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Welcome to the World Heritage City of Bruges

There are places that somehow manage

tant events and a complete summary of

to get under your skin, even though you

the Bruges museums, attractions and

don’t really know them all that well.

other sites of interest, including histor-

Bruges is that kind of place. A warm and

ical, cultural and religious buildings

friendly place, a place made for people.

and locations. Bruges’ beautiful

A city whose history made it great, re-

squares and enchanting canals are the

sulting in a well-deserved classification

regular backdrop for topclass cultural

as a Unesco World Heritage site.

events. And few cities have such a rich and diverse variety of museums, which contain gems ranging from the Flemish

different facets. There are five separate

primitives and beautiful lace work to

chapters.

the finest modern art of today.

In chapter 1 you will find everything you

In Bruges you can dine at a different

need to prepare your trip to Bruges. You

star-rated restaurant each day, or per-

will read about the ten must sees, get a

haps you would prefer lunch at a trendy

brief summary of the city’s history and

bistro before wandering through the

discover lots of practical information.

winding cobbled streets of the city? Or

Further in this chapter, the lovers of good

maybe you just want to take in a pleasant

food and drink will find a list of the best

pub or one of the many magnificent ter-

restaurants, while the shopaholics will

races with a view? These are the places,

receive tips for the most authentic and

full of charm and character, which you

top-quality shopping addresses.

can read about in chapter 4. Five ‘new arrivals’ to the city will also tell you about

The three inspiring walking routes in-

their favourite places in town.

cluded in chapter 2 will take you to all the most beautiful spots in town. The

Staying a bit longer in the region?

detailed city plan – which you can sim-

Chapter 5 suggests a number of excur-

ply fold out of the back cover of this

sions to the other Flemish historical

guide – will make sure that you don’t

cities, the Bruges Wetlands and Wood-

lose your way.

lands, the coast, the Westhoek, the Lys valley, the Meetjesland (Creek Country)

Chapter 3 provides a summary of the many different possibilities for exploring Bruges and gives details of everything the city has to offer in cultural terms: a calendar of the most impor-

and the Flemish Ardennes. The choice is yours!

1 FO R E WO R D

In this guide you will discover Bruges’


Highlights of Bruges The 10 ‘classics’ you don’t want to miss   Rozenhoedkaai and the Bruges canals, a typical city view

HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES

4

The Rozenhoedkaai (Rosary Quay) links the Belfry with the city’s network of canals, the true ‘veins’ of Bruges, and offers a unique and picturesque panoramic view. Hardly surprising, then, that the Rozenhoedkaai is the most popular photographic hot-spot in town! You can discover many more special places and hidden pearls during a boat trip on the canals. From the water, Bruges is even more enchanting. A classic that you really don’t want to miss.

Markt: an absolute must The vibrant centre of the city has been dominated for centuries by the 83-metre high Belfry. Today, you can climb right to the top of this impressive tower. You will be rewarded with a spectacular view of Bruges and the surrounding countryside. The Markt (Market Square) is also home to the Historium, a top attraction that takes you back in time to the city’s medieval past. Ringed with colourful houses, the Market Square is also the regular standing place for the famous horse-drawn carriages. (Read more on pages 76 and 84-85)


Medieval splendour on the Burg The Burg is the beating heart of the city. From the 14th century town hall, which is the oldest in the Low Countries, Bruges has been governed for more than 600 years. This majestic architectural square also contains the Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, the former Civil Registry and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. No other location in Bruges bears greater testimony to the city’s former wealth.

Strolling through the old Hansa Quarter From the 13th to the 15th century, Bruges was the most important trading centre in North-West Europe. Spanish merchants settled along the Spaanse Loskaai (Spanish Quay) and in the Spanjaardstraat. The Germans or Easterners – ‘oosterlingen’ in Dutch – took up residence in the Oosterlingenplein. In this old Hansa Quarter you can admire the mansions of the wealthy international merchants and the great trading nations of the day. You can almost still smell the atmosphere of the Middle Ages.

