine. I prepare it as a light and nutritious lunch. There is no precise rule for how much grated peel or horseradish to add. Some prefer it spicier, others can just leave out the horseradish. Feel free to play with the preparation.
- INGREDIENTS TO SERVE 10 -
For the salmon:
For the cucumber:
For the dill emulsion:
For the potato slices:
80 g salmon per person generous dash of olive oil grated lime peel fresh horseradish, finely grated pepper and salt
500 g cucumber, in thin slices salt 30 g dill, freshly chopped 10 g red peppercorns 3 g coriander seeds, bruised 100 g shallot, finely shredded 500 g brine (see basic recipe p. 174)
1 litre sunflower oil 1 clove garlic, crushed 50 g fresh dill 75 g mustard 200 g egg white 80 g dill vinegar pepper and salt
a few baby new potatoes olive oil pepper coarse salt
And also: 10 slices of seed bread, 1.5 cm thick pickled mustard seeds some finely shredded shallot as a garnish fresh dill
Cut the salmon into thin slices. Marinate with the olive oil, grated lime peel and grated horseradish, and season with pepper and salt. Season the cucumber slices with salt and leave to drain for 20 minutes in a sieve. Rinse thoroughly under water until all the salt has been removed. Mix with the herbs and shallot and pour the brine onto the cucumber preparation. Store in the refrigerator. Mix all the ingredients for the dill emulsion in the blender, except the oil. Slowly pour in the sunflower oil and bind into an emulsion. Cook the unpeeled baby potatoes in salt water until al dente and leave to cool. Peel and slice the potatoes. Drizzle with some olive oil and season with pepper and coarse salt. Cover each slice of bread with salmon, cucumber and potato slices. Finish with the emulsion and possibly some pickled mustard seeds (see basic recipe p. 172) and shallot. Garnish with fresh dill.
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Seed bread with radishes and yoghurt, lime, black olive and za’atar Za’atar is a spice mixture from the Middle East. Traditionally, it consists of the spice itself, mixed with sesame seeds and sumac, another fresh-sour spice from the Levant cuisine. The mixture is eaten with both meat and vegetable dishes or, as in Israel and in the Palestinian territories, for breakfast on a sandwich with olive oil.
1 slice seed bread per person, 1.5 cm thick 50 g Greek yoghurt per person 4 fresh radishes per person, sliced
For the radish pickle:
For the basil oil:
To finish:
20 radishes brine (see basic recipe p. 174)
see basic recipe p. 175
tapenade of black olives (natural, commercially available) za’atar spice mix grated lime peel some tarragon leaves basil, dill, tarragon and small flowers
Bring the brine to the boil and pour over the cleaned radishes. Leave to cool and store in a cool place. Cover the slices of bread with a layer of yoghurt. Arrange the pieces and add slices of fresh and pickled radish on top. Finish with some tapenade, za’atar and finally with some tufts and leaves of tarragon, basil and dill. Garnish with basil oil, grated lime peel and petals.
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Ravioli with chicken, tom kha gai, shiitake and cashew nuts This pasta preparation was inspired by my trip to fabulous Thailand, where you will find one of the tastiest and at the same time healthiest cuisines in the world. Tom kha gai is traditionally a classic spicy-sour chicken soup with coconut milk.
For the dough:
For the sauce:
For the filling:
For the vegetables:
see basic recipe on p. 177
½ chilli pepper 1 garlic clove 800 g Spanish onion 1 tablespoon chicken bouillon powder 2 lemongrass stalks 4 lime leaves 10 sprigs coriander 1 dl oriental vinegar 1 litre coconut milk 1 lime
500 g chicken breast or finely ground prawn tails 100 g coriander, finely chopped 100 g white of leek, finely chopped 100 g carrots, finely chopped 100 g shallot, shredded 3 tablespoons oyster sauce 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 garlic clove, crushed 40 g ginger, finely chopped 2 tablespoons sesame oil juice of 1 lime grated peel of 2 limes 2 eggs
200 g fresh mini shiitake mushrooms 5 mini bok choy, cut into pieces 5 shallots, shredded 2 garlic cloves, bruised 1 dl lemongrass oil pepper and salt 150 g edamame beans grated peel of 2 limes To finish: cashew nuts fresh coriander
Prepare the dough as in the recipe on p. 80. Lightly fry the ingredients for the sauce and deglaze with the vinegar. Add the coconut milk and reduce by half. Press through a sieve and add some lime juice. Stir fry the vegetables in a hot pan with the garlic and oil. Season with pepper and salt. Finish with the beans and grated lime peel. Mix all the ingredients for the filling together and fill the ravioli. Cook the ravioli al dente for 4 minutes in salted water. Serve the ravioli with the sauce and the vegetables, and finish with a few cashew nuts and possibly some tufts of coriander.
