Welcome to the World Heritage City of Bruges
There are places that somehow manage
tant events and a complete summary of
to get under your skin, even though you
the Bruges museums, attractions and
don’t really know them all that well.
other sites of interest, including histor-
Bruges is that kind of place. A warm and
ical, cultural and religious buildings
friendly place, a place made for people.
and locations. Bruges’ beautiful
A city whose history made it great, re-
squares and enchanting canals are the
sulting in a well-deserved classification
regular backdrop for topclass cultural
as a Unesco World Heritage site.
events. And few cities have such a rich and diverse variety of museums, which contain gems ranging from the Flemish
different facets. There are five separate
primitives and beautiful lace work to
chapters.
the finest modern art of today.
In chapter 1 you will find everything you
In Bruges you can dine at a different
need to prepare your trip to Bruges. You
star-rated restaurant each day, or per-
will read about the ten must sees, get a
haps you would prefer lunch at a trendy
brief summary of the city’s history and
bistro before wandering through the
discover lots of practical information.
winding cobbled streets of the city? Or
Further in this chapter, the lovers of good
maybe you just want to take in a pleasant
food and drink will find a list of the best
pub or one of the many magnificent ter-
restaurants, while the shopaholics will
races with a view? These are the places,
receive tips for the most authentic and
full of charm and character, which you
top-quality shopping addresses.
can read about in chapter 4. Five ‘new arrivals’ to the city will also tell you about
The three inspiring walking routes in-
their favourite places in town.
cluded in chapter 2 will take you to all the most beautiful spots in town. The
Staying a bit longer in the region?
detailed city plan – which you can sim-
Chapter 5 suggests a number of excur-
ply fold out of the back cover of this
sions to the other Flemish historical
guide – will make sure that you don’t
cities, the Bruges Wetlands and Wood-
lose your way.
lands, the coast, the Westhoek, the Lys valley, the Meetjesland (Creek Country)
Chapter 3 provides a summary of the many different possibilities for exploring Bruges and gives details of everything the city has to offer in cultural terms: a calendar of the most impor-
and the Flemish Ardennes. The choice is yours!
1 FO R E WO R D
In this guide you will discover Bruges’
Highlights of Bruges The 10 ‘classics’ you don’t want to miss Rozenhoedkaai and the Bruges canals, a typical city view
HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES
4
The Rozenhoedkaai (Rosary Quay) links the Belfry with the city’s network of canals, the true ‘veins’ of Bruges, and offers a unique and picturesque panoramic view. Hardly surprising, then, that the Rozenhoedkaai is the most popular photographic hot-spot in town! You can discover many more special places and hidden pearls during a boat trip on the canals. From the water, Bruges is even more enchanting. A classic that you really don’t want to miss.
Markt: an absolute must The vibrant centre of the city has been dominated for centuries by the 83-metre high Belfry. Today, you can climb right to the top of this impressive tower. You will be rewarded with a spectacular view of Bruges and the surrounding countryside. The Markt (Market Square) is also home to the Historium, a top attraction that takes you back in time to the city’s medieval past. Ringed with colourful houses, the Market Square is also the regular standing place for the famous horse-drawn carriages. (Read more on pages 76 and 84-85)
Medieval splendour on the Burg The Burg is the beating heart of the city. From the 14th century town hall, which is the oldest in the Low Countries, Bruges has been governed for more than 600 years. This majestic architectural square also contains the Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, the former Civil Registry and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. No other location in Bruges bears greater testimony to the city’s former wealth.
Strolling through the old Hansa Quarter From the 13th to the 15th century, Bruges was the most important trading centre in North-West Europe. Spanish merchants settled along the Spaanse Loskaai (Spanish Quay) and in the Spanjaardstraat. The Germans or Easterners – ‘oosterlingen’ in Dutch – took up residence in the Oosterlingenplein. In this old Hansa Quarter you can admire the mansions of the wealthy international merchants and the great trading nations of the day. You can almost still smell the atmosphere of the Middle Ages.
