Seattle Gay News
Issue 25, Volume 43, June 19, 2015
Arts, Travel & Wedding
Blue Chairs Beach – photo by Ed Walsh
by Ed Walsh Special to the SGN Puerto Vallarta has long been Mexico’s most popular Gay vacation destination and it is showing no signs of slowing down. The city celebrated Pride (vallartapride.com) last month with a parade and festival. The event is appreciated by business owners during the traditionally slow time of year over the Memorial Day Weekend. Another American holiday coincides with the other big Gay event in Puerto Vallarta. Vallarta Fever (willgorges.com) is held over the Thanksgiving Weekend. But don’t wait for an event to go. If you can travel now through the early fall, you will be greeted with lower hotel rates, smaller crowds, and warmer ocean water. It will also feel more like Mexico, with more Mexican tourists and fewer Americans and Canadians. Summer is the rainy season, but it usually rains in the evenings, so it’s unlikely your day will be rained out. The summer thunderstorms can provide an entertaining dinner show. For the uninitiated, Puerto Vallarta is on Mexico’s west coast, a little over six hours on the shortest connecting flights from Seattle-Tacoma International. It’s about a fourhour drive from Mexico’s second-largest city, Guadalajara. By the way, a new highway between the two cities is set to open in 2017 that will reduce the Guadalajara-Puerto Vallarta drive time to 2-1/2 hours. Mexico City is more than a ten-hour drive away.
The Gayest part of Puerto Vallarta is in an area known as Zona Romantica or the Romantic Zone. It is a neighborhood just south of downtown, on the south side of
older. Don’t rent a car if you are staying in Zona Romantica or downtown. Parking is scarce and you can easily walk between downtown and Zona Romantica and to all
the Cuale River. Some also call it the South Side or the “Old Town,” the latter is a bit of a misnomer because downtown is much
the Gay stuff in the city. There is plenty to do around the clock in Puerto Vallarta. The city has a number
Puerto Vallarta – www.worldalldetails.com
of Gay-focused and mainstream tours that will appeal to every taste and budget. In its 16th year, Diana’s Tours (dianastours.com) runs a day-long Gay and Lesbian cruise on Thursdays (and sometimes on Wednesdays and Fridays depending on demand). The cruise makes a snorkeling stop at the city’s famed Los Arcos, hollowedout rocks through which you can swim and kayak. The cruise also makes a stop at a private beach and a beachside restaurant before coming home. Drinks, snacks and food are included. The Wet and Wild (pvsunsetpartycruise.com) cruise is directed towards Gay men and follows a similar route as Diana’s Tours but is very sexually charged. They announce at the start of the cruise that they expect everyone onboard to get drunk and laid. A big staff of friendly locals work the cruise, work for tips and keep you company if you would rather chat them up than other passengers. Both cruises are a great way to meet fellow travelers and many arrange to meet at other times. Wet and Wild cruises run on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The city’s unofficial Gay beach is the Blue Chairs Beach, it is the section of the Los Muertos public beach that is directly in front of the Blue Chairs Hotel. As long as you order something from the bar or restaurant, you can sit on the blue chairs under an umbrella. The green chairs, right next door, are just as Gay and are serviced by another restaurant. Or you can always lay a towel down on the sand for free. Gay-friendly Vallarta Adventures (vallarta-adventures.com) offers a number of
tours of Puerto Vallarta and beyond. Its Hidden Mexico tour includes a stop at the see puerto vallarta page 23
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Celebrating 41 Years!
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Celebrating 41 Years!
miles of lush rainforest and towering, weathered cliffs hint at a prehistoric time before the islands were inhabited. Though all the islands continue to change geologically (the submerged future island of Lo’ihi is growing even now, 20 miles southeast of Hawai’i) Kaua’i’s age and beauty lend a unique sense of natural wonder and awe. Kaua’i is not usually a first time destination for Hawaiian travelers, as O’ahu and Maui tend to draw more thrill seekers from the West Coast, Australia, and Japan. After exploring those more prominent destinations, seasoned travelers and locals often cite Kaua’i as a favorite. It’s an enchanting land of valleys, mountains, rainforest, and a more relaxed pace of life. Tourists often grow attached to a particular place and return year after year, making Kaua’i a perfect retreat for family or friends.
Kilauea light house – courtesy of Kaua’i Visitors Bureau
by Jessica Price SGN Travel Writer Standing on the north shore of Kaua’i, which rests at slightly more of a distance from the rest of the Hawaiian Islands, it’s easy to fantasize about drifting off into miles and miles of open-ocean towards points unknown. Kaua’i is the northernmost of the Hawaiian chain, nestled closer to the
“forbidden” island of Ni’ihau than to bigger, brawnier neighbors O’ahu, Maui and Hawai’i. Cascading out like rocks skipping over the featureless center of the North Pacific, the islands are tantalizingly remote: the closest major land mass would be California at 2,400 miles, or Japan at roughly 4,000. Kaua’i is also the oldest island, created by a rupture in the earth’s oceanic crust some six million years ago. The 553 square
Hanalei Rainbow – courtesy of Kaua’i Visitors Bureau
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South/East Direct flights are available on Alaska from Seattle to the city of Lihu’e. If you’re renting a vehicle, a four wheel drive is the best choice for getting around Kaua’i or any of the Hawaiian Islands, not only to traverse the sometimes rugged terrain, but to better view the dramatic scenery stretching out before you. (A driving tip: be sure to heed the advice of your favorite guidebook when driving on Kaua’i, as many aspiring explorers have been stranded, gotten stuck, or been partially submerged in heavy rains. If you’re told a certain drive is risky, it probably is). The grandiose Kaua’i Marriott Resort on Kalapaki Beach (3610 Rice St, www. marriotthawaii.com) boasts an idyllic location in the crescent of Kalapaki Bay. It’s an ideal home base for exploring the southern tip of the island including Koloa and Hanapepe (the former seat of government before Lihu’e). Views from the ocean facing rooms overlook the largest single-level pool on the island and the bay in the distance. The beach here is quite swimmable, and the rooms are understatedly modern with eyecatching artwork surpassing the token Hawaiian prints of many resorts. The first “must do” adventure on Kaua’i is exploring the Na Pali Coast. The majestic stretch of 3,000-foot cliffs is as difficult to access as it is unimaginably beautiful. The coastline is only accessible by sea, helicopter, or by trekking along a somewhat strenuous 11 mile trail. The full experience of gliding up the leeward coast via a sailing catamaran gets our vote. Captain Andy’s Sailing Adventures (www.napali. com) offers a half-day package, which includes a sail, onboard barbecue, and time for swimming and snorkeling. On the journey spinner dolphins commonly flank the boat, while sea turtles and other marine life often make appearances. Hot food and cool drinks flow, and the captain and crew take care to point out notable land features and sea caves along the way. The views are nothing short of wondrous. When you reach the outer edge of the coast, the boat anchors and passengers are encouraged to swim or snorkel while lunch is prepared (traditional house-made burgers and vegetarian taro burgers are available and quite tasty.) Pack
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sunscreen, a towel, and a light jacket. The morning sail departs at 8 a.m., check-in is at 7:15 a.m. and muffins and pastries are offered at boarding. Some travelers may experience seasickness; know your limitations before departure, but the sail is for the most part quite gentle. Inland and Points West The second star attraction on Kaua’i is Waimea Canyon. This spectacular 10-mile stretch of gorge measures a mile wide and 3,600 feet deep. Visible layers of ancient lava flows stack one on top of another. The best viewpoint is probably the Waimea Canyon Lookout (watch for the 10-mile marker off of Waimea Canyon Drive), where you’ll catch sunlight breaking through to the deep crevasses of the canyon floor. Multiple tour companies offer expeditions in the area, including guided bus tours with stops along the way. Better still, and as most often seems to be the case on the islands, expeditions that involve exploring nature directly are the most memorable experiences. A gentle downhill bike ride from the canyon’s rim down 12 miles of smooth pavement is offered by Outfitters Kaua’i (2827 Po’ipu Road, www.outfitterskauai.com). The popular adventure company also offers zipline treks, kayaking, and other island experiences. Most travelers make Lihu’e their home base for exploring Waimea Canyon and the island’s mountainous interior, as it’s located just between the southernmost tip of Kaua’i (not far from Waimea Canyon State Park) and the bustling towns of Wailua and Kapa’a. The classic plantation-style Aqua Kaua’i Beach Resort (4331 Kaua’i Beach Drive, www.aquaresorts.com/hotels/aquaKaua’i-beach-resort) offers a relaxed, gimmick-free approach to staying on Kaua’i. Oceanfront rooms overlook four pools, and each guest room features a small patio (or lanai) where you can watch the palms waving and take in live Hawaiian music on a small stage carved into the center of the pool area. Best of all, the resort rests on a long stretch of uninterrupted, walkable beach. You can easily spend several hours wandering from Hanama’ulu Bay or north to Wailua in relative privacy, as most tourists tend to stay closer to the resort. The densely packed sand is ideal for joggers, and you will likely come across only a few fishermen until Lydgate State Beach Park and bustling Wailua, just visible in the distance. Where to eat (without breaking the bank) Seasoned travelers discover that paying for those extra activities and guided tours is money well spent in more ways than one. There’s no better way to learn about Hawaiian history and culture than from those who call the islands home. Locals are friendly and most are excited to share tips on where to go and more importantly, where to eat. It was the bicycle tour guides from Outfitters Kaua’i that suggested some of the best food and drink on Kaua’i. As we drove through Hanapepe on the way to the canyon they suggested several local breweries that see kaua’i page 24
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Queer-friendly tattoo artist offers tips by Christy Brooker Special to the SGN I always felt like an outcast in my youth. I grew up feeling a little different, odd or like I didn’t quite fitting in. Creativity is a great outlet when you have feelings that you don’t understand. It’s a perfect tool to work through them. Art was a natural and seamless process for me and I don’t remember when I started drawing. It’s just always been a part of my life. The more uncomfortable I felt in school the more I turned to art. By my senior year of high school I was spending my lunches in the art room by myself because I felt more at home there than I did out with my peers. One of those days in the art room I decided I wanted to get tattooed and then a light bulb went off! “Hey! I could do that!” The tattoo world is the perfect place for people who feel like outsiders to take it, own it and wear it! We have the great luxury of getting tattooed wherever we want on our bodies and not having to worry about getting fired or not hired. In fact, you may not get hired if you don’t have visible tattoos. The diversity in the tattoo world in Seattle is embraced with open arms. We have the advantage in Seattle of having a huge number of amazingly talented tattooers to choose from and the extra bonus of many queer artists in the area. Every letter of the LGBTQ community is represented among Seattle tattoo artists. I own Damask Tattoo on upper Queen Anne. In our studio we have lesbian, bi and queer artists. I wanted to create a studio
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that just about anyone would feel comfortable in. From chandeliers to private rooms to tea for our clients, we provide a welcoming and accepting environment. In fact several tattoo studios in Seattle are breaking the stereotype of the back alley tattoo parlor and creating beautiful environments with friendly artists. At this point, there is no reason for anyone to feel uncomfortable or unwelcome. If anyone ever makes you feel that way in a tattoo studio, leave. There are plenty of artists in other studios who will not only accept people for who they are but genuinely not even give it a second thought. When looking for a tattoo artist there are a few simple things to keep in mind: YOU SHOULD ALWAYS FEEL COMFORTABLE AND SAFE You should never feel like you’re in any kind of danger or feel judged. Ask about current Washington state licenses. The artist and the studio have to be licensed yearly in our state. Every artist has to have current blood borne pathogens training to get their tattoo artist license. You can ask to see the certificate of training and the license. The license should be hanging up in their tattoo station. If they can’t provide basic proof of education and a state license, it’s time to walk away. If they make you feel self conscious or judged, walk away. Remember, this tattoo will not only hold the meaning that you intended but also the memory of getting it done. It may mean the world to you but if you have a bad experience getting it, you’ll think of that every time you look at it.
