From under-the-radar restaurants and family run wineries to centuries-old watchmakers and the ancient chateaux that line its shores, Joe Mortimer explores Switzerland’s gorgeous second city of Geneva. Havens from the outside world to which we increasingly retreat to unwind, relax and rejuvenate, we visit a curated selection of Europe’s best spas. Also in the Ninth Anniversary Edition of The Cultured Traveller, Nicholas Chrisostomou stays at extraordinary Xigera Safari Lodge in the Okavango Delta, which has been lovingly reborn by a family with generations of experience in the hospitality industry; Paul Burston recounts the life of comedy icon Paul O’Grady, who, during a career lasting four decades, took British pub drag mainstream and earned national treasure status. And one lucky reader will win a four-night stay at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, which is perfectly positioned at the gateway to the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia.