THEFASHIONADVOCATE ISSUE 02
flora
DE LORENZO
v i n c e n t l i . c o m . a u
editor’s letter
hello FLORA: The plants of a particular region, habitat, or geological period. Issue 02 of The Fashion Advocate is all about ethical and sustainable fashion. We head back to basics and dig up the dirt on fashion, uncovering the stories of the individuals who are changing the industry for the better. Once upon a time, we lived in timber shacks, milled our own wheat and cooked our own bread, grew our own cotton and sewed our own clothes – but not any more. We live in a world that produces over 67 million tonnes of clothing each and every year, and it’s a world that finds it easier to throw away and buy new, than to make a sustainable decision in the first place. When you dig deep the fashion industry is not pretty. It is responsible for an alarming amount of pollution and waste, but I don’t want to bog you down with the depressing details. Instead, this issue of The Fashion Advocate aims to encourage you, to inspire you and to help you understand the power of your fashion choices so that you can be the change. Our interview with Edda Hamar of Undress Runways on Page 8 is a testament to the power of people who care; each and every year as Edda ships her travelling runway around the country, she gets closer and closer to a world where sustainable fashion is the norm. On Page 22, Colour Technician Craig Hislop shares the ins and outs of De Lorenzo, revealing the company’s surprising and incredible commitment to sustainability and 4
ethical business practices. Lois Hazel shares her story on Page 34, opening up about the struggles and strengths of being a ‘transparent label’ in an industry that is famously misleading, and on Page 42 I share Emma Gaffy’s story, who may possibly be the world’s first ever one-armed female DJ. But the most inspiring story of this issue, is about Melbourne-based label Cameron & James on Page 48. Designer Cameron Dixon explains his love/hate relationship with the fashion industry and how from an organic self-taught beginning he has struggled, triumphed and achieved with his ethical and sustainable menswear label. This entire issue looks beyond the detrimental environmental impacts that the fashion industry is responsible for and instead promotes the individuals who advocate for positive change. Although we may take small steps when we stand alone, as a collective we can make a difference. Start small, shop local, choose sustainably and think ethically. If you personally wouldn’t work for an unfair wage in unsafe conditions, don’t wear the clothes that have been made in that reality. Sustainable and ethical fashion choices are easy; take the time to understand the process, to research where, how and by who your clothes have been made, and acknowledge that you are just as responsible as every other person on the planet to make a difference. Claire Goldsworthy.
contents
8 14 22 28 34 42 48 52
Edda Hamar
Director, Undress Runways
Rose Sadleir
Fashion Designer, Nine Lives Bazaar
Craig Hislop
Colour Technician, De Lorenzo
Bonnie Graham
Fashion Designer, Sweet Innocence
Lois Fraser
Fashion Designer, Lois Hazel
Emma Gaffy
Blogger, One Girl and The Sea
Cameron Dixon
Fashion Designer, Cameron & James
find us Facebook @FashionAdvocate
Brenda Lui
Milliner, Crazy Teapot
Twitter @thefashionadvoc Instagram @thefashionadvocate 5
contributors Amanda Cunningham Melbourne Amanda is a Communication student with a background in psychology, but a passion for design. She won awards for her textile designs while in high school and has been known to sport her own creations when current trends don't take her fancy. Besides reading and writing, Amanda keeps herself busy dancing, crafting, cooking, eating and snuggling. Ella Kate Thrupp Brisbane
Sophie Paterson Melbourne
Ella is a writer, artist and fashion blogger who loves talking about the ever changing dynamics of the business of fashion. She gets most excited about the craftsmanship and details of garments, and the final touches that makes a piece stand out. When she’s not writing, Ella can be found painting or drawing – usually with a coffee in hand.
Sophie is a Sydney-born writer, photographer, singer, baker and ukulele player. With a Masters in Creative Arts, she has spent the last 10 years traveling the world, visiting over 60 countries. Now settled in Melbourne, Sophie is inspired by the fashion industry, constantly looking out for designers that are creating new avenues through ethical and sustainable practices. Carmela Morales Melbourne Carmela is currently studying a double degree in Arts and Commerce. In her spare time, Carmela runs her own blog where she combines three of her favourite things: writing, beauty, and fashion. She loves how fashion is always changing with new trends popping up left and right, and that there’s always a way for everyone to make each trend their own.