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YOU SHOULD BE TREATED LIKE A VALUED CUSTOMER The artist should respond to your initial request in a timely manner and be friendly and welcoming. If they can’t be welcoming then they should at least be honest. If they aren’t interested in the tattoo that you want, it’s best for them to tell you. This honesty is a gift to you. For example, if a chef is a master of sushi and you ask for a creme brulee, I bet that creme brulee is not going to taste as good as it would if you went to a pastry chef. They may both be food but professionals often like to specialize so they can perfect their craft. It’s also a reflection of what is interesting to them. When we love what we’re doing, we create great art. When we’re not really that interested, we create technical images because it’s our job. What would you rather have? That being said, there are some artists who just love to tattoo so pretty much any tattoo is fun for them but if you’re looking for something in a particular style, seek out someone who has that style all over their portfolio. YOU SHOULD LOVE THE ARTIST’S PORTFOLIO Look at their portfolio online before you even contact them. Look at the style rather than the subject matter. If you want a tattoo of a zebra, don’t look for zebras, look for animals done in the style that you want your zebra in. Realistic, painterly, tribal, Japanese style, trash polka. These are all styles of tattooing. Find the style that speaks to you and seek out someone who does that style and shows it often in their portfolio. Then drop them an email with reference to what you want and ask them if they are interested. If they’re not interested, no problem! You can always ask them for a referral if they didn’t already offer one.
TAKE GOOD ADVICE FROM PROFESSIONAL ARTISTS Sometimes tattoo ideas are perfect for application and sometimes they just won’t work in the long run. The pigment spreads a bit over time and that limits the size that tattoos can be done. If your tattooer runs into you in ten years, they still want you to have a great tattoo. That requires that some general rules be followed. They will let you know what needs to be changed and it’s good to accept their advice. If it completely ruins your idea, go get one or two other opinions. Some artists are more skilled than other and some rules just can’t be broken no matter how skilled the artist is. YOU CAN WALK AWAY AT ANY POINT At any point during the tattoo process you can walk away. You may lose your deposit but it’s much better and cheaper in the long run than getting a tattoo that you’re not happy with. If you feel uncomfortable or unsafe at any time, just tell them you’ve changed your mind, let them know that you are aware that you will lose your deposit and leave. If they already started the tattoo, simply offer to pay for the time they have already worked, pay them and leave. The bottom line is that you should have a pleasant experience getting your tattoo. You should feel comfortable and safe. Set up consultations with several artists that you like and see who clicks with you. You’ll know when you meet them that they are the right artist for you.
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Tucson is where sun and culture collide the University of Arizona, accessible to downtown Tucson and several key neighborhoods, including the historic Sam Hughes district, by a quick bike ride, or short hop aboard the Sun Link Streetcar (suntran.com); there are four stations positioned along the campus perimeter. One block east of the school’s athletic fields is the Aloft Tucson University (starwoodhotels.com/alofthotels), opened in 2013 and part of the Starwood Hotels and Resort brand, which includes hundreds of Westin,
and Catalina Mountains in the distance. The bed was comfortable and faced a 42inch LED television, while a window-side work desk with USB charging port and free WiFi were essential for staying connected. The adjoining bathroom was split in half, a floor-to-ceiling glass shower and toilet on one side and a circular sink basin and counter with a square-shaped mirror and minirefrigerator underneath on the other side. Next to that was a wall closet, magazine stand, vault, storage space for shoes and
Tucson sunset – momentmag.com
by Albert Rodriguez SGN Travel Writer There’s more to Arizona than sun and desert, and Tucson proves it. The state’s second largest city, behind Phoenix, is surprisingly diverse, from its arts and cultural offerings to its authentic Mexican and Tex-Mex food scene to its inhabitants, a mix of students, snowbirds, middle-aged professionals, multi-generational Hispanic families, and an active LGBT community. The central area of Tucson is flat and easily navigable, perfect for those who prefer exploring on foot or bike, or perhaps the city’s newly added streetcar service, and the green speckled mountains and foothills surrounding it are great for leisurely hikes
and short road trips. Alaska Airlines (alaskaair.com) flies non-stop to Tucson from Seattle, as does Delta Air Lines (delta.com) seasonally; flight time is approximately 2 hours and 35 minutes. If you’re looking for a destination to conveniently whisk away to for a long weekend, a city that’s cool and arsty with picturesque backdrops and colorful sunsets, and a place where taco stands outnumber coffee shops, then consider going here. For trip-planning ideas, go to visittucson. com. Here’s what I suggest adding to your Tucson itinerary. ACCOMMODATIONS About 42,000 students are enrolled at
Proper – photo by Albert Rodriguez
Sheraton, and W properties, among others, around the world. With 154 rooms on seven floors, this hotel is within footsteps of sporting events, festivals, live entertainment, lectures, and several museums on the UofA campus. Additionally, streetcar sta-
clothes, and a coffee/tea brewing station with complimentary bottled water, coffee, and teas. On-site amenities include a swimming pool, fitness center, WXYZ Bar with inside seating and outdoor patio, bright-col-
Chartered desert tour – Rick Machle/Metropolitan Tucson Convention and Visitors Bureau
Prep & Pastry – photo by Albert Rodriguez
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tions are a few blocks away and can take you downtown, or to other city neighborhoods, if you want to increase your dining and nightlife options. I stayed in a Single King room that felt larger than most single or standard rooms; my windows looked directly to the street
ored lobby with pool table and hard-wire computer stations, and Re:Fuel, a 24-hour market where guests can purchase frozen meals, sandwiches, pastries, snacks, beer, soft drinks, and gourmet coffee. If you’re really hungry, a few fast-food chains see tuscson page 20
Celebrating 41 Years!
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Celebrating 41 Years!
WASHINGTON BLADE BUSINESS
Rufskin’s smooth design Couple fashions success with men’s underwear, swimwear, casual clothing by Mark Lee Washington Blade http://www.washingtonblade.com/2015/ 05/28/rufskins-smooth-design/ The sun-kissed outdoors of Southern California serves as the locale for Rufskin promotional photography. “The crispest lights are in the desert,” explains company co-founder and head designer Hubert Pouches. “I’m happiest surrounded by palm trees.” Pouches personally photographs Rufskin product images at an outdoor studio at the home he shares with his partner of 25 years, Douglas Coats. Co-owner and company president Coats launched the high-profile San Diego-based men’s clothing business with Pouches in 2002. The duo met in the early 1990s in Paris, when Portland native Coats worked as a model at the agency that French-born Pouches owned and operated. Rufskin began with crafting well-cut, form-emphasizing and uniquely styled men’s jeans, an item of surprisingly scarce offering at the time and which Pouches noticed was driving male shoppers to the women’s section of clothing stores. The business quickly expanded into a widely known creator and purveyor of swimwear, underwear, athletic wear and casual clothing items for men. Originating from a garage in San Diego, business growth was rapid, evolving to a globally recognized company respected for its well-crafted wares. A conversation with Pouches quickly reveals his passion for the company’s products and commitment to brand excellence.
