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taste.blas magazine - Aug-October 26, issue 26

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Celebrating great food and drink in Wales

August - October 26

CAREERING AHEAD

Job satisfaction guaranteed

A

VIEW TO

DINE

FOR Coastal foodie gems

TOP BEER

Shift up with these quenchers

RAISING THE BAR

Make your outdoor feast special

STRIKE GOLD

Proud sponsors of Wrexham AFC

Proudly brewed in Wrexham, poured across Wales and beyond. Founded in 1882, Wrexham Lager is the oldest lager brewery in Wales and one of the longest-standing in the UK. Brewed using carefully selected ingredients and time-honoured methods, our lager is crisp, clean and unmistakably characterful.

Publisher’s Letter

Feeling the heat

As my sweaty digits tap away at the keyboard, we’re already into our third heatwave of the summer, a third consistent period of the mercury touching over 35 degrees, and its only mid-July.

It’s making me wonder why on earth anyone would seriously want to go abroad this summer. Here in Wales, we have glorious beaches, amazing countryside and spectacular mountains. And now, it seems we have the weather too!

e other attribute we have, one that’s key to most people’s idea of a great holiday, is amazing food and drink, produced by a buzzing food and drink sector. It’s no secret that hospitality has had a hard time recently. So why not top up the tan, eat like a horse, drink like a sh and relax closer to home this summer. You’ll have unrivalled cuisine and be supporting local businesses, to boot. What’s not to love?

Our Welsh food and drink sector not only delivers a fantastic experience for home-grown and visiting foodies, but it also o ers a great livelihood. In this

end-of-term issue, as many of our young people are nishing school or college, we look at how a rewarding career can still be had working in hospitality or with one of the many producers, thriving in Wales. As can be seen in the feature, the level of support and training on o er to both employees and employers alike, mean that the opportunities are huge.

Elsewhere we talk summer beers that will sate any thirst, visit eateries that combine stunning sea vistas with fabulous food, and check out products that will add something special to your outdoor dining experience. And if that’s not enough then settle down with our regular columnists. Jon Gower reminisces over old recipe books, Caroline Saarl hits the sweet spot and Myfanwy Alexander misses home foodie comforts.

Enjoy!

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EDITORIAL

Contributors: Jon Gower, Myfanwy Alexander, Mike Lewis, Caroline Sarll, Sarah Morgan, Jonno Mack, Louisa Harry-Thomas, Abigail Saltmarsh

Admin: Karen Kelly

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taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, ©Conroy Media 2024. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.

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Front cover image courtesy of Hybu Cig Cymru/ Meat Promotion Wales

Jon Gower From Chapel

Kitchens to Ca s

Fish gravy! A Victorian-era Wesleyan minister called omas omas was apparently a dab hand at establishing chapels but he was also the author of a popular Victorian self-help book, which had lots of sage advice for working in the kitchen. Llyfr Pawb ar Bob-Peth ( e Book for Everyone About Everything) appeared twenty years a er Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management and indeed some of her recipes mysteriously migrated into omas’ tome.

Sin-averse, omas freely admits the borrowings in the introduction, stating that much of his material is secondhand, or gleaned from reading other books. But one thing seems painfully clear. He didn’t know his audience, because it’s hard to imagine the Welsh chapel-goer who would need to know how to roast twenty ve pounds of venison haunch or have it spelled out how to make a ham sandwich. And then there was his gravy...for sh.

For this sad, mad mismatch you had to fry garlic, onions, carrots and maize until they formed a glutinous gum. en add water, mushrooms, our and sherry. It was clearly not a sauce for dayboat sh, caught that morning but, rather a lumpen experiment in how not to do it. While some unexpected ingredients work well with sh – think gooseberries with mackerel – this was de nitely not the sort of thing to plaster over, say a fresh turbot.

One of the books shortlisted for this year’s Wales Book of the Year award is an account of the Welsh love of food. In order to write Lobsgows, the author Ruth Richards has sought out Welsh language cookery books from the past and one of those was the Reverend omas omas’ inept guide. But she also encountered more serious contributors to kitchen wisdom, such as Minwell Tibbott. Tape recorder to hand, she travelled the breadth and length of Wales gathering and indeed preserving recipes, including, of course, many recipes for preserving produce.

Tibbott was a pioneer in the eld of women’s domestic history in Wales, a gatherer of oral accounts and heirloom recipes, many of which found their way into

her Amser Bwyd (Food Time) published in 1974. is not only included recipes but atmospheric photographs too. ere is Mrs May Davies preparing oat cake in her kitchen in Llansaint, Carmarthenshire and Mrs Patti John from Mynachlog-ddu in Pembrokeshire baking bread in a pot. Most of the women wear patterned aprons while their kitchens gleam with polished copper utensils, black-leaded surfaces of open hearths and arrays of dishes for all occasions.

As author Ruth Richards tells us, many of the early recipes were born of poverty and necessity, aimed at appeasing hunger. One such was slotyn, which was nothing more than a slice of bread boiled in water with salt and pepper while another, siot was made up of oatbread spread with butter-milk.

e book also captures social history, such as the arrival and spread of Italian cafes which brought new names to the high street – Antoniazzi, Sidoli, Conti, Forte – and, supreme among them Bracchi, which became a sort of generic name, Bracchis, for such cafes in general. But we also had our indigenous ca s, too, such as the slightly Stalinist-sounding National Milk Bars. ese were founded by a dairy farmer from Montgomeryshire, Robert William Gri ths and grew to become a chain of twenty such bars in mid and north Wales, although only one now remains and that, for some reason in Ellesmere Port.

ere’s certainly more than a whi of nostalgia about Richards’ book as she recollects the days of turkey twizzlers or school milk, thick with cream and drunk from bottles before the blue tits picked away the tops. e history of Welsh language recipe books considers volumes which fair match the times, such as the 1960s’ Ffenest y Gegin, which helped the burgeoning middle class arrange parties featuring such items as minestrone soup with boulettes. Twenty years later O Gawl i Gawl re ected the busy 1980s which allowed for the use of powdered potato Smash or even Dream Topping if time was tight. Richards has found the right ingredients for a good book, which brings the past to life and shows us how so much has changed, even if our love of food remains undiminished.

True Summer Brews

Relax this summer with a glass of chilled ale or ice-cold lager. Abigail Saltmarsh highlights a few tempting Welsh beers that could be perfect for that picnic or barbecue in the sizzling hot sunshine…

Alfresco Hazy Pale Ale

is aptly named pale ale from the Bluestone Brewing Co. in rural North Pembrokeshire is a refreshing choice for those outdoor occasions this summer. A suitably juicy 4.3% ABV beer, it is brewed with saturated yeast and Simcoe, Centennial and Citra hops, giving it a tropical summery edge. On their working family farm near Newport, these brewers also produce Stone Cold (4.2% ABV), another fruity choice made with Simcoe and Mosaic and perfect at this time of year.

bluestonebrewing.co.uk

Barry Island IPA

What could be more in keeping with summer than a trip to Barry Island? Inspired by American IPA but truly Welsh at heart, this 4.5% ABV number is one to bring out of the cool chest on those scenic South Wales beaches. Its blend of US hops o ers bursts of citrus and berry. Brains has been brewing in Cardi since 1882, but this is a bright, bold and decidedly modern beer.

brainsbrewery.com

Beach Lager

Preparing a picnic for a day out on the sand right here in Wales? Tenby Brewing Co. has exactly what your hamper is lacking. Beach Lager (3.4% ABV), its un ltered helles brew, is a pale beer with biscuity notes and a gentle bitterness. It is gluten free and suitable for vegans too – so expect everyone to be reaching for a can as you sunbathe on the shore.

tenbybrewingco.com

Borderland

Recently released and perfect for this time of year is Polly’s Australian IPA Borderland (5% ABV). Crack open a can to release a combination of exotic avours including deep pineapple, velvety passionfruit and zingy citrus. e Flintshire brewery also has a new IPA, Block Dri (6.1% ABV), which also o ers a taste of the tropics. Pour yourself a glass and wait for the peach, mango, papaya and strawberry sensations. Punnets of delicious summer fruit…

pollys.co

California Golden Ale

Immediately conjuring up streaming sunshine, this citrus blonde (4.7% ABV) is just one of the Conwy Brewery’s West Coast collection options that you might like to crack open over the coming weeks. Brewed with American hops for that classic grapefruit avour, it brings the Welsh and Californian summers together with ease. Other West Coast choices include Sur n (5.1% ABV), Riptide (4.6 % ABV) and Golden Gate (5.8 % ABV).

conwybrewery.co.uk

Chinookan VPA

With its piney aroma, this very pale ale from Grey Trees Brewery in Aberdare brings the cool July and August breezes of picture-postcard Bannau Brycheiniog right into the glass. A refreshing, single hop 4.2% ABV drink, with a medium intensity, it o ers light hints of spice and grapefruit, as well as pine. e brewery’s Afghan Pale Ale (5.4% ABV), with its notes of lemon grass and tropical fruit, is another standout beer to reach for at the moment.

greytreesbrewery.com

Clwb Cabana

Bring a touch of the tropics to Wales with this Caribbean IPA from Tiny Rebel. e Newport brewer’s Clwb Cabana is packed full of summer vibes and over owing with a medley of juicy delights. With a 7% ABV, it manages to be smooth while also packing a punch. For those who love their beer bursting with pineapple, mango and peach aromas, Clwb Tropica IPA (5% ABV) is another perfect pick from Tiny Rebel.

tinyrebel.co.uk

Emrallt IPA

A true jewel in the Wild Horse Brewing Co’s crown, Emrallt IPA (6% ABV) is a celebration of the verdant Welsh countryside and the picturesque coastline. Brewed in Llandudno by the Wild Horse Brewing Co, it marries bold citrus avours with an easy-sipping hazy body. Scooping a Gold Award in the Bottle and Can IPA category at the 2026 National SIBA Indie Beer Awards, it could well be a winner for you as well this summer.

wildhorsebrewing.co.uk

Farmhouse Pilsner

Sit back in the shade with a glass of Sobremesa’s Farmhouse Pilsner (4.7%). is refreshing tipple is created with British oor malt but has a distinctly German pilsner style. Crisp and refreshing, it is perfect for a balmy July or August evening. For those looking for an earthier avour, Sobremesa’s hoppy Farmers Pale Ale (4.9%) is also superb for a summer celebration.

sobremesadrinks.co.uk

Felinfoel Craft IPA

is relative newcomer from the Felinfoel Brewery, near Llanelli, has a glowing straw shade that is quite simply summer in a bottle. With a recipe that was in uenced by American-style IPA beers, it exudes oral hops and brings caramelised malt to the palate. A medium-bodied 4% ABV beer, it makes a nice accompaniment to a light plate but is also an easy, standalone mid-a ernoon or evening sipper.

felinfoel.com

Langum Lager

Lager lovers should look no further than Langum when seeking something to sip on this summer. From the Cleddau Brewing Co, based at Pembroke Dock, this rice lager comes in 5% ABV Hi Expression and 2.9% ABV Low Expression versions. Smooth and light, it has a crisp nish that is perfect for a hot day. For a tipple with a rounder avour and a gentle, juicier haze, the brewery’s East Coast Hazy Pale comes in 3.2% ABV and 5.7% ABV choices.

www.cleddaubrewing.co.uk

Mŵsh Lager

Looking for a thirst-quenching Welsh lager? e clean taste of Purple Moose’s Mŵsh (4.7% ABV) might be just what you are seeking. Brewed in Porthmadog, this is a palatable, Kölsch-style lager with a light fruity nish and hints of caramel. Another suitably summery o ering from the creative brewers at Purple Moose is High Hops (5.4% ABV). A robust yet refreshing IPA, this presents tantalising, tropical undertones and is perfect for sharing at your next garden party.

purplemoose.co.uk

Rocky Bottom

Spend time by the sea and sip a can of Tenby Harbwr Brewery’s Rocky Bottom. is South West Wales creation is a 4.6% ABV Welsh premium lager made for days out on the coast. With subtle oral hops and hints of citrus, it is a crisp, golden drink with an abundance of summery, seaside sensation. For those who prefer IPA, the brewery’s Viking Saga (5.3% ABV) is another fruity option.

harbwr.wales

Simcoe Sun

Jump in quickly to secure yourself a few bottles of this summer’s limited edition ale from Monty’s Brewery, based near Montgomery in Powys. At 4.6% ABV, Simcoe Sun is a punchy, fruity session ale created from Jester and Mosaic, as well as Simcoe hops. Also perfect for enjoying in the great outdoors is Monty’s Helles German-style lager, which has a sweeter nish. Pop a few bottles of this pale, straw-coloured, 4% ABV brew into the fridge.

montysbrewery.co.uk

Sunrise Pale Ale

Ideal for golden sands and blue skies, this 3.8% ABV beer from the Hafod Brewing Co in Mold is a light, upli ing pale ale. A perfect complement to homemade picnic delicacies, it is as suited to a day out in the countryside as it is to the beach. Also an ideal choice in warmer weather is the North Wales brewery’s Helles Lager (4.6% ABV). Made with Perle hops, this embraces a fresh, bready aroma and a smooth malty avour.

welshbeer.com

Wrexham Lager Sharer

Bring this 5L mini keg along to any picnic or barbecue – there will be plenty to go round. Chill it rst, then loosen the top air vent and release some of the gas pressure. Pull open the spout at the bottom and pour away. A true classic with a clean aroma, Wrexham Lager (4% ABV) is always a rm favourite on sunny summer days in Wales.

wrexhamlager.com

Dressing up

Sit down to a brimming plate full of flavour this summer – here in Wales, we have a spectrum of exceptional sauces, toppings and rubs to enhance your BBQ and firepit-cooked foods and to ensure you enjoy some outdoor feasts to remember.

