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Swedish Press N Y A
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Slow Fashion in Eco-conscious Sweden
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October 2018 Vol 89:08 $5.95
08 2018
Valet 2018 Slow Fashion Interview with Atlas Copco CEO Treehotel
Slow Fashion in Sweden
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By Lara Andersson
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hat we live in a world of builtto-break goods is a given. From technologies to furniture and clothing, the items we purchase are created en masse, oftentimes with low quality materials and construction to encourage us as consumers to buy them at rock-bottom prices and then conveniently to purchase new ones when they inevitably exhaust their short lifespan. This phenomenon, otherwise referred to as “planned obsolescence,” has allowed businesses to thrive for decades, but it comes at a great cost to the environment, as unsustainable materials, fabrication processes and disposal practices continue to take an irreversible toll on Nature. Sweden, with its stance as an eco-conscious nation and its abundance of successful clothing brands, has a unique opportunity to act as a role model for the fashion industry by demonstrating what sustainable fashion can look like. When it comes to the discussion of sustainability in the fashion industry, authors Jennie Johansson and Johanna Nilsson have created a lexicon for the conscientious consumer. Their book Slow Fashion proposes ways in which individuals can change the fashion industry through a more thoughtful approach to purchasing garments. One of the main expressions that comes up in such a discussion is “circular economy.” Today, we operate under a linear economy production and consumption cycle wherein items are disposed of once they become obsolete. The facts and figures of fast fashion’s current status quo are unsettling. According to the Swedish
Environmental Protection Agency, it takes almost 2700 liters of water and numerous toxic chemicals to produce a single T-shirt. Between 2000 and 2010 the average Swede’s consumption increased by 50 percent, resulting in the statistic that most individuals purchase 13 kilos of clothing and throw eight kilos of clothing in the trash each year. Readers of Slow Fashion can pick up easy-to-follow behavioral changes that could make a lasting impact on the norms of the fashion industry and the state of the environment.
While Jennie and Johanna encourage changes at the individual level, Sweden’s Mistra Future Fashion endeavor is to reconfigure the fashion industry through a series of lectures, collaborations and research initiatives. Hosted by RISE research institutes in Sweden and primarily funded by the Swedish Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research, the Future Fashion project is a “cross-disciplinary research program… [with a] total budget of SEK 110 million… [that] stretches over 8 years, from 2011 to 2019.” The website’s tagline concisely states the program’s goal: “a systemic change in fashion, via closed loops and changed mindsets.” They divide their action plan into four categories. The first plan of action is to develop the aforementioned circular economy, the second is to stimulate a circular supply chain, the third is to inform the consumer, and the fourth is to encourage textile recycling. Small scale changes in each of
these categories can make a difference. Take, for example, a statistic they used in their 2015 Future Fashion Manifesto. “If an average garment stays in use 3 times longer than today,” they write, “its carbon footprint is reduced by 65 percent and its water use by 66 percent.”
By linking themselves with fifteen research partners, including the Stockholm School of Economics and the Swedish School of Textiles, as well as fifty different industry partners such as H&M and Helly Hansen, they ensure they have a broad spectrum of like-minded, highly influential collaborators to make a palpable impact. Companies such as H&M now publicize their ambitions and accomplishments on portions of their webpage which are exclusively focused on their environmental aspirations. By 2030, the H&M Group will use 100 percent recycled or sustainably sourced materials. This is huge, especially when you consider that it will overhaul a great number of beloved Swedish brands such as & Other Stories, COS, Arket, Weekday and Monki.
As I researched the sustainability goals of different Swedish brands, I was particularly impressed by Filippa K’s commitment to the cause. Founded in 1993 by Filippa Knutson, the brand is championed on the Swedish Government’s website for its innovative strategies for ethical consumption. Their lease program is perhaps one of the most unconventional approaches I have encountered so far. “Our collections are available for rent,” they state online, “a great option for keeping your wardrobe curated and updated, enabling you to temporarily own additional pieces instead of stacking up for the sake of it. Renting clothes, like
swapping and upcycling, is a service on the rise.” You can rent any piece from Filippa K’s collections at 20 percent of the retail price for four days at a time, cleaning fee included. Click on the sustainability tab on the brand’s website and you encounter a comprehensive analysis of their goals, including a breakdown of their favorite sustainable fabrics. Like H&M, Filippa K pledges to create entirely sustainable collections by 2030. To help extend the lifespan of their garments, they also introduced a 10-year care plan so that you won’t have to repurchase an item if it needs repair. Other Swedish brands, such as Gothenburg-based Nudie Jeans, have incorporated a similar warranty into their business structure, offering clients free repairs on their jeans for life. “The idea behind the Nudie Jeans Repair Shops is that they are hubs for our jeans to be repaired, resold as second-hand or even donated to the Nudie Jeans recycling program,” the brand writes of their repair program.
Sweden has been hailed for its up and coming gender-neutral clothing companies, and now it seems that it is poised to be one of the first nations to actively and successfully work towards operating its fashion industry within a circular system. Though “fashion has been defined by change and a desire for constant new designs,” the government’s webpage states, companies are striving to “make sure their garments last longer, even though it might mean they make less money on their products in a shortterm perspective.” Swedish brands, both big and small, are realizing the tremendous power they hold in their hands. Between their efforts and our consideration as consumers, we can hope to reach a much smarter fashion industry within a decade.