Elizabeth Gao Melbourne Elizabeth is on an expedition, hunting for the quirky and hissing at the ordinary. From a strict RMIT Fashion Design upbringing, Elizabeth can’t handle a poorly made garment and salivates over luxe textiles. She is a freelance photographer, writer of whims and an avid tester of new things. 6
Alice De Pasquale Melbourne Alice is in her final year at RMIT studying a Bachelor of Fashion (Merchandise Management). When she’s not busy studying or writing, Alice can be found shopping or working out at the gym. She loves Australian fashion because it is unique and constantly evolving, and because it’s unlike anything on the international market.
industry
the fashion
footprint
We often talk about the ‘footprint’ of the fashion industry, but when do we stop and ask ourselves about the impact of the shoe we wear when we make that footprint? Sustainability in the fashion industry is a complicated topic, but rather than being overwhelmed by the complexity of it, it’s an issue easily addressed if we simply look closer to home. Start small and consider the shoes you choose to buy before you look at the environmental footprint they leave. Of course, the shoe is just the tip of the issue, or the ‘sole’ of the issue to be exact. When we spend our money on any fashion item, be it shoes, clothing, or accessories, we are saying something about what kind of world we want to be a part of. When we’re faced with the decision, many of us still associate the words ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ with the thought of negativity, exploitation, sweatshops and mass production, because we’re forced to think of the consequences. While this is certainly not a myth when it comes to the fashion industry, there are small changes that any consumer can ponder if they want their wardrobe to tell a slightly less harrowing tale. In this day and age, it is too easy to find information on any brands’ ethical and sustainable practices. If you really want to get down and dirty with your research, dig up the track record of the head company that owns the clothing brand you’re about to buy, or read up on the associated issues surrounding ethical shopping, or arm yourself with knowledge on other alternatives, and be aware of what cost textile farming has on the ecosystem… Being informed does not mean you need to sacrifice your own sense of style. Advocating this eco-shift is Sydney based womenswear designer, Rachael Cassar, who creates sustainable high-end forward thinking fashion. Rachael describes her self-titled label as “Semi-couture creations for the creative at heart.” Cassar blends high-end couture, sustainable and recycled materials, and ethical practices to merge a line of unique, beautiful pieces for special occasions. Her eye for detail and her ability to deconstruct, results in one-off garments that are comprised of 90% recycled materials, making her one of the most forward thinking designers of our time. But don’t take my word for it; her garments have been worn by the likes of Christina Ricci,
Rihanna, Kristen Stewart, Ginnifer Goodwin, Kesha and Carrie Underwood. Rachael is determined to change the stigma surrounding the topic and she’s never been shy to admit why she manufactures the way she does. In 2007, Rachael shared her story with Science Alert in an article highlighting the eco-shift in fashion, stating: “The only way that people are going to accept eco-fashion is if they’re not sacrificing anything for it. The trick is to replace cheaply made fashion with equally appealing but sustainable items. Designers no longer have an excuse for not using alternative materials as technology is constantly improving.” Rachael’s passion for sustainable practices was leading the movement more than eight years ago, and today, she’s joined by a growing number of designers who are aware of the impact their garments make. So, the next time you fret about your environmental footprint, first think about the shoe. Whether you start at the top or start at the bottom, start somewhere; considering the entire fashion chain and your role within it, is what makes the difference. Although the shoes that you wear may only leave a light footprint, make sure that footprint is part of an ethical and sustainable trail that you’re proud to be following. Sophie Paterson.
