Seattle Gay News
Issue 11, Volume 45, March 17, 2017
Taiwan is a safe destination for LGBT travelers and full of many wonderful surprises When I visited Taiwan for the first time in 2011, it was just for two days. But those two days were glorious, spent mostly exploring its capital city of Taipei, but also trekking to nearby villages and taking in some of its incredible sights. Blessed with the opportunity to go back last fall, this time for an entire week, I couldn’t wait to get on the plane and return to the land of dumplings, steamed buns, bubble tea and Hello Kitty. Taiwan, like other Asian countries I’ve been to – Japan, South Korea and Thailand – has its unique qualities, from its history and customs to its architecture and people. But what I love most about it is the food. The food there is some of the best I’ve had anywhere. Something else to love about Taiwan, or the Republic of China as it’s officially called, is its acceptance of all walks of life, including the LGBT community, which is supported by the government and embraced by pop culture. It may soon become the first Asian country to legalize same-sex marriage and it currently hosts the continent’s largest Gay celebration, the annual Taiwan LGBT Pride, which drew more than 80,000 people in October. I began my journey, as part of an LGBT group tour, in Taipei and then traveled to Taichung, Tainan City and Kaohsiung. Trekking around Taiwan is simple and affordable by high-speed rail, or bus, so there’s no need to rent a car during your visit. Uber service is available and popular in Taipei, and also very LGBT-friendly, sending a large team of cheery employees to the Pride festivities last fall. Definitely consider a trip to Taiwan in the near future, either for a weeklong stay, or a stopover while visiting another Asian destination. For further travel planning, log onto go2taiwan.net. Here’s a summary of my amazing trip to Taiwan, complete with hotel, restaurant and sightseeing recommendations, and, of course, how to get there. GETTING TO TAIWAN You might not know this, but traveling from Seattle to Taiwan is as easy as stepping onto one plane. That’s right, EVA Air flies nonstop between Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport (TPE), just outside Taipei, and Sea-Tac International Airport (SEA) ten times per week – daily, plus twice daily on Monday, Thursday and Saturday – with a total flight time of 12.5 to 13 hours. The Taiwanese carrier utilizes 777-300ERs in rotation with 747-400s aircraft for this route with three cabin classes: Royal Laurel (business), Elite (premium economy) and Economy. Most of EVA’s departures from Seattle are
Taipei 101 – Photo by Kingsman Photo
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
red-eye flights, giving you the entire day to work with still enough time to go home and grab your luggage, eat dinner and then head to the airport; the earliest you can check in at Sea-Tac is 9:30pm. For those wanting to leave earlier, the newly added flights on Monday, Thursday and Saturday provide daytime departures from Seattle at 11:30am with arrival in Taipei the following day at 4:30pm. EVA Air is known for its unrivaled hospitality; not just on board your flight, but from the check-in counter to baggage claim the airline’s staff is always ready to assist you professionally, efficiently and with a smile. The in-flight food is delicious and passengers requiring vegetarian, gluten-free, or other special meals can pre-order them at the time of booking, or in advance of departure (check with
the airline for specific deadline). Seats in Economy were really comfortable, so much that I slept for a total of about 7 hours on the return flight. If there’s a weakness to EVA, it’s the IFE (In-Flight Entertainment) selection, a limited menu of theatrical films and TV shows in comparison to those offered by other airlines, and a surprisingly minimal amount of new releases. Just in case, load your laptop with a few films to watch en route to Taipei, or pack a good book in your carry-on bag. If you can splurge for a Royal Laurel seat, you’ll feast on excellent Western and Asian dishes, in addition to an award-winning list of wines and various beers, cocktails and non-alcoholic beverages. In Taipei, EVA Air’s The Club lounge at the airport is the best way to pass a couple of hours before your de-
parture with hot food, chilled beer and soda, fresh coffee and other tasty treats in an open-air patio. To book your flight to Taiwan, or any of EVA’s growing list of world destinations, visit evaair.com. TAIPEI Taipei is a city of 4 million people, not including an additional 4 million that reside in the surrounding area, making it a large city indeed. But in comparison to Tokyo, which is massive, or Bangkok, which is overly congested and at times chaotic, Taiwan’s capital city is a cinch to navigate and it’s orderly; everything seems to run on time, everyone is civil and every piece of architecture, from highrise office buildings to ancient temples, fits the landscape like a see TAIWAN page ?
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Hungry for Portland: With so many good restaurants, eating is the perfect reason to visit PDX There’s no better escape for us Seattleites than a couple days spent in Portland. A three-hour trek by car or train, or even less by plane if you prefer the short hop, the Rose City is the perfect crash pad for a weekend getaway. And you don’t even need a reason to go down there, but if you do I’ll give you one: food. Portland is a haven for foodies, a place with hundreds of great restaurants that represent nearly every region of the world, from Lebanese and Russian to Argentinian and Peruvian, aside from the usual favorites, like Italian, Mexican, Indian and Ethiopian. Whether it’s a popular pizza joint, trendy neighborhood gastropub, vintage 24hour diner, or a traditional sit-down restaurant, PDX has it. Eating out in Rip City is affordable, about the same prices you’d pay in Seattle, maybe slightly lower and without the sales tax. The only thing I found surprisingly expensive was the coffee – we’re talking $3.75 for a tall drip/brewed coffee and $5.00 for a latte. Portland Dining Month is happening throughout March with over 120 participating restaurants offering three course meals for just $29, including some of the city’s standout eateries from award-winning chefs. For a complete list of participating restaurants, sorted by neighborhoods and cuisine types, plus options for vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free folks, go to travelportland.com/dining-month. Always ask the locals, especially industry workers – chefs, bartenders and servers – for the best places to chow down. From my recent two-day trip to Portland, here are a few suggestions to consider for your first or next visit there, whether it’s in the immediate future or later this year, and I’ve added a hotel recommendation and tips for exploring the city via public transportation. Go to travelportland.com for further trip planning. WHERE TO STAY The Society Hotel opened its doors in 2015, or shall we say reopened. The historic building, located in the Old Town district on the corner of NW 3rd and Davis, was built in 1881 to accommodate sailors who were on shore leave. It later became a hospital, a housing project for Japanese immigrants and then a community space for the Chinese American Citizens Alliance. Today, it’s a charming boutique property that has maintained much of its nostalgia, as well as its appearance. When I say this is a no-frills hotel, I mean it. You won’t find TVs, telephones, or closets in your rooms and neither will you stumble across a fitness center, spa, or gift shop. If any of these amenities are important to you, stay elsewhere. What you will enjoy at The Society Hotel are minimal, yet cozy and inexpensive accommodations just two blocks from downtown, making it a gem for budget travelers that want to be close to all the action. Basic rooms come with plush
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Pine Street Market – Photo courtesy of everything-portland.com
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
beds, bedside stands, 10-foot windows, coat hooks, small shelf and well, that’s about it. What about a bathroom, you ask? Down the hall, and you’ll have to share it with other guests, but the cleaning staff attends to these communal washrooms throughout the day and night, so they should be in good condition when you have to use them. As you’d expect, these rooms are priced fairly and for slightly more you can book a Private Suite with an en suite bathroom, plus all of the items you’d enjoy in the basic rooms. If you’re on a serious budget, or if you’re traveling with a group (bachelor party, sports team, etc.), consider sleeping in a hostile-style room with bunk beds. Each bunk has its own storage locker, charging station, reading light and privacy curtain, but you’ll share the space with other guests and utilize a communal bathroom. The street level Society Cafe is a nice spot to have an Americano or espresso made with local brand Ristretto Roasters Coffee, or to eat a light meal (sandwich, salad, bagel & lox, etc.), if not to curl up to a good book on either of two cushy loveseats positioned next to a fireplace. A selection of beers, wine and cocktails are also available. The wooden-floored rooftop patio is open, as well, for guests to take in panoramic views of the city with beverages from the cafe, or those purchased elsewhere. The Society Hotel is a convenient and money-saving place to stay with plenty of historic charm, and it’s a five-minute walk from Union Station, if you travel by Amtrak. To make room reservations, go
