the 15th anniversary issue
issue no. 45
06 Faces & Spaces
Sarah Spellings, former STITCH Editor in Chief, talks cowboy boots, character growth, and her unfortunate flannel phase.
10 Covers Through the Years
To celebrate STITCH’s 15th birthday, join us as we look back at some of the magazine’s most iconic covers.
18 Glisten
Celebrating our 15th anniversary with the traditional gift of crystal, wrapped and presented with the classic STITCH flare.
38 You're Invited
For: STITCH's 15th Dress Code: Monochromatic Fun
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A letter to my 15-year-old self
Being 15 is tough. Being a model at 15 suffering from your first heartbreak is even tougher. Sometimes you just need some advice to get through, so why not be the one to do it?
34 The Power of Fifteen
Keeping Up With the Kardashians and Gossip Girl both premiered around 15 years ago, with one ending and the other rebooting this year. But is there a place for either show in 2021?
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EDITORS-IN-CHIEF Emily Burns + Radhika Rahlan PUBLISHER Daniella Ueki CREATIVE DIRECTOR Maxwell Han PRINT MANAGING EDITOR Giovana Gelhoren DESIGN EDITOR Grace Lougheed PHOTOSHOOT DIRECTOR Miranda Andrade PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Sarah Loper PRINT MANAGING EDITOR Sierra Turner MULTIMEDIA EDITOR Jay Towns SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR Sarah Filby DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Tiffany Xu
PRINT MANAGING EDITOR Nia Harris PHOTOSHOOT DIRECTOR Annika de Vogel PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Sara Gronich DIGITAL MANAGING EDITOR Jude Cramer ASSOCIATE EDITOR Ashley Capoot MULTIMEDIA EDITOR Maddy Daum CORPORATE DIRECTOR Michelle Godzanker MEMBERSHIP DIRECTOR Susan Tran
CORPORATE TEAM Olivia Corderi, Sophie DeBenedetti, Ananya Gupta, Hope Jin, Olivia Lee, Peyton Nibblett, Eric Smits, Ishika Vanwari + Hannah Yang DESIGN TEAM Ruth Ellen Berry, Jessica Chen, Izzy Chun, Isabelle Hauf-Pisoni, Michelle Hong, Agnes Lee, Bailey Richards, Margeaux Rocco, Sadd Sadd, Quynh-Nhi Tran, Ashley Xu + Meher Yeda EDITORIAL TEAM Tanitoluwa Adedibu, Rebecca Aizin, Amber Cohon, Olivia Evans, Vitoria Faria, Nicolas Gonzalez, Molly Van Gorp, Vaibhavi Hemasundar, Isabelle Kenagy, Michelle Kim, Lucia Schorr, Joely Simon, Christian Thorsberg, Carly Witteman + Gia Yetikyel MULTIMEDIA TEAM Lucia Bosacoma, Sharlene Burgos, Maria Caamano, Sophie D’Amato, Libby Markham, Catie Moore, Yola Mzizi, Linda Shi + Maria Valencia PHOTOGRAPHY TEAM Trin Collins, Grace Deng, Maryam Ikuforiji, Wyatt Morris, Jesse Noss + Kendall Wieland SOCIAL MEDIA TEAM Ashley Chin, Sara Frank, McKenna Frey, Kimberly Cruz Mendez, Isabella Moran, Emi Silverstein + Olivia Stone STYLING TEAM Sandra Alrifai, Anna Biasco, Daisy Brockhouse, Sophia Crum, Amina Elmasry, Julia Greenberg, Sean Malaisrie, Shea Randall, Melissa Santoyo, Lisa Vicini, Ava White + Mikayla Williams March 2021 03
"My fashion icon when I was 15 was the super fashionable girls in the grades above me in high school. I wish I could say I’m as fashionable as them now, but they’re still leagues above me."
"My fashion icon when I was 15 was definitely Jennifer Lopez. I remember watching American Idol with my family each week and being more excited to see what JLo was styled in that night than who got eliminated. Her outfits were most definitely not your everyday street wear but I was ~obsessed~ (to say the least) with how good she managed to look in every single outfit. "
"My fashion icon when I was 15 was (unfortunately) Bethany Mota –– there were too many floral skirts and polkadotted shirts in my closet."
"My fashion icon when I was 15 was definitely Emma Chamberlain in her VSCO girl era (and I stand by that). While I’ve retired the scrunchies and puka shell necklaces, I have to admit that I still pull out my sherpa jacket every now and then when I want to feel extra cozy at home."
contributors
thoughts F R O M
T H E
E D I TO R S
While this is the 15th anniversary, it’s also a celebration of the graduating seniors’ time on STITCH. As seniors who have been on STITCH since our first year at Northwestern, it’s a bittersweet moment for the both of us. STITCH has been such an incredibly large part of our Northwestern experience and there’s nothing more exciting than being able to watch that journey culminate in a commemoration of STITCH’s crystal anniversary. In order to truly celebrate and reflect upon how far STITCH has come, we reached out to founders Joyce Lee and Nathan Adkisson, asking them about their journey in creating STITCH. Joyce Lee, the very first Editor-in-Chief of STITCH, put it best in saying that “STITCH was founded as a platform for experimentation and creative expression,” an idea that we hope comes across in all of our work even today. It’s also no secret that the entire STITCH staff is on the team because of one uniting factor — our love for fashion. Founder Nathan Adkisson spoke to how this was the basis of the beginning of STITCH those fifteen years ago, stating “we were passionate about the subject matter — we spent many nights in the basement of Willard Hall arguing about the difference between fashion and style, and how the way someone chooses to present themselves to the world is a powerful, daily expression of personality and values.” While STITCH has changed over and over again since its inception in 2006, the love for fashion, for creativity, and for individual expression is something that we know STITCH will embody forever. This issue delves into all that STITCH has done over the past 15 years. From the Styling and Photography teams hosting a messy and delicious (and covid-compliant) celebration to Staff Writer Molly Van Gorp talking about the iconic 2006 fashion film The Devil Wears Prada to Designer Grace Lougheed highlighting some truly memorable STITCH covers to Staff Writer Erica Davis reflecting on previous articles, we’ve looked at STITCH from all angles. And we appreciate the growth the magazine has gone through over the years to be the publication that we see today. Without the amazing members past and current, STITCH would not be possible. As EICs, we cannot express how incredibly grateful and proud we are to have worked on this publication. So grab yourself some cake and some bubbles and join us as we toast to 15 years of STITCH!
