Issue 08, Volume 38, February 19, 2010
Spring Travel Guide
mExiCo explOring thE mAyAn rUins in mExicO's yUcAtAn pEninsUlA by John Griffin SGN Contributing Writer As the years have started to slip by, almost as quickly as the pages of a flipbook, I’ve started to think more and more about retirement. My family history taught me not to expect a long life span – in my family, it’s called “the curse of the Demers.” That was my grandmother’s maiden name; and most of the members of her family in recent generations have died in their 60s, or earlier, of heart disease. I’ve never felt confident about my prospects for a lengthy retirement. This concern made me anxious to enjoy life while I could. I developed a pattern of working and saving money, then traveling as much as I could. My interest in far-off places had developed in early childhood, watching the then-popular travelogues, and looking at, and later reading from cover to cover, National Geographic Magazine. I enjoyed those years of traveling immensely, and called it my early retirement. That lifestyle satisfied my desire for new experiences, but left me ill prepared for the possibility of surviving long enough to en-
joy the meager benefits I had been expecting. So I began looking at the figures and trying to see if I could manage anything other than dropping to the pavement on my way to work, the way my Dad did at the age of 62 years and 24 days. First, I listed my priorities. Only two things made the top category on my list: my partner Joey and keeping warm. Everything else could be sacrificed. The obvious solution seemed to be the tropics. Expatriation would have been a less acceptable idea in my youth, but now it’s only a minor see mexico page 18
The Temple of Kukulkan, often referred to as El Castillo (The Castle), in the ancient Mayan city of Chichen Itza
For even more travel reviews, as well as news and interviews, visit us online at www.sgn.org
photo by joseph p. herron
Seattle Gay News
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Seattle Gay News
February 19, 2010
Celebrating 36 Years!
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by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer Tokyo, home to 12 million people, is a place you can get lost in – you can also suffer from serious culture shock. Remember how confused, yet intrigued Scarlett Johansson was in the film Lost in Translation, which was set in Tokyo? It’s that same feeling of utter confusion and curiosity that I experienced on my whirlwind trip through this much-sought-after international destination. The reality is that the Japanese capital is too much to tackle on a single visit, so you’ll have to unwrap it piece by piece on multiple journeys – trust me, see and do what you can the first time, and then go back. Tokyo-Narita Airport is easily accessible from Seattle, with nonstop flights on two airlines, Delta and United – plan on 9.5-hour flights to and from. Visit www.jnto.go.jp or www.japantravelinfo.com for assistance in planning your Japan travels. On my first-ever trek to the Asian continent, I spent just 48 hours in central Tokyo. Here’s what I suggest doing in such a short time span. THE FIRST 24 HOURS Check into Hotel Nikko (www.hnt.co.jp/en/index. html) in the Odaiba district, on the opposite side of Tokyo Bay from the city’s main pulse. If you don’t like crowds (and they’re everywhere in Tokyo), you might want to stay at this off-the-beaten-path hotel across the Rainbow Bridge, which is a 40-minute train ride away from the hustle and bustle. Hotel Nikko is grand, stylish, polished, and offers spectacular views of Tokyo in all its massive, illuminated beauty. Rooms see tokyo page 16
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February 19, 2010
Seattle Gay News
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Inaugural Sweet Caribbean Cruise a satisfying voyage tesy ov e r
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prising. There was an interesting LGBT leadership discussion on political strategies. That panel Excitement built last November as my seemed in agreement that we have let the partner and I took the shuttle from the New right define the issues, such as Orleans airport to our hotel in preparation Gays in the milfor the inaugural cruise of the new Lesbian vacation company, Sweet. We picked up that three other women in the bus were there for the same reason. There was a pre-cruise party that night with Cajun food and music. The next morning, the checkin people gave us an information sheet saying the vessel’s previous trip had had an outbreak of flu. Because of that, staff were poised with bottles of disinfectant to spray on our hands as we boarded and when we approached the dining areas. Walking through the halls, we noticed the ship has fabulous art with an Asian theme. The launching event featured great jambalaya and fried catfish. There was fun dance music and commentary by Nat and Meg on the deck. We had a chance to notice the group of 1,200 had racial and age diversity, though the preponderance were 20-something white women. The cruise included a few Gay men and straight allies. A couple of our fellow passengers were already drunk during the lifeboat drill. This set the tone for the fact that we would be running into people who had had too much to drink throughout the week. For me, as a longtime sober dyke, the amount of drinking made me uneasy – especially when Shannon Wentworth, the founder of Sweet, described her vision as a big volunteer event followed by drinking. Fortunately, there were alcohol-free tables itary and Gay available and AA meetings onboard. marriage – issues Suzanne Westenhoefer followed Went- that the LGBT comworth’s opening with a funny announce- munity are not necment about a grief session for women de- essarily in agreeprived of their cell phones entitled, “Other ment about. Things You Can Do With Your Hands.” We enjoyed a She also did a riff about the difference tour of the Kebetween butches and femmes on arrival hunlich ruins in their rooms. The butch says, “I’m OK, out of Costa I showered yesterday.” The femme notices Maya, Mexico. what limited blowing power the hair dryer The tour guide has and freaks out at how hard it is going to was part be to dry her hair. My partner pointed out that, contrary to that stereotype, the butches had put a lot of time into sculpting their hair. The first night, the ship had to go very fast to get out of the path of tropical storm Ida. Because of that, it rocked back and forth violently. Some events were canceled because of the movement or because presenters got seasick. We weren’t always notified in advance, but would find notices posted once we struggled to the place. After that first night, the pace of the ship slowed down. Mayan and wellFROM TOUCANS versed about Mayan culture. He was TO STRAP-ONS also a birder and pointed out a toucan, parBabes in Toyland were on board and did rot, and a parakeet. The atmosphere there sessions about sexuality, including having was peaceful and sacred. women model strap-ons. We noticed some There was a showing of the movie Itty of the crew looking on with expressions Bitty Titty Committee, which we enjoyed. that suggested they found Americans sur- The film was about Lesbians engaging in
cour
by Marian Michener SGN Contributing Writer
political action against a breast enhancement clinic as well as other targets. It includes a love story we found involving. The director, Jamie Babbit, spoke about the fact that her goal had been to show young Lesbians that feminism can be interesting. We had planned to do a wildlife rafting tour the morning we arrived in Belize City. However, due to a mechanical problem with the boat and compounded by the fact that
the replacement boat had less room for the 13 of us who had signed up, our excursion was delayed until the afternoon. A representative of the cruise line offered us the option of joining a tour to the Athun-Ha ruins, a free lunch where the rafts put in, and then the wildlife rafting trip. The proposal sounded good, so 11 of the 13 said yes. The only catch was that the bus threw an axle, so we had to wait an extra half-hour to get to the lunch place. Meanwhile, no one had told the woman cooking rice and beans and chicken and fried plantains there were going to be additional guests, so she almost ran out of food. She managed to serve us light portions, but the plantains were completely gone by the time we got there. When the wildlife raft arrived, we were delighted with the fact that we got a close look at a group of howler monkeys. We also saw scads of iguanas in mating coloration and some crocodiles. And the birding was excellent – we saw Amazon green kingfishers, a ringed kingfisher, a green
Celebrating 36 Years!
