PASSION COMES IN WAVES
RIP CURL CUP 2026 MENTAWAI
SRI LANKA
TAHITI
CORNWALL
OUTSIDE CORNER SURF SHOP
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SURFTIME INSPIRATION # 141
My God, what have we done? Photo Mg.
Human Nature, Self-Destruction and Collective Responsibility Thinkers have long reflected on humanity’s struggle against itself, knowing that our conflict with nature is a war against ourselves. Forget about saving the world, it has always been able to do that itself. It just needs a break from us humans. And the way things are going, it’s going to get it. These reflections emphasize that environmental destruction mirrors our pitiful internal human condition. That avarice and vicious economics alone will destroy our chance to save ourselves. And that the ultimate danger in today’s internet-obsessed, self-serving world is the assumption that someone else will intervene. Nature doesn’t need us…we do.
COVER: Does the fact that both divisions of the Rip Curl Cup has been won two years in a row by 16 year old’s mean that Gen Z is on the move? Or has the Cup become the greatest Junior’s competition on earth? Either way, 2026 Champion Rajo Barrel, and his astonishing tuberiding skills, are right in the pocket of both revelations. Photography by Nathan Lawrence
Photography by Nathan Lawrence • Words by Tommy Milin
In what is usually a battle of wits between veteran tuberiders, this year the Rip Curl Cup seemed more like a graduation ceremony for Gen Z. And with both an audacity and a mischievousness rarely seen in these waters, 2026 Champion Rajo Barrel’s hard-driving approach proved that it will always be youthful dreams that keep this world spinning around.
When the morning offshores started to finally howl, Varun Tanjung turned in a wildly gutsy performance. With only four guys in the water, everybody wins at the Rip Curl Cup.
Padang Padang Bridge, Bali, Indonesia, 27/08/2026, 7:05am Knowing that the Rip Curl Padang Padang Cup is on is a force that draws you out of bed. You feel like a kid on Christmas morning. After all, this day, if the swell abides, comes only once a year. For competitors, the gift they are given is an empty line-up at Bali’s best barrel. And for you, it’s a show unlike any other. Padang Padang Cliffside, 9:15am Making your way through the acacia trees that form a dry, thorny tunnel leading to the judging and broadcast compound, you hear the waves before you see them. Each barrel unloading onto the reef drowns out the new sounds of the modern Bali that you have left behind today. The buses, the motorbikes, the groaning cement trucks, the pounding beach clubs, and the ever-present screeching of the rampant construction that is scarring this landscape forever. And in this moment you are reminded of what you came to Bali for. The shared elation of it all, the smiles, the waves and the Cup, despite the changes all around you here.
Padang Padang Cliffside, 9:20am You arrive at the compound just as the women paddle out for the first heat of the event. The sun is merciless, the trade winds are up, and the water is an enchanted, pure shade of blue. You witness Jasmine Studer’s nine-point ride kick things into motion. Barrel after barrel after barrel follows, culminating with Lucy Darragh’s inconceivable back-to-back, 8.13 and 9.93-point rides. All the gifts of the day are being unwrapped now, each one a lurching, hollow, spitting barrel. A portent of the wild day of surfing ahead. 12:59pm A 19.26 heat total for Makana Pang. A perfect ten for Dylan Wilcoxen’s disappearing act that prompted, “How the hell did he make that?” Then Rajo Barrel’s freight-train ten-point wave. And an ailing but game veteran Bruce Irons’s 15.60 heat total. The action in the water is heating up .
Despite fighting a flu, superstar Bruce Irons still fought his way through barrel after Barrel in historic style.
Handling the chaos comes with its own chances.
The Lakey Peak boys, with back-to-back wins, have announced their indelible presence.
Vahitimahana Inso took off on the biggest wave of the day and rode into the history books.
Tommy Sobry’s local knowledge was undeniable as he picked off the two best-shaped waves of the contest.
Padang Padang Beach, Bali, 3:12pm At this point, the heat of the day is demanding its toll, so you head for the beach for a cool down. As you wade in the shallow waters of the cove, you look back at the beach. You notice something peculiar. Unlike the contest compound above, most of the people on the beach aren’t surfers. You approach a man with a flower-print shirt, pink boardshorts, a mismatched hat, and a harrowing-looking sunburn to get his take on everything going on around him. “What do you think of the event?” “Oh man it’s beautiful. The waves are so big and blue. I’m really digging it” “You surf?” “Not yet” “How much would someone have to pay you to surf out there right now?” “About twenty bucks. I’d love to try it, but I’d need an instructor.” “How deep do you think the water is out there, where the waves are breaking?”
“Dunno. I’d guess about 12 meters? That seems about right.” “It’s actually about a meter” “Holy sh*t.” “You wanna change that dollar amount?” “You couldn’t pay me to go out there.” The man has just given you a perspective shift. Most onlookers have no idea how dangerous these waves are. For them, the waves are like watching a rollercoaster in the distance with no idea how often a surfer can go flying off the tracks. You walk back up the contest compound on the cliff, doubly appreciative of every ride. Padang Padang Cliffside, Bali, 4:40pm You watch the Women’s Final. A big set looms on the horizon. Ruby Berry and Lucy Darragh are first to draw blood. Ruby gets absolutely drained and drops an 8.17. Lucy gets a 7.50 and rushes back out to the lineup with a hunger in her eyes. And then Lucy’s next wave is a nine, sewing the result up.