Emily Burns + Radhika Rahlan
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hen Sarah Spellings was growing up, she majoring in journalism and international studies, she would zip up her houndstooth skirt suit, admitted to having a rigid approach to her endeavors slip her stockinged feet into platform and just “wanting to get from point A to B”. leather shoes, “I’m a Taurus. I’m very and head to the playground to stubborn,” Spellings joked. “I swing from the monkey bars in came into college thinking, style. ‘I’m going to be a straight-A “I’ve always wanted to student. I’m going to be project with my clothing valedictorian of Medill.’ And I that I was put together,” said was a very average student by Spellings. “I think that’s a really the end of it. I guess one of the nice thing to communicate ways I’ve learned to combat my to people: I’m here and I’m stubborn, inflexible nature is by looking my best for you.” just learning how to prioritize, Spellings, currently the by saying ‘I’m fine with not Fashion News Editor at Vogue being Medill valedictorian, but Magazine, graduated from I’m going to work my ass off Northwestern in 2017 and so I can be editor-in-chief of served as STITCH’s Editor in STITCH.” Chief from 2016 to 2017. When Spellings started off on reflecting on her childhood, STITCH’s photography team college years, and bustling and her fixed mindset initially career post graduation, she affected how she approached told me about how she came photoshoots. to be the woman she is today. “We would pore over The woman whose first big archival images of Steven purchase as an adult, years Meisel, and we would go into after wearing her houndstooth the photoshoot being like, skirt suit to the playground, was ‘Okay, this is the image we a Suistudio pantsuit in the exact want.’ And you know, they Spellings at senior prom, same pattern. would never be met,” Spellings her era of "peak preppiness" Spellings spent her early said. “I learned that it doesn’t childhood in the U.K. and have to be great like them. It Thailand, and both countries were critical in shaping can be great like us.” how she views fashion. In Thailand, Spellings attended In addition to challenging Spellings to roll with the Loy Krathong ceremonies and admired the traditional punches, STITCH was instrumental in shaping her Thai outfits. In the U.K., she was surrounded by a rich outlook on fashion in other ways. fashion history — both in high culture with the royal For example, it helped her learn more about fashion family and in the country’s punk subculture. history. Spellings was very preppy in high school. Through these unique experiences, Spellings Gossip Girl’s Blair Waldorf was her biggest style learned early on that fashion can communicate crucial inspiration. She could recall every outfit that Audrey aspects of our personality to those around us. Hepburn and Grace Kelly had ever worn, and she knew For Spellings, this includes her sense of humor, the entire masthead at Vogue. quick wit, and the thoughtfulness she puts into every At STITCH, she learned about all the designers interaction. Spellings has always known who she is and aesthetics that her peers were interested in and at her core. However, she’s also had to work through absorbed their excitement and knowledge. assumptions about herself and her life path, and yes, “That’s really similar to working at any magazine. a few regrettable fashion phases, to grow into the best Everyone’s coming in with their own unique interests, version of herself. and they’re very into what they’re into,” said Spellings. When Spellings entered Northwestern as a freshman “You can just sit there and soak it up like a sponge.”
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Spellings is also grateful that STITCH wasn’t trenddriven in her time. Instead, it let her explore fashion’s numerous possibilities. This playful outlook on fashion has stuck with her. “I think there’s a lot of pressure when you think about having a sense of style to fit into an aesthetic and define yourself by that. I totally get it because there’s such a comfort in being able to say ‘This is clearly what I am,’” Spellings said. “But I think the only way to approach your sense of style is just that immediate pleasure when you put something on.” Spellings said the people she finds most stylish are those who follow their own internal guides. To date, one of Spellings’ biggest fashion inspirations is Beatrice Hagney, Assistant Buyer at Bergdorf Goodman and a close friend she met at STITCH. “You look in Beatrice’s closet, and it’s a whole mix. She has Jean-Paul Gautier mesh tops, but she also has a dress from 1913. Whatever she puts it on, it just feels like Beatrice.” Although Spellings doesn’t adhere to a fixed look,
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she does find herself gravitating towards an “allAmerican style”: blue jeans, vintage tees and blazers. However, she always tries to incorporate elements of whimsy into her outfits, pieces she says “spark that sense of inner child.” For example, Spellings couldn’t help gushing excitedly about her new pair of Prada sunglasses.“These glasses have a little curlicue on the side, and I’m so in love with them. They’re so weird, and I think if I had to define the style, well they’re Prada, so there’s something Italian Rivera about them. Like kind of dolce vita. That’s not how I would ever define my style, but it works in my closet because it’s a little whimsical doodad and it makes me smile.” Spellings has nailed intuitive dressing. However, like any college student she also underwent a period of trend-hopping that most of us can relate to. She adopted the typical Northwestern student style of the time: leggings, Doc Martens, a cargo jacket, a puffer coat and an oversized flannel worn open over a long tank top.