heron, an olive-breasted parakeet, a social flycatcher, a vermillion flycatcher, a hawk that the locals refer to as a “road hawk,” an egret, a pacific grackle, a yellow-tailed montezuma, a great kiskadee, and much, much more. The colors that flashed by were brilliant and breathtaking. The river was peaceful and lovely. We left the river feeling quite satisfied. However, when we got to the end of our rafting trip, apparently there had been a miscommunication with the bus driver about where to pick us up, so the bus wasn’t there. Sand flies started to bite us, so we decided we needed to keep moving. We walked the mile or so to the highway hoping to find the bus, though three of us were disabled and knew our joints were going to be sore the next day. Even when we made it to the highway, the bus took a while to show up, making us nervous we weren’t going to make it back to the ship in time for its departure. If that had happened, we would have had to stay another day in Belize while our ship left the port. We listened to the monkeys howl, which was a thrill, and finally the bus appeared. What started out as a fourhour adventure had turned into a nine-hour adventure. Eleven very tired women slogged their way onto the ship and immediately headed for showers and food. PLANTAINS IN ROATAN A shop owner at our next stop of Roatan, Honduras called the sand fly bites, “Our gift to you.” We had a nice bus tour of the highlights of Roatan, which, as an island in Honduras, seems untouched by the coup on the mainland. We had enough time to stretch out in the sun, and enjoy a delicious meal of homemade tortilla chips, refried beans, ceviche, and sausage. We finally got the fried plantains we had missed in Belize. A nice surprise was that the “$” sign we had seen on the menu referred to the local currency of lempiras, so our meal cost a twentieth of what we had expected. Back on the ship, we saw a new movie, And Then Came Lola, which is a takeoff of Run Lola, Run. Both films include both live action and animation. We liked the multiple retellings of the Lesbian triangle from different characters’ perspectives. Co-director Ellen Seidler (co-director Megan Siler was unable to appear) talked about making a point of finding out Lesbian actresses to play the roles. Jill Bennet and Cathy DeBuono, partners who also star along with Suzanne Westenhoefer in the web show We Have to Stop Now, met during filming of And Then Came Lola. They also spoke about their experiences making the film. WORKING TOGETHER IN EVERY PORT One thing that makes the Sweet tour stand out from others is that they offer volunteer service opportunities in every port. In Cozumel, Mexico, we participated in several projects, and found it a gratifying way to interact with people in other countries without just being a tourist. We had thought we were just going to work on beautification of a community park, but the organizers wound up combining our group with another one that was doing beach cleanup and tree planting, so we did all three. Having 40-some of us working on the projects made them go faster. We named our tree that we planted “Lola.” The appreciation in the faces of the people there was very moving. Plus we shared great tortillas, rice, beans and chicken made by some of the local women. We
came away from the beach cleanup sensitized to the idea of avoiding using plastic bottles. We learned that 85% of the trash that washes up on Mexico’s beaches comes from other countries and sources. It’s sobering to think that so much of the garbage on their beaches is not of their own making. My partner and I are both disabled and liked the fact that we didn’t have to be embarrassed about working our way back to the bus. My partner pointed out that it would have been helpful if our hosts had given us the instructions for the beach clean-up on the bus instead of standing out in the hot sun. Also, it would have been good to have snacks provided since we were working so hard. A refinement would be for the schedule to allow both volunteering and doing one of the tours. LIVELY PERFORMANCE ENDED CRUISE Jen Foster, a lively guitar-playing folk singer current living in Nashville, performed that night. Foster ’s “ T h e Sweet Song” was chosen as Sweet’s theme song. I liked the fact that she acknowledged having been through rehab, and gave a shout out to the other sober people there. She said, “This whole ship is going to have to go through rehab after this week.” She sang “Closer to Nowhere,” which deals with quitting drinking. “Last Call” captured getting a call from someone who has been drinking. Jill King, originally from Alabama, sang nice backups. Other songs we liked were “Taking Bob Dylan” about splitting up the things after a break up, and “We Go Down to the Home Depot,” about a love affair with a tool-freak butch. According to Foster, fans sometimes show up at her concerts wearing tool belts. Some of the food high points included great pumpkin ginger bisque, gumbo, and spring rolls with plum sauce. Also memorable were jerk chicken, lobster, and grouper. We tasted delicious desserts: vanilla bean soufflé, apple bread pudding, and honey crème brûlée. On our last day, we went to a press conference, where we learned that 310 women had participated in the volunteer service opportunities – a pretty good percentage. Shannon Wentworth underlined the impressive fact that she had arranged tree-planting to offset the carbon burning of the ship and our flights there. One thing we had wondered about was that the food and a lot of the service details had been better on a previous Holland America cruise that we had taken than on the Norwegian Cruise Line that we were on, including the fact that Holland America had offered things such as on-board photography classes. Wentworth explained that she had lined up a Holland America ship at first, but they had backed out, leaving her with little time before the cruise was to set sail to find another line. The CEO for RSVP tours was there as well, and said he had been very upset when he heard Holland America had canceled, and he had personally read them the riot act. He is confident that Holland America won’t do that again. We would like to see Sweet use Holland America in the future, if possible. One thing we like about Sweet is that their prices are low, and they allow guests to pay on a monthly basis. This allows people who might not otherwise be able to participate to have a more realistic opportunity to sail into the sunset on a cruise. We realize the economy makes this a hard time to launch a Lesbian vacation company. We want them to succeed, and they are off to a grand start. Their customers are justifiably excited about their inaugural cruise.
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Seattle Gay News
February 19, 2010
Celebrating 36 Years!
The Gay Games VIII checklist What to know and do before you leave
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
With five months to go until the start of Gay Games VIII in Cologne on July 31, this is a list of what to know and have done before your departure. 1) Register for your event(s) at www.gaygamescologne.com, and note that admission for Opening and Closing ceremonies is included with the entry fee. A public transit pass should also be included. 2) Book your flight and do it fast, because summer is peak travel season. Lufthansa, Air France, British Airways, Icelandair, Delta and United all fly non-stop from Seattle to Europe. 3) Reserve your hotel soon for best availability. Gastehaus (www. dshs-koeln.de/gaestehaus) is a dormitory-style hotel located on the Sports University campus. Other suggestions are Hotel Chelsea (www.hotel-chelsea.de), blocks from the Gay district, and Marriott Cologne (www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/cgnmc-colognemarriott-hotel/), five minutes from the Hbf. 4) Cologne’s main train station (Hbf), where you’ll likely connect into from Frankfurt or other European city, is fully equipped with Starbucks, McDonalds, Subway, Burger King, Lufthansa office, Rail Europe office, bakeries, ice cream shops, and a McClean (public restroom with small fee). Platforms are aboveground, and upon arrival go directly to the DB office (German train service) or tourism office for assistance in getting to your hotel. 5) Credit cards are rarely accepted outside of hotels and fine restaurants in Cologne, so carry a reasonable amount of cash with you at all times. No putting your drinks on tabs or getting cash back at the convenience store. 6) Sports University will host the bodybuilding, beach volleyball, table tennis, handball, martial arts, water polo, swimming, synchronized swimming, diving, cheerleading, and soccer events, as well as the volleyball and basketball finals. Ballroom dancing is at the Maritim Hotel, and sailing is in an entirely different country: The Netherlands. 7) Opening and Closing ceremonies will take place at the Rhein Energie Stadion (48,000 capacity) on the campus of the Sports University. There is a direct train line that runs from the campus to the Gay district, referred to as “The Bermuda Triangle.” 8) Rudolfplatz is the nearest train station to The Bermuda Triangle. Memorize it so you can get to and from your hotel if not staying in the area. 9) Food at Gay Games is at your own expense and plans are underway to serve hot meals inside the university’s cafeteria. There’s not much else around, so bring a boxed lunch from the hotel if you don’t plan on eating at the cafeteria. 10) Berlin, Hamburg, Frankfurt and Düsseldorf are just hours away by ICE (high-speed train) from Cologne. You can get to Berlin in five hours and 40 minutes, Hamburg in four hours, Frankfurt in one hour and 55 minutes, and Düsseldorf in 25 minutes. Times don’t include layovers, which, if planned correctly, shouldn’t be long.
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February 19, 2010
Seattle Gay News
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Frankfurt, Düsseldorf & Cologne highlight Germany’s picturesque southern regions A trip to Germany is a learning experience. There’s so much history and culture that you almost don’t know where to begin. It’s a country once divided by a wall that now stands proudly united, a nation that has restored its reputation from a tragic past, and a place where old vs. new clashes brilliantly and rather intriguingly – I wasn’t expecting to look directly at Checkpoint Charlie from a Starbucks window. Interestingly, Germany has an openness and deep tolerance for Gays, whether they be residents or foreign tourists. Every major city has a vibrant Gay scene, and the men are beautiful to look at – usually tall, broad-shouldered, with chiseled features, and definitely meatand-potatoes-fed. From the decorative Christmas markets in winter to the evenings along the riverbeds in summer to the happy drunken nights of Oktoberfest in the fall, a little bit of everything can be found at this European destination. There was much I loved about Germany, very little that I didn’t, and without a doubt I know that I want to go back and explore it further. My two-week adventure took me to both the northern and southern regions of the country, and my first stops were in Frankfurt, Cologne and Düsseldorf. Remember that nonstop flights between Seattle and Frankfurt aboard Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) are the simplest way to get there, and don’t forget to purchase your Rail Europe pass (www.raileurope.com) before departure to see as much of Germany as possible. Visit www.germany-tourism.de for more travel information, and purchase a “Welcome Card” at each city’s tourism office for discounts at museums and other visitor attractions. Now, allow me to introduce you to this fascinating country. FRANKFURT Seattle, meet Frankfurt. Frankfurt, meet Seattle. If the two cities were actual people, they’d be playground pals because they’re similar in many ways. With a metro population just over 600,000, Frankfurt is neither too small nor too big.
