SURFTIME MAGAZINE

In a world where plastic bags are found in the deepest place in the ocean and where ocean levels are rising unchecked, it is good to know that there is only one difference between surfing and statistical environmental science. In the science of it the universe is in control. In surfing, you are. Because Science may provide an understanding of the universal experience, but it is our surfing that provides a universal understanding of our personal experience. Which is why, after 20 stoked years of publishing this magazine, we are even more stoked to tell you that all our environmental efforts are beginning to take hold. Because of surfing. And you. And the fact that we are in control of our oceans. From no straws at restos to no plastic bags at the quickie marts to upriver education and cleaner beaches, the revolution has begun. And the good news is that the next generation is going to run it into the end zone. So our foremost message is one of thanks and a word of encouragement to keep it up. We will win.

Here is a new thought on an old question. Is surfing an art form? Consider this. A surfing discovery is a very irrational act. It is an intuition that turns out to be a reality. So is there a difference between a surfer making a marvelous discovery and an artist creating a marvelous painting? Just ask Dede Suryana, Pete Frieden, Mikala Jones and crew after there triumph in North Java. Our opening story for this big issue that features Indonesian surfing at its absolute wildest and hairiest. We know you will agree that the images are pure art…so is the wave riding of the surfers themselves, which inspires this art…are they participating in an art form? Let us know what you think. Our doors have open to your opinions for 20 years. And will be for 20 more.

This special issue holds so much at 120 oversized pages. We have exclusive behind the scenes coverage of the Corona Bali Protected WSL event. We have an astonishing look at Kelly Slater, photo portfolios from Josh Symon and Trevor Murphy and a feature on Tasmania’s Marti Paradisis

who, despite a mental illness that runs in his family, still finds the courage to charge one of the gnarliest waves in the southern hemisphere. But even at 120 pages this magazine is never enough. Because as surfers we cannot get enough. In our sport, like no other, there is a place that a surfer sees from shore. And it calls him. A moving place. With hollows and walls and crashing water and most of all a secret belonging. A belonging so powerful that nothing can stop us from getting there. From putting ourselves in that moving place. It is a sports goal like no other. That our sport is not so much an act as it is a place.

A place embedded in our hearts and minds forever. And for twenty years of those forever years we have been putting you there.

Because we know that the the ocean can either melt you, or forge you.

So either way, rest assured.

Because we will always be there to stoke the fire.

- Editor -

COVER: Celebrating our 20th anniversary we felt it only appropriate to feature one of Indonesia’s greatest champions on our commemorative cover. Dede Suryana, blazing through an image that illustrates what has always been the mission of Surftime Magazine since its inception. To independently capture the spirit and the surfing of the greatest Indonesian surfers in the greatest waves in the country. To all of you who have been, and are, part of this mission, Surftime Magazine thanks you for your belief in us. And more importantly, the belief in ourselves as a community. Here’s to 20 more years and beyond. Because like this magazine, real love stories have no endings.

Though it can seem as productive as chasing a parked car, she will still give you the heaviest eight seconds of your life. And no one knows her better than Mikala Jones. The man has sacrificed himself, and most of his hearing after blowing out his eardrums here, to more of these monsters than anybody else would care to imagine. Remember this, on this wave, even the most skilled tube hunters become prey species.

The Ujong Kulon National Park of Java, Indonesia is rated as a category II National Park. Which means it could kill you. If not from Krakatoa blowing its stack, then maybe from the Tsunami’s that rake the region in relative anonymity. Or maybe the underwater landslides. Or the earthquakes. Or the crocodiles. Or the leopards. Or maybe from one of the last Javan Tigers whose roars are rumored to still be heard here. The good news is that you won’t face any danger from the rhinoceros. A smaller, docile, Javan species. The last wild ones on earth. There are about forty of them left in the park. Counted a while back after a few rhino poachers were made extinct by an Indonesian Special Forces “training sweep”.

There are a few small islands in the park. The little sisters of Krakatau. One is known as “Princes Island”. And if your game and if you know how to surf on your inside right rail and if you have the balls and the right passport, this is where you will find the double rectified, guaranteed, photographically certified ride of your whole goddamned life. Of course this experience will be more transitory than you have imagined, or could imagine. Because for those seeking more than a six seconds in the most roaring, molten blue lava, pouring right barrels on the planet, the exercise is futile. Because you do not come to this specific wave on this Jurassic island to actually make the wave. In fact, you don’t come here to make anything but a man of yourself.

The wave itself is a hydraulic hammer on an anvil made of live coral. Watched over by rare Silvery Gibbon, Horned Banteng, Javan Lutung, Crab-eating Macaques, Sumatran Dholes, Javan mouse-deer, Smooth-coated otters, over

seventy two species of reptiles and amphibians, mostly poisonous, and over two hundred and forty species of endangered birds. All who stare out unseen from the malarial jungle at man’s folly upon the waves. And above all, it is those mosquito-borne Malarial virus’s that make photographs of the wave from land so rare. Besides, say most photographers, it would just look like bigger, gnarlier Nias anyway. So why risk it?

Of course any mention of this remote island must include a conversation about Krakatau. When it exploded in 1883 the resulting Tsunami wiped out just about everything. The small coastal villages where small groups of fishing families clung to life. Their ragged coastal crops, the entire island for that matter, was buried under two feet of ash. Everybody cleared out after that. Well almost everybody. Because when the first people decided to return to Princes Island, they made a startling discovery. On Mount Raska, the 330 meter tall volcanic intrusion that thrusts up in the interior like an old molar, a worn Hindu statue of Ganesh was found. This statue was dated back to the first century. Unlike any pre-islamic statue found before. It’s small size and markings gave evidence of an ancient island people, very small in size. But no bones or remains of these people were found. However, etchings of Tsunami’s and erupting volcano’s were. By most the hardscrabble villagers of today is a belief that since no remains have been found, that these small people still exist on Prince’s Island. Surviving through the ages. And they are blamed for all manner of mischief and theft and even the surprise pregnancies that occur today. Taking the time to know things like this illustrate that surfing these waters means being a long way from everything you know. And the key to it all is to realize this. To leave your past behind. For a few sacred, futile waves. To leave your past behind and to get in touch with whatever it is that drives you to the edge of the continents.

Cale Grigson, flying the flag for the citizen surfers. Barely sponsored, he works hard and plays harder in the heaviest conditions in the world. After the warped slabs he has survived, a few moments of perfection like this must be as welcome as a summer breeze.

The good ship SIRUS. The magic carpet to your place of dreams or your worst nightmares. The choice is yours. But at least you can make your own decision in relative luxury with the best, and safest, view in the house.

THE BOAT:

It’s the best way to go.

Run by a very earnest man named Joshua Jati Johan. The Sirus is a modified traditional wooden Ujung Kulon fishing boat built in 2018. She has been proven strong, having recently survived the Sunda Strait Tsunami. Joshua claims that on her most surfers find the the best waves they have ever surfed. And he means waves, plural. The Hellzone is not the only secret out on the edge. The island is peppered with world class empty barrels both lefts and rights. Joshua

is very proud of this and proud of his boat. After all, unlike the others that ply the region, his has spring-beds. A good sleep being the difference between a coward and a hero at dawn. He says the chef is a “Magician”. And that his safety equipment is up to snuff. Fifteen years of experience in those waters apparently makes a difference. He calls his journey’s “surf tripping”. An experience of a lifetime and the beginning of lifelong friendships “forged in the fire of the waves”.

Waves that are “waiting to define you as a surfer”. All you need bring is the desire to find that out.

THE PHOTOGRAPHER:

Surfing the Hellzone is as much about a photographer as it is a surfer. Surfing here, which is more like running into a tree trunk, offers a lensmen a photo op of 100% success. While the surfers success rate is a chance in hell. It’s a doggie door to oblivion at best. Especially since the jagged reef, with convex boils swirling around jagged towers of deadly live coral heads, steepens toward the beach like a hillside driveway. You don’t straighten out exactly, because there is no bellying it in.

Perrenial Charger, the great Dede Suryana, a native son of Java. “I always approach any surf with thanks. Before and after. Especially at a place like this. But this area is so beautiful and there is so many other waves around, and our boat was so good, that it is impossible not to pray in thanks for it all”.

Photographer Pete Frieden says “The wide angle water shot may not do justice to just how round and powerful these waves are, but there is just something about the energy of the place that make you want to get as close as you can”. Dede Suryana, getting close. Damn Close.

Clockwise from top left:

Mikala Jones, Dede Suryana, Cale Grigson and Billy Kemper. Survivors. Joshua Jati Johan, owner of the SIRUS boat operation calls these journey’s “surf tripping”and the beginning of lifelong friendships.

Billy Kemper. After a few days, a more relaxed approach is possible. But, like playing with a big cat, you still have to keep an eye out for the claws.

Billy Kemper’s impromptu salute to Dede Suryana, the best surfer Java has ever produced.

You have to carve out in front of the detonation and bail feet and ass first. A game of Russian Roulette that gets more deadly with every round you play. The skin and yes, the flesh left on this reef on any one session is enough to feed the fish for hours. Mikala blew his eardrums out. And that was just on a take-off.

