THE
AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
YOURLITTLEBLACKBOOK.ME
Cottoncake 6
AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
CONTENTS GOOD TO KNOW • 365 Days • Go Native • Getting Around • Eating Habits
12 13 14 15 15 16
BUCKET LIST
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SHORT LISTS
20 21 25 28 30 31 32 35 36 37 38 41
• 15 x Finest Hotels • 28 x Best Restaurants • 22 x Breakfast, Lunch & Brunch • 11 x Nicest Markets • 8 x Vintage Shops • 16 x Delicious Coffee • 16 x Unique Concept Stores • 12 x Red Light District • 6 x Chinatown • 9 x Summer in the City • 16 x Nightlife
24/48/72 HOURS IN … • 24 Hours in Amsterdam • 48 Hours in Amsterdam • 72 Hours in Amsterdam
EAST • Bucket List • Tour 1 • Food & Drink • Shopping
43 44 46 48 50 53 54 56 66
AMSTERDAM-WEST & DE BAARSJES • Bucket List • Tour 3 • Food & Drink • Shopping
JORDAAN & WESTERPARK • Bucket List • Tour 4 • Food & Drink • Shopping
THE CANAL DISTRICT & 9 STREETS • Bucket List • Tour 5 • Food & Drink • Shopping
NORTH • Bucket List • Tour 6 • Food & Drink • Shopping
INDEX
74 77 78 80 88
98 101 102 104 112 124 127 128 130 138
148 151 152 154 164 174 177 178 180 189 194 7
CONTENTS
OVERVIEW
DE PIJP • Bucket List • Tour 2 • Food & Drink • Shopping
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AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
IN LOVE WITH AMSTERDAM I wake up in a different city almost every week, but Amsterdam remains my most beloved. The Amsterdam City Guide, with my favourite spots in the nicest neighbourhoods in the city, is the crown jewel of Your Little Black Book. For as long as I can remember, I have dreamt of living in Amsterdam at least once in my life. As a young girl from the provinces, the city held something magical. That was where everything happened! Cycling along the canals, the shops, a cosy café on every street corner – Amsterdam has it all. As a teenager, I visited Amsterdam whenever I could, to shop, club or attend festivals. And now that I’ve lived here for ten years, I can say with my hand on my heart: Amsterdam and I belong together.
INTRO
My urban travel platform Your Little Black Book actually originated in this love affair with Amsterdam. Because what I love about cities is that there’s always something new to discover. So every day I share the best spots in the city on Yourlittlebackbook.me, and offer tips every weekend on things to do in Amsterdam. In so doing my site has grown to become the largest urban travel blog in the Netherlands. As a professional travel blogger, I am now living my dream and travelling the world! Cities are constantly changing: neighbourhoods that you previously wouldn’t stoop to visit are now the trendiest parts of the city. Concept stores are where it’s at when shopping for unique items. It’s there that you find carefully curated collections of items that come with a story. The restaurant scene has evolved from traditional brown cafés and bistros to the most beautifully designed restaurants and bars. Whether you’re after a five-course dinner or the day’s special, your taste buds will be satisfied with help from this City Guide. I love the diversity of Amsterdam, my big tiny city. Everything is here, and yet when you stroll through the neighbourhoods described in this book you feel as though you’re in a small town. From the rugged Amsterdam North to the up-and-coming Baarsjes, the beautiful canal district and the cosy Jordaan. I offer tips to check off your Amsterdam bucket list in every neighbourhood, and a tour of my personal favourite hotspots. To make your life even easier, I also provide shortlists, from the nicest coffee bars to where to go for breakfast or to shop. Enjoy! Love, Anne de Buck YOURLITTLEBLACKBOOK.ME | ANNE@YOURLITTLEBLACKBOOK.ME | @YOURLBB (ALL SOCIAL-MEDIA CHANNELS)
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@YOURLBB
GOOD TO KNOW
Central Station
Busy planning a trip to Amsterdam? Discover how to avoid looking like a tourist on your rented bicycle. Buy tickets for that awesome festival happening while you’re in town, and find out when you need to go casual or dress up to leave your hotel room or apartment. Discover Amsterdam like a proper local with these practical tips!