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to thesocietyhotel.com. GETTING AROUND PORTLAND Obviously, you can easily get around Portland with a car, but you don’t really have to drive. In fact, if you need to go anywhere outside the downtown core, take Uber, or for less money utilize the city’s public transportation system. TriMet is the PDX equivalent to our Metro, coordinating bus, light rail and streetcar service within the city and surrounding communities. A Day Pass for just $5 provides you with unlimited bus, train and streetcar rides for that entire day and night. Single-ride passes are also available. For more information, or to figure out how to get from Point A to Point B using the system’s trip planner, log onto trimet.org. COFFEE / BREAKFAST “We’re all about the medium roast in Portland,” said a random guy at a cafe when I asked the barista if the brewed coffee was a dark roast. Indeed, PDXers love their medium blends and semi-strong coffee, in contrast to Seattleites who overwhelmingly prefer darker, bolder roasts. That said, Brass Bar (baristapdx.com) inside the Pine Street Market is a cool spot to grab a morning cup of coffee. A new concept by local roasters Barista, this particular bar counter serves excellent lattes, espressos and other favorites in a dining hall occupied by fellow restaurants. If you lean more sweet than savory for breakfast, pick up a wacky and tasty treat from Voodoo Doughnut (voodoodoughnut.com), a Port-
land institution a couple blocks away. Coava Coffee (coavacoffee.com), across downtown on the Hawthorne Bridge in the redeveloping Central Eastside Industrial district, is another solid choice for a morning kickstart. Inside this ample and retro-warehouse space, complete with brick walls and high ceilings, is some of the best coffee in the city, according to the city’s java aficionados. Although the coffee and pastries were pricey, the ambiance and an opportunity to rub shoulders with Portland’s true hipsters is worth the excursion. For a full breakfast, Mother’s Bistro & Bar (mothersbistro.com) gets a high recommendation from me. This beloved downtown restaurant welcomes a steady flow of locals and visitors alike, who sit in the spacious main dining room or at the intimate bar on the opposite end. From omelets to waffles to eggs and meat combos, the menu features a terrific selection of American favorites, along with a few daily specials. I couldn’t resist the Biscuit Breakfast, consisting of two homemade biscuits smothered with country sausage gravy and two eggs any style. Washed down with brewed coffee from another local company, Extracto Coffee Roasters, it got my day off on a happy note. Service was very attentive and polite, while the atmosphere was bright and lively. Mother’s slogan is “It’s All About the Love,” and I can certainly agree. LUNCH / SNACKS The Pine Street Market (pinestreetpdx.com) in downtown is PDX’s first dining hall, housing multiple
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local eateries under one roof. Most of these counter-style restaurants are the offspring, or side venture, of a well-known area chef that wanted to launch a different concept of their established brand. Bless Your Heart (BYH) Burgers is the newest tenant in the building, featuring classic American burgers and fries that take you back to your childhood, while Marukin Ramen comes directly from Tokyo (Portland is one of its first US locations) and makes all of its noodles by hand. Pollo Bravo offers Spanish-style rotisserie chicken and tapas, Trifecta Annex is a go-to for freshly made breads and pastries and KURE is probably the place that health-conscious travelers want to head to for organic juices, smoothies and acai bowls. In total, there are nine eateries to choose from at Pine Street Market, and foodies should definitely make a beeline for it. Pizza isn’t a nutritious lunch, but it never disappoints. And in Portland the place to get it good, hot and by the slice is Sizzle Pie (sizzlepie. com), which probably sounds familiar to Seattleites and that’s because the small chain opened its first location in the Emerald City about two years ago on Capitol Hill. Sizzle Pie offers a variety of traditional and unconventional slices or whole pizzas with names as cool as the restaurant’s interior decor and upbeat ambiance, such as “Peppa Messiah,” “Good Luck in Jail,” “Raising Arizona” and “High on Fire,” to name a few. For $7, Sizzle Pie offers a daily special of any pizza slice and a freshly prepared salad, and for a dollar more you can add a soft drink. If you attend a concert or Trailblazers game at Moda Center, you’ll come across a Sizzle Pie counter by section 122’s aisle entrance, however, it’s most popular post is in the Pearl District, a stone’s throw from the city’s iconic Powell’s Books store. A ten to fifteen-minute walk, or quick ride on the Portland Streetcar (catch the North/South, or NS, Line and get off at the NW 23rd and Marshall stop), are two spots that locals flock to regularly in the Nob Hill district. Salt & Straw (saltandstraw.
com) is home to the Rose City’s toprated ice cream, as many locals will point out, and one of its locations is a block from the streetcar stop at NW 23rd and Marshall. Similar to Molly Moon’s here in Seattle, this shop sells handcrafted ice creams in unlikely flavors, including Pear & Blue Cheese, Arbequina Olive Oil and Honey Lavender. And although this shop is roomier than Molly Moon’s Capitol Hill location, there is very limited seating, so mostly everyone grabs their ice cream to go. Definitely try the Almond Brittle with Salted Ganache, if it’s available, as the flavors rotate seasonally and monthly special flavors are introduced. Across the street and a block over is another grazing spot that locals can’t resist, Blue Star Donuts (bluestardonuts. com). It too has multiple locations, but this shop gets lots of foot traffic from those who make frequent pit stops for gourmet-style donuts ranging in selection from Blueberry Bourbon Basil and PB&J to Raspberry Rosemary Buttermilk and Lemon Poppy. Blue Star Donuts don’t come inexpensively – my Apple Cider Fritter set me back $4.00 – and neither do they taste any different or better than our hometown Top Pot Doughnuts, or even Voodoo Donuts. But, honestly, who can resist one of these treats? DINNER Situated in the tranquil Vernon neighborhood is Hat Yai (hatyaipdx. com), another relative newcomer to the Portland food scene. Chef Earl Ninsom takes great inspiration from the southern tropical region of Thailand, specifically the city of Hat Yai, and created a menu that screams “try me.” In fact, I pondered what to order. I decided on the Braised Chicken Thigh, which was smothered generously with the restaurant’s Malaystyle red curry and it was pure delight at every bite, served with “roti,” a pan-fried Thai bread (think of naan, but fried) to dip it in. But what really caught my eye and made my mouth water was Hat Yai’s signature Fried Chicken, available by portions – Wings, Leg Quarter, Half-Chicken and Whole Chicken – and dished
Ice cream at Salt & Straw – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
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Apple cider fritter at Blue Star Donuts – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
beautifully with sticky rice. So, if you happen to make it over to this little, yet upbeat and friendly, restaurant definitely go for the chicken! Very new to PDX, as in opened for business on March 1, is Spitz (eatatspitz.com) in the Overlook neighborhood, the opposite direction but same street as Hat Yai. Based in LA, Spitz now has ten locations with the Portland restaurant that specialize in döner kebabs and Mediterra-
nean street food in fun, artsy settings such as the one here with graffitisplashed walls, cool light fixtures and an L-shaped bar counter. The food is good, if not messy, so ask for extra napkins. I certainly recommend ordering a chicken or mixed beef-lamb döner kebab, served like a wrap, and also ask for a side of Street Cart Fries – fries topped with garlic aioli, feta, tomatoes, onions, olives, pepperoncini and chili sauce.
The Society Hotel lobby – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
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From e Komo Mai to A Hui Hou: Welcome to Maui (and many happy returns)! sian Luau at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa features truly good food (not always easy to come by in a buffet format) and top-notch singers and dancers … and fire! Visit www. westinmaui.com for show times and tickets.
by Jessica Price SGN A&E Writer Whether you’re a malihini (newcomer) to the island of Maui or practically kama’aina (a local), there’s always something new to discover in Maui’s majesty and charm. With its gentler pace of life and the undisturbed allure of aina and moana (land and ocean) that draws one to return to the island again and again, Maui is a favorite for established travelers to the Hawaiian Islands. West Maui in particular was once a favorite territory to Hawaiian royalty, and it’s no wonder: Maui’s leeward (drier) side from the bustling town of Lahaina north to Kapalua is dotted with some of the best beaches in all the islands. From certain vantage points stunning views of the islands of Lana’i and Moloka’i can be seen not so far away. With calm waters for snorkeling and swimming, dramatic coastline, and a view of the emerald green West Maui mountains to your back, it can’t possibly get much better. Frequent flash sales on Alaska and Hawaiian Airlines make Maui a top destination for Seattleites looking for an impromptu or extended getaway. This time around we’ll set our sights on tried and true must-do’s and dig a little deeper into some annual events on the island of Maui.
