Issuu

November 2021 | Issue 01

DECONSTRUCTING THE 'DEFINITIONS' OF

MASCULINITY

Conde Nast College Student Taylor Biccum

GQ TABLE OF CONTENTS

03 05 07 08 09 11 12 13 15

What is Masculinity?

Global Historical & Contemporary Context What Drives Deconstructing Masculinity? Who Drives Deconstructing Masculinity? Deconstructing Masculinity with Harry Styles Deconstructing Masculinity with GQ Masculinity and Fashion

The Future of Masculinity

Citations

WHAT IS

MASCULINITY? MASCULINITY IS DEFINED BY MIRIAMWEBSTER AS "THE QUALITY OR NATURE OF THE MALE SEX : THE QUALITY, STATE, OR DEGREE OF BEING MASCULINE OR MANLY".

Masculinity | 03

GQ is a men’s fashion and lifestyle magazine owned by Condé Nast. The publication originated in 1931 under the name of Apparel Arts and was intended to give selling advice to retailers and wholesalers of men’s fashion and accessories. It quickly transitioned into a public men’s fashion magazine named Esquire, in 1933. Fast forward about 25 years, Esquire then split off into a quarterly magazine under the name of Gentleman’s Quarterly. This magazine was then sold to Condé Nast in 1983 and shortened to the name of GQ.

WHAT IS

MASCULINITY? Since the original launch of GQ in 1983, it has been a symbol of style, sophistication, and culture for men around the world. The publication has showcased some of the most influential athletes, actors, musicians, and politicians of the times on its’ covers and inside spreads. These cover men ooze style, sophistication, success, and masculinity. GQ sells this image of what it means to be masculine and powerful, however, how have these two things been defined through the magazine? What brings these cover men the titles of “power and masculinity”? Is it their money? Their luxurious lifestyles? Their fashion sense? Their worldly fame and success? The word masculinity has been used for ages to define things that are described in parallel to men. However, what does masculinity actually mean today? Our culture today has been trying to deconstruct the definitions of masculinity and what it means to the individual, rather than as an overall term. The deconstruction of masculinity has been a trending topic of conversation within society within recent years, and has grown into a societal movement that is gender fluidity and inclusivity. We have seen various societal changes in fashion, gender norms, and lifestyle that are actively dissecting these traditional meanings of masculinity, as well as femininity, to create a more diverse environment. Masculinity | 04

GLOBAL HISTORICAL

& CONTEMPORARY CONTEXT Masculinity. A term, normally, used to describe “the quality or nature of the male sex”. Throughout history, the term “masculinity” was reserved for the strong male presences of our society, such as our: fathers, politicians, factory workers, military service men, athletes, construction workers, business men, entrepreneurs, millionaires and billionaires, and so on. “Masculinity” is a right of passage that’s given to all men for them to define for themselves, but can also be easily stripped away by their “peers” if they act lesser in any way.

Culturally, and societally, we place certain structures and limitations on ourselves and BUT WHY? others from a very young age. We are taught about what it does and doesn’t mean to be a man or woman; masculine or feminine. Feminine is regularly thought of as “delicate”, “natural”, and “beautiful”. Whereas masculine is regularly thought of as “tough”, “strong”, and “brave”. In recent years, the terms “masculinity” and “femininity” have been deconstructed by many in the belief that there is no one way to properly define either or. Masculinity | 05

GQ There have been various trends that have tried to define masculinity. However, two main

trends involved the metrosexual and the ubersexual. Throughout the 90's and into the early 2000's, the "metrosexual" was a trend that defined a man who is obsessed with personalimage, fashion, and lifestyle. From the early-mid 2000's to present day, the term "ubersexual" now defines a man who is primarily focused on personal growth, world issues and politics, as well as his relationships. The ubersexual has progressed from "grooming ones hair" to "grooming one's mind". This new sense of masculinity argues that men are still able to enjoy more "manly" activities and ideas, but are also able to be creative, openminded, and still respect others for their beliefs and choices without ridicule.

Masculinity is constantly changing and evolving to become more of a contemporary idea to all. Men today are able to label themselves "masculine" in whichever way they please. No matter how they use the term to define, or not define, themselves, it is to be known that it is a unique label for everyone and we will live to see a time where an overall definition of the term will be obsolete. Masculinity | 06

WHAT DRIVES DECONSTRUCTING MASCULINITY?

This trend of deconstructing masculinity has been driven by changes within our societies and culture. It has started with the wider societal acceptance of women, LGBTQ+, and gender fluidity / inclusivity. We have seen this trend slowly emerge through fashion, social movements, pop culture, etc. Masculinity | 07

S O R E F V D I E R D

classes, and walks of life, drive the topic of deconstructing this gender norm. In history, there have been some specific people such as Freddie Mercury, David Bowie, George Clooney, Lewis Hamilton, and Harry Styles, who have been poster men for this adopting ideal of individuals defining their masculinity. GQ has also been able to start deconstructing these ideas of masculinity through various issues of their print magazine, online articles, and social media platforms. They are trying to switch the narrative from being strictly "manly men", "metrosexual men", etc. to being more inclusive for all men, no matter they way they define their masculinity.

SCULINI T Y MA

RUCTI T S N N G O CPeople from all over the world, from various backgrounds, families, careers, social

DECONSTRUCTING MASCULINITY WITH HARRY STYLES

Harry Styles. Boy band member turned rock star turned fashion icon. Throughout the past 4 years, Styles has been redefining what masculinity means to him since he started his solo career. After leaving the world famous boy band, One Direction, he was able to truly define himself as a person and solo artist. It was during the Covid-19 lockdown that Styles was able to immerse himself in redefining his music, evolving his relationships, and learning about himself.