Spellings and Hagney at a STITCH party
“I never want to repeat that flannel phase. There’s no whimsy in a flannel shirt,” Spellings laughed. In college, Spellings also started to incorporate aspects of Dallas style into her wardrobe. Spellings only moved to Dallas at the age of 12. Because of this, she didn’t regard herself as being a Texan until after arriving at Northwestern. She felt somewhat stifled by Dallas fashion, with its plethora of white jeans, wedges and bohemian tops. However, when she left, she decided there was a huge aspect of Dallas style that she wanted to incorporate—cowboy boots. “Cowboy boots became this big runway trend and coincided with this appreciation of Black western culture, but also campy Western culture like Dolly Parton. So you would see a lot of Western style in this super loud way that’s like, ‘Look at my boots.’ That’s never what I wanted to do,” Spellings said. “Finally I figured out how I wanted to incorporate western boots and have them be something that spoke to where my family came from without it being so loud that it swallowed an outfit and sucked the air out of the room. Ironically the way I found to wear my boots that felt most authentic to me was really similar to how men in Texas just wear their boots in general. Never thought I’d be taking style cues from the guys I went to high school with, but here we are.” Spellings is now an advocate for sustainable fashion, yet another passion that she developed in her time at Northwestern while working on an excess-themed STITCH photoshoot. “Looking back, I would probably change the name to consumption or mass production. It wasn’t excess
in terms of opulence. It was excess in terms of mass production,” Spellings said. “So we kind of styled all these looks in subtle variations of the same look—for example, blue jeans and a white top.” During Spellings’ time at STITCH, the magazine was shifting toward a more socially conscious approach overall. “When I started on STITCH, we had an issue that was called the ‘Issues’ issue, like the issues in fashion, and I think the biggest change I saw over my four years is that we no longer needed an issue to talk about issues in fashion,” Spellings said. “We addressed them in every issue.” Spellings joked that this shift was all about moving the magazine away from a white sorority girl outlook. “We wanted to make it more about how fashion affects people’s identity rather than what fashion to wear,” she said. Spellings learned at a young age that fashion can speak for us, and this lesson has made a lasting impact on her life. After graduation, she took up a position at her journalism residency site, The Cut. Now she works at Vogue. Spellings values that both publications align with her belief that there’s power in developing a personal style outside of fixed aesthetics. It’s about connecting with our inner child. Spellings’ inner child already knew that she wanted her style to present her best self to the world. Paradoxically, Spellings also takes a cue from her childhood self to not take her style too seriously. Who said that a houndstooth pantsuit can’t go with curlicue sunglasses and a pair of cowboy boots? March 2021 09
covers through the years To celebrate STITCH’s 15th birthday, join us as we look back at some of the magazine’s most iconic covers.
designed by Grace Lougheed
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AN
ANGEL DEVIL MEETS THE
A LOOK INTO THE DUALITY OF "THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA" BY MOLLY VAN GORP
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henever I make a playlist, “Vogue” by Madonna always manages to secure a spot in the line-up. Its lyrics, rhythm and energy just seem to compliment any and every activity. I’ve found that more often than not, a simple reminder to “let your body move to the music” is all you need. This runway anthem is really, as cliché as it may sound, the soundtrack to my life. It’s the theme song for my workouts, beach days, glam sessions, study sessions, and Metra rides. With “Vogue” on repeat, I promise you can manifest anything: a fact that has been proven time and time again by Andy, played by Anne Hathway, from “The Devil Wears Prada.” Undeniably, this movie holds a special place in the heart of any fashion enthusiast. Everything from the incredible outfits to the thrilling drama and quotable script is simply . . . iconic. It’s been a right of passage for new STITCH members to bond over “The Devil Wears Prada” movie night, and perhaps, to also learn what not to do when working for a fashion publication. I had the chance to talk with STITCH alum Beatrice Hagney about her experience working in the fashion industry as a buyer in jewelry at Bergdorf. She shared her thoughts on the movie, explaining that “A lot of people don’t take fashion seriously and think of it as a joke and a game. I think that is probably one of the 12
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DESIGNED BY RUTH ELLEN BERRY most important aspects of the movie . . . it adds a lot of gravity to the work people in the fashion industry are doing and that to me . . . when Andy learned that [it] held a lot of significance because it’s something people are so quick to dismiss.” “The Devil Wears Prada'' features one of the most beloved cinematic transformations: Andrea Sachs’s legendary makeover. With the help of her colleague and faithful confidant Nigel, the Medill grad goes from frumpy to fashionable, swapping her lumpy, robin egg blue sweater for Chanel and Jimmy Choo. Andy makes sure to treat us to numerous O.O.T.D.s after her wardrobe overhaul. In a scene out of a music video, Andy struts through the streets of New York in a series of chic ensembles. She dodges taxis, crosses Fifth Avenue, and saunters into work in a revolving whirl of trench coats, stilettos, and designer bags - all while “Vogue” plays on repeat. I owe much of my fashion obsession to “The Devil Wears Prada.” A Northwestern grad living in New York City, working for the top fashion magazine, with unlimited access to clothing, shoes, accessories, and miscellaneous tech gadgets gifted to your boss - what could be better? Fifteen years later, much of Andy’s glamorous life is still alluring, namely the thigh high boots and Paris Fashion Week invites. However, watching the film with a 2021 frame of mind reveals just how much has changed in a mere decade and a half.
THE LOOKS Emily: “How… Are you wearing the Ch…” Andy: “Chanel Boots? Yeah, I am.” If Andy, Emily, and Miranda were teleported to Evanston right this minute, they would be nothing short of Y2K aficionados. Minus a few of Emily’s questionable bohemian punk moments, many of the looks and pieces from this movie are trendy today, thanks to the Y2K and McBling resurgence. “The Devil Wears Prada” was released in 2006, in the heart of McBling (think Paris Hilton, shamelessly loud designer and low rise). Let’s take a look back and see which outfits make the cut for today’s 2000s spin off styles, and which might need to be left in 2006.
MONOCHROME Andy looks just as stylish as ever while navigating the morning rush hour in her monochrome look. She wears a cream, knee length formal coat, dainty white gloves paired with a silver, over the shoulder tote bag and grey, tweed cap. Right now, monochrome is chic as can be. If Natalie Biden’s inaugural pink ensemble isn’t proof enough, I don’t know what else is. Single tone sets are everywhere, from lounge wear to workout sets and formal wear. This outfit is definitely staying in our 2021 wardrobe.