shops in the formation of a triangle – well, sort of. Friends (Bleichstr. 46), Bananas (Schäfergasse 42-44), Luckys (Schäfergasse 27) and Fraggels (Schäfergasse 30) are the action spots for Gay men. My favorite, however, was the Central (Elefantengasse 13) – a hole-in-the wall Gay lounge that would be completely pitch dark if it weren’t for the illuminated bar counter. With pinball machines on the side wall, alternative music playing overhead, sexy hipster clientele, a very intimate space, and cool drinks like the mint daiquiri, this is definitely the place I’ll run back to on a return trip to Frankfurt. Gay saunas (Metropol-Sauna, Saunawerk) and video arcades are in close proximity to The Bermuda Triangle, and a listing of these can be found in the Friends-Gay Map or either of Germany’s leading Gay magazines, Blu and Gab, all available at any of the aforementioned businesses, or at the Oscar Wilde bookstore (Alte Gasse 51). Also in The Bermuda Triangle are permanent memorials for both victims of AIDS and National Socialism blocks away from each other. The AIDS memorial is rather grim – large iron nails jabbed into a brick wall on the backside of a cathedral, each nail representing a local partner or friend who fell to the disease. You’ll The historic townhall of Düsseldorf also notice a series of sidewalk plaques It’s a practical city with everything needed Rooms are average size, by European stan- throughout the Gayborhood dedicated to for contemporary living: centrally-located dards, and are fully equipped with the ba- Gay victims of the Holocaust. shopping malls, good restaurants, a repu- sics: tiled bathroom, work desk, cable TV, table arts scene, and more than 200 banks to and side-by-side twin beds. You’ll notice a EAT/DRINK/SEE safeguard your money. Frankfurt is a major pair of Levi’s jeans hanging on a coat hook My first suggestion for visitors to European financial hub, easily recognizable in your room, doubling as both a decora- Frankfurt is to hop across the river from by its tall buildings and overall upscale ap- tion piece and a self-promotional item. The downtown to the Sachsen hausen district, pearance. The weather tends to mirror Se- lobby features a Mac computer station with known for its apple wine pubs – here, on attle’s: rainy and gloomy in winter, sunny free internet access and a café/bakery, pro- cobblestoned alleys, are the city’s finand suitably warm in summer. viding a quiet ambiance for German brews est makers of this regional specialty. A in the evening hours. The area surrounding light and refreshing beverage served in STAY 25hours Hotel Frankfurt seems to be going beer steins, apple wine is a must-drink in Two blocks from Frankfurt’s main through a redevelopment phase, so it isn’t Frankfurt, and we found an awesome pub train terminal (aka the Hbf) is a boutique the most appealing part of the city, though called Zum Feuerraedchen (Textostr. 24) property called 25hours Hotel Frankfurt it’s walking distance to shopping centers, that had it available at 6 p.m., right when (www.25hours-hotels.com). The hotel, popular restaurants, outdoor food stalls, and pubs begin to open for dinner. Traditional with a sister property on the opposite the aforementioned Hbf. plates of schnitzel (battered pork chops) end of the city, is uniquely designed smothered in cream gravy with a side of by Levi’s – yes, the denim giant – GAY SCENE fried potatoes and salad are the norm at whose European management and The Bermuda Triangle is Frankfurt’s Gay these restaurants, which are casual and buying offices reside next door. district, with a dozen restaurant/bars and open to all types. Pulse (Bleichstr. 38a) is a Gay restaurant with a sophisticated Massimo Catarinella
by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
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Frankfurt, Germany at night
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Celebrating 36 Years!
ambiance, polite service and terrific menu – my fish was golden and crisp on the outside, moist on the inside. After dinner, mingle at the lavishly designed Piper Red Lounge (Bleichstr. 38). For sightseeing, plan on spending a full day along Frankfurt’s Museum Riverbank, sheltering the Stadel (Schaumainkai 63), German Architecture (Schaumainkai 43), German Film (Schaumainkai 41) and Jewish (Untermainkai 14/15) museums. Note that museums are closed on Monday. If you want to blend in with locals, take the subway (U-Bahn) to the Merianplatz station and stroll through Bergerstr., where you’ll find small restaurants, retail boutiques and coffee shops. COLOGNE Host of the 2010 Gay Games, Cologne is a 90-minute train ride from Frankfurt and home to 70,000 college students, including those who attend the country’s prestigious Sports University. It’s a beautiful, scenic city with a laid-back feel and an openness to every lifestyle. The drawback for me was its public transportation system, which I found to be a bit confusing for a first-time visitor – somehow I couldn’t get the hang of it right away as I did in Hamburg and Berlin. If going to Cologne late in the year, avoid early November because Carnival festivities litter the streets with thousands of young, intoxicated party animals. STAY Less than a five-minute walk to the Rudolfplatz train station and a skip from the Gay bars is Hotel Chelsea (www.hotelchelsea.de/), situated in an area of the city that reminded me a lot of the 5th and 6th arrondissements of Paris. There are numerous restaurants, convenience stores, local fashion boutiques, and even a dimly lit jazz bar, that made this location so enjoyable. While my room was plain in decor, it was spacious and really comfortable, and the service downstairs at the front desk was impeccable – they even let me use their own computer to check my e-mail messages. Another recommended place to stay is the Marriott Hotel Cologne (www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ cgnmc-cologne-marriott-hotel/), three blocks away from the Hbf that puts you on a direct train line to the Sports University campus, site of the Gay Games opening and closing ceremonies. Supermodel/ TV host Heidi Klum once walked down the illuminated lobby staircase here, just one of the celebrities who’ve cozied up at this particular Marriott. Rooms include modern amenities, the Executive Floor lounge is divine, and the downstairs restaurant Fou is a French café gone absolutely right – despite its almost cheesy Parisian setting, the food is a knockout, and you can watch the kitchen prepare every meal through a special TV channel available in each room. Check the hotel’s website in the near future for possible Gay Games packages and/or deals. GAY SCENE Cologne bills itself as the Gay Mecca of Germany, but this title deservedly belongs to Berlin – however, it does boast the largest Christopher Street Day festival in the country and has a sizzling Gay district called The Bermuda Triangle (just like Frankfurt) conveniently nestled in a posh section of the city brimming with high-end retailers, movie theaters, traditional cake shops, and trendy cafés with outdoor patios. There’s no shortage of bars to drink and hook up at – Ex-Corner (Schaafenstr. 57-59), Cox Cologne (Muehlenbach 53) and Blue Lounge (Mathiasstr. 4-6) are the most hotly pursued. I preferred two smaller ones – Schampanja (Mauritiuswall 43), a smoky cubbyhole with great overhead music, and Zum Pitter (Alter Markt 58), another shoebox in the old part of town near the famed Cathedral. Midnight Sun (Richard-Wagner Str. 25) is a fetish Gay bar that I opted not to enter, though I’m told it lives up to its wild reputation, and nearby Phoenix Sauna (Richard-Wagner Str. 25) is the steamiest locale to relieve some stress. I recommend two great cafés in The Bermuda Triangle, Cafe Rico (Mittelstr. 31) makes an excellent cappuccino with an atmosphere that is inviting to visitors, and Era Cafe-Bar (Friesenwall 26) is a cool hangout spot for young Gay men with great signature cock-
tails. Also, sex/bookstore chain Bruno’s is down the street from Era Cafe-Bar on Friesenwall. EAT/DRINK/SEE Cologne is peppered with great Turkish delis and chain bakeries, like Kamps. You must try the local donut called “The Berliner,” liberally dusted with sugar and filled with fruit jelly (I ate two in one sitting). And though it’s a tourist trap with groups of 20 or more being shuttled in and out for lunch, Peter’s Brauhaus (Mühlengasse 1) is a wonderful introduction to a traditional sit-down German meal – again, the schnitzel is a top suggestion, and during the winter months order the seasonal favorite, goose. The Chocolate Museum (Am Schokoladenmuseum 1) chronicles the sweet success of the cocoa and chocolate industry from 3,000 years ago to today, including a working factory on the second level and a museum of odd memorabilia from around the world a floor above that. Just feet away, the German Sport & Olympia Museum (Rheinauhafen 1) pays tribute to the country’s most beloved sports icons, such as tennis star Steffi Graf, and it also has exhibits of the 1936 and 1972 Olympic Games in Berlin and Munich, respectively. Finally, if you can find it, visit the Holocaust memorial, which honors the Gay men and women who lost their lives during the Nazi regime. Düsseldorf A 25-minute train ride from Cologne is Düsseldorf, highly recommended for a day trip en route to Hamburg, or just an afternoon excursion should you get bored at the Gay Games. It’s a peaceful, gorgeous city with outdoor art displays and dozens of local artisans, some of who own tiny shops tucked in the back of grand apartment buildings. I spent a mere six hours in Düsseldorf, but I became quite fond of it in that short time – there was a sense of simplicity and true community here, especially when I strolled through the city’s farmers market. It’s also an easy place to get around in, thanks to free rides on public streetcars and walkable paths throughout. GAY SCENE Düsseldorf has a relatively smaller Gay community than Frankfurt and Cologne, yet it still has a few Gay bars close to the Hbf on Charlottenstr. and some in the city center. Comeback (Charlottenstr. 60), Musk Club (Charlottenstr. 47), and the mixed restaurant/lounge Café Seitensprung (Grupelostr. 5) are three worth mentioning. For dance club seekers, Amitabha (Berliner Allee 46) is said to be the best place to shake your stuff. There’s a bookstore called Book & XXX (Bismarckstr. 86) that stocks everything from German porn to lubes to playful underwear. Should you visit Düsseldorf in July, the “Pink Monday” festivities are expected to draw 50,000 Gay frolickers and straight friends to the area fairgrounds – it’s billed as the “Largest Fair on the Rhine.” EAT/DRINK/DO For a thrill, the Rhine Tower observation deck gives you a panoramic view of Düsseldorf at 550 feet above ground – the structure itself, a telecommunications tower at the foot of the regional congressional offices, stands just over 780 feet in total height. It takes less than two minutes to reach the observation area by elevator, which houses a revolving restaurant/café, though I don’t suggest this sightseeing opportunity to anyone afraid of heights – it’s an incredible experience, but a tad scary. On the ground, the Carlstadt district is an artsy section of town with jewelry and clothing designers, stylish boutique shops, petite art galleries, and a string puppet theater. The farmers market in the center of the city is a fantastic spot to grab a snack, buy handmade souvenirs, and rub shoulders with the locals. A walk through Düsseldorf’s Old Town is recommended, especially for a lunch break – Zum Schlussel (Bolkerstr. 41-47) made my top ten Best Restaurants list of 2009 for its rustic tavern setting and its delicious, generously portioned meals (the schnitzel is the best I had during my 12-day trip in Germany). And for museum lovers, The Kunsthalle (Grabbeplatz 4) shouldn’t be missed for fabulous contemporary works.