some quick picks for tried and true Maui Must Do’s:
WELCOME TO MAUI For those that have never been before, West Maui offers more than enough to fill a week or two (or more!) with a mix of activity and total relaxation, and you don’t even need to rent a car, depending on where you stay. But if hitting the road is more your game, nothing is too far off – day trips to the Upcountry or to the Haleakala Crater in East Maui are completely easy to organize and well worth your time. (A footnote: Bring a coat! Temperatures vary wildly depending on cloud cover, elevation, and time of day.) Here are
• Tour a winery. Considered prime Hawaiian wine country at 1,600-1,900 feet above sea level, the Upcountry is home to Tedeschi Winery and MauiWine (mauiwine.com). • Visit a lavender farm. (aliikulalavender.com) A ten-acre farm and garden home to native Hawaiian plants and 45 varieties of lavender, Ali’i Kula Lavender is a Maui institution. Enjoy cooler temperatures while taking in a panoramic view of East and West Maui from the patio café. • Snorkel at Molokini Crater. This unique, crescent-shaped caldera is a marine sanctuary two miles off
MANY HAPPY RETURNS For many Seattle travelers Maui is a regular or even yearly getaway. If you’ve visited before, consider planning your trip around one of Maui’s many special events and yearly festivals to put a new spin on your next trip. Here are a few suggestions to get you started in West Maui and Wailea:
Maui’s coast, near Wailea. The absence of sediment and crystal clear waters provide unbeatable views of underwater life. • Watch the sun rise from Haleakale. Set your alarm, pack a coat, and make your way to watch the sun rise from almost 10,000 feet above sea level. The drive can take a few hours depending on where you are staying, and temperatures are often a very Seattle-like 40 degrees, so be prepared and plan ahead. Afterwards, explore Haleakala National Park’s hiking trails and tours on horseback. • Go to a luau. Many resorts offer this cultural communal dining experience, but the Wailele Polyne-
Pulehu, An Italian Grill – Photo courtesy of pulehurestaurantmaui.com
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Background: Sunrise from the top of Haleakala in Maui, Hawaii – Photo courtesy of youtube.com
Molokini Crater – Photo courtesy of billhance.com
• The 36th Annual Kapalua Wine & Food Festival, June 8-11 (www.kapaluawineandfoodfestival. com/) This festival is the creme de la creme for local epicureans and food festival thrill-seekers looking for top notch dining experiences in exotic locations. This one just so happens to be tucked in and around the tranquil, lush grounds of The Ritz-Carlton in Kapalua. Top chefs and distinguished winemakers fly in from all over, with a special focus on West Coast wineries and local/regional cuisine. The final day of this very prestigious festival culminates in Maui’s top restaurants showcasing a seafood specialty and culinary creation in competition for Maui No Ka Oi Magazine’s coveted “Best of the Fest” award. The 36th Annual Festival takes place June 8-11 and tickets are on sale now. • Celebration of the Arts, April 14-16 (www.kapaluacelebrationofthearts.com/) Many resorts in Ka’anapali host regular art and artisan markets on their grounds, and the Ritz-Carlton once again steps up to host the annual Celebration of the Arts, now in its 25th year. This longstanding festival was the #1 rated cultural event by Modern Luxury Hawaii magazine. Distinguished artists, makers, danc-
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ers, filmmakers, and cultural educators all convene in beautiful Kapalua for this event. • Maui Pride, October (www. mauipride.org/) Maui Pride typically takes place the first weekend of every October, in keeping with the strategic schedules on the other islands and allowing visitors to celebrate (again!) after the mainland festivals are over. Maui Pride is very involved in the community year round. Regular monthly community gatherings include the Rainbow Dine-Out Group, LGBTQ & Friends Hiking Group, and First Sunday LGBTQ Brunch. (See mauipride. org for a current calendar listing.) • Maui Film Festival, June 21-25 (http://www.mauifilmfestival.com) The Maui Arts & Cultural Center in Wailea hosts the largest film fest on the island each June. Aromatic island breezes and incredibly starry skies are the best theater imaginable to catch a flick and make new friends. • Art Night, Every Friday in Lahaina Aloha Friday is a reason to party and shake off the work week for locals, and every Friday evening in old Lahaina town it’s “Art Night” from 6:30pm-9:30pm. Galleries are open late and light refreshments are served. Lahaina reportedly has more galleries per capita than any other American town … it’s small, but mighty indeed. Most galleries will ship to the mainland, though smaller works and crafts are on offer as well. WHERE TO STAY The Westin Maui Resort & Spa First a little historical perspective: In 1946 Maui’s very first resort hotel was launched. In 1961 Maui’s first planned resort community opened in upscale Kaʻanapali on prime former pineapple plantation land. In 1971 the Maui Surf Hotel, designed by architect Sam Chang Architect & Associates of Honolulu, opened along the beachfront. The property changed hands and in 1985 the resort reopened as The Westin Maui Resort & Spa (https://www.westinmaui.com/). As part of the $165 million complete renovation another tower was added and original developer Christopher B. Hemmeter filled the walkways, corridors, and lawns with an extensive collection of Asian artifacts and sculpture that rest on the property even today, perpetually facing the ocean and hinting at the resort’s past life. Breezy, light-filled open-air banquet rooms, additional pools, and a luxurious spa were also added. Today the area around the Westin Maui is quite developed, with the Ka’anapali beach walk along the ocean dotted with resort after resort and plenty of tourists. However, wander the property and gardens and you’ll find many private vantage points to enjoy ocean breezes with no one for company but the aforementioned beautiful sculptures. The Westin Maui stands out from the crowd by living up to its reputation for impeccable service and offering experiences on or arranged on site so that visitors can vacation without renting a car or having to worry about a thing. Gemini Charters has catamarans that sail up to Ka’anapali Beach for guests to embark and head out on a snorkel cruise, whale watch sail or sunset cruise. The resort’s two catamarans hold 40-45 people and offer nearby whale watching depending on the season. It’s quite common to look up from your magazine or Mai Tai and see a whale spout in the distance. In fact, the tranquility of the resort’s
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Coconut husking demo by Show Host Chief Atu during a Wailele Polynesian Luau at The Westin Maui – Photo courtesy of Westin Maui
Heavenly Spa pre-treatment lounge was momentarily interrupted by a flurry of excitement when robe-clad guests looked up for a moment to see a whale’s tail in the distance during my recent visit. Speaking of treatments, this location was in fact the first Westinbranded spa to open in 2004, and offers 16 treatment rooms including two couples massage suites, relaxation lounges, sauna, steam room and whirlpools; plus a full service salon and outdoor massage cabana. The Island Essence Glow Treatment was one of the best spa services I’ve ever encountered. Beginning with a gentle full-body scrub using a mixture of Hawaiian sea salt and locally made essential fruit and nut oils, you are then whisked to a private shower to rinse off. Next you are quickly swaddled in an aromatic warm body wrap while receiving a foot massage. This serenity-restoring, skin-softening service is 50 minutes of pure bliss. The Westin operates multiple shuttles with routes departing every 15 minutes and on the hour that will deliver you right to nearby upscale shopping at Whaler’s Village, the oceanfront Outlets of Maui, or old town Lahaina, a historic whaling village whose name means “cruel sun.” There’s also a stop at the neighboring Sheraton, which features an outpost of Enterprise should you need to rent a vehicle during your stay. (They will also deliver to the Westin properties, including next door neighbor/sister property The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas, a few minutes north along the beach walk.) The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas The Westin Ka’anapali Ocean Resort Villas (http://www.westinkaanapali.com/) was built in 2003 from the ground up and added another wing in 2007. The Ocean Resort Villas are nestled in a more secluded area slightly north of the Westin Maui, and the Westin’s “Live Well” philosophy – putting well-being and comfort while away from home first
– is palpable here. Just entering the serene, white tea and jasmine scented lobby with its plantation-style beams and sweeping view of the lawn and ocean is instantly relaxing. All guest villas are reminiscent of a luxurious mini-vacation rental and are well suited to lengthier stays or travelers vacationing with friends or relatives. Spacious full bedrooms, sleeper sofas, and gorgeous living areas with long dining tables can accommodate guests inviting friends over for the evening, and the common areas on the oceanfront lawns are dotted with stainless steel grills for outdoor gatherings. Each villa features granite counters, stainless steel appliances, palatial bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs, thoughtfully chosen Hawaiian art, and comfortably furnished lanais (verandas). The weekly Aloha Friday Craft Fair & Artist’s Market is hosted by the Westin Kaʽanapali from morning until late afternoon just beyond the resort’s boardwalk. The wellcurated mix of craftsmen includes exceptional wood-carvers, jewelry makers, textiles, and clothing at reasonable prices – lending a more authentic “shop small” feel to browsing through the pop-up market tents and purchasing right from the makers. When you don’t feel like dining in at your villa, Pulehu, An Italian Grill is the star restaurant of the resort that has made a name for itself as a dining destination for locals as well as guests. Classic Italian may not be your first logical thought when visiting Maui, but Pulehu’s island twist on Italian cooking and freshly caught seafood will change your mind. Think risotto-crusted white fish with basil pesto citrus butter or seared ahi with coppa ragu and pomegranate. Or try a thin crust pizzetta with goat cheese from the Upcountry’s very own Surfing Goat Dairy, or perhaps prosciutto with Maui Gold pineapple. You’ll find another noteworthy spa treatment at the Westin Ka’anapali’s Spa Helani: the Ho’ola Ritual. This service can be provided for a couple or individually and be-
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gins with cleansing of the treatment room with a Ti leaf conducive to clearing a space per Hawaiian tradition. A scalp massage and clay mask followed by an indulgent Lomi Lomi body massage completes the rejuvenating package. Specific services change seasonally; expect some customized relief and restoration from the spring and summer sun if you are traveling soon. The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas Expanding their respectful reach along the serene beachfront in Ka’anapali, at press time the newest member of the Westin family is scheduled to open April 15. The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas (www.westinnanea. com) are nestled on 16 acres and will feature true 2 and 3 bedroom villas and, of course, bedrooms as well. The Pu’uhonua Cultural Center, a very unique immersive feature for a resort, will be just off the lobby at the new location. It is the brainchild of the resort’s Director of Culture, Makalapua Kanuha. Maka has been intrinsic to the design of the Nanea and is an inspirational leader and vibrant speaker on Hawaiian history and culture. She is renowned in Hawai’i as a passionate cultural ambassador, singer, and entertainer as well. I made her acquaintance here in Seattle last winter, when she explained to me the popular walking tours of old town Lahaina that she leads and the pleasure it brings to share Hawaiian language and history with those interested in connecting with Maui in an authentic and memorable way. You will no doubt make Maka’s acquaintance if you visit the Nanea’s Cultural Center. To participate in the fun of The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas’ grand opening cultural ceremonies and events, you can reserve online or phone 1-866-716-8140 and ask for rate plan LOPKG1 for travel from May 2017-2018. Special offers at press time include a $250 resort credit, a spa treatment credit, and a complimentary in-house resort activity for two. Aloha!
