AUSTRALIAN FASHION BEAUTY + LIFESTYLE
28 DEGREES BYRON BAY
28BYRONBAY.COM.AU
EDITOR / Claire Goldsworthy IMAGE / Peter Berzanskis
EDITOR’S LETTER
Deep down I’m a princess, but it conflicts with my values when ethical fashion is involved. On the one hand, I love sparkly and shiny things, big dresses and little details, but on the other, I don’t like to over-consume, I don’t like extravagance for the sake of it, and I’m an advocate of fashion for a purpose. But the latter doesn’t mean a girl still can’t dream. My mother has several photos of me as a child after I’d snuck into her makeup drawer and made a mess. I loved dressing up, donning red lipstick and pretending to be a princess and I don’t think it’s something any woman every truly grows out of. We all have our fantasies and dreams, and mine are simply all about fashion. The couture and bespoke world is one that has always fascinated me. Maybe because I can make my own clothes, I understand the time, love and dedication it takes to complete a handmade piece. Machines and multiples are of no use in the bespoke process. Slow, painstaking hours and a deep passion for the finished product are the tools
used in couture and tailor-made items, and it is this organic process that inspires me. The couture world is magical, and it’s where clothing does become art. Issue 03 of The Fashion Advocate pays homage to our local creators and makers who are slowly stitching the image of Australian couture and bespoke fashion together. Centuries old, the art of couture, bespoke and handmade fashion is driving the industry in Australia now more so than ever. As we become aware of the fashion industry and its impacts, we look to the brands who are creating and making differently. Dion Lee, Toni Maticevski and Carla Zampatti are the names the nation knows, but it’s the burgeoning brands in this issue that deserve the real spotlight. WEBSITE thefashionadvocate.com INSTAGRAM thefashionadvocate FACEBOOK fashionadvocate TWITTER thefashionadvoc
05 / EDITOR’S LETTER
contents 04 EDITOR’S LETTER Claire Goldsworthy 08 CONTRIBUTORS Advocates + friends 09 INDUSTRY INSIGHT Australian couture 10 CELEBRITY STYLIST Shannon Meddings 14 FASHION EDITORIAL Chris Smith 18 TEN QUESTIONS Marit Hamer 22 COUTURIERS Pat + George Georgiou 30 GEMMOLOGIST Tereena Lucas 34 GOOD STUFF Editor’s picks 36 AVID FOODIE Camilla Counsel 44 DREAMER Melanie Doncas 48 WONDER WOMAN Yolanda Finch 52 ILLUSTRATOR Estelle Michaelides
60 BESPOKE DESIGNER Josephine Bastone 66 FASHION EDITORIAL Belinda Matheson
07 / CONTENTS
58 TRENDING Dalla Tela
NINA IS A CREATIVE AT HEART and is CAPTIVATED BY THE WORLD OF FASHION. NINA DE PIETRO Graphic designer.
ELIZABETH CAN’T HANDLE A POORLY MADE GARMENT AND SALIVATES OVER LUXE TEXTILES.
08 / CONTRIBUTORS
ELIZABETH GAO Contributing writer.
ELLA can be found painting or drawing, USUALLY WITH a coffee in hand. ELLA KATE THRUPP Contributing writer.
Carmela LOVES HOW FASHION IS ALWAYS CHANGING WITH NEW TRENDS POPPING Up. CARMELA MORALES Contributing writer.
Rosie has a healthy fascination with people, things, nature and life. ROSIE BALL Contributing writer.
when not working, emily freelances and works on her own fashion label. EMILY DE BONT-KIDD Contributing writer.