Photo: Martinkay78
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Putting Sweden on the Map At Home
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‘Just one innovation...’
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Mats Rahmström, CEO & President of Atlas Copco
Atlas Copco is a global industrial group of companies headquartered in Nacka, Sweden. Its global reach spans about 180 countries. In 2017 the company (excluding the Epiroc spin-off) had approximately 34,000 employees worldwide. The group’s products are available in almost all industries, from the manufacturing of flat screens to the automotive industry as well as in hospitals and construction sites. Atlas Copco companies also develop, manufacture and service compressors, vacuum solutions and air treatment systems, construction equipment, power tools and assembly systems. In the following interview, Mats Rahmström offers an insight into the company’s activities and corporate culture.
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Please tell us about your background and your career path within the Atlas Copco group of companies. I have worked with Atlas Copco for 30 years, starting in 1988. I didn’t think initially that I would stay for so long, but I have had the opportunity to constantly take on new roles and challenges in the company. And I must say that I hope that more people in the beginning of their careers will see the possibilities that working for a global company like Atlas Copco can open up. For example, I spent a couple of years in Canada which was a great experience. I have been the CEO & President for the group for almost two years. Is Atlas Copco involved in any activities to protect the global climate or environment? Yes, they are very much integrated in everything we do. We constantly deliver innovative products and services that help our customers save energy. We make sure that we maximize the positive impact while minimizing the negative footprint. One example is our variable speed drive (VSD) compressors. They only run at the required speed, which saves considerable amounts of energy. The average annual savings by VSD and VSD+ oil injected screw compressors sold in 2017 amount to the equivalent of around 600,000 tons of CO2, compared to
using idling compressors. Taking Atlas Copco as a whole, all our manufacturing and transportation emits 400,000 tons of CO2. So just one innovation can have an enormous impact. We also try to use as much renewable energy as possible in our own factories. Today it stands at about 40 percent. Has your company initiated any humanitarian programs? We actively work to improve social conditions in the communities where we operate. Water for All was started by our employees in 1984 and is still run by Atlas Copco staff. Many of us in the company donate money on a monthly basis. Atlas Copco then contributes twice that amount, so every dollar donated becomes three dollars. Last year almost 400,000 people got access to fresh water through 55 different Water for All projects. It is quite amazing what that can lead to in terms of reduced infant mortality, or girls who can go to school instead of walking long distances in unsafe environments to get water. In Canada, the first Water for All project selected was in Pikangikum First Nation community, located 100 kilometers north of the town of Red Lake, Ontario. By June 2017, a total of CAD 25,000 had
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been raised through voluntary donations. I am very proud of the company’s engagement in these projects and what we have achieved. The United States is the company's largest single market, followed by China. How does the current White House protectionist policy affect Atlas Copco? We don’t see a large direct impact. Our setup is agile and there are things we could do, for example sourcing more from other countries. We mostly produce for the local market in both China and the US. I think it is important however to stress that we firmly believe that the world economy benefits from free trade. Looking further afield, in which areas do you feel Sweden contributes the most, globally speaking? I think it is quite impressive that Sweden has been able to produce so many globally successful companies – from Atlas Copco that has been around for 145 years to Ikea and Spotify which have more recently become household names all over the world. So I would say that innovation is an important contribution. It is certainly something we here at Atlas Copco focus a lot on.
‘.... can have an enormous impact.’ How do you think the image of Sweden is evolving internationally, and particularly in North America? I travel a lot all over the world. As a representative of a Swedish company, my experience is that the image of Sweden is positive. We enjoy much recognition for being progressive and innovative, as well as for having a long tradition of high technological competence. How do you think Sweden has achieved the success it has despite being such a small country, population-wise? To a large extent I believe we can thank our educational system for that. Free further education is one important factor that has led to a lot of talent and a skilled workforce being developed. Language skills is another one, since most Swedes begin to learn at least one foreign language at an early age. And speaking of protectionism, free trade has opened up the world, and that has given us opportunities to reach markets outside of our quite small domestic one. We have welcomed competence from other countries, which is important for a small country like Sweden. I also think that Swedes are seen as being pretty straightforward and trustworthy. That makes us easy to do business with. What aspects of Swedish culture and lifestyle are you personally most passionate about promoting? I think that Swedes generally are
very good when it comes to team building and collaboration. I am very interested in sports, and we have quite a few examples of Swedish success in that field as a result of our belief in creating strong teams. This can also be found in the corporate world, and that is something I am very passionate about. Multicultural teams are more creative and achieve more through teamwork than each individual alone. In Sweden we also have a long tradition of women being part of the workforce. That is an important factor for bringing diversity to the workplace and ensures that we have access to the whole talent pool. Your employees receive Swedish Press digitally. What has been the feedback among your non-Swedish employees? Would you recommend a similar distribution of the magazine to other international Swedish companies? This magazine, by being fully dedicated to Swedish issues and stories, brings to light many characteristics and dimensions of Swedish culture. Atlas Copco’s organizational culture has embedded many of those Swedish cultural traits. From my colleagues in the United States and Canada I understand that Swedish Press is a valuable source of information. And, having had the experience of being an expat, I know it can be very nice to keep connected with your home country if you are living or working abroad. Interviewed by Peter Berlin
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