As the heat draws to a close, you realize that, for the second year in a row, a 16-year-old girl has won the Women’s Division at the Padang Cup. The future is looking bright for the advancing surfing army of Gen Z. Padang Padang Cliffside, Bali, 5:25pm You see that the Men’s final has no lack of youth either. After the first two sets it is clear that this final is anyone’s game. Not halfway through the heat and you’ve already witnessed five 9-point rides. Then one of the biggest of the day’s waves rolls through. Rajo Barrel has priority. He drops in behind the section, but after the performances of his that you have witnessed throughout the day, you have no doubt. He manages to get around the towering whitewater and stall into a behemoth tube. You observe what can only be called a valiant ride. Rajo blasts out of the barrel with a smile you could see a mile away. As he cruises over the shoulder into the channel, he points to the crowd in triumph. He has locked in a perfect ten. A 16-year-old kid from Lakey Peak, against a field of experienced grown-ups, has just won the prestigious Rip Curl Padang Padang Cup. Padang Padang Beach, Bali 6:28pm Twenty years after Joey Barrel placed 2nd in this competition, his son raises the Padang Cup in honor of his father. Surfers of all ages from Lakey Peak are in attendance, feeling as if they have just won as well. And in a way, they have. And a 16-year-old, Lucy Darragh stands proud too, knowing that her name would be emblazoned forever onto one of the most honorable trophies any surfer on earth could win. And you realize in that moment that if the future for Gen Z surfers was looking bright before, now it is blinding.
It has become obvious that over the last five years, women’s tuberiding has made quantum leaps. And the spitting barrels of Padang Padang are the perfect showcase of their advances. Here, 2026 Champion Lucy Darragh, confident, stylish, and with perfect positioning, proves the point. The barrel is no longer the exclusive realm of men.
A DAVID BINER PORTFOLIO ON HIS NEW FILM
For most surfers, Tahiti begins and ends with Teahupo’o. For David Biner, it was just the beginning. Based in Indonesia, working under the moniker INDOEYE, David recently spent a month travelling through French Polynesia. His resulting film, South Pacific, captures the waves, landscapes and characters he encountered along the way. As he examined the thundering waves of Teahupo’o, David also took the time meet the locals and their approach to life on Tahiti. He came away with a film that not only impresses with pinpoint focus, music and editing in the surf, but with a film that celebrates the generosity of the island’s people, the depth of their connection to the ocean and the sheer scale of the environment. South Pacific is a surfer’s film. Not just a series of endless clips. For any real surfer, it is not to be missed.
Hope and Determination.
Speed and Brotherhood.
Exhalation and Exultation.
In the maw of the beast.
The price of admission.
Room with a view and made for two.
Photography by Scarreef photo
Like a ballroom dancer, to the audience of one, Bomar Arrya revels in the perfection of not only his positioning, but of the beauty of his partner as well.
(This poem was found crumpled and discarded on the floor of the restaurant at the Scar Reef Resort. Whoever wrote this was never found.) The lady said she was from Sumbawa and that I was welcome to come to her, but that I should be careful. She said that I could travel to her shores, tucked in the lee of a wonderous Sumbawan bay. She said it was a big sort of bay that is fronted by a village and that the bay was breathtakingly beautiful, but that with all beauty comes danger. She let me know she was very dangerous and that the visitors had actually given her a very dangerous nickname. She said the waters that surrounded her were crystal clear and teeming with life and that the waves that poured over her were teeming with life too. Human life. Quite often, taking that very human life in their hands just to be with her. The lady said the danger came in many forms. The love of her, the injuries because of her, she had wounded many with no regrets. Bloody wounds that led to infections and illnesses and sutures and scars. Lots of scars. The lady said that was where the dangerous nickname came from. There were humans where she existed who were very territorial and protective of her, too. And that came with the love I sought and the love I wanted from her too. She said that those who lived with her had a type of ownership that could get dangerous, too. And
the lady said I could visit by land or sea, but that both were long journeys and that it took not so much bravery as a toughness. Like all great beauty, to find it, see it, to hope to hold such beauty, always involved a dangerous journey. Of the body, the heart, the eyes, the soul. But she also said she could satisfy the desire that inspires such journeys. The lady said she did that all the time. The siren’s call, she called it, same as Greek lore. The sounds of fury and sweetness that call deep in a soul and bring the desire to the surface until it can be either satisfied or ruined. But she also said that even in failure, there is triumph to be had where she is. Triumph. She put it that way. The lady said she understood what I wanted and that she could give it to me. But I would have to take it as well. Nothing worth anything is free. The lady said that was the thing, too. My desire was also a form of slavery. The slavish craving, the fiending, for the experience. She also said that if I journeyed to her, she would not only be mine. She would belong to many who also had heard her siren’s call and that she would entertain them all. And that if I could not understand that, then I was no kind of seeker at all. And that I did not belong with her. The lady said that beauty is never enhanced by the discovery of it. And once discovered, the best one could hope for was to share that beauty and at least get to stand close to it and protect it for a little while. The lady said I was welcome to that. But nothing more. And so I did. I did get close to her. And I did protect her.