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ARTRUMPS Resistance and Action at BONFIRE BONFIRE Gallery in Seattle’s International District presents ARTRUMPS: Resistance and Action, a diverse group of artists’ powerful response to this unprecedented time of political upheaval through provocative questioning and creative humor. Throughout history artists have lead the way using their work as a voice of dissent, protest and action for change. The purpose of ARTRUMPS Resistance and Action is to present artists in a variety of mediums, cultures and geographical locations, inspiring people with politically engaging artistic expression and points of view. “This is precisely the time artists go to work.” – Toni Morrison The artists and the gallery are donating 50% of the sales of the work to nonprofits of their choice, organizations working for justice, equality, resistance, legal support and change. The exhibition will open April Fool’s Day, Saturday April 1, with a reception from 6-9pm, at the BONFIRE Gallery, 603 S. Main St., in the Panama Hotel, and continue through June 2. The gallery is open Wednesday through Saturday, noon to 5pm, and by appointment. First Thursday evening artwalk openings during the exhibition will be April 6 and May 4. For more information, call 206-790-1073 or visit www. thisisbonfire.com. “The purpose of art is the fight for freedom. Everything is art. Everything is politics.” – Ai Weiwei “A punk is a person who asks the world uncomfortable questions and does everything possible to make sure the world can’t cop out … that is what art is for us, and without art, life can’t exist.” – Pussy Riot “I prefer to accept only one type of power: the power of art over trash, the triumph of
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magic over the brute.” – Vladimir Nabokov About BONFIRE Art. Culture. Design. BONFIRE connects people through art, culture and design. BONFIRE is an art integration practice, a community gathering space and gallery, and a design practice. BONFIRE integrates art, culture and design through services, exhibits, advocacy and community events. Located in Seattle’s historic Panama Hotel, BONFIRE is a place where people gather to connect with art and design. For Bill Gaylord, owner and founder of BONFIRE, community engagement is the wellspring of civic vitality and professional effectiveness, expressed through his leadership that champions the value of art, architecture, and urbanism in public life. Bill is dedicated to connecting people through art and the power of design. ART Creating innovative solutions using art as the catalyst, BONFIRE envisions dynamic spaces and places that become destinations and the heart of their communities. CULTURE BONFIRE is a storefront gallery in Seattle where people gather to explore and celebrate art and design in an exhibition, workshop or lecture setting. DESIGN Whether a private home or a furniture piece, a retail shop or interim art space, a mixed-use building or a public square, Bill’s design skills have been widely recognized in numerous awards for design excellence. “Hand 7” by Hannah Concannon – Photo courtesy of BONFIRE Gallery
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Courtesy of BONFIRE
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TAIWAN
counter stocked with meat, seafood, vegetables and noodles to add to their dish, cooked by themselves. The Ximending neighborhood, within the Wanhua district, is Taipei’s Gay stomping grounds, where a cluster of bars with outdoor patios, dance clubs and restaurants allow you to socialize with the local LGBT community and a significant number of international visitors. Sol Bistro, CaSa Bar, K House, Cafe Dalida and Mudan are a few of the spots I’d recommend checking out in Ximending, a centralized part of the city that is safe and quite active.
continued from cover finished puzzle; there’s no wasted space. We stayed two nights at The Landis Hotel (taipei.landishotelsresorts. com), in the vibrant Zhongshan district. The hotel is both a business and leisure property with the usual guest room amenities included, such as flatscreen TV, work desk, floorto-ceiling closets with slippers and robes, personal grooming and hygiene products and bathtub/shower, as well as complimentary WiFi. I had a view of the city streets below and I could peer into residential apartments across the way from my window. What I really enjoyed about the Landis Hotel, besides its centralized location, was its French-themed restaurant on the main floor that served wonderful breakfast buffets. Western and Asian favorites, from cold cereal and fried eggs with bacon to meatstuffed dumplings and rice, plus miso soup, fresh fruit, pastries, fruit juices, coffee and tea, got my morning off to a great start. Taipei 101 (taipei-101.com.tw) is the city’s top landmark, not only by recognition but also by height, standing tall at 1,671 feet off the ground. Although it’s 101 stories high, making it the tallest skyscraper in the world up until 2004, visitors can only ascend to the 91st floor, which has an outdoor observatory, but most people take in the spectacular views from the enclosed observatory on the 89th floor. One floor below, on the 88th, is a 660-ton steel pendulum that acts as the structure’s tuned mass damper, helping to balance the building during severe storms, or unexpected strong gusts of wind. Unlike the Space Needle here at home with elevators on the exterior, the 37-second ride from the 5th to 89th floors is entirely inside the building, a comforting fact for anybody scared of heights. Once you make your way down, explore the mall on the lower levels of Taipei 101 with lots of stores and eateries, including a Taiwanese favorite, Din Tai Fung (dintaifung. com.tw). This internationally renowned restaurant, which now has a location in downtown Seattle and another in Bellevue, is known for its steamed buns and hand-forged dumplings made on the premises. Besides the dumplings, considered a national speciality, a variety of vegetables and steamed rice, plus chocolate dumplings for dessert, are available at Din Tai Fung. Another important landmark to explore while sightseeing is the Chiang Kai-shek, or CKS, Memorial Hall (cksmh.gov.tw), constructed in memory of the Republic of China’s former president, Chiang Kai-shek. Memorabilia and archives from the late leader and his family are exclusively on display in the expansive building, where a changing of the national guards happens hourly on the top level, overlooking the immense courtyard. Also worth checking out is the Song Shan Cultural Park (songshanculturalpark. org), a redeveloped area with art exhibits and showrooms that feature a diverse collection of work, some by Taiwanese locals and young students. Lungshan Temple of Manka (lungshan.org.tw), in the Wanhua district,
Street food in the Qijin district of Kaohsiung – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
is also recommended, especially for travelers wanting a history lesson. The Buddhist temple was originally erected in 1738 and though it has been destroyed multiple times by fires, earthquakes and during war time, it has been rebuilt again and again as a beloved national treasure, where locals arrive daily to worship and find peace. You’ll feel like royalty when you dine at the Yuan-Yuan Restaurant inside the immaculate Taipei Grand Hotel (grand-hotel.org), which has hosted everyone from Hollywood’s elite to global political dignitaries. The stunning dining room provides guests with impeccable views of the
city from its floor-to-ceiling windows as they feast on authentic cuisine of the Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions. Fruitful Food (fruitfulfood.com.tw) is a vegetarian buffet restaurant with a terrific selection of freshly prepared items, including pizza, soup, salads, pasta, dumplings, tofu dishes, various forms of rice and sinful desserts. I’m not a vegetarian, but I very much enjoyed this ample and busy restaurant because of its abundant offerings and the quality of food. Go Bar (gobar. com.tw) is a popular hot pot restaurant, located in the basement level of a shopping area near the Gay district. Diners choose the broth for their hot pot and then circle two sides of a long
Dragon and Tiger Pagodas of Lotus Pond in the city of Kaohsiung – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
TAICHUNG If you love traveling on trains, I suggest a ride on the Taiwan High Speed Rail (thsrc.com.tw). Much like the Shinkansen, or “Bullet Train,” in Japan, the THSR, as it’s more commonly called, will get you to mostly anywhere around the country in a matter of minutes or hours. We ventured out to Taichung from Taipei’s Main Station, a one-hour trip that afforded us glimpses of Taiwan’s bright green countryside and smaller cities along the way. The train cars were probably the cleanest and quietest I’ve ever ridden on, and passengers can choose to travel by 1st or 2nd class; the only differences between them are more legroom and a 2-2 seat configuration in 1st class vs. less legroom and 2-3 seat configuration in 2nd. Attendants come through all cars during the journey to sell coffee and snacks; although every station appeared to have a Starbucks, I brought my own coffee on board instead. Arriving late morning in Taichung allowed us plenty of time to scope out the contemporary, eclectic art collection at the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts (english.ntmofa.gov.tw), a multi-story architectural beauty with exhibits inside and outside, including some that are interactive. Taichung is the third most populated city in Taiwan and slower-paced, less expensive and less crowded than Taipei with a modern flair of its own. The Millennium Hotel Taichung (millenniumhotels.com), where we stayed, was a perfect example of this modernity, a luxurious property with grand lobby, trendy rooftop bar that overlooked the city and elegantly furnished guest rooms that provided everything from wall-mounted HD LED flatscreen TVs to glass-door showers and separate bathtubs to personal brewing systems with premium coffee and teas. In many ways, it felt like staying at a Four Seasons stateside. The breakfast buffet was abundant and the service throughout the hotel was top notch. You’ll stumble into half a dozen bubble tea shops in Seattle’s International District, but did you know that this beloved beverage originated in Taichung? Indeed, this is the birthplace of these love em’ or hate em’ milky drinks, known for their tiny tapioca balls that sink to the bottom of the cup. Also worth noting is that you can become a certified bubble tea maker, similar to a barista, by taking a 30-minute class at the Chun Shui Tang Cultural House (chunshuitang.com.tw). On the third level of the shop, doubling as a cafe with food and beverages, you’ll learn the exact ingredients and measurements, plus visual instruction from an expert,