The Flemish primitives: timeless beauty In Bruges’ Golden Age – the 15th century – art was king. Leading artists of the day, like Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling, came to live and work in the city. Today, you can marvel at the masterpieces of the world-famous Flemish primitives in the Groeninge Museum and the St. John’s Hospital. Here you can come face to face with the great paintings that were created in the city all those centuries ago. (Read more on pages 84 and 90)
5 HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES
(Read more on pages 75, 79 and 92)
Practical information Accessibility
P R A CT I CA L I N FO R M AT I O N
12
If you see the symbol in this guide, this means that provision has been made for people with disabilities. Further details about the level of accessibility can be found tourist information offices. at the
Bicycle rental points » Bauhaus Bike Rental LOCATION > Langestraat 145 PRICE > 3 hours: € 6.00; full day: € 10.00 OPEN > Daily, 8.00 a.m.-9.00 p.m. (bikes must be returned by 9.00 p.m.) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 10 93, www.bauhaus.be/services/bike-rental B-Bike Concertgebouw » LOCATION > Concertgebouw, ’t Zand PRICE > 1 hour: € 4.00; 5 hours: € 8.00; full day: € 12.00. Tandem, 5 hours: € 14.00;
full day: € 22.00. Electric bike, full day: € 20.00 OPEN > During the period 1/3 to 1/12: daily, 10.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. INFO > Tel. +32 (0)479 97 12 80, info@b-bike.be Bruges Bike Rental » LOCATION > Niklaas Desparsstraat 17 PRICE > 1 hour: € 4.00; 2 hours: € 7.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 13.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 10.00. Tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 2 hours: € 15.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 25.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 22.00 OPEN > During the period 1/2 to 31/12: daily, 10.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1 and 25/12 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 61 61 08, www.brugesbikerental.be
» De Ketting LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 23 PRICE > Full day: € 7.00. Electric bike, full day: € 20.00 OPEN > During the period 1/4 to 15/10: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. and Sunday, 10.30 a.m.-6.00 p.m.; during the period 16/10 to 31/3: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 41 96, www.deketting.be
Eric Popelier » LOCATION > Mariastraat 26 PRICE > 1 hour: € 5.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00. Electric bike or tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00 OPEN > During the period 15/3 to 15/10: daily, 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; during the period 16/10 to 14/3: daily, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1, 25/5 and 25/12, closed on Monday in January and December INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 32 62, www.fietsenpopelier.be Fietspunt Station » LOCATION > Hendrik Brugmansstraat 3 (Stationsplein) PRICE > 1 hour: € 6.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00. Electric bike, 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00 OPEN > Monday to Friday, 7.00 a.m7.00 p.m.; during the period 1/5 to 30/9:
Koffieboontje » LOCATION > Hallestraat 4 PRICE > 1 hour: € 5.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 11.25. Tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 22.50 OPEN > Daily, 9.00 a.m.-10.00 p.m. INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 33 80 27, www.bikerentalkoffieboontje.be Snuffel Hostel » LOCATION > Ezelstraat 42 PRICE > Full day: € 8.00 OPEN > Daily, 8.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. (bikes have to be returned by 8.00 p.m.) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 33 31 33, www.snuffel.be Steershop » LOCATION > Havenstraat 3 PRICE > City bike, full day: € 10.00. Racing or touring bike, full day: € 25.00; per extra day: € 15.00. Bikes must be reserved online. OPEN > Tuesday to Saturday, 2.00 p.m.7.00 p.m. (collecting bikes between 8.00 a.m. and 12.00 p.m. is possible following reservation online) EXTRA > Guided tours (see pages 155-156) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)474 40 84 01, www.steershop.be Most of the bicycle rental points ask for the payment of a guarantee.
Bike taxi A bike taxi will bring you to your destination in an ecological way.
13 P R A CT I CA L I N FO R M AT I O N
Electric Scooters » Rental of electric bikes. LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 55 en 62 PRICE > 2 hours: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 18.00; full day: € 30.00 OPEN > During the period 1/4 to 31/10: Wednesday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.6.00 p.m. EXTRA > Rental of electric scooters (see pages 20-21) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)474 09 19 18, www.electric-scooters.be
also during weekends and on holidays, 9.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1 to 3/1 and 25/12 to 31/12 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 39 68 26 fietspunt.brugge@groepintro.be
Shopping in Bruges
Bruges has lots of shops to offer you something special: authentic places that surprise you again and again with their clever and original products. The city is rightly famous for its harmonious mix of creative and trendy newcomers, vintage addresses where nostalgia rules, and classic establishments that have been run with success for decades by the same family.
