wasTE Not
Vik Muniz
TEXT: alexander horne contributing design editor
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waNt Not To recycle or not to? When it comes to comparing the reuse of materials such as plastic and glass after their initially intended product life - the reality is a balanced debate that could be argued either way to an almost inf inite degree. Indeed, the economic and environmental costs of breaking down products derived from these materials and forming them into a new product or allowing them to biodegrade naturally is not a subject to be braised over. On the surface of the issue of recycling though, there is much to be said of the publics’ awareness and the actions of certain innovators who strive to change our preconceptions of recycling through new processes and inventions. Thrift culture is a prevalent aspect of modern metropolises such as London and Paris. While second hand clothes are deemed not decadent enough for some inhabitants, those with little income to spare on clothes
are driven to think up innovative ways of achieving a certain look on a shoe string budget. Beyond Western Europe, where a more prudent approach to spending is now becoming mandatory for a generation living through an economic slump, thrift culture can be a day-to-day living need - not just a want. ‘Flavela’ was ‘chic’ in the fashion world around the time Fernando Meirelles passionate depiction of Brazilian slumlife ‘City of God’ burst onto our cinema screens in the late nineties. However, It was a more recent Brazilian documentary f ilm co-produced by Meirelles and featuring Sao Paulo artist Vik Muniz that really catches the imagination when it comes to making the most of what we have. ‘Waste Land’ was f ilmed over three years and follows Muniz alongside a group of selfdesignated waste pickers (referred to as “catadores”) in the world’s largest
DESIGN FUTURIST What led you to sustainable fashion?
the fashion industry, such as, the use
The fashion industry has a chaotic
of workers and the waste of natural
global supply chain that is easy to
resources. The experiences made me
ignore if you reside in the developed
aware of the great problems that
world. Many designers are behind
persist throughout the entire supply
computers
chain.
all
day.
They
of toxic chemicals, the exploitation
never
actually see how their designs are
to factories, dye houses, and textile
Are larger companies becoming more receptive to sustainable design?
mills developing new products for my
Yes, they see volatility in f iber and
clients. Along the way I was exposed
energy prices, the negative health
to the awful practices prevalent in
effects of toxic chemicals, rising
manufactured. I am fortunate that I have spent so much time traveling
Luis Gordoa/gorgoafotografia