Seattle Gay News
Issue 26, Volume 38, June 25, 2010
Travel/Theatre
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The Medit Antibes
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer The French Riviera not only made headlines last month with the Cannes Film Festival, it also
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became a universal tabloid hub when actress Lindsay Lohan lost her passport and high-tailed it back to Los Angeles for a missed court appearance. Lohan reaffirmed, while partying jubilantly on a yacht, that this is where the world’s very spoiled come to play – indeed, with its turquoise beaches, waterfront resorts, bikini- and Speedoclad tourists, charming and rustic towns, Mediterranean cui-
sine, rolling green valleys, and artsy shops, the French Riviera is a sizzling hotspot for those wanting red carpet amenities, regardless of Hollywood clout. The myth about this popular European destination is that it’s ultra-expensive, yet for every luxury hotel and chic restaurant, there are more affordable ones just around the corner. In putting together a trip to the French Riviera, here’s what I suggest adding to your itinerary. see riviera page 22
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Monte Carlo, Monaco
Oregon Cabaret Theatre revives You’re Perfect by Milton W. Hamlin SGN Contributing Writer
The spirited production, once again directed and choreographed by Kevin P. Hill, a Broadway and regional theater veteran, runs through August 30. It’s a fun addition to the OSF schedule and a surefire hit for theater fans looking for a lighter-than-air alternate to some of the more serious fare at OSF. I Love You, You’re Perfect, Now Change ing it the longest revue in off-Broadway is a plot-less revue that, nonetheless, traces (and probably Broadway) history. Two of courtship and relationships over the seven
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courtesy Oregon Shakespeare Theatre
Each year, thousands and thousands of Seattle-area theater fans make the annual journey to the Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF) in Ashland, Oregon. OSF celebrates its 75th anniversary this year with a diverse rotating repertoire. But, as many visitors know – and more and more find out each year – OSF is not the only show in town. Literally up the hill from the Festival’s three theaters, the Oregon Cabaret Theatre (OCT) – the unlikely “little theater that could” in Ashland lore – celebrates its 25th anniversary. For its 25th, OCT offers a mix of revivals of past hits and new shows. Clever programming finds OCT performing on Monday evenings, the dark night for OSF. That wise decision makes OCT a growing attraction for out-of-Ashland visitors, and theater fans are enjoying their first – or 10th – visit to OCT. This summer, I Love You, You’re Perfect, Now Change returns to OCT, I Love You, You’re Perfect, Now Change a revival of one of the theater’s most popular revues of the past decade. The original off-Broadway production ran the four cast members reprise their original ages of man. Various music styles – patter for more than 10 years in New York, mak- roles, and two are making their OCT debuts. songs, country-western laments, a rock anthem, a calypso outing – bring many skits alive with musical numbers. Some minitales are more dialog than song, but the whole show works well with a snappy approach and some great satirical moments. At one point, parents-to-be praise each other: “Thank you for fertilizing my egg, thank you for having a high sperm count.” Another, more poignant moment notes a 30th anniversary. The question is – and the title of the song is the same – “Shouldn’t I Be Less In Love With You?” For that lucky couple, the answer, happily, is “no.” They are even more in love with each other than 30 years before. Courtship in old age is stage center with “I Can Live With That,” part of the “Funerals Are For Dating” sequence that resonates with charm and compassion. Two elderly people meet at a funeral – one of many similar events they each attend every month. They seem totally incompatible until they find similar attractions. Their defenses slowly collapse as they acknowledge that, as the song says, “I Could Live With That.” “A Stud And A Babe” explores stereotypes, “Single Man Drought” finds two women discussing the problems of getting a date (any date...). “Tear Jerk” finds a new couple on an ill-advised first date at the mov-
ies. “I Will Be Loved Tonight” finds a woman happy to have someone (anyone...) love her. “Marriage Tango” reveals the problems of marriage and parenthood, but the enthusiastic couple end their far-too-tired exploits with the revelation, “and we’re gonna have sex tonight.” Ole! “The Lasagna Incident” discusses a mixup in dating philosophy. When she offers to fix his favorite, lasagna, she asks him to bring the “other important element.” “Condoms?” he asks. “Wine!” she declares. They end up a modern happy ending – he will bring both condoms and wine. In one sequence, the man acknowledges that “driving is a test of testosterone.” In “The Waiting Trio,” a woman in a long line for the restroom declares, “I’m a woman and I gotta pee, and I’m pissed.” Undoubtedly, the funniest sequence is “Always A Bridesmaid.” Our heroine acknowledges “I’ve been down the aisle as much as Liz Taylor,” but never as the bride – always the bridesmaid. And she has the dresses – and the dyed-tomatch shoes – to prove it. While all four of the show’s talented cast have outstanding moments, Kymberli Colbourne truly stops the show with this all-out country/western lament. Her truly awful bridesmaid dress – a vision of pink and turquoise ribbons and ruffles – is a comic plus. Kerri Lea Robbins, OCT’s resident costume designer, offers up dozens and dozens of outfits for this snappy revue but the grotesque bridesmaid dress tops the list. (Colbourne is the only cast member with numerous Seattlearea performance credits.) The show was written by Joe DiPeitro, book and lyrics, and Jimmy Roberts, music. DiPeitro just picked up his first Tony Award for his contributions to Memphis, the Broadway musical that Seattle saw half a year before it opened in New York. I Love You, You’re Perfect, Now Change continues through August 30. OCT’s next show is the tap happy Riffin’ And Tappin’, which runs September 8-October 31. Ticket information on all OCT productions is available at (541) 488-8349 or www.oregoncabaret.com. Each show is offered as part of a dinner theater or Sunday brunch combination or as a “show only” event with bar and/ or dessert service. Highly recommended. With OCT celebrating its 25th anniversary, OSF honoring its 75th anniversary (be sure to check out SGN’s coverage of OSF in last week’s issue), the famed Britt Festival opening its summer season in nearby Jacksonville and the ambitious Camelot Theatre, just up the road in Talent, it’s safe to say that theater is alive and well in Ashland.