Background: Kaohsiung, Taiwan – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
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Lungshan Temple of Manka, located in the Wanhua district – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
on how to make bubble tea, and then you’ll earn your certificate by putting the learned skills to task by creating a drink yourself. For a sumptuous meal, I recommend Wein Restaurant & Lounge (facebook.com/pages/Wein-Restaurant-Lounge), known for its traditional Peking duck dinners with all the fixins’ in an upscale setting with a mostly local clientele. And for great souvenirs from Taichung, the Miyahara Ice Cream & Confectionary (miyahara.com.tw) has artisan tea, books, stationary and dozens of other items, in addition to ice cream and sweets, in a unique store (formerly an eye clinic) that resembles something out of a Harry Potter movie. TAINAN CITY Taichung is south of Taipei and further south is Tainan City, the oldest city and former capitol of Taiwan. What I recall most about Tainan City aren’t the sights and sounds, but the food. Our first meal was at Du Hsiao Yueh (no website found), a highly rated casual restaurant serving excellent slack season danzai noodles, a speciality dish in these parts that looks very much like spaghetti with marinara sauce, but here the noodles are made by hand and the pork-based ragout is slowly-cooked for an amazing flavorful taste. Also try another local specialty, milk fish, and the sauteed greens at Du Hsiao Yueh. Suggested for a nice sit-down dinner is the Premier Restaurant (zongli. com.tw), a traditional Chinese eatery with an expansive dining room decorated with bright red carpet and wooden partitions with rice paper screens. You haven’t eaten fried rice until you’ve tried the real thing, and this place served some of the very best I’ve ever eaten, in addition to fried frog legs, braised beef with ginger and steamed vegetables. The third of three meals we had in our 24hour visit to Tainan City was breakfast at our hotel, which was slightly minimal to the buffets we had at the other hotels we stayed at. The proper-
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Slack season danzai noodles from Du Hsiao Yueh (Tainan City) – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
ty itself, Silks Place (silksplace-tainan.com.tw), was a contemporary hotel with wooden floors, windowside padded benches with fluffy pillows to capture the urban sprawl views and a lovely assortment of hand lotions and hair essentials. The Glass House lounge is an indoor bar that has an outside open-air terrace with astroturf flooring and cozy couches to mingle with fellow guests and sip cocktails. For sightseeing, the Taiwan Confucian Temple (confucius.culture. tw) dating back to 1665 during the Koxinga dynasty is now a muchvisited tourist attraction and site where ancient Confucian ceremo-
nies are still preserved. Chihkan Tower (no website found), formerly Fort Provintia, dates back further to 1653 during the Dutch colonization of Taiwan, originally used as an outpost and now standing as an historical landmark of Tainan City and the whole country. KAOHSIUNG The final city we visited was Kaohsiung, my favorite from this trip following Taipei. Kaohsiung is even further South than Tainan City, along the coast by the South China Sea. Lotus Pond is famous for its Dragon and Tiger Pagodas, twin sevenstorey towers that can be climbed by
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stairs to the top with amazing vistas from above. The newly developed Pier-2 Art Center (pier-2.khcc.tw) is a small complex of food, art galleries and shopping posts in a former industrial space; definitely wander into the Eslite bookstore and pick up a keepsake, or book, to take home with you and grab a coffee at its adorable cafe. Xiziwan, also referred to as Sizihwan, is a small hillside community in the Gushan District of the city that overlooks the bay on the Taiwan Strait. This is a must go-to place for photographers, as the views of the skyline are incredible. If you want to rub shoulders with the locals and experience the city’s public transportation, I recommend hopping on the simple-to-use Kaohsiung Mass Rapid Transit (krtco. com.tw), or KMRT, the underground light rail system. The magnifent Formosa Boulevard station includes various retail shops and snack counters in a beautifully illuminated underground plaza that also features daily artists playing piano, or other musical instruments, with a dedicated seating area to hear them perform; it’s certainly the fanciest train station I’ve been in. Our accommodations were at the dua Boutique Hotel (myboutiquehotel.com), a chic and upbeat hotel with a rooftop bar that offers 160-degree views of the city and stylish rooms with all the common amenities you’d expect from a 3 or 4-star property. The breakfast buffet, also on the top floor, provides a superb array of early morning food and beverages, including made-to-order eggs. Should you wish to discover the local street food scene, take a 5-minute ferry ride from the Kaohsiung Harbor to the Quijing District and peruse the many carts and pop-up stands lining the streets, selling everything from noodles and meat dishes to refreshments and snacks.
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Archipenko: A Modern Legacy at the Frye Art Museum through April 30 ARCHIPENKO: A MODERN LEGACY FRYE ART MUSEUM January 28 - April 30 The Frye Art Museum is presenting a major retrospective on the life and work of Alexander Archipenko (American, born Ukraine, 1887-1964). Situated at the forefront of the historic European avant-garde, Archipenko reinvigorated sculpture with his dynamic creativity at the beginning of the twentieth century. A celebrated innovator and inventor, Archipenko took an artistic path that led him from Ukraine to Moscow and then to Paris and Berlin, where he lived during a period of extraordinary cultural transformation. Archipenko’s arrival in New York in 1923 marked the start of a forty-year career in the United States as an artist, educator, and mentor. Drawn from major museum collections and private holdings, the exceptional objects presented in this exhibition highlight Archipenko’s lifelong interest in abstraction as a vehicle for innovation. In particular, works made in the United States offer insight into his exploration of negative space as sculptural form and his use of concave and convex shapes to abstract the human figure. Archipenko’s signature sculpto-paintings, brightly colored mixedmedia reliefs, are prominently featured alongside freestanding sculptures made of terra-cotta, marble, and bronze. Key motifs recur in the exhibition, such as the reclining figure and the subject of dance. Archipenko sought to imbue sculpture with concepts of movement and time through his use of color, kinetic mecha-
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Alexander Archipenko. Cleopatra, 1957. Wood, Bakelite, found objects, paint. Alexander Archipenko © 2017 Estate of Alexander Archipenko/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York.
nisms, and unexpected materials and techniques such as polychrome patina, lead casting, and electroplating. Recognized for an artistic practice that combined fine art and industry, Archipenko integrated creative tools of the past with technologies of the present as a way of propagating and advancing modern art.
on Saturday, March 25 from 2-3 pm. The Frye Art Museum is located at 704 Terry Avenue in Seattle. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 am - 5 pm; Thursday 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Monday. Admission is FREE. For more information visit http://fryemuseum.org/ or call 206 622 9250.
A free, informal talk in the galleries with Frye Art Museum Assistant Curator Sarah Margolis-Pineo about the exhibition Archipenko: A Modern Legacy wjll be held
Archipenko: A Modern Legacy is organized by International Arts & Artists, Washington, D.C., in collaboration with the Archipenko Foundation, and curated
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by Alexandra Keiser, PhD, research curator at the Archipenko Foundation, Bearsville, New York. Lead support for the Frye Art Museum’s installation is provided by BNY Mellon. Additional generous support is provided by Seattle Office of Arts & Culture, ArtsFund, the Frye Foundation and Frye Art Museum members. Courtesy of Frye Art Museum
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Jim Woodring: The Pig Went Down to the Harbor at Sunrise and Wept at the Frye Art Museum through April 16 JIM WOODRING: THE PIG WENT DOWN TO THE HARBOR AT SUNRISE AND WEPT FRYE ART MUSEUM January 21 - April 16 At once knowable and entirely strange, the work of celebrated Seattle-based artist and cartoonist Jim Woodring (American, born 1952) defies categorization, shifting between graphic novel and fine art, reality and hallucinatory vision. The Pig Went Down to the Harbor at Sunrise and Wept, a series of ten large-scale ink drawings newly commissioned by the Frye Art Museum, was created using an oversize dip pen designed and crafted by Woodring himself. The resulting drawings demonstrate the ways that unconventional tools can shape an artist’s practice, generating new technical challenges in tandem with unexpected creative rewards. These expansive compositions employ a visual language drawn from the artist’s dreams and imagination as well as from vintage American cartoons. In describing the curiosity that fuels his process, Woodring explains, “One common thread that runs through all my work is an interest in and a search for hidden forces – the invisible world. There is very much a questing, searching, seeking quality to everything I do. Each picture I draw is an attempt to answer one question and ask another one at the same time.” The Pig Went Down to the Harbor at Sunrise and Wept is a purposefully absurd yet evocative title that hints at the enigmatic events depicted within the series. In each self-contained frame, Woodring renders swirling amalgamations of phantasmagorical creatures and organic matter, avoiding recognizable characters and narratives. In doing so, the artist delves deeper into the
Jim Woodring. The Pig Went Down to the Harbor at Sunrise and Wept #6, 2016. Acrylic ink on paper. 42 x 71 in. Courtesy of the artist – Photo by Mark Woods.