Read up on sustainability in the fashion industry at www.tfia.com.au/sustainability
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edda hamar
Undress Runways 8
Edda Hamar is on a mission. As the Director of Undress Runways, Edda supports, celebrates and showcases the unique work of sustainable fashion designers from around the globe. The annual Undress Runways events serve to educate, to inspire and to encourage Australian consumers to value sustainable fashion, and the team behind the scenes is committed to making a difference. “Things need to change.” This is a phrase at the forefront of the company. Undress Runways believe we, as consumers, have the power to set new standards for the fashion industry by examining the practices of our favourite labels. Creating the change is also about involvement, education, and engagement, which is why Undress Runways now hosts annual events in Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne. Showcasing sustainable daywear, eveningwear, swimwear and lingerie from national and international designers, featuring everything from bamboo underwear to red wine and turmeric dyed garments, recycled accessories and organic fabrics. Planting the seed, Undress Runways encourages fashion enthusiasts to think twice about the long-term impacts of the fashion industry, and to consider sustainable fashion choices. By combining the ‘fashionable’ aspect of a runway event with the topic of sustainability, Undress Runways are taking a green step in the right direction. “I think ethical and sustainable fashion still has a very ‘un-cool’ stigma attached to it in certain circles and there is also a general lack of education amongst young people who are starting to shop. We want the tables to turn and the term ‘sustainable fashion’ to disappear; it should just be ‘fashion’ and the other stuff should be ‘sweatshop fashion’ or ‘cheap and nasty fashion’. It is slowly getting better in Australia, but ‘fashion’ generally isn’t recognised as a big contributor to climate change, however it is the second-most polluting industry in the world. Government and industry groups are starting to realise that fashion is fuelled by diminishing resources like cotton, and run-off is polluting our planet, but we are still behind a lot of European countries in making the change.” And although Edda is an advocate for sustainability now, working in fashion wasn’t something she dreamt of as a child. Born in Iceland, Edda grew up travelling the world, moving onto a 48-foot yacht with her family when she was five years old to sail around Rome, Italy, and through the Mediterranean, down the coast of Africa, across the Atlantic, up the East Coast of America, back down the Panama Canal, across the Pacific Ocean and through the Pacific Islands. Ending up in Australia, the Hamar family settled. “We ended up on the Gold Coast. I spent my teens growing up in the Bonogin Valley, on a beautiful big acreage property. I was very active, I did a lot of sport and was well behaved in school, but I was a bit of a chatterbox in class. With all the travelling I did when I was young, I had all sorts of ideas about what I wanted to do when I grew up: doctor,
actress, astronaut, director, princess... I was 12 when I decided I wanted to organise events as a career, the Olympic Games in particular. But I started working in fashion on a whim, when I was at university. I wanted to do something challenging and interesting, so I organised a fashion show with a friend called ‘Frock It!’, showcasing the Queensland University of Technology fashion students. After that, I got together with a couple of friends and launched Undress Brisbane.” When Edda looks back at the launching years, her feelings are balanced between nostalgia and frustration. It’s not easy starting a business in the fashion industry, especially on a whim. Edda’s Masters in Business/Marketing certainly helped, but she put the puzzle pieces together herself, learning about fashion shows on the fly, how they work, what they’re for, fashion jargon, what works and what doesn’t on the runway – it all came naturally, but not easily. “During the first 12 months, I was working a fulltime job, so the hardest factor evolved around time and not having enough of it. It can be extremely stressful working full-time and trying to launch a business. You feel like you’re not performing 100% at anything because your energy and time are so divided, it can be really frustrating.” Now, the sheer size and complexity of the touring Undress Runways events seem so monumental that most event managers would shudder, but Edda assures me that the process is fluid. She refers to herself as ‘unorthodox’, but with years of experience and 10 fashion shows under her belt now, each cog has worked it‘s place behind the scenes. The team operates in an unconventional way, primarily run by volunteers who have normal day jobs, but the results always outweigh the late nights, early mornings and long lists. “I had no fashion background before Undress so everything has been created very intuitively and collaboratively. Undress’ goal is of course to produce amazing shows and to work hard to promote our designers, but I also heavily invest into the internal team experience. It’s important that the experience is fun, interesting and meaningful for the team. Being volunteer-run can often make Undress look like organised chaos from the outside, but it is actually a very smoothly-oiled machine with an excellent sense of humour.” A celebrated success now, Undress Runways remains an organic, personal experience for all involved, and because each location’s event only happens once a year, it doesn’t feel like a usual ‘job’ for Edda. “It doesn’t have the same rhythm and routine like many conventional businesses. It has a really unique feel; it feels more like a family of friends getting together to organise an event that we really believe in - rather than a day job. I am passionate about people living responsibly and businesses existing with a worldly purpose and a healthy bottom line (not just profit). I want to show people that there is a better way to enjoy fashion and that businesses have the power to create positive change in society.” 9
