Seattle Gay News
Issue 11, Volume 41, March 15, 2013
Spring travel and arts
by Albert Rodriguez SGN Travel Writer
GETTING TO DUBLIN From Seattle, you’ll have to take at least two flights to reach Dublin. I flew through Atlanta on Delta, although a simpler and quicker route would be through Paris (also on Delta) or through London (British Airways). Upon arrival, purchase a Dublin Bus “Airlink” pass (6 euros, one way) at the currency exchange counter by baggage claim. Then follow the “Bus”
fireplace and tucked-away library provide hushed areas to glance over the morning newspaper or edit that work report. My “deluxe premium” room on the top floor (5th) overlooked St. Stephen’s Green and nearby rooftops, thanks to a spacious terrace with patio table and chairs. The room itself was equipped with a firm fourworld all details
Dublin might appear to be a typical European city at first glance – brick buildings, old cathedrals, cobblestone streets. But when you explore its quiet neighborhoods, famed pubs, lush parks, laid-back pace, and persistent quirkiness, you’ll find it possesses an individual charm and character that leaves a huge imprint long after you leave. With just 550,000 residents, the Irish capital is smaller than Seattle and incredibly easy to navigate by public transportation or on foot. The climate is similar to the Pacific Northwest, yet slightly colder in the winter months with brutal wind chills. Dublin is fairly open-minded, making it a comfortable destination for Gay visitors, although the locals seemed more reserved and harder to approach than I anticipated. Everything was reasonably affordable, from food to entertainment to cab rides, and it felt safe walking around late at night, even into the early morning hours. If you’re contemplating a trip to Dublin, or anywhere in the country, visit www.ireland.com for further assistance. Here’s what I recommend doing there.
signage to the street-level platform outside the terminal. Be sure to stand underneath the “Airlink 747” sign and wait for the double-decker bus that will take you into central Dublin in about 20 minutes. Compare your hotel address with the Airlink zone map before boarding the bus to know where to get off.
Christ Church Cathedral
ACCOMMODATIONS Anchor your stay at The Fitzwilliam Hotel (www.fitzwilliamhotel.com), a five-star property bordering St. Stephen’s Green, a miniscule Central Park of sorts. Its location allows convenient access by foot to Trinity College, Temple Bar, The Gaiety Theatre, Ha’penny Bridge, and dozens upon dozens of restaurants, pubs, retail stores, coffee shops, and Gay nightlife. A tastefully decorated lobby with
poster bed, work desk, flatscreen TV, CD player with mp3 connection, bathtub and rainfall shower head, quality teas, highend soaps and lotions, take-home slippers, and complimentary chilled water. If I owned a studio flat in Dublin, this is what I’d want it to look like. Continental and full breakfasts are served at Citron, a mezzanine-level restaurant that attracts a steady lunch and
dinner crowd. Inn on the Green is a chic lounge nestled at the far end of the main floor, where guests can sip cocktails and wine with some seclusion. Service is polite and professional. DINING & DRINKING Traditional Irish fare such as lamb stew with soda bread, fish ’n’ chips, and blood sausage (for breakfast) is everywhere. Any pub or cafe will likely serve these dishes. I enjoyed wonderful meals in more contemporary settings, including a hearty bowl of celery root soup and pumpkin risotto for lunch at Coppinger Row (www. coppingerrow.com), a five-minute walk from the Fitzwilliam. A painted brick interior and perched counter seating with views of the kitchen and wine bottlestocked shelves gave this Mediterraneaninfluenced bistro a rather rustic, cozy feel. A suggested dinner spot is 37 Dawson Street (www.37dawsonstreet.ie), a sought-after restaurant by young, primly dressed Gay and straight couples. The mood is elegant and romantic with crystal chandeliers and silk drapes, the energy is vibrant, and the dining space is split into two intimate halves with a small, curved bar on one side. 37 Dawson Street’s dinner-theater theme is noticeably reflected on the menu, whose categories include “Curtain Call,” “Opening Acts,” and “Main Acts.” I was quite satisfied with my perfectly cooked 8-oz. kettle filet of beef served with creamed potatoes, buttermilk onion rings, and pepper sauce. Eating Mexican food in Ireland might see dublin page 18
Austin
The shining star of Texas
by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer
lamberts austin
Alexis Grimaldo
Austin isn’t just liberal by Texas standards – it’s one of the nation’s most progressive cities, as well as a luminary in live music venues, cutting-edge restaurants and bars, indie retail, and outdoor recreation. It’s routinely cited as one of the coolest and most livable cities in the country, and it’s steadily developed into a highly popular Gay and Lesbian destination, especially during key arts and cultural events like South by Southwest in mid-March, Gay Pride in early September, Austin City Limits Music Festival in early October, and the Austin Film Festival in late October. The city makes for a great visit year-round, though, as even during the hot summer months you’ll find plenty of great ways to cool off, from swimming at Barton Springs to boating and sunbathing at clothingoptional Hippie Hollow on Lake Travis. The Lone Star State’s capital city, Austin (www. austintexas.org) continues to soar in population. It’s grown from about 470,000 to 820,000 since 1990 to become the nation’s 13th largest city. There’s a sizable and very visible Gay scene, and many businesses around town are LGBT-owned, although the community is very well-integrated within Austin’s as a whole – there’s no specific Gayborhood, and at many of the city’s top nightspots and restaurants you’ll encounter a decidedly mixed crowd. Austin may also have more Lesbian-owned accommodations than any city in the country,
including hip, design-driven boutique propHere’s a look at some of Austin’s favorite hard-to-find beers and wines. Recent erties like the Hotel San Jose and the Kim- LGBT hot spots for dining, drinking, and dishes have included a chicken-fried ber Modern. chicken egg, and duck foie gras with accommodations. carrot, lavender, farro, and hibiscus. If there’s a wait for a table, step next door DINING The locavore food movement to Henri’s (henrischeese.com), a dapper thrives in Austin. Many leading little spot serving artisan cheeses, charfarm-to-table restaurants are in cuterie, and wine. South Congress Café (www.souththe trendy South Congress (SoCo) and South Lamar neighborhoods, congresscafe.com) has been one of a short drive across the river from SoCo’s hot spots for years, turning out downtown, and just across I-35 delicious contemporary Texan cuisine from downtown in steadily gentri- like mesquite-grilled pork chops and (at fying East Austin. These areas also brunch) carrot-cake French toast with cream cheese-pecan syrup. Owned by talented Gay restaurateur Lou Lambert, the Elizabeth Street Café (elizabethstreetcafe. com) serves creative Vietnamese food, including hearty noodle bowls and Texas-inspired kaffir-lime fried chicken banh mi sandwiches. Owned by the same team is Lamberts (w w w. l a m b e r t s a u s t i n . com), a sleek downtown space that describes its fare as “fancy” barbecue (think cold-smoked quail and oak-grilled Colorado lamb T-bones). For more authentic Texas barbecue, prepare to stand in line for a seat at Franklin Barbecue Lamberts (franklinbarbecue.com), which is justly famous for its tender brisket and smoked sausage. Across from two Gay bars in the Warehouse District, Peche (www.pecheaustin. com) is a romantic, cozy place with exposed-brick walls and high ceiling, serving pre-Prohibition-style Oilcan Harrys cocktails and fine American and Continental fare. abound with cool food trucks. In South La- Nearby, Frank (hotdogscoldbeer.com) is mar, you’ll find the stellar gastropub Bar- a good bet for cold beer and hot sausages, ley Swine (barleyswine.com), a bustling if with the Jackalope (antelope, rabbit, and cramped space serving first-rate food and pork sausage with cranberry compote, Sriracha aioli, and cheddar) a signature specialty. A few blocks away, head to
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Seattle Gay News
March 15, 2013
file photo
The Texas State Capitol in Austin
Celebrating 40 Years!