If ever a wave was about charging the gun nest, your looking at it.

Photographer Pete Frieden knows all about it. A veteran

photographer here after four trips, the thought of getting badly hurt here, and surfers do get hurt here, keeps him up at night. It’s a long five hour boat ride back to a wooden dock and then an eight hour medieval drive to the meatball surgeries of Jakarta. Where if you don’t pay first, they leave you in the hallway until you do. Ask Frieden what he thinks it takes to surf this place and he’ll answer.

“Balls of steel, man. I mean, as a photographer, the boat angle is paradise. And the surfers are stoked because the

shots are hard to believe. But it is just this giant, heaving glorified close-out. But still, that rush, those moments inside…there is nothing like it in the world. Not in the entire world. It’s a life and death wave, for sure, but take Billy Kemper, he couldn’t believe he was actually surfing a wave so perfectly photogenic all alone. He had never experienced anything like it. One day, for about an hour, something weird happened and the wave just lined up and if you really cooked, you could actually kick out, which is a wild luxury in this place. It blew Billy’s mind.

It’s that weird stuff that happens out here that makes you believe in the black magic they have on land. Like the time Mikala was here and a giant cloud of killer bees came out of f*cking nowhere and landed on the boat. They had to cut anchor and gun it for the horizon or die. It’s just that kind of place. And you need to be willing to hell charge this whole experience. I have seen other boats sit out there and watch all day with no takers.

It’s not for everybody. I mean, there are tons of other, lesser, easier, perfect waves around. Empty too. But the Hellzone? I don’t know, bring a helmet?”

THE POINT OF IT ALL

Which brings us to an important point about surfing. Surf travel in the modern age has been made so easy. And

yet, what other sport treads so close to the mystery’s of nature and the ages? Perhaps there is a much more profound element of surf travel that we have yet to consider.

One that answers the great question. That the great mystery of human existence lies not in the matter of staying alive.

But in finding something to live for.

You have to marvel at the fact that Mikala Jones can negotiate Java’s heaviest barrels while self-filming the whole experience with cutting edge equipment. You would think a wave of this immensity would be distraction enough. Here Mikala ditches the filming, trading it for a get-me-the-hell-out-of-here- line.

Dede: “Most the time you have no idea how fast you are going until you try and get out”.

From the modern comforts aboard the SIRUS, you can witness all the power and the glory of the complete Java experience. Dede, safe in his cabin, trying to find the words to describe it all.

Thank you for the years of stylish committed surfing. Your surfing has always represented the finest in Balinese performance year after year. We are so glad that you still look fresh and invigorated and we are looking forward to our many years together to come.

Dear Rio Waida,

It would be hard to express how proud we are of you for your latest performance at the Corona Bali protected Championship. To have defeated Gabriel Medina, a two time and our current world champion, was an achievement that signals your intent to be a International world class surfer from Indonesia. Thank for this. We cannot think of a better surfer to represent our proud country. We will be with you on every wave.

Dear Made Winada Adi Putra,

Two words. Padang Padang. You are still the master. The way you surf that wave is so bold and so classy and so undeniable. We can’t wait for you to show the kids what’s happening out there this year in the Rip Curl Cup. Stay strong for us, we need our tribal elders now more than ever.

Dear Muklis,

Our northern Brother. Thank you for holding down the fort up there. And thank you for protecting what is a very different, very pristine Bali. We love that you probably know more secret spots than anyone else on the island. And we love that you keep it that way. Keep bringing it. We need your northern alliance.

by

Dear Varun Tandjung,

You are your own man now. And we just wanted you to know that we know it too. Your surfing is truly coming of age and we can’t wait to see where it goes in the future. Sure, you have alot of legacy on your shoulders, but that is not what defines you anymore. Your talent does. Keep it up. Stay stoked. And smile man, smile. With a Mom like yours, you will never want for love. You got it made.

Dear Ben Benson,

We still remember you as the hot skater kid. With the Slater moves in the Globe bowl. And as the little kid that took on giant Desert Point and lived to tell the tale. Now, as a young man, you have taken that style to the seven seas. Wherever you travel your positivity radiates like the sun. You are our Bali ambassador worthy of praise. See you in the line-up, mate, your impossible to miss.

Dear Putu Arya

Gunata,

Where would we be without your smile? Your stoke? You make every wave you ride look like a celebration. And we are right there with you, brother. Simply put, thanks, Corok, for just being you.

At Peace: Marti Paradisis finds his way back to Van Deimen’s land

Words by Jed Smith • Photography by Andrew Chisolm

One of the first faces you see after disembarking your flight at Hobart Airport is Marti Paradisis manning the counter at the airport’s Budget Car Rental desk. That a man responsible for a few of the most heroic feats in recent surfing history could spend the peak of his powers at a desk at an airport might seem a cruel injustice. But not to Marti. Actually, it’s allowed him to rediscover the joy of surfing without having to do it for sponsor’s money. “Once the money died, I embraced the changes”says Marti, who battled severe anxiety for years. “I felt this huge release. I believe it was a blessing”. Now he could get back to surfing the wave he loved. A monster slab called Shipsterns. But the journey back wasn’t easy.

“At first any time it broke we were all there as a pack pushing each other. We did that for for decade with no one around. All we wanted was a hell time,” he says.

Raised an hour from the coast, Marti got his taste for giant barrels bodyboarding until he was 13 years old. But then, daring ocean adventures are something of a Paradisis family tradition. Marti’s Dad survived a life of poverty in the Greek islands freediving for family food. Later his Dad would become a smuggler on an international cargo vessels. After nearly being stabbed to death, he jumped ship in Port Lincoln, South Australia, before making his way to Melbourne, then Hobart, then Clifton Beach, Tasmania where a surfing movement was under way. And marti was lucky enough to be mentored by the hell men, one who

went on to become a war correspondent covering the Syrian war.

“When you’re young it feels like you’re just living the dream. We’re having a hell time, and it’s never gonna end!” Marti says.

Marti was 16 when he bagged a smalltime deal with Volcom. “They treated me like family. They were all crazy punks that were all on our own unique journey”. And marti’s was becoming a Shepherd of Shipsterns. “Every spot needs locals. They are the ones that truly respect the place.

The ones that keep order. The ones that will pick up the shit others leave behind,” he says, “I guess it’s hard for travelling surfers to grasp how special we treat Shipsterns”.

With the introduction of jet skis in the mid 2000s the game changed. High profile pros were flying in for swells and bagging some of the biggest pits ever ridden while Marti and his mates could only watch. They needed a jet ski but that wouldn’t be easy with Marti making a living off unemployment checks. He and his mates eventually cobbled together enough for a beaten up old ski but it only lasted 6 months and was dead before Marti even got a chance to use it. Marti took out a loan for the next one. It quickly paid for itself as he rode pit after mind-boggling pit at Shipsterns and Pedra Branca, a terrifying open ocean bommie 60 kilometres off the island’s southern coast. “It went from all these years of the only shots you’d see in the mags were of the pros, then all of a sudden all the locals were getting the bombs and getting the shots,” he says.

Marti Paradisis, Tasmania. “Raised an hour from the coast, Marti got his taste for giant barrels bodyboarding until he was 13 years old. But then, daring ocean adventures are something of a Paradisis family tradition”.

With the extra attention, came extra money and extra pressure. And Marti became more stressed, anxious and ultimately miserable than he’d ever been.

“I was always out surfing thinking kook. That everyone else is going to think I’m a kook.I started to get anxious when I paddled out into the water instead of just going out to enjoy it.

Marti’s family had a history of mental illness, particularly on his mother’s side. When Marti was a kid, she would often lapse into manic bouts of suicidal anxiety and depression. With an uncompassionate health system, it led to prescription substance abuse for his Mom.

“The thing is, most doctors don’t give a shit, Says Marti, “They prescribe drug after drug to people. Next thing ya’ know, they’re addicted. The pharmaceutical industry is the biggest drug dealer in the world, made legal by corrupt government worldwide”.

His sister, meanwhile, was in the throes of heroin addiction. Marti moved to nearby Victoria Australia to get her off it.

“It was an eye opener to how f*cked up the mental health system is. Unless you’re rich and can pay for private rehabs, it’s a very long hard road,” he says.

As a result Marti saw himself as the “healer in the family”. But that came at a cost.

“Because so much bad shit had happened in my life I was just that paranoid about when the next lot of bad shit was gonna come through”. When combined with getting paid to take off on the biggest, scariest waves possible and a torturous relationship with a girlfriend, it created a debilitating cocktail of fear, anxiety and ultimately depression.

It all came to a head on the biggest swell that Shipsterns had ever seen. May 2011 .It should have been Marti’s time to shine. Instead he could barely stand up.

“It was the biggest Shippies I’d ever surfed and all I could think of was all the negative shit in my life, Like, ‘if I drown today I don’t think my family will get through it.’ That’s all I could think about that whole f*cken day,” he says. Marti had hit rock bottom. Anxiety and depression threatened to overwhelm him. Something drastic needed to change.