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June 25, 2010
Seattle Gay News
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by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
albert rodriguez
Japan’s fascinating Kanto region to Tokyo-Narita on Delta and United. I flew the former and enjoyed the nearly 10-hour flight, though the chilled boxed wine in economy was a disappointment. Delta just launched nonstop flights between Seattle and Osaka. Another option, and one you may not be familiar with, is EVA Air. The Taiwanese-based airline flies nonstop between Seattle-Tacoma and Taoyuan international airports with connections to seven Japanese cities, including Nagoya, Sapporo, Fukuoka, Osaka, and of course, Tokyo. EVA allows passengers the flexibility of choosing two different cities for outbound and in-bound flights (i.e. fly into Tokyo, depart from Osaka). Hainan Airlines flies out of Seattle to Beijing, but expect a very long day of travel with overall flight times and connections.
On your first trip to Japan, go to Tokyo and get lost in its exciting, expansive and futuristic world – there’s no other city like it, and you’ll want to go back to discover it all over again. On your second visit to this mystical Asian country, consider the outskirts of Tokyo, known as the Kanto region, which provides an authentic, traditional Japanese experience, from geishas to Buddhist statues, and from sake distilleries to countryside ryokans. The scenery is sumptuous and can be comfortably viewed onboard a tour bus, rental car or train. I recommend JTB for tour packages (www.jtbusa. com), which has a downtown Seattle office. As a whole, Japan isn’t a cheap travel destination, so plan your trip months in advance to save money. Here’s a proposed itinerary OVERNIGHT IN NARITA for your visit to the amazing Kanto region There isn’t much to see and do in the city of Japan. of Narita, but with close proximity to the airport it serves as both a starting point for GETTING THERE your Kanto journey and a place to unwind Seattle is privileged to be a major U.S. after a lengthy flight – remember, you’re in gateway to Asia, with non-stop daily flights a different country and several time zones
Japanese tea ceremony
ahead of your normal schedule, so a good night’s rest is crucial to a prosperous trip. Stay overnight at the Radisson Hotel Narita (www.radisson.com/tokyojp_narita), a Western-style hotel preferred by American businessmen, pilots, and airline crewmembers, and within 15 to 20 minutes of the airport. This 490-room property contains two restaurants and a sports bar, aside from outdoor and inside pools, 24-hour fitness room, and business center (with free hardwired internet access), and tennis courts. Rooms are equipped with basic amenities, so don’t expect flatscreen TVs or fancy coffeemakers. However, the breakfast spreads are amazing – from omelets to fresh fruit to
Japan loves Western pop culture – particularly from the United States – and the downside of this means that its own traditions, such as the art of geisha, are in danger of being dissolved. But in the town of Kisarazu, on a dormant alleyway, visitors come face-toface with geishas and can watch them perform authentic dances, play musical instruments, and even join them for interactive games. A tea ceremony – hot green tea and Japanese sweet cake – usually accompanies any performance, that are given to the public by making reservations directly through the Kisarazu City Tourist Association at kisa-kan@ titan.ocn.ne.jp.
CHINATOWN AND HOTEL NEW GRAND IN YOKOHAMA Yokohama is Japan’s second largest city, accessed through an underwater tunnel called the Tokyo Bay Aqua Line, which has a floating parking area and souvenir shop located at the midway point. An overnight stay at the Hotel New Grand (www.hotel-newgrand.co.jp) is recommended, a historical landmark that has hosted celebrities, war generals, and international royalty – Charlie Chaplin, Babe Ruth, and Japanese writer Jiro Osaragi among them. The hotel is decadent in all corners, from its stunning lobby up to its top-floor restaurant, Saly Weil, where beautiful views of the harbor compliment its elegant Western breakfasts. Yokohama boasts the biggest Chinatown in Japan, due to the city being one of punynari
Buddhist shrine on Nokogiriyama Mountain
warm pastries to Japanese rice, there’s a lot the first foreign trade ports in the late 19th of everything to kick-start your day. century. The best thing to do in Chinatown is eat from the dozens of restaurants and kiNOKOGIRIYAMA MOUNTAIN osks. Beware of young men attempting to IN KYONAN Meaning “sawtooth mountain,” this popu- lure you into porn arcades or people handlar tourist attraction is well worth the drive, ing out menu leaflets; instead, glance at the boat ride from Tokyo Bay, or the combina- window-pasted menus and plastic food settion of train and bus. Home to two daibut- tings at each restaurant and determine your sus (large Buddha), the mountain can be choice based on good intuition. We came climbed by a multitude of stairs or by cable across a buffet-style restaurant and ate like car ($9, round-trip), which on a clear day kings for about 21,000 yen ($21 U.S.), then allows you startling views of Mount Fuji, found a charming – yet, quite smoky – bar Tokyo, and Yokohama. The “peering into that served Asahi on draft. hell” lookout point at the very top is prime for photography buffs, and it’s also where you’ll find a cozy, inexpensive restaurant and small video game parlor. GEISHA PERFORMANCE IN KISARAZU 4
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KIMONO SHOPPING AND BUDDHIST SHRINES IN KAMAKURA Kimonos are still commonly used in Japan at formal ceremonies, such as weddings and national holidays. Unfortunately, like