surreal and fantastical universe that is central to his greater project. A gallery talk on the exhibit with Ken Allan, PhD will be held at the Frye Art Museum on April 8 from 2-3 pm, followed by a book signingwith Jim Woodring from 3-5 pm. The Frye Art Museum is located at 704 Terry Avenue in Seattle. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday 11 am - 5 pm; Thursday 11 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon-
day. Admission is FREE. For more information visit http://fryemuseum.org/ or call 206 622 9250. Woodring is best known for his comics and graphic novels depicting the anthropomorph Frank. His full-length graphic novel Weathercraft was awarded The Stranger‘s Genius Award for literature in 2010, and was a finalist for the Los Angeles Times Book Prize in 2011. Jim Woodring: The Pig Went Down to
the Harbor at Sunrise and Wept is organized by the Frye Art Museum. Support for this exhibition is provided by Vulcan Inc. Additional generous support is provided by Seattle Office of Arts & Culture, ArtsFund, the Frye Foundation, and Frye Art Museum members. Media sponsorship is provided by City Arts. Courtesy of Frye Art Museum
Jim Woodring in his studio – Photo by Mark Woods
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Island fresh: Say “aloha” to these new finds on Oahu or couches and padded armchairs in the lobby to work, study, or check your social media feeds. The hotel’s restaurant, Mahina & Suns, offers delicious food with local meat, produce and other ingredients, and the adjoining bar has a good selection of cocktails, beers and wines served by friendly and talkative bartenders that make you feel right at home, away from home. I would most certainly stay at the Surfjack again; it left such a great impression on me and it’s way too cute to resist.
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer Seattle recently earned the distinction of having the second most depressing winter in the entire country. And that would be a fair assessment, as the past few months have been a brutal mix of rain, snow, bitter temperatures and yet more rain and snow. That’s the bad news. The good news is that we’re only five and a half hours away from Hawaii and you can get there on three different airlines departing from Sea-Tac, so you can go for a holiday weekend, a midweek escape to celebrate a birthday or anniversary, or when you get the shivers, like now. Warm, sunny days are a thing in Hawaii. On the island of Oahu, where the majority of Hawaii-bound visitors go, there’s always something new to discover, whether it’s a high-rise hotel, popular restaurant, beachside bar, or retail store; it just keeps growing and changing by the minute, it seems. If you haven’t been to Oahu in a while, it’s probably time to book a trip and get reacquainted, and when you finish sunbathing on the beach, head out for some exploring and find some new happy places on the island to cool down at. For trip planning assistance, go to visit-oahu.com and to check fares on Hawaiian Airlines, which flies nonstop to Oahu and Maui from Seattle with wonderful on-board service, including complimentary meals in all cabins, log onto hawaiianairlines. com. Here are five new spots I stumbled upon during my recent trip to Oahu in November.
blessing for travelers wanting to be near the action yet also away from it, too, this newer property is delightfully cool and bright, as rooms are decorated in light-toned colors with private balconies and an assortment of nice amenities, including 40inch LED TVs, mini-refrigerators, SOUNDFREAQ radios and alarms, Hawaiian Bath & Body hand soaps, LaBottega Davines personal grooming essentials and a super comfortable bed. My room itself, on the 8th floor, wasn’t very large; however, the hotel made great use of the space and thus I never felt boxed in; in fact, it was rather cozy and the combina-
tion of ceiling fan, bare floors and the balcony sliding door left open at night allowed me to sleep well during the toasty November weather. For $25 extra per day, guests can receive a daily hospitality package that includes complimentary bottled water and local organic snacks, free morning coffee, WiFi access and the use of bicycles, board games and books during your stay. Directly in the center of the Surfjack, on the ground level, is the oval-shaped swimming pool with the hotel’s slogan “Wish You Were Here” written at the bottom that illuminates at night and you’ll also find areas to lounge around the pool,
Background: Waikiki Beach – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
The Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club If charming and adorable are adjectives you look for in a hotel, you’ll be very pleased with The Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club (surfjack.com). Located a few blocks from the beach on a side street in busy Waikiki, a
View of the Surfjack Hotel pool – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
Blue Note Hawaii For years, Honolulu’s nightlife lacked a thriving live music scene. Oahu and its neighboring islands produce some of the richest and purist musical sounds, from slack key guitar and ukelele instrumentals to serenading numbers sung by native Hawaiian vocalists, such as Kalani Pe’a, who won a Grammy Award last month for his debut recording, E Walea. With the addition of Blue Note, part of the jazz club family of live performance venues originating in New York, locals and visitors can now listen to an array of national acts and island-based artists nearly every night of the week. An eclectic roster of performers have already appeared at the 9,000 square-foot, 326-seat club since opening in December 2015, including Chaka Khan, Kenny G, Chris Botti, Chick Corea, Jake Shimabukuro and two beloved comediennes, Amy Schumer and Roseanne Barr. Blue Note guests can see and hear a range of artists playing jazz, R&B, folk, traditional pop, blues, reggae and various forms of Hawaiian music, depending on which nights they’re visiting Oahu. Similar to Dimitriou’s Jazz Alley here in Seattle, you can have dinner and cocktails during the show, from braised short ribs to grilled Atlantic salmon to freshly-made pasta and salads. Ticket prices vary on the performance and seating section, which are Premium (front of center
Stripsteak Waikiki – Photo courtesy of michaelmina.net
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flatscreen TV. It also came with a private lanai, looking out to Diamond Head. Even if you don’t want to get in the water, the pool deck is a spacious area that includes beach loungers to catch the sunrays, padded armchairs to work or study and a bar to order food and drinks. The lobby was open and inviting to guests who wanted to connect, either with each other or on the Internet, as there was complimentary WiFi throughout the hotel and four hardwire computer stations with printer available to use at no charge. I also had a mini-refrigerator, microwave, plus a Keurig brewing system in my room. Definitely consider a stay at the Hilton Garden Inn Waikiki Beach, a block from Waikiki Beach, if you want to be right in the center of things. To book a reservation, go to hgiwaikikibeach.com.
of stage), Loge (side of stage) and Bar (at the back, but elevated). For a list of upcoming shows, including Brian McKnight (September 7-9), Eric Hutchinson (August 31-September 2) and Kalani Pe’a (September 17), or to purchase tickets, visit bluenotehawaii.com. STRIPSTEAK Waikiki Let’s say you’re on Oahu to celebrate a special occasion, or you want a really nice restaurant to have dinner at. Here’s my recommendation, STRIPSTEAK Waikiki. Opened in 2016 on the top level of the newly developed International Market Place, the modern steakhouse is one of the latest additions to Chef Michael Mina’s brand of upscale restaurants, with other eateries in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Miami, Washington DC and even here in Seattle (RN74). In a sleek, ample dining room with table or booth seating and a rectangular bar counter in the middle, STRIPSTEAK is visually tempting before you’ve even glimpsed the menu. It draws a sexy, hip urban crowd who can afford the prices and look sophisticated, kind of like dining out in Vegas. The extensive menu is centered around the restaurant’s speciality, steak, and though I wasn’t craving red meat that evening, my dining companions raved about their 8 Oz Moyer Farms Angus Filet Mignon, apparently cooked to perfection and so tender that you could slice it with a nailfile. I leaned towards the Free-Range Chicken, itself succulent and cooked beautifully with a crispy skin and served alongside Okinawan potato, baby spinach and hau’ula tomato-curry sauce. Like most steakhouses, side dishes are meant to be shared here at STRIPSTEAK and we chose several to compliment our entrees, including Tokyo Tots (tater tots with yuzu aïoli and bonito), Mac & Cheese (with black truffle) and Mushrooms sauteed with red wine. Besides our mains and sides, we also kicked off the meal with an array of starter plates and signature cocktails. The Sake and Hamachi Poke with taro chips was incredibly tasty, ditto for the B-L-T Wedge Salad and the Shaka Sour 2.0 concocted with St. George terroir gin, chartreuse, shiso,
Waikiki Beach – Photo by Albert Rodriguez
lime and egg whites was fun and refreshing with a shaka hand sign etched into the foam. For dessert, try the Devil’s Food Cake, as I heard good things about it, though I went with the Trio of Ice Cream (vanilla bean, chocolate, salted caramel). I would definitely go back to STRIPSTEAK when I return to Oahu, either for a night out with friends, or for happy hour drinks. For more information, visit michaelmina.net. Hilton Garden Inn Waikiki Beach Last summer, Oahu also welcomed the Hilton Garden Inn Waikiki Beach to Kuhio Street, directly across from the International Market Place. But this isn’t just any Hilton Garden Inn, it’s the largest of its brand in the entire world, and part of the international Hilton hotel chain.