“One of the first faces you see after disembarking your flight at Hobart Airport is Marti Paradisis manning the counter at the airport’s Budget Car Rental desk. That a man responsible for a few of the most heroic feats in recent surfing history could spend the peak of his powers at a desk at an airport might seem a cruel injustice. But not to Marti”.

“At first any time Shipsterns broke we were all there as a pack, pushing each other. We did that for for decade with no one around. All we wanted was a hell time,” he says.

And it did.

The Global Financial Crisis hit, forcing Volcom to offload some of its team, which included Marti. With the money pressure gone, Marti realized something profound. Surfing his prized Shipsterns loomed large and majestic once more in his life.

Marti felt that he was snapped back into a meaningful, simple Life.

“Without any pressure on you to grab he media attention,

the beauty of Shipsterns becomes a metaphor for a relaxed lifestyle. Even just waiting for a set, just sitting out the back and looking around…sometimes I almost fall asleep out there,” he laughs, “ It’s pretty crazy”.

Today Marti continues his work at the airport, is in love with a special lady and, living by example, his family is healing well.

And happier than he has ever been, he charges Shipsterns every time it breaks.

“He took out a loan for the next Jet-ski. It quickly paid for itself as he rode pit after mind-boggling pit at Shipsterns and Pedra Branca, a terrifying open ocean bommie 60 kilometres off the island’s southern coast. “It went from all these years of the only shots you’d see in the mags were of the pros, then all of a sudden all the locals were getting the bombs and getting the shots,” he says.

There is alot more to Kanoa Igarashi than we know. Evidenced by him thanking the audience from the winners podium in Japanese, English and Portuguese. But despite his linguistic skills, it was his sheer enthusiasm that gave him the win.

You can see just about everything you need to see from the beach announcers booth at the Corona Bali Protected event at Keramas. You can see a doctor hovering over a very dry looking Caroline Marks. She is laid out on a small couch back behind the media booth with a small towel covering her chest. The needle of an IV bag full of saline solution is stuck into the inside of her right arm. She looks overheated but she cannot sweat. The first signs of heat exhaustion. Even the yellow jersey cannot keep you safe from an attack of travelers diarrhea. Still a novice traveler, she had over done it with the sun and the local food and she was just dizzy as hell. It would cost her that yellow jersey, paddling out weakened and lackluster. But still game, she promised to take it easy on the Nasi Goreng. She also told Stephanie Gilmore that Steph would have to give the jersey back after the upcoming Margaret River Pro. And you can see that miracle happening.

You can also see Kelly Slater in the competitors area, alone, fiddling with his phone and keeping an eye on the heats. You can see his presence emanating like heat off black asphalt. Kelly is, after all, made of miracles.This guy was on an almighty tear. The way he was surfing, uninjured, unencumbered, on boards that were finally working and physically looking like a 25 year old, there were whispers from those in the know that he could take the whole damn thing. So people were giving him space. Alot of space. Including Felipe Toledo, who would have to face him in an upcoming quarter final. You could see Toledo looked a bit dry mouthed and quiet about that. A whole hell of alot of reputation was hanging in the air. Getting beaten by a 47year old man? Ouch. You can see the crowds below the scaffolding holding their phones up, straining to get some kind of shot of King Kelly. He can make even a plastic chair look like a throne. No crowd was bigger than when Kelly was surfing. He still is the biggest draw. You can remember hearing from Martin Potter that Kelly should retire already. But you can see also that Kelly is still better than 90% of the field. And is still a peer of the top three. Why quit when you have always surfed and won for a living? Why quit when you are still one of the top five best in the world? You can see Kelly calculating this with a fire in his eye you haven’t seen in years.

Top: The freesurfing events never slowed down throughout the entire event. Even the losers got out there the second the last heat horn of the day sounded. Zeke Lau, never looking more fit, was working on his aerial game on every wave. Making sure every one was higher than the last.

Bottom: Rio Waida put up a fair fight, especially when he shocked the world by defeating Gabriel Medina. But he was eventually crushed by a far more powerful surfer in Michel Bourez. It didn’t look like Bourez even knew Rio was in the heat. Still, a good lesson for Rio to learn. Get into the gym and build those legs. It’s all in the spray.

In a show of solidarity against our plastic Oceans, the best in the world joined in a paddle out. Still, the Brazilians Medina, Jadson and Rodriquez couldn’t help but focus on the sets instead.

Kelly couldn’t believe his luck when he heard Felipe Toledo’s board snap during a clutch move. But broken board or no, in perfect conditions, Kelly’s easy win over the young Brazilian phenom was otherworldly.

And you can understand how that might scare some people.

You can see Stephanie Gilmore quietly preparing. Slipping on a blue jersey with seven years worth of World Titles printed on the back. That would have to be intimidating. You can see Lakey Peterson and Sally Fitzgibbons, still in the running, taking a few furtive glances over at the Gold Coast Goddess. From a deep warmup crouch Stephanie stands and, powerful shoulders back, chin up, she reaches her full height. You can see that this too is intimidating. She strides over to Kelly and you can see that she is taller than him. Interesting. You never knew. Kelly and Steph, comfortable with each other, look out at the surf together, speaking quietly. And you can see Sally and Lakey watching that too. Kelly is pointing out to the surf and Stephanie is listening closely. And then they laugh together and share those famous smiles and pat each other on the back. And with the miracle of eighteen World Titles between Kelly and Steph, you can see that they have just scared the hell out of Sally and Lakey.

You can see the judges in the booth right next to you. Those anonymous heroes. Who despite all the whining and armchair derision, are as good at their job as any of the surfers. Probably better. But that they are also the ghosts of the tour. No one knows their names. They eat, sleep, love and party separately. An entirely different tribe. And surfers all, pretty good surfers, when any one of them paddle out into the freesurfs, you can see that it changes the whole dynamic of the line-up. Complain as you will about these guys as a top competitor, but with your salary in their hands, are you gonna drop in on one of these characters? So “The Judges” surf and live in a cocoon on the pro tour. The most important, yet the most unglamorous job around. And you can see that they are smart and professional and that they are good people with good hearts and that the criticisms hurt them and wear them down.

But you also see that they have to take it. Because they too are the best in the world at what they do. And that is the moment when you can see their miracle. That they are never wrong.

You can see Kailani Johnson sitting with her sister Pua. They are radiant and beautiful together under the sponsors umbrellas of the competitors area. You can see that Kailani, the first Indonesian woman to ever surf in a CT event, is wounded. She had two shots at it and was defeated both times. Her surfing looked hog-tied with anxiety. On the live broadcast the world did not see even half her skills. The center ring of the circus just seemed too overwhelming for the young beauty. And she is a stunner, at least the world was able to see that. Of course going up against Steph didn’t help. But you can also see a grit in Kailani’s eyes. That she is not done yet. You heard that the family has moved to Keramas to get her into more powerful surf. And that she is on her way to South Africa for another contest. And you can see miracles in her future. Guaranteed. She will either get strong and break into the pro ranks, or go the Alana Blanchard route. Trading anxiety for glamour. Either way, you can see that the world is going to know who she is.

And as another heat ends and you hand the mic over to the next guest speaker, you can see that, despite all the growing pains and and groaning pains of pro surfing that our world is going to keep spinning. And that our world is not going end. And that we are all doing f*cking great. And that the courage it takes to keep a world tour alive is a miracle. And that it always has been. And as you look out onto the next heat you can see Kanoa Igarashi screaming down the line. But what hits you most is not Kanoa. It’s the wave.

Because you can see that they will always be here too.

Just for us.

And you can sigh a big amen to that.

Quite possibly, Conner Coffin did the best surfing of the entire contest…just not in his heats. The nature of the waves on the east side suited his surfing to a tee. Like the best section at his home break of Rincon, only faster, darker and more powerful. He was making turns like this all day long.

Within sight of USD100,000 dollar prize money being doled out, a farmer toils. Yet in all work there is honor.

With a sharp eye out for private moments, Symon’s camera captures those moments that so often slip between the cracks. As unobtrusive as he is capable, celebrities are relaxed around him. In this moment, Stephanie Gilmore had just heard from home before her final heat. And it was that inspiration that sealed the win.

The twins, Tonjo and Blerong. Portrayed in two moments that say more about their sibling bond than words ever could. Symon’s water polo background and cross fit trainer status allows him total freedom to capture images like this for hours on end.

A master of moving back and including foreground adds an atmospheric element to

photography. He has the knack of taking the most crowded line-ups and making them look empty. Here Corok rips down the line as the field of flowers infuse a blessed silence to the image.

It is the composition of

portraits that separate them from the pack. Here a very pensive

a semi final heat.

By often tripping the shutter on the lower quadrants of the wave rather than in the top corner, Symon is able to capture surf shots that include the sky above. A surfers perspective, his photos make you feel like you are paddling out and about to duck dive. Nyoman Satria, under the azure on a neighbor island.

Kelly Slater, proving that he has nothing to prove to anyone…except himself. Currently 9th in the world ratings, currently in the race for a 12th world title, with a recent semi final finish against a surfer who was not even born yet when Kelly bagged his first world title, Slater’s career has gone past astonishing and into the stratosphere of world sports history.