Masculinity | 09

GQ These ideals that Styles has been able to grow on during his time in lockdown reiterates the ideologies of the "ubersexual". He is much more focused on fostering relationships with oneself and others, is invested in social issues and politics, and is much more interested in dressing for himself rather than dressing with the trends. He embodies everything that a traditionally masculine male would (i.e. character, sex appeal, success) yet also embodies characteristics that the traditional feminine would (i.e. communication, compassion).

GQ "I HOPE THAT THIS BRAND OF CONFIDENCE AS A MALE THAT HARRY HAS—TRULY DEVOID OF ANY TRACES OF TOXIC MASCULINITY—IS INDICATIVE OF HIS GENERATION AND THEREFORE THE FUTURE OF THE WORLD. ... IT’S PRETTY POWERFUL AND KIND OF EXTRAORDINARY TO SEE SOMEONE IN HIS POSITION REDEFINING WHAT IT CAN MEAN TO BE A MAN WITH CONFIDENCE.” Olivia Wilde

Styles claims that as a child he was enamored with "fancy dress". He believes that's where his initial love for fashion and self-expression through clothing originated. It wasn't until he met his personal stylist, Harry Lambert, that he had his "style transformation". Styles appreciated that Lambert played around with fashion and clothing, not taking it too seriously, and that's how Styles became more comfortable with experimenting with clothing himself. He believes that when you take away the stereotypical beliefs that there are only clothes for men and women, then you remove all barriers to play around with the creativity that is fashion. Biccum | 09 Masculinity | 10

DECONSTRUCTING MASCULINITY WITH GQ GQ has been the world's leading men's magazine for decades. They have been recognized for promoting ideas of masculinity, success, fame, and style within men's culture. Throughout GQ's history they have had thousands of issues discussing ideas of masculinity. They are constantly releasing articles online and in print. They expand on this growing idea of deconstructing masculinity within their fashion, culture, and GQ Heroes sections, and their GQ Men of the Year Awards. They have had many celebrities touch on this idea such as Will Smith, David Beckham, and Pharell Williams, to name a few. GQ have expressed that they are not trying to tell me how to be masculine, or what rules to follow, but they are pushing the idea of figuring it out for yourself through culture and fashion. Masculinity | 11

MASCULINITY AND FASHION

One pathway into the deconstruction of masculinity is through menswear. On the runway we are seeing multiple trends arise that are generally more adopted in womenswear, such as: skirts, dresses, long day-spa coats, and colourful jumpers.

However, it is inspiring to see how many designers and stylists are taking initiative to push for this inclusivity in the fashion industry. Men should be able to enjoy shopping, wearing flamboyant and extravagant items, as well as basic staples that make them happy. Whether that be a skirt or a dress, or jeans and a t-shirt. Fashion is all about expressing oneself, and with this idea of breaking down gender barriers in fashion, we are allowing people a safe space to explore at their own pace Masculinity | 12

Fashion is always evolving due to our social, political, and economical climates. However, it is incredibly interesting to see just how menswear, as well as womenswear, is evolving to become more gender neutral. Many of these pieces might normally be seen as more feminine since they are normally marketed towards women.

THE FUTURE OF MASC ULINITY

The future of masculinity will evolve throughout time in relation to our world around us. It has fluctuated through strict definitions to multiple definitions to now being deconstructed as an idea. According to a study done by GQ, about 32% of men believe that masculinity is in crisis, 35% didn't agree with it being in crisis, and 33& was impartial to the statement. So where does this leave men in the midst of defining their own sense of masculinity? Going forward, it's important that GQ continues to spread awareness of this growing idea of defining your own masculinity. As the leading men's global publication, they need to continue to talk about it, ask questions to their readers, and strive to make their platforms a safe space for men to express themselves however "And that, maybe, sums they wish. up where we are: a feeling GQ has been addressing the trend of masculinity shifting gears from a traditional that we know we should mold into a more interpretive one for about two decades now. However, it would be in change, but don’t yet GQ's best interest to truly capitalize on helping other men look at this idea and know what that change teach them how to take it into their own hands. Whether that be through looks like; where we know conferences, ted talks, fashion advice, parental advice, etc, it's imperative that the rules aren’t what they they stay active with this trend. It's going to continue to be around us for the foreseeable were, but the new rules future, and GQ should continue to embrace it for years to come. have not yet been set." Masculinity | 13

THE FUTURE OF MASCULINITY In terms of fashion, we recommend that fashion brands start listening to what men want to see more of. It would be interesting to see all brands create pieces that are both androgynous but also are more creative and whimsical. Perhaps make pieces that are multi-dimensional, be able to "customize" a shirt with a collar, buttons, sleeves, ect. and make it more masculine or feminine based on the person buying it. It would also be interesting to explore the idea of having fashion brands make separate collections of "feminine menswear" with skirts, kilts, dresses, blouses, purses, etc. Start with it online to see if there is any interest, but just explore the idea of some men maybe wanting to purchase menswear with a twist. Within womenswear, there are a plethora of options for more feminine, masculine, and unisex pieces, and that's why women are so much more comfortable dressing themselves. However, being able to give men various opportunities to express themselves through fashion would be a great starting point to let them explore a side of the industry that is not normally accessible to them. It is important that while exploring this trend of deconstructing masculinity and other gender norms, we leave things open to interpretation. We must keep things creative, whimsical, and fluid; making sure that we don't take ourselves too seriously. Times are changing, and always will, so we need to take this trend in stride and use it as a time for growth, learning, and exploration. There isn't one right or wrong way to define masculinity today, but we need platforms to relay this message and show that they're actively interested in deconstructing it with the rest of us. Masculinity | 14

CITATIONS PHOTOS & INFORMATION

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