Calon Lân

Leek Mustard

A delicious addition to any BBQ or lunch in Wales this summer, Calon Lân’s Leek Mustard is a great side spoonful for those looking for a condiment with a difference. Each jar of Calon Lân sauce, chutney or jam is carefully made in small batches by hand in Pwllheli on the Llŷn Peninsula – and the company’s Leek Mustard will bring that special Welsh flavour that you won’t find anywhere else…

calonlanfood.com

Celtic Preserves

Chilli Jam

Bringing that distinct balance between the sweet and spicy that works so well on BBQed and firepit-cooked foods, Celtic Preserves’ Chilli Jam always deserves a place at the table. Made with red pepper and chilli flakes, it works beautifully as a glaze for pork ribs or chicken, as well as a side-of-the-dish dipper. Look out too for the company’s Garlic Mustard that will also enrich any summer party or outdoor celebration. Perfect with meat, it goes just as well with outdoorroasted veggies, such as red pepper, cauliflower and carrot, and – like the Chilli Jam – is also available through Castell Howell.

celticpreserves.co.uk

castellhowellfoods.co.uk

Dylan’s

Dylan’s BBQ Sauce with Penderyn

This tasty addition to any BBQ plate combines the smoky flavours of Dylan’s own BBQ Sauce with Penderyn’s Welsh Gold Whisky. Thick and aromatic, it adds glorious depth to anything cooked out in the fresh air. Use it in your cooking or tip a healthy helping onto your freshly served food afterwards. And why not pop a portion of Dylan’s Piccalilli onto your plate too? The company’s award-winning, crunchy mustard relish will dress any dish with mouthfuls of magnificence.

dylansrestaurant.co.uk

Gower Brewery

Black Diamond BBQ Sauce

For a perfect pairing on the plate, a helping of Black Diamond BBQ Sauce brings together the full-bodied flavour of Welsh porter and the peppery punch of Pembrokeshire chillis. This collaboration between the Gower Brewery and the Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm has resulted in a saucy number that will have your guests reaching for more. Brewed with five different malts to create a porter with notes of chocolate, liquorice and coffee, Black Diamond makes an inspired and rich base for this mouth-watering condiment.

gowerbrewery.com

Halen Môn

Black Garlic Ketchup

Marinate your meat or veggie options in this sweet, earthy sauce, or help yourself to a generous portion just before you eat. The slow-cooked black garlic is made from cloves that are aged until they darken and develop a gorgeously sticky texture and deep flavour. Also available from Halen Môn or Blas ar Fwyd is Halen Môn’s Bloody Mary Ketchup. Who wouldn’t want all the flavour of the classic cocktail (complete with a dash of vodka!) on the side of their plate this summer?

halenmon.com blasarfwyd.com

Jones and Co

Saws Coch

For those who love nothing more than a decent helping of traditional tomato ketchup at a BBQ, try this delicious version from Jones and Co. These artisan preserves are produced in small batches in Llandeilo and will leave the supermarket versions at the back of your kitchen cupboard where they belong. Also available through Castell Howell is Jones and Co’s Saws Brown. This fruity bottle will also be a talking point at your next outdoor cooking and dining experience.

castellhowellfoods.co.uk

Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm

Cherry Boom Time BBQ Rub

Fire things up at your next BBQ with this scorching seasoning, also from the Pembrokeshire Chilli Farm. The company’s new Cherry Boom Time BBQ Rub is a bold choice, but a winner with those who love food that packs a punch. It brings sweet cherry flavour, as well as plenty of heat, to anything you are about to sizzle. Also try the Korean-inspired Miso Horny BBQ Rub. This has been infused with red miso and soy and is a great enhancement to the likes of chicken wings and ribs.

pembrokeshirechillifarm.com

Pembrokeshire Gold

Lemon Infused Rapeseed Oil

Perfect for summer marinades and leafy salads, this Lemon Infused Rapeseed Oil from Pembrokeshire Gold will complete your BBQ or outdoor cooking event. Made with 100% rapeseed oil, grown, pressed and bottled in Pembrokeshire, it can be used instead of refined oils and butter for roasting and dipping too. Light and nutty, it also offers a citrussy finish. Another winner when you are cooking and serving up in the fresh air and sunshine is the Manorbier company’s Smoked Rapeseed Oil…

pembrokeshiregold.co.uk

Picklebits

Organic Burger Pickles

Spoon on a generous helping of Organic Burger Pickles from Cwmbran-based Picklebits. These come in Hot and Spicy as well as Dill and Garlic pots. Infused with turmeric, mustard and pepper – plus dill and garlic, of course – the classic version of this side serving has a bright, zingy flavour. For those looking for even more of a lift, the Hot and Spicy recipe, which is enhanced with chilli flakes, will bring even more bounce to your burger bun.

picklebits.co.uk

The Coconut Kitchen

Miso, Sesame and Lime Dressing

Spice up the salad on your plate or dip your cooked meat and veg into this delicious Japanese-style dressing as you eat. From the Coconut Kitchen in Abersoch, this outdoor extra brings a nutty, sesame flavour, with a citrus tang and hint of black pepper. For those looking for even more kick, the company’s award-winning Sriracha Hot Chilli Sauce is a perfect plate livener. With no sugar, but a background sweetness that comes from pulped fresh onions, this features ginger, garlic, vinegar and salt – and plenty of chillis too, of course.

thecoconutkitchen.co.uk

Welsh Chilli, Smoky Inferno BBQ Dust

Go big and bold with this BBQ rub. Add it to your pork, beef or poultry before sizzling your cuts on the firepit or BBQ – and leave those who love scorching hot flavours weeping for more. Welsh Chilli’s superhot Smoky Inferno BBQ Dust has a deep smokehouse flavour that also works well on your vegetarian kebabs and ember-cooked carrots, sweet potatoes and red peppers. Made with Dragon’s Breath pepper powder, the seasoning, which can be sourced from both Welsh Chilli and Blas ar Fwyd, is also great on wings, ribs and burgers.

Welshchilli.com blasarfwyd.com

Welsh Homestead Smokery, BBQ Rub

Spice things up on the grill with one of the flavoursome BBQ Rubs from the Welsh Homestead Smokery. Available in Earth/Tir, Fire/Tân, Sea/Môr and Wood/ Pren versions, there’s one for every taste and occasion. Made with in-house smoked salt, Welsh Shiitake mushrooms and fermented black garlic, Earth/Tir, like the classic Wood/Pren, is a good all-rounder. Inspired by the Ceredigion coast, Sea/Môr is bursting with lemon, garlic, herbs and Welsh Laver Seaweed, as well as smoked salt, while Fire/Tân is perfect for those who can take the heat.

welshsmokery.co.uk

Welsh Lady Hell’s Mouth Mustard

Perfect for spreading onto everything that comes fresh from the firepit or BBQ to add a blast of chilli, it is a great choice for vegetarians as well as meat lovers. Hell’s Mouth Mustard is a smooth, hot option, made with paprika, garlic and chilli. Also available from Welsh Lady and via Blas ar Fwyd, and by contrast, Welsh Lady’s Caramelised Red Onion Chutney which will suit those who prefer something sweeter and with no heat at all.

welshladypreserves.com blasarfwyd.com

Y Deli

Lemon, Garlic and Pepper Sauce

It’s always fun to introduce your guests to something a little different when you invite them over to feast with you in the great outdoors – so how about this Lemon, Garlic and Pepper Sauce from Y Deli? Also available from Castell Howell, it is a citrussy sauce that offers a flavoursome fusion while also managing to be light and summery. For other interesting combinations, you could dip into Y Deli’s Chilli and Coconut Relish or Apple and Ale Chutney – both are also creative combinations that will leave people asking for more.

castellhowellfoods.co.uk

Forging Ahead in Food and Drink

The Welsh food and drink sector offers a myriad of opportunities for those seeking an exciting and fulfilling career – and for employers in the industry, focusing on training and skills development also brings huge benefits…

With a flourishing food and drink industry, a global reputation for excellence and an abundance of magnificent local produce, it is no wonder that Wales is a country of opportunity for those seeking to forge ahead in the sector. Today, 16% of jobs in Wales already fall within the food and drink supply chain and overall the sector is believed to be worth around £11 billion. Combine this with the wealth of dedicated, hardworking and creative people living here, and the potential is infinite both for individuals and employers.

Wales has one of the most environmentally and socially responsible food and drink supply chains in the world and the country’s mission is to grow the scale, value and productivity of its businesses within the field. From farm to fork, today more than 220,000 people are employed within the food and drink supply chain, contributing to a turnover of over £27 billion.

In total, there are over 28,000 different business units, between them offering a range of jobs and potential career paths.

From conjuring up culinary creations in innovative restaurants to working with the inspirational operations behind the production of our food and drink, the opportunities for a career in this area in Wales are as varied as they are numerous – and the Welsh food and drink industry rewards talent and enthusiasm with rapid promotion and responsibility.

For businesses, the support available to those wishing to enter the industry or progress within it can also be hugely beneficial. Those running operations in production and hospitality can not only take advantage of the funding available for skills improvement and qualifications, but also the support from training

officers and mentors who bring their own expertise and experience.

The Welsh Government works closely with training providers and employers to enhance the opportunities for working and progressing within the industry, and also mounts its own wide-ranging initiatives, such as Food & Drink Skills Wales, which aims to prepare employees across Wales to adapt to changes and opportunities in manufacturing and processing within the sector. Food and drink are in firm focus for the future of the country and this benefits employees and employers, as well as consumers.

Hands-On Experience

The incredibly diverse career opportunities in Welsh food and drink include hospitality, production, management, innovation, research and more – and within all areas, the roles are also wide-ranging. Hospitality, for example, encompasses kitchen work, which in turn ranges from porter or pot washer right up to executive chef. In production, the roles will be specific to the nature of the business and the food or drink item but might involve anything from hands-on creation to back office work and management.

Those taking their first steps into a career might find work by responding to advertisements, word of mouth and networking or could consider taking up an apprenticeship or a place on a college or university course. There is a wealth of information available out there on all these training opportunities, as well as career progression and skills development.

Independent provider Cambrian Training (CTC) specialises in training within hospitality and manufacturing in the food and drink sector in Wales. Supported by the Welsh Government, it has the largest number of learners in food and drink apprenticeship provision in Wales, taking on more than 500 people in hospitality and 110 in manufacturing every year.

Director of Governance, Angela Maguire-Lewis, explains they operate right across the country, offering qualifications from Level 2 up to Level 4. It works with a range of employers, aiming to inspire businesses, the workforce, and the wider community to support learners and help apprentices to achieve their dreams,

by learning new skills, knowledge and gaining experience. Apprentices are paid their working wage by their employers, but the apprenticeships are entirely funded by the Welsh Government.

“We very much deliver in the workplace and we work on a one-to-one basis with our learners,” she explains. “We go out to the site, and we operate on pan-Wales provision, making sure that we have niche, smallerscale manufacturers and hospitality employers, as well as larger, national ones.”

Apprentices may be those starting out in the industry for the first time or they may have already worked within it and now be seeking career progression and higher earning potential. Different jobs and apprenticeships will suit people with varying interests, skillsets and personalities.

“The jobs are so varied, but ultimately if you are thinking of working within this industry, then you have to be a people person – you need to be able to work directly with the customer,” Angela suggests.

“Quite often, it’s very much about being ‘hands on’ as well and being able to meet deadlines. It is a highpressure industry, whether on the manufacturing side and having to get those orders through, or working a busy restaurant shift, serving dozens of meals.”

She adds: “People learn and develop differently as they work and take part in the apprenticeship. The biggest thing that we are told by the employers, however, is that it is the confidence within the individuals that really improves.”

Career Change

Adam Pike, 32, is a Senior Chef de Partie at gastropub the Pant-yr-Ochain at Gresford, near Wrexham. He began his working life in the world of horseracing before opting for a change of employment and accepting a kitchen position.

Since then, he has honed his culinary skills and climbed the career ladder with speed. For the past three years, he has been on an apprenticeship with CTC and is now completing his Level 3 Professional Cookery.

Angela Maguire-Lewis
Adam Pike

Adam, who won the Skills Competition Wales Culinary Arts 2025/26 and Foundation Apprentice of the Year in the CTC Awards 2026, explains: “I was in horse-racing for about 16 years but felt I was getting a bit old for riding out and so decided to look for something else.