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AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
365 DAYS You can have the perfect city trip anytime of the year. Each season possesses its own charm and cool events not to miss while you’re in town!
Must-see events: • Amsterdam Fashionweek FASHIONWEEK.NL – JULY
• Dance festivals • Vondelpark open-air concerts OPENLUCHTTHEATER.NL – JULY & AUGUST
SPRING At the first hint of sunshine, everyone flocks to the city’s terraces. The foodfestival season starts again and the city turns orange on King’s Day.
AMSTERDAMGAYPRIDE.NL – AUGUST
• Grachtenfestival (Canal festival) GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL – AUGUST
• Artis ZOOmeravonden (Artis Zoo summer evenings)
GOOD TO KNOW
Must-see events: • King’s Day – 27 APRIL • Amsterdam Coffee Festival
• Gay Pride
ARTIS.NL – JUNE/AUGUST
• Sail SAIL.NL – ONCE EVERY FIVE YEARS
AMSTERDAMCOFFEEFESTIVAL.COM – MARCH
• Liberation Day – 5 MAY • De Rollende Keukens (food truck festival) ROLLENDEKEUKENS.AMSTERDAM – MAY
• Taste of Amsterdam
AUTUMN The season when nightlife once again moves back to the clubs, new restaurants throw open their doors and we descend on the pubs en masse with friends.
TASTEOFAMSTERDAM.COM – JUNE
• World Press Photo WORLDPRESSPHOTO.ORG – APRIL/JULY
• Opening of festival season – FROM APRIL
Must-see events: • Amsterdam Dance Event AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL – OCTOBER
• Jordaan Festival JORDAANFESTIVAL.NL – SEPTEMBER
SUMMER Amsterdam is awesome in the summer. Every week there’s a festival where you can dance the whole day through. Boats sail along the canals and the parks are packed with picnic rugs.
• Heritage Day OPENMONUMENTENDAG.NL – SEPTEMBER
• Museum Night MUSEUMNACHT.AMSTERDAM – NOVEMBER
• Amsterdam Marathon, TCSAMSTERDAMMARATHON.NL – OKTOBER
• IDFA IDFA.NL – NOVEMBER
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BUCKET LIST
Rollende Keukens
A bucket list of things every Amsterdammer and visitor ought to do in Amsterdam at least once in their lives: Popular and less well-known must-dos, from the classic and refined to the wild and new. Tick them off your bucket list one at a time. Too many to fit in a weekend, so you’ll always have a reason to return to Amsterdam.
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AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
Lookout at A’DAM Toren (Tower)
Barbecuing in the Vondelpark
Visit a café in Amsterdam’s Jordaan
NDSM Wharf
Amsterdam Museum
Museum of Bags & Purses
Tuschinski
Street Art Tour
Ferry to North
Cheese-tasting at Kef
Rijksmuseum
Gerard Doustraat
Food trucks in the Vondelpark
Brandt en Levie sausage workshop
Dinner at the Vuurtoreneiland
The Foodhallen
Sail along the canals
Concert at the Concertgebouw
Eat bitterballs
Dim sum at Oriental City
Stedelijk Museum
Festival at Ruigoord
Syrup cookies at the Albert Cuyp market
Haarlemmerstraat & Haarlemmerdijk
Eat dinner at Rijsel
Clubbing at De School
Sunday markets
Van Gogh Museum
Anne Frank House
De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets)
See Amsterdam from a rooftop
Koningsdag (King’s Day)
De Rollende Keukens (food truck festival)
Museum Night
Watch the sunset at Pllek
IJ-hallen
Tropenmuseum (Museum of the Tropics)
Eating raw haring
Beer-tasting at a craft brewery
Foam
Cycle through the Rijksmuseum tunnel
BUCKET LIST
Cycling along the canals
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@YOURLBB
SHORT LISTS
Rijsel
Lists with summaries of the best tips – this is something we love at Your Little Black Book. In these themed shortlists you’ll find all our favourites in a row. Because sometimes you’re simply not in the mood to search or read. From the best hotels to coffee bars, and from concept stores to nightlife.