Douglas Coats and Hubert Pouches – Courtesy of Douglas Coats
His background as a fashion designer for Parisian labels Bernard Perris and Courrèges, along with a stint while living in Brazil designing for a group that had among its clients Victoria’s Secret and Macy’s, led Pouches to discern a void in men’s fashion. “Our products are very sexy and masculine, but not vulgar,” Pouches points out. “We always have a couple of things for the flashy ones, though, including straight dudes,” he hastens to add, chuckling. “Our best customers are guys who are guys. Men who are confident, yet unafraid to explore their personal style.” The company handles all aspects of design, pattern making, photography, marketing, distribution, and customer service on an in-house basis and employing a staff of a dozen, supplemented by independent contractors. Proudly emphasizing its “Made in
Courtesy of Rufskin
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the USA” ethos, all clothing is fabricated near the firm’s offices located at its flagship store in San Diego. “Our products are crafted and manufactured in San Diego, everything is produced locally. That’s important to us. It allows me to get my hands dirty, so to speak, to see the work being made,” Pouches emphasizes. “Of course, our costs are higher since we manufacture domestically,” notes Pouches, “and we pay taxes that are ridiculous.” “But it’s one of the differences we have – we’re personally involved, we actually oversee and monitor the production and that allows us to guarantee our product quality.” Although Rufskin maintains a retail location and headquarters in the trendy neighborhood of North Park, the company has also experimented with opening and
operating boutiques both in the U.S. and abroad. Over time, Coats and Pouches and their team have discovered it is better to focus on developing and marketing products instead of expanding business with storefront locations. “Retailing is not our focus,” Pouches says, explaining that it makes for better economic and operational sense to partner with retailers and select wholesalers while offering direct online purchasing. “I hated working for a big corporation,” Pouches says. “Why should we adopt that corporate model? The system of business we have allows us to remain spontaneous with our designs and product lines, to be very ‘on the click’ in our inspirations. Our clothes represent who we are, both in business and as people.” “We have gotten to know many of our online customers, in a large retail operation you often don’t. It’s more personal, more organic, more ‘intimo’ as the Italians say,” adds Pouches. Rufskin denim, swimwear, underwear, athletic wear and casual wear fashions are available online at rufskin.com. Mark Lee is a long-time entrepreneur and community business advocate. Follow him on Twitter: @MarkLeeDC. Reach him at OurBusinessMatters@gmail.com. See more at: http://www.washingtonblade.com/2015/05/28/rufskins-smoothdesign/#sthash.4DtiGnpR.dpuf This article first appeared in the Washington Blade on May 28, 2015. © Washington Blade. Reprinted with permission.
Courtesy of Rufskin
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Holland America Alaska tour – www.1stclassholidays.com
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
lodging to dining to on-board activities.
EM BA R K ATION, SA I LI NG THROUGH THE INSIDE PASSAGE The Alaska cruising season runs between May and September, and Holland America is one of several cruise lines that offer multi-day voyages to The Last Frontier from Seattle and Vancouver. Though I reside in Seattle, the dates of my trip coincided better with a Vancouver embarkation, which seemed a bit disorganized during the check-in and check-out processes, mainly because it’s not an actual port, it’s a convention center doubling as a port. Tip: Book your cruise through Seattle because the terminal is specifically designed for cruise ships. Checking in for my cruise involved a four-stage process that was efficient, although my group checked in early, around 10 a.m., beating the swarm of passengers who arrive at the terminal about 1 or 2 p.m. Because I had already checked-in online, filling out required documentation forms and providing a valid credit card for incidentals, I was able to breeze through the process sooner. 11:30 a.m. was the earliest that guests could board the ship and check into their rooms, and if they wished, have a bite to eat or a cocktail at one of the open restaurants and bars. Prior to embarkation, or departure, all passengers were required to attend a safety briefing that detailed what to do in the event of an emergency. Information pertaining to the cruise, amenities, daily activities, and tickets for pre-booked shore excursions are usually placed on your bed upon Holland America Line’s Noordam – photo by Albert Rodriguez check-in, and I recare already announced with rooms avail- ommend reading through these to familiarable for booking now, so visit hollandamer- ize yourself with the ship and cruise itinica.com to get started planning your trip, or erary. You should also receive information call 1 (877) 932-4259 to speak with a reser- on WiFi, which on Holland America and vations agent. many other cruise lines, tends to be exHere are details about my voyage, from pensive; plan on limiting your online time Until a few weeks ago, I was a cruise virgin. That is to say, I’d never been on a cruise before. Now that I’ve finally experienced it, I definitely want to go back and do it all over again. Booked on a 7-day Alaska cruise on Holland America Line, headquartered in Seattle, I boarded my ship with over-stuffed luggage and little expectations. What I learned almost immediately is that all types of people go on cruises – as evidenced on mine – young and old, couples and singles, newlyweds and silver anniversary lovebirds, grandparents and teenagers, Americans and foreigners, straights and Gays. For LGBT travelers, it’s a relaxing, memorable way to spend a honeymoon or anniversary, and it’s perfect for bachelor/bachelorette parties because everyone is together in one place. Birthdays, graduations, and Mother’s or Father’s Day can be celebrated on a cruise as well. But you don’t need a reason or occasion to go on a cruise, just do it because you want to. Rooms are still available for the 2015 Alaska cruising season, running through September, and dates for the 2016 season
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to a mere hour or two each day during the cruise, unless you want to pay through the nose for WiFi access, and because the ship has so many hard-wire computer stations at the cafe, it isn’t necessary to bring your laptop. Once aboard the “Noordam,” a mid-size ship with capacity for 1900-plus guests and over 800 crew members, I checked into my cabin, unpacked all of my belongings, settled in, and let my week-long adventure begin. The trip began and ended in Vancouver with stops in the port towns of Juneau, Skagway, and Ketchikan, plus a photo opportunity at Glacier Bay. Billed as the “Inside Passage” tour, the ship travels between a series of U.S. and Canadian islands, from Northwest British Columbia to Southeastern Alaska; the voyage is widely known to be smooth because fierce winds are blocked on both sides by these island chains. On port days, when the ship docks, it’s not required you disembark the ship, although the vast majority of passengers will do so for pre-booked excursions or to explore the towns independently. We never encountered any high seas, or rough seas, the equivalent of strong turbulence, during our trip, although we did hit strong currents on back-to-back nights that very gently rocked the ship, but not enough even to cause water to spill from a glass; that’s how smooth the entire journey was. Shore excursions, ranging from float plane rides to river rafting to crab feasts, should be booked ahead of your cruise for the best availability; however, you can also make reservations on board.