TWEED HATS & CHUNKY ACCESSORIES Andy loves her tweeds and her caps. Tweed, at least in my mind, is synonymous with the late 2000s. Chanel has continued to push the tweed trend, even to this day. A Chanel runway show isn’t complete without at least one tweed skirt and matching blazer. Unfortunately, Andy might feel a little out of place with her tweed headpieces, unless she’s planning to attend a holiday tea. While this particular hat may no longer be the trendiest, there is something to be said about the gen-
eral spike in hat wearing. In fact, Miu Mui and Max Mara even released several leather, caplike hats over the past year. Additionally, brand name trucker hats are currently all the rage, particularly Von Dutch, La Ropa and Aviator Nation. Avant-garde necklaces and belts are staples in a Runway girl’s closet. Andy’s chunky Chanel necklace with its double C charms and large pearls is an unforgettable statement piece. Emily embraces the boho, hippie aesthetic that was popular in 2006 with her wide buckle belts and studded mini jackets. Lucky for Miranda's assistants, many of these accessory elements are making their way into the 2020s. Vivienne Westwood has single handedly revamped the once dowty pearl into a coveted streetwear item. Designer thrifting and consignment is hugely popular at the moment. Shops like Treasures of NYC and the Glencoe based North Shore Exchange specialize in marketing vintage designer pieces, many of which are 15 to 20 years old, to the modern consumer. The Chanel charm necklace reminds me of this type of repurposed designer piece. After all, Chanel is such a classic that their logo really never goes out of style; it’s all about how it’s paired and styled. Alas, Emily’s belts don’t have the same timeless quality. According to Patricia Field, the movie’s costume designer, Emily’s style is purposefully edgy to fit her bold character. She isn’t as classic as Andy, so her style feels more dated to the modern audience. March 2021 13
BUTTERFLIES Andy decides to drop the Paris trip bomb on Emily (i.e., she’s taking Emily’s spot for Paris Fashion week) in a blouse with pink, red and green gold studded butterflies. I must admit, this particular top is a source of controversy between me and my friends. I love it; they hate it. But no matter which team you’re on, we can unanimously agree that butterflies are a 2021 pop culture symbol. 15 years later and butterflies are still fluttering around, maybe not enlarged and bedazzled on a swoop neck organza blouse, but certainly in our Instagram bios.
BOOTS Nothing screams “The Devil Wears Prada” like a fabulous pair of heeled boots, specifically, the Chanel boots. Andy sports this boot when making her transformed fashionista entrance. She shocks Emily in a Ralph Lauren double buttoned blazer, green Fendi bag, new bangs, and of course, the Chanel boots. The thigh high and just-below-the-knee boot game in this movie is so on point. I adore a thigh high boot because they are so elegant, chic, and refined. Fendi’s January couture show reminded us of this fact as many of their models showcased high, slouch boots.
BOLD EYESHADOW Emily is three things: sassy, carb hating, and bad at blending. Granted, her green and blue eyeshadow choices are spectacular, and their spectacularity is only exacerbated by Emily’s constant, dramatic eye rolling. Bright eyeshadows are certainly still in, but beauty influencers and Vogue’s “Get Ready with Me” videos have taught us blending and setting strategies that help to ~soften~ those shocking aquamarines.
THE INDUSTRY “The Devil Wears Prada” offers insight into the early 2000s fashion industry - beyond the actual garments. Many aspects of the movie are overly dramatized for entertainment purposes (the quest for the unreleased “Harry Potter” book, Andy’s affair in Paris and Nigel’s fate). However, we do get a glimpse of what it was like to work for a major fashion publication like “Runway,” or at least what others perceived it to be like, in 2006. 14
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Hagney shared some insight into the current climate of the fashion industry. She says “It’s really difficult to make a general statement about ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ relating to the whole fashion industry. . . . it’s a very case by case basis. . . . I will say though, generally, I think the fashion industry does have a lot of issues in regards to progressing in the field of workers rights and respect for other people generally speaking. . . . Mental health isn’t something in the industry that people prioritize. . . . It’s something in the fashion industry that hasn’t been rightfully addressed.” She attributes these issues in part to a high pressure work environment, and in part, to the reality that “in fashion, you really hold yourself to such an intense standard of perfection. You have to look good. You have to perform well. And you have to maintain that for such a sustained period of time, and it’s all open to critique.” Although the intense work environment of Runway may not be in the rear-view mirror, many of the movie’s lines do fortunately feel outdated, especially regarding what it means to “fit into” the industry - both literally and figuratively. If you’re even vaguely paying attention when viewing this movie, the toxic body size commentary is impossible to miss. Miranda calls Andy the “smart, fat girl” while Nigel proposes a toast to Andy’s new “size four ass.” During the 10 minute lunch break, Andy asks “So none of the girls here eat anything?” Nigel matter-of-factly replies: ““Not since two become the new four and zero become the new two.” Whelp. That’s all I can say. These types of exchanges are less common today as body positivity messages have helped redefine beauty standards. Even couture and high fashion is begin-
ning to evolve, granted slowly. In a segment from the virtual “Vogue Forces of Fashion 2020” panelist event, IMG model Precious Lee spoke about her experience walking for Versace in the September 2020 show. She, along with two other women, was the first curve model to walk in a Versace runway show. According to Lee, “I always felt it internally. I’ve always felt the celebration inside myself. I always knew that I was capable. I never had a doubt that I wasn’t capable of doing something like Versace, and it just felt really rewarding to have Donatella agree with me.” And I am so glad she did. Models like Lee are completely transforming and redefining what it means to be beautiful and be “industry material.” Versace fall 2020 was a win, but it’s only the beginning . . . and at least we’ve moved beyond calling someone the “smart, fat girl.”
"IMAGINE HOW MUCH MORE WE CAN ACHIEVE OVER THE NEXT 15 YEARS" The narrow-mindedness doesn’t stop at Andy’s waistline. When she complains to Nigel about her impossible job and relentless boss, Nigel puts her in her place. To put it bluntly, he tells her to stop whining and step up to the plate (no comment here, but I will admit, I do see where Nigel is coming from). He confides in Andy, confessing “You think this is just a magazine, hmm? This is not just a magazine. This is a shining beacon of hope for... oh, I don't know... let's say a young boy growing up in Rhode Island with six brothers, pretending to go to soccer practice when he was really going to sewing class and reading ‘Runway’ under the covers at night with a flashlight.” This moment is always very touching to me; it’s the start of a ~beautiful friendship~ between Andy and Nigel. However, at least from
my perspective, his plight doesn’t quite align with 2021 norms. While there is certainly still stigma surrounding males interested in fashion, this stigma has largely disappeared.