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February 19, 2010
Seattle Gay News
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BIG SUR: Post Ranch Inn a magnificent and memorable getaway by E. Joyce Glasgow SGN A&E Writer
THE LAP OF LUXURY The visionary architecture undulates naturally, organically following the curves of the land and sea. There are cozy, womblike tree houses on stilts which overlook the trees, sea and Ventana Wilderness peaks, and sleek, sophisticated suites with floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors which hug the cliffside, dramatically
sil, and other herbs and vegetables for use in the restaurant, Sierra Mar. Everywhere one walks, the air is permeated by the intoxicating, heady scents of rosemary, lavender, sage and redwood. The
e. joyce glasgow
When I arrived at the Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, California, I was greeted with warmth, hospitality, and a glass of champagne by general manager Dan Priano and his staff, including a sixth-generation member of the Post family, for whom the Inn is named. This land has so much history. For at least 10,000 years, the peaceful, indigenous Esselen people lived on about 750 square miles of the Big Sur and Ventana Wilderness Area. In more recent times, pioneer William Brainard Post headed west from Connecticut in 1848 at the age of 18, and at the age of 30 took out a claim on 160 acres of land in Big Sur, becoming one of the first to homestead this stunning, wild land on the edge of the continent. The Post family worked the land as a ranch for decades. In the early 1990s, a plan emerged to create an intimate luxury getaway on the property, and the multiple award-winning Post Ranch Inn was born.
perched over the expansive, endless Pacific. Some of the roofs are green, with soft-hued plants growing on them, giving them the appearance of Hobbit houses. The Inn is off the grid and generates 90% of its energy from
All of the Inn’s elegant furniture is made on the property. My suite had comfy leather chairs, radiant flooring, and a well-stocked complimentary bar, complete with a chilled bottle of champagne and a lovely embossed note welcoming me and wishing me a happy birthday. There was a wood-burning fireplace near my bed, completely stocked with fragrant redwood logs and kindling. My bathtub had Jacuzzi jets and overlooked the ocean – in fact, all three of my suite’s rooms overlooked the ocean. It was just spectacular! My bedroom had a desk and chair, complete WiFi internet access, a CD player as well as piped-in music, and, blissfully, no televisions. If my corner of heaven was to be anything like this, I would be perfectly happy!
Kodiak Greenwood
COMFORT AND SERENITY On the 100-acre property there are two heated infinity pools on the cliffs to lounge about in, one mosaiced with pieces of Big Sur jade. There is a swimming pool down the hill long enough for lap swimming, and gentle walking paths through stands of oldgrowth redwood trees. Small wild rabbits hop in and out of the bushes, and a large horned buck of about 250 lbs. made an appearance at dusk down by the pond. There are large, bold abstract and figurative statues positioned strategically around the property. I was blessed to witness the sky dance of two giant California condors soaring powerfully over the cliffs and sea – not a common sight. My stay included hearty breakfasts, buffet style, in the Sierra Mar restaurant, which is The view from the patio at the Post Ranch Inn suspended in air over the coastbanks of solar panels on the ranch. It has effects on the nervous system are very calm- line. The floor-to-ceiling windows give you been lauded internationally for its green op- ing, and the scents are refreshing and plea- a perfectly unobstructed view of the Big Sur coast. Breakfasts included fluffy, moist erations. An organic garden is maintained, surable. providing luscious heirloom tomatoes, baWhat makes the Post Ranch so unique and vegetable frittatas, eggs Benedict made with special is in the way guests are treated and avocado or ham, roasted potatoes with red the attention to detail. The staff is incredibly pepper, some of the best Belgian waffles gracious, helpful, and professional. I feel (made to order) that I have ever tasted, fruits, like I’ve been completely spoiled! If all peo- juices, exotic homemade jams, and houseple treated each other with this much kind- baked muffins and pastries. The breakfasts ness and respect, we’d have a much happier were satisfying and delicious, and current copies of daily papers are provided. world! The atI was demosphere lighted when is quiet and I was told restful. There that I would are only 40 be staying in guest rooms, a room called so there are “Peace.” I never very found out that many people all the rooms around. There were named is a comfortafter people able library associated for quiet readwith the Post ing time. family and There are that the new no cars alrooms on my lowed past end were all the reception named after area and parkwomen of ing lot below, the family, at except for Bill Post’s restaff workers’ quest, to hongolf carts and or them for quiet Lexus all that they hybrid SUVs had done. which transMy room port guests was named and their beafter Ellen longings to Peace, one and from their of the family rooms and descendants around the and the famlarge property. ily historian Young redwood trees The absence in her day. My room turned out to be a glorious suite, of vehicles helps to maintain the tranquil, hugging the cliff many hundreds of feet natural atmosphere. above the Pacific Ocean. It was beautifully RELAXING AND RENEWAL appointed, very contemporary and looked I had a relaxing spa treatment at the peacelike it came out of the pages of Architectural Digest. The dynamic and colorful ful spa building, set amongst trees. First, a artwork of Greg Hawthorne and other art- hot bath was drawn for me, infused with a ists featured at the popular local Hawthorne soothing milk and herb concoction, in which Gallery graced my suite, and my patio had a I soaked for about 20 minutes. Then the sensuously designed stainless steel hot tub. massage therapist massaged me with special
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Celebrating 36 Years!
per; line-caught local white sea bass with braised fennel, Bloomsdale spinach, Dungeness crab and Meyer lemon sabayon; and for dessert, Grand Marnier with vanilla crème anglaise and farmers market berries – with “Happy Birthday” written in chocolate sauce on the plate. I really enjoyed my dinner as I watched the sun set into the west and disappear below the ocean’s horizon. Wine director Dominique Da Cruz is very knowledgeable and passionate about wines. He understands the most sophisticated
allowed him to choose my wines for each of the four courses, and the wines he chose were fabulous. I wouldn’t have changed a thing. Sierra Mar has an extensive, awardwinning wine list and features unusual, hard-to-find wines.
PLANNING YOUR STAY Room and suite rates at the Post Ranch Inn range from $500-$2,185 nightly – obviously on the very high end of things. There are also several houses with views on the property available for two- to four-night minimums, accommodating up to four, six, or eight adults, which are a bit more economical at $1,685$2,800 nightly. You may be surprised and reeling right now at the cost of staying here, thinking that this place must be frequented primarily by wealthy Hollywood celebrities, rich executives, or oil tycoons, but in reality, although it is a relaxing escape for some wellknown Hollywood folks, many of the people who stay here are not necessarily wealthy or celebrities, but rather normal people who have saved up to stay in this spectacular location for a very special occasion. When I was there, there was a couple celebrating their 59th wedding anniversary, and another young couple from New York celebrating their engagement. Many weddings and commitment ceremonies for straight and Gay Cliff house couples are held at the Post Ranch fig jam and heirloom tomato salsa from Inn, and the Inn’s historian, Soarbreakfast were two delicious examples ing Starkey, is available to preside of these creative, food-conserving conas minister over ceremonies. Durcoctions. His four-course prix fixe dining the brief period when Gay and ners ($105) feature innovative uses of Lesbian marriages were legal in ingredients and flavors. My four-course California, a number of same-sex dinner was luscious, meticulously elabcouples celebrated their marriages orate, and highly imaginative. It conat this magnificent and memorable sisted of the following mouth-watering destination. The jade pool at sunset dishes: butter-poached Maine lobster For more information and to with parsnip puree, red wine reduction and details about each individual wine served make reservations for the Post Ranch Inn apple-chanterelle mushroom salad; bour- at the restaurant, its flavors, and the most and/or Sierra Mar Restaurant, visit www. ride with Maine diver scallop and red pep- perfect pairings with each available dish. I postranchinn.com.