PJs. My suite also included a private restroom with bath/shower, toilet, sink, medicine cabinet, Elemis bath products, and additional counter space with extra storage underneath the sink. There were little touches here and there that didn’t go unnoticed, such as a basket of daily fresh fruit (replenished as needed), turn-down service with fine chocolates, waffle weave robes for in-room use, and ordinary wash towels that magically transformed into stuffed animals – elephants, monkeys, turtles – thanks to a kind, playful, and hard-working stateroom attendant. DINING/COCKTAILING Your cabin fare includes all meals in the Lido Restaurant, Vista Dining Room, Dive-In at the Terrace Grill, and in-room dining (room service). The Lido Restaurant is an all-you-can-eat buffet, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the ninth deck of the ship; on port days, the hours and food selection may be limited. For breakfast, guests can start the day with madeto-order waffles, omelets, eggs benedict, and crepes, savory or sweet; you’ll find stations for each of these in the morning, besides cafeteria-style counters with eggs (fried, boiled, poached), potatoes, sausage patties and links, bacon, pancakes, French
AC C O M M O DATIONS Choosing a cabin on a cruise is imporVerandah Stateroom – photo by Albert Rodriguez tant because unlike a hotel, where you can switch to another room or a completely toast, and standard toast with condiments different hotel if you’re dissatisfied, it is (butter, preserves, etc.). Aside from this, where you’ll be staying for the duration of fresh fruit, hot and cold cereal, yogurt, cold cuts, cheeses, salmon & lox, and pasthe voyage, in most cases a week. There are rooms to satisfy all travel- tries were available. I was pleased to see ers and every budget with a slight varia- breakfast sandwiches with sausage, fried tion of amenities. I stayed in a Verandah egg, and melted cheese on my first mornStateroom on the Rotterdam Deck (Deck ing at sea, but they disappeared afterwards, 7), and though more compact than a ho- as the chefs want to provide guests with a tel suite, which is typically the case with variety of options. Lunchtime brought precruise ship cabins, it had plenty of space made baguette sandwiches and made-toto sleep, eat, read, unwind, and of course, order sandwiches with standard-cut bread see the sights on my own balcony. Included slices, a made-to-order pasta station, pizza, with my stateroom were a queen size bed carved meat, battered fish, soup du jour, with crisp linens, loveseat with throw pil- an Asian cuisine station with dishes that lows, oval-shaped dining table, vanity, rotated daily by nationality (i.e. Malayflatscreen TV with DVD, mini refrigerator, sian, Thai, Chinese), and a not-so-ordinary and framed art pieces hanging on the walls. salad bar; three different kinds of greens I was especially appreciative of the abun- (mixed, spinach, arugula, etc.), shredded dant storage areas to unpack everything I’d carrots, broccoli florets, celery, red onion, brought with me, including my suitcases, tomatoes, hard-boiled egg, olives, radishes, which included two floor-to-ceiling clos- squash, zucchini, and chopped chicken ets, and a third closet with some space, al- breast, along with multiple salad dressthough lifejackets and a vault took up most ings, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, croutons, of the room, plus two pull-out drawers on and bread rolls. Dinner is a nice spread of either side of my bed for smaller items, meats (steaks, pork chops, chicken, etc.) like books, fashion accessories, socks, and see alaska page 27
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Tucson
continued from page 8 (Taco Bell, Wendy’s, McDonald’s) are either across the street, or within a couple of blocks. For guests with a rental car, parking at the hotel is free. I would definitely stay again at the Aloft Tucson University, mainly for its simple access to everywhere I needed to be, and also because it was modernly stylish yet affordable. RESTAURANTS Whether it’s traditional or nouveau, Mexican cuisine is abundant in Tucson. A good starting point is Seis Kitchen & Catering (seiskitchen.com) at the Mercado San Agustin (mercadosanagustin.com), an artisan market that is situated in the up and coming Menlo Park district at the tail end of the streetcar route. Seis is a food truckturned-casual restaurant offering a variety of house-made specialties that come together using fresh, regionally sourced ingredients. I opted for the Posole, a generous bowl of slow-cooked pinto beans, chunks of chicken, hominy, and a thick, flavorful broth accompanied by chopped onions, pico de gallo, limes, and flour tortillas. Also on Seis’ menu: burritos, tortas, quesadillas, ensaladas, and its signature street tacos. Since you’re already at Mercado San Agustin, grab a dailymade Mexican pastry at La Estrella Bakery (laestrellabakeryincaz. com), which sells a variety of them inexpensively, and then head over to Stella Java (stellajava.com) for fine, craft-roasted coffee (by Presta Coffee Roasters) with table and counter seating, or sit outdoors in the courtyard and spend quality time people-watching. In downtown, where a growing number of eateries and cocktail lounges are sprouting rapidly, you’ll find Proper (propertucson.com). This popular dining spot, at the bustling corner of 5th and Congress, sources nearly all of its meats, produce, cooking oils, tortillas, even coffee and teas, from within Arizona. The space, on the main level of the historic Rialto Building, is spiffy in decor with a backwards L-shaped bar counter, along with booth or small table seating, with nifty light fixtures and exposed beams and fans. But the food is the star, and at Proper everything is standout, which changes seasonally, but usually includes pork, chicken, and seafood entrees, in addition to housemade pastas, stews, and fresh salads. If the olive oil cake is available for dessert, order it without hesitation. Another local favorite, and an absolute go-to in my book, is Prep & Pastry (prepandpastry.com) in the city’s CampbellGrant neighborhood. A busy breakfast and lunch destination, this beloved restaurant is known for its unique spin on morning staples, like its ridiculously yummy S’mores French Toast and an original creation, the “doissant,” marrying two tempting treats, doughnuts and croissants; need I say more? The dining area is a combination of indoor and outdoor patio seating with four-person
20 Seattle Gay News
tables, a long wooden banquette, and a raised counter that peers directly at daily baked pastries just begging to be devoured on the drive home. I adored the coffee cupthemed light fixture by the complimentary coffee station – yes, there’s free caffeine while you wait for a table – and the abundance of windows that allows natural sunlight to seep through. The Pork Belly Breakfast Sandwich, Duck Confit Hash, Carrot Cake French Toast, and Veggie Beni are other dishes on Prep & Pastry’s menu that keep the crowds coming. BARS/COFFEE SHOPS There is no Gay district in Tucson and only two recognized Gay bars, IBT’s (It’s About Time, ibtstucson.com), a dance club in the funky 4th Avenue district, and Venture-N (facebook.com/pages/Venture-N), a leather and bear bar just north of downtown, off Speedway Boulevard. Aside from these, a few Lesbian and Gay-friendly bars show up on the nightlife radar, as do a number of restaurant-lounges by UofA, such as Wilko,
another terrific joint, Sparkroot Coffee Bar + Fare (sparkroot.com). The artisanal coffee is freshly brewed and robust, but they have a hand-picked selection of beer, wine, and hot and cold teas that are served as well. The shop itself is quite attractive with wall murals, matted art pieces, round tables, raised counter with stools, big windows, and an upstairs loft with a loveseat and laptop desks. Sparkroot is a cool place to read, study, surf the net, or just hang out with city peeps. ATTRACTIONS Should you anchor your stay at the Aloft, a 10 to 15 minute stroll from the hotel through the beautiful UofA campus will get you to a pair of historical museums. The Arizona State Museum (statemuseum. arizona.edu), or ASM, has a vast collection of artifacts, from pottery to baskets to photographs that document the earliest ancestors of the American Southwest, Northern Mexico, and its home state, Arizona. Many of these items were acquired from archaeo-
Tucson Desert – photo by Albert Rodriguez
Pasco Kitchen & Lounge, Gentle Ben’s Brewing Company, Frog & Firkin, and 1702 Pizza & Beer (1702az.com), where regional microbrews and ginormous slices of pizza (try the “Mexicali” with chorizo, black olives, garlic, green chiles, and tomatoes) attracts a steady stream of Tucsonans nightly. Back in downtown, the landmark Hotel Congress (hotelcongress.com) is always hopping, from late afternoons to the early morning hours. It’s a watering hole for every type, single students and middle age couples, straights and Gays, beer guzzlers and pretty cocktail sippers, hipsters and average joe schmoes, and anyone else who falls through the cracks. With multiple bars, an outside patio featuring local musical talent, an indoor concert venue that draws national touring acts, and a regular offering of drag shows and LGBT community events, this is where to be and be seen in Tucson. As for coffee shops, besides the aforementioned Stella Java, right in downtown is
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logical excavations, although some were donated to the museum or purchased. Because of its relevance to the area, I do recommend a visit to the ASM. Also on campus is the Flandrau Science Center & Planetarium (flandrau.org), which puts the fun back into fundamental when it comes to learning about our universe, the planet we live on and the ones that exist way out there, by allowing guests to get up close and personal with science. “Exploring Sky Islands” is a current interactive exhibit that focuses on the unique landscapes and varying climates found in the Arizona mountains; I had no idea there were pine forests, lush valleys, and desert basins up in those mountains. The Flandrau FullDome is a state-of-the-art projection system that takes visitors on quick journeys to outer space inside a 360-degree theater; star and laser light shows are designed for all-ages. But even more fascinating is the University of Arizona Mineral Museum, located in the
lower level of the science center, housing one of the largest gem and mineral collections in the entire world. Road trips are strongly recommended when you’re in Tucson, and among them is a 45-minute drive to Saguaro National Park (nps.gov). The indigenous saguaro, an enormous cacti that is iconic to the region, is scattered by the thousands at this desert park, as are other types of cactus, including prickly pear, barrel, and cholla. Also residing in the park is wildlife, from snakes and tarantulas to endangered species, like the Mexican spotted owl and the lesser longnosed bat. Javelinas, foxes, white-tailed deer, and even black bears have been spotted at this designated national park, divided into two districts, each with its own visitor’s center. Do make time to stop by either visitor’s center, as the staff willingly educates the public about the history and layout of the attraction. LGBT EVENTS/RESOURCES “Pride in the Desert” will celebrate its 38th year on Saturday, October 17 at Tucson’s Kino Sports Complex with a community gathering, festival, and live entertainment. The Pride Parade, however, is staged a week before on Saturday, October 10 along 4th Avenue; 45 contingents participated in the 2014 parade, the most ever since it began in 2000. More information is available at tucsonpride.org. The G3 Gay Happy Hour (tucsong3. com) brings together local professionals, although anyone 21+ is welcome, to mingle over drinks at a chosen bar, hotel, or public venue. The monthly mixer just commemorated its 2nd anniversary on June 12 at the Playground in downtown Tucson; the next event is being scheduled for mid-July. The LGBTQ Resource Center (lgbtq. arizona.edu), on the 4th floor (Room 404-O) in the UofA’s Student Union building, was primarily established to provide Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, and Transgender students with a safe, supportive, and inclusive environment, but it also extends its services to faculty, alumni, parents, appointed professionals, and visitors who are looking for a way to integrate into the local community. Aside from partnering with many organizations, which provide everything from support networks to medical and clinical referrals, the center also sponsors events for Coming Out Week, Transgender Awareness Week, and National Day of Silence, and also a Second Chance Prom and Rainbow Graduation for its UofA students. The resource center is open during school days, and it was very helpful to me when I dropped in. At the LGBTQ Resource Center, pick up a copy of the Observer, a weekly Gay newspaper covering Tucson and surrounding areas that is available in print and also online at www.observerweekly.com.
Celebrating 41 Years!