WHAT WE CAN LEARN The relatively new sect of pop culture and branding - called “lifestyle” - has helped to break gender stereotypes. Fashion, sports, food, entertainment and beauty are now bundled into the catch-all “lifestyle” category. Brands like the Soho-based Kith epitomize what it means to be a lifestyle brand. Through clothing, shoes, accessories, books and even ice cream, they sell a sporty, urban-chic aesthetic to anyone, regardless of their gender or interests. Thanks to Gen Z, it’s safe to say that fashion has surged in inclusivity, which is something to celebrate! There is still so much work to be done, but the fact that Nigel’s comments seem less relevant a mere 15 years later means we’ve made progress. Imagine how much more we can achieve over the next 15 years? This piece wouldn’t be complete without addressing Andy’s questionable relationship with her boyfriend, Nate. In Hagney’s own words: “She should have dumbed her stupid boyfriend!” And I couldn’t agree more. Nate's constant guilt tripping and general lack of support is enough to illicit “screaming at the TV” Hagney says. She even admits “I turn off the movie when they show up to the fashion show before [Andy] leaves Miranda and throws the cell phone in the fountain.” Why isn’t Nate applauding his driven girlfriend for making major moves at Runway? At the same time, I can’t help but empathize with Nate, Andy’s friends, and poor Emily - at least slightly. Hagney says that watching Emily get mowed over by Andy is “very difficult to stomach.” “The Devil Wears Prada” has taught me that like Andy, we’re all a work in progress. We make mistakes, both personal and professional. Perfection is an impossible standard to reach. Now, more than ever before, we can truly “have it all,” - the amazing job, vibrant social life, and wonderful partner. But, there is still a cost. Andy has taught me to be gentle on myself and understand that sometimes you must make sacrifices for your own happiness and health - it's just that these should be self driven, self imposed, and at your own discretion, not at the discretion of a significant other, family member or friend. It’s your life, so live it how you want to! As Kourtney Kardashian famously said “My vibe right now is just living life.” This, too, should be your vibe for 2021, for the next 15 years and for the rest of your life. March 2021 15
FIFTEEN 'cause when you're fifteen
by Lucia Shorr Designed by Isabelle Hauf
Fifteen and feeling behind. Packing my bag for school, I stuff a red Brandy Melville tube top into my dark grey Kanken, zipping it carefully into the pouch that also holds my computer, an extra precaution. Tired of wasting minutes arguing as I attempted to sneak out of the house in an outfit my mother would deem either “entirely inappropriate” for school or simply slutty. I’d adopted the habit of changing into my real outfit in the bathroom of Lenny’s, the New York City breakfast chain where I stopped after getting off the subway in Times Square on the way to school. Crop tops were fashionable! I liked the way I looked at them, and the way I thought the boys at my high school would see me if I wore them. I wasn’t dressing for them, but I wanted them to see me.
You take a deep breath And you walk through the doors The halls of my public New York City high school held a daily talent show. Students adorning their best put-together outfits, performing their most gleeful giggles, and giving their best casual speeches. High-toed boot-clad seniors with their Dickies-wearing boyfriends holding hands while sharing an
iced coffee. Groups of athletic sophomore boys, eyes turned towards their phones while a group of junior girls’ eyes lit up and let outbursts of laughter as the younger boys answered their Snapchats from across the hall. Sneaking eye contact across the 20-foot space.
Count to ten Take it in This is life before you know who you're gonna be As freshmen, we hung out in the basement. Friend groups hadn’t solidified and between large group chats and mass
exoduses, girls cuddled in corners gossiping and boys slid bananas across the floor trying to knock over water bottles bowling pin style. The few couples who’d formed the past weekend at a party I wasn’t invited to walked laps around those of us sitting on the floor. I wondered what it was like to kiss a boy. To kiss a boy and come to school the next day holding hands. To kiss a boy and come to school the next day holding hands, walking around the basement in front of everyone else displaying our love and affection.
And your first kiss makes your head spin around I obsessed over the idea of my first kiss. Clutching the secret of my virgin lips close to my heart, imagining every girl had spent hours with their tongues tied to their brace-faced boyfriends. The anticipation was overwhelming, carrying mint gum and lip gloss on Fridays for the afterschool plans of hanging out in empty children’s playgrounds in the dark or the occasional party. I had dreams of water parks filled with boys but woke up each time the moment before a particular boy and I would leap down a slide and touch tongues on the way down.
When all you wanted Was to be wanted He was older than me and his mouth tasted like morning and sweat and kind of like hotdogs, but I pretended to like the way he tasted. I wanted his hands, I thought. I wanted the story they write for me to tell my friends, to write in my head and playback, analyze, and experience. I ran my hands through his hair and nibbled his ear like I was told to by TigerBeat magazine I had read in a store because my mom never let me buy them. Entirely out of my body this was someone else. I was sure I was behind, everyone was doing this. Our bodies separated by nothing but years and context, and the inch I re-created as he crept closer as we slept. I liked the way his arms looked around me but I hated the way they felt. I wanted to be wanted, I thought, but I didn’t want this. We drove, he clutched my leg, I pretended to laugh at his jokes and felt sick when I got home.
'Cause when you're fifteen,
"THIS
IS LIFE BEFORE YOU KNOW WHO YOU'RE GONNA BE
"
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glisten Celebrating our 15th anniversary with the traditional gift of crystal, wrapped and presented with the classic STITCH flare.