stylish and contemporary La Condesa (lacondesa.com/austin) for artfully plated food inspired by Mexican street vendors, including ceviche, carnitas taquitos, and carne asada. Return to South Lamar to campy Maria’s Taco Xpress (www.tacoxpress. com) for cheap and tasty Tex-Mex fare, from al pastor tacos to gorditas. You might want to break up your exploring with a stop for sweets. A longtime favorite for its rich, creatively flavored ice creams (bacon-jalapeno popper, banana pudding, Mexican vanilla) is Amy’s (www. amysicecreams.com), which has locations in several fun neighborhoods, including South Congress, downtown’s Old West, and the UT district. Newer in town and receiving lots of attention for its superb artisan ice cream, Gay-owned Lick (ilikelick. com) serves such delightfully daring flavors as roasted-beets-and-fresh-mint, and goat cheese-thyme-honey. Coffeehouses have a major presence in Austin. The cafe inside the famous and LGBT-popular Book People (www.bookpeople.com) bookstore is always a good bet. South Austin’s Bouldin Creek Café (www.bouldincreek.com) has delicious fairtrade coffee and chocolates, plus excellent breakfasts (try the migas) and veggie tacos. And in East Austin, Texas Coffee Traders (www.texascoffeetraders.com) is one of the city’s most respected artisan roasters. BARS AND NIGHTLIFE In downtown Austin, the Warehouse District has long been a favorite hub of Gay nightlife – it’s home to long-running Oilcan Harry’s (www.oilcanharrys.com), an always-packed stand-and-model bar that attracts a hot collegiate crowd and has a spacious back patio. Next door, Rain on 4th (www.rainon4th.com) has a lovely deck out back, a cozy billiards bar up front, and a mid-size dance bar in the middle. A couple of doors down, newcomer Posh (www. facebook.com/PoshAustin) restaurant and bar is rapidly become a popular option in the neighborhood. For a somewhat mellower scene, head across the street to stylish Halcyon (www.halcyonaustin.com), a Gayfriendly hangout serving everything from espresso drinks to cocktails, plus tasty food. On the east side of downtown, Rusty’s (www.rustysaustin.com) is an inviting, mixed guys/Lesbians venue with live music, often of the country-western bent. There’s also a fun Latin party on Sunday evenings. Nearby Lipstick 24 (lipstick24austin.com) is the city’s top Lesbian venue, although everybody is quite welcome here. Head for the attractive deck on warm evenings and enjoy the live entertainment, which ranges from local bands to poetry readings to belly dancing. A few miles north of downtown, ’Bout Time II (www.bouttime2.com) is a welcoming neighborhood bar in a relatively new and roomy space that has karaoke, dancing, and great drink specials. On the west side of downtown, The Iron Bear (www.theironbear.com) is – you guessed it – a hot spot for bears, otters, and the like. It’s an attractive space with cool bartenders and a no-attitude vibe. Also popular with the leather-bear set is Chain Drive (www.chain-drive.com), a roughand-tumble bar that’s been thriving on the edge of a sleepy downtown-adjacent neighborhood for years. This area, particularly its main drag, Rainey Street, has suddenly become a hot destination for drinking and dining, with a passel of cool hipster lounges and restaurants set inside converted Arts and Crafts bungalows. Favorites include Javelina Bar (www.javelinabar.com) for delicious bar food (green chile pork fries, miga burgers), and Blackheart Bar (www.blackheartbar.com) for live music and a great selection of bourbon and whiskey. Some downtown clubs have Gay nights, including Barbarella (www.barbarellaaustin.com), which hosts a very fun TuezGayz party each week, and the Warehouse District’s Republic Live (republicliveaustin. snappages.com), which often has Gay par-
ties and events. And there’s a slew of noteworthy mixed hangouts, including (to name a few) Gibson (www.gibsonaustin.com) on South Lamar, the sleekly decorated Hangar Lounge (www.thehangarlounge. com) in downtown Gay-popular Warehouse District, quirky Cheer Up Charlies (www.facebook.com/cheerupcharlies) in East Austin, and Spider House (www.spiderhousecafe.com), a funky bar and coffee lounge near the UT campus. LODGING In the heart of downtown, the wonderfully glamorous, significantly historic, and allegedly haunted Driskill Hotel (www. driskillhotel.com) is where dignitaries and celebrities often stay when in town. This gorgeously restored 1886 building with fine artwork lining the hallways has warmly furnished rooms, the acclaimed Driskill Grill restaurant, and an inviting bar that serves great cocktails and tasty snacks like truffled popcorn and house-baked soft-pretzel sticks. Other great options downtown include the swish W Austin (www.whotelaustin.com), with its striking contemporary rooms and see-and-be-seen bar and restaurant, and the 31-story Hilton Austin (www. hilton.com/austin), a great option for convenience to 6th Street music clubs and Rainey Street lounges and restaurants. Across the river, you’ll find another excellent lodging base in retro-trendy SoCo, home to the bargain-priced Austin Motel (www.austinmotel.com). Rooms at this quirky slice of ’50s-style Americana have simple but comfortable furniture, and some have kitchenettes. A few blocks away, and owned by trendsetting Lesbian designer Liz Lambert (sister of Gay restaurateur Lou Lambert), the Hotel San Jose (www. sanjosehotel.com) is another vintage motor court, but it’s been given a swanky postmodern, minimalist makeover – the spacious courtyard suites are especially posh. Lambert also owns the stylish Hotel Saint Cecilia (www.hotelstcecilia.com), which is nearby but on a quieter residential street. In the same area, partners Kimber Cavendish and Vicki Faust run the Kimber Modern (kimbermodern.com), a dramatic boutique hotel whose high-tech, minimalist rooms have such notable features as plush platform beds and sleek yet warm furnishings. Austin has a handful of Lesbian-owned B&Bs, each with its own charm. In SoCo, the Park Lane Guest House (www. parklaneguesthouse.com) is a peaceful, eco-minded hideaway comprising three spacious cottages as well as a more affordable room in the main house. Not far away, Gateway Guesthouse (www.gatewayguest. com) is a striking 1918 beauty with six smartly furnished rooms or cottages. Coowner Bess Giannakakis, a talented chef, prepares delicious breakfasts and teaches cooking classes at the inn. And in leafy Old West Austin, the Brava House (www.bravahouse.com) is an elegant 1880s Victorian within walking distance of downtown and a number of great restaurants. For a relaxing yet potentially invigorating experience out by Lake Travis (near Hippie Hollow’s popular Gay beach), book a weekend at Travaasa Austin (www.travaasa. com/austin), an “experiential resort” where you can go on hikes or horseback adventures, take archery or yoga classes, enjoy a massage in the serene spa, take cooking or mixology lessons, or simply chill out for a few days in this rural setting that’s just 20 miles northwest of downtown. The property comprises several clusters of buildings with upscale rooms, plus a terrific restaurant – Jean’s Kitchen – that focuses on locally sourced cuisine as well as craft beers, wines, and spirits from Austin and the Hill Country region. Andrew Collins is the editor in chief of the LGBT travel magazines OutAloha and OutCity, and he covers Gay travel for the website GayTravel.About.com. He can be reached at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.
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joan marcus
Kyle Eastwood Band March 19-20
Bassist, Composer & Bandleader Cool and Laid-Back Jazz!
Holly Cole March 28-31
Intelligent and Sophisticated Jazz-Infused Songstress Touring in Support of her New Release “Night”
Spencer Day CD Release Party April 9-10
Modern day jazz singer and songwriter touring in support of his fourth release “The Mystery of You”
Molly Ringwald CD Release Party April 15
Critically-acclaimed actress, author and singer signs to Concord Records and launches world tour! Debut CD, “Except… Sometimes” (street date April 9)
Joan Osborne and The Holmes Brothers April 18-21
Grammy-Nominated Singer/ Songwriter touring in support of her bluesy new release “Bring It On Home”
UPCOMING BOBBY CALDWELL APRIL 25 – 28 CHICK COREA AND THE VIGIL MAY 2-5 THE GREYBOY ALLSTARS MAY 16 – 19 GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE
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Seattle Gay News
Priscilla Queen of the Desert
by Eric Andrews-Katz SGN A&E Writer Last week, every Seattle theater geek started to quiver. Bets were made, breath was held, prayers were prayed – and the city’s three main theaters announced their upcoming seasons. The Paramount (Broadway Across America), The 5th Avenue Theatre, and the Village Theatre all are offering shows that definitely should not be missed. THE 5TH AVENUE THEATRE Under the direction of David Armstrong, the 5th Avenue has a wonderful reputation of bringing modern Broadway shows, wonderful revivals and, often, new shows that are being premiered in Seattle with hopes of going to the Great White Way. Secondhand Lions (Sept. 7–Oct. 6) marks the 15th new production that the 5th Avenue has presented in hopes of sending it to Broadway. Based on the film by the same name, the musical (book by Rupert Holmes, music/lyrics by Alan Zachary and Michael Weiner) concerns a young boy whose two uncles tell him tall tales, stretching his imagination far beyond his small Texas hometown. Anything Goes (Oct. 15–Nov. 3) is the classic Cole Porter musical that has delighted Broadway audiences again and again. Slapstick humor, big tap-dance numbers, and wonderful songs including “It’s De-Lovely,” “Blow, Gabriel, Blow,” and “You’re the Top” make this a perennial crowd-pleaser. Oliver! (Nov. 29–Dec. 31) is this year’s holiday musical. Celebrating its 50th Broadway anniversary, this musical is based on the classic Dickens tale. Familypleasing songs like “Consider Yourself,” “Food, Glorious Food,” and “Oom-PahPah” offer something for everyone. Monty Python’s Spamalot (Jan. 30– March 2, 2014): has had everyone laughing since its premiere in 2005. Based on (or “lovingly ripped off from”) the film Monty Python and the Holy Grail, this tale of King Arthur and his knights highlights the talents of the beloved British comedy group. It was written mostly by original Python member Eric Idle. Little Shop of Horrors (March 8–June 15, 2014), produced in collaboration with ACT Theatre, will be presented at that venue. Based on the B-cult horror film by Roger Corman, the movie gave way to an Off-Broadway smash hit musical in 1983. The musical meshes the styles of Motown, doo-wop, and ballads with a tongue-incheek presentation.