With a first name befitting the radical maneuvers that are the hallmark of his surfing, Risky Karunia bends his fins and re-directs into the power source of a wave that not only demands, but deserves perfect technique.
As the sets march through and the chances are taken and the mayhem begins, surfers like Jonathan Roberts just clear the wreckage and keep their eyes on the prize.
Where The Jungle Sets The Rules Photography and words by David Edmundson
The first thing to wake each morning isn’t the surfers. It’s the jungle. Before the sun awakens over the vast Indian Ocean, peacocks begin calling through the trees, monkeys crash across bungalow roofs and the humid air slowly fills with the sounds of another day beginning. The sweet scent of incense drifts through the village as morning offerings are quietly placed outside homes and temples, adding another layer of tranquillity to a place that already feels worlds away from the rush of modern life. By the time the first boards are strapped to the roof of a tuk-tuk, the jungle has already decided the rhythm of the day. I first arrived in Arugam Bay just before heading to university in the UK. I’d only recently fallen in love with surfing and, like so many others, had become obsessed. Indonesia filled the pages of every magazine I owned. Perfect reefs, heavy barrels and legendary line-ups were the dream, but deep down I knew I wasn’t ready for them. Then I found Sri Lanka. I had no idea that one decision would quietly shape the next chapter of my life. What I thought would be a short stop became an addiction of its own. I returned season after season until eventually this beautiful island became my home for more than four years. Looking back now, I realise it wasn’t only the waves that kept calling me back. It was the feeling of living somewhere that still moved to the heartbeat of nature. In a world of order and control, it feels rare to discover a place where life is still regulated by the ecosystem that surrounds it. Here, it’s the jungle that quietly sets the rules. Living in symbiosis with the jungle doesn’t feel like a choice; it feels like the only way this place can exist.
Arugam Bay sits on the edge of the wilderness surrounding Yala National Park, and although the village itself lies beyond its barriers, it often feels as though the jungle pays little attention to the boundaries drawn by people. Setting off for a sunrise session might mean turning a dusty corner to discover a herd of elephants crossing the road or arriving at the beach to discover one peacefully wandering the shoreline. Monkeys, peacocks, crocodiles and eagles are simply part of everyday life. You don’t go looking for wildlife here. You simply learn to share the landscape with it. Perhaps that’s why the waves feel different too. For more than fifty years surfers have been making the pilgrimage to these sand-bottom right-hand point breaks. Main Point may have put Arugam Bay on the map, but as the season unfolds the coastline slowly transforms. Swell and sand sculpt a chain of playful points hidden amongst the jungle, each offering another long wall that seems to run forever beneath the tropical sun. The famous points may draw the crowds, but some of my favourite days were spent disappearing down dusty jungle tracks in search of lesser-known setups hidden amongst the trees. Empty line-ups, playful walls and the occasional wave that would suddenly stand up over a rocky section and throw a perfect little barrel, just enough consequence to remind you that even the friendliest point breaks still demand respect. These aren’t waves that demand survival. They’re waves that invite expression.
Beginners discover the feeling that keeps them chasing waves for the rest of their lives. Intermediate surfers find confidence through repetition. Experienced surfers return because there are few places in the world where you can spend hours refining style, experimenting with different boards and drawing cleaner, more thoughtful lines. Every wave becomes another opportunity to learn, not through consequence, but through pure enjoyment.
It was a feeling.
More than a training ground, it became the place that quietly shaped me as a surfer.
Maybe that’s the real lesson the jungle teaches.
Not because it was preparing me for somewhere else, but because it taught me everything surfing asks of you. Every long wall offered another chance to slow everything down, to read the ocean, refine a line and let each wave reveal something new. Yet hidden amongst the jungle were waves with another personality altogether. Rocky takeoffs, faster sections and the occasional hollow barrel reminded you that these points could bite back if you were willing to put yourself in the right place. It was this balance of flow and consequence that made every session feel like another lesson. By the time I finally crossed the Indian Ocean to Indonesia, I realised the confidence I’d carried with me hadn’t been built through chasing bigger waves. It had been earned here, one endless point break at a time. But what stayed with me wasn’t a manoeuvre or a barrel.
There is a quiet harmony that runs through this coastline. Fishermen, farmers, surfers and wildlife all seem to move to the same rhythm. Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils, mosques and churches exist side by side, each woven naturally into village life. No one seems in a hurry to overpower the landscape. Instead, life bends gently around it.