“Initially, I was just on a part-time contract at Pant-yrOchain, but after about two months, the head chef said they could put me on an apprenticeship to gain some qualifications. I hadn’t thought this would be an option for me, as I’d assumed it was something for much younger people.”

Since then, Adam has gone from strength to strength, with the support of CTC and the team at the restaurant.

“Everyone is very supportive and I like the buzz of cheffing, especially when we have a very busy service. At first, it was all a bit daunting, but you just get used to it. You learn how to handle the pressure and to manage your time.”

He adds: “My dream is to finish my apprenticeship and continue to progress. I would like to become an Executive Chef and maybe even do something on my own one day. I feel very lucky that I found this and that I wake up every morning and want to go to work.”

Individuals with Passion

Those seeking training and qualifications – or to improve their existing skills – in the Welsh food and drink industry also have the option of college and university courses. For example, North Walesbased Coleg Cambria offers a range of courses and apprenticeships in Hospitality and Catering and the NPTC Group of Colleges runs courses in Professional Cookery, Culinary Arts, Hospitality and Restaurant Service. It also oversees busy training restaurants and operates the Blasus Bakery Academy in Neath.

In Swansea, the University of Wales Trinity Saint David hosts BA (hons) degree courses in International Gastronomy Management and BA Hotel and Hospitality Management. These offer flexible studying and placements with industry employers.

Jemma Smith, Programme Manager for the International Gastronomy Management degree, says: “We get students from colleges who have completed Level 3 in Catering and Hospitality. But we also have a fair number from industry who are looking to hone their skills.

“A lot of students are noticing a pay barrier and, in order to be able to move on up and be promoted, they are looking to have a degree behind them – they not only want the hands-on experience but also the academic theory to underpin what they are doing.

“The Gastronomy Programme is designed to allow students to be creative in their thought process around food, not just in how they cook their food but how their food is produced. We spend a great deal of time looking at Welsh culture and Welsh produce.

“We work very closely with companies such as Castell Howell to try to ensure that we are using local produce, as well as talking about it.”

Natalie Brailsford, Programme Manager for Hospitality and Hotel Management, explains her course also offers classroom teaching and hands-on industry experience. She also works closely with the community and local businesses.

“We have some really exciting partnerships coming up for next year’s Level Five, where they will go and experience a lot of different areas within hospitality – everything from a community kitchen service with Swansea MAD, a community youth group, right up to working at the Michelin-starred Beach House in Oxwich Bay.

“This year we are also going to help with the grape harvest in Velfrey Vineyard, in West Wales, and are working with Penderyn Distillery. Our students are exposed to so many different operations and aspects of the industry.

“I think this is a very exciting time for the food and drink industry in Wales. There are lots of businesses coming through, lots of exciting new enterprises and it’s a period of change.”

Coleg Cambria

Food & Drink Skills Wales

The Welsh Government Sgiliau Bwyd a Diod Cymru/ Food & Drink Skills Wales programme, plays a pivotal role in supporting the growth and resilience of the Welsh food and drink sector, investing in people, strengthening businesses, and inspiring future talent. The programme provides support and funding for training to businesses operating within the food and drink processing and manufacturing sector across Wales.

Businesses interested in tapping into what Food & Drink Skills Wales can contact the team to discuss the options available to them. These include receiving up to 80% funding for training (based on eligibility), working alongside a dedicated Workforce Development Manager on identifying and addressing skills gaps.

Award-winning Ceredigion distillery In the Welsh Wind, participated in the programme and was awarded funding to help upskill its workforce. MD Ellen Wakelam says very few people start work there already having had distillery experience.

“We find working with Food & Drink Skills Wales very easy. The Workforce Manager is really helpful. We quite often need courses that aren’t provided for through the framework directly, but there is a very easy process.

“I would say that the WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) course has been brilliant across the board because, for every role, it adds something to that individual. Another course where we have seen tangible benefits very quickly is the Commercial Skills course.”

Caerphilly-based Castle Dairies employs some 100 people across a variety of jobs requiring different skills. Via training funded by Food & Drink Skills Wales, the business is able to ensure its team remains efficient, productive and at the forefront of innovation.

One such recipient, a Technical Manager, who started off in production as a blender, quickly progressed up the ladder to become a team leader. He says: “I think the best thing about the food and drink industry is its

versatility. I work in food safety, but you could be the supply chain, HR or accounts, for example.

“There are so many different avenues that you can work in and there is so much that you can learn in the food industry. There is always room to earn more and do more – and it’s a great challenge.”

West Wales-based Dà Mhìle, an independent organic distillery in West Wales, has also partnered with Food & Drink Skills Wales to enhance its team’s skills.

Distiller Ioan Pearce explains: “Food & Drink Skills Wales has supported us on a range of courses, tailored to our specific needs. The training provided resulted in significant improvements to our production, in both technique and efficiency. The support allowed us to access courses that were directly related to our industry and allowed the business to make important networking connections with suppliers, distributors and other Welsh food and drink producers.”

Growing Future Talent

Businesses in the sector can also turn to other commercial operations, training organisations and trade associations for support and advice on development. Specialist recruitment firms can help source just the right individuals to assist with internal growth in both hospitality and production. The Culinary Association of Wales develops chefs and caterers through training, competitions, demonstrations and visits, while also facilitating the sharing and exchanging of skills and knowledge. Apprenticeships can also be an excellent way for employers to future-proof their operations, according to CTC’s Angela Maguire-Lewis.

“It is about ensuring that you have that future talent pipeline. We can bring that expertise by doing the accreditation side of the programme. Also, all of our training officers are industry based. They will come from the industry and this gives employers access to that expertise within their business, funded by the Welsh Government.

“This is an asset that you can tap into to be able to ensure that you are growing your future talent – and

Ellen Wakelam
Dà Mhìle
Food & Drink Skills Wales team

left Mark Hughes, Operations Manager at Cambrian Training Company with Directors from Farmer’s Pantry

you can do the same by offering apprenticeships to some existing employees as well. It’s an opportunity to be able to upskill your workforce.”

Among the manufacturers and food producers that have teamed up with CTC are Cardiff-based Farmers Pantry Butchers. Here, the apprenticeship programme has been crucial to growth and supporting expansion from a family farm into an award-winning, multi-site butchery, retail and catering business.

By developing skilled butchers and technical staff internally, the company has overcome sector-wide skills shortages while maintaining exceptional quality and customer service. With clear progression routes, hands-on mentoring and digital engagement, the programme builds confident professionals who drive performance and secure the organisation’s long-term future.

Owner Rhodri Davies says: “At Farmers Pantry, we believe we are only as strong as our team and our recent awards recognition reinforces our commitment to creating a workplace where employees can develop, succeed and build rewarding careers.”

The apprenticeship programme has also been vital to the growth of the Penycae Inn in Bannau Brycheiniog/ the Brecon Beacons by helping a small team build capability, confidence and long-term stability. Over three years, apprentices have strengthened the kitchen, front-of-house and new hotel, improving service quality and filling key skills gaps.

Anthony Christopher, who co-owns Penycae Inn with his wife, Claire, observes: “It’s fantastic to see the development of our apprentices and how they add value to the business. It creates a much better environment when staff learn hands-on skills within the business and the support from Cambrian Training Company has been exceptional.”

Hilltop Honey, based in Newtown, Mid-Wales, is another success story. This began as a small beekeeping hobby and has developed into one of the UK’s leading honey brands, supplying a wide range of products to major retailers while focusing on quality, sustainability and ethical sourcing.

Kate Preston, HR and Training Co-ordinator, says: “Not everyone gets the chance to go to university. Apprenticeships open doors for people at all stages of life. At Hilltop, apprenticeships aren’t just about training – they’re about creating opportunities, strengthening the workforce, supporting local jobs, and helping people build lasting careers while staying close to their families and communities.”

Attitude Over Ability

Hywel Griffith, Head Chef at the Michelin-starred Beach House, Oxwich, agrees there are many benefits to employers, as well as employees, of cultivating Welsh talent. He says the food and drink industry has moved on and those interested in restaurant work should not be dissuaded by the myths.

“Gone are the 100-plus hour weeks,” he emphasises. “The industry has changed, and a healthy work-life balance is absolutely achievable. However, if you have an underlying issue with working evenings or weekends, then you should probably reconsider your options.

“I, for one, love being able to go to the shops when most people are at work or taking time off and going on holiday when everywhere is quiet. I have never wished for a ‘normal’ nine-to-five life.

“The Welsh food and drink industry is evolving and growing year on year. It’s a superb feeling to not only be involved but to be at the forefront of this growth. Traditionally, Wales wasn’t viewed as a food destination at all, so bringing people from across Wales and further afield to our lovely spot here on Gower is an absolute joy.”

Those wishing to succeed should have a “can-do” attitude and the ability to be flexible and adaptable to ever-changing situations. The most important part of his own training was “just turning up every day and keeping chipping away at it.”

“In this fabulous industry, there is no fast track or week-long course to learn it all. I’m 25 years in and I find I’m still learning on the job to this day. As my responsibilities have changed over the years and more

On
Hilltop - Rachel Bowles
Arron Jones Penycae Inn
Hywel Griffith

people now depend on my leadership, it has opened up another door to my own need and desire to learn and remain adaptable.

“Attitude over ability is by far the number one factor when bringing any employee on board. For senior leadership roles, skills are obviously essential. However, if an appointment causes friction within the team, or if you can’t maintain a good work attitude and turn up when you’re supposed to, then talent is pretty pointless.”

Gareth Ward, Head Chef at Ynyshir, near Machynlleth, the only restaurant in Wales with two Michelin stars, agrees that there are huge opportunities within the industry for those with passion. He also stresses how important it is for restaurants to nurture talent.

“The Welsh food and drink industry is very up and coming,” he says. “We have got some ex-Ynyshir staff like Matt Sampson, who has opened his own little restaurant (FIR), which is really cool. There’s also Gwen, which we opened with Peter Sanchez Iglesias this month – that’s obviously going to be amazing –and Chris Hardie, of Grandad Needs His Medicine, who is smashing it.”

When Ynyshir recruits, it looks for a good attitude, willingness to learn, passion and someone willing to sacrifice to become the best.

“It’s all about love and passion, wanting to cook and give hospitality to make people happy,” he adds. “Do your research, absorb as much information as possible and start working in the best restaurants or hotels in the world.”

Overflowing With Opportunity

There is nowhere quite like Wales with its abundance of unique food products and exciting options for dining. The industry here is overflowing with opportunity for those eager to find their place within it – and there are roles within it for everyone from school leavers through to those seeking a career change.

By simultaneously promoting the country and celebrating its success as a global food nation, the

Welsh Government believes there are huge benefits to those living and working here, especially those operating within the industry.

With passion, dedication and an enthusiasm to learn, those with diverse interests can carve out their own niche within the food and drink sector. With the right training, support and qualifications, the sky really is the limit.

Llyr Gruffydd Cabinet Minister for Rural Resilience and Sustainability, said: “Wales has a world-class food and drink sector that supports one in six jobs across the country, and we want to build on that success. Our National Food Strategy will be a significant plan to transform the nation’s food systems – from farm to fork.

“The kind of food system that we want to see, the kind of food economy that we want to see in Wales, will be based on local production, local processing and local procurement. We therefore need to maintain and strengthen each element of that.

“Through programmes such as Food and Drink Skills Wales and our continued investment in apprenticeships and workforce development, the Welsh Government is helping businesses to grow, innovate and future-proof their operations, while creating opportunities for people from all backgrounds to reach their full potential.

“The inspiring stories featured here demonstrate the talent, passion and ambition that exist throughout the sector. By investing in skills, nurturing future talent and supporting lifelong learning, we are strengthening Wales’ reputation as a world-class food and drink nation and ensuring the industry continues to thrive for generations to come.”

For more information:

Food & Drink Skills Wales: rhaglenni.mentera.cymru/foodanddrinkskillswales Cambrian Training (CTC): cambriantraining.com Coleg Cambria: cambria.ac.uk

Culinary Association of Wales: welshculinaryassociation.com

NPTC Group of Colleges: nptcgroup.ac.uk

University of Wales Trinity Saint David: uwtsd.ac.uk

Ynyshir
Gareth Ward
Llyr Gruffydd MS Cabinet Minister for Rural Resilience and Sustainability
© Joshua Greenwood

This is Food and Drink. This is Wales.

The Welsh Government’s Sgiliau Bwyd a Diod Cymru / Food & Drink Skills Wales programme helps Wales’ food and drink businesses build a skilled, resilient workforce. Eligible manufacturing and processing businesses can access up to 80% funding for training in areas including leadership, marketing, production, sustainability and compliance.

With support from dedicated Workforce Development Managers, businesses receive expert guidance to develop talent, strengthen performance and drive growth, alongside valuable networking opportunities across the sector.

The programme also works with schools, colleges and industry partners to inspire the next generation and showcase the diverse career opportunities available in food and drink.