Photographed by: Jesse Noss Directed by: Annika de Vogel, Max Han, & Miranda Andrade Styled by: Daisy Brockhouse, Julia Greenberg, & Shea Randall Models: Amaya Scott & Valeria Rodriguez Designed by: Michelle Hong
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"Dear Politicians" "Dear Politicians" by Nathan Adkisson "Dear Politicians" Revisiting
BY ERICA DAVIS DESIGNED BY BAILEY RICHARDS
In October 2006, three Northwestern students sat in PickStaiger Concert Hall and created STITCH magazine. Six months later, a 30-page issue full of kitschy early 2000s motifs and niche fashion jokes was released to the public. In The Last Word, a section reserved for an especially poignant piece, Nathan Adkisson, one of the founders, took a shallow dive
to edit articles and designing and redesigning spreads, we deserve a few confetti tosses and maybe an extravagant cake or two. But as we look to the future of our publication, we must also look back. Reflecting on how we have caused harm and to whom is equally as important as breaking out the streamers and balloons. As I flipped through our first
"Reflecting on how we have caused harm and to whom is equally as important as breaking out the streamers and balloons. " into the world of political fashion, criticizing women politicians for their appearances and suggesting value on The Hill lies in wearing miniskirts. “Women candidates: you have to know that sex sells. You will never win the top spot in the White House until you embrace your femininity and at least try to be hot. Okay, Nancy Pelosi, we know that’s a stretch, but don’t you have a daughter? Just because the men wear suits doesn’t mean you have to. We let you wear pants, and now we think even that was a bad idea. The miniskirt was invented for a reason. Gianni Versace is rolling over in his grave,” Adkisson wrote. On our crystal anniversary, it's important to celebrate. For 15 years of back-and-forth with the printing company, staying up late 24
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issue from Spring 2007, I was amused by the sophomoric photoshoots and the out-of-touch fashion spread recommending a $248 Lula clutch and $798 Gustto bag. When I reached the last page, I was no longer smiling. Opening the piece with a bang, Adkisson suggested more grad students should run for the House of Representatives so that girls in miniskirts would be walking around the Capitol. As the piece continued, Adkisson insisted politicians should buy flowered swimsuits for the campaign trail and “get their bloated selves” to a Sunglasses Hut. Offensive, yes, but also bold to assume a candidate for the U.S. Senate walking the streets in a Billabong two piece would be fashion forward instead of
questionable. Alas, in the fashion world, you have to be willing to allow for growth. If we annuled our relationship with every publication, designer and model who made discriminatory remarks or invoked bigoted stereotypes, there would be few fashion experts left. So what does Adkisson have to say about his piece 15 years later? “I'm appalled and embarrassed. Reading it now, it sounds so tone deaf and it's really terrible. The intent was for that back page to be snarky humor, edgy, and in those days, it seemed like that might be okay and that might be appropriate. But when I read it now, it's disgusting, and I can’t stand by it,” Adkisson says. As a creative director for the experience design studio Local Projects developing immersive museums, Adkisson remains in the realm of high culture, which has undergone drastic changes in the past decade and a half. What would once have passed as edgy humor and opinionated jabs is now regarded as what it is, an article propped up by cheap sexist shots. It’s beneficial for our society as a whole that those working in fashion have begun to think more critically about who is affected by the persistent use of stereotypes. But past mistakes don’t only remain in the past; they discreetly pervade and reinforce the foundation of systemic issues today. Adkisson , for one, is cognizant of his part in upholding
some of the social issues he says he’s involved in protesting today. “I don't think the space of time makes it okay. I think that the space of time can give context, but it still doesn't make it okay. So I think what's happened is that our lenses
have been sharpened, and I certainly know I'm not the only one who's made mistakes like this, I think many of us have,” he said. “Maybe it takes not just seeing a mistake that someone else made, but that you made yourself, to really realize how systemic and cultural views like that can be and how much they need to change.” It would be easy to let Adkisson’s piece disappear into the void of old magazine issues with oversaturated covers and outrageous fashion recommendations. But Adkisson was one of the founders of STITCH, and thus STITCH is foundationally rooted in discrimination. Throughout our 15 years, STITCH hasn’t always done an amazing job at including and catering to students outside of the exclusive bubble we were established in. History is inescapable, even for a young magazine like ours. STITCH isn’t alone in having an ugly history of disguising discrimination as fashion criticism. Sexism and fatphobia, alongside issues of pervasive racism and classism, are intertwined with the
rise of most of the biggest names in the realm of fashion media. Elle Magazine faced controversy for lightening the skin of models in the magazine,
Cosmopolitan Philippines photoshopped Riverdale stars to look thinner, and Vogue admitted to a “hurtful and intolerant” culture that didn’t allow adequate space for Black artists. As we continue to grow as a publication, these are things we are considering. What parts of the world of culture and fashion do we want to embrace, and what parts do we have to consciously critique and abandon? Acknowledging who we were and how our staff allowed such an article to be published is how we can work through this and begin to repair the disconnect with parts of the Northwestern community. When we blow out our candles (in a COVID-safe way, of course), Adkisson’s piece doesn’t disappear into the darkness. Instead, it's fuel to push beyond the tempting conformity and exclusivity of celebrity fashion and beauty tips that cover the pages of the biggest fashion magazines. Since 2007, a lot has changed in terms of political correctness
and what would fly in the editorial section of a print magazine. What hasn’t changed is the rigidity of gender stereotypes –– why there is still an unspoken rule that professional women have to wear pants; why many highschool girls have to follow strict
dress codes; why the price of women politicians’ outfits are so heavily scrutinized. Though Vogue and others have more recently allowed for more sexual and gender ambiguity, making Harry Styles the first solo male cover star, the industry has yet to break the glass ceiling and create an androgynous, liberated utopia. There’s a lot of work that needs to be done on the homefront, creating more space for people and culture that do not fit the heavily-gendered, racially monochrome, physically thin mold. In the spirit of STITCH, I have a few last words on Adkisson’s Last Word. I hope that any politician can wear a miniskirt on The Hill, but because of their own desire, not because a misinformed columnist told them it would look hot. I hope that politicians have the freedom to explore fashion on their own terms, and that the broad appeal of their clothing isn’t a measure of their success. I hope that STITCH helps to push the needle and cover more ideas that contradict stereotypes and allow for a more liberated fashion world. March 2021 25
which iconic STITCH issue are you? by Olivia Evans Designed by Quynh-Nhi Tran
rt sta You live on campus,
where are you getting coffee?
Newport
Sherbucks
Where would you rather live? LA
NYC
What evanston restaurant do you prefer?
Dave's New Kitchen
Cozy's
What are you doing on a Friday night? Watching Netflix
Chilling with my pod
What show have you been obsessed with?
Who do you support in the "drivers license" drama?
Olivia Sabrina I don't know what this is
I May Destroy You
Emily in Paris
which meal do you prefer? Dinner 26
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Breakfast (brunch)
What do you miss most about normalcy?
Concerts
Parties
Where would you rather study abroad?
Sydney, Australia London, England
the movement issue
Okay artsy queen! You love to add a pop of color to any outfit and you feel most ‘you’ in bold tones. Some might think they have your personality pinned down, but you always end up surprising them by pursuing something new. Sometimes this leads to identity crises but your confidence in yourself never lets those feelings linger for too long. MUST READ PIECE: “Major Changes'' an interview by Emily Chaiet with Medill alumna Catie L’Heureax, this story is about changing her major in her junior year. Pg. 20
the bitch issue
Vogue or The Cut?