The halo spray tells the story of Kelly’s precisely applied power. A master of energy transfers from human to board to wave, Slater’s technique is unparalleled. Why would you retire when you are still better than 90% of the surfers on tour? Isn’t that what Kelly does? Surf for a living?

From the Encyclopedia of Surfing by

Matt Warshaw

Kelly Slater is the supernaturally talented pro surfer from Cocoa Beach, Florida; a record-breaking eleven-time world champion (1992, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997,1998, 2005,2006, 2008, 2010, 2011 ) who reinvented virtually every aspect of high-performance surfing. “His competitive statistics numb the brain,” 1977 World champion Shaun Tomson said of Slater, “no sportsman in the world anywhere has for so many years been so far ahead of his peers.”

Slater was born in 1972 and raised in Cocoa Beach, the son of a bait-and-tackle shop owner father, and began surfing at age five. By 11 he was an unstoppable amateur competitor, and in 1984 he won the first of four consecutive United States Surfing Championships titles, two in the Menehune division and two in the boys’ division. At 14, mentored by aerialist pioneer and surfboard manufacturer Matt Kechele, Slater won not only the boys’ division of the Eastern Surfing Festival at Florida’s Canaveral Pier, but the pro division as well—turning down the money to keep his amateur status. Turning pro at 18, Slater won the $100,000 Body Glove Surf Bout contest at Trestles in 1990, and signed a sixfigure contract with beachwear giant Quiksilver. “Believe the hype,” surf journalist Ben Marcus wrote. “He is a certified phenomenon.” Surfer magazine compared him to a young Elvis Presley. Surf journalist Derek Rielly, playing on the newcomer’s deification—but as astounded by his talent as anyone—wrote that seeing Slater surf for the first time was “like being led by the infant Jesus to the promised land.” Slater’s range and repertoire would expand in the years ahead, but at age 18 the basics were already in place. His stance and balance were similar to those of three-time world champion Tom Curren of California. Slater would never match Curren for fluidity, but his legs had more spring, his body was more limber, his approach was more innovative, and he had matchless coordination and reflexes. Wiry but strong (5’9”, 160 pounds), Slater could adjust his line from

After dropping to sixth in the year-end ratings for 1993, Slater came back the following year to win the first of five consecutive championships. In the mid-’90s, Slater’s surfing was in part defined by his protean tuberiding skill; he created the butt-drag stall and the double-arm stall and perfected the no-hands backside tube stance. It was this sublime tuberiding that won him another four Pipeline Masters titles before the decade ended (1994, 1995, 1996, and 1999), as well as the 1995 Quiksilver Pro at Grajagan and the 1995 Billabong Challenge at Jeffreys Bay.

Quiksilver raised his annual salary to a rumored $1 million a year Over the next three years Slater entered a few world tour contests, winning the Pipeline Masters in 1999 and the Gotcha Pro at Teahupoo in 2000. He also competed in big-wave events, finishing runner-up in the 2000 Men Who Ride Mountains event at Mavericks and winning the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay in early 2002.

The arrival in 2002 of Kauai’s Andy Irons reignited Slater’s competitive fire. Irons would be the only worthy rival in Slater’s career. Slater finished 2nd to Irons in 2003, lost to him again in 2004, then finally claimed his seventh world title—just ahead of Irons—in 2005. Then, for good measure, beat Irons again for the 2006 tour championship.

The titles continued to pile up-his 11th title in 2011 came at age 39—and he added a sixth Pipeline Masters trophy in 2008. Every possible pro surfing record, including most wins and most prize money, were now his. In 2010 the U.S. House of Representatives passed a resolution honoring Slater’s competitive achievements.

GQ magazine put him on the cover of a 2011 issue dedicated to the “25 Coolest Athletes of All Time,” a list that included Muhammad Ali, Michael Jordan, and Arnold Palmer. The National Museum of American History at the Smithsonian Museum added one of Slater’s boards to their exhibition space in 2011. On November 17 2010, the city of Cocoa Beach unveiled a 10-foot tall bronze statue of Slater on a popular waterfront promenade; the mayor officially declared the date “Kelly Slater Day.”

Slater won a record eight consecutive Surfer Magazine Readers

By Matt George, Surftime Magazine, Bali, 2019

(A featured excerpt from his upcoming book “In Deep: Life Liberty and the pursuit of surfing”, Langton Press, 2019).

Summer, 1987, The Peoples Republic of China

To call it a delegation was a stretch for me.

But not for the Peoples Republic of China. That’s where I found myself in the spring of 1987 as the only man to have ever carried a surfboard on the Great Wall of China. One old lady had asked through our translator what I was doing walking around with an airplane wing. I had been invited by the Chinese government to lead an effort to introduce surfing to their Country. China’s state run athletic programs, inhumane in their discipline, are designed for global athletic dominance. So I brought some real characters with me. Hawaiian flower Rell Sunn, who was stunning in her gold lame jumpsuit, Willy Morris, a giant in the “Land of the Red Dragon”, Jon Damm, smooth as James Bond and Photographer Warren Bolster, the immensely talented misanthrope. Now mind you, surfing impresario Peter Drouyn, when he was still a man, had visited the year previous. But his sojourn was shrouded in the mystery of what prompted his foggy exit. It might have been from the banquets where he would apparently cue Jimi Hendrix and Greenough tube footage and declare “Comrades! This is what it is like to ride inside a moving sea!”. Delivered in Mandarin, no less. Drouyn having always been thorough in his approaches to life’s challenges and, well, changes. His attempt at becoming China’s first surfing warlord was a hell of an act to follow. Admittedly, my motivations were far less lofty, though just as earnest. Our delegation was given the Junior Chinese Springboard Diving Squad and expected to turn them into Tom Curren within the week. Still, the kids were cool. Like all kids. Loving the freedom of what translated into“surf frolic” on Hainan Island hard against the contested waters of the South China Sea. On the way through the paddy’s to the surf breaks were still overgrown bomb craters left over from the Vietnam War. But the lazy days at the beach were intoxicating to these young Chinese divers. And that seemed like introduction enough of surfing for all of us. Far from the strict discipline of their pool training that one kid described as “agony and sorrow”. With no agony and sorrow, by the time we left, all I was worried about was

how long the boards I gave away would last these poor kids. I ended my feature article in Surfer with this: “So the Father turned and started his walk home with his hand gently on the back of his son’s neck. His son had been in at the beach surfing all week. And all this father could think of as they made their way back through the mud of the rice paddies, was that it was going to take days to get his son’s mind back on the tending of the fields”.

2018, Kuta Beach, Bali, Indonesia

The REnextop Asian Surfing Tour was in town. I was on the lead broadcast and over 5.4 million Chinese were tuned in watching the contest live. Over the five days of competition it was reported that the number swelled to just over 17 million. I wondered what the WSL would think of those numbers. I guessed it must be said that the Chinese seem pretty keen on this surfing thing. The question now is, where is it all leading to? The global dominance in every other aspect on the globe that the Chinese are now maneuvering so deftly for? Will America become a fallen Rome? Australia an oppressed Sparta? Will our Grandchildren speak Chinese and shape their backyard boards with dimensions from the Chinese numeration system?

2019, Hainan Island, Peoples Republic of China

There is only one man to ask.

Our great 1976 World Champion and surfing impresario Peter Townend.

So I got ahold of him and here goes: With the generous financial blessings of the Chinese Government, Peter has been coaching China’s developing international surf team. He got the gig right around the time of the Olympic surfing announcement. He was coaching at a Chinese tidal bore surfing contest. Yes, you heard that right. A tidal bore. Anyway, he soon found himself with officials from Beijing’s Bureau of Water Sports. “They looked at me and said, ‘How do we get good at

this? And I said, ‘Well, first you’ve got to learn how to swim, mate!’” Peter recalls, “There was no point blowing smoke up their ass.”

And so, in pure Aussie fashion, Peter was off and running. Back and forth to Hainan Island to train the Chinese national “squad” on the same beaches Drouyn and I found ourselves on so long ago.

Soon realizing it would take years and years, the Chinese Government, impatient for Olympic Gold, tried to convince some Chinese/American surfers to switch flags. “The government gave me a million dollars to go and find those people”, Said Peter, “But there was one condition: You cannot have dual citizenship. Ever”. That put the kaibash on the thing. Still, Peter did find one surfer who considered the jump. With government backing and free reign to accept enormous Chinese sponsorships, the deal would be worth untold millions.

The surfer eventually backed out.

That is how much the guy dug his family’s hard won American citizenship.

(Any Aussie takers out there willing to trade Dog’s Eyes for Dim Sum?).

Peter bravely admits that China has no chance of qualifying for Tokyo next year. “There’s never been a beach culture in China,” he says, “Surfing is, at its core, about fun. Not the merciless intensity that China trains its other athletes”.