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Ceviche of sea bream, coconut, mint, coriander and avocado
For the sea bream:
For the avocado crème:
For the jus:
To finish:
4 fillets of king sea bream, approx. 100 g per fillet pepper and salt grated peel of 1 lime lemongrass oil (see basic recipe p. 172)
3 avocados 1 shallot, finely shredded 2 dl olive oil 1 dl mint vinegar (see basic recipe p. 174)grated peel and juice of 1 lime ½ garlic clove, crushed 5 sprigs fresh coriander pepper and salt
500 ml coconut milk 1 small chilli pepper 2 shallots, shredded 3 sprigs mint and coriander, finely chopped 1 dl mint vinegar 50 g ginger, chopped 200 g Greek yoghurt grated peel and juice of 2 limes heads and bones of the fish pepper and salt leek oil (see basic recipe p. 174) lemongrass oil
some roasted and chopped peanuts pickled shallots (see basic recipe p. 174) fresh coriander leaves flowers and herbs grated lime peel
Skin the fish fillets and cut away the red part in the middle of the fillet. Cut the fish into equal chunks and season with salt and pepper, the grated lime peel and the lemongrass oil. Do this just before serving so that the fish does not cook prematurely because of the acids. Mix the avocados with the other ingredients into a smooth crème and season with salt and pepper. Mix all the ingredients for the jus, except for the fish heads and bones, in a blender. Add the heads and bones and leave the sauce to marinate for 2 to 3 hours in the refrigerator. Pour through a fine sieve and season to taste. Finish with leek oil and some lemongrass oil. Place the avocado cream in a deep plate. Place the fish on the cream. Finish with the roasted peanuts, pickled shallot, coriander, flowers and herbs, and the grated lime peel.
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Burrata with pickled vegetables, tapenade of Kalamata olives, and coppa Just like you have different types of mozzarella, you also have burrata of good and of lesser quality. Try to avoid the industrially produced type, which is now coming into supermarkets, and opt for a traditional product from a better cheese shop.
50 g Kalamata olive tapenade 2 burrata fresh-ground pepper Maldon sea salt pickled vegetables (red onions, carrots, radishes, see basic recipes p. 174) 10 thin slices of coppa 100 g ciabatta croutons some young basil leaves a salad of fresh herbs (tarragon, dill, watercress etc.) basil oil (see basic recipe p. 175)
For the basil and rocket jus: 100 g basil 100 g rocket 100 g ice cubes 100 ml olive oil pepper and salt thyme vinegar (see basic recipe p. 174)
Arrange a spoonful of tapenade in the centre of the plate and place the burrata on top of the tapenade. Season with fresh-ground pepper and Maldon sea salt. Place the pickled vegetables around the burrata and distribute the coppa. Finish with the croutons, basil leaves and herbs. Mix the ingredients for the jus in a blender and strain through a sieve. Season with pepper and salt. Drizzle some basil oil and jus around the preparation.
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Poussin chickens with tarragon, candied shallot and carrot, and radicchio (Italian chicory)
4 poussin (baby) chickens 1 bunch tarragon 4 garlic cloves, bruised pepper and salt 1 dl olive oil 200 g fresh butter
For the jus:
For the shallots:
For the carrots:
4 shallots, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed olive oil 1 dl cognac 2 dl white wine 5 dl chicken bouillon 2 dl cream ground pepper salt tarragon oil (see basic recipe p. 174) cornflour tarragon, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed 100 g butter olive oil sugar pepper and salt 8 thick shallots, cut in half lengthwise 2 sprigs of thyme
4 thick carrots in different colours, peeled and cleaned 1 shallot, cut into small chunks 2 garlic cloves, crushed 100 g butter olive oil 1 star anise 2 sprigs of bay and thyme pepper and salt sugar 2 cloves 1 litre chicken bouillon 50 g parsley, finely chopped
Stuff the poussin chickens with tarragon and a clove of garlic. Season with pepper and salt. Pour oil over the chickens and place a knob of butter on each. Cook in a preheated oven at 180°C for 45 minutes. For the jus, lightly fry the shallots in a pan, add the garlic and deglaze with the cognac and the white wine. Reduce and then add the bouillon and the cream. Reduce by half and season with pepper, salt and tarragon oil. Thicken the sauce with cornflour. Add some freshly chopped tarragon before serving. Then prepare the shallots. Melt the butter and the olive oil in a pan with the garlic. Add sugar, pepper and salt and place the shallots flat-side down in the butter. Add the sprigs of thyme and place a sheet of baking paper on the shallots. Cover with a lid and leave the shallots to cook nicely in the same way as endives. Cut the carrots into thick pieces. Cook them with the shallot, garlic and aromatics in a shallow pot and moisten with the bouillon. Cover with a lid and leave to cook until the carrots are nice and soft. Remove the carrots from the pot and leave the liquid to reduce. Glaze the carrots in the pan with butter. Finish with chopped parsley. Serve this dish with potato mousseline or pasta and a salad of radicchio enriched with thyme vinegar and basil oil (see basic recipes p. 175).
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Lemon tart with white chocolate and raspberries
Precision is essential in patisserie. Resist the temptation to round up or down the amounts in this recipe, as this may give a less successful end result.
For 1 tart: 8 cm tart base cocoa butter 250 g raspberries icing sugar
For the crĂŠmeux of white chocolate with lemon: 74 g glucose 66 g egg yolks 162 ml milk 570 ml cream 288 g white chocolate juice of 3 lemons grated peel of 1 lime, 1 lemon, 1 orange pinch of saffron 2 cinnamon sticks 2 gelatine leaves
Coat a tart base with cocoa butter and leave to stiffen. Heat the glucose and add to the yolks. Mix well. Bring the milk to the boil with the cream, the chocolate, aromatics and spices. Add the egg yolk mixture and bring to a temperature of 82 °C. Remove the cinnamon sticks from the mixture. Pour through a fine sieve and add the soaked and squeezed gelatine. Stir and pour the filling into the tart base. Leave to stiffen in the refrigerator. Arrange the raspberries nicely on the cake and finish with icing sugar.