The Flemish primitives: timeless beauty In Bruges’ Golden Age – the 15th century – art was king. Leading artists of the day, like Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling, came to live and work in the city. Today, you can marvel at the masterpieces of the world-famous Flemish primitives in the Groeninge Museum and the St. John’s Hospital. Here you can come face to face with the great paintings that were created in the city all those centuries ago. (Read more on pages 84 and 90)

5 HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES

(Read more on pages 75, 79 and 92)


Practical information Accessibility

P R A CT I CA L I N FO R M AT I O N

12

If you see the symbol in this guide, this means that provision has been made for people with disabilities. Further details about the level of accessibility can be found tourist information offices. at the

Bicycle rental points » Bauhaus Bike Rental LOCATION > Langestraat 145 PRICE > 3 hours: € 6.00; full day: € 10.00 OPEN > Daily, 8.00 a.m.-9.00 p.m. (bikes must be returned by 9.00 p.m.) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 10 93, www.bauhaus.be/services/bike-rental B-Bike Concertgebouw » LOCATION > Concertgebouw, ’t Zand PRICE > 1 hour: € 4.00; 5 hours: € 8.00; full day: € 12.00. Tandem, 5 hours: € 14.00;

full day: € 22.00. Electric bike, full day: € 20.00 OPEN > During the period 1/3 to 1/12: daily, 10.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. INFO > Tel. +32 (0)479 97 12 80, info@b-bike.be Bruges Bike Rental » LOCATION > Niklaas Desparsstraat 17 PRICE > 1 hour: € 4.00; 2 hours: € 7.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 13.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 10.00. Tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 2 hours: € 15.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 25.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 22.00 OPEN > During the period 1/2 to 31/12: daily, 10.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1 and 25/12 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 61 61 08, www.brugesbikerental.be


» De Ketting LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 23 PRICE > Full day: € 7.00. Electric bike, full day: € 20.00 OPEN > During the period 1/4 to 15/10: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. and Sunday, 10.30 a.m.-6.00 p.m.; during the period 16/10 to 31/3: Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 41 96, www.deketting.be

Eric Popelier » LOCATION > Mariastraat 26 PRICE > 1 hour: € 5.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00. Electric bike or tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00 OPEN > During the period 15/3 to 15/10: daily, 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; during the period 16/10 to 14/3: daily, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1, 25/5 and 25/12, closed on Monday in January and December INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 32 62, www.fietsenpopelier.be Fietspunt Station » LOCATION > Hendrik Brugmansstraat 3 (Stationsplein) PRICE > 1 hour: € 6.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00. Electric bike, 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00 OPEN > Monday to Friday, 7.00 a.m7.00 p.m.; during the period 1/5 to 30/9:

Koffieboontje » LOCATION > Hallestraat 4 PRICE > 1 hour: € 5.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 11.25. Tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 22.50 OPEN > Daily, 9.00 a.m.-10.00 p.m. INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 33 80 27, www.bikerentalkoffieboontje.be Snuffel Hostel » LOCATION > Ezelstraat 42 PRICE > Full day: € 8.00 OPEN > Daily, 8.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. (bikes have to be returned by 8.00 p.m.) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 33 31 33, www.snuffel.be Steershop » LOCATION > Havenstraat 3 PRICE > City bike, full day: € 10.00. Racing or touring bike, full day: € 25.00; per extra day: € 15.00. Bikes must be reserved online. OPEN > Tuesday to Saturday, 2.00 p.m.7.00 p.m. (collecting bikes between 8.00 a.m. and 12.00 p.m. is possible following reservation online) EXTRA > Guided tours (see pages 155-156) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)474 40 84 01, www.steershop.be Most of the bicycle rental points ask for the payment of a guarantee.

Bike taxi A bike taxi will bring you to your destination in an ecological way.

13 P R A CT I CA L I N FO R M AT I O N

Electric Scooters » Rental of electric bikes. LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 55 en 62 PRICE > 2 hours: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 18.00; full day: € 30.00 OPEN > During the period 1/4 to 31/10: Wednesday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.6.00 p.m. EXTRA > Rental of electric scooters (see pages 20-21) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)474 09 19 18, www.electric-scooters.be

also during weekends and on holidays, 9.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 1/1 to 3/1 and 25/12 to 31/12 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 39 68 26 fietspunt.brugge@groepintro.be


Shopping in Bruges

Bruges has lots of shops to offer you something special: authentic places that surprise you again and again with their clever and original products. The city is rightly famous for its harmonious mix of creative and trendy newcomers, vintage addresses where nostalgia rules, and classic establishments that have been run with success for decades by the same family.