Where to shop?
a Sunday. Many specialist stores are
Because Bruges is pedestrian-friendly
open on Sunday as well. And on ‘Shop-
and the main streets are all close to
ping Sundays’ – the first Sunday of the month, except on public holidays, from
much more relaxing than in many other
1.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. – they are joined by
cities. You will find all the major national
the majority of the other shops. To make
and international chains, as well as
your shopping experience more pleas-
trendy local boutiques. And if you leave
ant, there is restricted access for traffic
the beaten shopping paths you will cer-
on Saturdays and ‘Shopping Sundays’ in
tainly make plenty of interesting new
the following shopping streets:
discoveries. The most important shop-
Zuidzandstraat, Steenstraat, Geldmunt-
ping streets (indicated in yellow on the
straat and Noordzandstraat (from
removable city map) run between the
1.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m.).
Market Square and the old city gates: traat, Zuidzandstraat, Sint-Jakob-
Bruges’ craftspersons and specialty stores
sstraat, Sint-Amandsstraat, Geldmunt-
Creativity is built into the DNA of the peo-
straat, Noordzandstraat, Smedenstraat,
ple of Bruges; so it should come as no
Vlamingstraat, Academiestraat, Philip-
surprise to anyone that nowadays the
stockstraat, Hoogstraat, Langestraat
city is teeming with innovative entrepre-
and Katelijnestraat. There is also a
neurs. In the charming craft shops you
small but elegant shopping centre, the
are guaranteed to find an original, hand-
Zilverpand, hidden between Noordzand-
made gift to surprise your family and
straat and Zuidzandstraat. Each neigh-
friends back home. Surf to www.hand
bourhood has its own unique atmos-
madeinbrugge.be and discover dozens
phere. In Steenstraat, for example, you
of fun addresses and inspiring stories.
will find the famous brand names,
Also check out the official city app Xplore
whereas Langestraat boasts many little
Bruges, which will take you to all the
Steenstraat, Simon Stevinplein, Marias-
secondhand and bric-à-brac shops. The large hypermarkets are located just outside the city centre.
When to shop? Most shops operate from Monday to Saturday, opening at 10.00 a.m. and closing at either 6.00 or 6.30 p.m. But this does not mean that you need to go home empty-handed if you come to Bruges on
27 SHOPPING IN BRUGES
each other, a day’s shopping here is
Walk 1 Bruges, proud World Heritage City
Bruges may be, quite rightly, very proud of her World Heritage status, but the city is happily embracing the future too! This walk takes you along world-famous panoramic views, sky-high monuments and centuries-old squares invigorated by contemporary constructions. One foot planted in the Middle Ages, the other one firmly planted in the present. This walk is an absolute must for first-time visitors who would like to explore the very heart of the city straight away. Keep your camera at the ready!
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From ’t Zand to Simon Stevinplein tourist office
’t Zand (Concertgebouw). ’t Zand is dominated by the Concert Hall
Bruges’ oldest parish church is located
18 , one of Bruges’ most talked-about
B R U G E S , P R O U D WO R L D H E R I TA G E C I T Y
street on the right. Saint Saviour’s Cathedral 23 looms up ahead on your right after three hundred metres.
This walk starts at the
34
turn into Zuidzandstraat, the first
on a lower level than the present
buildings. Clear-cut proof that this
Zuidzandstraat, which is situated on an
World Heritage city isn’t afraid of the fu-
old sand ridge. What’s more, in the
ture. As of September 2017 the Concert
Middle Ages people simply threw their
Hall – Open House 18 will take you be-
refuse out onto the street where it was
hind the scenes and right to the very top
then flattened by passing carts and
of this magnificent building, where you
coaches. This raised the street level
can find an interactive space for sound
even further. Inside Saint Saviour’s, the
art. You can also enjoy the wonderful
church tower’s wooden rafters can be
view over the Bruges skyline. Don’t for-
lit. The cathedral treasury displays in-
get to drop in at the
teresting copper memorial plaques, fine
tourist office
’t Zand (Concertgebouw) on the ground
examples of gold and silver and paint-
floor: here you will find all the necessary
ings by Dieric Bouts, Hugo van der Goes
tourist information as well as expert ad-
and Pieter Pourbus.