How do you feel about Harry Styles dating Olivia Wilde?
what can make any outfit?
The Cut Vogue
Love that for her Hate it so much What?!
Statement sneaker Bold lip
You are fiery and fierce! You never let yours or anyone else’s voice or ideas go unheard. You involve yourself heavily on campus and throw yourself into all of your positions. You are the headstrong friend that people flock to for advice. You always add your own flair to fashion trends. MUST READ PIECE: “The Manifesto” photoshoot by Sarah Spellings and Beatrice Hagney pg. 28
autumn/winter 2010
Inspired by the first coined ‘hipsters’ of 2010, you’re a trend-setter. You always know what you like but you never pretend to like something just because it’s cool (or maybe you just only liked it before it was cool). You have probably taken more than one English class at NU and are still coping with the closure of Unicorn Cafe. You’re thriving in 2021, since you prefer more intimate crowds. MUST READ PIECE: “Fashion’s New Sincerity” by Lauren Hazday, a heartfelt piece about love for a fashion blogger back when blogs ran the Internet. Pg. 42
the industry issue
Oh, you must be on Stitch staff! Fashion is in your DNA. You probably picked up this issue of STITCH without being told to by one of your friends on Instagram. You love the feeling of putting on a cute outfit and any excuse to dress up. You are your friends’ go-to for the latest fashion trends. You’ve probably been using this pandemic to launch your fashion sense forward. Overspend on a fashionable face mask? Us, too. MUST READ PIECE: The Insider’s Guide to the Industry, in-depth interviews of people in the fashion industry including Stella Bugbee! Pg. 21
the first issue
You are classic. You don’t tend to keep up-todate on the latest trends because you have such an iconic style. You love online classes because it's given you more time to put your passions to practice and you have a lot of them! You’re committed to the hustle and you refuse to give up your dream, even when the haters doubt you. MUST READ PIECE: “Notel Hotel” a photoshoot by Tommy Rousse. Pg. 13
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2006 meets 2021. My Chemical Romance meets Corpse Husband. Rubber bracelets meets chains. Scene meets E-girl. 15 Years of Alternative Fashion's Evolution. Photographed by: Grace Deng Directed by: Miranda Andrade, Annika de Vogel & Max Han Styled by: Anna Biasco, Melissa Santoyo & Mikayla Williams Set Design: Sarah Loper Models: Harriet Fardon & Meher Yeda Designed by: Jess Chen
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meets
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meets
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P OW E R FIFTEEN A look back on the last decade of Keeping Up With the Kardashians and Gossip Girl
WRITTEN BY REBECCA AIZIN DESIGNED BY AGNES LEE
N
early 15 years ago, a new era of fashion icons and culture resets was born. With the release of the salacious and drama-filled Keeping up with the Kardashians (KUWTK) and the scandalous and exclusive-feeling hit Gossip Girl, the stage was set for great rebirth in what would soon become a great fashion shift in the 2010s. And with it, came our very own STITCH! As we celebrate our 15th birthday (No mom, it’s not a phase. We are still cool!), we look back at the era we were born into, at the cusp of what led Kylie Jenner to become the youngest billionaire in the world and Blair Waldorf to make headbands “in” again. KUWTK changed the world of reality television as we know it; with scores of viewers tuning in to watch the six siblings have petty fights and live their lavish lives. While there were many spinoffs in the 15 years since its inception, the original was always the most mainstream, allowing viewers to follow along as the Kardashians grew into the moguls they are today. Yet, the show is slated to have its final season this year. Meanwhile, Gossip Girl, which rose to major fame quickly as people grew enamored with the lives of New York City’s elite upper class, is set to see a reboot this year. The dichotomy of this is something worth exploring; as one 15 year long chapter ends, another chapter begins for this 2007 hit show.
Getty Images
Revelist
Popsugar
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2021 has asked us to beg the question: is there Why are we still so in love with the shows, a place for the exclusive, top 1% lifestyles of the despite standing against the opiusness they Kardashians and the Upper East Side’s elite to represent? While there may be no one grace our screens? Probably not. As people begin answer, many viewers of the show to lose interest in the habits of the modern day have grown up with it over the bourgeoisie, it seems their reign as the unofficial last 15 years. I myself have come queens of the U.S. is coming to a close. The back to Gossip Girl at every time pandemic has exacerbated this frustration of need in my life, it may be even more, as people grew increasingly ridiculous and problematic, but angry with how the Kardashians have it remains a comfort. Plus the been partying and going on countless fashion is impeccable. vacations, including Kim’s 40th birthday Along with catch phrases island getaway, while people have lost such as “Bible” and “If you loved ones and their jobs. know how I feel, why Despite this movement away from would you say that?!” ogling at the lives of the high upper and a cacophony of class, today, four of the siblings, Khloe, ugly crying faces, Kendall, Kim and Kylie, make up the the Kardashians top 20 most followed people on gave us iconic looks Instagram, with Kylie snagging a spot to remember forever. in the top five. There is no doubt that We saw Kim go from grey people still buy into the Kardashian skinny jeans paired with silk and Jenner image of luxury, family tops and fur shawls to her and copious riches. The show may stunning Roberto Cavalli Met be ending, but the Kardashians Gala 2015 sheer, crystalalready have deals signed with Hulu, encrusted gown, and lest hinting at something new to come. we ever forget the time Gossip Girl is also still expected she wore those clear thigh to receive a reprisal, which was high boots and somehow met with much excitement and made it look cool (or did she?). appraisal. Among many critiques There is much to love and of the original show’s lack of much to look forward to as these diversity or accountability, the shows come back this year (or at creators have promised a much some point), albeit in different more diverse show, with LGBTQ+ forms. One thing remains storylines and many actors of essential in 2021: keeping the color. But is this enough? shows, their creators and the “If they have actors that aren’t cast and crew accountable. problematic and characters with “It might be a different actual representation, I could totally audience, but the idea of see it having a comeback,” Caroline Gossip Girl would be cool to Dickerson, a junior and avid Gossip see a more inclusive show,” Girl fan, says. “It’s easy for a white, Dickerson says. “The changes blonde to see an idol in Blake they’re making are all for the Lively, but now other girls will better, obviously it’s a different have the opportunity to see cast and the old cast is so iconic, someone who looks like them but what’s to say this cast can’t Hollywood Life and be their style icon.” Clearly Fabulous be just as iconic as they were?"