Where to shop?

a Sunday. Many specialist stores are

Because Bruges is pedestrian-friendly

open on Sunday as well. And on ‘Shop-

and the main streets are all close to

ping Sundays’ – the first Sunday of the month, except on public holidays, from

much more relaxing than in many other

1.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. – they are joined by

cities. You will find all the major national

the majority of the other shops. To make

and international chains, as well as

your shopping experience more pleas-

trendy local boutiques. And if you leave

ant, there is restricted access for traffic

the beaten shopping paths you will cer-

on Saturdays and ‘Shopping Sundays’ in

tainly make plenty of interesting new

the following shopping streets:

discoveries. The most important shop-

Zuidzandstraat, Steenstraat, Geldmunt-

ping streets (indicated in yellow on the

straat and Noordzandstraat (from

removable city map) run between the

1.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m.).

Market Square and the old city gates: traat, Zuidzandstraat, Sint-Jakob-

Bruges’ craftspersons and specialty stores

sstraat, Sint-Amandsstraat, Geldmunt-

Creativity is built into the DNA of the peo-

straat, Noordzandstraat, Smedenstraat,

ple of Bruges; so it should come as no

Vlamingstraat, Academiestraat, Philip-

surprise to anyone that nowadays the

stockstraat, Hoogstraat, Langestraat

city is teeming with innovative entrepre-

and Katelijnestraat. There is also a

neurs. In the charming craft shops you

small but elegant shopping centre, the

are guaranteed to find an original, hand-

Zilverpand, hidden between Noordzand-

made gift to surprise your family and

straat and Zuidzandstraat. Each neigh-

friends back home. Surf to www.hand

bourhood has its own unique atmos-

madeinbrugge.be and discover dozens

phere. In Steenstraat, for example, you

of fun addresses and inspiring stories.

will find the famous brand names,

Also check out the official city app Xplore

whereas Langestraat boasts many little

Bruges, which will take you to all the

Steenstraat, Simon Stevinplein, Marias-

secondhand and bric-à-brac shops. The large hypermarkets are located just outside the city centre.

When to shop? Most shops operate from Monday to Saturday, opening at 10.00 a.m. and closing at either 6.00 or 6.30 p.m. But this does not mean that you need to go home empty-handed if you come to Bruges on

27 SHOPPING IN BRUGES

each other, a day’s shopping here is


Walk 1 Bruges, proud World Heritage City

Bruges may be, quite rightly, very proud of her World Heritage status, but the city is happily embracing the future too! This walk takes you along world-famous panoramic views, sky-high monuments and centuries-old squares invigorated by contemporary constructions. One foot planted in the Middle Ages, the other one firmly planted in the present. This walk is an absolute must for first-time visitors who would like to explore the very heart of the city straight away. Keep your camera at the ready!


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From ’t Zand to Simon Stevinplein tourist office

’t Zand (Concertgebouw). ’t Zand is dominated by the Concert Hall

Bruges’ oldest parish church is located

18 , one of Bruges’ most talked-about

B R U G E S , P R O U D WO R L D H E R I TA G E C I T Y

street on the right. Saint Saviour’s Cathedral 23 looms up ahead on your right after three hundred metres.

This walk starts at the

34

turn into Zuidzandstraat, the first

on a lower level than the present

buildings. Clear-cut proof that this

Zuidzandstraat, which is situated on an

World Heritage city isn’t afraid of the fu-

old sand ridge. What’s more, in the

ture. As of September 2017 the Concert

Middle Ages people simply threw their

Hall – Open House 18 will take you be-

refuse out onto the street where it was

hind the scenes and right to the very top

then flattened by passing carts and

of this magnificent building, where you

coaches. This raised the street level

can find an interactive space for sound

even further. Inside Saint Saviour’s, the

art. You can also enjoy the wonderful

church tower’s wooden rafters can be

view over the Bruges skyline. Don’t for-

lit. The cathedral treasury displays in-

get to drop in at the

teresting copper memorial plaques, fine

tourist office

’t Zand (Concertgebouw) on the ground

examples of gold and silver and paint-

floor: here you will find all the necessary

ings by Dieric Bouts, Hugo van der Goes

tourist information as well as expert ad-

and Pieter Pourbus.