Still, Peter remains hopeful as he eyes the L.A. Olympics in 2028. And here is where wave machines will come into play as more than just kiddie pools for Jackson Dorian. Secretive as always, China is rumored to have installed such a “wave simulation” apparatus on Hainan Island and allegedly has plans for many more. Peter prays that the 2028 Summer Games will be in a pool.

Where the great sport of surfing will become a display of discipline, repetition and consistency.

The three hallmarks of success within the Chinese culture.

What the hell, I thought, it’s worth a try.

Mick Fanning brought home three titles using the same formula.

The Enigma machine was an encryption device that created an unbreakable code in World War Two. The German Army used it to protect all their sensitive messages and secrets. That is until a British fella name of Turing showed up and broke the codes it was creating. This feat is credited with the bringing an end to the great war in Europe. Thinking about it, surfers are code breakers too. We show up in foreign lands and figure out a very complex set of signals and impressions that will lead us to the secrets we want to find out and then ride. And again, thinking about it, surf photographers go even deeper into this code breaking because of the additional technical mastery it takes to capture all this code breaking. Clearly one of the best of these codebreakers is Trevor Murphy. Bringing us his ultra saturated, phantasmic images from New Jersey to the Mentawai and all the waves in between. His latest collection is remarkable in its insight. Wielding his camera like the Enigma Machine, capturing our top secrets and the sublime messages, and then breaking them down so that we may better understand ourselves and the place we call home.

Left: Murphy always takes the time to tell the whole story. Rush hour within the Silabu Bay micro climate. An very ethereal perspective of a very ephemeral moment in surfing’s timeline.

Rightt: As artificial as night surfing and night flash photography can seem, as strange and glaring the images, there is still in them both a curiosity and a evidence of the photographers drive for the unique and the creative. One must remember that in their minds and through their eyes, photographers surf more waves than anyone else on earth.

Left: To take a great surf photo, a photographer must not only capture the personality and the style of the wave, but the personality and the style of the surfer as well. Here Mustofa Jeksen and Murphy both share a moment of mutual creativity. And in doing so, create a timeless moment of surfing exuberance.

Right: What a privilege is must be to be able to capture the sublime beauty of water in motion. Murphy always has an eye out for the sacred.

Moon over Padang, West Sumatra. The jumping off spot for the best shaped, and most photographed, waves in the world. A crossroads unique in all the world captured here so uniquely by Murphy. This city of a million souls is not only just 100 nautical miles from the magic of the Mentawai, but scant kilometers from the most dangerous seismic Tsunami threats in the world. The roiling Sunda megathrust and the Mentawai Backthrust. And so it is that Padang sleeps under this vaporous moon, knowing that it is only the faith in its most western Mosque that forms its first, and last, line of defense.

Strolling slowly towards the

Green eyed lady, ocean lady

Soothing every wave that comes

Green eyed lady, passion's lady

Dressed in love, she lives for life to be

Green eyed lady feels like I never see

Setting sons and lonely lovers free

Green eyed lady, windswept lady

Moves the night, the waves, the sand

Green eyed lady, ocean lady

Child of nature, friend of man

Green eyed lady, passion's lady

Dressed in love, she lives for life to be

Green eyed lady feels like I never see

Setting sons and lonely lovers free

Sitting under a thatched roof palapa on a beach in southern Costa Rica there could be no better place to contemplate the essence of female energy in the waves. The fact that three separate all-women surf schools have filled the lineup of what had previously been a ‘men’s only’ club means that the contrast is sharp and in focus. There is just something different about a female-dominated surf spot, an altered mood that hints at an entirely separate experience, when compared to the typical surfscape where testosterone sets the tempo. A better surfing experience? When considering the spirit of camaraderie associated with any pack of female surfers you certainly can make that argument. But a new surfing experience? Not hardly. When the first Europeans arrived in Polynesia, and more specifically Hawaii, in the 18th century they marveled at not only the spectacle of islanders riding waves purely for fun, but at the sight of both sexes expressing themselves in the surf on equal footing, co-mingling in a manner unimaginable to the dour, sexually-repressed missionaries. In fact much ancient Hawaiian surf lore features compelling female protagonists, fully capable of demonstrating the levels of the skill and devotion normally assigned to men in other athletic endeavors like wrestling, ti-leaf sliding and spear tossing. An indication that there was something about surfing in particular that aligned itself with female energy, a connection that runs deeper than mere application, but borders upon the spiritual. Women, so restricted in selfexpression in a stereotypically male dominated society, found at least one place where they could be exactly who they were, and do exactly what they wanted, at least for the length of a ride to the beach. Satisfied in the knowledge that a woman’s place truly was in the waves. Problem was that this state of play didn’t survive the coming of the Calvinist and Protestant missionaries and the

who, experiencing much resistance, persisted to carve out a niche in the otherwise male-dominated lineups and competitive events. But it wasn’t until 1992, when surf wear giant Quiksilver threw its marketing weight behind a girl’s surfwear brand called Roxy, that female surf power began to flourish again. Steering away from the tried-and-true endorsement-based marketing of male surf heroes, Roxy instead chose to capitalize on the essence of what makes surfing so special to so many people. With the introduction of the “Roxy Girl” came an archetype that galvanized an entire generation of female surfers-to-be: wholesome, funloving beach girls who rode the waves for the sheer joy of

it, perfectly happy to share the experience with their friends (read: they could take or leave the boys), making the bold statement that not only did they have just as much right to a surfing life as the guys, but that theirs looked like way more

While essentially a marketing platform the Roxy Girl phenomenon evolved into an authentic cultural movement, ushering in what could now be considered a Golden Era of women’s surfing. Over the past two decades an entirely new wave of female surfers have landed on virtually every shore, asserting a tone of equality that hasn’t been seen for centuries, really. Women’s surf schools and resorts have popped up everywhere from Biarritz to Bali, women’s professional competition has finally earned equal status prize-money-wise, female-specific surf gear and equipment is now readily available, fostering an inclusive spirit that has long disappeared from the male surfing experience. A decidedly female spirit, that when viewed over a timespan that includes centuries, might articulate a more natural, symbiotic relationship with what has for many of the aforementioned decades been referred to as Mother

Which brings us back to the Costa Rican lineup. Crowded, sure, but with women surfers who seem to be in touch with something essential about the entire act of finding and riding waves. Much more patient than their male counterparts, much more ready to share, to encourage the other’s experience, to validate everyone’s participation. Less aggressive in their approach, less apt to attempt to force their will upon the wave. Seemingly grateful not just for every wave they ride, but for the simple pleasure of being in that remarkable place, doing this remarkable thing, as if they were born to it. And maybe they were, these daughters of the sea.

by

A L L E R Y G A L L E R Y

AGES. ICONS. HISTORY. FUTURE.

Spread: It’s great having Garut Widiarta back in the water, surfing like a teenager, making it look fast, loose and easy. His surfing will always define his generation. It has also clearly influenced the next. But despite the youngsters that nip at his heels, Garut will be looking for another win at the Rip Curl Cup this year. Experience being the winning factor for that event. And that is something you just cannot dream up no matter how old you are. Photography by Liquid Barrel

Top: The Bukit Peninsula, keeping it simple in these days of tear it down and build it up. Critical mass approaches up there.

Spread: Tenshi Ishii, flowing beautifully beneath the Temple of Last Stone. There is always a magic in a good, clean off the lip in good clean water. And that’s the good news. The new generation are environmentalists. They are already taking better care of the place than we ever did. It’s all gonna be theirs soon and they know it. Photography by Liquid Barrel

Top: That’s the thing about exotic surf travel. You never know what’s for dinner. Photography by Matt George

Spread: Funny how beachbreaks around the world seem to produce the hottest surfers. You would think the premiere spots in all those countries, including ours, would be the hotbed of talent. Ketut Agus, flying into the future above the Halfway hippodrome.

Photography by Bils

Top: Having recently moved to Keramas to be nearer to more powerful, competition natured waves, for the Johnson sisters, Pua and Kai, its all about family support. Pua, picking one out of her quiver, while Dad Richard stands by to record it all. In the end, family is all that matters.

Photography by Pete Frieden

COUNTDOWN TO DESTINY: HURLEY/Barton Lynch’s Bali Blast Off Inspires The Good Life

Among the island’s events that promote family integration into the surfing lifestyle, the top of the class has to be Barton Lynches Bali Blast off. Part surf contest, part tribal gathering, this event held in the dream waves of Bingin brings families from far and wide to share in the joys of surfing together. But with a twist. And that would be to fuel the children’s dreams of professional surfing by emulating the same conditions they would encounter out on the road. The most foremost being coached professionally by a former World Champion. And that’s where Barton comes in. Providing personalized professional coaching by day and inspired storytelling and Dreamtime activities by night. An embedded experience whose essence can perhaps be best explained by the young participants themselves. And so, Surftime Magazine chose the four Smith Brothers to bring to light what the real celebration was all about. What follows is excerpts from their assigned essays that say more about this fantastic annual event than any press release ever could.