With 623 rooms and suites, it’s an alternative option for travelers preferring to stay at a Hilton and also wanting to be in the heart of Waikiki, rather than at the other end where the Hilton Hawaiian Village is situated. The property, formerly an Outrigger hotel, underwent a $115 million redevelopment that included a complete redesign of its guest rooms, lobby and pool deck, as well as adding eateries on the main floor. I was quite impressed with my City Deluxe room on the 10th floor, primarily its appearance and amount of space, from a tiled foyer with mounted art prints to the neutral, yet appealing, blend of color scheme – dark blue carpet, yellow and white striped shower curtain, ivory white benches, gray throw pillows and natural wood drawers and work desk, which doubled as the entertainment center with a 48-inch
International Market Place The International Market Place is an iconic attraction in Waikiki and after many years of needing a makeover, it finally got one. Re-opened in 2016, following a major renovation, the shopping center basically went through a complete transformation, going from frumpy to chic in a matter of months. The biggest difference between the old market and the new establishment is that now all the stores and restaurants are high-end, no longer the bargain lot where tourists could haggle vendors for a dollar off a Hawaii state license plate. Burberry, Banana Republic, Hollister, Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Swarovski, Christian Louboutin, Anthropologie, L’Occitaine and MAC Cosmetics are some of the new kids on this block, which also includes several dining options, like STRIPSTEAK, Kona Coffee Purveyors, Kona Grill and Flour & Barley Brick Oven Pizza. On its way is Herringbone, Baku and Michael Mina’s dining hall concept, The STREET. After shopping, I suggest roaming through the swervy floor-designed shopping center and listening to live music, performed by local up and coming artists every evening, or unwind at one of several plush seating areas that also have charging stations. For more information, log onto shopinternationalmarketplace.com.
Blue Note Hawaii – Photo courtesy of Blue Note Hawaii
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South Florida: Fort Lauderdale, Miami Beach and Key West by Ed Walsh SGN Contributing Writer LGBTs were a big part of the revitalization of South Florida beginning in Key West in the 1970s, Miami Beach in the 1980s, and Fort Lauderdale in the 1990s. The Gay influence is woven into the political and cultural tapestry that continues to keep those cities hot tourist destinations. If you want to combine all three cities, you could easily start by flying into the Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport. Nonstop flights from SeaTac can get you there in a little under six hours. After spending a few nights in Fort Lauderdale, you could drive 45-minutes south to Miami, spend time there and continue on the 3.5 hour drive to Key West. With a one-way car rental, you could fly back home on a connecting flight from Key West. FORT LAUDERDALE The Greater Fort Lauderdale area includes Wilton Manors (pop. 12,000) that is second only to Provincetown, Massachusetts as the nation’s Gayest city per capita. Wilton Manors also has the largest number of Gay bars, restaurants and shops of any place in Florida. Most of the Gay resorts are closer to the ocean, in Fort Lauderdale city limits, about five miles from Wilton Manors’ nightlife. Of course, Fort Lauderdale is best known for its beach, lined by its signature white rolling wave wall. People often refer to the section of the beach by the street that intersects with it. The two sections of the beach that are most popular with Gays are the Sebastian and 18th Street beaches. The latter is more popular with locals and the Sebastian Street Beach is more popular with tourists. Fort Lauderdale, like Palm Springs, is known for its wonderful Gay resorts. The city’s larg-
est, Worthington Resorts (www. theworthington.com), is three resorts combined into one with a total of 63 rooms, three swimming pools, two hot tubs and a small but wellequipped fitness room. The upscale 33-room Grand Hotel and Spa (www.grandresort.net) is next door to the Worthington and includes a fabulous spa on the property that is open to guests and non-guests alike. In Wilton Manors, the most popular Gay clubs include Georgie’s Alibi (www.alibiwiltonmanors. com), Hunters (www.huntersftlauderdale.com) and the weekend nightclub, The Manor Complex (www. themanorcomplex.com). Georgie’s is celebrating its 20th year in business this year and almost always draws a crowd. The neighboring Hunters nightclub took over from the old Boom club and the space includes a stage and is a very popular venue for live performances and dancing. Hunters is known for its very friendly staff and routinely hosts community fundraisers. Manor is a block from Georgie’s and Hunters and tends to draw a younger crowd who pack in Thursdays through Sundays. One of the newest Wilton Manors bars is the GYM Sportsbar. It is across the street from Georgie’s and Hunters and draws a friendly crowd of sports fans and guys and girls who just want to have fun. While you are having fun, you can also get tested for HIV. A van is in the Georgie’s/Hunters parking lot every night to offer free HIV tests to anyone who stops by. Wilton Drive is where you will find most of the city’s Gay nightlife and it is also home to some of South Florida’s best restaurants. Marcy Miller and her wife, Bravo’s “Top Chef” 2, Josie Smith Malave. opened Bubbles and Pearls (http://bubble-
Crystal Echevarria and Eddie Sweet administer HIV tests in the AIDS Healthcare Foundation mobile testing van in the parking lot in front of the popular Georgie’s Alibi bar in Wilton Manors – Photo by Ed Walsh
snpearls.com) last year and thanks to Malave’s culinary talents, it serves up delicious gourmet food in a very casual and friendly setting. Be sure to order its signature Key Lime pie, which draws raves from even nonKey Lime pie fans. With the closure of the New Moon Bar a couple of years ago, Wilton Manors doesn’t have a Lesbian bar any more but South Florida’s Beach Betty’s in Dania Beach is about 15 minutes south of Fort Lauderdale and has often been described as a Lesbian Cheers and a place where everyone is welcome. Wilton Manors hosts a small but very well-worth seeing storefront museum dedicated to LGBT history. The Stonewall National Museum and Archives (www.stonewall-museum. org) includes a display case dedicated to the victims of the Orlando Pulse Nightclub mass shooting as well as artifacts from the entertainment industry. Visitors are greeted near the door by the bathrobe worn by Harvey Fierstein in the groundbreaking 1980s movie Torch Song Trilogy. The museum is part of the larger Stonewall Library and Archives in Fort Lauderdale that also contains exhibits as well as an LGBT focused library. The archives contain more
than 30,000 historical artifacts dating back to the early days of the Gay rights struggle. Be sure not to miss the AIDS Museum (www.worldaidsmuseum.org) in Wilton Manors. It is the only museum in the world dedicated to AIDS. The museum includes a large red AIDS ribbon that was made of pill bottles that were used by the museum’s director, Ed Sparan. He also fashioned a framed heart made out of needles from the Egrifta medication he took to deal with the fat distribution side effect from his HIV meds. The main space in the museum includes a timeline of AIDS and debunks some of the myths surrounding the disease, including the “Patient Zero” story, which erroneously blamed a Canadian flight attendant for spreading AIDS in the U.S. A room in the museum is dedicated to the frightening impact AIDS continues to have on the African American community. Fort Lauderdale has long courted the Gay travel market and now is actively courting Transgender tourists, with various campaigns through social media and other outlets with the message that Fort Lauderdale is a very welcoming and safe destination for Trans visitors. The campaign is thanks in large part to efforts of
Background: Miami Beach unveiled their new lifeguard towers on Feb. 23, 2016 – Photo courtesy of City of Miami Beach
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Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau’s LGBTQ Managing Director Richard Gray. For more information, check out Fort Lauderdale’s official travel website: www.sunny.org/lgbt MIAMI BEACH Miami Beach’s South Beach has an official Gay beach known as the 12th Street Beach. You will know it by the rainbow flags planted in the sand in front of the beach. The Gay bars within walking distance of the beach include Palace (www.palacesouthbeach.com), directly across from the beach on Ocean Drive. This club is famous for drag shows that spill out on the sidewalk. The Gay club Twist (www. twistsobe.com) has been a fixture on Washington Ave. for 18 years. About a half mile north of Twist on Washington is the dance bar Score (www. scorebar.net). It used to be on Lincoln Road but moved three years ago. The boutique hotel, Gaythering (www.gaythering.com), as its name implies, is marketed toward the LGBT community, but it’s straightfriendly, and is located at the west end of Lincoln Road. One of the best ways to see the Greater Miami area is on the “hop on and hop off” tourist buses. A couple of companies offer the service. You can pick a bus up in South Beach and it makes stops in Miami Beach as well as in the City of Miami. Although tourists call it all Miami, Miami Beach is a city separate from Miami and is part of the barrier island between Miami and the Atlantic Ocean. The South Beach neighborhood is in the southernmost part of Miami Beach. A good overall guide to Gay Miami and other South Florida cities can be found on the website www. jumponmarkslist.com. KEY WEST Key West was LGBT-friendly long before it was fashionable. Beginning in the 1970s, Gays helped revitalize businesses along Duval
Street, the city’s main drag and a bounty of Gay resorts sprung up in place of run-down smaller hotels in the city’s historic Old Town. While many of the formerly Gay resorts have since gone mainstream, Key West still has a handful of Gay hotels that deservedly have a loyal repeat clientele. The Gay men’s 34room hotel, Island House Key West (www.islandhousekeywest.com) , deservedly ranks at the top or near the top of lists of the best Gay resorts in the U.S. It has a 24-hour cafe and is open for day passes, making it popular with locals. If you prefer a more mellow atmosphere, check out the beautiful Equator Resort (www.equatorresort.com), which is just down the street from the Island House. The property took over the adjacent Coral Tree Inn in a few years ago, expanding the resort to 34 units with two pools and hot tubs. The resort is not open for day passes and includes a free continental breakfast. Since Pearl’s Rainbow went mainstream six years ago, there are no exclusively Lesbian resorts in Key West but the fabulous Alexander’s Guesthouse (www.alexanderskeywest.com) is marketed exclusively to Gays, Lesbians, and friends of the LGBT community. It is about a 15-20 minute walk from the Island House and Equator resorts to the Gay bars on Duval Street but if you prefer to be right in the middle of the party, the New Orleans House (www.neworleanshousekw.com) inn is on Duval and its pool is part of the Garden Bar in the 801 Complex, on 801 Duval. Key West’s famed drag queen, Sushi, descends from the New Orleans’ balcony on New Year’s Eve.