DECODING COUTURE
However, fashion knows no realms, and over the decades, the art of couture has flourished into a global spawning, and Europe, Britain, Asia and the United States all adopt the arcane status of couture. Now, the practice has gained recognition south of the equator in Australia. Australian designers are decoding the practice of high-end fashion, abandoning its preconceived notions and utilising contemporary influences, but the conventions of couture remain the same; to produce quality custom made garments. Australia has laid claim to some of the industry’s biggest names in recent times, like headliners Toni Maticevski, Carla Zampatti and Paolo Sabastian, but it is Sydney based designer Dion Lee who reflects the Australian interpretation of couture. After debuting his first collection at Australian Fashion Week in 2009, the eponymous label was met with critical acclaim and has fast reached global success with its use of innovative designs, tailoring and construction. Exhibiting an instinctual and intrinsic style which looks more ready-to-wear than made-to-measure, Lee’s collections portray a relaxed yet complex femininity. Minimalistic silhouettes and complex textile manipulations are
the alchemy to Lee’s brand, which seamlessly combines the dynamic Australian lifestyle with a technical approach to traditional tailoring. With an innovative mind, Dion Lee has concocted an image that bridges the gap between mainstream and high-end fashion, securing a niche in the couture industry both at home and abroad. Along with the likes of Maticevski, Zampatti and Sabastian, Dion Lee is finding ways to hero couture within Australia. Be it sustainable initiatives to combat negative environmental impacts, unique construction concepts, or newly discovered textile fabrications; our local designers are focusing on more than just the final result. Gone are the days of designing the most elaborate garments for the most extravagant of runway shows. It goes beyond that. It’s about an aesthetic that portrays explored methods of construction. It’s the process that goes into the execution of every garment. It’s about casting an image relatable to the wider community that embraces the cultural diversity found around us. These are the values and relationships that Australian designers hold of local fashion. With renewed attitudes from the veterans of our industry and our up and coming talent, the world of couture is shifting on Australian shores, exalting fresh life into a field that began in a different time and in a different land.
CONTRIBUTOR / Emily de Bont-Kidd.
09 / INDUSTRY INSIGHT
‘Couture’ is defined by its Parisian origin and refers to bespoke garments of a ‘high dressmaking’ or ‘high fashion’ nature. As the birthplace of Coco Chanel, Christian Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli, France shaped the world of high-end fashion in the 20th century, and with revolutionary eyes, they forged a platform for a highly competitive and lucrative business.
INTERVIEW / Shannon Meddings CONTRIBUTOR / Emily de Bont-Kidd
shannon meddings
10 / SHANNON MEDDINGS
For many aspiring fashion creatives, the thought of being a sort-after stylist is an absolute dream, but for Shannon Meddings, it’s a reality. Born and raised in the South-Eastern suburbs of Melbourne, Shannon has now established her career as a celebrity stylist, regularly dressing the likes of Keira Knightly and supermodel Lily Cole.
As a teen, Shannon had an unquenchable thirst for fashion. She recalls times when she would raid her sister’s wardrobe, admiring its high-end labels and dreaming of the day she would own a designer closet herself. Growing up in a ‘free’ household where style was embraced and creativity was encouraged, Shannon gravitated toward the inspired arts and studied Commercial Art at RMIT before venturing into photography.
said yes. I was making coffee as a studio assistant and one day, I opened the door for this gorgeous girl, and we were talking on the break and just chatting. When the shoot finished, I found out she was the daughter of Ronnie Wood, one of The Rolling Stones. I had just casually been talking with Leigh Wood, but if I weren’t so open to new things and putting myself out there, it wouldn’t have happened.”
“I went over to London, and that’s where I learnt about the industry. Back then, we were still shooting with film. Over the past ten years – going from film to digital and cameras to iPhones – it’s been crazy. With film, we had to work everything out mathematically before we’d shoot. The most incredibly talented photographers could make a grey sky look blue with the right lighting. It was incredible, and it was art.”
When it was time to return to home soil, Shannon relocated to Sydney where she began working on the Aldi catalogue styling with props and products, but the work and the pay was unfulfilling.
Sometimes she’s been lucky and sometimes she’s just worked hard, but Shannon has always been committed to growing and changing with the industry so that she’s never left behind.
“I craved a more creative outlet. I knew how to work, and I knew what to do. You have to make your own opportunities. I’m determined and willing to work hard, and because of that, I’ve been so busy. My experience in London helped a lot, but to be honest, Sydney has been amazing to me. It’s been interesting to see how the industry has evolved over time, it’s constantly changing, and now it’s all online, it’s all digital.”
“I made sure I said ‘yes’ to everything when I was working in London. There were shitty jobs, but I
In a world where stylists can exist solely on Instagram and every second blogger is a fashion