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Kodiak Greenwood
FINE DINING Anyone may dine at the award-winning Sierra Mar Restaurant for lunch or dinner, whether a guest of the Inn or not. Reservations are advised. I had a lovely chat with the delightful executive chef, Craig von Foerster. He is charming, outspoken and down to earth, and is dedicated to serving fresh, organic, seasonal and regional food. Chef Craig’s schedule is ambitious and intense – the dinner menu changes nightly and Post Ranch Inn is about 35 miles from any food shops, so creating ever-changing and complex dishes is no small feat. The accolade-winning chef started cooking, surprisingly, at a fast food burger place. From there he studied recipes and cooked in top restaurants. Growing up in a large family with a single mom gave him a lifelong appreciation for food, which was
scarce in his youth. He said he always finds ways to use fruits and vegetables in creative ways when they are too ripe to use in particular dinner recipes. The exotic vanilla
courtesy Post Ranch Inn
therapeutic Hungarian mud, which had cinnamon and other spices in it. The cinnamon and the massage warmed up the mud on my skin, helping to heat and relax my muscles. After rinsing off all the mud, I was given another massage, and finished with a short rest on the massage table. I then sipped on a soothing cup of herbal tea while sitting outside in my robe on the small deck, with a picture-perfect view of the Ventana Peaks to meditate on. The next day, I did a shamanic “renewal” ritual with a shamanic practitioner who had studied with a Peruvian shaman. This ritual shamanic journey served to lift unnecessary cares, fears and anxieties off of me that have been passed down in my DNA through generations of ancestors. This fear may have been necessary for them in their lifetimes, but it does not have anything to do with me in this lifetime. I found the ritual surprisingly uplifting and freeing. There are complimentary morning classes held in the yurt by the pool, which vary day to day and include Feldenkreis, yoga, guided nature walks, and stargazing through a powerful telescope in the evenings.
February 19, 2010
Seattle Gay News 11
Boats, trains, and floatplanes: Vancouver Island without a car by Scott Rice SGN Contributing Writer
Steven Lane
Many urban Seattleites are giving up their cars for a variety of reasons. Some find parking a pain. Some find Zipcar too convenient. Some feel a sense of social responsibility, and many are disenchanted with the politics of big oil. This doesn’t present a problem when jetting off to Thailand, Iceland, or Europe, where taking your own ride isn’t an option. But what about taking a trip nearer to home – a trip where the car would make sense? I decided to visit Vancouver Island sans automobile. Vancouver Island, a short drive/ferry ride north, offers a vast array of vacation options including winter sports, backpacking, kayaking, cruises, museums, theaters, world-class resorts, world-class restaurants, and numerous local artists/artisans making everything from music to cheese to wine. If you’re an auto-less Seattle urbanite, getting to Vancouver Island can be half the fun.
silk and the views were stunning. Less than want to buy round-trip tickets, buy early and an hour after departing Seattle, we were save money. The biggest surprise about Clipper is that taxiing Victoria’s Inner Harbour. the food is cheap. Breakfast and light dinner baskets range from a paltry $6 to $8. Beer victoria Clipper If planning to fly one way and float the and wine is about $5 a pop. You won’t go other, take Kenmore Air up and return on hungry, or broke. The Clipper is a great way to travel. The the Clipper. The baggage weight restrictions are less rigid on the Clipper, so you can get seating areas are comfortable and you can
Getting Around
Kenmore Air Kenmore Air has been flying floatplanes over the Pacific Northwest since 1946. Along with regular year-round service to destinations from Seattle to Port Hardy, B.C., Kenmore Air regularly flies chartered planes throughout the region and 20-minute flightseeing tours that take off and land on Lake Union. Be sure to observe the baggage weight limits. You can make special arrangements for extra baggage in advance. Check in at the Kenmore Air Terminal on Lake Union an hour early, and bring your passport. We waited in the passenger area while the sun rose over Seattle to reveal the first clear day in some time. Check-in was easy, and when they called our flight we headed down the dock to the plane. We met our pilot, Larry, who helped us aboard the 10-seat Turbine Otter aircraft. Within minutes we were skimming the waters of Lake Union before being whisked into the air. The day was gorgeous, with views of the Olympic Mountains, Mt. Baker, the Cascades, and of course, Seattle’s governess, Mt. Rainier. The flight was smooth as
Courtenay, B.C. Train Station
all those Cowichan sweaters home without a hitch. The sleek, high-speed catamaran makes the trip in about two hours and 45 minutes. Tickets are $85-95 one way, depending on the season and some round-trip tickets are actually cheaper than one-way. Kids and seniors get discounts, and if you
enjoy the scenery from the big windows. Food service isn’t exactly quick, but it comes to your table and, hey, you’ve got two hours and forty-five minutes to soak in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Puget Sound. Where you goin’ anyway? VIA Rail Canada VIA Rail Canada runs the national passenger train service for the Canadian government. The Malahat is one of the smallest and least utilized lines in the VIA system. As such, its demise has been predicted for 30 years. But like the little engine that could, it just keeps going. When I’d tell locals we came by train,
they would reply in one of two ways: “Is the train still running?” or “What was it like?” You see, the locals don’t take the train much, and neither do tourists. Too bad, because the Malahat is a charming ride through some beautiful countryside. I suggest going north by train and returning by seaplane or ferry. However, missing out on this romantic ride with views of snow-capped mountains and the dark blue Strait of Georgia would be a tragedy. The single rail car leaves from the heart of Victoria and grinds slowly out of town toward Malahat pass. The seats are comfy and the views are awesome. The older car is dingy but clean – even the washrooms (Canadian for bathrooms) are spotless. There is no food service, so you should pack a lunch and water. Near the top of Malahat Pass, the engineer stops on one of the higher bridges so everyone can have a look – which is scary as hell. It’s also a stunning view. Guided Tours Hiring tour guides is better than driving yourself around unfamiliar environs searching for cool things to check out. We worked with two companies that provide very different services. Midnight Sun Adventure Tours concentrates on outdoor adventure tours in western Canada and Alaska but will gladly customize your tour for something local around Victoria. Our guide and company owner Nina Bonner was amazing. We shortened our hike due to weather and took off on a tour of the communities north of the city. The highlight was a stop at Cherry Point Estate Wines, a beautiful winery with new owners. Their 2007 Bête Noire is to die for. Island Gourmet Trails is a one-woman operation out of Courtenay. Gaëtane Palardy is a chef and educator turned tour guide who will show you the local culinary wonders, and there are many. This is a small community and Gaëtane knows all the foodies. She can make calls in the middle of the tour to change things up if desired. We visited Natural Pastures
Steven Lane
Kenmore Air
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Celebrating 36 Years!
Cheese, Little Qualicum Cheeseworks, Fanny Bay Oyster Company, La Boulange Organic Breads, and Surgenor Brewing Company. We had an amazing time learning about the local producers and restaurateurs, but more importantly, we’d have never found half these places on our own.
EAT
Sleep The Beaconsfield Inn Victoria The Beaconsfield Inn is a classic Edwardian B&B located a short, 10-minute stroll from the Inner Harbour. Todd, the reclusive accountant from Edmonton, must be the nicest guy in Canada, and he makes a mean breakfast. Built in 1905, the Beaconsfield’s dark wood wainscoting, high ceilings, and
an landscape of water, islands, and mountains better than a huge hotel room with shin-to-ceiling windows on the 12th floor of a high-rise. The Coast Bastion is in the midst of a multi-million-dollar renovation, but the guest rooms are finished and they are gorgeous. The flatscreen TV is huge, but you’d be a nitwit to turn it on. There are also nifty green toilets with two flush cycles. We ordered room service for breakfast just to spend a little more time in our room watching the ships, boats, and floatplanes come and go. Every room has an ocean view and the Port Theatre (we saw Colin James kick off his Canadian tour) is next door, the waterfront is across the street, and upper and lower downtown are easy walks. Nanaimo could become the cultural center of Vancouver Island and the Coast Bastion is right in the middle of everything. Steven Lane
Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub Victoria Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub is not your average microbrewery. Spinnakers, a pioneer of the craft-brewing renaissance, is dedicated to bringing the local food movement to its zenith. They work hard to source the best local food all year long, and the ever-changing menu reflects those efforts. The menu sports root vegetables and greens in the winter and eggplant and tomatoes in the summer. They proudly offer Fanny Bay oysters and fresh cod from local waters, cooked up alongside locally produced cheeses and meats. Our host Dustin Sepkowski, a self-titled “malt enthusiast,” walked us through the Spinnakers Chef’s Table, a seasonal feast created by Chef Jeff Penner and his amazing crew. The Chef’s Table includes amuse bouche, appy (Canadian for appetizer), two courses, and dessert starting at $42. Add beer pairings for $50, add wine for $70, or you can be totally decadent and get everything for $78. Call ahead, whether ordering something special or stopping in for a sandwich.