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geishas, this tradition is also losing its status with younger Japanese women, who instead opt for designer fashion wear and all-white wedding gowns. Traditional kimono stores, like the one we discovered in the quaint city of Kamakura, will custom-make a kimono for you at a cost between $300 and $20,000 – unless you need it for a formal occasion, I suggest purchasing a kimono at a souvenir shop for about $40 to $50. While in Kamakura, visit two awesome sights: TsurugaokaHachimangu Temple, a magnificent shrine on a short hill overlooking the city, and Kotokuin Temple, a giant, breathtaking Buddha statue sculpted in bronze that dates back to the early 13th century. Be sure to rinse your hands before ascending each shrine during your travels, as it is considered a form of respect. OVERNIGHT AT RYOKAN AND RIVER BOAT RIDE IN NAGATORO A ryokan is a traditional inn-style Japanese hotel with communal hot baths, tatami mats, and rice paper sliding doors. We stayed at the Chosei-kan in Nagatoro (info@ choseikan.com), and had an adventure just locating it – once there, it fit every mental image and obsession of the Japan of my dreams. Our night began with a traditional dinner of fried fish, hot pot of boar meat and pork, pickled vegetables, steamed rice, and warm green tea. Then, a vigorous cleansing before dipping into the hot baths – separated male and female – and a good night’s rest in a humble, authentically designed room. Ryokans only serve Japanese breakfasts, so if you’re not used to rice, salmon, butternut squash, and poached eggs in a runny-type custard, I suggest dining elsewhere or waiting until lunch. The next day, board a multiperson canoe and float along the Arakawa River that promises unspoiled scenery at every angle – if traveling during cold months, these wooden rafts are equipped with heaters and blankets, but do bring your winter essentials (hats, gloves, etc.). SAKE TASTING AND SOBA NOODLE MAKING IN CHICHIBU The national drink of Japan is sake, which has found popularity in the U.S. but is relatively expensive. In the busy little city of Chichibu, independently-owned sake breweries are easy to locate and sampling of the product is routine, like wine tastings. While premium sake is available for purchase, check with your airline in regards to exporting it back home. Chichibu is also a destination for food enthusiasts, a place to learn the trade of soba buckwheat noodle making – a 30-minute course for visitors at Komatsuzawa Leisure Farm gives you the techniques of handmaking this staple food item, and then you’re invited to eat it with a rich broth and sprinkling of tempura flakes. Visit www.komatsuzawa.co.jp for more information. STROLL THROUGH KAWAGOE Before departing to Tokyo, my travel companions and I strolled through the castle town of Kawagoe. Of all things, a miracle of espresso-brewed coffee presented itself to us – even Starbucks is rare in these parts. Besides shoebox retail shops selling a variety of tokens from hand-stitched backpacks to fine cutlery, you’ll also come across something very unique to this area: soy sauce Kit Kat bars. How could a trip through such a fascinating region of Japan end more interestingly than with a cup of fresh-brewed espresso and Kit Kat bars flavored with soy sauce?
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June 25, 2010
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Next to Normal soars on Broadway Comes to Seattle in 2011 by Miryam Gordon SGN A&E Writer
cliché story of a deeply psychologically scarred woman whose active psychosis is threatening her life and her family. She sees The Broadway production of Next to and talks to an apparition of her son, who Normal got a huge boost this year with the died 18 years ago. She has “grown” him in Joan Marcus
Brian d’Arcy James and Alice Ripley in Next to Normal
award of the Pulitzer Prize for Drama on May 27, 2010. A Pulitzer for Drama to a musical? Musicals as “fun” entertainment are almost a cliché, but if you look back, many have had darker themes and more complex issues embedded in their stories. However, recently, with musicals like Spring Awakening and Next to Normal, darker issues are getting more front and center. This all comes after winning Tony Awards for Best Score of a Musical and Best Actress (Alice Ripley) in 2009. Next to Normal focuses on the very un-
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her mind so that he is 18 years old. She’s diagnosed as bi-polar. Her second child, a daughter, has usual teenage angst with unusual conflicts about taking care of her mother and wanting to leave altogether. The daughter feels unseen and unsupported, since her mother is so focused on the dead son. Then there is the struggling father who wants everything to be all right but doesn’t have a clue what to do. He helplessly watches his wife struggle and become more and more remote from him. He struggles with
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feelings that he has done something wrong. The songs! The songs are haunting, moving feats of storytelling genius. Full of emotions that all of us can identify with: longing, wanting to have a better life, frustration over not being understood, desiring connection. The Broadway cast of Alice Ripley as Diana, Brian D’Arcy James as Dan, and Jennifer Damiano as daughter Natalie continues through July 18 in New York. They are amazing, deft, and heart-tugging. D’Arcy James just returned to the production in May, after originating the role Off-Broadway, then headlining as Shrek on Broadway. The real-life married couple Marin Mazzie and Jason Danieley will take over the roles of Diana Goodman and her husband, Dan, on July 19. Meghann Fahy, currently understudying the role of the daughter, will take over from Jennifer Damiano, also on July 19. Alice Ripley has committed to headlining the tour, starting in November of 2010. She is an incredible, emotional actress who brings an astringent humor to the role, even with huge frustrations. An intriguing aspect of her performance is her Irish lilt, most readily apparent in her singing. It brings an offbeat flavor into the play that is not in the script. One can hardly take eyes off her when she is onstage, which is a great majority of time. Look forward to her A-list performance in the tour. D’Arcy James is at least Ripley’s equal, though in a quieter role. However, his anguish and his desire to have a normal family life are palpable. Damiano has a sharpness and exactness that go well with her character’s piano-playing obsession. She’s an intelligent, thoughtful, although frustrated teen. Kyle Dean Massey as the dead son is a physically potent presence on stage, though a lot of what he’s called upon to do is watch.