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AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
15 X FINEST HOTELS
That you’ll only ever visit your hotel to sleep is no reason to pick an oldfashioned one. A nice hotel with both a decent bed and a beautiful interior can make a city trip even more enjoyable. You may want something very luxurious or romantic, something sleek, or something designerish on a budget. We’ve therefore created this shortlist of Amsterdam’s nicest hotels. you definitely should not miss. Breakfast is served at Remise47, where you can also get a tasty meal in the evening. 1
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HERENGRACHT 255, THEHOXTON.COM 2 Hotel De Hallen Hotel De Hallen is located in a former tram depot in Amsterdam Old-West. Rooms at this designer hotel have beautiful interiors and are very luxurious. Many of the building’s original details remain visible. You’ll find a cinema in the building next door, as well as indoor food market The Foodhallen, which
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BELLAMYPLEIN 47, HOTELDEHALLEN.COM 3 Conservatorium hotel You’ll find the Conservatorium hotel in a beautiful building next to the Museumplein, along with restaurant Taiko, one of the best Japanese restaurants in town. As the name suggests, the building once housed a conservatory. You will want for nothing if you stay here. Make sure you order room service for breakfast so you can enjoy your room a little longer. Then go relax in the luxurious Akasha Spa for a perfect start to the day. VAN BAERLESTRAAT 27, CONSERVATORIUMHOTEL.COM
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SHORTLISTS
1 The Hoxton You don’t go to The Hoxton just to sleep. The lobby is popular with trendy locals meeting for coffee or cocktails. The rooms are slickly designed, and with a bit of luck you’ll get one overlooking the canals. Hang your breakfast bag on your outer doorknob and your breakfast will be ready by the door by the time you wake up. Cool events are organised weekly at The Hoxton.
@YOURLBB
24 HOURS
24 HOURS IN AMSTERDAM In Amsterdam for a layover or a fun day out? Start your day in De Pijp, do something cultural and go from hotspot to hotspot. Today, Tour 2, which begins on the Gerard Doustraat.
9 A.M. breakfast De Wasserette in cosy De Pijp has for years been one of the nicest spots for a good breakfast. They open early, offer delicious coffee and their menu lists lots of tasty sandwiches. DE WASSERETTE, EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 27, DEWASSERETTE.COM
11:30 A.M. lunch You can enjoy tasty and healthy dishes at CT coffee & coconuts, and it’s one of Amsterdam’s most beautiful hotspots. CT COFFEE & COCONUTS, CEINTUURBAAN 282-284, CTAMSTERDAM.NL
10 A.M. Gerard Doustraat Gerard Doustraat is De Pijp’s hipster street, lined with beautiful concept stores and specialty shops.
1 P.M. museum Close to De Pijp is the Museumplein, with Amsterdam’s three iconic museums: the Rijksmuseum, the Stedelijk Museum and the Van Gogh Museum. Go see an exhibition that suits your taste.
GERARD DOUSTRAAT
• RIJKSMUSEUM, MUSEUMSTRAAT 1, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL
11 A.M. Albert Cuyp Market A stroll through De Pijp is incomplete without a visit to the Albert Cuyp market, where the most delicious syrup waffles in Amsterdam are sold.
9 A.M. Breakfast
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10 A.M. Gerard Doustraat
• STEDELIJK MUSEUM, MUSEUMPLEIN 10, STEDELIJK.NL • VAN GOGH MUSEUM, MUSEUMPLEIN 6, VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL
11 A.M. Albert Cuyp Market
11.30 A.M. Lunch
AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
Take a taxi (9 minutes) or walk (20 minutes) via the Spiegelstraat and Prinsengracht to the Runstraat in the Nine Streets. From there we continue Tour 5 in the Canal District and the Nine Streets.