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A Room With a View (April 15–May 11, 2014) is a new musical based on the classic novel by E.M. Forster. Set in the British world of privilege, this production, with a contemporary score, is being described as a romantic comedy. Music and lyrics are by Jeffrey Stock and the book by Marc Acito (who also contributed to the lyrics). David Armstrong will be directing this show for its Seattle premiere! The Gershwins’ Porgy & Bess (June 11–29, 2014) finishes the 5th Avenue season. This controversial production takes the beloved operetta by George and Ira Gershwin and DuBose and Dorothy Heyward and gives it a more “theatrical” staging. While the production enjoyed an eight-month run on Broadway, the changes spurred much debate in the theatrical community. THE VILLAGE THEATRE The Village Theatre presents a variety of musicals from the classic to the modern to the original. This theater, with venues in Issaquah and Everett, produced the first readings and staging of the Pulitzer Prizewinning musical Next to Normal. Trails (Issaquah March 14–April 21; Everett April 26–May 19) is a premiere musical with a book by Christy Hall, music by Jeff Thomson, and lyrics by Jordan Mann. Two men are reluctantly brought together to fulfill a promise made over 10 years ago to the woman they both loved. Chicago (Issaquah May 9–June 29; Everett July 5–28) needs no explanation at this point. The beloved musical turned Academy Award-winning movie is now the longest-running revival in Broadway history! Join the murderesses of the Cook County Jail as they exploit the corrupt system to their advantage. Xanadu (Issaquah Sept. 12–Oct. 20; Everett Oct. 25–Nov. 17) is based on the cultclassic musical film of the ’80s. With a giant wink to the audience, this staged musical is a love song to the era’s romantic comedy, big hair, leg warmers, and roller skates! Les Misérables (Issaquah Nov. 7, 2013– Jan. 5, 2014; Everett Jan. 10–Feb. 2, 2014) celebrates the new year with one of the bestloved musicals of all time. The Foreigner (Issaquah Jan. 23–March 2, 2014; Everett March 7–30, 2014) tells the tale of Charlie, who goes away to a private lodge in hopes of finding peace and quiet. Posing as a non-English-speaking foreigner to avoid conversation, he soon finds that people will say the strangest things when they think no one can understand them. The Tutor (Issaquah March 20–April 27, 2014; Everett May 2–25, 2014) is another
premiere musical! Music by Andrew Gerle and book/lyrics by Maryrose Wood, this new show presents an inspiring novelist who tutors to pay the bills. After studying the rich kids he teaches, the young author stumbles on what he thinks is the formula to success. Funny Girl (Issaquah May 15–July 6, 2014; Everett July 11–Aug. 3) is rarely seen on stage. Telling the story of the rise of Ziegfeld Follies star Fanny Brice and her gangster husband, Nick Arnstein, this musical biography propelled Barbra Streisand to stardom. The musical that gave the world the songs “People,” “I Am the Beautiful Reflection,” and “Don’t Rain on My Parade” will please all members of the family. THE PARAMOUNT THEATRE The Wizard of Oz (beginning Oct. 9) is a new version from Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber’s production company. Based on the classic film, this production has been “reimagined for the stage.” Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (beginning Nov. 12) is the stage adaptation of the highly successful movie musical. Telling the story of three drag queen performers traveling through the Australian desert, this stage production is produced by the one and only Bette Midler. EVITA (beginning Jan. 2, 2014) is the biography-musical of the controversial First Lady of Argentina, from her birth in poverty to her rise through the country’s political ranks. The Lion King (beginning March 11, 2014) consistently delights audiences of all ages, even after 15 years! Based on the 1994 Disney film, this production features brilliant puppetry and staging. Once (beginning May 31, 2014), based on the hit movie, swept the Tony Awards of 2012. A musical comedy that began on Broadway in February 2012, it still plays to packed houses. The Book of Mormon (beginning July 22, 2014): O-kayyy! I think we all can remember how difficult it was to get tickets to this show when it played here in January. Time to think about a subscription to guarantee tickets this time around! No matter what your tastes are, there is something for you waiting at your local theater. The magic of live theater is an experience like no other. Providing escape, distraction, inspiration, and enlightenment, this art form is something to be enjoyed and shared by people of all ages and walks of life. Thanks to the local theaters of Seattle, our choices are varied indeed!
Celebrating 40 Years!
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by Andrew Collins SGN Contributing Writer Few places in North America are more misunderstood by U.S. travelers – and to a certain extent by travelers worldwide – than Mexico City, a dynamic and unquestionably enormous metropolis that’s incredibly rich in history, abundant with culture, blessed with chic restaurants and Gay-friendly bars, and abuzz with trendy hotels. This city with a staggering metro-regional population of 21.6 million and a dizzying – to many newcomers at least – elevation of about 7,500 feet is expensive by Mexican standards, especially when it comes to international hotels, restaurants, and other establishments that cater to businesspeople and well-heeled travelers. But if you factor in the strength of the dollar against the peso, and especially if you venture a bit off the beaten path, you can enjoy a five-star vacation here for a fraction of what you’d pay for a comparable experience in many U.S. cities. Mexico City (visitmexico.com/en/ mexico-city) is relatively safe – the city’s violent crime rate is about the same as that of New Orleans or Chicago. Bad things do happen, but if you take the same commonsense precautions you would in any
big city, you’ll likely feel as safe here as you would in the French Quarter or Lincoln Park. Pollution is another longtime knock on Mexico City and it’s still an issue here, but drastic measures over the past decade have resulted in significant improvements. Most visitors who spend a few days or more here come away surprised – even perplexed – by the unfair press Mexico City has received over the years. Whatever the city’s risks and inconveniences, they’re greatly outweighed by its bohemian sophistication, creative energy, and friendly demeanor. DOWNTOWN DELIGHTS For such an expansive place, it’s relatively easy and very affordable to get around Mexico City. Cabs are inexpensive, although traffic can be frustratingly slow in central neighborhoods. The city’s efficient, safe, and unbelievably cheap subway system, the Metro, is the second most extensive in North America, with 12 lines. No visit here is complete without spending at least a day downtown in the Cen-
tro Historico and adjoining Alameda Park areas, where you’ll find a number of noteworthy attractions. Here at the city’s main square, Zocalo, you’re a stone’s throw from the National Palace, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the fascinating Templo Mayor Aztec excavations, the Museum of the City of Mexico, and San Ildefonso College (now a museum and cultural center with huge murals by Rivera, Orozco, and others). The neighborhood is also home to the beloved Gay club El Marrakech Salón, an extremely fun and friendly (no cover charge) space for dancing and drinking. Also worth a look is the endearingly dive-y, to the point that it’s somewhat trendy, Cerveceria Viena. Around nearby Alameda Park, you’ll find many of the top arts attractions in the city, among them the spectacular Palacio de Bellas Artes with its glorious art-deco interior; the Museo Mural Diego Rivera; and the Museo Nacional de
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ECLECTIC ENCLAVES On the east side of Chapultepec Park you’ll find the artsy and increasingly trendy Condesa and Roma neighborhoods, which have a sizable LGBT population and enough cool and inviting bars, cafes, and restaurants to keep you busy for weeks. Condesa is well past being “edgy” at this point – it’s a certifiably gentrified, hipster-approved neighborhood with leafy parks, quite a few galleries, and an artsy, relaxed pace com-
andrew collins
Palacio de Bellas Artes, Mexico City
Arte. Fringing the north side of enormous and beautiful Chapultepec Park, the upscale Polanco district is a favorite area for high-end shopping and dining. In the park itself, you’ll find such iconic attractions as the Museum of Modern Art, National Museum of Anthropology, Museum of Natural History, Chapultepec Zoo, and Chapultepec Castle. There’s not much of a Gay scene in this part of the city, although the Friday-night party Envy (envytheclub.com) and Saturday-night fete Guilt (at Anatole France 120) are two of the hottest LGBT events in Mexico City and are well worth checking out if you like dancing into the wee hours.