Not everything needs to be conquered. Sri Lanka will never be defined by the world’s heaviest barrels or biggest swells, nor should it be. Its magic lies somewhere far more enduring. You wake to the sunrise over the vast Indian Ocean before spending the evening surfing towards the golden sunset melting behind the jungle. Between those two moments exists a way of life that feels increasingly rare, where nature still sets the pace and every wave unfolds beneath its watchful canopy. Indonesia may test your surfing. Arugam Bay teaches you why you fell in love with it in the first place. And long after the last wave, that’s the feeling that keeps calling you back.
NEVER-NEVER LAND
THE MENTAWAI KIDS ARE NOT AFRAID Photography by Manu Miguelez
The ruler edged perfection of the Mentawai belies the fact that its waves are as heavy as anywhere in the world. And quite often, one finds oneself in a get-me-the-hell-out-of-here situation. But it is not so for the Mentawai kids. Come hell or high thunder, their miraculous daily access to it all allows them to take the power in stride. Ifran, facing a leviathan at Bank Vaults, and not worried about a thing.
And let us not forget that the local women have come of age in these waters, too. Alin Wilcoxen, leading the ladies charge at hideaways.
Peter Pan, the famed book by J.M. Barrie about a boy who never grows old, is a door to a universe “where dreams are born and time is never planned.” And nothing could better describe the life that the Mentawai kids are living in this moment. The book overflows with magic and is seen as a wellspring of entertainment for little dreamers and rebels. Yet a closer look at this timeless novel reveals that entertainment is actually its least important element. And that its world of pirates, fairies, and mermaids serves as an artful disguise for a parable about the tragic nature of human life. A child, according to the author of Peter Pan, is someone who can be happy without a reason. A person who lives in the present, delighting in each moment. When the forever-young Peter Pan hears the call of challenge, he is “standing on a rock, facing challenge once again with that smile on his face and a drum beating within him.” That drum is the heroic fantasy of his readiness to live, or with all his power, die trying, if the occasion calls for it. Peter appears to be completely comfortable with the idea of an ultimate challenge because he has been allowed to live each day of his life to the fullest, albeit, forever. And for the fleeting days of their youth, so have the Mentawai kids. And it has formed in them not only a tribal bond unique in all the surfing world, but a unique capacity to enjoy life in the now and not worry about the future. And this makes them impeccably fearless. To them, the future is a notion so dubious and ethereal that it’s not
even worth reflecting on. And in this attitude lies their greatest power. It enables them to take wild risks over wild reefs on wild waves without considering the possibility of failure. Another remarkable trait these Mentawai kids have in common is a sense of wonder in their surroundings. The most logical interpretation of this would be an ability to see the extraordinary in the ordinary of their extraordinary tropical playground. A sense of wonder is the excitement for novelty and openness to change. It’s creative thinking and curiosity at its naive best. It’s belief in the unseen. It’s dreaming. It’s using each day as an opportunity to explore and discover the world right outside their door. It’s never feeling bored. Grown-ups so often lose this sense of wonder as they are worn down by the unimaginative demands of actually holding a job. And can so often become members of a society that thinks in stereotypes and views life not as a gift but as a heavy burden to be survived. So a patient understanding for these remarkable Mentawai youngsters may be duly called for. To encourage them to postpone growing up and to dwell in that magical Mentawai world made of faith and trust in oneself. And of course, the pixie dust of perfect waves. Perhaps these magical boys and girls are not to be chastened, but to be given free reign and to be appreciated for all their wonderous characteristics that make them so admirable, so brave, so physical and so worthy of our adult envy. If just for a little while longer.
The expression on Balon’s face says everything you need to know about surfing big rifles. But when it’s in your front yard, your relationship with the wave becomes much more synchronous. For Balon, this is not so much an expression of fear as it is one of familiarity.
Top: Shooting Star Dylan Wilcoxen’s Mentawai honed skills are the new performance high-water mark. Matching the perfection of the waves in the Mentawai with his own otherworldy abilities, makes for a match made in heavenly surf. Below: No matter how comfortable you are with your local waters, sooner or later you are going to pay a price. Ifran, facing a moment of truth and consequences at serious Bank Vaults.
A JETHRO HAYNES PORFOLIO/ WORDS BY JAMES HENDY
IT’ S ONE AND ALL FOR CORNWALL
ONAN HAG OLL
“My dad was one of the pioneers of United Kingdom surfing, and he had me and my two brothers riding waves as soon as we could swim. I was born and raised on the North coast of Cornwall, high cliffs, sandy coves, little fishing villages like St Agnes. Where I grew up, winters get battered by huge North Atlantic storms, and that’s when the waves are at their best, though the cold is brutal, with water dropping to a bone-chilling eight degrees. England’s not exactly known for its surf, but stuck out in the North Atlantic between France and Ireland, it’s no wonder Cornwall’s breaks can be as good as anywhere in the world. I spent my teens, twenties, and most of my thirties there, and honestly couldn’t have wished for a better place to grow up as a surfer.” - James Hendy, President Director, Rip Curl Indonesia -
Wild and stormy, Cornwall winters are for the well insulated and hearty. But the local crew’s stoke and camaraderie never wane. Especially when a warm pub and a pint of Guinness awaits at the end of long frigid day.