vice on all cultural events. Continue past the cathedral and Leave
’t Zand (Concertgebouw) be-
hind you, walk along the square and
walk down Sint-Salvatorskerkhof immediately on the right. Turn left 18
into Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat. The
Return to the Belfry 05 and walk
Simon Stevinplein opens up at the
down Breidelstraat, a traffic-free alley
end of this street.
on the corner at the left. Continue
This attractive square, lined with cosy
to the Burg square.
restaurant terraces in summertime, is
Along the way on your right you will no-
named after Simon Stevin, a wellknown
tice De Garre, a narrow alley. This may
Flemish-Dutch scientist. His gracious
be the narrowest street in Bruges (try
statue naturally takes centre stage.
walking side by side here!), it neverthe-
Markt and Burg
less boasts a fair number of cosy cafés. The Burg is the most majestic square in the city, so take your time to admire its
the right-hand corner of the square.
grandeur. The main character in this
Before long you will see the Cloth Halls
medieval story is the City Hall 08 43
09 on your left. These belong to the
(1376-1420), one of the oldest city halls
Belfry 05 . You’re allowed to cross the
in the Netherlands and a Gothic exam-
halls’ imposing inner court between
ple for all its brothers and sisters that
8.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. during the week,
were built later, from Louvain to Aude-
and between 9.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. on
narde and Brussels. Having admired its
Saturday. The Markt is at the other end
exterior, enter the impressive Gothic
of the yard. If the gate is closed, turn
Hall and gaze in admiration at the poly-
back and walk down Hallestraat, which
chrome floating ribs of the vaulted ceil-
runs parallel to the Halls.
ing. Hiding on the right-hand side of
Walk 2 (see pages 45-47) comments
this Gothic monument is the Basilica of
more extensively on Markt.
the Holy Blood 01 . It was originally dedicated to both Our Lady and Saint
BURG SQUARE: AN ARCHITECTURAL SYNOPSIS Art lovers have already noticed that the Burg projects a wonderful cross-section of stunning architectural styles. It is, indeed, a summing-up in one place of all the styles that have caught our imagination throughout the various centuries. From Romanesque (Saint Basil’s Church) and Gothic (City Hall) by way of Renaissance (Civil Registry) and Baroque (Deanery) to Classicism (Mansion of the Liberty of Bruges). There’s no need to go and dash all around Bruges to see it all!
35 B R U G E S , P R O U D WO R L D H E R I TAG E C I T Y
Continue down Oude Burg, a street in
past beneath your feet. Discover the history of the city through different kinds of search and hands-on activities. A fascinating mix of archaeological finds, riddles, replicas and reconstructions shed light on daily life in times gone by, from the home to the workplace and from birth till death.
Adornesdomein – Jeruzalemkapel (Adornes Estate – Jerusalem Chapel) 01 08
MUSEUMS, PLACES OF INTEREST AND ATTRACTIONS
74
OPEN > Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 a.m.-
12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m., last admission: 12.00 p.m. and 4.30 p.m. (open on Easter Monday and Whit Monday)
The Adornes domain consists of the
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
15th-century Jerusalem Chapel (a jewel
1/1, 25/5 (1.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.) and 25/12
of medieval architecture built by this
PRICE > € 4.00; 65+ and youngsters aged
rich merchant family), the Adornes
12 to 25: € 3.00; children under 12: free
mansion and a series of adjacent alms-
INFO > Mariastraat 36A, tel. +32 (0)50
houses. In the multimedia museum, you
44 87 43, www.museabrugge.be
can follow in the footsteps of Anselm Adornes and learn all about the world in
03
Arentshuis
which he lived. You will go on a pilgrim-
In this elegant 17th-century mansion with
age, take part in a joust and meet many
its picturesque garden, the work of the
notable persons of the time, such as the
versatile British artist Frank Brangwyn
King of Scotland, the Lords of Gruuthuse
(1867-1956) is on display on the top floor.
and the Dukes of Burgundy.
Brangwyn was both a graphic artist and
OPEN > Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-
a painter, as well as a designer of car-
5.00 p.m.
pets, furniture and ceramics. The
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
ground floor is the setting for temporary
All (Belgian) public holidays
plastic art exhibitions.