Find out more: fooddrinkskills.wales

Caroline Sarll

To Bee or

Not to Bee

Milestone Month in this family. Our Elder Dortie is turning 30. At her Birth-to-Big-Girl bash, the bu etbantz turned to those once-popular Personality Tests. Predictably, I am a Protagonist. And yet, mavens as Myers and Briggs (the concept inventors) were, they have clearly missed my true category: the Vacillating Veganarian. Yup. Along with now “seeing” macerated male chicks when I consume cake or quiche, and constantly-inseminated cows when using milk, I have a new, truly sticky pickle to ponder: as I consider discarding dairy, should honey also be on my hit list?

is is a tough one, as I’ve had a lifelong, Winniee-Pooh penchant for this most intricately-produced Nature’s nectar. But a chat with some vegan friends has re- agged the thorny issue of whether commodifying bees is cruel. e plant-based purists and animal welfare activists include Queen Bee wing-clipping (done to stop her and thus her hive absconding) and the removal of honey, which the bees need to feed themselves, as two dubious practices. No excuse for either intervention, with the former akin to a Lord of the Flies boy-mob mentality. Yet, a er talking to some of Wales’ apiarists and honey farmers, it seems that this practice only occurs in commercial, not smallscale, production. Ditto the honey removal. “We only harvest from the top hive layer” says Anthony Smith, founder of Llangattock Apiaries and the purveyor of inspired, delicious produce, such as their sumptuously glutinous, ganache-like, Raspberry Infusion. Crucially, adds Anthony, “Vast numbers of colonies which swarm in the wild die prematurely – so they have a better survival rate if farmed by ethically-minded keepers”. I’m no expert, but buying local, it seems, can combat cruelty and, using only indigenous ora, the provenance is (hopefully) more transparent.

Cue a bigger bugbear in the honey eld, which eclipses my cognitive dissonance regarding the morality of nectar-noshing. Contamination. I recently bought a jar of “honey” to make apjacks, paying the princely sum of 74p. A honeybee only produces about a twel h of a teaspoon and travels around 500 miles in its entire lifetime – with a worker bee dying exhausted a er 3-6 weeks. With said honey label vaguely declaring “produce of China” (the world’s biggest honeyproducer), I knew the economics did not add up. Factor in transport and packaging costs and this price - for untampered honey - is just not viable.

A recent EU investigation, “From the Hives”, revealed that China, the UK, and other countries performed poorly in authenticity tests. Despite the 2015 Honey Regulations, decreeing that no “additions” are permitted, testing shows that much of our mainstream merchandise remains adulterated with sugar or syrup – sadly, Ovid’s “deadly poisons are concealed under sweet honey” still applies. Ubiquitous, vague “blends” can be di cult to trace. “It’s a worldwide problem”, says Lynne Ingram of the Honey Authenticity Network, which works tirelessly to combat this insidious food fraud. “If honey’s been contaminated with sugars or syrup, then it must be declared as a honey- avoured syrup”. One goal is for UK regulations to align with the EU’s new, strict Honey Directive, which mandates clear labelling. Newtown’s Hilltop Honey promises twice-tested, “100% Pure and Natural” produce. It’s also implementing QR tracing codes, o ering origin location, if not the actual apiary or farm. eir Welsh Blossom, from Powys hives, is truly melli uous.

Wales has a plethora of small, responsible honey farms, o ering uncorrupted, unpasteurized, single origin jars of fabulously- oral, high-viscosity ambrosia. Most sell for around £7, which could, I fear, make such wholesome honey the preserve (how serendipitous!) of the comfortably o . e caviar of condiments.

So, to support our small farmers, once we’ve made peace with our principles (I haven’t), we must all dig deep, seek out neighbourhood-nuanced products - and use as an occasional treat. Problem solved?

Hmmm. I still wonder why I’ve yet to see a bee brandishing a hammer in my garden, building itself a wooden hive. eir natural hives, feats of unbelievable instinctive engineering and innate industry are surely telling us that it’s questionable to encourage such beautiful ovoid creatures into man-made, soulless boxes. And they sting their hazmat-suited harvesters regularly – presumably feeling threatened? Should I just eat ersatz products, like caramelly amber agave syrup (Waitrose and other supermarkets)? I am totally con icted by this whole honey-for-money conundrum. How discomforting that money is, indeed, the only word in the English language resembling honey... But, oh, how wonderful and nutritious a Pooh-inspired “smackerel” of our small-farmed, Welsh honey tastes. Help.

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From Hydration to Recovery: How Brecon Carreg Is Giving Plastic Bottles a Second Life

When thousands of runners crossed the finish line at this year’s Brecon Carreg Porthcawl 10K, they weren’t just celebrating a personal achievement. Together, they became part of an innovative circular economy initiative that’s helping redefine what can happen to a plastic bottle when it’s finished.

As title sponsor of one of Wales’ most popular road races, Brecon Carreg kept more than 6,800 runners hydrated throughout the day. But the journey didn’t end once the last bottle was finished.

Thanks to a new sustainability partnership with Welsh sports recovery manufacturer LAYR55, thousands of Brecon Carreg bottles were collected across the event village, finish area and along the course by dedicated recycling teams. Rather than entering the conventional recycling stream, the bottles will now be transformed into high-performance athlete recovery equipment using advanced 3D printing technology over the coming months.

It’s a simple idea with a powerful impact. The very bottles that helped fuel runners on race day will soon become physiotherapy foam rollers to support athletes long after they’ve crossed the finish line.

The initiative demonstrates how collaboration between Welsh businesses can create practical solutions that reduce waste while keeping valuable materials in use for longer. By rethinking what happens to everyday packaging after use, Brecon Carreg is helping turn recycling into something tangible, visible and relevant.

The project also reflects the brand’s wider commitment to sustainability alongside its longstanding support for Welsh sport and community wellbeing. From encouraging runners to recycle on race day to investing in innovative reuse initiatives, Brecon Carreg continues to look beyond hydration to the broader environmental impact of the events it supports.

For LAYR55, the collected bottles represent the raw material for a new generation of recovery products manufactured here in Wales. Over the coming months, the recycled plastic will be processed and transformed into durable foam rollers, extending the life of the material while reducing reliance on virgin plastics.

The success of the initiative at the Porthcawl 10K highlights how small actions by thousands of individuals can add up to something much biggerEvery bottle placed in a recycling bin contributed to a product with a new purpose.

As Brecon Carreg continues to support sporting events across Wales, initiatives like this demonstrate that hydration and sustainability can go hand in hand, creating lasting benefits for athletes, communities and the environment alike.

www.breconwater.co.uk

A Taste of the Preseli Hills: The Story Behind Golden Road Gin

Combing the high ridges of the Preseli Hills, lies an ancient hilltop track. On a clear day, you can see out over the Irish Sea to Ireland, the Llŷn Pensinula and Snowdonia, to mention but a few of its sweeping vistas. Named The Golden Road, the track was trodden by prehistoric travellers as a main route to and from Ireland. To this day, to walk along this path is seen as a stirring experience by those who venture upon it. It feels only natural to imagine that those who live in its shadow are inspired by it.

Phil and Jennifer Wheeler live in such a place. Their smallholding in West Wales sits within view of those very hills - a landscape that has, in turn, inspired their product, Golden Road Gin.

In 2021, following a life-changing moment that stopped both in their tracks, they began look at life differently. They began asking questions, about what truly matters most. They came to the same conclusion and began on their new venture to build something meaningful together.

“Something like that really focusses the mind,” says Phil, “Friends, family and connection are what’s important to us. We wanted to do something that combined working with the land, on our small farm, and creating something to bring people together.”

Having always enjoyed gin, the pair wanted to create something that stood apart from harsher spirits. Using Jennifer’s expertise as a previously trained chef and a passion for flavour, they learned the importance of how different ingredients can work together whilst

complimenting one another. Once the recipe was refined after about 18 months, they had a gin that could be enjoyed purely on its own, over ice, or with tonic and a twist of orange zest. The end result is a layered and aromatic profile of citrus from sweet orange and lemon, fresh bay from their own farm, cardamom, pink peppercorn warmth and a floral note from Japanese cherry tea.

Even from its early conception, Golden Road Gin was being recognised in a very positive light, which was confirmation enough that they were on the right path. Within a few months of launching, Golden Road Gin was entered into the Great Taste Awards and received a one-star award.

“The award showed us that the liquid itself had real potential”, says Phil, “but one of the main challenges was coming up with ways of how to stand out in an already bustling market.” They needed to learn how to build a brand that could catch people’s attention and imaginations from the shelf. As it says on their website, “We weren’t interested in creating a fashionable gin. We wanted to create a genuinely delicious, elegant and refreshing spirit. One we’d proudly pour for friends.”

(www.goldenroadgin.co.uk)

That is where the support from Welsh Governmentfunded programme Cywain, and the wider Food & Drink Wales network, became pivotal. Phil speaks highly of Nerys Adams, the producer’s Regional Growth Manager from Cywain.

“Nerys has been exceptional from the beginning. From

connecting us with new opportunities, to introducing us to mentors, her support has been priceless. The guidance we have received from Cywain from the start has got us to where we are today.”

The pair highlighted that programmes such as Cywain aren’t only supportive, but a part of a wider community of experts within the food and drink industry here in Wales. A plethora of passionate individuals, who together elevate the industry into one of the proudest in the World. This passion, alongside the understanding of the challenges of growing a food and drink business in Wales, makes for a powerful community to be able to access. This type of support isn’t simply about grant funding or attending events; it is about relationships, honest feedback and access to people with experience.

“When we exhibited at the Farm Shop & Deli Show for the first time in 2024 with Welsh Government, we instantly came to realise the value of being at events. We were able to discuss our vision and brand with expert mentors in the industry” says Phil, “This is also when we had some very honest and valuable feedback about our original branding!”

“Several people praised the gin itself but suggested that the bottle and visual identity were not doing the product justice.” Rather than ignore the criticism, Phil and Jennifer acted on it. With support through Cywain, including help towards branding costs, they worked with a Cardiff design company to create a fresh new look. The impact was dramatic. Phil says the business moved from around 34 stockists to more than 250 to 300 outlets and wholesalers in roughly a year. Naturally, the redesign did not change the heart of the business, but it helped the outside of the bottle finally mirror the quality inside.

From that moment on, the awards and recognition have continued. From a Best in Class for branding at the World Gin Awards, to most recently winning Gold at the San Francisco Global Spirits Awards.

“Success like this has to come through constant improvement.” Says Phil, highlighting that the

importance of listening and adapting has become a part of the brand’s character and strength. Community spirit is something else that runs throughout the business, as does collaboration. Phil describes how other producers have shared advice, equipment, opportunities and encouragement.

“Collaborations have become an important part of Golden Road Gin’s growth, whether through joint stands at events, partnerships with other local producers or campaigns with other Welsh brands.”

Phil and Jennifer have found strength in working alongside other producers. From making gift boxes with Brecon Chocolates, to sharing stand space at an event with Trefaldwyn Cheese, they see the value in coming together. In their view, collaboration helps everyone reach new audiences, share priceless knowledge and build a stronger food and drink sector.

Phil and Jennifer are also beginning to give back to the landscape that inspired Golden Road Gin. Working with Pembrokeshire Coast National Park,10p from every bottle sold is donated to support conservation projects. Their first fundraising walk took participants onto the Preseli Hills with a local archaeologist before returning to a pub for a gin tasting, raising £720 for the park. Phil and Jennifer believe strongly that the land behind the brand also deserves to benefit from their success, which is why the pair attend as many local events as possible, and donate where they can.

Looking ahead, the ambition is clear. Phil and Jennifer’s eagerness to grow is palpable, which is reaping success nationwide, and worldwide. Whilst building momentum across Wales, Golden Road Gin is also exploring opportunities in England and London, and has already taken steps into export markets, including a showcase in Japan. The business has also supplied events beyond Wales, including the Channel Islands, and continues to seek the right stockists, venues and partners. The aim is not simply to be present everywhere, but to be in the places where their values are mirrored.

What stands out most in Phil and Jennifer’s story is the combination of resilience and readiness. They have made the most of the support available to them, because they have been willing to do the work. Their proactive and productive nature is a perfect recipe for success, paired with the support on offer from the Welsh Government Food and Drink programmes. From attending events to taking on the criticism in a constructive way, they are building relationships and learning a lot as they go. Phil says producers from elsewhere often struggle to believe the level of support available through the Welsh food and drink sector. But he is also clear that support works best as a partnership. Nerys Adams, Regional Growth Manager, agrees:

“It has been fantastic working with Phil and Jen.” She praises, “They are consistently a pleasure to support. Friendly, approachable, and genuinely committed to collaboration, not only with us but also with fellow clients. Their willingness to share experiences and

champion others really strengthens the wider network. They’ve made the most of every opportunity within the Cywain support package, from test trading and mentoring sessions to workshops and branding development and have approached each element with enthusiasm and openness. Importantly, they are always receptive to feedback and keen to evolve, which makes them a standout example of how to fully engage with and benefit from the programme.”

From a life-changing moment on their smallholding in West Wales to award-winning bottles now reaching customers across the UK and beyond, Golden Road Gin is well and truly solidifying its presence within the Welsh food and drink industry. Inspired by the Preseli Hills and strengthened by the support of Wales’ food and drink community, Phil and Jennifer have built a brand that celebrates the simple joy of coming together over a glass (or two) of something quite special, and connecting with each other once more.