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His songs are often echoes of others, but he has a beautiful voice. Louis Hobson, a local actor transplanted to his first Broadway role as the doctor(s) in the piece, and Adam Chanler-Berat as Natalie’s nerdy stick-to-itdespite-rejection boyfriend fill out the rest of the tiny cast. A raucous rock band that shares its enjoyment of the music with the audience completes the performers. The physical set seems built to unscrew, pack up and go, with its metal tinker toy structure, movable set pieces, projections of patterns onto screens and the band clearly visible on both sides of the three-level metal cubbyhole structure. Recreating the set for a tour, which arrives in Seattle in February of 2011, seems easier than many other Broadway shows might have it. If you’re not going to hurry to Broadway to see the current cast, mark your calendars for February 22 to March 13 at the 5th Avenue Theatre. For more information, go to www.nexttonormal.com. Comments on reviews go to sgncritic@ gmail.com.
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Skamania Lodge is perfect for a Gorge vacation by Scott Rice SGN Contributing Writer
local art scene. There is a small gift shop just off the lobby where you can buy basic needs like chapstick, sunscreen, and a bevy of shirts, caps, and mugs with the Skamania logo. Stevenson is just down the hill on the shores of the Columbia River and you’ll find a small grocery store, a drug store, and a number of quaint local shops in case the gift shop doesn’t have what you need. Skamania Lodge has two restaurants. The
prefer things a bit more civilized, Portland, with its hipster-driven music scene and some of the most innovative eateries in the country, awaits at the western end. The Skamania Lodge in Stevenson, Washington is the perfect home base from which to explore the area. The Lodge lies in the heart of the Gorge, a short, 45-minute drive from Portland to the west and about 30 minutes from Hood River to the east. The Lodge was built in 1993. The project, a public-private partnership involving the Columbia River Gorge Commission, USDA Forest Service, Skamania County, and Grayco Resources, Inc., was intended to create jobs for displaced workers from the lumber industry. The Pacific Northwest Resort offers 254 nicely appointed guest rooms, a 22,000 square foot conference and event center, an 18-hole par 70 golf course, full-service spa, and fitness center which includes an indoor heated swimming pool, dry saunas, and indoor and outdoor whirlpools, tennis, basketball, volleyball, and hiking trails. Original local artwork, ceramics, and petroglyph rubbings depicting the Native American history of the Gorge decorates the lodge. A narrated CD and brochure of the lodge artwork are available to borrow at the front desk and makes for an interesting walking tour with important insights into Native culture, geological history, and the
River Rock is an elegantly casual little pub with a sweet fireplace, a light menu, and the gorgeous gorge views that make the place famous. For something a bit more upscale, the lodge offers up the Cascade Room, a fullservice Northwest style restaurant featuring a wood-fired oven and house specialties that include Potlatch salmon, smoked pork loin, and roast prime rib. The mainly traditional menu also surprises with items like wild Mexican prawn fettuccini and roasted Kabocha pumpkin curry. Just off the lobby on the other side of the 85-foot tall fireplace is the Gorge Room. The Gorge Room is the perfect place to relax with a good book or just sit back with a cup of coffee and watch for osprey. Be sure to check out the beautifully crafted wood kayaks adorning the walls. The 18-hole golf course stretches up the hillside offering more amazing views of the Gorge. The fairways are tight which serves as a leveler for golfers with less distance and more accuracy. The facility features a fullservice golf shop, rental equipment, and a staff of PGA professionals who’ll help keep your balls in the sweet spot. There’s also a driving range, practice bunker, chipping and putting greens, and a seasonal outdoor restaurant. The mild climate of the low elevations means Skamania Lodge offers year-round golfing.
courtesy Skamania lodge
along the Washington/Oregon border. Local mythology has it that the Gorge was the work of Coyote, who fought a great battle The Columbia Gorge (known simply as with the beaver god Wishpoosh. As the two “The Gorge” to the cool kids and locals) is a fought, Coyote backed Wishpoosh steadily breathtaking canyon that stretches 90 miles west as the beaver’s great tail slashed at the
mountains as he fought and carved the river’s passage to the sea. Less romantic sorts believe that a series of catastrophic floods at the end of the last Ice Age cut the steep, lava-layered canyon walls. Regardless, the modern Gorge offers an amazingly diverse list of year-round recreational opportunities. Golfers, anglers, hikers, windboarders, mountain bikers, surfers, white-water rafters, parasailers, and powder hounds will all find plenty to do. And if you
Paradise found in Puerto Vallarta
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Looking across the river at the renown Cuale Paraiso Resturant you'll forget you're just 10 minutes away from Los Muerto's Beach and the Malecon. This sensuous little casa has it all – quiet of the jungle – convienience of the city and all the amenities to go with it.