savvy folks doing some fun things there. The Modern Café is one of those fun things run by savvy folks. Posh without being pretentious, the food is awesome and the atmosphere rocks. The vintage neon sign circa 1940 is a registered historical landmark, and the jazz bounces off the red brick walls with verve. Sandwiches will set you back $10 to $15, and entrees are a bit more. This is the smart place to be in a town with a rather surprisingly sophisticated artistic bent (al-
Fish Tacos from Atlas Cafe
though the low-rent mall still sits next to the lovely Port Theatre where the Vancouver Island Symphony plays as a reminder of the town’s blue-collar past and its newfound cultured present). The sweet potato fries and the martinis rock. After dinner, you can Aura stroll upstairs to the Second Level (the name Victoria From Aura, the views of Victoria’s pictur- and the location), a Euro-style Queer-friendesque Inner Harbour are lovely. The interior ly nightclub that would be right at home on design is sleek without being pretentious. Rue St. Denis in Montreal. World-renowned chefs cook up a sumptuAtlas Café ous mix of West Coast Pacific Rim inspired Courtenay dishes with a nod to the old world, a unique The further north you go up island the farcreative flair, and a focus on local ingredients. This is Aura, the brand-new restaurant ther you get from the cheeky tourists that pepper Victoria’s grand Inner Harbour. For in the Inn at Laurel Point. Aura opened last summer and award-win- some reason, I thought finding inventive litning chef Brad Horen hasn’t looked back, tle restaurants would be tougher up there. I creating a menu that is comfortably famil- couldn’t have been more mistaken. The Atlas Café is a stylish little joint in the heart of iar, yet unlike anything before. We started with the wild chanterelle ri- Courtenay, serving up an eclectic mix of fusotto and duck poutine, both about $14. The sion food that shouldn’t work, but does. The risotto, with chanterelles, pearl onions, and decor is warm, exposed wood and funky a roasted hazelnut emulsion, was smooth, tile, the staff is charming, and the kitchen is serious. Our server Lisa was cute and sassy rich, and nutty. Poutine, a native Canadian dish origi- and knew the menu inside out. I would have nating in Quebec, is generally a cheap fast loved her even if she’d been an awful waitfood dish consisting of French fries, fresh er, but I didn’t have to make that effort. We cheese curds, and gobs of brown gravy, and started with the inari pockets stuffed with is served everywhere from street vendors to local house-smoked (I told you the kitchen Burger Kings up north. Aura’s version went was serious) wild salmon, Japanese rice, upscale, of course. A crispy duck confit was and avocado served over miso tahini greens. served atop Natural Pastures cheese curds I moved on to the fish tacos made with fish and potatoes fried in duck fat. Duck fat of the day and wild salmon dribbled with an ancho pepper aioli served with fruit salsa, makes everything perfect. For my entree I had the pan-roasted bacon- Caesar salad, and firecracker rice. Stewrapped sablefish. The sablefish was served ven had the peanut stir-fry, a spicy mix of with truffle potato perogie, salsify (the root sautéed vegetables with peanut sauce and of a flowering plant better known as goat’s brown basmati rice. The menu is a blend of beard), and cassis-braised red cabbage. Mexican, Italian, and Asian dishes, all made Steven tried the pomegranate-glazed duck with an affectionate local twist. Expect to breast with roasted apple stuffing, potato pay about $8 for an appy and $10-$15 for puree, pomegranate mandarin salad, Brus- an entree during lunch. Dinner entrees range sels sprouts, and baby carrots. Aura’s out- from $15-$25. rageously handsome manager Chris Jones picked out a local Pinot Noir that worked beautifully with the fish and duck. Aura is truly a special place. The service is excellent, the atmosphere is chic but comfy, and the food is absolutely world class at fairly reasonable prices. No wonder Where Canada magazine voted it one of the top 10 new restaurants in Canada for 2009.
antique furniture make it hard to leave for a day of sightseeing. The best treat is coming back late in the evening where a bottle of complimentary sherry is waiting to warm you up before you walk up the pleasantly creaking stairs to the room. Helpful hint: Don’t stare too long at the painting of the creepy little girl overlooking the bed. The Inn at Laurel Point Victoria Inn at Laurel Point is two hotels in one. The old section is a reasonably priced hotel with conventional (but nice) rooms with great views of the Inner Harbour. The new section is a world-class, upscale experience built of glass with a funky collection of art and spectacular views of the Inner Harbour. After a $5 million renovation finished in 2008, the Inn at Laurel Point is better than ever. It’s consistently voted one of the top 25 Canadian hotels by Condé Nast Traveler and that in large measure has to do with their commitment to guest service and their motto, “Stay Different.” The 30-year history of the locally owned hotel and its eccentric owners is a story unto itself. Ask one of the attentive staff and they’ll be happy to share a little of it with you.
Kingfisher Resort and Spa Comox Valley I’ve never considered myself a resort spa sort of guy. My vacations are spent on the go. Resort spas seem like faraway places where people go to actually relax and maybe get a little healthier, mentally and physically. After visiting Kingfisher Oceanside Resort and Spa, I’m trying to figure out why this concept didn’t appeal to me sooner. A couple of days sitting beside the ocean, swimming in the heated pool, taking massages and hot tubs, and getting seaweed facials will do wonders for the body and soul. One of the most interesting features of this growing resort is the Pacific Mist Hydropath, a mystical indoor hydrotherapy facility that recreates a West Coast shoreline through eight unique water features carved into the sandstone-sculpted caves and pools. Those features range from the relaxing massage rinse to the steam cave to the sea mineral soak to the tidal baths, complete with seaweed scrub. Be sure to brave the glacial waterfall; it’s sure to wake you up. Go late when it’s less busy and you can go straight to bed where you’ll sleep like Jessica Simpson at lecture on modern critical theory. Customer service is amazing, from the front desk to the restaurant to the spa.
Coast Bastion Hotel Nanaimo Nothing shows off the British Columbi-
Modern Café Namaimo Nanaimo may be known as a bucolic little seaside community famous for totem poles and odd architecture, but there are also some
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February 19, 2010
Seattle Gay News 13
Hawaii’s Big Island huge on thrills and adventure by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer
Richard J Kruse III and Lisa C. Rosprim
STAY Hawaii Island Retreat at Ahu Pohaku Ho’omaluhia (www.hawaiiislandretreat.com) is a paradisal escape in itself, a boutique eight-room property cradled by tall evergreens, sacred ceremonial grounds, and total quiet – except for the chirping of birds and the
‘Akaka Falls
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occasional slap of an ocean wave, you can cation is perfect if your expeditions reside rest in complete silence. It’s an hour’s drive on the Eastern part of the island. I actually from the Kona airport, just past the town of liked this hotel a lot, despite its non-luxuriHawe, at the end of a five-minute dirt road ous accommodations – the dinner buffet at Queen’s Court Restaurant was random yet incredible, the rooms are well-priced (starting at $195), parking is complimentary, and the lobby bar was an unexpected blast. You’re likely to see film crews and celebrities here, because the hotel is often home to Hollywood professionals when shooting motion pictures near Hilo. Note that the Hilo Hawaiian is sold out for the upcoming Merrie Monarch Festival (www.merriemonarchfestival. org) in April. Mila Zinkova
A thousand-foot zip line over a tropical forest and winding river. Mountain biking at speeds up to 35mph through a volcanic park. Stargazing on lava rocks with the sound of nearby crashing waves. Surfing, snorkeling, paddle-boarding, nature hiking, shark spotting and bird watching. It all happens on the Big Island. The largest of Hawaii’s chain of islands and the one farthest south, it boasts some of the best land and water to do just about anything under the bright sun. This is the place to rough it, and when you’re finished doing that you can kick back on a sandy beach with a mai tai. A bonus, especially for a novice thrill-seeker like me, is that many of the instructors and tour operators for these adventurous excursions are fit, caramel-skinned, good-looking men. Nonstop flights on Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair. com) between Seattle and Kona are six hours in length, or fly to Honolulu and take a 35-minute hop to the Big Island aboard Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianair.com). Just how big is the Big Island? Well, it takes
three hours to get from the typically sunny Kona side to the normally rainy Hilo side, and the drive through tree tunnels and lush valleys is an experience all its own. Visit www.bigisland.org to plan your vacation. Here’s how I suggest spending an adventurous week on the Island of Hawaii.