Lemoncello Gin Fizz

How to enjoy a glass of Golden Road Gin, other than simply on the rocks or with a clean tonic water: (taken from their website www.goldenroadgin.co.uk)

Ingredients

• Golden Road Gin - 45ml

• Lemoncello - 15ml

• Fresh Lime Juice - Half Lime

• Simple Sugar Syrup - splash

• Sparkling Water

• Mint to Garnish

Method

1. Place the ingredients (except the garnish) into a jug or something similar, you just

want to make sure you have enough room to give everything a good stir.

2. Add ice and stir until cool.

3. Sieve into your favourite glass, add your chosen amount of ice and top up with sparkling water.

4. Garnish with fresh mint

#STIRRINGSTUFF

blending teas for our wonderful Welsh water since 1989

A Taste of the Sea

Blue skies, salty air and the gentle sound of lapping waves – for those seeking to dine beside the sea, the magnificent Welsh coastline offers a myriad of exceptional options. Here’s taste.blas’ ‘baker’s dozen’ seaside restaurants worth reserving a table at this summer…

Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias

Porth Eirias

Colwyn Bay

A Michelin Bib Gourmand and AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales award winner, Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias is an exceptional beachfront bistro commanding sweeping coastal views. Head to this North Wales pearl to sample fine seafood specialities and other locally inspired delicacies, all conceived by the renowned celebrity chef.

Experience, for example, the unique flavours of the Gin-Cured Salmon, with Gin and Tonic Jelly, Cucumber Chutney and Lemon Preserve or the Crab Rarebit, with White Crab Salad, Stout and Onion Sourdough. For those with a sweet tooth, there is Porth Eirias Baked Alaska and Buttermilk Pannacotta, complemented by Bryn’s Kitchen Rhubarb and Ginger. portheirias.com

Coast Deli and Dining

Aberdyfi

Gwynedd

Head to the seafront in Aberdyfi to look out over Church Bay from Coast Deli and Dining. By day, this is a relaxed beach bar renowned for its breakfasts and lunches, while by night it transforms into a popular bistro.

Start the day with a Full Aberdyfi Breakfast, heaped with Cured Bacon, Edwards of Conwy Sausage, Free-Range Egg, Cherry Vine Tomatoes, Laverbread and Cockles, Sautéed Mushrooms, Organic Black and White Pudding. For lunch, order Fresh Mussels, with Welsh cider, Leeks, Cream and Garlic. For dinner, the Seared Fresh Tuna, with Niçoise Salad and Pembrokeshire Potatoes, will keep you coming back for more.

coastaberdyfi.com

Dylan’s in Criccieth

Criccieth

Llŷn Peninsula

Dylan’s is known for several coastal establishments – it has restaurants in Menai Bridge, Llandudno, Conwy and Criccieth. Dylan’s in Criccieth, between the Llŷn Peninsula and Eifionydd, is especially noteworthy. Set within the splendid, glass-fronted Art Deco-style Morannedd building, it looks out towards both the sea and Criccieth Castle.

Peruse its menus for a range of dishes with ingredients from the Welsh countryside and sea. Look out for Anglesey Seared Scallops, with Piccalilli, Pea Puree and a Parma Ham Crisp and Seafood Chowder Salmon, created from Smoked Haddock, King Prawns, Clams and Menai Mussels. For veggies, the Leek Pesto Mafaldine, with Pasta Môn and Pant-Ys-Gawn Goats Cheese will be a winner.

dylansrestaurant.co.uk

Lan y Môr Restaurant

Coppet Hall Beach

Saundersfoot

Overlooking the golden sands and rolling waves of Coppet Hall Beach, Lan y Môr is a marriage of two great culinary minds. Hywel Griffith, Head Chef at the Beach House, teams up with former Head Chef of the Grove of Narberth, Gerwyn Jones. Together they have created a menu bursting with Welsh flavour.

Snack on Atlantic Edge Oysters, with an Orange and Malt Vinegar Mignonette, or Selwyn’s Gower Frockels, Crispy Cockles, with Chili Salt and Nori Mayonnaise. Try the Red Lentil and Carrot Burger or the Pembrokeshire Steaks that come with Fire Roasted Red Pepper, Chimichurri and Rocket Salad.

lanymorsaundersfoot.co.uk

Martha’s Vineyard

Milford Haven Marina Pembrokeshire

With a balcony overlooking the bustling Marina and views across to Angle, this buzzing restaurant is a great place to spend a summer’s evening. With a large outdoor area, a rustic clapperboard interior and a menu full of locally sourced produce, it’s a favourite with locals and visitors alike.

Try the Market Fish & Shellfish Stew, all locally caught, with rouille and grilled focaccia, or the Gower Mussels in Pembrokeshire Cider Cream. For meat lovers, there’s Welsh Rib Eye, or the mouthwatering Martha’s Cheese Burger, made with a Welsh beef patty from a local butcher and topped with, among many things, melted Welsh cheddar.

www.marthasvineyard.co.uk

ROK Mumbles

Mumbles Swansea

Still a relative newcomer to the coastal dining party, ROK Mumbles has already proved it offers something new and different. With vistas across Bracelet Bay, you will be mesmerised by the crashing waves as well as the tempting dishes.

If you are looking for a snack or small plate, try the milk bun, with seaweed butter, or Swansea smoked salmon, alongside wasabi yoghurt and jalapeño. For something more robust, the Black Truffle-Stuffed Chicken, with Sea Truffle Butter and BBQ Spring Onion or Market Fish, with Warm Tartare Sauce, could be a memorable choice.

rokmumbles.co.uk

The Beach House

Oxwich

The Gower

Set on the shores of spectacular Oxwich Beach, Head Chef Hywel Griffith offers a dining experience like no other. Holding a coveted Michelin Star and three AA Rosettes, this former coal house has become a destination for food lovers from across Wales and beyond. Absorb the views out across the Oxwich dunes, the Cefyn Bryn ridge and Three Cliffs Bay as you sit down to plates that feature ingredients that have been reared, caught, picked or grown close by.

Try the Oxwich Bay Lobster, for example, with Broccoli, Fennel, Rye Grains, Turnip, Fried Rice and Roasted Lobster Butter Sauce or Fresh Brill, with Caramelised Cauliflower, White Asparagus, Salty Fingers, Grape and Nasturtium with a Kelp and Bonito Sauce.

beachhouseoxwich.co.uk

The Bluebell Bistro

New Quay West Wales

Keep your eyes open for dolphins as you gaze out across Cardigan Bay from the Bluebell Bistro in New Quay. This friendly restaurant is set within a building that has been renovated to include swathes of glass to bring the sea views right inside.

Specials here include the likes of Whole Bream, with Tomato and Red Pesto Butter or Half a New Quay Lobster, with Garlic Butter and Freshwater Prawn Panzanella. The Cardigan Bay Crab Roll makes a great lunchtime treat.

bluebellbistro.co.uk

The Harbour Master

Aberaeron Ceredigion

Watch the boats drift in and out from Aberaeron Harbour as you savour fresh Cardigan Bay shellfish and fish from this West Wales restaurant. An independently owned boutique hotel, bar and restaurant, the Harbour Master is also known for its Welsh Lamb and Beef, Ceredigion cheeses and locally grown organic vegetables.

Tantalise the taste buds with a Pembrokeshire Oyster on Ice, with Lemon and Shallot Vinegar. Move on to enjoy Seared Scallops, teamed up with Rattray’s Black Pudding, Cauliflower and Crispy Onion or Fish of the Day, with Mash, Spinach, Mussels and a Welsh Cider and Saffron Sauce.

harbour-master.com

The Tavern on the Bay

Red Wharf Bay Isle of Anglesey

From this restaurant at Red Wharf Bay, you can look out over the sand and along the Anglesey coastline. You can even see over to Llandudno and the Great Orme. Customers are also treated to the gentle sounds of the resident pianist as they savour dishes from a seasonal and very Welsh menu.

This summer, look out for the Smoked Salmon and Prawn Tian, with Dill Mayonnaise, and the Tavern Chowder, made with Hake, Cod and Salmon, together with White Wine, Garlic, Cream and Diced Potato. Welsh Pork and Leek Sausages in a Rich Onion, Gravy, with Crispy Onions, Creamed Potato and Fresh Vegetables also feature.

thetavernonthebay.co.uk

Tir a Môr

Voco St David’s Hotel

Cardiff

Set within St David’s, a luxury five-star hotel overlooking Cardiff Bay and Penarth Marina, Tir a Môr lives up to its name in bringing together the finest Welsh produce from both the land and the sea. Enjoy everything from snacks and sharing plates to several courses as you take in the sweeping coastal vistas.

From the land, try the Roasted Rump of Brecon Lamb, with a Summer Vegetable Tartlet and Mint Gel. From the sea, order the Grilled Fillet of Salmon, with Apple and Kohlrabi Choucroute, Trealy Farm 25 Chorizo and Potato Terrine. Round off your meal with an Aber Falls Whiskey Crème Liqueur Crème Brulé, accompanied by Pine Nut Shortbread.

stdavids.vocohotels.com/eat The Shed Porthgain Pembrokeshire

The Tŷ Coch Inn

Porthdinllaen

Llŷn Peninsula

Renowned for its hearty dishes prepared with fresh lobsters, crabs and fish, all landed by its owners from the quay right in front of the restaurant, the Shed describes itself as an informal fish bistro. Rustic, characterful and with a roaring wood burner to bask beside after bracing walks along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, it prides itself on its hearty, homemade dishes.

Look out for the Whole Sea Bream cooked En Papilotte and served with Fresh Thyme, Lemon and Garlic and the Pan-Fried Loin of Hake, accompanied by Tenderstem Broccoli, Romesco Sauce and Herb Oil. Non-meat eaters will not regret dipping into the Wild Mushroom and Seaweed Risotto, served with Parmesan Shavings.

theshedporthgain.co.uk

Tucked away in the village of Porthdinllaen, this hidden gem has a truly unique appeal. Views are out across the Irish Sea towards Yr Eifl, access is by foot only – and the restaurant doesn’t serve food in the evenings. Yet, its delicious local fare and friendly welcome have seen it regularly top lists of best-ever seaside restaurants, not only in Wales but also the world.

Run by the same family for more than 50 years, it offers the likes of Moules Marinière, with a Green Salad, Coleslaw and Multigrain Baguette, and Duck Pie, with a Port and Wild Mushroom Bread Pudding and Rich Sauce, as well as wholesome, heaped dishes of coastal delights such as Shrimp Rolls and Crab Salads.

tycoch.co.uk

Martha’s Vineyard

We’re sitting on a balcony, the buzz of happy conversation around us, looking out over a marina full of impressive yachts. The baking sun shimmers off the water as we peruse a menu stuffed with local produce, including seafood landed directly across the harbour. It doesn’t get much better. Are we in Biscay, Amalfi maybe, or Cape Cod? Nope — we’re in Milford Haven. And it’s glorious.

As we deliberate over the menu, enjoying a pint of Tenby Harbour ‘Stack Rock’, Dan, Martha’s friendly owner, talks us through the specials. Turns out he’s from a family of local fishermen, so it’s no wonder fish features strongly. And it’s all local, landed in Milford or

nearby. It’s an ethos that proud local Dan extends to all other parts of the menu too – steaks and lamb, breads and veg, puddings and booze.

And boy does it make a difference. The Gower Mussels, my starter, were the plumpest, juiciest and tastiest I’ve ever had: sweet, sea-salty bon-bons of flavour, presented in a cracking cream and Pembrokeshire cider sauce. The tart, dry cider wonderfully cut through the deliciously garlicky cream, eagerly mopped up with a local tomato and herb focaccia, smothered in butter from nearby Netherend Farm. B’s honey-glazed halloumi hit the spot too - perfectly cooked and served with a zesty, spicy harissa and sumac yoghurt to complement the sweet honey, rounded off with crunchy, fresh pea shoots.

For mains, I had to go for the Pembrokeshire Sea Bass special, landed that morning. Exactly as a really fresh sea bass fillet should be, it was delicate and sweet, with a slightly buttery, nutty flavour, grilled perfectly so the moist, firm flakes just melt in your mouth. Exquisite. The warm paprika of the patatas bravas side was a clever choice that added contrast, as did the punchy zest and herb hit of the lime and coriander yoghurt.

B’s homemade Beetroot and Vegan Feta Ravioli was no less impressive. Thoughtfully put together, it looked beautiful — all purple and green jewels — and tasted great. The sweet beetroot, tangy feta, sage butter, toasted pine nuts and herb oil worked harmoniously to create a very special dish.

As is our habit, we also shared a bowl of chips. And Martha’s came up trumps here too. From local Norton Farm spuds, twice-cooked with skin-on, they were crisp on the outside, soft in the middle and got a huge thumbs-up. All washed down with a delightful, fresh, dry Ke Bonta Pinot Grigio.