PRICE > € 7.00; 65+: € 5.00; youngsters
aged 7 to 25: € 3.50; children under 7: free INFO > Peperstraat 3A, tel. +32 (0)50
33 88 83, www.adornes.org 02 Archeologiemuseum (Archaeological Museum)
This museum presents the unwritten history of Bruges. Its motto: feel your
OPEN > Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 a.m.-
PRICE > Double church: free; treasury:
5.00 p.m., last admission: 4.30 p.m. (open
€ 2.50; children under 13: free
on Easter Monday and Whit Monday)
INFO > Burg 13, tel. +32 (0)50 33 67 92,
ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >
www.holyblood.com
1/1, 25/5 (1.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.) and 25/12 aged 12 to 25: € 3.00; children under 12:
02 02 04 Begijnhof (Beguinage)
free; combination ticket with Groeninge
The ‘Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde’
Museum possible (see page 84)
with its white-coloured house fronts,
INFO > Dijver 16, tel. +32 (0)50 44 87 43,
tranquil convent garden and beguinage
www.museabrugge.be
museum was founded in 1245. This little
PRICE > € 4.00; 65+ and youngsters
home of the beguines, emancipated lay-women who nevertheless led a pious and celibate life. Today the beguinage is
The double church, dedicated to Our
inhabited by nuns of the Order of St.
Lady and Saint Basil in the 12th century
Benedict and several Bruges women
and a basilica since 1923, consists of a
who have decided to remain unmarried.
lower church that has maintained its
In the Beguine’s house, you can still get a
Romanesque character and a
good idea of what day-to-day life was like
neo-Gothic upper church, in which the
in the 17th century.
relic of the Holy Blood is preserved.
OPEN > Beguinage: daily, 6.30 a.m.-
The treasury, with numerous valuable
6.30 p.m.; Beguine’s house: Monday to
works of art, is also worth a visit.
Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m.; Sunday
OPEN > Daily, 9.30 a.m.-12.00 p.m. and
2.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m.
2.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.; during the period
PRICE > Beguinage: free; Beguine’s
16/11 to 31/3 closed on Wednesday after-
house: € 2.00; 65+: € 1.50; children
noon. Veneration of the relic: daily, 11.30
aged 8 to 12 and students (on display of
a.m.-12.00 p.m. and 2.00 p.m.-4.00 p.m.
a valid student card): € 1.00
75 MUSEUMS, PLACES OF INTEREST AND ATTRACTIONS
01 Basiliek van het Heilig Bloed (Basilica of the Holy Blood)
piece of world heritage was once the
What’s on the programme in 2017? The list below shows some of the most important events taking place in Bruges. You can also find the same details in the monthly event calendar that you can pick up free of charge from the
tourist information offices on the Markt (Historium), ’t Zand
(Concertgebouw) and in the Railway station. And, of course, for a detailed events calendar you can always consult the website at www.visitbruges.be.
C U LT U R E A N D A M U S E M E N T
96
Bach Academie
Wintervonken (Winter Sparks)
17/1/2017 – 22/1/2017
10/2/2017 and 11/2/2017
Bach learned his music at his mother’s
Winter Sparks brings warmth and convi-
knee, but in 1705 he set off on foot to
viality to the Burg square. The fourth edi-
Lübeck to become an apprentice of
tion of this winter festival once again
Buxtehude, whose flawless piano tech-
guarantees scintillating street theatre,
nique and Abendmusiken concerts were
atmospheric concerts and heart-
without a doubt an enormous source of
warming fire installations.
inspiration to the young Bach. The se-
INFO > www.wintervonken.be
venth Bruges Bach Academy explores the musical richness of the Protestant
B Major!
Reformation, with a focus on choral
1/3/2017 – 5/3/2017
works.
B Major! is a new biannual music festival
INFO > www.concertgebouw.be (You can
in which all the professional musical ac-
read more about Bach and early music in
tors in Bruges join forces. The result is
the interview with Albert Edelman on
an exciting five-day programme, speci-
pages 120-123)
ally made in the city for the city. INFO > www.bmajor.be
Brugs Bierfestival (Bruges Beer Festival)
More Music!
4/2/2017 and 5/2/2017
12/4/2017 – 15/4/2017
For a whole weekend the courtyard of
The Bruges Concert Hall and the Cactus
the Belfry, the city halls and the Market
Music Centre once again join forces to
Square are the place to be for anyone
make More Music!, an exciting encoun-
who wants to learn more about Belgian
ter between diverse and contrasting
beers, old and new! The festival brings
musical worlds. The result is an intri-
together more than 80 Belgian brewe-
guing total concept that takes the visitor
ries, which account for the production
on an adventurous four-day voyage of
of more than 360 different beers.
musical discovery.