DO From kayaking to sky diving to sunrise lava tours, there’s no limit to the thrilling Eruption of Halema`uma`u vent at Kilauea things to do on the Big Island. I’m a light in the woods. Just when you think you’re adventurer, so here are my top three recomlost, bam! The glow of the retreat’s lighted, mendations. open-air lobby appears out of nowhere, and Bike Volcano (www.bikevolcano.com) unlike the fictional setting of Fantasy Is- provides an amazing adventure for Big Island, this is an actual hotel with individually land visitors: an opportunity to spiral down named rooms (I stayed in the Crimson Royal and through an active volcanic area on Poinciana room) and spacious balconies to mountain bikes at speeds of up to 35mph. bask in isolation. While the property is eco- Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is locatfriendly right down to its organic and near- ed in the town of Volcano, Hawaii and is vegetarian menus, the amenities and decor roughly a 35-minute drive from downtown are modern. A spa, wall-free yoga studio Hilo. Allow for a five-hour, 15-mile trek amid volcanic craters, tropical flora, and and infinity pool are also on the premises. The details were priceless, like the home- winding roads. It’s a breathtaking experimade banana bread on my bedroom table ence that ends with a wine tasting (optional) and the cinnamon bath crystals next to my and includes equipment rental and packaged tub. The staff, loved and cared for by their lunch. Tour groups average 10 to 15 people, delightful owners, extend lots of TLC to the and our cute and adorable leader Kaipo was retreat’s guests. Two notes on staying here: quite patient with stragglers. Shuttle pickpack bug spray, because mosquitoes are ups at the Hilo Hawaiian are available. abundant, and dinner is prepared by special KapohoKine Adventures (www.kaporequest, so plan on driving into Hawe for hokine.com) offers a nerve-tingling good at least one of your evening meals. A mini- time on the Big Island with a zip line exmum two-night reservation is required, and cursion nestled in the picturesque Umauma for an added cost you can be picked up at Falls, complete with a staff of strapping young lads to harness, guide, and catch you the airport. The Fairmont Orchid (www.fairmont. in their arms (literally!) through its zig-zag com/orchid) lies beachside on the Kohala course. You need big kahunas, as the locals Coast, a half-hour drive from the Kona air- say, to swing through its five high lines of port. It’s a massive property, housing not swinging fun, and a little prayer never hurts just 540 available rooms, but the 32 acres – seriously, though, the utmost safety is of land it’s situated on encompasses tennis guaranteed at all times. The final zip line is courts, a 10,000 square-foot pool, 36-hole 1,000 feet long and about 200 feet off the golf course, four restaurants (including ground. One line in particular had me rapthe dynamite Brown’s Point), two separate pelling down a tall pole, and while I prebar-lounges, high-end retail shops, fitness pared for the worst, I reached the bottom center, and a spa. Rooms are elegant, with in seconds and was quickly comforted by unbeatable views of the water or Kohala a couple of those sexy, rugged assistants. mountain range, and amenities are top of A Hawaiian-style barbecue with the works the line. On-premise activities include sand (grilled teriyaki chicken, guava-braised ribs, volleyball, turtle snorkeling, golf clinics, cole slaw, beer) is included in the price. Stargazing must be done on the Big Ispilates, canoe paddling, and ocean aerobics. If you’re special (or want to feel like land, and there are high points like Mauna it), the Gold Floor is posh and privacy at an Kea Observatories (www.ifa.hawaii.edu/ unparalleled level – it boasts very large and mko) where visitors can go for better views, immaculate rooms, separate commode and but my travel companions and I found an shower stall, personal care products, con- excellent spot in Kalapana, in the Puna discierge to assist with unique requests (i.e. trict (aka “The Wild, Wild East”). Get a map they tracked down my lost camera case with from your hotel, drive about 40 minutes credit cards in minutes), and an attractive from Hilo, and go to this cul-de-sac in the Gold Floor lounge to enjoy complimentary middle of nowhere – though it’s very popbreakfast, snacks, coffee and internet ser- ular with tourists, so you won’t be alone; vice. The Fairmont Orchid is my idea of an there’s even a kawa bar for your added pleasure. Here, on solid lava rock, the stars A-list vacation. Lastly, the Hilo Hawaiian (www.cas- number in the millions, it seems, and the extleresorts.com) is a large, dated hotel with perience is both fascinating and eerie. Wear an unintended splash of kitsch, but the lo- comfortable shoes and carry a flashlight.
Celebrating 36 Years!
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February 19, 2010
Seattle Gay News 15
tokyo
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of it. Later, as the beer courses through your system, the charming host announces that it’s karaoke time. Within minutes, people stand up and begin singing both English and Japanese tunes – I sang Lady GaGa’s “Poker Face” and Madonna’s “Dress You Up” to strong applause. Book in advance of your trip or from your hotel, and don’t forget your camera, because the sights are unforgettable. asianpictures.org
are luxurious in design with Western-style amenities, and bathroom supplies include toothbrushes, razors and shaving cream. Hotel Nikko has four restaurants, including the ample and chic Ocean Dining, and several lounges, like the immaculate Captain’s Bar, that stay open until midnight or 1 a.m. An indoor pool, aqua treatment room, spa, fitness area and business center complete the amenities. Most staff members speak a bit of English, and the front reception desk will exchange U.S. dollars for yen during daytime business hours. More centralized hotels worth suggesting are Keio Plaza Hotel (www.keioplaza.co.jp) in Shinjuku and Hotel Conrad (www.conradhotels1.hilton. com) in Shiodome. The Shinjuku Ni-Chome district, the Gay section of the city, is about five minutes east of the Shinjuku train station. This is a very popular district in the heart of Tokyo, so be prepared to stand amongst thousands of people at any time, especially at night. If light bothers you, be prepared to wear shades because Shinjuku is a series of never-ending Las Vegas strips. Gay foreigners are usually welcome at bars like Arty Farty (2F, No. 33 Kyutei Bldg), Rehab Lounge (2F Sensho Bldg., 2-13-16), Usagi (corner of blocks U and V), and pickup hotspot GB (B1, Shinjuku Plaza Bldg.), but you might come across one that is only for locals – the bouncer will simply form a cross symbol with his arms to notify you that visitors are not allowed. Expect, of course, tons of Japanese men at these lounge/dance clubs, which tend to be very smoky inside. For a sex club experience, try HX (1F, UI Bldg., 5-9-6). If you’re not staying in the area, remember that train service can end as early as midnight. Eat and drink at New York Bar, featured prominently in the Oscar-winning film Lost in Translation. The tony lounge is located on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel, and because it’s in a near-secluded area, I recommend taking a cab from the Shinjuku train station for 1,000 yen ($10 U.S.). En-
tering the ornate hotel is like going to a fine museum. You’ll have to take two separate elevators to reach the top floor, one to the 41st floor and another that ascends to the New York Bar. Reservations are needed for the restaurant, but drop-ins are politely escorted to the lounge, which charges a 2,000 yen ($20 US) cover fee Monday through Saturday to listen to fabulous live jazz music. Sexy young Americans and Europeans flood the space, where one bottle of cold
Rainbow Bridge
Sapporo will set you back 1,100 yen ($11). Flash photos are permitted, as is pretending to be Scarlett Johansson. I would then suggest performing some karaoke on a yakatabune, a traditional Japanese riverboat/dinner cruise that originated during the Heian Period as a form of entertainment for the aristocracy. A modern version of this custom is to board a small boat at the foot of Tokyo Harbor operated by Harumiya (www.harumiya.co.jp). It’s a two-hour cruise that begins with a sit-down meal of sashimi, tempura, steamed rice, pickled vegetables and beer – an unlimited amount
THE SECOND 24 HOURS Visit Tsukiji Fish Market, the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world. The public is invited and granted free admission to watch early-morning auctions of the much-prized tuna, and when I say early I’m talking about the wee hours of 5 to 6:15 a.m. The Japanese are the second-biggest consumers of fish on the planet, and the purchase of it is a huge deal, as evidenced by the dramatic and intense bidding wars that happen at sunrise. Watching everything from live blowfish to just-caught eel to fresh octopus is a rather interesting learning ex-
perience – not recommended for those opposed to fishy smells, and definitely wear a pair of water-resistant shoes. Shop and be seen in Harajaku, a wellknown district in Tokyo made even more famous by pop star Gwen Stefani in the song “What You Waiting For?” Fashion houses by top clothing designers line the streets here, as do the innovatively dressed real stars of the neighborhood, the Harajaku girls. It’s fun just to people-watch, but there is an assortment of expensive and semi-expensive retail boutiques to shop at, providing you’ve got the plastic. To access Harajaku simply get on the Yamanote Line (JR East train) and disembark two stops north of Shinjuku station. Walk or ride on the Rainbow Bridge, gorgeously lit up at night, which connects the newer Tokyo Harbor vicinity and metropolitan Tokyo. Remember the scene in Kill Bill Vol. 1 when Uma Thurman rides a motorbike in Japan en route to kicking Lucy Liu’s ass? This is where it was shot, on this very bridge that can be traversed on foot or by train – in fact, one of my strongest recommendations is to take the monorail from Odaiba to central Tokyo at night for an amazing, rollercoaster-like experience. Before getting onto the bridge, the train makes a semi-circle loop and then zips across it in a matter of minutes, and the views of the city are impeccable – seriously, I took four nightly trips on the monorail for about 360 yen, one-way ($3.60 US) and felt like a kid at Disneyland. Buy cheap stuff at 100-yen shops spread throughout Tokyo, like the one just steps from Harajaku train station (ask for Daiso Harajaku). Here, for the equivalent of 1 U.S. dollar, you can load up on stationery items, rice bowls, hammers, watering pots, pingpong sets, shoelaces, pocket dictionaries, mascara and plastic sake cups. You might not find exactly what you’re looking for to bring back home, but you’ll tell no lies to friends and family members when you say that it was purchased in Japan. Upgrade the fun of this excursion by slamming a few pints of Japanese beer – Kirin, Asahi, or Sapporo – before you go in.