Visit us online www.sgn.org
June 19, 2015
Seattle Gay News 21
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June 19, 2015
Celebrating 41 Years!
puerto vallarta continued from cover
beautiful Gay-founded Vallarta Botanical Gardens (vbgardens.org). The Marietas Eco Discovery tour includes a stop at the worldfamous “Hidden Beach,” a small beach accessible by swimming through a cave. The San Sebastian Del Oeste showcases the charming colonial town of San Sebastian. At 4,500 feet, it is a good way to escape the sea-level heat and humidity. Be sure and take a walk along the Malecon, a beachfront walkway lined with shops, restaurants and nightclubs and dotted with permanent as well as spectacular sand sculptures. NIGHTLIFE All of Puerto Vallarta’s Gay bars and nightclubs are in the Zona Romantica area, so if you stay there, it will be very easy to bar hop on foot. For a good introduction to the city’s Gay nightlife, check out the Gay bar hopping tour (gayvallartabarhopping. com). It is a walking tour given on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights that includes food and drink stops. Puerto Vallarta, like most of Latin America, has a very late-night club scene. Generally, the city’s Gay bars are busy earlier in the evening, until about 1 a.m. Puerto Vallarta’s Gay sauna, Spartacus Spa (spaspartacus.com) is also busy early. Dance clubs don’t attract a crowd until after midnight and stay busy until 4 or 5 a.m. Most of the Gay bars are along Olas Altas and around the intersection of Lazaro Cardenas and Ignacio L. Vallarta. A notable exception is the rooftop bar and restaurant atop the Blue Chairs Hotel, famous for its entertainment at sunset. The city’s three main nightclubs, Paco’s Ranch (facebook.com/pacosranch.pv), CC Slaughters (http://ccslaughterspv.com/), and Club Enter are all within a couple of blocks of each other. There are no Lesbian bars in Puerto Vallarta, but the city’s Gay nightclubs as well as the Lesbian-owned Gay bar, Apaches (facebook.com/apachespuertovallarta), are very women-friendly. For an excellent up-to-date guide and map of Gay Puerto Vallarta’s nightlife check out the guide, GayGuideVallarta.com or pickup a guidebook when you get into town.
Puerto Vallarta’s hidden beach accessible through an underwater cave – www.dailymail.co.uk
friendly. The newest Gay hotel, Piñata PV (facebook.com/PiñataPV), is a modern and upscale boutique hotel that artfully blends minimalist chic with touches of colonial Mexico. The property is perfectly located close to all the Gay stuff in the city, has a pool, spa, is clothing optional and marketed to Gay men. Casa Cupula (casacupula.com) is a Gay and Lesbian boutique luxury hotel and is one of the finest hotels in the city. The newly remodeled hotel includes a gym and full-service spa. Even if you are not staying there, be sure and check out its Taste Restaurant for a romantic dinner in a beautiful, intimate setting. Hotel Mercurio (hotel-mercurio.com) is a great Gay and Lesbian hotel just a halfblock from the very Gay Olas Altas street and just a short walk to the Gay beach. If you are traveling by yourself, the hotel is a great place to meet new friends. The hotel has a delicious breakfast that is included and a poolside happy hour that is open to hotel guests and locals. Mercurio has budget prices without the feel of being in a budget hotel. Vallarta Cora (vallartacora.com) is a HOTELS men-only clothing optional hotel that is Puerto Vallarta has nine predominate- open to the public in the early evening. A lot ly Gay hotels, but most others are Gay- of folks migrate there after the beach for a
drink at the hotel’s bar. It has a steam room, beach. The multi-level rooftop bar and resdark room, hot tub and pool and a very taurant offers great views and draws a big cruisy early evening scene. The rooms are crowd at sunset. A beachside restaurant is in
Carmen Porras, owner of El Arrayan restaurant – photo by Ed Walsh
budget-priced. the front of the hotel. The hotel’s concierge The aforementioned high-rise Blue service offers information on tours and atChairs Hotel (bluechairsresort.com) is the tractions. place to be if you want to be right on the Villa David (villadavidpv.com) is the only Gay hotel not in Zona Romantic but it is an easy 10-minute walk away. It is situated on a hillside behind the city’s landmark church and is just steps from downtown and the city’s famed Malecon beachside walkway. The men’s bed and breakfast has a clothing optional pool and has a charming Mexican hacienda theme. EATING OUT The Lesbian-owned El Arrayan (elarrayan.com.mx) deservedly makes it to the top of many Puerto Vallarta best restaurant lists. The downtown eatery is known for its authentic Mexican food. Restaurant owner Carmen Porras, is active in the city’s LGBT community and is part of the Pride steering committee. The Swedes Bar and Restaurant (facebook.com/swedespv) is owned by a Gay Swedish couple and is on a hill overlooking Olas Altas. The restaurant gives diners a taste of Northern Europe in the tropics. Archie’s Wok (archieswok.com) has been going strong for nearly 30 years serving some of the best Asian food just a block from the beach. The Lesbian-owned Apaches Bistro is a perfect place to dine and people-watch along the Gay Olas Altas Street. Frida’s Kitchen (facebook.com/fridas. kitchen) part of the famed Frida’s Gay bar is known for delicious comfort food at bargain prices.
Puerto Vallarta, also known as “Rocky Point” – www.luxurypvallarta.com
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June 19, 2015
Seattle Gay News 23
kaua’i
continued from page 5 turned out to be as remarkable as promised, including Kaua’i Island Brewery & Grill (4350 Wailo Road, Port Allen Marina Center, across from where the Na Pali Coast sail departs). Our guides also tipped us off to Truck Stop Thursday, when some of the best local food trucks gather on Rice Street near Kaua’i Beer Company (4265 Rice Street) for a weekly party. The event has been going strong since December 2013, due in large part to the brewery’s commitment to revitalizing downtown Lihue as well as their passion for local street food. On the island’s East Shore, the neighboring towns of Wailua and Kapa’a are home to many residents of the island and feature numerous restaurants as well as a Safeway (convenient if you’re staying in a vacation rental equipped with a kitchen). Kaua’i Village Shopping Center (4-831 Kuhio Hwy) is
credibly lush North Shore. It’s this green, windswept area that people often think of when describing Kaua’i. Rolling hills and valleys, dense greenery, and numerous waterfalls cascading down the sides of ancient cliffs are picture-perfect images that often inspire lifelong love affairs with the island. It’s the stuff of cinema dreams as well. South Pacific, The Descendants, and Jurassic Park were filmed on Kaua’i. The North Shore feels both wild and incredibly serene, a paradise whose history began long before human inhabitants ever set foot on the naturally beautiful shores. Along the way to Princeville there is no shortage of interesting sights: Na’Aina Kai Botanical Garden, the Kilauea Farmers Market (Thursdays at 4:30 p.m.), Kilauea Lighthouse, and Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge are all worth a stop. The small parking area just before the road turns down toward the lighthouse is a perfect vantage point for viewing dozens of
Hanalei Sunset – courtesy of Kaua’i Visitors Bureau
bedroom villas feature beautiful countertops and dark wood dining tables that seat 6-8. Stainless steel appliances, whirlpool tubs, and private lanais adorn every villa. Those traveling with friends or extended family will find the sense of openness and community ideal here. Prices are surprisingly reasonable at the on-site Princeville Market, where anything from cooking essentials to various marinated skewers can be purchased to take right out to the grills or prepare in your own kitchen. If you want to eat well and be pampered, there’s also Nanea Restaurant and Bar located on the first floor. The Westin is committed to healthy, locally sourced ingredients and features plentiful gluten free and vegan options. If you feel like a change
Hanalei Bridge, the landscape transitions to waving grasses and marshy taro farmlands at the base of misty mountains. Stand-up paddleboarders navigate the narrow river to your right. The town of Hanalei is adorable and lovingly cared for. Popular with guests of the nearby resorts and vacation rentals, it’s also home to a mix of locals, surfers, and retirees. Quaint shops, bars and restaurants create a charming, bohemian main street vibe surrounded by the unimaginable beauty of lush green mountains on all sides. Many outstanding beaches dot the North Shore, including Secret Beach, ‘Anini Beach, Hanalei Bay, and best of all, Ke’e. You’ll want to depart early if you plan on visiting Ke’e, as it attracts large crowds later in the day. To get there from Princev-
Napali Coast – courtesy of Kaua’i Visitors Bureau
also home to a Starbucks and CVS with Papaya’s Natural Foods & Café nestled in the corner. Papaya’s is reminiscent of a miniature Whole Foods, stocked with numerous organic options as well as a fresh salad bar, house made smoothies, and a made to order window. The seared fish tacos with a light cilantro cream sauce are hands down some of the best you’ll have on Kaua’i. The tempeh nori wrap is another standout takeaway
albatrosses perched on the side of a cliff, swooping down for fish. Protected birds and wildlife are plentiful around the refuge’s immediate area and depending on the time of year whales may be seen out at sea. Princeville itself is a verdant oasis as lovely as its name implies. Luxury resorts and vacation rentals abound. Best in show is without a doubt The Westin Princeville Ocean Resort Villas, which combine ele-
Sheraton’s Beach – courtesy of Kaua’i Visitors Bureau
Wailua River Kayakers – courtesy of Kaua’i
dish, or you can refuel at covered tables just outside. A short block or two away is Nani Moon Mead (4-939D Kuhio Hwy, www.nanimoonmead.com), a tasting room and shop where mead, or honey wine, is proudly served. Nani Moon is the only producer of mead in Hawai’I and each variety is handcrafted from local raw honey, fruit, and spices. The taste is hard to describe: think somewhere between a sweet white wine or sparkling, spicy champagne (depending on the variety and season) and you might have an approximate idea. The rotating taps vary, and best of all, Nani Moon ships to the mainland. This is a uniquely delectable treat and a relaxed spot that eco-foodies should take care not to miss. North Shore A visit to Kaua’i would not be complete without a few days spent on the in-
24 Seattle Gay News
ments of resort life with extraordinarily comfortable guest villas featuring all the amenities of home (if home were an impeccably appointed luxury condo). The atmosphere is refreshingly unpretentious and welcoming, while still achieving an ambience of serenity and elegance. The expansive grounds are perched 200 feet above ‘Anini Beach, perfect for catching beautiful sunrises over the Pacific in the morning and barbecues at dusk – on one of the many secluded grills cleaned daily for guests who want to invite friends for an impromptu barbecue. The Westin makes everything incredibly easy, lending new meaning to the feeling of never having to leave the resort. Genuinely friendly staff seem to materialize whenever you wish, or recede pleasantly into the background, so guests can fantasize they’re at home. (Villa ownership is actually possible; just ask for information at the front desk.) Studios and one and two
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of scenery, the Westin and neighboring resort, the St. Regis, offer shuttle service hourly between the two properties, allowing guests to dine or have cocktails at either location and charge back to your room. Although it’s tempting to stay and bask in the natural beauty of the grounds, there are still many nearby excursions to be had. Follow the road through Princeville on to Hanalei and you’ll want to slow down, allowing the easy pace of life there to overtake you. As you cross the old one-lane
ille, pass through Hanalei and follow the road until its very end. Park along the road or in the small parking area near the 10mile marker and hike all the way down to the end of the beach. The walk is worth it. A calm lagoon awaits, ideal for snorkeling or wading out into the water. Just beyond the lagoon the edge of the Na Pali Coast begins, towering high above the ocean. You’ve reached land’s end, where powerful waves crash over the base of not so distant cliffs and azure water sparkles in the distance.