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A letter to my lf e s ld o r a e y 5 1 Written by Carly Witteman designed by Meher Yeda
4/12/2016 36
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Don’t date him just because he plays the guitar. Toothpaste does not work to get rid of pimples. You are not cool for liking One Direction; you are extremely cool for liking One Direction. Avoid drinking coffee because you will develop an extreme caffeine addiction. Wear your retainers at night (I know you don’t like it but, trust me, it will be worth it). Keep reading books that make you happy. The PSAT will not make or break your future academic endeavors. It’s okay to have frizzy hair and be taller than most of your peers. Stop caring about Instagram so much. Give yourself a hug for me. It’s Carly from the future (I know, what a meta experience), and I bet you’re wondering why I have decided to write to you. The truth is, I want these words to reach you because I know how alone you feel. High school
is depressing. Looking back, I wish I could change the decisions you made and the thoughts you had. I know I must radically accept my past, but that still doesn’t mean I can’t give you advice. Here’s how your fifteenth year will play out: On your 15th birthday, instead of hanging out with friends, you will have to go to a modeling photoshoot. The makeup artist, Sarah, will try her best to cover the depression under your eyes, and the photographer, Joe, will tell you that you need to lose weight. You will go home and attend three AP classes the next day. Your hair will begin to fall out, you will go on juice cleanses, you will be measured and poked and weighed and combed, you will try to make friends and succeed and fail, you will attempt to go to the gym everyday, and you will wonder when things will get better. Newsflash: things do get better once you start to see what you are doing to yourself. Over the past few years, I have grown to realize that I do not need to strive to take up less space. You do not need to lose weight to have value or
apologize when you say how you feel or lower your voice in fear of being perceived as too strong. You are incredibly strong. You are the strongest person I know. Take up space. The way you feel is valid. Your opinions matter. You matter. You will experience your first breakup this year, and you think it may kill you. He will break up with you the day before Valentine’s Day and you will cry on your childhood bedroom floor the entire night. Your friends will immediately notice your puffy eyes and tearstained cheeks the next day at school. Your heart will ache each time you are reminded of him, and you will believe that no one will ever love you again. We all crave love and companionship. Now with a little more knowledge and wisdom, I can tell you that more relationships will come and go. You are capable of loving and being loved, and do not let anyone tell you otherwise. Don’t worry; you’ll find your Romeo, Mr. Darcy, or Edward Cullen. Loneliness is an inevitable part of being human — you can be surrounded by people and still feel alone. You will continue to feel lonely, but I promise that you are important. I know at 15 you feel like you don’t have many friends and no one truly sees you. In college, you will continue to struggle with feeling the same way sometimes, and that’s okay. It’s normal to want human connection, and it’s normal to fear being alone. There are people out there
that feel the same way you do, so you are never really alone. Please start wearing high heels more. I know you think you’re too tall to wear them, especially when every boy in your grade is shorter than you, but throw on a blazer and a pair of your favorite heels and feel powerful. You are so powerful. Keep writing because regardless of what others may say, you will grow to find strength and resilience through your words. You will graduate high school, get into an incredible university, and feel truly happy for the first time in a long time. I am so proud of you. I am so proud of myself. I hope to hear from you soon. If not, I’ll see you soon.
ch r a M
7 1 0 2
warmly, Carly
ums. PS: Harry Styles will release two solo alb
Donald Trump will not remain president. Stephanie Meyer will release a Twilight prequel (I know). And you will be okay. March 2021 37
YOU’RE INVITED! YOU’RE INVITED! YOU’RE INVITED!
For: STITCH’s 15th Birthday Party Date: March 17, 2021 Location: The Anniversary Issue, pages 38-45 Dress code: Monochromatic fun! 38
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Photographed by: Sarah Loper Directed by: Annika de Vogel, Miranda Andrade & Max Han Styled by: Amina Elmasry, Lisa Vicini & Sandra Alrifai Models: Jude Cramer, Jordan Mangi, Alex Chun & Emma Yarger Designed by: Margeaux Rocco
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designed by Ashley Xu
What was your favorite part of being on STITCH? “STITCH was one of the reasons I transferred to Northwestern! It’s just such an incredibly cool magazine and we put out such gorgeous, high quality, fun work so it was always super exciting to be able to tell people that I was a part of it.”
“My favorite part about being on STITCH was styling photoshoots. It was always so exciting to see the final product and I loved collaborating with the rest of the styling team on set every quarter. I miss STITCH already!”
What is your favorite thing that you've done in your time on STITCH? “For this anniversary issue, we had two back-to-back photo shoots over one weekend. From dressing a model in early y2k scene girl fit in 2021 to making several cakes for the most intense production design I’ve seen at STITCH, it was a very busy whirlwind of a time, but I loved EVERY second of it. It was so fulfilling and SO MUCH fun. Truly, the absolute joy of working on a STITCH shoot is unmatched.” 46
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How has being on STITCH changed your NU experience? "STITCH has really boosted my confidence in both my creativity and my leadership abilities. I do a lot of creative projects on my own but something just hits different about leading a collaborative effort to create something that gets turned into a polished final product and shown to more people than just my roommates and parents." “STITCH showed me how intertwined a lot of communities really are.”
What are you going to miss most about being on STITCH? “I'll miss having a fun, creative community to collaborate with. STITCH is a unique microcosm of the Vogues and Vanity Fairs of the world, and I'll miss being part of an organization that is always trying to grow and improve.”
“Everything. Which I know seems so cliche and vague, but it’s true. I’m going to miss getting ready to dress up for our Sunday meetings in MFC, being nervous to pitch my ideas at my first meeting, hearing people vent over Zoom about their life at home in quarantine, reading stories from badass editorial teammates and being so excited to see our issue reveals. Most of all, I’m going to miss all the beautiful, inspiring, creative people I’ve met at STITCH. Every meeting felt like I was meeting with my friend group.” March 2021 47
Art by Sadd Sadd