INFO > www.brugsbierfestival.be
INFO > www.moremusicfestival.be
Mooov filmfestival 19/4/2017 – 27/4/2017 This film festival, screened in Cinema Lumière and Cinema Liberty, shows the best new films from Africa, Asia and South America. The programme covers both artistically innovative movies and films with a social conscience. INFO > www.mooov.be
CARILLON CONCERTS Throughout the year, you can enjoy free, live carillon concerts in Bruges
5/5/2017 – 14/5/2017
on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sun-
A new biannual literary festival that in-
days from 11.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m.
vites international writers to offer their
From mid-June to mid-September,
own views of Bruges in words. You can
evening concerts also take place on
discover the resulting stories, manifes-
Mondays and Wednesdays from 9.00
tos and ‘urban legends’ by following a
p.m. to 10.00 p.m. The inner courtyard
special route that leads through the
of the Belfry is a good place to listen.
heart of the city.
INFO > www.carillon-brugge.be
INFO > www.brutaalbrugge.be
Meifoor (May Fair)
Dwars door Brugge
5/5/2017 – 28/5/2017
(Running through Bruges)
For three fun-filled weeks some
May 2017
90 fairground attractions ‘take over’
About 7,000 runners set off on a 15 km
’t Zand, the Beursplein, the Koning
route through the city. This unique run-
Albertpark and the Simon Stevinplein.
ning event through the historic centre of Bruges is no longer just popular with
Memling in Context
local people, but now attracts competi-
A fresh look at Hans Memling’s paintings
tors from all over the world. For the
of the Saint John’s Hospital
lesser gods, there is a 5 km course and
11/5/2017 – 8/10/2017
a Kids Run is organized for children up
The best way to learn about the mas-
to 12 years of age.
terpieces of Hans Memling, one of the
INFO > www.brugge.be
greatest of the Flemish primitives, is to view them within the context of the
Budapest Festival
wider collection of the St. John’s Hospi-
18/5/2017 – 20/5/2017
tal. This new presentation sheds new
A three-day festival of music with con-
light on his remarkably rich oeuvre.
certs by the renowned Budapest Festival
INFO > www.museabrugge.be
Orchestra, conducted by Iván Fischer.
97 C U LT U R E A N D A M U S E M E N T
BruTaal
Bruges: World Heritage city Sonia Papili reveals the Italian side of Bruges
During the week, the Italian Sonia Papili studies the North Sea with academic sobriety; during the weekend she guides her fellow countrymen with great passion around her adopted city. A passion that began gradually some eleven years ago, but now burns more brightly than ever.
ID-KIT Name: Sonia Papili Nationality: Italian Date of birth: 17 May 1972 Living in Bruges since 2006. Sonia is a geologist with the Ministry of Defence and a tourist guide in Bruges.
Two geologists – him attached to the
ty and temperament. And he was right: Bruges really is my city!’
University of Rome – who met on a ship
In the meantime, Sonia learnt Dutch
in Istanbul to discuss climate change:
and started work here as a geologist.
there are worse ways to start a
During her citizenship programme, she
long-distance relationship. For three
became more and more curious about
years, the pair commuted back and
the history of her new home town. ‘Dur-
forth between Italy and Belgium, before
ing the language course they told us a
finally deciding to settle in Bruges.
little bit about the history of the place.
‘I had only been in Bruges once before,’
This intrigued me and so I decided to
says Sonia. ‘I was much more familiar
follow a three-year course to become
with Ghent, but my husband thought
an official guide in Bruges.’
that Bruges better suited my personali-
‘I was much more familiar with Ghent, but my husband thought that Bruges better suited my personality and temperament. And he was right: Bruges really is my city!’ WHY BRUGES IS A WORLD HERITAGE CITY In 1998, the Bruges Beguinage was recognized as a World Heritage site. A year later, the Belfry received similar recognition. In 2000, this was extended to cover the entire city centre. Since 2009, the Holy Blood Procession has been listed as an item of immaterial World Heritage. Bruges also has a valuable and impressive architectural patrimony and is a fine example of an architecturally harmonious city. In particular, Bruges is famed for its Gothic style buildings in brick. In addition, its authentic and organically developed medieval urban fabric has been perfectly preserved and it is also the ‘birthplace’ of the Flemish primitives. In other words, reasons enough for UNESCO to label Bruges as a ‘World Heritage city’.