Hanalei Pier – courtesy of Kaua’i Visitors Bureau
Celebrating 41 Years!
Visit us online www.sgn.org
June 19, 2015
Seattle Gay News 25
26 Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2015
Celebrating 41 Years!
alaska
continued from page 14 with accompanying potatoes or rice, fish, sushi, Asian cuisine, made-to-order pasta, pizza, and full salad bar. Did I mention an ice cream station? Yes, you can have it for lunch and dinner, in hard or soft serve form, in a cone or dish, with or without toppings, plus an assortment of other desserts, from just-baked cookies to cheesecake to green tea cupcakes to tiramisu. Dress code for the Lido Restaurant is casual, and guests are welcome to take food back to their cabins, though there is indoor and outdoor seating, too. Coffee, hot and cold tea, fruit juices, and ice water is also complimentary, but soft drinks and wine, beer, or mixed cocktails are an extra charge. Seating is on a first come basis, no reservations required. The Vista Dining Room, on Decks 2 and 3, is a full service restaurant with printed menus, suit and bow tie-wearing waiters, fine dinnerware, and arranged white-sheeted tables in an elegantly designed space with spiral staircase and fresh flowers throughout. Surf and Turf, thick cut steaks, pan-seared halibut, roasted chicken, pastas with house-made sauces, and prime rib, served with rice or potatoes and vegetables, are some of the entrees you’ll see on the menu, fluctuating daily. Signature items, such as Holland America’s French Onion Soup “Les Halles” and Grilled Salmon with Ginger-Cilantro Pesto, are mainstays during the voyage. A terrific selection of starters, from Ketchikan Fisherman’s Chowder to Cheese Tortellini and Vegetable Soup to Mixed Seasonal Greens, kick off the threecourse meal, which also features a lovely assortment of desserts, including ice cream sundaes, angel food cake with fresh berries, and what else, Baked Alaska. All beverages in the Vista Dining Room, from still or sparkling water to coffee, besides wine and beer, are an extra charge. Dress code for the Vista Dining Room is smart casual (slacks or khakis, dress shoes, button-down shirts, sweaters for men) on most nights, but suits, sportcoats, and tuxedos with ties are required for formal nights on the ship, so pack appropriately, or you risk not being seated. Reservations are strongly recommended and can be made in advance of the cruise, or during the voyage in-person, or by phone. 24-Hour In-Room Dining, or room service, is available around the clock with a limited menu, but delivered to your door. It is included with your stay, so do take advantage of it on lazy mornings or postexcursion evenings. Dive-In at the Terrace Grill is situated outdoors on the Lido Deck (Deck 9) and begs to be experienced at least once during your voyage. Beef, chicken, and portabello mushroom burger patties are slapped on the grill as soon as you order them, as are Nathan’s all-beef hot dogs; either can be accompanied by three types of fries: naked (potato), sweet potato, and melted cheese. Each burger, and there a few to choose from, are juicy and layered between brioche buns. Place your order at least 10 to 15 minutes ahead of scheduled eating time, and as you wait, enjoy a routinely offered taco bar adjacent to Dive-In with fajita-style beef, chicken, veggies, shredded cheese, salsas, guacamole, tomatoes, onions, taco shells, and flour tortillas. Pinnacle Grill, on the Lower Promenade Deck (Deck 3) and Canaletto (Deck 9, inside the Lido Restaurant) are specialty restaurants that serve gourmet, multicourse meals in polished dining rooms for an extra charge, normally billed as a flat-fee surcharge (think: prix fixe) for the food, and an additional charge for beverages. Considering the meals – 12 oz New York Strip Steak, Cedar-Planked Halibut with Shrimp Scampi, Grilled Lamb Chops, and Roasted Jidori Chicken with Porcini Mushrooms at Pinnacle Grill, and sump-
tuous Italian favorites at Canaletto (i.e. Spaghetti Bolognese or Pomodoro, Potato Gnocci, Braised Chicken Cacciatore “Al Forno) – the experience is very affordable and definitely should be considered for one of your evenings. Dress code is formal at Pinnacle Grill and smart casual at Canaletto (except formal nights). Reservations are required; however, you can book them on-board, if available. Most items are included with the flat-fee surcharge, while some are an additional charge and will be noted on the menu as such. Once a week, or once per voyage, Pinnacle Grill is switched out for Le Cirque, a replica of the famed New York City dining attraction. Dinnerware, menu logos, wall panels, and framed portraits of the elite who’ve dined at the award-winning, high-end restaurant help re-create the original setting, but most importantly a marvelous menu of Le Cirque’s classic dishes are reinterpreted aboard Holland America, including Lobster Salad “Le Cirque,” Chateaubriand, Wild Burgundy Escargot, Rack of Colorado Lamb, and a splendid Garden Pea Soup that I could’ve eaten all week. Similar to Pinnacle Grill and Canaletto, a surcharge is added to your room, all beverages are additional cost, and some items are subject to an extra charge as well. Dress code is formal, and reservations are required; however, you can book them on-board. Given a special tour of the massive kitchens on board the Noordam, I can assure you that all the food, from appetizers to desserts, even the decorations on the desserts, are prepared on the ship. COCKTAILS/COFFEE Believe it or not, you can actually bar hop on a cruise. On the Noordam, over 10 different bar-lounges are positioned around the ship. The Crow’s Nest, at the Forward, or front, of the Observation Deck (Deck 10) has probably the best views anywhere on the ship, looking directly out to the water and surrounding scenery. The lounge is spacious with a circular bar counter, and leather armchairs and couches pushed close to the windows for sight gazing. The Piano Lounge (Deck 2) is an intimate bar, where the flamboyant host plays a mixture of guilty pleasures from the ‘60s, ‘70s, and ‘80s, inviting everyone to sing along. The Sports Bar, adjacent to the Piano Bar, is... well, a sports bar, though an attractive one with illuminated liquor shelves and cabinets, smooth granite counter, windowside sofas and seating nooks, and multiple flatscreen TVs to catch the NBA Playoffs, Stanley Cup, French Open, or your favorite MLB team in action. Elsewhere, The Pinnacle Bar, next to the Pinnacle Grill, is a cozy drinking spot with counter and small table seating that hosts a daily “LGBT Gathering,” the Ocean Bar is a snazzy lounge with counter seating and cushioned armchairs with windows along the wall to peer out through, the Explorer’s Lounge is luxurious and features afternoon classical music performances, and the Atrium Bar on the Main Deck (Deck 1) with leather-padded stools is curled around a glass staircase leading up to Deck 2. You can also grab drinks and strut your stuff at the Northern Lights nightclub, and for outdoor fun the Lido Bar (Deck 9) is a poolside watering hole with fishtails that double as stools along the counter. My favorite lounge was the B.B. King Blues Club featuring a live band that includes vocalist, guitarists, horn section, and percussionist who perform blues, R&B, funk, and pop-soul; they’ll play everything from Tina Turner to Bruno Mars to Gladys Knight & the Pips during nightly performances (at least two performances per night). The only disappointment in my entire voyage with Holland America was the coffee, a minor thing to complain about, yet still essential to some of us. Throughout the ship, at every restaurant and Explorations
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Cafe, the coffee tasted sour, at times burnt. With Holland America based in Seattle, and with dozens of great coffee roasters in the Emerald City, from Caffe Ladro to Caffe Vita to mainstream giant Starbucks, it’s odd that the cruise line hasn’t partnered with either of them, like Alaska Airlines or Delta Air Lines has, to offer passengers a high quality product; this leaves room for improvement. That said, the Explorations Cafe is an on-board coffee shop with armchairs, reclining chairs, hard wire computer stations, plus an adjoining space with chess/checker tables and a larger table where guests can piece together a puzzle. Tazo teas, bottled water, soft drinks, pastries, and other nibbles are available for purchase at Explorations Cafe, on Deck 3. SPA The Greenhouse Spa and Salon on Deck 9 is a full spa and beauty salon offering a menu of services at reasonable prices – if not equal to land-based spas, then slightly less expensive. You name it, they do it. Massages, exfoliations, facials, haircuts, pedicures, and manicures are all available at the spa, but there’s also acupuncture, bamboo massage, anti-cellulite/firming treatments, reflexology, teeth whitening, scalp massage, waxing, and barbering. Undecided, I took advantage of the “Spa Sampler,” which allowed me to pick between three ($89), four ($99), or five ($119) mini-treatments that were blended together, instead of each done separately. I selected four: Spa Mini Facial, Scalp Massage, Foot Massage, and Neck & Shoulder Massage and felt like a prince during and after my treatment. My therapist, a handsome Frenchman named William, applied good pressure and soothing strokes throughout for an overall relaxing treatment, and he also provided interesting conversation that made the hour-long session more easygoing. It’s recommended that you book spa treatments and services prior to the cruise for the best availability; however, the Greenhouse Spa and Salon usually runs special offers for each voyage, plus a daily special is listed on the back page of the “On Location” brochure, so you might wait until your cruise is underway to make a reservation. ON-BOARD AMENITIES/ ACTIVITIES There’s no shortage of activities to fill your day, at sea or port. If you haven’t eaten enough, Holland America welcomes everybody to a daily tea ceremony in the Vista Dining Room, where guests can sip tea and graze on loaded trays of cookies, cakes, mini scones, and other tempting treats. Each day carries a different theme, including a Cupcake Tea Ceremony with mini cupcakes, savory finger sandwiches, and milkshakes. Movie screenings, shopping presentations, card player meet-ups, single or solo traveler social gatherings, art auctions, raffles, wellness seminars, creative craft classes, trivia games, afternoon strolls, scavenger hunts, and cooking demonstrations are just some of the many ways to pass the time on board the ship at no cost, and for $3 you can attend cocktail samplers, or book a pilates or yoga session for a minimal fee. “Sip & Savor” is a signature Holland America activity that allows guests to experience a culinary presentation with a food tasting and wine pairing for just $4. For those needing to stay in shape, a fitness center at the Forward of Deck 9 is open between 6 a.m. and 9 p.m. daily with treadmills, weight benches, exercise bikes, and other equipment in a carpeted room with windows to look out of. Two outdoor pools and hot tubs are available to all guests. Thermal suites and a hydro pool assist the body with improved blood circulation, relaxation, tension release, and stress reduction, and both are found on Deck 9 as well and can be utilized for an additional