vice on all cultural events. Continue past the cathedral and Leave

’t Zand (Concertgebouw) be-

hind you, walk along the square and

walk down Sint-Salvatorskerkhof immediately on the right. Turn left 18


into Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat. The

Return to the Belfry 05 and walk

Simon Stevinplein opens up at the

down Breidelstraat, a traffic-free alley

end of this street.

on the corner at the left. Continue

This attractive square, lined with cosy

to the Burg square.

restaurant terraces in summertime, is

Along the way on your right you will no-

named after Simon Stevin, a wellknown

tice De Garre, a narrow alley. This may

Flemish-Dutch scientist. His gracious

be the narrowest street in Bruges (try

statue naturally takes centre stage.

walking side by side here!), it neverthe-

Markt and Burg

less boasts a fair number of cosy cafés. The Burg is the most majestic square in the city, so take your time to admire its

the right-hand corner of the square.

grandeur. The main character in this

Before long you will see the Cloth Halls

medieval story is the City Hall 08 43

09 on your left. These belong to the

(1376-1420), one of the oldest city halls

Belfry 05 . You’re allowed to cross the

in the Netherlands and a Gothic exam-

halls’ imposing inner court between

ple for all its brothers and sisters that

8.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. during the week,

were built later, from Louvain to Aude-

and between 9.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. on

narde and Brussels. Having admired its

Saturday. The Markt is at the other end

exterior, enter the impressive Gothic

of the yard. If the gate is closed, turn

Hall and gaze in admiration at the poly-

back and walk down Hallestraat, which

chrome floating ribs of the vaulted ceil-

runs parallel to the Halls.

ing. Hiding on the right-hand side of

Walk 2 (see pages 45-47) comments

this Gothic monument is the Basilica of

more extensively on Markt.

the Holy Blood 01 . It was originally dedicated to both Our Lady and Saint

BURG SQUARE: AN ARCHITECTURAL SYNOPSIS Art lovers have already noticed that the Burg projects a wonderful cross-section of stunning architectural styles. It is, indeed, a summing-up in one place of all the styles that have caught our imagination throughout the various centuries. From Romanesque (Saint Basil’s Church) and Gothic (City Hall) by way of Renaissance (Civil Registry) and Baroque (Deanery) to Classicism (Mansion of the Liberty of Bruges). There’s no need to go and dash all around Bruges to see it all!

35 B R U G E S , P R O U D WO R L D H E R I TAG E C I T Y

Continue down Oude Burg, a street in


past beneath your feet. Discover the history of the city through different kinds of search and hands-on activities. A fascinating mix of archaeological finds, riddles, replicas and reconstructions shed light on daily life in times gone by, from the home to the workplace and from birth till death.

Adornesdomein – Jeruzalemkapel (Adornes Estate – Jerusalem Chapel) 01 08

MUSEUMS, PLACES OF INTEREST AND ATTRACTIONS

74

OPEN > Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 a.m.-

12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m., last admission: 12.00 p.m. and 4.30 p.m. (open on Easter Monday and Whit Monday)

The Adornes domain consists of the

ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >

15th-century Jerusalem Chapel (a jewel

1/1, 25/5 (1.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.) and 25/12

of medieval architecture built by this

PRICE > € 4.00; 65+ and youngsters aged

rich merchant family), the Adornes

12 to 25: € 3.00; children under 12: free

mansion and a series of adjacent alms-

INFO > Mariastraat 36A, tel. +32 (0)50

houses. In the multimedia museum, you

44 87 43, www.museabrugge.be

can follow in the footsteps of Anselm Adornes and learn all about the world in

03

Arentshuis

which he lived. You will go on a pilgrim-

In this elegant 17th-century mansion with

age, take part in a joust and meet many

its picturesque garden, the work of the

notable persons of the time, such as the

versatile British artist Frank Brangwyn

King of Scotland, the Lords of Gruuthuse

(1867-1956) is on display on the top floor.

and the Dukes of Burgundy.

Brangwyn was both a graphic artist and

OPEN > Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-

a painter, as well as a designer of car-

5.00 p.m.

pets, furniture and ceramics. The

ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >

ground floor is the setting for temporary

All (Belgian) public holidays

plastic art exhibitions.