Despite the weather, I opted for a traditional, seemingly wintery, pud, Spiced Rum Sponge, but with a twist, or four. The sponge was delightfully light, fluffy and not OTT sweet. Twist number one is the extraordinary sheep’s milk (from their own farm) infused spiced rum from local company Fifth Flock, which elevates the sponge, adding rich cinnamon, clove and ginger. Twists two, three and four add a summery, tropical slant: a tart and sweet mango and apple salsa, crunchy toasted coconut, and finally, a light, tangy, mellow vanilla crème fraîche to cut through the sweetness. A great combo. B couldn’t resist an old favourite, Chocolate Brownie Sundae. Arriving in a large cocktail glass, it was a glamorous and delicious concoction of creamy ice cream (from neighbouring Scoop), rich moist brownies and sharp sweet raspberries that really struck the holiday vibe.

With an amazing location, great service and the freshest local produce prepared with real skill and plenty of careful thought, you should forget Portofino and head for Milford Haven.

Martha’s Vineyard, Milford Haven Marina www.marthasvineyard.co.uk

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Hold the front page

Hive’s honey drinks create a buzz

A delicious combination of natural ingredients, ethical beekeeping and bold flavour pairings, Hive Mind’s beverages are worthy of the current buzz that this is THE taste of the scorching summer of 2026. This Monmouthshire-based company are re-inventing honey-based drinks for a new generation.

And the word is obviously getting around. Hive Mind’s Honeyade can now boast a string of impressive stockists – National Trust Gift Shops, Panzers Deli, of London, the Globe Theatre, Broadway Deli in the Cotswolds and Gloucester Services are all offering a selection of Hive Mind’s sparkling meads and their alcohol-free Honeyades.

The meads include flavours such as Pure Honey, Honey & Elderflorwer, Honey & Rhubarb, and Honey & Ginger – all lightly sparkling, perfect for enjoying a summer’s evening in the garden and weighing in at a gentle 3.4 per cent ABC which makes them an ideal warm weather tipple without being too macho.

Hive Mind’s ingredients – centred on a unique blend of honey and botanicals – make their drinks taste genuinely different. What better way to enjoy them icecold from the fridge, straight from the can or poured over ice in a tall glass?

And the Monmouthshire-based company’s Honeyades – light, fizzy and naturally sweet with an aftertaste not too cloying – are the perfect alcohol-free option for roasting hot afternoons. Make no mistake, when it comes to summer drinks Hive Mind’s products are Wimbledon in a glass! Game, set and match.

www.hivemindmead.com

Radnor Hills co-star with Disney

Soft drinks manufacturer Radnor Hills are continuing their collaboration with The Walt Disney Company and Pixar for the upcoming blockbuster summer release of Toy Story 5.

Specially branded 200ml Tetra Paks of Radnor Fruits feature new and iconic character designs from the film series including Woody, Buzz Lightyear and Jessie and in flavours which include Apple, Forest Fruits and Orange.

The new on-pack promotion rolled out across the UK, ahead of the film’s release, with listings online and instore across the UK in Morrisons, as well as in Ocado and a number of Co-op Societies. The range is being supported with advertising, sampling and a TikTok live event with giveaways.

The Radnor Fruits Disney Toy Story 5 range is packaged in lunch box-ready Tetra Pak cartons, made with a pull tab technology which means children can drink straight from the pack.

Chris Butler, Marketing Manager of Radnor Hills, said: “We’re thrilled to be continuing this exciting collaboration with the launch of Disney Toy Story 5 cartons of Radnor Fruits ahead of the film’s launch.

“There is a clear appetite from parents in grocery for character-inspired drinks that are ideally suited to the kids’ category.”

www.radnorhills.co.uk

St Fagans Food Festival goes back to the future

St Fagans Food Festival will return on September 12-13 with an exciting line-up of food stalls, live music, and fun for all ages.

Set in the historic grounds of St Fagans National Museum of History, the festival features over seventy food, drink and craft stalls. From scrumptious street food to cakes, cheese and preserves, there’ll be plenty of delicious food to choose from. Vendors include Bao Selecta, Fire and Flank, Ice Green, Pettigrew Bakery, plus many more.

There will be a host of activities, from cookery demos to circus skills, in various locations across the museum. Visitors can take a step back in time at some of the museum’s most iconic buildings as they discover what shopping was like in the 1920s or try their hand at butter making. The National Vegetable Society Welsh Branch will be hosting their National Championship as part of the festival.

museum.wales/whatson/food-festival

Castle Dairies mark 60 years of being butter than the rest

Castle Dairies are celebrating 60 years of buttermaking with a new on-pack promotion, running until November 15. The giveaway offers shoppers the chance to win a luxury two-night stay at Llanerch Vineyard Hotel, near Caerphilly, as well as a range of additional prizes including branded butter dishes and butter knives.

To enter, shoppers can simply scan the QR code featured on the products stamped with the special 60th anniversary rosette, which can be found in major retailers across England and Wales.

Nigel Lloyd, Managing Director at Castle Dairies, said: “As a third-generation family-owned business, we are incredibly proud to celebrate this milestone with both our team and our customers. This campaign highlights our heritage, quality and commitment to delicious Welsh butter.

“At Castle Dairies, we believe that quality comes from taking the time to do things properly. Our 60th anniversary is a celebration of the six decades of craftsmanship and dedication from our team, as well as the trust that our customers have placed in us over the years.

“As we look ahead, we’re committed to continuing to invest in our products, our people, and our partnerships, while upholding our core values.” Castle Dairies will be growing its customer reach with two new national listings in large Tesco stores which reflects the brand’s great success in Tesco Welsh Stores and offers another chance for shoppers to buy the much-loved Welsh brand in English Stores.

castledairies.co.uk

Wrexham Lager goes on the road

Wrexham Lager is pouring at the annual Royal Welsh Show on draught (July 20-23) in Builth Wells at the following six bars: The VP and Directors Bar, Pori, Charolais, Members Bar, Main Ring, and the Sheep Centre.

It is also the only lager pouring at the annual Green Man Festival (August 20-23) at the historic Glanusk Estate, near the small market town of Crickhowell, nestling in the Brecon Beacons National Park, in Powys.

Wrexham Lager will also be available at the 2026 National Eisteddfod at Llantwd, just outside Cardigan in north Pembrokeshire, celebrating the 850th anniversary of the very first recorded Eisteddfod in 1176, featuring over 1,000 events, live music, arts, and competitions celebrating Welsh language and culture.

www.wrexhamlager.com

Brewing up a storm among Tesco shoppers

Welsh Brew is delighted to announce the launch of its new Luxury Drinking Chocolate and Instant Coffee ranges in Tesco stores across Wales, marking another significant milestone in the continued growth of the much-loved Welsh brand.

Best known for its iconic Welsh Brew Tea, the familyowned business has become a staple in homes across Wales, building a loyal customer base through its commitment to quality, authenticity, and products that are blended specifically to suit Welsh water.

The brand’s continued success has been driven by strong consumer demand and a growing appetite for high-quality Welsh food and drink products. Building on this success, Welsh Brew has expanded its portfolio

to offer customers the same quality and great taste they have come to expect from the brand.

The new Luxury Drinking Chocolate delivers a rich, indulgent drinking experience, while the Instant Coffee range has been carefully developed to provide a smooth, full-flavoured cup for everyday enjoyment.

www.welshbrewtea.co.uk

Fancy taking a trip to Abergavenny?

Abergavenny Food Festival returns on September 19-20 celebrating its 28th year as Wales’ leading food festival with more than 80 events, 120 producers, 16 venues and a programme packed with food, farming, ideas and community.

Set in the market town known as the gateway to Wales, it brings together the full breadth of the food world –makers, growers, chefs, authors, campaigners, farmers, producers and curious eaters – for a weekend unlike any other.

What began in 1999 as a gathering of just 39 producers has grown into one of the UK’s most respected food festivals, welcoming more than 18,000 visitors each year and generating an estimated £2 million for the local economy over a single weekend.

Today, more than 80 per cent of traders are based in Wales or within two hours of Abergavenny, reflecting the festival’s long-standing commitment to local food, sustainable farming and Welsh and borders food culture.

More than three hundred local people are also employed during the festival weekend with this year’s programme unfolding across 11 venues in the heart of Abergavenny.

“Food is the starting point,” says Festival Marketing & Communications Manager Meg Griffiths. “What we actually create is a weekend of conversations, discoveries and connections.”

www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com

On the Waterfront…

This year’s Milford Waterfront Weekender takes place at Mackerel Quay, Milford Haven, in partnership with Coast Event Partners from Friday, August 14 until Sunday, August 16.

With free entry and a lively atmosphere, it is the perfect way to spend a summer weekend.

Enjoy a vibrant mix of street food from Pembrokeshire and south west Wales, live music and entertainment. Why not make a night of it and enjoy the waterside surroundings for a little longer?

The four star Tŷ Milford Waterfront offers 100 bedrooms, as well as four unique Floatel Cabins nestled among the boats moored at Milford Marina. Guests can also enjoy a bar and restaurant, a private dining area and an activity suite within the hotel.

Confirmed traders include Get Loaded – a local, female-led street food business – Romy’s – bringing a little taste of France to the Weekender and perennial Pembrokeshire favourite The Cheesy Cow, whilst The Pembrokeshire Cheesecake Co, Plumstone Welshcakes and 5th Flock number among an array of market stalls.

www.milfordwaterfront.co.uk

Much-loved London venue brings best of Wales under one roof

For almost nine decades, the London Welsh Centre has been the home of Welsh culture, language and community in the heart of London. Ever since 1937 the Gray’s Inn Road headquarters established by the Young Wales Association has been the focal point of promoting the Welsh language, literature, music, art and culture.

Today the London Welsh Centre is a registered charity and one of London’s most vibrant cultural venues teaching Welsh language classes, hosting concerts, choirs, community groups and organisations and celebrating Welsh food, drink, music, literature, history and creativity – and next year celebrates its 90th anniversary.

The much-loved Welsh Autumn Market which returns on Saturday, October 10 promises to be one of the biggest and best yet. Over the years, the market has grown from a popular community event into a true celebration of Welsh culture, creativity, food, and friendship.

Every year it just keeps getting better with more traders, more visitors and even more brilliant atmosphere with the centre positively alive from top to bottom. So once again this autumn the halls will be packed with talented makers, producers, artists, crafters and food – all bringing the best of Wales under one roof.

So, whether you’re after unique gifts, tasty treats, handcrafted treasures or just a lovely day out, there will be something for everyone – and probably a Welsh cake or two calling your name!

www.londonwelsh.org

New cheese company is on a roll

They may be the new kids on the block, but Usk Valley Cheese Company, a new family-run cheesemaker based in a micro-dairy in Cwmbran, have hit the ground running judging by their growing list of stockists – Pugh’s Food Hall (Abergavenny, Rogerstone, Radyr and Wenvoe), Four Seasons Farmshop, Saundersfoot, the Derwen Farmshop, Cashells of Crickhowell and The Cheese Shop, Nantwich, being among their latest champions.

The company craft award-winning cheeses celebrated for their quality and craftsmanship while at the same time seeking to ‘reconnect people with authentic, local, artisanal cheeses, rich in flavour and steeped in heritage’.

Using milk sourced from trusted regional dairy farmers, every wheel reflects the very best of the Usk Valley and the Cwmbran outfit won the support of Pugh’s after attending their food fair and enjoying ‘a really positive response from the public’ who sampled their range.

uskvalleycheese.com

New campaign launched: ‘Naturally Local. Look for the Logo’

Customers across Wales this summer will see a new campaign encouraging them to choose branded PGI Welsh Lamb and PGI Welsh Beef by looking for the distinctive brand logos when shopping.

The year-round campaign will showcase the quality, provenance and credentials of Welsh red meat through television, print and digital advertising. The activity aims to keep Welsh Lamb and Welsh Beef front of mind with consumers throughout the year.

Both Welsh Lamb and Welsh Beef have been brought together under a single campaign platform: ‘Naturally Local. Look for the Logo.’ The campaign highlights the connection between Welsh farming, local food production and the security given of Welsh provenance associated with PGI-certified products.

The campaign encourages shoppers to look for the brand logos as a trusted mark of authenticity, providing assurance that the Welsh Lamb and Welsh Beef they are buying comes from animals born and reared in Wales. By looking for the logo, consumers can make an informed choice that supports local farmers, rural communities and Wales’s world-class food industry.

The campaign, run by the red meat levy-body Hybu Cig Cymru under its new strategic action plan, marks the start of a sustained programme of activity designed to enhance customer awareness and celebrate the provenance of Welsh Lamb and Welsh Beef.

Honouring the past, brewing for the future

Walk down St Mary’s Street in Cardiff and you’re walking through history. It was here, in 1882, that Samuel Arthur Brain first brewed the beer that would go on to define a city. More than 140 years later, Brains is still woven into the fabric of Cardiff and Wales, but rather than resting on its laurels, the brewery is embarking on one of its boldest chapters yet.