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charge, or as part of a package; some spa treatments include thermal suites and hydro pool limited access. For friendly competition, a basketball court on Deck 11 with amazing views and ping-pong tables on Deck 9 by the pool also help burn calories. At night, definitely check out the bars mentioned in the previous section, including live music at the B.B. King Blues Club, or slip on dancing shoes and head to Northern Lights, or try your luck at the casino that has slot machines, as well as table games. In the Vista Lounge, live entertainment ranging from variety shows to musical or dance-themed productions to crew performances are staged nightly. If staying in for the evening – and it’s your cruise, do whatever you want – you might want to rent a movie through Holland America’s onboard “Ship Flicks” program; over 1000 films and TV series are listed in a booklet in your cabin, so choose what you’d like to watch (maximum of 1 movie rental at a time), call the extension number on the booklet, and it will be hand-delivered to your door. Call again when you’re ready to have it picked up, or leave it on the bed for your stateroom attendant to return it for you. DISEMBARKATION AND FINAL THOUGHTS Our ship arrived back in Vancouver at 7 a.m., which meant an early rise for everyone to prepare for disembarkation. I preordered breakfast the night before, by filling out the form and hanging it outside my door, and it proved to be beneficial because I wouldn’t have had time to finish packing and run upstairs to the Lido Restaurant to grab something at the buffet. It takes about an hour for disembarkation to start and it’s done by pre-assigned grouping, so the first batch of passengers began disembarking at 8 a.m., followed by the second group at about 8:20 a.m., and so on. I wasn’t able to disembark until 9:30 a.m., giving me time to bid farewell to a few fellow passengers and crew members that had contributed to making my trip memorable. Crew members who stay on the ship for the next voyage, such as stateroom attendants, don’t have the luxury of enjoying a day off, so they very quickly clean rooms and prepare them for new guests coming on board, allowed to embark as early as 11:30 a.m. My final bill, for on board expenses, had already been placed in my mail bin (next to the cabin door), so I didn’t have to check out at the front desk on the Main Deck; I was free to just disembark. Inside the Vancouver terminal, it’s a mad house as passengers embarking and disembarking crisscross each other in hopes of finding where they need to be – shuttle line, check-in counters, exit. I took advantage of complimentary motorcoach service offered by Holland America, that transported me from Sea-Tac Airport to the terminal at Canada Place on the waterfront. Guests are conveniently shuttled between the two cities in a chartered motorcoach or bus. I really enjoyed my first ever cruise aboard Holland America. It was extremely relaxing and I slept like a baby, even during afternoon naps that I usually don’t make time for at home. I was most impressed with the food, the amount, the variety, and quality of it; it was fresh, prepared on board, and I kept wanting more, possibly because it was always available. The staff were incredibly warm, helpful, and engaging; I had great conversations with several of them. I was never bored; in fact, I was overwhelmed with the amount of activities provided during the cruise, especially those for solo and LGBT travelers. In a heartbeat, I’d go on another cruise, though probably with my own stash of coffee, and considering Holland America is Seattle-based and LGBT supportive (they’re marching in the Pride Parade), I’d most certainly sail with them again.
Seattle Gay News 27
Ferry me across the river A review of The Boatman by John Burbidge – a memoir of same-sex love by Ashok Row Kavi Special to the SGN Some books make you wonder how easy it is to slip into the past; thinking of journeys done and work accomplished. John Burbidge makes you nostalgic for one simple reason: he drags you back to those claustrophobic days when the closet was too small and the world outside too big to contain your life. I know John as an acquaintance and like many white men (I can think of D.H. Lawrence, Richard Burton and scores of dear friends like Prof. Lawrence Cohen, for example), he “came out” in India. By this I mean he discovered he was gay after a series of adventures that take one’s breath away. And that’s what this book is about. John came to India as a “development person” employed by an NGO that worked for rural development and empowering marginalized groups. In the process, he discovered himself and an India where sex with men was available for the asking. And he seems to have got it everywhere – from the usual Chowpatty beach in South Bombay where the maalishwallahs ply their trade to the khaanjra-dhanda (cruising in public toilets) in nearly every big city. Burbidge went through the whole gamut – while no one in his office seemed to even get a whiff. It’s this side which I find a bit difficult to believe because nothing really escapes good old Mother India’s sharp prying eyes. Though the word AIDS pops up only in the middle of the memoir (page 141 to be specific), I think John is also very lucky that he discovered himself in India sometime just before the arrival of the dreaded infection in the country (in 1985); this allows us to concentrate on how he negotiates his workplace and his sex partners who seem to live in two different worlds. This was obviously on purpose because John is a cross-class cruiser (a man who doesn’t have sex with anybody from his own class but has a different sexual network that doesn’t intersect his social circles). This was the hallmark of most Westerners in the precoming out days when LGBT were not part of the social landscape of India. The rise of LGBT on the social landscape has had its shortcomings; you’ll see fewer men in close physical intimacy in public spaces than before; the homoerotic has become suspect thanks to the new morality gushing in from abroad. Thank God it is still a phenomenon restricted to the semi or mostly westernized urban spaces. What fascinated me is how John walks a razor’s edge of having his fun and risks being outed by some pretty homophobic co-workers in his office. The book is more about such hide-and-seek games and can tire gay men like me who have been out for decades now. It also gave me a good idea of how difficult it was to verbalize and recognize one’s sexual orientation as something natural to one’s very being and personality. That way this book is a sound manual on how to avoid the pitfalls of being outed in your workplace and brazening it out in one big sweep.
28 Seattle Gay News
John Burbidge’s new book The Boatman – courtesy of John Burbidge
Nothing really has changed in India that they know we are anything but a “miniscule misince John nority.” Burbidge O u r or Richard dearest Burton present left it. Sex U n i o n bet ween Health men is Minister casual, should easy and know that ava ilable sex within in incredma r r iage ibly huis practimongo u s cally imnumbers possible of encounfor men ters; and who have both this to work moralistic in strange gover ncities for ment and years on Justice end withS i n g out ever hvi should seeing read such John Burbidge – linkedin.com their spousbooks so
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es or for men who can never hope to marry because they do not wish to marry women at all but cannot be in respectable relationships with their own kind. There are an estimated eight million migrants and over five million truckers who never see their wives for weeks or years on end. There are over 2.3 million homosexual men who are criminals in the eyes of the law and if granted equality and freedom will remain possibly in loving relationships with their male lover. Now, of course, they are forced to find sex – like Burbidge did in India – in parks, toilets, parking lots, on beaches, in simply any public space where it is easy to access other men after dark (or even in broad daylight given an opportunity). The evidence? One out of every 10 gay men in urban India is HIV infected. If Mr. Harshvardhan were to check from his Department of AIDS Control (DAC), this is not because they are dying (disgusted by the pun) to be infected but because there is no recourse but to have hurried and quick sex in dark spaces because of Section 377 and its implications that male-male sex is an illegal act. Burbidge’s book is immensely educative and should be compulsory reading on how a foreigner discovers his true nature (he thanks Ganesha for it) but returns home a very strong and confident man in charge of his life. In India, Justice Singhvi has given us no choice but to go back into the horrid holes of shame and sorrow we are forced to live in, and the BJP now needs to be re-educated all over again that never in our whole incredibly pluralistic history were we ever called criminals and thieves of the love that dare not speak its name. As for my dear Dr. Harshvardhan, I would recommend you visit the steps of the Jama Masjid; there midway up the broad staircase, lies Sarmad the Sufi, beheaded by Aurangzeb. Sarmad’s sin was that he was clad in the sky like Naga and Jain Munis and had hordes of male admirers who upset the Mughal’s sense of religious propriety. Now you, dear sir, can look around for another stairway someplace else; there are many of us sacrificial goats for you to behead and bury for your middle class values that ring so false when you lift the carpet of your party’s bogus morality. The Boatman will surely take you across the Ganga. Read it. Ashok Row Kavi is editor of Bombay Dost (India’s first gay magazine) and chairperson of Humsafar Trust (an LGBT rights and health services NGO). This book review and commentary first appeared in the Hindustan Times on June 27, 2014. Reprinted with permission of the author. Row Kavi is a very significant figure in the Indian/South Asian LGBT community. He was the first openly gay man to come out in India in the early 1980s (against enormous odds) and has become an icon of the LGBT community there. Additional information about Row Kavi is available on Wikepedia.