Celebrating 40 Years!
pared to parts of the city more dominated by skyscrapers and traffic-choked boulevards. There’s a fun Gay hangout, too, Tom’s Leather Bar (which actually draws a very mixed crowd). Think of Palermo Viejo in Buenos Aires, Greenwich Village in New York City, or Kreuzberg in Berlin – Condesa and Roma have a somewhat similar vibe. A short walk north, Zona Rosa contains the lion’s share of Mexico City’s Gay bars and businesses, many of them along Calle Amberes and the adjacent side streets, from about Paseo de la Reforma to Avenida Chapultepec. It’s reasonably safe to walk around here, but keep your wits about you and avoid wearing flashy jewelry or attire. Top picks for partying include the drag cabaret El Butter, the adjoining bars Pussy (for
women) and Gayta (for guys), the come-asyou-are Nicho Bears & Bar, the stand-andmodel Papi Fun, and the large and quite scene-y nightclub Lipstick – but there are many other fun options. Also check out the Thursday-night party at Chapultepec 420, on the border between Zona Rosa and Roma. HISTORIC HOMES Two more charming and fascinating neighborhoods adjoining each other are San Angel and Coyoacan – you can reach the latter by Metro or by cab (about $10-$15 from Polanco or downtown). San Angel is anchored by Plaza de San Jacinto, with its famed Saturday art market and many fashionable restaurants. From here it’s another
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short cab ride to the former home and studio of Diego Rivera, now a museum. In Coyoacan, take a tour of La Casa Azul, the rambling and beautifully restored home of Bisexual artist Frida Kahlo and now a fantastic museum. A short walk from here is the eerily well-preserved Leon Trotsky House, where the larger-than-life Russian revolutionary lived in exile until he was assassinated – in this very house – in 1940. Walk a few blocks south of Museo Frida Kahlo into the colonial center of Coyoacan, stopping by the Mercado (a bustling market where you can nosh on delicious and inexpensive tostadas topped with ceviche, octopus, and shrimp), and continuing to the town square, which is rife with charming bars, shops, and cafes.
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ACCOMMODATIONS Polanco is the city’s top address for highend hotels, especially along Campos Eliseos, where you’re steps from the greenery of Chapultepec Park and the dozens of swanky restaurants and designer shops in the neighborhood. Here you’ll find the celeb-frequented W Mexico City (starwoodhotels. com), a striking 26-story tower with several trendy bars, a mod steak-and-seafood house called Solea, and an alluring spa and fitness center. Playfully contemporary rooms have huge walk-in showers with jet showers, and – provocatively – hammocks. A few doors away, the Gay-friendly brand Hyatt has entered the Mexico City market, see mexico city page 18
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, Arizona dreamin Have fun in the sun in Phoenix and Tempe
by Albert Rodriguez SGN Travel Writer
rooms. On the thirdfloor roof, you’ll find an outdoor pool with terrace and the Lustre Bar. The main level is highlighted by the Palomar’s “Living Room,” a cozy nook to relax in between meetings or activities. Blue Hound Kitchen and Cocktails, also on the lobby floor, woos its share of young Gay men for happy hour, and some of them stay for dinner in the polished, high-ceilinged restaurant. From the cocktail menu, I suggest the Thunder Gun Express, an original concoction of crème de cacao, Carpano Antica, Clément Première Canne, coconut chai teainfused rum, and lime.
ACCOMMODATIONS Nearing its first anniversary, Hotel Palomar Phoenix (www.hotelpalomarphoenix.com) has already welcomed two enormous Gay icons, Madonna and Lady DINING AND DRINKING Gaga. Part of the Kimpton Hotels brand, a A 10-minute walk from Hotel Palomar longtime LGBT ally, it’s overwhelmingly favored by Gay travelers. Major sports is Angel’s Trumpet Ale House (www.anarenas and playfields, doubling as concert gelstrumpetalehouse.com), which features venues, are literally footsteps from the dozens of microbrews on tap and mouthwatering burgers, sandwiches, and personalsize pizzas. Across the street is the aptly named FilmBar (www.thefilmbarphx.
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District (www.rooseveltrow.org) for good finds. This community of artists, upstart chefs, and boutique owners has revitalized a district that once blended forgettably into downtown. The Phoenix Art Museum (www.phxart.org) has four levels of works stretching from the Baroque and Renaissance periods to colonial America and pieces from Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. It also features a costume exhibit by one of only two museum fashion curators in the entire country. For shoppers, CityScape (www.cityscapephoenix.com) is a downtown multi-block development with stores galore to flex that new credit card, and plenty of eateries and bars to slide into for a pit stop. UPCOMING EVENTS Phoenix Pride is scheduled for April 6 and 7 at Steele Indian School Park with parade, festival, and a weekend packed with fun activities. For more information, go to www.phoenixpride.org. Ballet in a garden? That’s right. TOPIA is a modern ballet taking place in the great outdoors at the Desert Botanical Garden with a backdrop of the Papago Buttes. Visit www.dbg.org for information. And the Musical Instrument Museum has a number of concerts on its calendar this spring, including Colin Hay on April 2 and 3, Molly Ringwald on April 24, and Bela Fleck on May 15. Check out www.mim. org for a complete event listing. Tim Trumble
PHOENIX Phoenix is a huge city, spread out like a giant flatbread. Recent developments and new businesses have changed the dynamics of the downtown area, making it a desirable stopping ground for winers, diners, shoppers, and clubgoers. A little exploring into Phoenix’s individual neighborhoods might also give way to more authentic eateries and vintage bars. Go to www.visitphoenix.com for trip ideas.
com), essentially a mini-movie theater inside a dimly lit, sexy lounge that’s also an art gallery. Obscure films are the norm at FilmBar’s screenings, but occasionally it presents something familiar, like weekly showings of The Walking Dead. If you can find it, Lux Central (www.luxcoffee.com) is worth the taxi ride. This sought-after coffee shop-turned-lounge is a hit with the skinny-jeans set, indie music peeps, and students deep in their homework. Cocktails are made with fresh ingredients and the vibe is cool and upbeat, while the overhead tunes range from electronica to Americana. Wind down at the Crescent Ballroom (www.crescentphx.com), where patrons can drink at the bar or listen to Tim Trumble
Arizona has become a favorite destination for Northwesterners to flock to during the cold months. Besides the obvious – sunshine, warm temps – it boasts one of the most exciting food scenes in the country, plus national landmarks, premier golf courses, and peaceful resorts. The cities of Phoenix and Tempe, conveniently linked by light-rail service (25 minutes, $1.75), have everything you need for a sunny weekend: an abundance of hotels, restaurants, shopping centers, arts and cultural offerings, and for outdoorsy travelers, very close proximity to the mountains and desert biking trails. And though Arizona is definitely a red state, these two urban areas are known to be LGBT-friendly. Flights from Seattle to Phoenix are just over two hours, and light rail is now accessible from Sky Harbor Airport (look for the shuttle that will take you the 44th St./ Washington St. station).
main entrance, as are numerous restaurants, lounges, retail stores, and an extended ASU campus. Of the 242 rooms on 10 floors, some provide incredible views of the cocoacolored mountains in the distance, and each offers generous space and quality amenities, like an exclusive line of Etro bath products. Arizona native John Randall Nelson helped to create unique art pieces for individual
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live entertainment in a small concert space. For a sit-down meal, I recommend Gallo Blanco (www.galloblancocafe.com), a reasonably priced cafe-lounge by noted chef Doug Robson tucked inside the Clarendon Hotel. Hearty portions and flavorful dishes like house-made posole, halibut fish tacos, and all-day breakfast selections make this place a must. THINGS TO DO Besides soaking up the sun, you might want to explore the Roosevelt Row Arts
TEMPE Home of the largest collegiate student body in the nation – Arizona State University – and headquarters of the soon-to-be merged American Airlines/US Airways, the city of Tempe is not as small or as dormant as you might think. Besides yearround sporting events, including baseball spring training games, it welcomes just as many live theater productions as Seattle
Celebrating 40 Years!
and hosts the annual Tempe Festival of the Arts with hundreds of crafts and food stalls along Mill Avenue and several side streets. LGBT visitors can visit www.tempetourism. com/lgbt-travelers for assistance. ACCOMMODATIONS Truth be told, the Courtyard by Marriott Tempe Downtown (www.marriott. com) is a dated property with basic amenities and not much else. But, the reason to anchor your stay here is because of its location. The ASU campus is a 10-minute walk, the usually busy Mill Avenue is two blocks away, and the light-rail station is a short fiveminute stroll. My standard king-size room on the top floor (3rd) was super-comfy and came with all the essentials and a three-person couch with coffee table, plus the added touch of Neutrogena bath products. A private balcony with deck furnishings became the perfect nest for morning coffee and a good book. Property amenities include a small fitness center, outdoor pool, and onsite bistro. One tiny drawback is late-night noise, mainly on the weekends, from partying students.
Mex cuisine reigns supreme in these parts and the recently-opened Canteen Modern Tequila Bar (www.canteentequilabar.com) can’t be avoided, as it’s situated right on Mill Avenue. The food is decent and simple – tacos, tostadas, tortas, enchiladas – but it’s a better spot to drink and people-watch. For an afternoon snack, try an all-natural popsicle at Paletas Betty (www.paletasbetty. com). Seasonal flavors include naranja, pure pina, mango con chile, and coco.