“My favourite part of the competition was when I caught a really good wave, my perfect wave. I was floating on my board in the clear Bingin ocean when a set came. I started to paddle hard, as my heart was beating because I felt the wave underneath me. Then, I did it, I caught the wave and it was a super nice and long wave. That is the thing about surfing, it teaches you so many things; it teaches me about waiting, having patience, taking my turn, letting others catch waves and making new friends. And it was really cool meeting Barton Lynch”

- Micah Smith, 9 years old

“When I got to Bingin and saw the big waves I was pretty nervous. But then I wasn’t scared anymore because I made so many new friends and we paddled out together. It was so fun to have so many kids the same age as me who could surf too, I just loved it. I loved the part of the competition where when you got out of the water after a heat and everyone said, “good job” to each other. That felt good”.

- Sam Smith, 9 years old

The Hurley Bali Blast Off surf competition at Bingin was amazing because it was not only about surfing, it was also about culture and getting better at the sport and making new friends. I loved learning from the professional surfers who volunteered to coach us. The fourth day of the comp was the most nerve racking because all the parents and locals kept telling me to ‘get ready and good luck’ because of how big the charts said it was going to be. That morning, as I was walking down all the Bingin stairs hearing the waves get louder and louder, I got closer to the beach and suddenly a small crack in a tree allowed me to see the ocean and my heart dropped. The set of the day. “Am I really going out in this?” But I did. And the biggest lesson I learned from this amazing week at that I have what it takes inside me to push through my fears”

- Luke Smith, 11 years old -

“Then all of a sudden a huge wave rolled up and I totally froze. I was scared. But I took a deep breath and managed to catch it. And as I pulled off that wave I raised my hands to the sky in pure joy. As my heat ended, I rode in to see my Mom jumping up and down and I ran up and gave her a hug. All my brothers and friends came all around me and gave me high fives and hugs. I will never forget it. Never.”

- Jake Smith, 13yrs old -

BL’s BALI BLAST OFF 2019 RESULTS

GIRLS 14s BOYS 14s

1st Millie Allport 1st Bronson Meydi

2nd Charlotte Mulley 2nd Winter Vincent

3rd Ketut Tia 3rd Duke Wrencher

4th Zara Winton Ginn 4th Kai Barraclough

5th Airu Nagata 5th Made Pajara Ariyana

6th Kali Gray 6th Isaac Sullivan

7th Serena Boccato

GIRLS 12s BOYS 12s

1st Kayla Tani Martin 1st Teddy Bille

2nd Georgie May Hicks 2nd Western Hirst

3rd Mia Rodrigues 3rd Lucky Haryanto

4th Suri Jabrik 4th Jimmi Hill

5th Gabi Moyle 5th Ned Hart 6th Jesse Siedmiogrodzki

GIRLS 10s

Equal 1st Oli Taylor and Ruby Trew

2nd Lidia Kato

3rd Indie Siedmiogrodzki

4th Anissa Rei Martin

Equal 5th Asia Matthews and Rani Rudita

6th Sea White

7th Asmara Basuki

BOYS 10s

1st Mitchell Peterson

Equal 2nd Dylan Wilcoxen and Natan Eklesia Johanes

Equal 3rd Phillip Duke and Oska Martin

4th Micah Smith

5th Sam Smith

6th Reef Woolley

7th Wayan Jaylen Suadnyana

GIRLS 8s BOYS 8s

1st Pipi Taylor 1st Louis Taylor

2nd Poppy Bille 2nd Teo Martin

3rd Sienna Jones 3rd Sinar Tanjung

4th Ilaria Craven 4th Jamie Vaglio

5th Zoey Matthews 5th Platon Zhavoronkov

6th Clyde Benschop

7th Shia Jabrik

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VISSLA OPENS DOORS AT PADANG PADANG

Billed as a “remedy to corporate surf brands”, Vissla has been quietly growing in leaps and bounds in Bali. Popular from the start with their ultra cool, alternative products they have now created a new groovy concept surf shop within walking distance of Padang Padang. On offer are the Vissla core surf line lead by their Upcycle coconut boardshorts that have to be seen to be believed. An eco-concept that every ocean lover can dig. For the ladies there is the latest fashions from Amuse Society, a little known brand with a big reputation for quality and style. And Vissla’s girl’s core surfing wear is perfectly named as Sister Evolution. You will also find cutting edge surfboards and all the accessories you need for the core surfing lifestyle like Reef sandals and Le Specs shades. The whole thing is set up as a real surf shop. From its wooden floor to its soft tack lighting, a great place to get your surf on has landed in the Bukit. Don’t miss it.

Vissla: Jl. Labuan Sait Pecatu ( Beside Bukit Cafe )

THE NEW EXPLORER II: The Perfect Travel Barrel Board From Luke Studer

First developed for Travis Potter for traveling throughout Indonesia seeking perfect empty barrels, Luke Studer’s new mind machine features a Lopez inspired outline with plenty of forward volume feeding into a spiral vee and a 2+1 fin setup. This is a board that can be depended upon to push the limit of adventure barrels. Traveling to extremely remote tubes demands a refined, realistic quiver and these new barrel dependable designs are just the ticket. Still, the bottom contours allow that big roundhouse cutback when you blast out of the tube and still give you that control, confidence and propulsion you need from late takeoff to rocketing kick out over the shoulder. They are dynamite paddlers too. Mikala Jones’s feedback has refined the design for riding super deep while still maintaining control. A master of riding some of the most remote foam balls in Indonesia, Mikala has suggested the influences of Tri-Plane hulls, asymmetrical tails for specific right or left tubes and all manner of fin setups. You can always find a few of these magic carpets in Mikala’s board bag. On a recent trip to macking Java, Dede Suryana found himself way undergunned. Mikala gave him one of these explorers. Just check the cover of this magazine right now for the results of that session. Easily the most dynamic session of the year, soon Dede, Billy Kemper, Cale Grigson and Mikala were howling into very serious growlers and the Studer explorer II’s were riding deeper, and cleaner, than anyone. There is just something about traveling with the right board that makes you a complete surfer. For those seeking and edge out on the edge the Explorer II is a proven force. Tested and ripped by the two best tube hunters in Indonesia. No city board these, you pull one of these out of your board bag like a samurai sword, signaling your intent to take on any challenge that deep travel surfing can throw at you. It’s simple. If you wanna get real, you gotta have one in your quiver. Find one at: Studersurfboards.com

THE THRUSTER CLUB

Justlike the ski slopes has their ski lodges, so does White Monkey surf shop at Padang Padang have its after surf Cafe and Bar. Located in the shade of the backyard venue of the shop, the Thruster Club is one of Bali’s most popular places to relax after a great session, or to just catch up with friends…and certainly meet new ones. Early morning Coffees, Bullet Coffees, Fresh Juices and Kombucha for those pre-surf sessions and afternoon into evening Cocktails, Beers, Wine and healthy food. There is also a Nalu Bowl Cafe located

in our backyard venue serving delicious Acai and Fruit bowls. The perfect surf food for high energy sessions. There is always something happening in our backyard. Movie premieres, Surf Parties, product launches, live music, surf star autograph signings and more. Our Friday nights are packed with all our global visitors. It is Ladies Night after all, with half off specials for all the girls. We also throw dynamite private parties. Just ask if you are interested and we will make it happen. Find us at thrusterclub.com

PROXIMITY:

WE ARE VERY CLOSE

Photography & Words by Tim Hain, ASC

It’s rewarding to be a part of surfing’s history. Even better when it’s on the island of Bali. Where surfing has been a dependable driver of the tourism industry here since the late 70’s. Seeing Rio Waida and Kailani Johnson paddling out at the WSL’s Corona Bali Protected WCT event was glorious. Especially with the local and international media surge. Kailani was the first Indonesian women to ever compete in a World Championship Tour event.

Indonesian media coverage of surfing, let alone women’s surfing, has been sparse to say the least, despite the best efforts of the ISC and the ASC to spread the news to any and all. So it was very gratifying to see our WhatsApp Indonesia media group chat lighting up. The news of Kailani, the Corona Bali Protected event being great for Bali tourism, the world’s best surfers are in Bali, etc. And the joy when Rio won his heat over 2 time and reigning World Champion Gabriel Medina. National pride at its finest!

And it was different this time. These young surfers were in the event on merit, not just given a wildcard as a courtesy. Rio was the top ranked Indonesian male on the WSL Qualifying Series rankings. Kai was the top ranked female. Which is the solid way that the WSL decided on the Corona Bali Protected wildcards. Rather than to stage a one-day trials to fill the local wildcard spot as they do in some other WCT events.

I’m sure there are those that would have preferred to see a trials event run, but I’ll side with the QS rankings method for this main reason: commitment. Anybody can have a good day in a trials event, but sustained commitment and dedication to traveling and competing, climbing up the points ladder with the goal to reach the top…that is what it takes to be a true Champion.

Looking towards the future of surfing in Indonesia, the Tourism Ministry, specifically the Maritime Department, has been working with the PSOI and the ASC during the last two years towards helping us open up more regions to surfing. Through the growing number of WSL contests around Indonesia, they are seeing not only economic benefits but also nationalist and youth programs and environmental benefits as well. As this progresses, coupled with the availability of new programs like Fetch Surf Concepts, Coach Dris’s Body and Mindset Performance, Bali Elite Surf Coaching and others, I’m confident that it’s won’t be too many years before we see more history being made. We are close. Very close. To the reality of our goal of getting an Indonesian surfer onto the World Championship tour. All we need is the continued commitment of our surfers and our team of believers.