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EntEr to Win a DrEam Vacation at:
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February 19, 2010
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mexico
continued from cover concern to me. For Joey, leaving the United States for an extended period of time is still a bit scary, so Mexico got the top slot, where you can get on a bus, or – if you’re really desperate – simply stick out your thumb and go.
The ruins at Tulum overlooking the sea
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PURE LUXURY Our third and final full day in Mexico had not been planned out specifically, leaving a little feeling of relaxation in an otherwise hurried schedule. We got sandwiches, juice, and chips for breakfast at a convenience store tucked in among the clubs and souvenir shops of the Hotel Zone. On the way back we stopped at a real estate office I had spotted before we ate. Miguel Reyes of Firma Investments greeted us cordially. I had to explain the very limited resources I’ll have to work with. It didn’t sink in at first. He thought I was talking about having 25,000 pesos a month to spend on housing. When I told him the amount was around one tenth of that he looked crestfallen, but explained that there were still options to explore. A lot for a mobile home, not very close to the beach, or an apartment in an urban neighborhood seem to be the best options, unless our house recovers at least half of the value it has lost in the economic slump. In that case, a beachfront condo or lot could become a reality. I left with his e-mail address in hand. The business of enjoying our remaining time then took the front seat. Joey and I had a leisurely walk along the beach. The water was gorgeous and inviting. I was footsore from our explorations, and the white sand and the surf felt wonderful on my bare feet. I couldn’t convince Joey to put on his trunks and take a dip with me; he wanted to take a nap. I suspect he harbors a secret fear of sharks. I was anxious to go swimming – at least this hadn’t changed. The beautiful blue-green water was cool and refreshing as I waded in. I had to pay attention as I floated through the low waves, so the current didn’t carry me too far from the hotel, giving me just enough exercise to remind me I wasn’t languishing in a shallow backyard pool. The sun was burning my forehead more, so I reluctantly left the water. I’d already lost my land legs and had trouble staggering back on to dry land. I washed the salt from my pores under the beachside shower. Lying on a chaise lounge in the shade, the warm sea breeze wafting over me, could not be mistaken for anything but pure luxury. Later I found Joey in a similar position, but in the sun. After we had dinner and a stroll I had another swim, in the pool this time. There had been an attempted attack at the airport, so we prepared for a long, complicated day of travel. The grind of the air travel routine was tiring, and American Airlines didn’t offer so much as a bag of peanuts to eat. Finally, the trudge back up the hill to the house was exhausting, and the prospect of an early morning start to get the SGN out to everybody was daunting, but none of it could get that taste of our tropical paradise out of my mouth.
February 19, 2010
sun, sand, and water. Finally we wound up our visit there with freshly squeezed orange juice in the village that has grown up by the highway. We turned inland and once more headed for Coba. Again it rained, and again it cleared before we got out of the car. This site dates from the Late Preclassic period. The structures here are more spread out than at many other sites, and the relatively low level of excavation lead one to believe that it may become a much more important place in the future. Stelae, which are typically dedicated to deities or carry a succession of panels relating historical events, are common here as they are farther to the South. It is an art form which can be observed at its apex at Copan, in Honduras; due to both the masterful stone carving there, and the harder stone which was used, the sharp detail in those examples has survived. Although dwarfed by the scale of the great ball court at Chichen, the two ball courts here are very interesting because of the variation in design from others in the Mayan world. The main pyramid rises well above the forest canopy. It shows little of the exterior decoration that once covered it, but visitors are still allowed to climb it. I thought it would be a fitting end if I collapsed of a coronary, in the heat of the afternoon sun, on its steep stairway. A chain is provided as a handhold for the faint of heart. I couldn’t debase myself that way, reaching out only occasionally to steady myself on a higher step with my fingertips. The view from the top is worth the climb for the intrepid ruins-roamer. Many of the smaller structures can be seen, as well as the glint of the waters of Lake Coba and Lake Macanxoc.
joseph p. herron
during my absence, and giving an additional tip upon finding it undisturbed on my return. With all of the preliminaries out of the way, we finally entered the site. The Castillo rising majestically above us brought me back to the first time I saw it standing over the tropical savannah. There are striking differences now compared to my last visit, now over 35 years ago. The grounds are much more open because of the ongoing excavations, which have resulted in numerous discoveries. The familiar structures have also received additional restoration. Visitors are not presently allowed to climb the monuments at Chichen, nor is access permitted to the interior of any of the major attractions, including the Plaza of a Thousand Columns. There is hope for the future, though; climbing is now once again permitted at the huge central Mexican site of Teotihuacan. One benefit of the restrictions is that the devoted monument climber is spared the curse of the garrapatas – an infestation of ticks. Several hours are required to view the entire site. Our early-morning start seemed to pay off, and despite the lengthy time we spent touring there it seemed we might have time to squeeze in another Mayan site that day, so we sped toward Coba. I had never been there, and the guidebook promised enough time to see the primary structures, but once again my book had misinformed us; the site was closed to admissions by the time we arrived, although those inside still had an hour CHICHEN ITZA The first full day of our visit dawned warm to leave. but partially cloudy. We had decided that the TULUM AND COBA day would be spent showing Joey Chichen The second day was supposed to be dediItza, one of the greatest Mayan cities dating from the Classic period, and the most awe- cated to exploring possible places to live, inspiring of the Mayan sites in Mexico – and with a side trip to the Postclassic site of Tuperhaps anywhere. I had intended to take the lum. I kept my intention to return to Coba secret. As we made our way South along the coast the extent of the change to the area was apparent; we passed one resort after another all the way to Playa del Carmen. Soon we were at Tulum, which was a thriving town for decades after the Spanish conquest. In terms of size, it is definitely a secondary or even tertiary site, but its magnificent setting – perched on low cliffs above the Caribbean – make it one of the most popular for tourists. The almost constant wind makes the use of both hats and parasols difficult, resulting in a minor burn below my ever-rising hairline. Here, again, 18
continuing excavations have revealed new discoveries, and the heavy tourist traffic has put close examination of the structures offlimits. It seemed odd that in the early ‘70s my friend Chris and I had been able to sleep naked on the beach below, undisturbed except by the land crabs that crawled over us all night. The other unique feature of Tulum is the bathing beach that is provided for visitors. This turned out to be the single biggest time consumer, as Joey didn’t easily tire of admiring the young men enjoying the
joseph p. herron
ARRIVING IN PARADISE The state of Quintana Roo is laid out along the Caribbean coast of Mexico. From Chetumal, the capital, in the south, to Cancun in the north, to its proximity to the remnants of ancient Mayan culture, it offers more that interests me than any other choice. Of course, it wouldn’t do to just prepare for such a serious relocation and commit to it all at once when the time comes. A trip to do some firsthand research seemed the only way. As always, expense was the primary obstacle, but thanks to an unexpected windfall and a helpful old friend, it became possible. Time was the next problem; only a few days could be spent away from the Seattle Gay News, but we managed to squeeze it in. The best prices offered in my websearch demanded layovers so long that our already short schedule would be left with little time to enjoy at our destination. Quicker connections meant additional costs, but the alternative was four days dominated by travel instead of two. Finally, the itinerary was established. Even though our departure time was late in the morning, we got to bed early to allow for the tedious and time-consuming security routine – the bane of the modern air traveler. The security check-in – helped along slightly by the strategic wearing of slip-on deck shoes – went fairly quickly. In due time, we were flying over the cloud-shrouded Rockies and the snowswept landscape of the higher altitudes of the Southwest. We descended across Texas into Houston, where we were spared the task of finding our departure gate by a friendly would-be NASCAR driver who instead finds himself behind the wheel of an airport shuttle. Perhaps it was my graying hair and slight limp that prompted him to offer his services; anyway, we were whisked to our interim destination amid the sometimes raucous comments of his passengers. Darkness fell as we boarded our flight to Cancun; within minutes after take-off we were over the Gulf of Mexico. The scattered lights of the vessels below were the only breaks in the darkness until the Yucatan Peninsula came into view. What had been too small to even be called a village sprawled below us in a dazzling blanket of lights across the flat landscape. A warm and sultry evening greeted us when we got off of the plane. I was placed behind the wheel of a red Renault sub-compact and found the hotel with a little help from a security guard.
regular highway through the villages and towns so that Joey could see a little of what Mexico was like, but I found myself on the expressway instead. I resigned myself to spending the approximately $20 in tolls in exchange for the extra time it would give us at the site. The site now boasts a well-guarded paid parking area, which alleviates the concern of theft. My previous experience with a vehicle in Mexico taught me another effective method: hiring a local boy to watch the car
Celebrating 36 Years!
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