This spring and summer, Brains unveils its first complete brand refresh in seven years, the result of a partnership with Cardiff-based design studio Toward. Gone is anything that felt dated or overly corporate; in its place is a new logo, a redesigned website and refreshed packaging that manage to feel both fresh and unmistakably Brains. It’s not just cosmetic, either. Pubs across the UK are seeing real investment too, from bespoke cask handles to premium zinc pump clips, a sign that Brains still believes cask ale deserves pride of place at the bar.

“We wanted to honour the craftsmanship and heritage that have defined us for more than a century, while presenting a bold, modern identity that speaks to

today’s drinkers,” says CEO Nick Payne, and it’s a sentiment that runs through everything the brewery is doing right now.

Perhaps the most exciting development, though, is happening back where it all began. Later this year, Brains teams up with Breaking Brands and Heineken to open The Old Brewery, right on the site where Brains was brewed from 1882 until 1999. Expect archival photography and artefacts sitting alongside motion-tracking sports games inspired by Welsh sporting greats, all wrapped up with sensory beer tastings and Welsh-inspired food. It’s part museum, part pub, part playground.

Add to that a new collaboration with Breaking Brands on Croeso Bar Cardiff at Central Square, and it’s clear Brains is positioning itself as something bigger than a brewery, a genuine ambassador for Welsh culture and hospitality.

What’s striking is how little of this feels like nostalgia for its own sake. Brains isn’t just protecting its past; it’s putting it to work, building something new on foundations that have stood for 140 years.

brainsbrewery.com

Greek Style Welsh Lamb Cutlets

Cooking time – 8 mins

Prep time – 80 mins

Serves 4 Ingredients

• 8 Welsh Lamb cutlets (2 per person)

• Marinade:

• 2 tbsp olive oil

• Juice ½ lemon

• 3 garlic cloves, grated

• 1 tsp dried oregano

• 1 tbsp rosemary sprigs, chopped

• 1 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped

• Seasoning

Method

1. In a small bowl mix together the ingredients for the marinade, pour into a large freezer bag, add the cutlets and ensure they’re all coated in the marinade.

2. Refrigerate for up to an hour.

3. Remove from the fridge 20 minutes prior to cooking.

4. The cutlets can be pan fried for 4 minutes each side or place under a hot grill for the same time.

www.eatwelshlambandbeef.com

Cajun Welsh Beef crispy tacos

Prep time – 5 mins

Cooking time – 8 mins

Serves 2

Ingredients

• 1x 250g Sirloin steak

• 1 tbsp olive oil

• 1 tsp Cajun seasoning

• Sprinkle black pepper

• 1 small red onion, finely chopped

• 2 tomatoes finely chopped

• 6 cm piece cucumber finely cubed

• Small handful coriander, chopped

• 75g strong cheddar cheese, grated

• Handful shredded lettuce

• Small tub reduced fat crème fraiche or soured cream

• Splash hot chilli sauce

• Crispy Taco shells

Method

1. In a small bowl, mix the oil with the cajun spice

2. Place the steak in the mixture and leave for 10 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients

3. Heat the air-fryer for 2 minutes on 200’C

4. Pop the steaks in the basket and cook for 5 minutes, then turn and cook for a further 3 minutes (for Medium Rare). Allow to rest for 5 minutes and sprinkle with seasoning.

5. While the steak is cooking mix together the onion, tomatoes, cucumber and coriander.

6. Mix together the crème fraiche and hot chilli sauce.

7. Place the steak on a chopping board and thinly slice.

8. Load the tacos by putting some lettuce in the bottom, a little of the sauce, then the tomato mixture, cheese and top with the sliced steak and drizzle with the remaining sauce.

www.eatwelshlambandwelshbeef.com

New Potato, Grilled Asparagus, Deep Fried Collier’s Cheddar Cheese with Bacon and Pickled Onion Rings

Prep time – 45 mins

Cook time – 25 mins

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 250g Collier’s Cheddar Cheese cut into 2cm squares

• 12 Spears of asparagus peeled and blanched

• 8 Slices of good dry cured streaky bacon

• 12 Medium sized new potatoes, cooked and cut in ½

• 1 Small White onion, peeled and sliced horizontally into 5mm slices

• 50g Mixed Seasonal salad leaves

Salad dressing

• 10ml Olive Oil

• Squeeze of lemon juice

For breadcrumbing the cheese squares

• 100g Panko Breadcrumbs

• 100g Flour

• 2 Eggs beaten

To pickle the onion rings

• 250ml White Wine Vinegar

• 250g Caster Sugar

• Bring to the boil, add sliced onion rings, remove from heat and allow to cool

Method

You will need a small deep fat fryer at 180˚C for this recipe

1. Breadcrumb the Collier’s Cheddar squares by passing them through the flour then beaten egg and then finally the breadcrumbs ensuring every time that they are coated completely before going onto the next stage of the breadcrumbing.

2. Heat a cast iron grill pan over a medium to high heat, put a little olive oil on the cooked potatoes and cooked asparagus and place in the grill pan to mark it and reheat them. Place the potatoes cut side

down only. When all are coloured season with a little sea salt and keep to one side.

3. In the same grill pan cook the bacon until well marked. Remove and put to one side.

4. Cook the breadcrumbed cheese squares in the deep fat fryer until golden brown. Remove onto kitchen paper and season with sea salt.

5. Toss each salad individually incorporating grilled potatoes, Bacon, asparagus and mixed salad leaves. Once on the plate, place equal amounts of deep fried cheese squares on each plate and garnish with pickled onion rings

www.collierscheese.com

Classic Victoria Sponge

Ingredients

• 220g Castle Dairies Salted, plus extra for greasing

• 220g caster sugar

• 220g self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting

• 1 tsp vanilla extract

• 2 tsp baking powder

• 4 medium eggs

To serve:

• Raspberry or strawberry jam

• Whipped double cream (250ml)

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 170 degrees

2. Grease two 20cm sandwich tins with butter and line the base with greaseproof paper or baking parchment then dust the sides with a little flour

3. Beat together (by hand or with an electric mixer) the Castle Dairies butter, the caster sugar and vanilla extract into a creamy, light consistency

4. Slowly add and beat in the eggs one at a time until smooth then fold the self raising flour & baking powder in and mix until smooth

5. Divide the mixture out evenly between the tins and bake for 20-30 minutes until they’re risen and are golden brown

6. Cool for 10 minutes and then remove the bases and cool on a rack

7. When the cakes are cold spread the jam and 1/2 the whipped double cream onto one cake then place the other cake layer on top and then top with the rest of the whipped double cream to finish! Enjoy!

www.castledairies.co.uk

Traditional Mead Spritz

Mead is not just for Christmas – try this summer serve using Hive Mind’s Traditional Mead to create a Summer Honey Spritz.

Ingredients

• Ice

• 50ml Hive Mind Traditional Mead

• 50ml Tonic Water

• A slice of lemon or lime

• Rosemary for that extra flourish

Method

1. Prepare the glass: Fill a large wine glass or spritz glass with ice cubes.

2. Pour the mead: Add the mead to the glass.

3. Add the tonic water

4. Squeeze in the lemon or lime

5. Garnish: Garnish with sprig of rosemary

6. Serve: Stir gently and enjoy!

Gourmet Pulled Pork Sandwich

Prep time – 1 hr

Cook time – 6 hrs

Serves 5+

Ingredients

• Pork Shoulder Joint

• 3 tablespoons brown sugar

• ½ teaspoon salt

• 1 Tablespoon smoked Paprika

• 1 teaspoon garlic powder

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1 teaspoon onion powder

• 1 teaspoon mild chilli powder

• ½ teaspoon black pepper

• 2 tablespoons oil

• 350 ml Cola or Cider

• 1 tablespoon tomato puree.

For the BBQ Sauce:

• 200g tomato ketchup

• 50g Dijon mustard

• 100 ml Cola or Cider

• 25g brown sugar

• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce

For the sandwich

• Sliced Sourdough Bread (or bread of your choice)

• Salted Butter

• American Mustard

• Swiss Cheese slices or any cheese of your choice

• Sliced pickles/gherkins

Method

1. Mix all the spices and brown sugar together and rib all over the pork joint. Leave to stand for an hour if possible (if longer cover and place in the fridge).

2. When ready to cook, heat the oil in in a frying pan and fry the meat turning to get a good colour all over the meat.

3. Place in a slowcooker or casserole dish.

4. Mix the puree with the liquid and pour

over the meat. Place a lid on the dish and cook for the times stated: Slow cooker | 1 hour on high and 6 hours on low or overnight on low. Oven |150’C or 130’C Fan, Gas 2 for 6 hours or until meat is tender and flakes off.

5. To make the BBQ Sauce, mix together all the ingredients, place in a saucepan and bring to the boil.

6. Add some of the liquid from the casserole dish and boil up again.

7. You can place the sauce in a sealed container and keep in the fridge for a few days or it can be frozen.

8. Spread one side of each piece of bread with the butter and place on a hot pan or griddle pan until coloured.

9. Spread the toasted sides generously with the mustard.

10. Start assembling your sandwich – cheese slices, plenty of the pulled pork, gherkin slices, BBQ Sauce and top with the mustard spread bread slice

www.porcblasus.cymru

BRIAN JONES FOUNDER
MARTIN JONES

Food & Drink Reviews

Cleddau Brewing – Red and West

Pembrokeshire’s Cleddau Brewing have had a remarkable rise and are already stocked by some of Wales’ biggest supermarkets. Key to this success is a range that includes conventional strength beers, each partnered by a lower-alcohol (usually around 2%) version. Think of them as full fat and half fat, each with almost identical flavour profiles. And key to this tremendous start, is taste. None of them disappoint. We started with the normal strength Red, a lovely copper coloured ale. Pleasant malt and roasted barley with gentle caramel notes on the palate, followed by hints of vanilla and a more toffee-ish finish, all cleaned up by gently bitter hops. I love a traditional red and this was right up there. I then blind-tasted the Lo. And really struggled to taste the difference. After three or four attempts I did work it out, not because the Lo was less good, it just had a very slightly different taste, a touch less malt maybe. But, by George, it was still good.

And now for something completely different, West. Unsurprisingly, it’s inspired by west coast IPA’s. A lovely old gold colour, it is, contrary to recent trends towards ultra-hopping, wonderfully balanced. Yes, it’s not short on hoppy flavour and bitterness but there’s a lovely biscuity barley-ness to it and a hint of citrus. I also enjoyed its mineral profile and effervescence, which made me wonder if it had been ‘Burtonised’, such was its crisp, sparkly finish. As for the Lo, this time, I honestly couldn’t tell the difference!

To our knowledge, this is the first time any brewer, anywhere, has produced a complete range of beers, each with Lo and Hi alcohol expressions. And what’s more, whether you opt for Lo alcohol or Hi, on the basis of these two, they’ll all be utterly convincing as they all taste great. Da iawn Cleddau!

www.cleddaubrewing.co.uk

Mallows Mixers

With years of experience in the drinks business, Andy and Rhys of Mallows Beverages, who are well known for their exciting range of spirits (think chocolate, chilli & sea-salt gin), have turned their innovative eye to mixers. All beautifully presented with individual floral labels, the mixers are created at the family-run firm in Mid-Wales. We sampled four. The Hot One (fiery ginger beer) has a sweet, gingery, deceptively gentle taste that is speedily followed by a fiery kick, that leaves the mouth and throat warm and deliciously tingly. Great alone but adds oomph to a Whisky Ginger. The Exotic One (mediterranean tonic) is gently aromatic with herby notes. On its own its a deliciously, elegant drink, but also beautifully complements a clean, juniper-led gin. The Being Good One (light tonic) is crisp with delicate hints of quinine. While enjoyable alone, it’s the perfect foil for a botanic-heavy gin. The Radiant One (infused with bovine collagen) has robust quinine overtones and a gentle sharpness, and partners well with a variety of gins. The added collagen provides extra protein, meaning you could be supporting healthy skin, hair and nails while at the same time enjoying your tipple. Crafty!

mallowsbeverages.com

Pen y Bryn Honey Confectionary

Carys, owner and founder of Pen y Bryn Apiary, fell in love with beekeeping at the tender age of 12, while helping her uncle with his beehives. Recognised for producing award-winning honeys and honey-jams (which we always enjoy reviewing at TB) we were excited to learn that she has teamed up with other North Walian producers to create unique honey-based confectionery. We tried both the Honey Dark and Honey Milk Dragon Fire Chocolate bars as well as her Luxury Honey Fudge. Packing a proverbial punch, the chocolate was like nothing we’ve tried before. The milk chocolate’s creamy tones are energized with a robust kick of chilli, while the soft honey notes gently round off the whole. Delicious. The dark chocolate has an intense depth (courtesy of 55% cocoa solids) which is cut through with tangy sea-salt and zipped up by the chilli, while the whole experience is wonderfully mellowed by the honey. Certainly not for the faint of heart. The Luxury Honey Fudge, however, is total indulgence. Created alongside master fudge-makers at Llanddwyn, it is a triumph. Sumptuous, creamy and silky fudginess, with those deliciously floral round honey tones. Absolutely gorgeous. We just couldn’t get enough.

www.penybrynhoney.com

Welsh Tapestry Marmalade from Radnor Preserves

Here at TB we are long-time superfans of Powysbased, Radnor Preserves, producers of hand-crafted preserves, marmalades and chutneys. Radnor take only the best quality ingredients and transform them into glorious tasting products that celebrate the best of traditional preserve-making, while often adding their own uniquely, innovative twist. Think, Lime & Laver Marmalade or Blackberry & Cracked Black Pepper Preserve. So, you can imagine how eager we were to try Radnor’s brand-new offering, Welsh Tapestry Marmalade. Named to honour Wales’ textile heritage, it weaves together limes, lemons and ruby red grapefruits with more traditional oranges, creating a delicious tapestry of taste. We spread the ambercoloured, citrus-scented marmalade liberally on lightly buttered sourdough toast, and we loved it. Gently sweet, the higher notes from the lemons and limes make this lighter and zingier than a more traditional marmalade, while the grapefruit brings its own deeply characteristic, almost bitter citrus bass notes. No wonder this is award winning stuff. We couldn’t help but pop another slice into the toaster so that we could go again!

www.radnorpreserves.com

Fungi Foods

There has been a lot of chatter lately about the flavour and health benefits of different mushrooms, so we were keen to see what Wales has to offer. Enter Caernarfonbased purveyors of all things mushroom related, Fungi Foods, established in 2022 to supply sustainably sourced, UK grown produce. As newcomers to the world of dried mushrooms, we were initially a little wary. However, reassuringly the mushrooms all came with step-by-step rehydration instructions, as well as handy recipes and we were soon cooking up a storm!