ULU CLIFFHOUSE: ALWAYS A HAPPENING

The UlU Cliff House is the cliff-top oasis that is redefining the Bukit Bali beach club scene. Opening its doors to international acclaim at the end of 2017, Conde Nast Traveller called it “The Coolest Beachclub” and one of the “World’s Most Beautiful Restaurants.” The 45,000 sq ft beach

club’s design embraces the raw and natural beauty of its breathtaking location on the cliffs of Uluwatu and includes a pool, restaurant, and an Ocean deck bar built on the rocks below with direct access to the surf. Since opening, Ulu Cliffhouse has thrown some of the best parties on the

island, with a number of the world’s greatest DJ’s including Grammy-award-winning Nic Fanciulli, Guy Gerber, Hot Since 82, Fatboy Slim and Carl Cox & Eric Powell’s Mobile Disco. So grab your board and grab your dancing shoes and join the cliffside party for the ride of your life.

NINETY ONE BALI :

MODERN CASUAL DINING IN THE HEART OF CANGGU

Anew

dining destination in the ever-growing Batu Bolong Street: Ninety One Bali, will most definitely be our (and everyone’s) favourite casual dining spot in Canggu for plenty of good reasons.

Serving up dishes and drinks inspired by spices of the east, Ninety One add just the right amount of spice to your Bali adventure.

Imagine adding a dash of Middle Eastern twist to your favourite breakfast, lunch, or dinner menu. Like pan-fried barramundi with baba ganoush and olive tapenade, or caramelised peach with lightly charred halloumi. All served family style, designed to be shared and swapped in the middle of the table.

And let’s not forget about the drinks too. Ninety One serves lush cocktails and great wine selections. We love their fresh take on the classic Negroni – the Rosseloni, adding rosella flowers to gin, vermouth and campari mixture.

The space and ambience itself is very cozy and homey, it is a beautifully converted villa with modern contemporary interiors. We have to say, stepping into Ninety One is like stepping into a home: good food, good company and good times guaranteed!

91 Canggu

Address: Jalan Batu Bolong no:91, Canggu Telp 0361 9091065

THE ROYAL PURNAMA: A SURFERS PARADISE

As the unofficial Headquarters of the Corona Bali Protected WSL surfing Championship, the Royal Purnama has distinguished itself as the ultimate destination for any vacationing surfer. With famed surf right out front and Keramas three minutes away, these villas and art suites are perfectly located for a super charged surf trip. Once you settle in to your private space, filled with hanging ivy’s and featuring a private pool and a huge, semi-outdoor shower and bath area, you cannot help but to run down to the beachside pool and swim in the shadows of the beachside obelisk garden. It is here, where you can cool down under the equatorial sun or simply drift and float and consider the cosmos by night. For those of you getting married or honeymooning, this place is made for romance. And you just have to love a place that offers a free breakfast of anything you would like off the main menu. Try the Eggs Benedict served with sourdough and a fresh traditional “Jamu” tonic to jump start your adventure of the day. With a 12 years-of-age and over policy, this resort for grown-ups is perfect for surf groups or just loving couples looking to share the ocean and a peaceful, rejuvenating experience. With a full service spa perfect for after surf traditional massage, or for those not wave hunting, The Royal Purnama is an oasis of serenity. This surfer friendly retreat combines the thrill of surfing with the tranquility of a refined, quiet atmosphere. The famed Balinese hospitality and friendliness is infused into every moment within these garden walls. And as you face the sweeping views of Bali and the waves of the Badung Strait, you can lift your champagne in a toast to living in the moment. Be sure to include The Royal Purnama in your next Bali surf adventure. The waves and your new home away from home await.

Please contact reservations@theroyalpurnama.com

FREE RIP CURL GIVEAWAY!

Surftime,

How do you guys find such great photography? And do you have any tips for a photographer like me that would like to get into it?

Thanks,

Dale Langton, Nusa Dua, Bali Dale,

The fact of the matter is that we find our fantastic photography through an international network of lifelong friends and associates. Plus, every great photographer sooner or later always ends up in Bali. As for tips, get great equipment and take a photography course from Fabian at fromthewoodsproductions.com. Best on the island. And come by and pick up your RIP CURL prize package.

JAVA

Jabodetabek: PT.Gagan Indonesia (Ipanema), PT.Sukses Sinar Abadi (NIXON), PT.Exhibition Network Indonesia, PT. Indonesia AirAsia, PT.Harindotama Mandiri (OP & Redsand), Pola Grade, PT.Coca - Cola Distribution Indonesia, BEAM GLOBAL ASIA PTE LTD, PT. Amerta Indah Otsuka (Pocari Sweat), Point Break Bekasi, Point Break Blok M, Point Break Kelapa Gading, Point Break Serang, Point Break Taman Anggrek,Djournal Cilandak town square, J.co Cilandak town square, Brew&co Cilandak Town Square, Kopiluwak Cilandak Town Square, Tapas movida Cilandak Town Square, Excelco Cilandak Town Square, Starbuck Cilandak Town Square, Hagendaz Cilandak Town Square, My Kopi Cilandak Town Square, Conouseour Cilandak Town Square, Liberica Cilandak Town Square, The Coffe Bean Cilandak Town Square, Malay Village Cilandak Town Square, Mangkok putih Cilandak Town Square, Fish&co Cilandak Town Square, Hatten wines Kemang, Coffe corner Kemang, Largo bistro Kemang, Beergarden Kemang, Moe’s place Kemang, The coffe bean Kemang, Kopi seruput Kemang, Chiken chon Kemang, Esia café Kemang, Anomali café Kemang, Signature café Kemang, Café mondo Kemang, Koi Kemang, VIN + Kemang, JCO Kemang, Casa Kemang, Takigawa Kemang, Starbuck Kemang, Pizza marzano Kemang, Kedai kopi 89 Kemang, Daily bread Pondok Indah Mall 1, Kafe betawi Pondok Indah Mall 1, Regal coffe Pondok Indah Mall 1, The coffe bean Pondok Indah Mall 1, Chopstix Pondok Indah Mall 1, Out Back Pondok Indah Mall 1, Starbuck coffee Pondok Indah Mall 1, J.Co Pondok Indah Mall 1, Teritorri Pondok Indah Mall 1, Fatburger Pondok Indah Mall 1, Soursally Pondok Indah Mall 1, Taichan Pondok Indah Mall 2, Regal coffe Pondok Indah Mall 2, Jitllada Pondok Indah Mall 2, Takigawa Pondok Indah Mall 2, Bakerzin Pondok Indah Mall 2,

Hanei Pondok Indah Mall 2, Din tai fung Pondok Indah Mall 2, Shabu tei Pondok Indah Mall 2, The Café Cartel Pondok Indah Mall 2, Radja Ketjil Pondok Indah Mall 2, Fish & co Pondok Indah Mall 2, Suntiang Pondok Indah Mall 2, Coldstone Pondok Indah Mall 2, Seruput Pondok Indah Mall 2, Opasuki Pondok Indah Mall 2, Sushi tei Pondok Indah Mall 2, Pizza marzano Pondok Indah Mall 2, Dellifrance Pondok Indah Mall 2, Victoria caffe Pondok

Indah Mall 2, The coffe bean Pondok Indah Mall 2, Krispy kreme Pondok Indah Mall 2, Red bean Pondok Indah Mall 1, Hagen daz Pondok Indah Mall 2, Kenny Roger Roasters Pondok Indah Mall 2, Killiney Kopitiam Grand Indonesia, Sushi Tei Grand Indonesia, Kopi Luwak Grand Indonesia, Kenny Roger Roasters Grand Indonesia, Kafe Betawi Grand Indonesia, Fish & co Grand Indonesia, Cali Deli Grand Indonesia, Pizza Marzano Grand Indonesia, Starbuck Coffe Grand Indonesia, Burger King Grand Indonesia, Krispy Kreme Grand Indonesia, The Coffe Bean Grand Indonesia Lt. 1, Hagen Daz Grand Indonesia, Takigawa Grand Indonesia, Djournal Grand Indonesia, Sushi Tei Plaza Indonesia, Starbuck Plaza Indonesia, The Coffee Bean Plaza Indonesia, Segafredo Plaza Indonesia, Shabu-shabu house Plaza Indonesia, Opus café Plaza Indonesia, Chopstix Plaza Indonesia, Kitchenette Plaza Indonesia, Bakerzin Plaza Indonesia, Kopi Luwak Plaza Indonesia, Red tomato Plaza Indonesia, Fatburger Plaza Indonesia, Kafe Betawi Plaza Indonesia, Yakun Kaya Toast Plaza Indonesia, Bistro baron Plaza Indonesia.

Jawa Barat: Point Break Bandung Super Mall, Heaven Skateboard, Asep Kusdinar Pangandaran.