IT’ S ONE AND ALL FOR CORNWALL
ONAN HAG OLL
Winter storms can be impossibly unpredictable and brutal in Cornwall, but still able to deliver the big stuff. Seb Smart paddling out into conditions that are definitely not for the faint of heart. Local hero Seb Smart faces the dragons alone.
IT’ S ONE AND ALL FOR CORNWALL
ONAN HAG OLL
Local fishermen refer to the annual spider crab aggregation as the “Invasion of the Red Army”. As bad as tropical reefs can be here in Indonesia, bouncing off the Cornwall reefs this time of year comes with its own harrowing experience.
Surftime Grom Profile: Paris Nalendra, 15 years Homegrounds: Legian Beach At just 15 years old and the youngest surfer to ever qualify for the Rip Curl Padang Padang Cup, Paris Nalendra is poised to become a new competitive force in the Indonesian women’s surfing realm. In this, the first of our mini-profiles on upcoming Indonesian surfers, we hear from this young phenom on the subject of the future of women’s susrfing in Indonesia.
-Surfing for girls here has gotten a lot better since I started. The women’s division in the Padang Cup, lots of other comps, more opportunities for women to compete at a higher level and more respect in the line-up. The boys see that we are as serious as them. That’s a real super-development in the women’s surfing world here.
-The best thing about being a local girl surfer in Bali is that you have perfect waves at your doorstep. So there are no excuses when it comes to being a good surfer.
-Today, having boards designed just for us girls is why we saw such great tuberiding in the Cup. The boards have a lot to do with it. And the inspiration of watching the guys do it so perfectly.
Paris Nalendra, the youngest competitor to ever surf in the Rip Curl Cup, drives her point home in the afternoon hues. Photography by Rip Curl
That helped us figure it out. It’s actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. -I was really nervous and a bit scared surfing at Padang in those waves. But the most important thing was that I was so happy to be out there with only three other girls. That is so rare and so thrilling and inspirational. It’s like, we can do this, you know? -My advice for the little girls younger than me is to just stay determined. And to just send it everyday and remember to have fun. Surfing in Indonesia for women? I think it holds a bunch of greatness and I really want to be a part of it.
Portrait by Matt George
Top: Comfortable with her leading role in the grom community, Paris Nalendra is on the move. Below: With a new sponsor and an increased strength, Paris Nalendra is gaining on the older competition. Photography by Ujang Priyadi
Tara Devi Samahita, 11 years. Homegrounds : Halfway, Kuta Beach You can see it in the hands of this talented young lady. The grace of a natural dancer. Part martial art, part Ballet, every time this girl paddles out, competition or no, she is one to watch. It is so great to see a young surfer with stage presence, and Tara has it in her hands. Photography by Antonio Vargas
THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT Zoey Malia Manggaliwara. 13years.
Homegrounds: Lakey Peak After the Rip Curl Cup having been won by Lakey Peak male surfers twice in a row, it is no surprise that the Lakey Peak Girl surfers are also throwing their hat in the ring. Already an experienced traveler having surfed extensively throughout the Mentawai and even the North Shore, there is a ferocity to Zoey’s surfing that makes her dangerous whether in a heat or in a free session. When she surfs, you don’t just watch…you watch out. Photography by Antonio Vargas
MONSTER CHONG, 13 years. Homegrounds : Halfway, Kuta Beach Monster has really come into her own this year. Whether it be stellar performances in big G-land or small wave wizardry at Halfway, frontside or backside, this young powerhouse surfs with the intent of a warrior. And she is an absolute terror in a heat. With personal conviction and confidence to spare, make no mistake, Monster is here to stay. Photography by Nick Chong
Made Subawa, (Gusde Junior) 13 yEArs. Homegrounds: Halfway Kuta Beach With a style that is reminiscent of a young Rob Machado, here is a precision surfer in the making. Like Machado, Made’s flow is undeniable. He moves with a maturity far beyond his years and applies power in all the right places. With a backside off-the-lip that is already a thing of beauty, this young surfer is headed for a very stylish reputation. And in our sport, that can take you all the way. Photography by Antonio Vargas
Kadek Arjuna Putra Somiya. 11 yEArs. Homegrounds: Halfway Kuta Beach If you are carving meaningful turns at 11 years old, you are already halfway to the winners podium. This aggressive young surfer, despite his age, is surfing like his life depends on it. And maybe it does. But either way, every time this kid paddles out, there is gonna be fireworks. Photography by Antonio Vargas
Tiandra Prameswara, 12 yEArs. Homegrounds: Halfway Kuta Beach Tiandra is a very forward-thinking young surfer. Already showing the skills it takes to be a champion. Like an F1 driver, he is already thinking two turns ahead on every wave. And he never gives up, even when he gets into trouble, he fights to complete every maneuver. To him, every wave is a fast track that has a finish line and he is the driver headed for the checkered flag. Photography by Antonio Vargas