• SALMUERA, ROZENGRACHT 106-H, SALMUERA.NL
24/48/72 HOURS IN
3 P.M. The Nine Streets The cosy Nine Streets connects the Prinsengracht and the Singel, and is a mecca for those who love specialty stores. Here you’ll find the flagship stores of beautiful brands, vintage shops and concept stores, surrounded by with coffee and lunch spots. For a coffee break we recommend the Reestraat, where you’ll find Pluck and Ree7, among others.
7 P.M. early dinner There’s no shortage of good restaurants in Amsterdam. And it is of course much more fun to eat at a hidden gem than at a restaurant you could easily have found without this guide. Here, therefore, are suggestions for four restaurants where you are guaranteed a fine evening. Each very different from the rest, but all with great service and delicious food. • DE LUWTE, LELIEGRACHT 26, RESTAURANTDELUWTE.NL • TALES & SPIRITS, LIJNBAANSSTEEG 5, TALESANDSPIRITS.COM • CAFÉ DE KLEPEL, PRINSENSTRAAT 22, CAFEDEKLEPEL.NL
DE9STRAATJES.AMSTERDAM
5 P.M. drinks The Hoxton’s lobby isn’t only for hotel guests. The interior and vibe give you the feeling of being not in Amsterdam, but Brooklyn (NY). It’s a nice spot for a drink, around the corner from the Nine Streets and close to the Jordaan.
AFTER DINNER Still fancy a cocktail after dinner? Then go to Vesper around the corner of the Haarlemmerstraat. VESPER, VINKENSTRAAT 57, VESPERBAR.NL
THE HOXTON AMSTERDAM, HERENGRACHT 255, THEHOXTON.COM
1 P.M. Museum
3 P.M. The Nine Streets
5 P.M. Drinks
7 P.M. Early dinner
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EAST
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AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
EAST
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@YOURLBB
Roest
Amsterdam East has undergone a radical transformation in the past five years. From multicultural district with the Dapper Market as its beating heart to hipster neighbourhood with one hotspot after the other opening its doors. It has beautiful parks, like the Oosterpark and Frankendael Park, surrounded by stately buildings and lively food markets. But the district is also home to the raw Wibautstraat, the Beukenplein with its abundance of terraces, trendy Javastraat and the up-and-coming Czaar Peterstraat. It is this diversity that makes Amsterdam East so popular with locals. 52
AMSTERDAM CITY GUIDE
BUCKET LIST
the seventh floor, and offers not only tasty food, but also fantastic views of the city below from its roof terrace. WIBAUTSTRAAT 150, VOLKSHOTEL.NL, 020-2612110, METRO: 51, 53 & 54 – WIBAUTSTRAAT, TRAM: 3 – WIBAUTSTRAAT/RUYSCHSTRAAT
24 Tropenmuseum The Tropenmuseum is devoted to world cultures and is housed in a magnificent building on the edge of the Oosterpark. A must not only for the changing exhibitions that comment on the current zeitgeist, but also because of the museum’s lovely café. The terrace of the Grand Café De Tropen on the balcony of the museum is a must in the summer. LINNAEUSSTRAAT 2, TROPENMUSEUM.NL, 0880042800, TRAM: 9 – EERSTE VAN SWINDENSTRAAT
5 Canvas & de Volkshotel rooftop You could probably count Amsterdam’s rooftop terraces on one hand, but they’re certainly worth visiting for a bit of that New York feeling. When in East, check out the hip Volkshotel, where you can sleep, work, eat and club. Canvas restaurant is on
25 Javastraat The trendy Javastraat is one of the nicest streets in East. This part of the East is also called the East-Indian neighbourhood. You’ll find many authentic local shops here, with products from all around the world. Alongside the Turkish greengrocer you will now also find nice coffee bars, fine restaurants, cosy cafés to drink in and concept stores. 8 Park Frankendael & Pure Markt Once a city nursery providing Amsterdammers with fresh vegetables, now a beautiful park where you can enjoy a lovely stroll. In the park stands Amsterdam’s only remaining country estate: Huize Frankendael. After your walk, you can enjoy a drink here in the Merkelbach restaurant. The park hosts regular events, including the Pure Market, which takes place almost every month on Sunday – the place to be for traditional food and a culinary afternoon. HUIZEFRANKENDAEL.NL, PUREMARKT.NL
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EAST
19 Oosterpark Oosterpark is East Amsterdammers’ back garden. The park has recently undergone renovations, and it is now a lovely place for a stroll, a picnic or a jog. There are lots of cosy neighbourhood cafés near the Oosterpark, as is the Tropenmuseum.