PRICE > € 7.00; 65+: € 5.00; youngsters

aged 7 to 25: € 3.50; children under 7: free INFO > Peperstraat 3A, tel. +32 (0)50

33 88 83, www.adornes.org 02 Archeologiemuseum (Archaeological Museum)

This museum presents the unwritten history of Bruges. Its motto: feel your


OPEN > Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 a.m.-

PRICE > Double church: free; treasury:

5.00 p.m., last admission: 4.30 p.m. (open

€ 2.50; children under 13: free

on Easter Monday and Whit Monday)

INFO > Burg 13, tel. +32 (0)50 33 67 92,

ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES >

www.holyblood.com

1/1, 25/5 (1.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.) and 25/12 aged 12 to 25: € 3.00; children under 12:

02 02 04 Begijnhof (Beguinage)

free; combination ticket with Groeninge

The ‘Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde’

Museum possible (see page 84)

with its white-coloured house fronts,

INFO > Dijver 16, tel. +32 (0)50 44 87 43,

tranquil convent garden and beguinage

www.museabrugge.be

museum was founded in 1245. This little

PRICE > € 4.00; 65+ and youngsters

home of the beguines, emancipated lay-women who nevertheless led a pious and celibate life. Today the beguinage is

The double church, dedicated to Our

inhabited by nuns of the Order of St.

Lady and Saint Basil in the 12th century

Benedict and several Bruges women

and a basilica since 1923, consists of a

who have decided to remain unmarried.

lower church that has maintained its

In the Beguine’s house, you can still get a

Romanesque character and a

good idea of what day-to-day life was like

neo-Gothic upper church, in which the

in the 17th century.

relic of the Holy Blood is preserved.

OPEN > Beguinage: daily, 6.30 a.m.-

The treasury, with numerous valuable

6.30 p.m.; Beguine’s house: Monday to

works of art, is also worth a visit.

Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m.; Sunday

OPEN > Daily, 9.30 a.m.-12.00 p.m. and

2.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m.

2.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.; during the period

PRICE > Beguinage: free; Beguine’s

16/11 to 31/3 closed on Wednesday after-

house: € 2.00; 65+: € 1.50; children

noon. Veneration of the relic: daily, 11.30

aged 8 to 12 and students (on display of

a.m.-12.00 p.m. and 2.00 p.m.-4.00 p.m.

a valid student card): € 1.00

75 MUSEUMS, PLACES OF INTEREST AND ATTRACTIONS

01 Basiliek van het Heilig Bloed (Basilica of the Holy Blood)

piece of world heritage was once the


What’s on the programme in 2017? The list below shows some of the most important events taking place in Bruges. You can also find the same details in the monthly event calendar that you can pick up free of charge from the

tourist information offices on the Markt (Historium), ’t Zand

(Concertgebouw) and in the Railway station. And, of course, for a detailed events calendar you can always consult the website at www.visitbruges.be.

C U LT U R E A N D A M U S E M E N T

96

Bach Academie

Wintervonken (Winter Sparks)

17/1/2017 – 22/1/2017

10/2/2017 and 11/2/2017

Bach learned his music at his mother’s

Winter Sparks brings warmth and convi-

knee, but in 1705 he set off on foot to

viality to the Burg square. The fourth edi-

Lübeck to become an apprentice of

tion of this winter festival once again

Buxtehude, whose flawless piano tech-

guarantees scintillating street theatre,

nique and Abendmusiken concerts were

atmospheric concerts and heart-

without a doubt an enormous source of

warming fire installations.

inspiration to the young Bach. The se-

INFO > www.wintervonken.be

venth Bruges Bach Academy explores the musical richness of the Protestant

B Major!

Reformation, with a focus on choral

1/3/2017 – 5/3/2017

works.

B Major! is a new biannual music festival

INFO > www.concertgebouw.be (You can

in which all the professional musical ac-

read more about Bach and early music in

tors in Bruges join forces. The result is

the interview with Albert Edelman on

an exciting five-day programme, speci-

pages 120-123)

ally made in the city for the city. INFO > www.bmajor.be

Brugs Bierfestival (Bruges Beer Festival)

More Music!

4/2/2017 and 5/2/2017

12/4/2017 – 15/4/2017

For a whole weekend the courtyard of

The Bruges Concert Hall and the Cactus

the Belfry, the city halls and the Market

Music Centre once again join forces to

Square are the place to be for anyone

make More Music!, an exciting encoun-

who wants to learn more about Belgian

ter between diverse and contrasting

beers, old and new! The festival brings

musical worlds. The result is an intri-

together more than 80 Belgian brewe-

guing total concept that takes the visitor

ries, which account for the production

on an adventurous four-day voyage of

of more than 360 different beers.

musical discovery.