105 B R U G E S : WO R L D H E R I TA G E C I T Y
University of Ghent, her attached to the
The other Flemish historical cities
Antwerp (Antwerpen)
82 km
It is hard to describe Antwerp in a single word. This historic city has so much to
T H E OT H E R F L E M I S H H I S TO R I CA L C I T I E S
146
offer: a beautiful cathedral and numer-
ges and Antwerp (journey time: ca. 1.30 hours; www.belgianrail.be).
Brussels (Brussel)
88 km
ous imposing churches, a magnificent
The whole world comes together in Brus-
Central Station, the ground-breaking
sels, with a different continent around
Museum on the River (MAS), the tranquil
every corner. It is a city bursting with life,
Rubens House, a delightful sculpture
from the exotic Matonge quarter to the
garden (Middelheim), a zoo with a history
stately elegance of the European institu-
and so much more. Antwerp is also Bel-
tions. The capital of Belgium has a vi-
gium’s fashion capital, home to many in-
brancy like no other and the formality of
ternationally renowned designers. That
its ‘hard’ metropolitan structure is sof-
is why in the Scheldt city you will find
tened by the authentic, working-class
dozens of exclusive boutiques, rubbing
ambiance of its more popular districts. In
shoulders with fun bric-a-brac shops
the shadow of the majestic Market
where you can browse for hours: it’s
Square, Manneken-Pis is permanently
every fashionista’s dream! Not surpris-
peeing. And this diverse city even knows
ingly, the local ‘Antwerpenaars’ – who
how to reconcile the chic sophistication of
are fairly loud by nature – are extremely
the Zavel with the folksy informality of the
proud of their city.
Vossenplein. Royalty watchers rush
INFO > www.visitantwerpen.be; there is
eagerly to the Paleizenplein, art lovers
a direct train connection between Bru-
can do their thing at one of the more than
twisted trunks add to the charm of the
the Magritte Museum, the BOZAR (Muse-
setting. You can also experience their
um of Fine Arts) or the Horta Museum,
beauty from the water. The nostalgic
foodies hurry to the numerous food tem-
paddle steamer Lamme Goedzak travels
ples, and vintage-lovers climb to the top
leisurely and in style to and fro between
of the Atomium. And in the city where
the small medieval town and Bruges’
both Tintin and the Smurfs were born,
Noorweegse Kaai (Norwegian Quay).
comic lovers will have their every wish
And every second Sunday of the month,
fulfilled, with more than 50 comic-strip
Damme is transformed into a book cen-
walls and a renowned Comics Museum.
tre, as booksellers from near and far
INFO > visit.brussels; there is
come together to display their wares!
a direct train connection between
INFO > www.toerismedamme.be; sched-
Bruges and Bruxelles-Central (Brus-
uled bus no. 43 (not on Saturday, Sunday
sels-Central, journey time: ca. 1.00 -
and public holidays, see www.delijn.be
1.15 hours; www.belgianrail.be).
for the time schedule), bus stop:
Damme
6 km
Damme Plaats; or by the paddle steamer Lamme Goedzak, www.bootdamme-
To the north-east of Bruges lies the
brugge.be (For more information see
charming town of Damme. Until the silt-
page 67). You can also easily cycle to
ing up of the tidal inlet Zwin, Damme
Damme (for bicycle rental points see pag-
was the transhipment port of Bruges. To
es 12-13) or hire a scooter to ride there
reach the literary home of Tijl Uilen-
(see pages 20-21 for scooter rental points).
spiegel (Owlglass), you drive straight along the banks of the Damse Vaart
Ghent (Gent)
39 km
(Damme Canal), which is without doubt
No other people are as stubborn and as
one of the most beautiful pieces of na-
self-willed as the people of Ghent – or the
ture in all Belgium. The canal is lined
Gentenaars, as they are known. It is built
with magnificent poplars, some of which
into their genes. In the Middle Ages, the
are over 100 years old. Their wind-
‘Gentenaars’ revolted against Emperor
147 T H E OT H E R F L E M I S H H I S TO R I C A L C I T I E S
hundred museums and galleries, such as