YOURLITTLEBLACKBOOK.ME
NIEUWE ZIJDE
EAST
CENTRUM Nieuwmarkt
TOUR 1
10 &KLEVERING
32 NELIS
11 BAR WISSE
33 DRAAGBAAR
12 HET FAIRE OOSTEN
34 DIV. DAMESBOUDOIR
13 MICHEL-INN 14 OLIVES & MORE
35 WILDE ZWIJNEN & EETBAR WILDE ZWIJNEN
15 THULL’S
36 KEF
16 EDDY SPAGHETTI
37 CP113
17 COFFEE BRU
38 MAGAZIN
18 BAR BUKOWSKI
39 WORSCHT
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FOOD& DRINK
23 LOUIE LOUIE Housed in a beautiful large building overlooking the Oosterpark and offering a warm welcome from early morning till late evening, Louie Louie is the living room of the East for breakfast, lunch or just a coffee or drinks. The menu is inspired by Latin American cuisine. The volume of the music typically goes up a notch as evening becomes night. LINNAEUSSTRAAT 13, LOUIELOUIE.NL, TRAM: 9 – EERSTE VAN SWINDENSTRAAT
TIP! Book a table in advance to secure your spot at the fashionable restaurants.
6 RIJSEL Rijsel is jam-packed every night of the week. Which isn’t surprising, since here it’s all about pure and authentic food inspired by French cuisine. The menu changes frequently and always includes delicious three-course options. This unique restaurant, with its huge open kitchen and vintage furniture, is located in a former domestic science school. Reservations are a must! MARCUSSTRAAT 52, RIJSEL.COM, 0204632142, TRAM: 3 – WIBAUTSTRAAT/ RUYSCHSTRAAT, TRAM: 12 – STATION AMSTERDAM AMSTEL, METRO: 51, 53 & 54 – WIBAUTSTRAAT
3 STEK If you’re looking for a nice spot for breakfast or lunch, go to Stek on the Wibautstraat. Don’t be put off by the building’s somewhat ugly exterior. Inside it’s both cosy and industrial: sturdy wooden tables, wild flowers in vases, and old school chairs. The menu offers a variety of sandwiches, salads and soups, and Stek also serves drinks at weekends. WIBAUTSTRAAT 95, STEK-AMSTERDAM.COM, METRO: 51, 53, & 54 – WIBAUTSTRAAT, TRAM: 3 – WIBAUTSTRAAT/RUYSCHSTRAAT
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11 BAR WISSE You can spend the entire day at Bar Wisse on the Linneauskade, from early morning until late at night. With its cheerful blue façade, this is a bar where you feel at home immediately and can get a good meal anytime of the day. The wall mural and beautiful bar are quite eye-catching. In summertime Bar Wisse has a terrace next to the water. LINNAEUSKADE 1A, 020-2219228, TRAM: 9 – HOGE WEG OR PRETORIUSSTRAAT
18 BAR BUKOWSKI There are all sorts of food and drink spots on the Beukenplein in East and Bar Bukowski is one of the favourites. A quintessential all-day hotspot, open from breakfast-time until late at night. This cosy café serves delicious Flammkuchen,
EAST
Bar Bukowski
boasts a sunny terrace during the summer months, and at weekends one area becomes Henry’s Bar, where you can order and enjoy delicious cocktails! OOSTERPARK 10, BARBUKOWSKI.NL, 020-3701685, TRAM: 3 & 7 – BEUKENWEG
17 COFFEE BRU For the best coffee in the up-and-coming Beukenplein, go to Coffee Bru. It’s cosy inside, so chances are you’ll be staying for more than one coffee. Light wood, lots of green plants and a small terrace in the summer. They serve the most delicious cakes to go with the coffee, such as the Red Velvet Cake. You can also have breakfast and lunch here. BEUKENPLEIN 14, COFFEEBRU.NL, 020-7519956, TRAM: 3 & 7 – BEUKENWEG