www.casalindacuale.com or call 360-963-2100
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Road taking a left on FS 90 and a right on FS 25 you’ll reach the Windy Ridge Road turnoff in about another 45 minutes. Windy Ridge Road offers amazing views of the devastation area, Spirit Lake, and the crater itself. The landscape is unforgettable and humbling, and well worth a day trip from the lodge. Be sure to have a full tank of gas if you go; the closest services are Randle to the north on Highway 12. For more information about entry and usage permits and road closures, visit the U.S. Forest Service information Center right in the lobby of Skamania Lodge. If you don’t fancy traveling the back roads of southern Washington, you can always head east on I-84 23 miles to Hood River where you’ll find the Full Sail Brewery.
the lodge. Take Highway 14 along the Columbia to Carson and turn north on the Wind River Highway (aka WA State Highway 30). Just beyond Oldman Pass take a left on Curly Creek Road. Be sure to stop at the McClellan Viewpoint, which offers a lovely view of the southeast side of the mountain. The McClellan Viewpoint is about 50 minutes from the lodge. If you continue north on Curly Creek
The employee-owned independent brewery overlooks the Gorge (again, those views from the pub will kill you) and offers free daily tours starting at 1, 2, 3, and 4 p.m. The 20-minute tours start and end in the Tasting Room and Pub (the Sessions Black Lager is killer). While there’s no minimum, the tour maxes out at 25 so call ahead for large groups.
courtesy Skamania lodge
Surrounding the 175-acre golf course are some terrific hiking trails. The trails are nicely marked and have a mix of leafy seclusion and more of those spectacular views already mentioned. Skamania also offers complimentary mountain bikes for the trails or a quick trip into town. The fitness center, pool, and spa are state of the art and will make leaving the building difficult. Be sure to make an appointment for the spa, as it can be a busy place. A 50-minute session will set you back about a C-note, but it’s worth every penny. The indoor pool is huge and perfect for laps or lounging. There are hot tubs in both dressing rooms, the pool area, and the adjacent patio. I probably don’t need to say it, but all four offer spectacular views. Mt. Saint Helens is a short drive north of
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Get Wet at Watercrest! • Sizzling sauna • Pristine pool • Lovely lake views
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www.watercrestapts.com
June 25, 2010
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Follow the path less followed to a place not forgotten but a world apart
in Sekiu, Washington Surrounded by wilderness trails pristine beaches,
world class fishing, your trip starts here. Enchanting cabins, suites and studios by the sea. Perfect for nature lovers who want spacious comfort in a remote and romantic waterside setting. Check out the Clallam bay/Sekiu Video Tour of a "Real Northwest Adventure" on our website
www.straitsideresort.com 360-963-2100
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proud to Be Different
We are conveniently located on-site at Lifelong AIDS Alliance below the Thrift Store.
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Call us at 206.568.2486
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Buenos Aires, the Latin big apple by Eric Andrews-Katz SGN Contributing Writer
extremely friendly and helpful with suggestions and reservations. Although a little further away from subway stops, nothing is terribly far and the city is easily accessible by a pleasant walk. Food is an essential part of any culture and Buenos Aires is no exception. Meat is an important staple to every meal here, and grills (called parrillas) are as common as coffeehouses in Seattle. Rib eyes, tenderloins, and any other cut of steak are cooked to perfection and will earn its reputation as being some of the “best beef in the world.” eric andrews-katz
The Tesorito B&B (www.tesorito.com. ar) is located in the heart of Palermo. This Buenos Aires has been called the “Paris of Gay-friendly residence boasts extremely South America” for many reasons. The city comfortable surroundings at a very good is laid out to include several green plazas, shopping is abundant (especially for quality leather goods), and restaurants are plentiful. Magnificent works of art can literally be found around the corner, and if dancing is your calling, Argentina is the birthplace of the tango. With the currency exchange in our favor, Buenos Aires is a land waiting to be explored by its Northern neighbors. Getting to Buenos Aires is the largest expense. There are several nonstop flights from the United States, but alas, Seattle is not yet on the list. Once through customs (and paying the entrance fee: U.S. $130), it’s a roller-coaster ride by taxi to wherever you are staying in the city. Cabs are very inexpensive in the country’s capital, but they can also be quite the adventure. Road markings are only there for decoration, and if the cab can squeeze between the two cars in front, they will. Warning: To avoid problems, make sure the meter is on as soon as your cab starts. Casa Rosada The city is broken up into several neighborhoods or barrios, and there is no definitive “Gay section” as the city is very liberal price, and is around the corner from a ma- While meat is the mainstream, pasta is also (Gay marriages have been legalized without jor subway stop. The hosts, Ahmed and Fa- very prevalent for the non-carnivore or for a much protest). The Palermo barrio is per- rina, are knowledgeable and eager to help simple break. To sit alfresco, try La Cabrera haps the largest, being broken into several with directions, suggestions, even making (www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar) for large subdivisions within: Palermo Soho, Paler- reservations for dinner simply by asking. portions and to watch the city come to life in mo Viejo, etc. Great options for shopping, Breakfast included a wide variety of items the Palermo Viejo neighborhood. If you are nightclubs, and restaurants are here, but and was more than anyone could eat. If you feeling a touch of romance, there’s no better they are hardly restricted to this neighbor- want to be closer to the nightlife or higher- spot than El Portrillo (www.elpotrilloweb. hood alone. Hotels and apartment rentals end shopping, try the Palermo Viejo B&B com.ar). Aside from great food and service, are abundant, but I find B&Bs to be more (www.palermoviejobb.com). Set up in a you can enjoy dinner while watching lights comfortable, less expensive, and more per- dormitory style, this comfortable B&B has flickering on and off of the Rio de Plata. sonal if you are not overly familiar with the a relaxed garden appeal. Breakfast is served The Big Apple, like its American counsurroundings. within reasonable hours and the staff was terpart, is a city that never sleeps. Tango is