Portrait by Matt George
At 21 years old, Tosh Tudor has arrived as our most unique American freesurfer. With his casual, throwback style fueling his astonishing tuberiding mastery, he has carved out a place in surfing’s consciousness that is both pleasing to the eye and an affirmation of the importance of legacy in our sport. Though clearly his own man, Tosh’s surfing reflects not only the influence of his multiple world champion father, but also that of the previous greats who influenced his father. If there is ever a young surfer moving us into the future of tuberiding who stands on the shoulders of this greatness, then it is surely Tosh Tudor. This conversation took place at the White Monkey Surf Shop at Padang Padang in Bali July 17th, 2026. Is there something deep inside a wave, something to seek back there. Is there something that drives you back into those places? I remember the first time I ever got to tubed. I had my eyes closed, and it was just the feeling of it, like just a really serene, blissful feeling. And that became a form of addiction for me. You forget about everything else, you know? You’re just in this barrel, just going, just being there for those seconds; it’s like a crazy relief. But at the same time, an insane high. A giant, crazy energy is available to you if you can get there. You know how things can just feel right? Getting barreled feels right to me. And I just want to chase it. Always. It’s always on your mind. On mine, anyway. Considering you are named after a Reggae singer, do you smoke a lot of weed? I used to smoke a bit, and I don’t mind talking about it. I feel like a lot of people, especially from California, at like 15 or 16, it’s just the stuff you do. My Dad was a stoner, and I used to raid his stash and I was named after a reggae king, yeah, but I just stopped smoking weed one day. It just wasn’t serving me and my life and my dreams. It was no big deal. I just stopped smoking it. The reason I asked about weed right away is that you are a surfer obviously influenced by the ’70s. And in the ’70s, drugs had a great deal to do with inspiring surfers to crawl back into the tube to find some sort of enlightenment or rebirth. And it contributed to the styles of today. A style that you and your father are obviously aware of when you surf. Do you feel that drugs are part of the surfing consciousness today? I don’t see that so much anymore. Where we are going on waves is so deep that you can’t be out of your mind while you’re in there. I don’t think drugs are a huge influence on surfing today, no. But the leftover surfing style is, especially with free surfers. It’s a beautiful influence on style and boards. I am glad it’s still around. I hope it always will be. What is your go to Barrel riding equipment? When it comes to surfing Pipe or something like that, if Pipe’s proper, I go anywhere from a 6’1 to a 7’2”. Just depending on how big it gets. And then in Indonesia, the ocean is so clean and smooth here that you can get away with riding like, whatever board you feel comfortable on. I tend to ride a lot of twin fins here in Indonesia. Yeah. And I also have these edge-bottom boards right now, too.
I just like to ride a whole different variety of boards because that’s what my dad raised me on. You miss out on such a big part of surfing if you just stick to one thing, you know? What was that yellow board that you rode that got you into the finals for the Padang Padang Cup last year? Yeah. That model I’ve ridden pretty much everywhere, like all over the world. This guy, Thomas Beckson from Noosa, he made me some boards when I was younger, and I just kept riding them. And then, as I started surfing bigger and heavier waves, we made this model called the Therapist. It still has an old-school outline. Bottom contours and dome decks and thinner rails and stuff. But it still has that wide point a little bit forward. And like, it just has that older feel to it. But it does have more modern drive and more flow; I feel like. Yeah, that board works really well in today’s tuberiding. When we talked last year, you really wanted to win that event on that specific board. Well, yeah. Because if you win the event, that means you got to surf the most in perfect, empty barrels. It’s just such a special event. Getting second was fair enough. Westen Hirst deserved to win. It’s just such an insane feeling to be in a barrel riding contest. Such a sick day to be a part of. I can’t wait for this year. But, as a freesurfer, if you could win any contest in the world, which would it be? Pipe. For sure. That’s the dream. I did the Pipe Masters one year, but the conditions were pretty rough. To win on one of those perfect days? Yeah, that would satisfy the biggest wish for me. We know from your style that you’ve seen a lot of 70’s surf movies, yes? Sure. Our place in Hawaii has all these old 70’s surf films and stuff. And that’s what I grew up watching. Like pretty much from the sixties to the late eighties was what I grew up on. But then I saw Blue Horizon, and that was that. When I watched that one for the first time, I was like, oh my God, these guys are getting really, really deep. So that was just like, when I look back at it, watching those films now, whenever I turn them on, it just brings this nostalgic feeling, like this lineage type of thing.