THINGS TO DO The Stray Cat Theatre (straycattheatre. org) is independently owned and presents original, edgy productions, many of them Gay-themed, in an intimate space. Chicks with Dicks, the next project from director Ron May, runs April 19 to May 11. Broadway buffs, or those looking for mainstream fare, can turn their attention to the Frank Gehry-designed ASU Gammage (www. asugammage.com), which brings top plays and musicals to Tempe year-round. Its current season features Memphis, Flashdance: The Musical, and Sister Act. To inhale the desert landscape and a bit of exercise, rent a bike at the Bicycle Cellar (www.thebicycleDINING AND DRINKING cellar.com) on the ASU campus. Reasonable Casey Moore’s Oyster House (casey- rates ($15 for two hours) allows you time to moores.com) has been around for a long explore urban bike trails, as well as those at time – so long that it’s rumored to be haunt- Papago Park. ed. The Irish pub, set up in a house a few blocks from the Marriott, is a popular hangUPCOMING EVENTS out for the locals, who can socialize at its inThe Cactus League’s spring training seadoor and outdoor bars. Oysters are indeed a son has officially ended for 2013, but it’s not star attraction on the vast menu, but you’ll too early for baseball fans to begin planning also come across traditional Irish favorites for next year. Go to www.mlb.com/spring(corned beef and cabbage, fish ’n’ chips), training for details. The Marquee Theatre seafood and meat entrees, pastas, home- is a small music venue that often welcomes made crab cakes, and burgers. An oldie but big talent, such as Green Day (March 11, a goodie, and definitely worth mentioning sold out) and Fall Out Boy (June 11, sold again, is House of Tricks (www.house- out). For upcoming concerts, go to www.lucoftricks.com). It too draws a steady flow of kymanonline.com. Music on Mill happens locals, Gay and straight, business types and each Thursday through late June, providing hipster folks, who enjoy consistently great passersby with free entertainment by local meals – sandwiches, salads, pastas, main en- street artists. Visit www.millavenue.com for trées – in a casual, pleasant ambiance. Tex- more information.
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by Jessica Price SGN Travel Writer
crashing from your private lanai (patio); at night you can see the resort’s mysterious and elegant star attraction – manta rays – feeding in the bay just yards away. The mantas appear nightly, rolling gently in the waves for hours as they feed on plankton attracted to the bright lights of the resort. Combined with the sounds of the ocean, it’s definitely worth requesting a room facing the bay. For dinner, the Sheraton’s much-buzzed about restaurant and rum bar, Rays on the Bay (www.raysonthebay.com), is the best place for people-watching and access to more manta-viewing. The open-air wraparound bar is lit by torches and colorful lanterns, and some tables feature firepits. With nightly Hawaiian music in the air and an extensive selection of local rum at your fingertips, you’ll want to linger awhile. A carefully curated menu emphasizes local farmto-table cuisine with a twist, and Current Events
a hot legislative topic with growing support in the state (A Gallup poll last summer found Hawaii tied with Rhode Island as the most solidly Democratic state in the nation), at this time civil unions are the norm. Licenses and state regulations should be researched beforehand, and booking an incredible honeymoon package at most hotels and resorts is a relatively simple, highly customizable process. The Sheraton, as well as all resorts covered here, features à la carte or fullservice event planning for all couples in some of the most stunning locales in the world. Keauhou means “new beginning,” after all. DAY TWO:
SNORKELING & BREWERY TOUR
Possibly the best money spent on any single Big Island activity was a kayak and snorkel tour with Kona Boys (www. konaboys.com), who boast two thriving locations on the Big Island. The beautiful blue Kona waters are best enjoyed in a kayak or authentic Hawaiian outrigger canoe, and Kona Boys Surf Shop and Beach Shack employ extremely friendly, knowledgeable crews of tour guides that will show even a habitual land-dweller how to reach some paths less traveled out on the water. Plus, if you ask they’ll send you off with personal tips and secrets to the Big Island that you’ll use for the rest of your trip. Our guide led us on a short kayak ride to Kealakekua, a secluded deep-water bay in the shadow of Captain Cook’s monument, where spinner dolphins came so close that it felt as if they were showing off just for our group. Tours include all necessary gear for a halfday of canoeing, kayaking, or snorkeling, and lunch is provided from a great local spot, Island Naturals. Visit the Kona Boys Surf Shop or Beach Shack for information, or reserve a tour online. Purveyors of fine frosty beverages may have noticed that Kona Brewing Company (www.konabrewingco.com) is appearing more and more often on shelves in microbrew-obsessed Seattle. After an afternoon of snorkeling and kayaking, it’s roughly 90 minutes to bustling KailuaKona, where you can stop off for a bite Current Events
during your stay. Research and pre-trip Yelp-scouting showed Enterprise had the best reputation; I found this to be deserved. Of all the distinct versions of paradise The most practical option for traversing the found in the Hawaiian Islands, none offer Big Island is a four-wheel drive vehicle for the wide range of experience or incred- optimal viewing of scenery that lies just ible diversity of the Big Island. Hawai’i (as it is traditionally spelled) is the youngest and largest of the main islands, about the size of Connecticut. The terrain and climate variations from one part of the island to another are almost otherworldly: 10 of the world’s roughly 15 climatic zones can be found here. With this diversity comes an endless opportunity for fine-tuning your stay. Scale snowtopped peaks or stargaze at Mauna Kea, bask in the sun on white or black sand beaches, camp in a tropical rainforest, witness a volcanic crater at close range, or swim with marine life in clear blue waters. Whether you’re looking for a luxurious honeymoon destination or an off-the-map adventure, the Big Island has literally everything under the sun. We break it beyond lava rock-lined roaddown for you in an eight-day, completely ways, as well as for reaching road-tested suggested itinerary taking diversions or beaches that a circular path around the island’s 4,000 can’t be accessed otherwise. For your first night, the square miles. When planning your next trip, think of it as a choose-your-own ad- Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay (www. venture guide to the Big Island. For starters, anyone who’s traveled to sheratonkona.com) is an ideal the islands on Hawaiian Airlines (www. introduction to Big Island hoshawaiianairlines.com) will never want pitality. Recently refreshed to fly with another airline again, to any- with $20 million in renovawhere. The roomy, three-row seating tions, the resort has focused configuration of most flights makes coach with renewed vigor on demore spacious than your average airline. tails and design that infuse Service is noticeably cheerier – undoubt- the grounds with a sense of edly part of the fabled “aloha spirit” the Hawaiian culture and history, islands are known for. Hawaiian also still lending an air of authenticity offers free meal service and complimen- that is rare in larger propertary mai tais – just another added perk to ties. Hawaii’s most unique help the mainland melt away a little faster. characteristic is its sense of place, and the For trip planning information, visit effort is tangible from the moment you round the entrance. Tropical flowers and www.gohawaii.com/bigisland. plants line the lobby and most common areas are open-air, with curved settees and DAY ONE: pillow-strewn lounge chairs inviting guests KEAUHOU BAY From Kona Airport, the first order of to slow down and take a moment to unbusiness will be renting a car if you’re wind. Reasonable oceanfront rooms face planning on seeing as much as you can black lava cliffs where you can watch waves
everything is delectable. Try the “guacamame” (edamame mashed with chili, lime, and tofu) with taro chips as an appetizer, and move on to Hawaiian ahi and avocado poke paired with lumpia (Southeast Asian-style fried spring rolls) and pineapple chili sauce. Last but not least, the Sheraton welcomes honeymoons and celebrations for all couples. Though marriage equality is currently
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paired with a sampler tray of Kona’s finest to illuminate the dark waters. Plankton is brews. Informal tours of the brewery are attracted to the light, and mantas soon apfree – just inquire with the host. pear to feed on the plankton. The mantas are harmless, with large cephalic lobes that DAY THREE: unfurl like scoops for feeding. They glide COFFEE PLANTATION TOUR across the campfire lights and rise to the & NIGHT SNORKEL surface, turning in slow somersaults again A trip to the Big Island wouldn’t be com- and again. If you’re lucky, one will roll close plete without sampling the world-renowned enough to lightly brush against your belly as Kona coffee grown on Hualalai and Mauna you float on the surface. It’s an exhilarating Loa. It’s famous for a reason – it’s distinctly experience. Afterwards, Kamanu helps you smooth and well-rounded, with extremely celebrate your bravery with wine or beer light acidity. Only coffee grown here can and light snacks. The company also offers claim to be “100% Kona Coffee,” and it’s dolphin swims, whale-watching, and sunset serious business to Kona’s growers. The in- cocktail sails. dustry monitors use of this specific phrase and state law requires that packaging idenDAY FOUR: tify the percentage of Kona coffee used VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK in blends. The certified-organic farms of A trip to Volcanoes National Park is a Mountain Thunder Coffee (www.moun- must-do Big Island experience. The southtainthunder.com) are a good place to start eastern drive from Kona takes about 2.5 a full-fledged java