everywhere and classes are equally accessible. While it is common to see same-sex dance partners, it doesn’t necessarily mean they are Gay. Gay tango lessons are offered daily through La Marshall (www.lamarshall.com.ar), but since the location rotates, check the website for the schedule. Viewing professional tango is a thing of pure sensuality. The dance is very intimate, connecting at the chest as opposed to just the arms and hands. The Rojo Tango Show (www. rojotango.com) is just one of many professional shows offered. This show is hosted at the Faena Hotel on the Rio de Plata. Presented in a red velvet room, the show includes a three-course meal and free-flowing wine/champagne. While this venue is on the higher end of the price scale, the dancers, singers, and musicians are all top-rate and the true beauty of what the tango was, and is, can be easily observed. Art comes in two forms: indoor and outdoor in Buenos Aires. The Malba (www. malba.org.ar) houses an incredible collection by some of Argentina’s master painters along with other Latin artists including Frieda Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Be warned, most museums have little or no English translation, which can make understanding the art more of a challenge. The city plazas (and Botanical Garden) reveal a plethora of statues that celebrate all forms of life in both historical and fanciful ways. It’s an impossibility to go to Buenos Aires and avoid making the Evita connection. So much more than a musical, Eva Duarte de Perón was a powerful (and often misunderstood) woman. Rising from poverty, she became one of the most influential women in the world, with the mention of her name creating political controversy for many years to come. The Casa Rosada (tours offered on weekends) is centrally located in the Plaza de Mayo. The Museo Evita dedicated to her life (www.evitaperon.org/eva_peron_museum.htm) preserves her legacy along with clothes, pictures, film clips and the first Argentine woman’s voting card: #0,000.001. Most of all there is Recoleta Cemetery. This Buenos Aires resting ground houses the country’s elite and the “Familia de Duarte” gravesite has become one of its most often visited plots. Locals and tourists alike put fresh flowers there daily. Many pay homage to Señora Perón and then leave, but exploring the cemetery reveals stunningly cryptic works of art designed as much for eternal rest as for eternal beauty. Buenos Aires is just one part of Argentina. Going outside the city allows entrance to some of the most diverse country in the world. The Northern tropical regions (Iguazú Falls) contrast the Pampas, land of the Gaucho as much as the expert wineries of Mendoza and the country’s Southern tip, the gateway to Antarctica. But those are different stories and different adventures.
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Pride Edition 2010
Buenos Aires side trips
Pride Edition 2010
June 25, 2010
supplied waterproof bag – the boat goes under. This is repeated underneath three of the waterfalls. To say you are getting wet is an Buenos Aires is a thriving city that can understatement, but when the temperature is easily lend itself to every metropolitan de- in the high 80s, it is of little consequence. light. But if you’re more in the mood for a relaxing break from the hustle and bustle of the Latin Big Apple, then take a look north and east of the country’s capital. Iguazú Falls consists of 275 separate waterfalls within the national park. Aside from being declared a World Heritage Site, this beauteous park was also a candidate for the New Seven Wonders of the World. When Eleanor Roosevelt first saw the falls, her response was: “Oh, poor Niagara.” Modern visitors have dubbed it “Niagara on Viagra.” With the main attraction being “Garganta del Diablo” (The Devil’s Throat) – a fall of 269 feet with a 490 by 2,300-foot cataract – these falls serve as a natural boundary between Argentina and Brazil. There is plenty to experience here, so plan on at Iguazu Falls least 2-3 days to explore. Getting to the falls is easy from Buenos Aires by either an extremely comfortable, 19-hour If you’d prefer not to have to think about many others go from there on to the counbus ride, or by a three-hour plane trip. Ac- your vacation, there are many companies try’s capital of Montevideo. Colonia Del Sacramento has been decess to the falls can be gained from either that will help you plan your trip. Carlos Meside, Brazilian or Argentine, with both coun- lia travel agency (www.carlosmelia.com/ clared a World Heritage Site. Dating back tries boasting different attributes. There is Carlos_Melia/Tours_Iguazu_Falls.html) to 1680, the town’s history is rich with Pora Visa fee of U.S. $125 to enter Brazil, but is just one that will help you plan your en- tuguese and Spanish influences. Battle after the views are allegedly more panoramic. If tire Iguazú experience (transportation instaying on the Argentine side is your option, cluded) and then some. The Extreme Tour there are more than enough beautiful and is just one of several options. Consisting of breathtaking visuals to be experienced. On a small group, it starts with an open-sided the Argentine side, there are two options for Jeep jungle ride. It leads to a ladder where places to stay: either in the Sheraton Hotel you climb 20 meters (65.5 feet) above the located within the National Park’s bound- tree canopy. After careful harnessing, three aries – allowing for night time views and zip-lines are experienced (one 400m long exploration – or a 15-minute cab ride to the and two 200m long) as you semi-fly above Port of Iguazú, where many different hotel the lush tropical treetops. After another brief options await. Jeep ride, a short walk takes you to the top The falls divide the river into Upper and of a waterfall where your harness is again Lower circuits. A low-speed train transports connected. With a rope guide on either side, people between both pathways as well as you rappel and grapple – more than 40 feet – letting them enjoy the natural beauty all down the thundering water. This is just one around. It is not uncommon to see monkeys, of many options offered in and around the toucans, parakeets, or even black vultures Iguazú Falls National Park. in the treetops. Butterflies in vibrant colors Only South American airlines fly to/from flutter about, presenting the illusion of being Iguazú Falls, and that is the only drawback. in a kaleidoscope. Pathways take people up Most flights of South American origins to the edge, allowing for breathtaking views. are notorious for changing their schedules But viewing the falls and its surroundings is at the last minute. For best peace of mind, only half the fun. Boat rides can be sched- double-check your flight reservations at uled which include a tour from the water most 24 hours prior. For extra reassurance, perspective. Going up close to the power- check again the day of your flight. Don’t be ful falls, the boat pauses for photographic surprised if delays occur. Roll with the flow opportunities. Then – after a warning and of it and just accept it for what it is. There’s