Jawa Timur: Point Break World Tunjungan Plaza II.

Jawa Tengah dan DIY Jogyakarta: Point Break Hartono.

KALIMANTAN

Point Break World Banjarmasin, Point Break Pentacity Mall.

SULAWESI

Point Break World Panakkukang, Point Break Gorontalo, Point Break Palopo, Point Break Tantura Palu.

MALUKU

Point Break Mall Ambon City Centre, Point Break Maluku City Mall, Point Break Ternate.

SUMATERA

Point Break Andalas Padang, Point Break Basko, Point Break Batam Centre, Point Break Palembang Square, Point Break World Palembang Icon, Square extension, Point Break Ciputra Pekan Baru, Point Break Sun Plaza Medan, Substance padang.

NUSA TENGGARA BARAT

Royal Surf Mataram, Senggigi, Billabong Gili Trawangan, Blue Surf Gili Trawangan, Hurley Gili Trawangan, Sumbawa (Pesawat Trans Nusa DPS-Dompu, Lakey), Sempiak Vila Selong Belanak, Lombok.

BALI

Kuta: Alam Kul-Kul Hotel, Back Door, Balcony Rest & Bar, Huffian, Bali Learn To Surf, Billabong Kuta Square, Bliss Wayan Hotel, Blue Groove, Blue Ocean Shop, Blue Panic I, Blue Panic II, Dragon Office, Dragon Shop, Eikon Bar, G-Land, Halfway Surf, Hard Rock Café, Hard Rock Radio, Hot Banana, Hurley Kuta Square, Hurley Poppies Lane II, Indodream, Hurley Factory Outlet Simpang Siur, Naruki, Oddyseys Surfing School, Ovault Legian,

Papaya Surf, Pro Surf School, PT.Billabong Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Beachwalk, Quiksilver Kuta Square, Quiksilver Premium, Ripcurl Bemo Corner, Ripcurl Kuta Square, Rip Curl Memo, Star Surf, Sunkissed, Surfer Girl, Surfer Girl Office, Surfer Girl PODS, The Pit, Toke, Tubes Bar, Volcom Bemo Corner, Volcom Kuta Square, Yayasan GUS, Bali Niksoma Hotel, BSO, Cozy, Hurley Factory Outlet, Istana Rama Hotel, Kuta Seaview Hotel, Luke Studer Shop, Mercure Hotel, Nero Bali, OZ Radio, POP Hotel, PT.Jarosite (Rip Curl), PT.Sinar Sosro, PT. Transnusa Air Services (TransNusa), Ramayana Hotel, Rip Curl OSO, Rip Curl Sunset Road, Rosso Vivo, Ryosi Restaurant, Starbuck Café Pantai, Take Restaurant, The 101 Legian Hotel, The Stones, TJ’s Restaurant, VI AI PI, Hotel Santika, Blue Wave, Trans Nusa.

Tuban: Aston Kuta, Bali Dynasty Hotel, Bamboo Restaurant, Batan Waru Restaurant, Billabong Discovery Mall, Blue Fin, Bubba Gum, Ryoshi, Discovery Hotel, Envy Restaurant, Golden Lotus, Hacienda Restaurant, Holiday Inn Resort, Hurley Discovery Mall, Kuta Lines Discovery Mall, Kuta Paradiso Hotel, Magani Hotel, PT. Volcom Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Discovery Mall, Ramada Bintang Bali, Risata Bali Resort.

Legian: Dahui, All Season Hotel, Camankila Hotel, Cibola, Huck Happy Store, Hurley Legian, Jayakarta Hotel,Legian Beach Hotel, Macaroni Bar Bar & Restautant, Ovault Beachwalk, Poco Loco Bar & Rest, PT.Jaya Bersama (Rip Curl Surf School), PT.Quiksilver Indonesia, Quiksilver Café, Quiksilver Legian, Ripcurl Legian, Ripcurl Melasti, Sky Surf, SWICH Restaurant, Tanaya Bed and Breakfast, The Bokha Hotel, The Granmas Hotel Jl. Legian, Trattoria, Zanzibar Restaurant, Bali Mandira Hotel.

Seminyak, Oberoi, Petitenget: Afends, Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Biku Restaurant, Billabong Bintang, Billabong Seminyak, Canggu Deli, Channel Islands, Cocoon Restaurant, DC Seminyak Square, Deus Oberoi, Deus Petitenget, Drifter Shop, Fave Hotel, Hurley Indonesia, Hurley Oberoi, Insight Seminyak, IZE Hotel, Laca-Laca Restaurant, Lanai Restaurant,

Made’s Warung Seminyak, Mannekepis Restaurant, Meja Kitchen & Bar, Motel Mexicola Restaurant, Oakley Seminyak, Volcom Shop, Petitenget Restaurant, Potato Head, Puravida Seminyak, Quiksilver Bintang, RVCA

Oberoi, Quiksilver Petitenget, Red Carpet, Rip Curl Bintang, Rip Curl Seminyak, Rumors Restaurant, Ryosi Restaurant, Single FIN Seminyak, SOHO Restaurant, Surfer Girl Seminyak Square, Tekor Bali Restaurant, The Grandmas Hotel Dyana Pura, The Haven Hotel, Betelnut Restaurant, Black Canyon Seminyak Square, By The Sea Shop, Chandi Restaurant, Dylon Long Bottom, Eat Well Restaurant, Queens Tandor Restaurant, Taco Casa, Miyura Restaurant, Kinky Tiki Bar.

Nusa Dua: Nusa Dua Beach Grill, PT.Bali Bijaksana (Oakley) Office, Ovault Nusa Dua.

Uluwatu, Jimbaran: Surfer Paradise Kelan, Drifter Office, Hansel Surfboards, Quiksilver Uluwatu, Single Fin Shop, Single Fin Restaurant, Warung Ketty, Warung Lana, White Monkey, Surf Edge/ Uluwatu Café, Noh by Pison, Nusa Surf, Loko Shop. Secret Spot Jimbaran. Sanur, Denpasar: Bali Adventure Tours, Bali Hai Cruise, Batu Jimbar Restaurant, BIMC Hospital, Bir Bintang, Bounty Cruise, Coca-Cola Distribution Bali, CV.Royalindo Pacific (No Fear), G-Xtreme, International SOS, Kopi Bali, Ombak Shop, PT. Planet Selancar Mandiri, Red

Bull, Rip Curl Sanur, Starbuck Café Sanur, Tiket To the Moon, Kios Rama, Bali Scuba, Ocean Gravity (Bali Diving School), Nova Dive Center, All 4 Diving, Billabong, The Stokehouse.

Canggu: Billabong Batu Bolong, Billabong Canggu, Café di Batu Bolong, Café di Echo Beach, Deus Canggu, Hurley Brawa, PT.Deus Ex Machina Indonesia Office, Quiksilver Canggu / Echo Beach, REDZ Surf Boards, Reef Canggu, Seven Shores / 69 Slam, Oldmans Restaurant & Bar, The Lawn. Balianas shop, Canggu Deli, Swich Brawa, Drifter Shop, Brawa Surf Shop, Matcha Cafe Brawa, Nude Cafe Brawa, Onboard Store Batu Bolong, Echo Beach Club Canggu. Secret Spot Brawa, Vissla Jl Batu Mejan, Parachute Tibubeneng, Mahalo.

Gianyar: Bali Zoo, Komune Hotel, Bali Safari & Marine Park, SOBEK

Lembongan : Billabong Lembongan

SINGAPORE

Carkit Agent (Far East ) Pte Ltd.

MALAYSIA

PHILIPPINES

Media Partner ASC (Asian Surfing Championship)

CLOSE OUT

Prophecy 1970-2019

Yes, it they were supposed to blow minds. Both of these images.

The artwork is Rick Griffin’s 1970 masterpiece which was a poster for the seminal surf movie of the time “Pacific Vibrations”. A film that explored the themes of the hallucinogenic movements of the era. A time when imagination ruled surfing. Where “Futuristic” boards and designs reigned our earth. A time that inspired everything from open minds to blown minds, of space boards and being spaced out. A wildly productive time that hurdled the evolution of surfing into the collective conscious stratosphere. An influence that still resonates today. An influence that has led to the unimaginable, no matter how many drugs were taken back then. Foil surfing. Surfing above the waves, flying really, perhaps to achieve the purest connection a surfer has ever had with a wave’s kinetic powers. Jimi Hendrix dreamed of it with his “Axis Bold as love”. Connecting his guitar into the energy that leads to the center of the earth. Billy Kemper, right, is living it with his axes that propel him into an otherworldly realm that is certainly as bold as any love coming from the center of our oceans.

Still relevant, Griffin’s poster serves as an inspiration to anyone who is willing to see just how far their mind can go in surfing. After all, filmaker John Severson’s original idea was to “bring an awareness to the changes I was witnessing happen to the ocean…This is a film that in the end makes a statement that would maybe prompt a few people to take action and start doing something” Prompt people to take action and start doing something. We have been doing it ever since”. Indeed.

by Trevor Murphy