exploration. The family- hours and winds through incredible scenowned and operated plantation is nestled ery. You’ll see beds of craggy black lava high on Mount Hualalai (your ears will pop rock, majestic cliffs, tall grasses of a tropias you follow the winding roads from sea cal savanna waving in the breeze, and filevel to the higher elevation). Their passion nally, areas dense with trees and rainforest for coffee matched with a knack for educa- greenery. Upon arriving in the park, the best tion may make you rethink your purchasing way to take in the sheer magnitude of the habits back home. Free basic tours gather volcanoes is not by car (although you can informally around Mountain Thunder’s certainly do it that way) but by bike. Varipicnic tables hourly from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. ous companies offer sightseeing packages, You’ll taste a little of the day’s roast, watch but if you prefer smaller groups to being a short video, and walk around the grounds, herded along with a busload of tourists, where you’ll see thriving plants and learn Bike Volcano (www.bikevolcano.com) is everything about coffee production, from a good fit for riders of any experience. The care and fertilization through to sorting, gentle ride cruises mostly downhill on comroasting, and shipping. Keep in mind you’re fortable mountain bikes with frequent stops visiting a bustling plantation on a busy work and snacks along the way, as well as a deliday – if you’d like to know more, a VIP tour style lunch at the end. A guide leads the way can be reserved that includes lunch, a roast- from the Summit Caldera eruption to the ing lesson, and a half-pound of your own Steam Vents, a lava tube, and multiple craroast. ters. Biking along a mix of roads and paved En route to your next destination there’s trails allows access to sights you wouldn’t plenty to see: the seven coastal miles of see from a car, such as a section of road Ali’i Drive are packed with shopping and now overgrown from when it collapsed in a dining destinations, as well as historical 1982 earthquake. Standing in the middle of sites. The Hulihe’e Palace, built in 1838, a highway surrounded by jutting black rock and the Mokuaikaua Church, erected in formations and cooled swirls of lava is an 1837, are a stone’s throw from shaved-ice unreal feeling. shops, bars, and restaurants. Wrap up your After Bike Volcano’s van has returned day with an unforgettable experience: a sun- both bikes and passengers to home base, set chartered cruise and night snorkel with overnight accommodations in nearby Volmanta rays. Kamanu Charters (www.ka- cano Village are conveniently just a few manu.com) makes nightly runs by catama- minutes away. The charming, Gay-owned ran to Garden Eel Cove, where small groups Hale Ohia Cottages (www.haleohia. witness manta rays and fish feeding in their com) are nestled in lush rainforest – you natural habitat. A night dive may sound might even feel like you’re back in familiar ominous (and it is a little unnerving at first), Washington territory as the sun sets (pack but the experienced crew and neighboring for cooler temperatures after sundown in boats tie together in a large circle, working Volcanoes National Park). The main house safely together to attract the mantas. Divers and individually decorated cottages feature assemble a “campfire,” or circle of lights, electric fireplaces and are quite cozy, akin to on the cove floor and snorkelers float on the renting a cabin or staying at an exotic B&B. surface holding onto boards lit from below Fresh-baked banana bread and tropical fruit
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can be enjoyed outside, or on your lanai in the morning. Dinner options are limited in Volcano Village, but there’s a surprisingly tasty Thai restaurant a short walk from the cottages, aptly named Thai Thai (19-3984 Old Volcano Rd.). DAY FIVE: HILO & KOHALA COAST After checking out of the cottages, you’ll most likely be ready to leave the misty, fernfilled forests and get back to beaches and sun. Stop off in the bustling small town of Hilo for a bite or pack a picnic lunch at Island Naturals (www.islandnaturals.com), a popular local chain a bit like Whole Foods. The drive to the Kohala Coast is packed with hidden sweet spots perfect for exploring or hiking. Deep gulches teeming with fertile vegetation and narrow bridges are around every corner. Breathtaking beaches with palm trees and crashing waves lie just off the main roads, so keep your eyes peeled for tempting diversions. Numerous swimming holes and waterfalls also abound. Popular sights Rainbow Falls and the Botanical Gardens are well worth a visit. The Waipi’o Valley Lookout boasts a cinematic view, but don’t attempt to drive down the 900-foot descent unless you have an SUV and nerves of steel. The extreme in-
cline is dangerous. Another worthwhile stop is scenic Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park, marked by an unobtrusive sign on the Belt Road (Hwy 19). Wind down narrow Laupahoehoe Point Road for about a mile, past a small group of rustic residences, until you come upon a small gravel lot with nothing but deep blue ocean ahead. The spray and waves violently slamming against the rocks here is unforgettable. Nearby you’ll find a peaceful grassy park with incredibly high coconut palms waving in the breeze. The quiet solemnity hints at a tragic past: in 1946, a tsunami killed 24 schoolchildren and adults where a small village once stood. Since the tragedy, the village was relocated and a rock bearing the names of the victims now serves as a memorial. It’s hard to believe anything so tragic could take place in such a paradise. Before checking into your next resort destination back in Kailua-Kona, be sure to stop off for a swim at Hapuna Beach. With loping golden sands, clear water, and excellent swimming conditions, Hapuna is consistently chosen as one of the top five beaches in the world.
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Uniqueness of place
For one boutique Washington winemaker, it’s all about the land
Gary Cox
by David Hirning Special to the SGN
Northwest art and fine craft show. The festival – which showcases the work of more than 140 artists along with local food, wine, Considering the subject, it’s no surprise beer, and cider – will take place March 23that when winemakers need a word that cap- 24 at Smith Cove Cruise Terminal on Setures how the land itself influences the fruits attle’s Pier 91. of their labor, they turn to French: terroir. According to the online glossary of the DRINK LOCAL publication Wine Spectator, the word alMarch is Washington Wine Month, and ludes to “the interaction of soil, climate, Best of the Northwest gets into the spirit topography, and grape variety in a specific by featuring small, boutique wineries that site, imprinting the wine and making each truly represent the local connection that wine from a specific site distinct.” this growing industry embodies. There are Ellensburg vineyard owner and winemak- lots of other wine events, including the gier Gary Cox has a simpler definition of the ant Taste Washington at CenturyLink Field word: “uniqueness of place.” Event Center, but most lack the personal It is in celebration of that uniqueness that touch. And tickets to BON are also much Cox and eight other family-owned Wash- more reasonable ($7 per day, versus $80 for ington wineries will serve their handcraft- Taste Washington). ed products at the Spring 2013 Best of the Cox, who owns and operates both Cox
Celebrate the grape in California’s fabled wine country by James Whitely SGN Staff Writer Out in the Vineyard (OITV), a California wine country travel company that caters to LGBT travelers, is gearing up for its 2013 “Gay Wine Weekend” in Sonoma County, California, about 45 minutes north of San Francisco. The luxurious weekend of winerelated events runs from Friday, June 14, through Sunday, June 16, and is designed for discerning Gay travelers and their friends. Helping each vacationer plan their weekend is OITV’s Mark Vogler and Gary Saperstein, two locals with a wealth of knowledge and experience. OITV offers wine receptions, vineyard tours, dinners with winemakers featuring various international cuisines paired with Sonoma wines, exclusive tours and tastings at wineries in the Mayacamas Mountains, and much more. OITV also offers more informal options in addition to its wine events, such as pool parties, vineyard dance parties, and no-host-bar after-parties. Participants in OITV events include Peju Winery, Lasseter Family Winery, Sebastiani Vineyards, Enkidu Wines, Petroni Winery, Eric Ross Winery, Artesa Vineyards, Etude, Ceja Vineyards, the world-
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SEEING THE COUGAR Later Cox moved to California and worked in the defense industry, but layoffs in the late 1990s hastened his plans to move back to his roots, so to speak. That’s when he and his wife, Suzy, found the property that would become Cox Canyon Vineyards in the rolling hills just south of Ellensburg. Cox, a past president of the Yakima Cougar Club (a WSU booster group), said he knew it was the right place when he noticed how the hills above the property formed the outline of a cougar’s face. After a decade growing grapes for other Washington wineries, Cox took the plunge and opened his own winemaking operation three years ago. “I thought I was going to make money selling the grapes, but I learned that there’s more money to be made in the combination of growing the fruit and making the wine,” he said. The types and taste of the wines he produces – lighter, more fruit-forward, and slightly lower in alcohol – are directly related to the particulars of the land the winery sits on, according to Cox. “We have a cooler site up here in Ellensburg Canyon compared to other parts of the region, so you have to pick your grape [varieties] based on a certain amount of heat units,” he explained. “Some varieties of grapes take more [heat]; some take less. We started with Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Syrah, but we’ve transitioned – now it’s Cab Franc, a little Malbec, and three different clones of Riesling. I think that’s going to be our best grape.”