INFO > www.brugsbierfestival.be

INFO > www.moremusicfestival.be


Mooov filmfestival 19/4/2017 – 27/4/2017 This film festival, screened in Cinema Lumière and Cinema Liberty, shows the best new films from Africa, Asia and South America. The programme covers both artistically innovative movies and films with a social conscience. INFO > www.mooov.be

CARILLON CONCERTS Throughout the year, you can enjoy free, live carillon concerts in Bruges

5/5/2017 – 14/5/2017

on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sun-

A new biannual literary festival that in-

days from 11.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m.

vites international writers to offer their

From mid-June to mid-September,

own views of Bruges in words. You can

evening concerts also take place on

discover the resulting stories, manifes-

Mondays and Wednesdays from 9.00

tos and ‘urban legends’ by following a

p.m. to 10.00 p.m. The inner courtyard

special route that leads through the

of the Belfry is a good place to listen.

heart of the city.

INFO > www.carillon-brugge.be

INFO > www.brutaalbrugge.be

Meifoor (May Fair)

Dwars door Brugge

5/5/2017 – 28/5/2017

(Running through Bruges)

For three fun-filled weeks some

May 2017

90 fairground attractions ‘take over’

About 7,000 runners set off on a 15 km

’t Zand, the Beursplein, the Koning

route through the city. This unique run-

Albertpark and the Simon Stevinplein.

ning event through the historic centre of Bruges is no longer just popular with

Memling in Context

local people, but now attracts competi-

A fresh look at Hans Memling’s paintings

tors from all over the world. For the

of the Saint John’s Hospital

lesser gods, there is a 5 km course and

11/5/2017 – 8/10/2017

a Kids Run is organized for children up

The best way to learn about the mas-

to 12 years of age.

terpieces of Hans Memling, one of the

INFO > www.brugge.be

greatest of the Flemish primitives, is to view them within the context of the

Budapest Festival

wider collection of the St. John’s Hospi-

18/5/2017 – 20/5/2017

tal. This new presentation sheds new

A three-day festival of music with con-

light on his remarkably rich oeuvre.

certs by the renowned Budapest Festival

INFO > www.museabrugge.be

Orchestra, conducted by Iván Fischer.

97 C U LT U R E A N D A M U S E M E N T

BruTaal


Bruges: World Heritage city Sonia Papili reveals the Italian side of Bruges

During the week, the Italian Sonia Papili studies the North Sea with academic sobriety; during the weekend she guides her fellow countrymen with great passion around her adopted city. A passion that began gradually some eleven years ago, but now burns more brightly than ever.


ID-KIT Name: Sonia Papili Nationality: Italian Date of birth: 17 May 1972 Living in Bruges since 2006. Sonia is a geologist with the Ministry of Defence and a tourist guide in Bruges.

Two geologists – him attached to the

ty and temperament. And he was right: Bruges really is my city!’

University of Rome – who met on a ship

In the meantime, Sonia learnt Dutch

in Istanbul to discuss climate change:

and started work here as a geologist.

there are worse ways to start a

During her citizenship programme, she

long-distance relationship. For three

became more and more curious about

years, the pair commuted back and

the history of her new home town. ‘Dur-

forth between Italy and Belgium, before

ing the language course they told us a

finally deciding to settle in Bruges.

little bit about the history of the place.

‘I had only been in Bruges once before,’

This intrigued me and so I decided to

says Sonia. ‘I was much more familiar

follow a three-year course to become

with Ghent, but my husband thought

an official guide in Bruges.’

that Bruges better suited my personali-

‘I was much more familiar with Ghent, but my husband thought that Bruges better suited my personality and temperament. And he was right: Bruges really is my city!’ WHY BRUGES IS A WORLD HERITAGE CITY In 1998, the Bruges Beguinage was recognized as a World Heritage site. A year later, the Belfry received similar recognition. In 2000, this was extended to cover the entire city centre. Since 2009, the Holy Blood Procession has been listed as an item of immaterial World Heritage. Bruges also has a valuable and impressive architectural patrimony and is a fine example of an architecturally harmonious city. In particular, Bruges is famed for its Gothic style buildings in brick. In addition, its authentic and organically developed medieval urban fabric has been perfectly preserved and it is also the ‘birthplace’ of the Flemish primitives. In other words, reasons enough for UNESCO to label Bruges as a ‘World Heritage city’.