battle caused this pivotal hamlet to change hands frequently, and the architecture of the town’s rebuilding reflects the different styles over the many years. The town is easy to get around (not being very big) and a three-hour exploration is enough to see the major sites. Renting a Vespa or a Jeep will make them that more accessible, as the town’s ancient bullfighting ring is just a little bit out of way. Old-world cafés and small tourist shops intermingle among the museums, lining the coastline of this sleepy piece of colonial history. The Portón de Campo (City Gate) allows entrance to the town to leisurely strolling among flower filled windowboxes lining cobblestone walkways. The ruins of the San Francisco Convent give way to the 100-foothigh lighthouse. Climbing the steep and narrow spiral stairway allows an incredible view of the Rio de Plata, and on a clear day Buenos Aires can be seen across the water. Looking in the other direction, the domes of the Church of the Sacrament can be seen peeking over the tree canopy. And seeing the insides of this beautiful building should be the next stop. There are also several small museums that explore the village history and the two cultures that make up so much of it. While Colonia can easily be seen in an afternoon, staying the night in this rustic town has its charm. The tourist crowds are gone and the streets put on a different sense of enchantment. There are several hotels to choose from and the quaint, quiet place actually boasts a nightlife venue of music and dancing. There are several restaurants to explore and in the morning, the adventure can either be extended to Montevideo or you can make an easy return to Buenos Aires. eric andrews-katz
by Eric Andrews-Katz SGN Contributing Writer
little choice. If a daytrip break from Buenos Aires is what you are looking for, then heading over to Uruguay may be the thing for you. Just take the ferry. The Buquebus (www.buquebus.com) makes the most frequent trips and offers a choice of a leisurely three-hour ride or the one-hour express ($70 U.S.). The first destination is Colonia del Sacramento and
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June 25, 2010
Pride Edition 2010
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June 25, 2010
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June 25, 2010
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June 25, 2010
GETTING THERE This is how uncomplicated it is to get to the French Riviera: two planes. From Seattle, fly nonstop to Paris on Air France (www.airfrance.us) – a favorite of local Francophiles – and upon arrival at Charles de Gaulle Airport nine and a half hours later, connect with the same airline to Nice. Voila! The hour and 15-minute flight from Paris to Nice is eye-popping, with views of the French Alps, and you even get served complimentary beer during this short hop. Beginning July 26, Air France flights from Seattle will have the new “Premium Voyageur” cabin for those who can’t afford business class, but want a slight upgrade from economy. An alternate option, in the event you choose to stay in Paris or don’t want back-to-back flights, is to land in Charles de Gaulles and take the train to Nice, Juanles-Pins or Cannes via Rail Europe (www. raileurope.com) – the journey, also scenic, should take anywhere from four to six hours, depending on the route. Other airlines flying to Europe from Seattle are Lufthansa, British Airways, Icelandair, Delta, United and American. GARDEN BEACH HOTEL AND PICASSO MUSEUM IN ANTIBES/JUAN-LES-PINS From the Nice airport, go directly to Juanles-Pins, a 15-minute drive, and check into the Garden Beach Hotel (www.juanlespinshotel.fr). This 175-room seaside property is steps to one of the French Rivera’s most attractive sandy beaches and convenient to all points of interest in the region. Reasonably sized rooms decorated with hints of art deco include wonderful amenities, such as French-made soaps and lotions, and guests staying in water-side rooms will arise each morning to unobstructed views of the sea
and Cannes. The Garden Beach Hotel’s premier restaurant is Le Grill, and the menu represents what this area is best known for: seafood – the roasted bass filet was melt-inyour mouth. Venture out to the adjoining town of Antibes, known for its citadel crowning which, when climbed to its highest point, offers picture-worthy views of the Alps and light blue sea. Culturists will love the Picasso Museum inside the fortressed part of Antibes, where rare works by the artist and a sculpture garden are displayed – this was also a temporary residence of Picasso, who stayed in this exact chateau in the year 1946. For more information on the Picasso Museum, visit www.antibes-juanlespins.com and click on the “Culture” tab. For a great lunch, a 10-minute walk from the museum brings you to the Cour des Thes (14 Avenue du 24 Aout), an adorable cafe with a feminine-bent ambiance – it felt like something out of a Sex and the City episode, a womenwho-lunch atmosphere with the most delectable warm goat cheese salad and a lemon tart made with fruit picked directly from the owner’s garden. An afternoon promenade along the seaside walkway provides visitors with an outdoor gallery, positioned at various lookout points with organized walking tours every Friday morning (at 10 a.m.) – go to www.antibesjuanlespins.com for more details. The Safranier art studio gives visitors introductory courses on monotype printing, an opportunity to get your hands dirty in a good way, creating an original poster or other crafted item that you can bring home with you from France. At night, be seen at Le Bastion (www.restaurant-bastion.com), a sophisticated and lively jazz club-restaurant with tapas ranging from chicken skewers to cone-shaped quesadillas to charcuterie plates, and may I say that the cocktails, like the “Mojito Girly,” were almost as tasty as the hot bartender.