SEEDING THE FUTURE Cox is not only a part of the current generation of Washington winemakers – responsible for one of the state’s roughly 350 vineyards and 750 wineries – but he’s also helping train the next. For the past seven years, Cox has served as an instructor of Vineyard and Winery Technology at Yakima Valley Community College (YVCC). He sees educational programs like that one, and another based at WSU, as playing an important role in nurturing the unique Washington wine industry (that terroir again). “Years ago, everyone on the West Coast was going to [UC] Davis for their wine program,” Cox noted. “The problem is that California is nothing like Washington – they have a completely different climate. I could see going to UC Davis wasn’t going to do me any good. But teaching at the YVCC viticulture/enology program has been really fulfilling. I’ve learned a lot.” Cox still maintains his “day job” as an environmental compliance officer at Hanford, and as a result of that and his teaching commitments, his winemaking operation remains small, producing only 350 to 400 cases per year. The size of his business is one reason he enjoys doing smaller wine events like Best of the Northwest. “The big shows are fine, but I like these kinds of events,” Cox said. “We’re a small, family-owned business, and the emphasis is on quality of a different kind – small production lots, very hands-on. It’s a lot different from Chateau Ste. Michelle and other places.” ONE-STOP SIPPING In addition to Cox’s Ellensburg Canyon Vista Winery, the Best of the Northwest show will be pouring wines from Bunnell Family Cellars, Frenchman Hills Winery, Michael Florentino Cellars, Queen Anne Winery, Stina’s Cellars, Stomani Cellars & Winery, Willis Hall Winery, and Wilridge Winery. The spring 2013 Best of the Northwest art and fine craft show will run from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday, March 23, and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday, March 24. Tickets are $6 online and $7 at the event (wine, other beverages, and food will be available for purchase a la carte at the show). For more information and to purchase tickets online, go to www.nwartalliance.com/bestnw/. out in the vineyard
A Gay Wine Weekend in Sonoma
Canyon Vineyards and Ellensburg Canyon Vista Winery, isn’t just paying lip service to the importance of the physical environment to his business and passion. The 60-year-old holds a master’s degree in agronomy and soils from Washington State University and literally enjoys the dirtiest part of his job. “If I don’t have soil under my fingers, I don’t feel right,” he says. The winemaker/scientist’s connection to the soils of Eastern Washington goes back more than three decades. After finishing his degree at WSU in the late 1970s, Cox was hired on at the Hanford Nuclear Reservation to deal with the problem of radioactive tumbleweeds. He helped lead efforts to replant the land with native grasses that wouldn’t spread the harmful waste around as much.
renowned Joseph Phelps Winery, and many more. COMMUNITY FOCUSED Sonoma-based OITV is a Gay-owned company that aims not only to share its wine community with others, but to give back to it as well. OITV events bring the LGBT community together to gather and socialize and raise funds for many worthy LGBT causes, say officials. Gay Wine Weekend 2013 will fundraise for the Sonoma County AIDS Network, also known as Face to Face (http://f2f.org). OITV has launched a special contest for Seattle travelers. Two winners will each receive a trip for two to Gay Wine Weekend 2013, including round-trip coach tickets on Alaska Airlines from SeaTac to Sonoma, two nights’ accommodations at the Best Western Plus Sonoma Valley Inn, and two VIP party passes to three GWW events. To learn more about OITV and Gay Wine Weekend 2013 as well as the contest, visit www.gaywineweekend.com or call (707) 495-9732. Some of the events during Gay Wine Weekend have very limited registration and fill up quickly, so if you see one that interests you, don’t hesitate!
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hawaii
continued from page 11 DAY SIX: A SEAHORSE FARM & A FIVE-STAR RESORT The Big Island is home to the Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm at NELHA (Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii), founded in 1998 by Craig Schmarr and his wife, marine biologist Carol Cozzi-Schmarr. While managing a shrimp hatchery in Costa Rica, they were given a stray seahorse that had washed up on the beach. As they nursed the delicate creature back to health on shrimp larvae, they became concerned at how endangered the species had become through habitat destruction, overfishing, and harvesting for use in Eastern medicines. Soon after, they moved to the Big Island with the intention of saving the seahorse through captive breeding. Though seahorses raised here can’t be released in Hawai’i due to their high-volume breeding (300 babies a month), certain breeds are sold to saltwater aquarium enthusiasts around the world with proceeds funding conservation. Ocean Rider offers inexpensive tours on which you’ll see the frisky creatures at different stages of their life cycle. Visitors can even have a tiny “mustang “curl around a finger (www. oceanrider.com). If luxury is what you seek in a stay on the Big Island, the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu (www. fourseasons.com/hualalai) is easily one of the most stunning destinations in the world. The property is an oasis of tranquility amidst the rocky Kona coast. Huge palms and tropical plants flourish in every direction along sprawling, perfectly manicured emerald-green lawns. Excellence and hospitality are so routinely practiced here that the efforts behind every aspect of your stay seem all but invisible. You will be greeted at the end of the winding driveway by attendants anticipating your arrival. Check-in is completed informally as you’re invited to sit on a chaise in the beautiful open-air lobby (as you sip your mai tai and enjoy a cool washcloth and fresh flowers, you may not even realize you’re checking in). Gracious, gold-standard hospitality is the Four Seasons’ trademark, and on the Big Island you’ll find it at its most exemplary. Elegant guest bungalows are nestled along pathways like miniature private communities. Furnished outdoor lanais and granite bathrooms with deep soaking tubs and glass showers are complemented by gleaming dark wood. Ground-level rooms are appointed with outdoor garden showers. Particularly noteworthy are the seven pools, many featuring “infinity edges” blending with the oceanic horizon. The King’s Pond is a freshwater pool with thousands of tropical fish and a spotted eagle ray that guests may help feed, or borrow snorkeling equipment for a swim. Daybeds and chaise lounges line the pools, and everywhere the scent of gardenia and hibiscus is lightly on the breeze. State-of-the-art spa and fitness centers are at your fingertips, as well as a world-renowned golf course and tennis courts. All manner of activities can be arranged with the concierge: you simply have to choose between makai (ocean), mauka (mountain), ‘aina (earth), or hōkū (stars). The resort houses three restaurants and two oceanside lounges. Reservations are recommended for ’Ulu Ocean Grill, the most outstanding of the lot. Though ’Ulu is a five-star establishment, you’ll find that like the resort itself, care is taken to make your dining experience fine but casual enough to be fun. Executive Chef James Babian (a Connecticut transplant) is only too pleased to chat enthusiastically about his “Regional, Seasonal, Artisanal (RSA)” approach: 75% or more of the restaurant’s menu features local sustainable ingredients. ’Ulu, he explained, is the name of the Hawaiian breadfruit. The Kekela Farms roast-
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ed beet salad with unusual smoked goat cheese comes from a nearby doctor-turnedfarmer, now retired and growing lettuce and raising goats nearby. On Saturdays, Chef Babian visits the farmer’s market and writes the menu from scratch based on what looks freshest. His team works with more than 160 island farmers and fishermen. Such passionate responsibility to Hawaii’s land and sea makes for extraordinary dining. Menu highlights include wood-ovenroasted, wok-fired, or flame-grilled entrees such as Kulana grass-fed tenderloin and miso-glazed Big Island butterfish. DAY SEVEN: KAYAK THROUGH HISTORY The charming North Kohala towns of Hawi and Kapa’au, formerly based around sugarcane, are now filled with artists and artisans. Tourists come to this part of the coast mainly for the views: rolling grasses ideal for horseback riding, the Kauhola Point Lighthouse, and popular diversions such as ziplines or ATV tours. Kayaking is available in an unusual location – the Kohala Ditch. Kohala Ditch Adventures (www.kohaladitchadventures.com) is the only company with access to the privately owned land (canal maintenance is paid for in part by tours). You’ll be driven high up in the mountains, then cruise for 2.5 miles of rainforest through a series of tunnels and water flumes. Originally built using picks, shovels, and dynamite by 600 Japanese laborers in 1906, today the ditches remain a vital irrigation source for local ranches and dairy farms. Kohala Ditch Adventures offers two kayak tours per day, as well as ATV tours. For dinner and R&R after paddling through history, stop for dinner at the Gayowned and -operated Lava Lava Beach Club (www.lavalavabeachclub.com), not far from the Four Seasons back on the Kona coast. Entrepreneurs and partners Scott Dodd and Eric von Platen Luder (wellknown also for their work with local animal shelters and AIDS charities) opened the open-air restaurant and four guest cottages on 10 acres of beautiful beachfront land. DAY EIGHT: FAREWELL WALK & HAWAIIAN MASSAGE The Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (www.maunalani.com) is a majestic property that sits on large stretches of white sand on the Kohala Coast. The beaches here are excellent, with minimal crowding and plenty of cabanas. Guest suites, each featuring a private lanai, were refreshed in 2010 and many feature panoramic ocean views lined by acres of waving palms. If you’re planning a longer stay, newly renovated bungalows share the resort’s amenities but are fully appointed, stylishly decorated rentals, each featuring a private pool and Jacuzzi. The Mauna Lani features two world-famous golf courses carved from lava fields, and nearby trails are excellent for morning walks before the sun gets too hot. The historic fish ponds at Kalahuipua’a (Na Loko I’a O Kalahuipua’a) are preserved the way ancient Hawaiians used them for fishing. Jogging the winding paths at sunrise, the quiet is only broken by the occasional fish jumping. Another famous feature is the Mauna Lani Spa, which consistently wins awards in travel publications (Conde Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure ranked it among the world’s best for 2012 and 2013). The distinction is definitely earned with a unique list of spa and bath services such as aquatic reflexology, soothing Vichy experiences, volcanic rock soaking tubs, and body wraps in private gardens. Lomi Lomi is the Hawaiian signature massage, characterized by deep, fluid strokes and fragrant tropical oils. A long massage and private bath is a heavenly way to restore your body to blissful balance after a weeklong adventure on the Big Island.