It’s a big goal, but an attainable goal for Edda. Being somewhat of an adrenaline-junkie, the transition from Undress Brisbane to the expansion of Undress Runways – which now sees three shows in three cities in just over three weeks each year – is an immense commitment, but a worthy commitment. She labels the before and after, the ‘pre-runway-superhuman-season’ and the ‘post-runway-sloth-season’, and with the blood, sweat and tears that go into each event, she does sometimes question what’s she’s doing with her life in the stressful moments. But, when the show starts and the crowds are seated, the end result is always worth it. The 2015 Melbourne event is one of Edda’s favourites to date, and the most successful. With a team on the ground locally, the lead up was a lot smoother too. “This year we had a team in Melbourne which was amazing, it makes such a difference having a local team when we’re doing interstate shows. The set design was also new. Ryan, our Art Director, was inspired by the connection between our clothes and climate change. He created a floating set of biospheres to make a connection between fashion and the earth’s delicate ecosystem. We picked locations with lots of space and high ceilings this year so we could have a long runway and go to town on the set.” Although the events only run across three weeks of the year, planning occurs year round for Undress Runways, but every week is different and every day is different. Before the tour, a week in Edda’s shoes would include photo-shoots, planning, logistics, writing for the website, partner meetings, interviews, training interns, writing for The Naked Mag, team meetings and sourcing everything from paper-clips to marquees. “Today, I woke up, had a meeting, edited a short video, wrote a video brief, answered emails, paid invoices, worked on an event proposal… There’s never a dull moment when it comes to sustainable fashion.” Edda is also working on the fourth edition of The Naked Magazine, a publication that promotes Undress Runways and sustainability, offering an insight into the behind-the-scenes action of the fashion industry. The Naked Magazine is informative and it’s all about the impact that fashion has on the environment. Filled with educational pieces on the unethical treatment of fashion workers, The Naked Magazine exposes the blurred lines between designers and production; some of it is confronting, but only through acknowledgement will we ever make the change. The Naked Magazine also shares entertaining and insightful interviews about people making positive changes in the fashion industry through their products and practices, and it features people who are paving the way for sustainable fashion design. With the third edition of The Naked Magazine currently on sale, the fourth edition is in the pipeline for September 2016. 2016 is set to be a big year for Edda, with the January launch of VIHN – the team’s sustainable fashion label, which is deter10
mined to transform the garment industry. The word VIHN is derived from the Icelandic word meaning ‘friend’, reminding consumers that there are actually real people behind our clothes. Sales from VIHN will also make a difference: buy a VIHN dress, and you provide child-care to the workers. Buy a VIHN jacket, and you add solar panels to the workspace. Buy a VIHN shirt and you fund education programs for the workers. VIHN wants to create opportunities for mainstream garment workers to move into ethical workplaces, and transform their lives – an inspirational ethos and monumental goal. With the shows, the magazine and the label churning year round, one would assume that the spare time of such a busy woman would be spent relaxing, but not for Edda. “I visit my family a lot in the Bonogin Valley; my sister just finished high-school, my other sister just started high-school, and I have twin siblings who are 11. I’m also getting back into running the Kangaroo Point stairs with my housemates (ouch!) and I’m spending a bit of time on a new event to launch next year.” When you’re working on something you love, it’s not work, and this saying is true for Edda. Her vision and passion remain focused on educating the consumer and changing the lives of people in the fashion industry, from developing countries, factories and workspaces, to the general public and of course, the front row of Australian runways. Claire Goldsworthy + Sophie Paterson.
www.undressrunways.com www.thenakedmag.com www.vihn.com.au
Edda with Holly, Ryan and Kirsten, part of the production team.
Edda’s team, “A very smoothly-oiled machine with an excellent sense of humour.”
Edda with Richard Brandon. Edda wears sustainable fashion label, Harriette Hill, for the promotion of the #BOWTIEFORBRANSON campaign.
Edda opens every show, proud to be promoting such a worthy cause. 11