You feel like you just get so much more appreciative of surfing when you watch it unfold and evolve and see these insane styles and what they were riding and how they were pulling it off. Like those guys were riding the hardest boards to ride and were looking smoother than the guys do now. Yeah. So it’s like, how does that work? You know? It just makes you more appreciative of just how deep surfing is when it comes to personal style and individuality on a wave. And I can’t help but notice it all. What is your spiritual relationship with California like? I mean, that’s my home. That’s where I was born. And every time I’m there, and there’s a good swell, it’s hard to beat that feeling anywhere in the world, you know? Getting good waves at home is magic stuff. And I guess I had, like, a spiritual connection with Blacks Beach when I was younger. Maybe I still do. It’s such an incredible place. Plus I liked the nude beach back then, ha! How about your connection with Hawaii? I’m just so lucky that I’ve got to spend so much time there. Hawaii is a learning experience. Learning how to handle power. There’s so much energy there. And there is such a spiritual side to things over there. There’s definitely something spiritual going on at Pipe. Yeah, I’ve been super lucky to tap into it. Definitely. And when I was 16, I had this, like, crazy run at V-land, where every time I paddled out, I would go sit at this one spot, and every single time my first wave would be just this perfect, beautiful, beautiful wave. And there would always be no one next to me. And that went on for a month. Just every single day like that. It was terrific. I was like, “How is this happening?” Maybe I was younger and was just frothing more. But still, like, I haven’t got waves like that out there since. And maybe it wasn’t spiritual, but it sure felt like it. With the direction that modern tuberiding is headed, do you think there is a limit to just how deep a surfer can ride? All that cosmic energy from a storm that creates this thing. It’s insane. This perfect spinning cylinder of energy. And I believe that we are supposed to be in it. And the feeling of that spit on your back and…All those sensations. All that feeling of getting a barrel. Like, it’s actually for us. Like we are created to get barrelled. It’s one of those things, one of those experiences, that humans are supposed to do. Maybe I’m tripping, but… think about it. Why does it call us if we were not meant to put ourselves there?. I heard Griffin got this one wave at Barbados last year that was the craziest foam ball ride ever. I’d be pretty interested to see the footage of that. So, I mean, in theory, it is possible to get that foamball thing wired. We might be able to just get used to being back in there on it, controlling the energy, moving with it, just holding on longer and learning how to actually ride the foam ball effectively. I had barrel at Desert Point that was impossible, but somehow I made it. I don’t remember how. So yeah, maybe with more experience we could learn to be comfortable and in control on the foamball. But yeah, to answer your question, the foamball is the limit when it comes to how deep we can ride in the barrel. Any deeper is just a place we don’t belong.
“All that cosmic energy from a storm that creates this thing. This Barrel. It’s insane. This perfect spinning cylinder of energy. And I believe that we are supposed to be in it”. Photography by Pete Frieden
GALLERY AGRESSION BEAUTY YOUTH COURAGE
When surfing is done right, its inherent heroic masculinity is always present. Adi Putra Hendra, Desert Point. Those of you who have been there will know just how audacious a homegrown statement he is making here. Most don’t even try. Photography by Pete Frieden
GALLERY AGRESSION BEAUTY YOUTH COURAGE
With the advent of helmets and Flotation/Impact suits, it is unbelievable what the next generation of kids are doing in the heavy stuff. Made Satria, comfortable, safe and challenging the limits of age in low tide Padang Padang. Photography by Leo Neves
GALLERY AGRESSION BEAUTY YOUTH COURAGE
Sometimes you just want to surf by yourself. Kalani Ryan recently found a short, unridden corner of a reef in the Banyaks that was perfect for a few of his small wave antics. Kalani worked on it like a skater that has found a cool little out-of-the-way cement contour. Hours later, by the end of his session, Kalani had wired three new moves. Photography by Liquid Barrel
GALLERY AGRESSION BEAUTY YOUTH COURAGE
Our eastside power waves can be chunky and slabby, making for quick mid-face decisions on the part of a surfer. At such a spot where straightening out is not an option, Tonjo Dharmaputra hits the throttle and hopes a heavy, emerald roof doesn’t cave in on his dreams. Photography by Joy
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QUIKSILVER AIR SHOW 2026 ALFAN GOES BACK-TO -BACK Photography by Nathan Lawrance Words by Antonio Vargas
Can I do it again? Can I win the Quiksilver Air Show for the second time in one year? On the beach in Canggu, these were the questions running through the mind of Alfan, the Sumbawan Lakey Peak boy with alot on the line. Winning once is one thing. Defending that title is another. Every early morning session, every wave, became part of the same question. Not for fame, but for his family, for Lakey Peak. From the very first practice session, Alfan wore the yellow jersey from the previous year. Alley-oops, frontside reverses, backside rotations, and sushi rolls flowed one after another. It wasn’t just surfing anymore; it was choreography, every air rehearsed with the same purpose, to be ready when the contest started. The days blended together. The peaceful rhythm of Lakey Peak was replaced by the chaos of Canggu. Loud music drifted from the beach clubs, scooters buzzed through the streets, and tourists crowded every corner, but none of it distracted him. Even in his sleep he was still surfing. Contest morning. Competitors gathered on the volcanic black sand of Echo Beach. The Lakey crew had arrived. Bronson, Westen, Satrio, Solit, Rajo, everyone. Alfan sat quietly in the middle of the group, watching the ocean. His mind was already in the lineup. By the end of the first day, Alfan had quietly done exactly what he needed to do. No unnecessary risks. No heroics. Just smart surfing that secured his place for another day. That night brought very little sleep. He gave up trying, got out of bed in the dark, poured himself a coffee, and forced down breakfast. And then he waited for the sun to come up. Later thast fine day, when the finalists returned to shore, Quiksilver’s Fraser Stranden asked each finalist the same question: “What will you do if you win?” Most spoke about partying. Alfan’s answer was different. Winning would help his family. It would allow him to take his mom somewhere she had always dreamed of going. He was going to make his mother’s dream come true with the dream that came true for him. It became clear in that moment that winning the Annual Quiksilver Air Show meant far more to Alfan than another trophy. And it always will.
