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The Byzantines & The Balkans 1

The Byzantines & the Balkans May 9 ~ June 21, 2012

All art is great, and good, and true, only so far as it is distinctively the work of manhood in its entire and highest sense; that is to say, not the work of limbs and fingers, but of the soul, aided, according to her necessities, by the inferior powers. ~ John Ruskin, The Stones of Venice III (1853)

V. 1 Italy

The Byzantines & the Balkans The Balkan Peninsula has had a rich and varied history, complicated by its location between Europe and Asia and its mountainous, heavily forested topography. It seems to have always been a land of conflict: not only between West and East and between Christianity and Islam, but between the Latin Catholic and the Eastern Orthodox Churches, and between Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire. Our journey took us along poorly maintained roads that curved through rough terrain and along rugged coastlines where we saw some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. We discovered monasteries with remarkable frescos and mosaics in remote locations and saw hints

of Byzantine magnificence in ancient ruins. In addition, we experienced the areaâ€™s rich peasant traditions in its vernacular buildings and folk art. We enjoyed varied cuisine and sipped our share of the strong brandy that is so popular everywhere. We decided to visit this underexplored area because it was a logical extension of our earlier trips to Sicily, Morocco and Andalusia, and to Turkey, where we traced the Ottoman and Byzantine presence. During our trip of over six weeks, we drove 9,555 kilometers through 14 countries, stayed in 28 hotels, and visited 51 UNESCO sites. We were awed by the beauty and complexity of the Balkans and the richness of its Byzantine legacy.

Wednesday, May 9

San Giorgio Valpolicella, Italy

An early start to the day, as Klaus and Dagmar saw me safely on the 7:00 ICE to Munich. Flawless change to the S-Bahn to the airport with literally a minute to spare. Arrived in plenty of time to meet Jake and planned to take a picture as he exited the arrivals area but we somehow missed each other and I waited 40 minutes until at last, he found me. Met the rep from Peugeot who drove us to the office where Jake signed papers for the car we will be using for the next 45 days. Four kilometers from the airport, she turned down a small road hidden by a hedge along the highway, and I wondered where we were going. We passed various large pieces of farm equipment and parked in the center of a series of rustic farm buildings. A sign near the door billed the place as a gasthaus. We were ushered into the office, and as Jake took a chair at the desk, I started to sit on a nearby sofa but noticed that it

was thick with dog hair. The little culprit soon appeared and pawed at a dirty tennis ball in front of me while business was being conducted. After getting a quick lesson on the complexities of our car and the use of the GPS, we were on our way up the road to get gas. Soon realized that we did not know how to turn off the radio and still keep the GPS lady talking, so after some indecision, returned to the farm and got the agent to cut it off. A good move, for the whole procedure was totally non-intuitive. With our destination set to Innsbruck, we were on our way south by noon, driving on toll roads that were crowded with trucks and hampered by construction work, none of which slowed the left lane drivers. The scenery was gorgeous as we took the Brenner Pass autobahn through the Alps. Churchcentered villages nestled on the hills, vineyards covered the valleys, and snow-covered peaks towered over us.

Had a good deal of difficulty finding the Trattoria Dalla Rosa Alda, at the top of a hill with remarkable views of the surrounding countryside, including Lake Garda. The GPS finally came through and guided us to our destination, but we encountered more difficulties when Jake was unable to lock the car. The manual, being in French, was of limited assistance. After a frustrating half hour, finally figured out that a door must have been slightly ajar and after opening and closing the trunk and all the doors and trying the lock again, the side view mirrors folded in like they were supposed to, indicating that the car was finally secure. I hope that we have now mastered most of the features of 21st century automotive engineering. Rolled our bags down the steep road to the door of the trattoria and exchanged smiles with the couple in charge, as we shared hardly a word of common language. After seeing our room, we walked to the nearby church and cloisters that date from the Bronze Age. Returned to prosecco under the grape arbor at the back of the house; a pleasant prelude to dinner in a stone vaulted room where we sampled homemade pasta dishes made with fresh spinach, wild mushrooms, and wild asparagus, served with local olive oil and Parmesan cheese. Chose a robust local red Recioto to accompany our meal. A final frustration in our technologicallychallenged day when we could not get the key to work in our door before realizing that we were on the wrong floor. Time for us to get some sleep! 4

Thursday, May 10

Ravenna, Italy

The sound of sparrows woke us up to a sunny morning. After breakfast under the grape arbor, checked out and loaded the car. Before making our way down the hill, paused for a look inside the church and a photo of the panoramic view. Drove into Verona to visit the UNESCO Basilica of San Zeno. Jake particularly wanted to show me the bronze doors, the work of unknown artists from the 11th and 12th centuries. The Lombard-influenced Romanesque structure features a massive rose window dubbed â€œThe Wheel of Fortuneâ€? and pink and white walls (due to the alternating use of stone and brick.) Frescos dating from the 13th to the 15th centuries line the walls of the nave; the faces still retain delicate expressions of passion, sorrow, or peace.