105 B R U G E S : WO R L D H E R I TA G E C I T Y

University of Ghent, her attached to the


The other Flemish historical cities

Antwerp (Antwerpen)

82 km

It is hard to describe Antwerp in a single word. This historic city has so much to

T H E OT H E R F L E M I S H H I S TO R I CA L C I T I E S

146

offer: a beautiful cathedral and numer-

ges and Antwerp (journey time: ca. 1.30 hours; www.belgianrail.be).

Brussels (Brussel)

88 km

ous imposing churches, a magnificent

The whole world comes together in Brus-

Central Station, the ground-breaking

sels, with a different continent around

Museum on the River (MAS), the tranquil

every corner. It is a city bursting with life,

Rubens House, a delightful sculpture

from the exotic Matonge quarter to the

garden (Middelheim), a zoo with a history

stately elegance of the European institu-

and so much more. Antwerp is also Bel-

tions. The capital of Belgium has a vi-

gium’s fashion capital, home to many in-

brancy like no other and the formality of

ternationally renowned designers. That

its ‘hard’ metropolitan structure is sof-

is why in the Scheldt city you will find

tened by the authentic, working-class

dozens of exclusive boutiques, rubbing

ambiance of its more popular districts. In

shoulders with fun bric-a-brac shops

the shadow of the majestic Market

where you can browse for hours: it’s

Square, Manneken-Pis is permanently

every fashionista’s dream! Not surpris-

peeing. And this diverse city even knows

ingly, the local ‘Antwerpenaars’ – who

how to reconcile the chic sophistication of

are fairly loud by nature – are extremely

the Zavel with the folksy informality of the

proud of their city.

Vossenplein. Royalty watchers rush

INFO > www.visitantwerpen.be; there is

eagerly to the Paleizenplein, art lovers

a direct train connection between Bru-

can do their thing at one of the more than


twisted trunks add to the charm of the

the Magritte Museum, the BOZAR (Muse-

setting. You can also experience their

um of Fine Arts) or the Horta Museum,

beauty from the water. The nostalgic

foodies hurry to the numerous food tem-

paddle steamer Lamme Goedzak travels

ples, and vintage-lovers climb to the top

leisurely and in style to and fro between

of the Atomium. And in the city where

the small medieval town and Bruges’

both Tintin and the Smurfs were born,

Noorweegse Kaai (Norwegian Quay).

comic lovers will have their every wish

And every second Sunday of the month,

fulfilled, with more than 50 comic-strip

Damme is transformed into a book cen-

walls and a renowned Comics Museum.

tre, as booksellers from near and far

INFO > visit.brussels; there is

come together to display their wares!

a direct train connection between

INFO > www.toerismedamme.be; sched-

Bruges and Bruxelles-Central (Brus-

uled bus no. 43 (not on Saturday, Sunday

sels-Central, journey time: ca. 1.00 -

and public holidays, see www.delijn.be

1.15 hours; www.belgianrail.be).

for the time schedule), bus stop:

Damme

6 km

Damme Plaats; or by the paddle steamer Lamme Goedzak, www.bootdamme-

To the north-east of Bruges lies the

brugge.be (For more information see

charming town of Damme. Until the silt-

page 67). You can also easily cycle to

ing up of the tidal inlet Zwin, Damme

Damme (for bicycle rental points see pag-

was the transhipment port of Bruges. To

es 12-13) or hire a scooter to ride there

reach the literary home of Tijl Uilen-

(see pages 20-21 for scooter rental points).

spiegel (Owlglass), you drive straight along the banks of the Damse Vaart

Ghent (Gent)

39 km

(Damme Canal), which is without doubt

No other people are as stubborn and as

one of the most beautiful pieces of na-

self-willed as the people of Ghent – or the

ture in all Belgium. The canal is lined

Gentenaars, as they are known. It is built

with magnificent poplars, some of which

into their genes. In the Middle Ages, the

are over 100 years old. Their wind-

‘Gentenaars’ revolted against Emperor

147 T H E OT H E R F L E M I S H H I S TO R I C A L C I T I E S

hundred museums and galleries, such as


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