Pride Edition 2010
PICASSO’S WAR AND PEACE AND JEAN MARAIS GALLERY IN VALLAURIS The city of Vallauris is recognized for its many pottery studios and shops, and for Picasso’s War and Peace inside a castle chapel – it’s a rather complicated work, but definitely worth the time. Of Gay interest, the famous out actor Jean Marais is remembered with a museum of his own – a petite gallery in the city center contains photos and memorabilia of his work, including the films Orphee and Beauty and the Beast. Marais was laid to rest in Vallauris. A good dining option is Le clos Cosette (1 avenue du tapis vert), a fabulously decorated bistro serving French specialties, like a roasted leg of lamb that literally fell off the bone, smothered in a rich gravy. With Gay flags proudly staked outside its front doors, Le clos Cosette is certainly welcome to all. Another recommendation is La bergerie (825 chemin Saint Bernard). HOTEL HERMITAGE AND A $25 CHEESEBURGER IN MONTE CARLO Although Monte Carlo is under the principality of Monaco, its own country and itty bitty dot on the map, the city is part of the French Riviera and attracts millions of tourists each year, some who attend the international sporting event Formula 1 Grand Prix. Surrounded by steep hills, belonging to France and a favorite leap-off point of hanggliders, Monte Carlo has gorgeous scenery to look up and out to. Getting here from Nice is a cinch – just arrive by train or bus – and it doesn’t require any additional customs checkpoints, but be prepared to spend some cash because Monaco, about the size of Seattle’s Capitol Hill district, is very expensive due to taxes in the high teens. Stay at the Hotel Hermitage (www.hotelhermitagemontecarlo.com), a luxury property with top-of-the-line amenities, like Bvlgari bath products and desk-sized flatscreen TVs. Rooms are spacious, beautifully designed in gray-blueish tones and the front desk staff is noticeably attentive. The historic Monte Carlo Resort and Casino, used for scenes in the film Ocean’s Twelve, is a must – even for just a peek – especially the Opera House, situated on the complex. If your lunch budget allows for a $25 cheeseburger, then L’Orange Vert inside the Monte Carlo Hotel & Resort is recommended, and it serves Ben & Jerry ice cream. The highceilinged, veranda-style restaurant is casual and popular with locals and tourists alike. There is no Gay nightlife in Monte Carlo, but there is plenty of sexy eye candy, and of particular interest to them and possibly you is the nightclub Moods, doubling as a live music venue throughout the year. Dress
Pride Edition 2010
code anywhere in Monte Carlo is casual formal, and in some places a sportscoat is mandatory. Before leaving, indulge with a treatment at Les Thermes Marins at the Monte Carlo Spa (en.montecarlospa.com) – the pedicures are bliss. STROLLING THROUGH VENCE AND LE MAS DE PIERRE IN ST. PAUL DE VENCE If your image of rural France is cobblestone streets, boutiques, bistros, tiny cathedrals, and people opening their window shutters at mid-morning, you won’t be disappointed visiting the rustic town of Vence. We arrived just before lunchtime, and the smell of baked bread and the sight of colorful, picked flowers lined the uncrowded streets – it was calm, charming, and antiquated. For lunch or dinner, try La Litote (www.lalitote.com), where a meal of foie gras brulee and stewed lamb, finished with a raspberry crumble cake, instantly became one of the best meals I’ve eaten all year. Not to be mistaken with Vence is St. Paul de Vence, an even smaller town and equally rustic. Little boutiques selling herbs, soaps, greeting cards, scarves, and musical instruments, and various cafes – even one fashioned after an American diner – fill the swerving cobblestone streets. Outside of Paris, this is the place that stole my heart – and that of The Rolling Stones’ Ronnie Wood, who owns a house here. For accommodations, there’s nothing better than Le Mas de Pierre (www.lemasdepierre.com), an immaculate property 20 minutes from the Nice airport and surrounded by lush, rolling hills, remote estates, and small vineyards. Its seclusion and first-class amenities make it a haven for the fabulous and wealthy, like French actor Vincent Cassel and wife Monica Bellucci, and Grammy-nominated artist Mika. If you had to pick a place to spend all that money in your jar, Le Mas de Pierre is it – the gardens and pool area are gorgeously manicured and peaceful, the spa is said to be top-notch, and the lounge and restaurant are both superb.
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