Celebrating 41 Years!
Mumbai landmarks that were part of the underground gay scene in the 1980s
Mumbai – www.mumbai–metro.com
by Vikram Phukan Special to the SGN The Boatman, a book by former aid worker John Burbidge, is set in India during the early 1980s, unearthing facets and talking about Mumbai landmarks, which were part of a thriving but subterranean gay scene. John Burbidge, originally from Australia, now lives in Washington state. Foraging around the Internet for the phrase “Bombay Bandstand” yields an odd million-or-two hits for the star-strewn promenade at Bandra, a heady sea-sprayed stretch of concrete that has been in existence for less than a decade. Bandstand culture in Mumbai, now seemingly obscured on the Internet, actually goes back a whole century or more. References to it can be found in vintage texts and jazz tomes, although there has been a resurgence of interest in recent times (if ever so slightly), via the good offices of the Bandstand Revival project, which has attempted to bring back elusive traces of a bygone era by springing the pomp of an after-dusk live brass band upon an unsuspecting populace, who have long become completely inured to such instances of embedded culture. However, unknown to many except those with first-hand experience (many of whom were sworn to secrecy by the dictates of those times), the twilight whirring at a bandstand has also been associated with the carousel waltz of an underground culture from as far back as the ‘70s, with the Cooperage Band Stand Garden and Children’s Traffic Park in Colaba (or simply, Bandstand) once being the crowning glory of a thriving gay scene in the city, and a symbol of her subterranean hedonism. Ever since India Today placed its par-
culture. A 1984 piece talks of a gay gathering at the Bandstand on New Year’s Eve, with “exclusively male revellers who circle around the pony track, exchanging greetings with old friends, while some huddle in pairs in the darkness.” The article features a photograph of a gay couple getting cosy in a Mumbai (called Bombay then) park, their faces obscured even if their demeanour spoke of a new openness that, in many ways, we are still talking about in those terms, even now. This was before Ashok Row Kavi’s mother talked about her gay son so forthrightly in a 1986 issue of Savvy magazine, which for many observers of the gay movement (especially those who link its advent with AIDS outreach programs), was the moment history began. Now, a new book released earlier this year [2014] by Yoda Press [and republished in Australia in 2015 by Transit Lounge Press], adds an intriguing prologue to this narrative. The Boatman, by former aid worker John Burbidge, is set in India during the early 1980s, and unearths many facets of a scene in its salad years, untouched by the activism, identity politics or notions of visibility that came much later, and caught in the quagmire of deep-seated repression, with its secrets, lies and unrelenting truths, and equally, untold treasures. Bandstand, as the Australian Burbidge describes it, was a “blazing beacon in an ocean of darkness,” and held an iconic status for gay men throughout India. The book details episodes of midnight hour revelry, amorous encounters with a long line of both cultured and proletarian men, as well as run-ins with the law. Even then, policemen had already discovered the fairly lucrative sideline of pocketing bribes from hapless gay men who were in no position to be outed, and paid up readily. It is a practice that continues to this day, with the plain-
Now the gay scene in the city has so much more visibility. An LGBT rally – photo by Suresh KK
tial archives in the public domain, the rare early article on homosexuals has allowed us a tantalizing glimpse of this parallel
clothes officer a constant feature at even the shadiest of cruising locations. However, the
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general tenor of the book is one of celebration, and of discovery. Burbidge came from a deeply conservative background, and it was in India, as a 30-year-old, that he was able to finally experience men, flesh and soul. Thus, over the years, the Colaba Causeway unwittingly became the first bastion of gay liberation in the city, given how it strung together so many sites of historical significance to queers. Starting with the old stamping ground at Cooperage, so beloved of Burbidge, where lustful sailors from the Naval institute once looked in for fresh pickings, to the Gateway of India where clandestine pick-ups still take place with utmost alacrity, then moving right along the windswept Wellington Pier, with drinking joints Voodoos and Gokul all within shouting distance, one could possibly trace the path of a vintageera pub crawl. In the ‘90s, Gokul’s upper level “had been colonised by (gay men), from (where) they could plot the seduction of the sturdy labourers drinking downstairs”, wrote openly gay author Manil Suri in the literary journal, Granta. The place is now just a run-of-the-mill pub (with the most affordable alcohol, though) with its at-
Memories of such tenuous modes of communication, now survive only in the oral accounts that are a testament to the thwarted lives and lost loves of entire generations. Like Burbidge, another person who lived out his romantic prime surreptitiously in the shadows of Colaba’s alleyways, was Farrokh Bharucha (name changed). Now in his fifties, the Parsi gentleman talks wistfully of his stash of old postcards, from long before cell-phones rendered obsolete the beguiling uncertainty of lovesick memos. One of the postcards is discreetly signed with just the initials of a paramour, DK, bearing a stamp smeared with the postmark, “On Her Majesty’s Service.” He keeps it interred in his old rosewood almirah, in a glory box of jewels and baubles and knick-knacks of little sentimental value to anyone else. “He was my boyfriend, the only boyfriend I knew. It wasn’t conventional. It wasn’t about living together. It was about being in each other’s hearts,” says Bharucha of a man he used to know from just the smell of his hand, or the lilt of his voice, or the glide of his hair, perhaps. On the postcard, DK had written he would visit Bombay, and for three hours every afternoon, he would wait at
TO BE FREE: Like these pigeons at the Gateway, silent sentinel to the subterranean gay culture in the city in the ‘80s and ‘90s – photo by Pradeep Dhivar
tractive bouncers only providing some benign gay interest. The Causeway itself provides an endless supply of international eye candy, with tight physiques nicely turned out in the invitingly dressed-down casualness of backpacker attire. Peeking (as opposed to leching) is now a national pastime, and perhaps doesn’t even bear an overt sexual charge anymore. Later, after collecting a large tumbler of Ice Green Tea Latte (extra macha, extra ice) at the spanking new Starbucks, one could take a detour into the promenade in front of the Taj and mingle with Arab men with long flowing robes. A few doors away from the Radio Club, if one is lucky, Voodoos would be open for the night, although the shutters are often down these days, and the moral police keeps getting blamed. Much much further up ahead is one of the gay universe’s best kept secrets – the Mumbai Port Trust Garden which, on most evenings, attracts quite a queer bunch. Some of Colaba’s multicolour environs have been enshrined for posterity in queer popular culture. In the film, Bombay Boys, Roshan Seth plays an old queen who picks up a young man at the Gateway, from a choice assemblage of several “types.” In a particularly affecting segment in Riyad Vinci Wadia’s seminal Bomgay, an expatriate eager to hear from his friends in India, receives a parcel finally, in which are photographs of shirtless men dancing the night away at Voodoo’s, of friends posing at the gents’ toilet at Dadar station, and of the phallic Apsara Theatre steeple, so iconic for those early revellers (it has since been taken down).
the Gateway for him. Bharucha never went. Sometimes the leap of faith required was too much. “Heaven knows what the cards would have foretold if I had allowed myself to take that chance,” he says. The chance of just one meeting that held so much lifechanging force. These days, memories of casual encounters can be cast aside like crumbs on a lace doily, but Bharucha held on to his little signposts, to almost commemorate a life that never was. The story wasn’t something that was unique to him, it was shared with all those born into a society that did not need them, unless they played along and pretended to not be different. Happiness depends upon those snatched opportunities on which the accidents of life can arrange themselves miraculously. Opening oneself to that infinite unknown could be the difference between a life well spent and one lost in the darkness of eternal denial. Burbidge’s catharsis was effected by India’s welcoming underbelly, the nether reaches of which has snuffed out too many lives. Long after men and women pass into oblivion, the ethereal markers of those lives can be found on benches and pavements, in a favourite stool at a café, in a secluded spot at a park. Colaba has borne witness to personal histories that have never been committed to paper or tape, but their traces, nonetheless, will always remain.
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Seattle Gay News 29
This book review and commentary first appeared on Mid-Day on November 26, 2014. Reprinted with permission of the author.
30 Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2015
Celebrating 41 Years!
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June 19, 2015
Seattle Gay News 31
32 Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2015
Celebrating 41 Years!