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Seattle Gay News 17
mexico city continued from page 7
furnishings and prints, and all rooms have flatscreen TVs, wi-fi, and high-end bath products. Another good value in Condesa is the quirky and historic Hotel La Casona (hotellacasona.com.mx), a rambling 1923 architectural landmark with 30 rooms done up in colorful antiques as well as modern amenities like flatscreen TVs and safe-deposit boxes. For close proximity to Zona Rosa Gay nightlife, the shiny and glamorous St. Regis Mexico City (starwoodhotels.com) is a great choice, just a few blocks west of the Gay bars along Calle Amberes in a striking skyscraper designed by Cesar Pelli. The 189 warmly furnished rooms and suites are posh and spacious, starting at 538 square feet. Even closer are the Sheraton Maria Isabel Hotel and Towers (starwoodhotels. com), a solid upscale favorite of business travelers with some terrific weekend deals; and the Room Mate Valentina (valentina. room-matehotels.com), a Mexico City outpost of the trendy and Gay-popular Spanish brand with cool, compact rooms, reasonable rates, and a hip design. It’s right on Calle Amberes, steps from Gay clubs, and a substantial breakfast is included in the room rate.
opening the Hyatt Regency (mexicocity.regency.hyatt.com) in spring 2012. Popular with business travelers, the 756-room hotel rises some 45 stories above Polanco, and the views of the city in all directions are spectacular. Marble baths with soft robes and well-designed work desks create a sense of urban sanctuary in the rooms, and amenities include a huge and well-equipped fitness center with a pool and tennis courts, plus several restaurants and bars. The service at the Hyatt is top-notch. Another Polanco favorite with discerning, design-minded travelers is Habita Hotel (hotelhabita.com), a stylishly minimalist, 36-room boutique hotel with a distinctive frosted-glass exterior. In Condesa, few addresses in town offer better access to hip shopping and dining and a more contemporary, clubby vibe than Habita’s sister, the four-story Hotel Condesa DF (www.condesadf.com), an uber-mod lodging set in a 1920s Beaux Art building that’s been given a highly imaginative and sophisticated makeover. Some rooms face the street, others a leafy courtyard. Standard rooms are a bit on the cozy side, but the Andrew Collins is editor-in-chief of Outsleek furniture, plush linens, and smartly designed bathrooms provide plenty of com- Aloha and OutCity. He can be reached at fort. Scenesters flock here to dine on Japa- OutofTown@qsyndicate.com. nese-Mexican cuisine in El Patio restaurant as well as to sip colorful cocktails and nibble on sushi at the fabulous rooftop bar, continued from cover which offers lovely views over the neighborseem unthinkable, but the newly established hood’s verdant canopy. Arty, Gay-owned, and affordable, 777 (www.777.ie) netted surprisingly good Condesa Haus (condesahaus.com) is a five- results. Well-seasoned tostadas, taquitos, room inn that’s in the heart of this lively ceviche, and tortilla soup, accompanied neighborhood. Catering to a mixed Gay- by an array of imported tequilas, were no straight crowd, the dapper inn is decorated laughing matter. Group travelers might with a mix of traditional and contemporary want to take advantage of 777’s “family
dublin
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style” dinners. For a coffee break and afternoon pastry, try local chain Insomnia (www.insomnia.ie). They have multiple locations throughout the city, including a shop across from St. Stephens Green. You must indulge in a pub crawl while in Dublin, where beer is taken almost as serious as football (aka soccer). Instead of meshing with rowdy tourists in the Temple Bar district, head to the iconic O’Donoghue’s (www.odonoghues.ie/bar) for a pint of ale and listen to musicians playing Irish folk tunes in the corner of the usually crammed bar. A half block away is Doheny and Nesbitts (www.dohenyandnesbitts.com), another antiquated neighborhood pub, with more seating and higher ceilings than O’Donoghue’s. The No. 27 Bar and Lounge (www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/dubbr-the-shelbourne), inside the Shelbourne Hotel, is active most nights of the week with a sexy, trendsetting clientele.
(www.thefrontlounge.ie) and Panti Bar (www.pantibar.com). Outhouse (www.outhouse.ie), a gathering center and safe haven, is a vital resource to the LGBT community. Founded in 1996, it organizes various events in three multipurpose areas – the Red Room, Library, and Theatre – as well as providing peer support and outreach to those in need. Guests are invited to hang out during business hours at the Cafe. The International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival (www.gaytheatre.ie) is a two-week celebration of original stage productions, bringing acting troupes from around the world, including the United States, South Africa, Germany, Canada, and Italy. Now in its ninth year, the festival also spotlights many local artists and presents a diverse range of plays, musicals, and one-person acts in seven different theaters. This year’s festivities run May 6-19.
LGBT NIGHTLIFE & EVENTS There’s no recognizable Gay district in Dublin, although the handful of Gay bars are within walking distance of each other. The George (www.thegeorge.ie) is the oldest LGBT establishment in the city, an ample pub with full bar counter and balcony, plus a dance floor that doubles as a drag stage. Local performer Shirley Temple Bar emcees a well-attended Bingo night each Sunday with cash prizes, but you must arrive before 10 p.m. to avoid a cover charge. Down the street is The Dragon (www. facebook.com/dragonbar), a medium-sized dance lounge that attracts 20- and 30-somethings, primarily on weekends. New to the scene is Wilde Bar & Venue (6-8 Wicklow St.), a flashier nightclub with a mixed crowd on Fridays and Saturdays, and a Gay student night on Wednesdays. Two additional places to put on your list are The Front Lounge
EXPLORING & SHOPPING An efficient way to see much of Dublin in a short time span is to ride the Hop-on/ Hop-off Bus Tour (www.dublinsightseeing.ie), which slithers through crowded streets, narrow alleys, and urban communities on a double-decker, open-top bus. The tour includes 24 stops, including Christ Church Cathedral, the Book of Kells (at Trinity College), the Guinness Storehouse, and the Jameson Distillery, to name a few. Tickets can be purchased on board. The Guinness Storehouse (www.guinnessstorehouse.com) is a definite do, even for non-stout lovers. Visitors aren’t allowed into the brewing and fermentation plants situated in the same compound, but you can learn how Guinness rose from a beloved Irish beverage to a global beer giant with self-guided tours that finish with a complimentary drink at the top-floor Gravity
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Bar, where you’ll be treated to panoramic city views. I found the tour informative and interesting, especially with the added splurge of the “Connoisseur Experience,” a side tour that permits you to sample freshly sourced brews and private reserves in a VIP room for 25 euros extra. Christ Church Cathedral (www.christchurchdublin.ie) is one of two medieval cathedrals in Dublin, with construction dating back to 1030. The Cathedral is connected to another visitor attraction called Dublinia, which was a bit of a bore. The Book of Kells (www. tcd.ie/library/bookofkells), an illuminated Latin manuscript of the four Gospels, dating from the seventh century ce, is located on the Trinity College campus. Only two portions of the Book are on display at all times, and included with the exhibit admission is entrance to the Old Library. During warm months, get some exercise or picnic at the 1,750-acre Phoenix Park (www.phoenixpark.ie), home to the Dublin Zoo and the U.S. embassy, aside from bike and running trails, playing fields, tea rooms, and the People’s Flower Gardens. Going to the movies while on vacation might be an unconventional choice for en-
tertainment, but it does bring you in from the cold (or heat) and gives your feet a rest. In Dublin, attending a screening at the Irish Film Institute (www.ifi.ie) provides an opportunity to interact with other moviegoers at its on-site cafe and adjacent restaurant. The IFC shows mostly independent films in intimate theaters and sponsors seminars and special events year-round. The Museum of Archaeology and History (www. museum.ie) was fascinating, and is a good place to learn about Irish heritage. For shoppers, there are deals to be had. Brand name fashionistas will love BrownThomas (www.brownthomas.com), a cross between Barney’s, Nordstrom, and Banana Republic. For vintage and inexpensive used items, I suggest the Saturday-only Ha’penny Indoor Flea Market (35 Lower Liffey St.), while the George St. Arcade (www.georgestreetarcade.com) is recommended for artisan-crafted merchandise. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (www. stephengreens.com), a tri-level mall with an atrium-style glass roof, and Jervis Shopping Centre (www.jervis.ie), a two-floor mini-complex with corporate retailers and a food court, are both worth checking out.
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