Westen Hirst, Troy’s son continuing the family legacy of excellence at Padang Padang. Photo Nathan Lawrence
TROY HIRST 1975-2026 Sampai jumpa, Troy Troy Hirst had a profound effect on surfboard manufacturing in Indonesia. He was a great surfer who fell in love with the Indonesian waves and was deeply passionate about building surfboards. As one of the hardworking backbones of Bali’s exploding surfboard industry, Troy helped transform Indonesia into a global hotspot for surfboard manufacturing. He taught and mentored young Indonesian board builders, creating an elite team of shapers, glassers, and sanders to pump out an incredible volume of surfboards of the highest quality. Troy was also key in helping local surfers obtain access to world-class surfboards, elevating our now hyper-talented local surf community. He helped kick-start our local surf team, starting with his son Westen, then Dylan Wilcoxen, then Kalani Ryan, Kya Heuer, Philip Duke, and more. With our annual trips to the Kandui resort, every year we got more local kids on the program: Alin, Irfan, Jayden, Izrel, Alif and then a bunch of kids from Lakey Peak. While most of these kids might not realize it, Troy played a massive role in their surfing journeys. Over the years, Troy personally made sure they all got their boards on time for swells, contests, and surf trips. And just this past year, Troy experienced what any board-builder would dream of: His son, Westen, won the Padang Cup on boards that Troy had worked closely on with master designer Matt Biolos. Troy was incredibly passionate about building his son’s boards. From custom airbrushes to the secret “Yago File” to the precise fin placement on every single board.
But Troy did not stop there. He loved getting all the groms’ boards fine-tuned for competitions with sharp rails, light and tight glass jobs, and slightly tighter fin clusters. He experimented constantly with stringer-less epoxies, experimental epoxies, Black Sheep, and Light Speed tech, creating some of the lightest, smallest boards ever made. And then on weekends, he would go watch the groms grind out heats at the sandbars. Troy would always call us afterward to break down the heats, figuring out which kid needed a little more or a little less volume while taking notes on more precise dimension ideas. Troy made surfboards happen. Rush jobs, boat trips, delivering boards to remote areas. Troy always found a way to get it done right and on time. Despite all the high-stress situations he faced, he always found a solution. No one worked harder or put in the hours that Troy did. Countless weekends and days off were spent getting boards finished, whether they were for Mason Ho or just a regular guy about to arrive in Bali. Troy made surfboards, great surfboards. Surfboards that won contests, surfboards that graced magazine covers, surfboards that line the racks of shops all over Bali, and surfboards ridden by the best in the greatest waves Indonesia has to offer. Troy was our friend. A friend to all of us. We honor his hard work, his passion, and his absolute dedication to his craft. On behalf of everyone at Lost Surfboards and White Monkey Surf Shop, he will always be a part of our team. -Pete Matthews-
3RD ANNUAL EARTH ISLAND SURF FEST AT PERERENAN: A CELEBRATION OF TEAM SPIRIT! Photography by ASC / Tim Hain
Punishment and performance were applauded as two days of competition came to a close at the 3rd annual Earth Island Surf Fest at Bali’s Pererenan Beach. The waves were big and unruly during both days, making for challenging conditions but riveting surfing for the spectators. Finals Day began with more lined-up conditions. But as the day progressed, the bombs started going off again. After the second round of the Team Challenge, the Men’s and Women’s Longboard divisions took their turns before the Team Challenge semifinals decided the finalists, ultimately whittling the field from 14 teams down to four.
after joining the team to receive their awards, saying, “We were so pumped to be part of this—there’s always something special about rallying the troops, getting behind your team and cheering each other on. Big thanks to Tipi, Adi, Harry and the whole Earth Island crew for putting together such a fun event. Always good times getting the JS team together and having a crack!” Earth Island Surf Fest creator Tipi Jabrik was stoked too. “The event was great. Surf industry surf clubs, brands, shapers, Longboarders, short boarders, all coming together to join in the camaraderie, with good waves and cold beers after. Next year we plan to step it up and go even bigger.
At the awards presentation, it was announced that JS Industries had taken out the Team Challenge Final by a significant margin with a total score of 32.54, leaving BGS (29.47) and Legian Boarderiders (29.33) in a tight contest for second and third place, while Quiksilver finished fourth (23.96). JS Industries’ Dylan Hallyer was all smiles
Special thanks: Channel Islands, Eightoo, Flanagan, JS Industries, Stoody and Trash Craft. Sponsors: Bintang Crystal, Ford, Potato Head, Channel Islands, Ikigai, The Racks.
“You might never fail on a giant scale, but some failure in life is inevitable. It is impossible to live without failing at something, unless you live so cautiously that you might as well not have lived at all. In which case, you fail by default.” -JK. Rowling-
Harry Bryant, learning the great lessons in life at Desert point. Photography by Pete Frieden