nightlife, special events, and tours. Transportation Key West is an ideal place for cycling and a number of companies rent bicycles and scooters, but bikes are a better option because they are cheaper to rent and you can park them almost anywhere. We Cycle Key West (www.wecyclekw.com) is probably your best option. Their bikes are in excellent shape and the shop’s prices are cheaper than most. You can rent a one-speed coaster bike for $10 a day. You don’t need a bike with different speeds there because the city’s highest hill is barely noticeable, at just 18 feet in elevation. The short cab ride from the Key West airport to the Old Town is about $17, including a 20% tip. If you are flying into Miami International, you can catch the Airport Flyer express bus that goes to the beach for just $2.25. Once you’re there, you can easily get around on foot or by bicycle. Miami Beach has a bicycle sharing program similar to Seattle’s doomed Pronto! system called Deco Bike (www.decobike. com). A rental car is more trouble than it is worth. During busy times, traffic can be heavy in the beach area and parking can be a challenge
Key West’s warm and sunny climate is only matched by its equally warm and sunny residents. Locals are very tight-knit and are known for helping one another out. It was a tradition that was born out of necessity in its early days as an isolated island outpost.
Patrons enjoy the outside patio at Georgie’s Alibi – Photo by Chris Urso / Staff
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You may have heard the “One Human Family” slogan. It was the brainchild of well known and loved island resident JT Thompson. His foundation (www.onehumanfamily. info) produces bumper stickers and rubber wristbands to help spread the message of inclusiveness, tolerance and respect for people of all races, sexual orientations and religions. Thompson has received messages of support from small villages in remote parts of Africa to large cities from all around the world. A good way to take in some of the highlights of Key West without getting lost is by taking its world-famous open air Conch Tour Train (www.conchtourtrain.com). It’s not a real train but an open-air tram that runs regularly all day with a couple of stops if you want to get out and explore. One of the best Gay-focused tours is the blu Q Catamaran Gay Sailing. The Gay-owned and operated company has regularly scheduled excursions, including a sunset tour. You can book ahead at www.bluqkeywest.com. Key West has an active LGBT business association, the Key West Business Guild, that maintains the great website, www.gaykeywestfl.com/, which lists information on LGBT
blu Q Catamaran Gay Sailing – Photo courtesy of bluqkeywest.com
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Celebrating 41 Years!
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Seattle Gay News 27
Wild and scenic Rogue River rafting in Southern Oregon Morrison’s Rogue Wilderness Adventures is your rafting, hiking, fishing, and lodging destination on the beautiful Wild and Scenic Rogue River. For over 43 years, we have been the leader in adventure travel on Oregon’s Rogue River. We outfit one day and multi-day rafting trips, lodge to lodge trips, camping trips, raft support hiking trips, fishing trips, river equipment rentals, and shuttle services. Our award winning rafting adventures will allow you to spend time with your loved ones, disconnect from technology, and open your eyes to the beauty of nature that is in the Rogue River canyon. Wildlife is abundant along the 40-mile trip on the Rogue River. We usually see deer, black bear, river otters, ducks, turtles, bald eagles, and osprey. Enjoy your Rogue River Rafting Wilderness Adventure on the nation’s first National Wild and Scenic River. Our staff of seasoned river guides are experts at rowing the rapids of the Rogue River, they know the history of the canyon, and the natural scenic beauty. Novelist Zane Grey felt the draw of this beautiful area. He wrote many of his western books in a cabin which still stands along the river today. The area is steeped in history and lore from Native Americans to recent stories told around the
campfire. The Rogue is famous for exhilarating rapids like Rainie Falls, Upper and Lower Black Bar Falls, and Blossom Bar. The Rogue will leave you with memories of the sun dancing off the water, beautiful rock formations, and narrow canyons edged by towering cliffs. For more information on Morrison’s Rogue Wilderness Adventures and/or to make reservations visit http://www.wildrogue.com/ or phone 800-336-1647. Hiking Trips Our raft-supported hiking trips are an adventure like no other! See the Rogue from high above the river as you hike through old growth forests. The Rogue Canyon, which extends from Grave Creek to Foster Bar, features the historic Rogue River Hiking Trail. The trail sits just above the river making the river easily accessible in certain sections of the trail. Our raft-supported hiking trips are popular adventures and a great way to see and experience the Rogue River canyon by foot. Our hikes begin at Grave Creek and you will have the luxury of hiking with only a day pack and small amounts of water. When you need to re-fill on water and snacks, take a break, have lunch, or just enjoy the view from the
Try out river rafting – Photo courtesy Morrison’s Rogue Wilderness Adventures
raft, the guides will meet you on the side of the river to help. Hiking to side creeks, historic cabins, and hidden swimming pools are a treat and are always a favorite of our guests on our hiking trips. Rogue River Fishing Trips Rogue River Canyon Multi-Day Fishing: Our always popular multi-day fishing trips in the Rogue River canyon will give you a true wilderness fishing experience. Our fishing guides are experts in a variety of salmon and steelhead fishing techniques: fly fishing, spin casting, bait bouncing, and pulling plugs. We use McKenzie-style drift boats which are truly the “Rolls Royce” of river crafts. All multiday trips are in the Wild & Scenic section of the Rogue River which offers lodge to lodge accommodations and an experience you will never forget! Morrison’s Fishing Packages: Do you want to fish more than one day with our world class anglers at Morrison’s Lodge? We offer Orvis endorsed multi-day packages that include guided fishing and instruction, equipment, all meals, and lodging at Morrison’s Lodge each night.
Go fishing! – Photo courtesy Morrison’s Rogue Wilderness Adventures
Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge
20-minute drive from civilization. Enjoy the comforts of home in your lodge room, cabin, or private “tuck-away” accommodations. Kitchenettes and full kitchens are available. Or, indulge in the 4-course dinner Morrison’s is known for. Then go for a stroll along 5-acres of riverfront lawn, kick back by the fireplace in the great rooms, or make friends in the bar. All ages will enjoy a multitude of activities on the Morrison’s grounds. Indulge your athletic side in the outdoor pool, or on the tennis, basketball, and volleyball courts. Maybe, try your luck at Frisbee golf or horseshoes. Bicycles are also available. With so many options Morrison’s is an ideal spot for family reunions, conferences, and other events. Ask us about our special packages. Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge is located 16 miles downstream from Grants Pass along the banks of the famed Rogue River. The historic log lodge and individual cabins – half-hidden by groves of evergreen, maple, and oak – are a peaceful refuge from the hectic, everyday world. Whether fishing, rafting, dining or just taking it all in, guests have the luxury of walking from their lodgings to the river. Escape the Ordinary! Experience the Rogue River with Morrison’s.
Stay at the Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge – Photo courtesy Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge
The first time Lloyd Morrison saw the land upon which he would eventually build Morrison’s Lodge he knew it was special. Uniquely situated on a peaceful bend of the famous Rogue River, Morrison’s has been hosting anglers, couples, families, and other adventure seekers for more than 70 years. The secluded property feels miles from everywhere but is truly only a
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For additional information, please call (800) 826-1963 or visit the Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge website at http://morrisonslodge.com/. Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge is located at 8500 Galice Road, Merlin OR 97532. Courtesy of Rogue River Wilderness Adventures and Morrison’s Rogue River Lodge
Celebrating 41 Years!
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March 17, 2017
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Celebrating 41 Years!
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32 Seattle Gay News
March 17, 2017
Celebrating 41 Years!