We made a deliciously creamy risotto with the Umami Risotto kit. The dried fungi delivered deep, earthy notes and an intense savouriness that elevated the dish to a league we have never previously achieved. The next evening, we stir-fried using the Exotic mix. Different mushrooms carried unique flavours and textures, some robustly gamey, others more lightly savoury, with the carefully balanced mix lifting the entirety of the dish. And finally, famed for its cognitive enhancing properties, we tried the Lion’s Mane pieces, sauteed (some with and others without garlic) on toast. With an almost shellfish-like bite and texture, these were altogether more delicately flavoured. The gently sweet, nutty flavour was tasty on its own, but delicious with garlic. We are converts, fully understanding the fun to be had with fungi!

www.fungifoods.co.uk

Hafod Brewery Sunrise

Here at taste.blas we’re rather fond of Mold based, Hafod Brewery’s beers as they have a knack of finding just the right balance between traditional and contemporary. This means every single one of their beers that we’ve tried, whilst not straying too far from exemplary styles of yester-year, manages to gently challenge and intrigue with a subtly different take on its theme.

Take Sunrise. On the face of it, it’s a classic, old-school, session pale ale. At 3.8% it’s not too strong, whilst the hop profile, barley flavours and bitterness don’t set out to assault the senses, it’s wonderfully balanced, with a refreshing, clean bitterness. But the choice of solely citrus hops also lends a lovely mellow grapefruit that slowly emerges as the liquid, and its aroma, develop in the mouth. An approach that brings it bang up to date. Precisely because it’s not a frontal assault, it makes for a great beer for a lazy, sunny day, that can easily be enjoyed all day long if the mood takes.

www.welshbeer.com

Marios Blackcurrant and Cassis Sorbet

It would be remiss of us not to try family-owned Mario’s Blackcurrant and Cassis Sorbet. Why? It won the Golden Fork at the most recent Great Taste Awards, which means it’s reckoned to be the absolute best food product to come out of Wales in the last year. And, of course, we’re having a blisteringly hot start to the summer, so what better way to cool off a little, whilst enjoying something that tastes sublime. The first thing that strikes you is the vibrant colour, a delightful, vivid, summery splash of deep mauve invites you in. This is courtesy of the real blackcurrants (not syrup or flavouring) and is also clearly evident in the explosion of flavour as it hits your tastebuds. Bold, fresh currant tartness, offset by a gentle fruit sweetness, all taken to another level of intensity by the deep, complex, cassis. And it just keeps revealing more levels of flavour and intensity as it melts in the mouth. Added to this is the texture. It’s as close to ice-cream, with its velvety, dense mouthfeel, as any sorbet we’ve tried, and not at all icy (as is too often the case). It just screams luxury, in every sense, while remaining true to what a sorbet should be – refreshing and zingy. Fully deserving of a Golden Fork.

www.mariosicecream.com

www.castellhowellfoods.co.uk

In The Welsh Wind Ceredig

Ceredig is the second in Ceredigion-based In The Welsh Wind’s ‘flight’ of three blended malt whiskies. It’s not a single malt, being blended from single malts from across Wales with their own ‘green malt’ (a first for them and the UK). Made from 100% unkilned barley, grown locally, it is then aged in bourbon and port casks. But don’t fall into thinking blended means

compromised. This little beauty is as stunning as many a single malt.

On the nose, the first impressions were more sherry than port, and touches of candied fruit. The more I focussed, the more I thought I’m getting heather honey, alongside freshly cut wood. On the palate, it’s delicate and refined, with a little patience revealing layers of subtle spice and hints of caramel on top of the sherry and grassy, woody notes. A few drops of water accentuate these and unearth a touch of smokiness, sufficient to wrap your tongue around. The gentle spice notes subside in the finish, to also reveal red wine aromas and mouthfeel.

Ceredig isn’t a brutal assault on the senses. It’s a cultured and classy dram that allows you to take your time hunting out its wonderful nuances. The ‘green malt’ in combination with other fine Welsh malts, alongside top-drawer blending prove that a blend can be remarkable in its own right.

www.inthewelshwind.co.uk

Conwy Brewery Beachcomber

Conwy Brewery have gone from strength to strength in recent years and now have a range that offers beers for every conceivable occasion. For long summer days they have plenty of options from a hoppy Cali IPA to a sharp, refreshing Helles lager. Pitched somewhere in the middle is Beachcomber. It’s a blonde beer that boasts a fuller bodied, more beery taste that most ale drinkers yearn for with gently forward hops and a nice sharp grapefruit-like pick-me-up zing. Conwy’s bottle conditioning lends it a gentle yeast flavour akin to some Belgium Abbey beers. This adds even more interest leaning gently towards lager territory. What’s more, when served chilled, it has a fundamentally light, crisp nature, giving it that invigorating ‘lager’ style that we’re all so desperate for on a hot day.

If you like your ales but want something that’s both interesting with plenty to tickle your tastebuds and refreshing without a hop onslaught, give it a try – you’ll be mighty pleased you did.

www.conwybrewery.co.uk

Coconut Kitchen Sauces and Dressings

We’ve long been fans of Coconut Kitchen’s Thai pastes and sauces – the only shop-bought versions we’ve tried that genuinely match freshly made restaurant flavours. Coconut Kitchen began as a restaurant in Abersoch, twice awarded Wales’ Best Oriental Restaurant, which explains why their pastes are so authentic – made to exacting standards from fresh, genuine ingredients. Since 2018 they’ve focused purely on their retail range, steadily expanding it, and we’ve now tried three of their latest additions.

First up was the Chilli, Garlic and Basil Thai stir-fry sauce, cooked with king prawns and veg. Two things stood out: an unbelievable depth of flavour, thanks to quality ingredients – green peppercorns, chilli, garlic and Thai basil, all toasted before blending –and real skill in the balance, with no single flavour overpowering the others and a lovely chilli kick. It also tastes wonderfully natural, not oversweetened, with none of the synthetic quality found in many similar sauces.

The same principles held for the other two. The Honey, Garlic and Pepper Sauce, used as a marinade for chicken and pork ribs, was sweeter, as you’d expect, but equally natural, blessed with caramelised honey, ginger, garlic and oriental spices that taste great. Finally, the Miso, Sesame and Lime dressing offered wonderful umami depth while staying lighter and fresher, with zesty lime and nutty sesame shining through, perfect for a crunchy salad. Versatile too – it worked brilliantly as a stir-fry sauce and to add substance to ramen broth. Essentials for any kitchen!

www.coconutkitchen.co.uk

Dà Mhìle Absinthe

Dà Mhìle’s is a remarkable story, born from the vision of one man, John Savage-Onstwedder, who had already founded Caws Teifi artisan cheese makers. In the early 1990s, John set out to create a malt whisky to mark the new millennium, and it would be organic, a world first. Fast-forward 30 years and Dà Mhìle is going strong, producing a range of exceptional and imaginative organic spirits onsite that continue the legacy.

I have the good fortune to be trying their 3-star Great Taste winning Absinthe, while, appropriately, watching France play Spain. It’s an organic classic Absinthe, the green variety, steeped in herbs post-distillation for colour and flavour. Neat, despite its smoothness and lack of burn, its strength (67% abv), wormwood bitterness and intense aniseed and fennel make it a bit of a challenge, best savoured in small measures, as you’d expect from a quality absinthe.

The custom is to bring it down to under 40% abv with ice-cold water, then progressively add more to taste. This gives a trademark haze and transforms it, releasing abundant, fragrant aniseed, fennel and herb aromas, and revealing layer after layer of complex flavour: sweet black liquorice, dry grassy herbs and an invigorating bitterness. A spot of sugar, ideally added the traditional way by pouring water slowly over a cube into the absinthe below, softens the bitterness further. It’s an amazing experience.

Don’t discount Absinthe based on past experiences or a dislike of aniseed. Quality breaks boundaries, and this is a different league.

France may have lost, but Dà Mhìle’s Absinthe is a clear winner.

www.damhile.co.uk

The Taste

of Home

Myfanwy Alexander

My late mother was, I regret to say, an inveterate smuggler: her natural free spirit bridled at the constraints of post-War austerity. Her sister lived in Friesland and, despite the view from her kitchen window being ‘simply thronging’ with black-and-white cows, Aunt Margaret had no butter. e Netherlands’ government were determined to rebuild their country by exporting every ounce of butter they produced, leaving nothing but austerity margarine - and pretty grim it was. Imports were also outlawed, leaving my aunt reminiscing over her childhood nursery teas, ngers scorched by holding the toasting fork too close, and endless quantities of butter and honey.

My mother measured our suitcases, less the thickness of grey Army blankets, bought and froze an unfeasibly large quantity of butter, packed it into our lined cases, and we set o as foot passengers on the Hook of Holland ferry. is successful process gave my mother lasting con dence: ‘proper’ bacon for my brother in New England was taken in her stride.

I must say, as the mother of a farmer in New Zealand, I do not approve of this cavalier attitude to biosecurity, but there are times when I am travelling and I do long for the taste of home. It used to be the case that we Brits, particularly those of us who lived in the countryside, experienced new foods on our holidays, and this was part of the joy of the thing. Despite knowing several people with peach trees in their orangeries when I was growing up, I encountered my rst nectarine in a market in the Gironde, and thus began an enduring love for what the braying Englishman standing beside me at the stall called ‘one of those bald peach thingys’. But now, when you can buy Galia melons in Londis, the quality balance has shi ed.

Every nation has its own tastes, breeding traditions and ways of cooking and, of course, these elements fuse together to make a country’s cuisine. Slapping a bit

of beef, lamb or pork on a barbecue isn’t part of their heritage, and that’s why I miss Welsh meat so much when I am abroad. ere is a delicacy in our lamb that doesn’t need twelve hours of cooking, and I look up at the dusty, poplar-punctuated hills above Siena and think to myself: ‘You guys have nailed frescos, but we do fresh meat best.’ Hence my dependency on Maggie’s African Twist, who produce brilliant little tins, ideal for packing in the car on cross-channel jaunts: my own favourite is the Spice Up Grilled Meat blend, which combines fruity depth with warmth.

In the days when Orangina was only available abroad, it was a revelation: our pop at the time was orange only in terms of colour, not avour. But my thirst-quencher of choice, not yet available in every Breton Carrefour, gets stashed in every available space; you can get quite a few under the passenger seat, to be decanted into the fridge on arrival. Heartsease Elder ower Pressé is aromatic, not too sweet and very thirst-quenching. Top tip: if the only mineral water available is too sulphuric for your taste, add a good slug of the pressé and it will no longer spark the ‘it tastes like you licked a volcano’ comments my children were wont to make. (By the way, I was o ered naturally pink elder ower cordial the other day, from an elder tree with pink owerswho knew? Same taste but a delicate rosé colour.)

And look, I know the Italians are the masters of gelato, French patisseries are to die for and the Portuguese have nailed the custard tart (cinnamon, not nutmeg, on them - now that’s what I call a cultural divide), but there is no sweet treat like bara brith, wherever you are. Sliced with one of those ‘baldy peaches’ from the local market, it’s the quickest pudding. Doesn’t melt, doesn’t ake, doesn’t dry out in the heat - a couple of loaves of the excellent Tan-y-Castell Bara Brith are high on my holiday packing list. A er all, bara brith is the world’s greatest fruit loaf and, as my mother always said, truth does not depend on geography.

Collier’s long, deep and powerful taste releases slowly in the mouth and lingers, for you to experience this unique taste to the full. ese are the factors that set Collier’s Powerful Welsh Cheddar apart.

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taste.blas magazine - Aug-October 26, issue 26 by taste.blas_magazine - Issuu