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SHOPPING
27 HARTJE OOST Hartje Oost revolves around two things: great coffee and interesting brands. Have breakfast or lunch here and choose from a selection of homemade dishes prepared with local ingredients, wherever possible. Then shop in the store for the latest must-haves. You’ll find a well-curated collection at this store on the Javastraat, from fashion to accessories and from vintage to self-designed items.
TIP! Fill up a picnic basket with goodies from Kef and Worscht and visit the Oosterpark.
33 DRAAGBAAR Nowadays as you walk through Javastraat, you should also check out the side streets. On the Sumatrastraat you’ll find Draagbaar, a concept store: shop and hair salon under one roof. They only work with organic products in the salon, leaving your hair silky smooth. The store is stocked with beautiful products from up-and-coming designers, including many from Amsterdam. SUMATRASTRAAT 54, DRAAGBAAR.NU, TRAM: 7 – MOLUKKENSTRAAT
15 THULL’S The term ‘Amsterdam pickles’ is truly honoured at Thull’s in Pretoriusstraat. It’s all about pickles at this unique food shop: pickled vegetables of all kinds. The lunch menu has a long list of specialty sandwiches with authentic toppings that you don’t often see anymore on Amsterdam menus. And that’s what makes Thull’s such a nice hidden gem. Tip: You can also order everything to go, from evening meals to homemade preserves for the pantry.
JAVASTRAAT 23, HARTJEOOST.NL, 0202332137, TRAM: 7 – MOLUKKENSTRAAT
PRETORIUSSTRAAT 69, THULLS.NL, 020-3635474, TRAM: 7 – BEUKENWEG Thull’s 66
10 &KLEVERING Those who love shopping for beautiful home accessories should remember the name &Klevering. Here you’ll find the most original items that are always on trend. This store has several branches in town, and the one in East is on the Middenweg. Those looking for a special gift, new crockery or home accessories have come to the right place. MIDDENWEG 38, KLEVERING.NL, 020-3637354, TRAM: 9 – HOGEWEG
37 CP113 At concept store CP113, named after the abbreviation of the street name and the address number, you’ll find everything collected under one roof. This is where to shop for trendy brand-name clothes, curated from around the world. But
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Hartje Oost
you can also buy vintage items and fun accessories. And did we mention that you can unwind here over a cup of coffee, too? CZAAR PETERSTRAAT 113, CP113.COM, 020-2231976, TRAM: 14 – PONTANUSSTRAAT, TRAM: 10 – EERSTE LEEGH WATERSTRAAT
12 HET FAIRE OOSTEN Het Faire Oosten (The Fair East) is a shop and art gallery in one. Great for home accessories, clothing and personal care products. But better yet, almost everything here is locally made and fair trade. Exhibitions are held a few times a year in the gallery section, with artworks on sale at affordable prices. WALDENLAAN 208, HETFAIREOOSTEN.NL, TRAM: 7 – LINNAEUSSTRAAT/WIJTTENBACHSTRAAT
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