Basilica of San Zeno, Verona UNESCO

We returned to the autostrade just after noon for the two-hour drive to Ravenna. Lots of trucks on this major north-south link; noticed license places from Poland, Hungary, Italy, Austria, Belgium, and the Czech Republic. Finding the Hotel Bisanzio was no problem with the help of the GPS. I canâ€™t believe how much easier it is to have it. Once the capital of the Roman Empire, Ravenna has many ecclesiastical buildings that are adorned with incredible mosaics. From our hotel, it was a short walk to the Basilica of San Vitale and the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, both UNESCO sites. The interior of the basilica is dazzling. Scenes from the Old Testament adorn the walls; mosaics of Emperor Justinian (482-565) and Empress Theodora gaze at each other from either side of the apse; their brilliant colors and strong outlines are beautiful examples of Byzantine Art. Nearby, the tiny mid-5th century mausoleum was built in the shape of a cross; the vaulted ceiling is a deep blue, ablaze with stars and floral motifs. Alabaster widows cast a mysterious golden hue on the interior. A peaceful Good Shepherd is depicted on the west wall; icons of the four apostles appear on the four corners. Only a limited number of visitors can enter at a time, but I wished I could have been alone in that lovely place.

Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna UNESCO

Mausoleum of Galla Placidia UNESCO

Window-shopped our way back to our room. I was particularly intrigued by a boutique that specialized in nothing but Jordan almonds: every shape, size, and color of almond, and all sorts of fancy little containers to hold them. Dinner this evening at Ca’de’Ven, a half-mile walk from our hotel. Although touristy, this Romagnese trattoria has lots of atmosphere. The building, a former hotel/wine-cellar/spice shop, was constructed in 1542 by a sea captain. We ordered the tasting menu, mainly because the five-course seafood dinner with wine and coffee cost less than 40 euro. Our table was in a large room with several tour groups, including a long table of friendly redfaced Germans and three tables of French visitors who astounded us by clanking their spoons against their dessert plates to get every last drop of whatever they were eating—this going on for several minutes and creating a noise that could be heard throughout the room. A pleasant walk back to the hotel along a pedestrian-only shopping area.

Friday, May 11

Ravenna, Italy

A lazy day by Jakeâ€™s standards. The desk clerk persuaded us to leave the car parked today and enjoy the sites of central Ravenna and save the driving for tomorrow. Started with the Basilica of St. Apollinare Nuovo, erected between 493 and 526 AD by Theodoric. The most striking mosaics show a procession of martyrs leaving the palace and walking toward Christ on one side of the church and a procession of virgins led by the Magi on the other. An interesting detail within the drapes of the mosaic palace are the spectral hands of Theodoricâ€™s dignitaries, the only traces that remain after Justinian covered the figures. 23

Basilica of St. Apollinare UNESCO

Passed the Mausoleum of Theodoric and continued to the small classical building of the tomb of Dante, who died in Ravenna in 1321, and the Church of San Francisco with its 10th century crypt. Took a long detour to the Orthodox Baptistry of Neoniano, erected in the 5th century at the site of what was an earlier Roman bath. Predominately blue mosaics cover the vaulted dome and depict the Baptism of Christ. Adjoining this structure is the Museuo Arcivescovile, or Episcopal Palace Museum, where we saw the delicate 6th century ivory throne of Archbishop Maximian with its intricate, lacey carvings, and the beautiful little mosaic-covered chapel of Saint Andrea. As we walked back toward our hotel, visited the Domus of the Stone Carpets, opened in 2002 and one of the most important Italian architectural discoveries in recent decades. Excavated after a fire destroyed the structure above it, the site consists of fourteen rooms paved with polychrome mosaics that have such non-Christian themes as the Dance of the Spirits of the Seasons. 30

Neoniano Baptistry UNESCO

Stopped for a sandwich and a glass of wine at the Bottega Conti de Francesco across the street before heading back to our room. While Jake took a nap, I caught up with my journal and wrote postcards; went out to look for stamps, which I found at a corner tabak shop, and came back with a scarf too. Walked around the corner for dinner al fresco at Ristorante Gardela, where we watched people out enjoying the most pleasant part of the day. Shops are closed for several hours in the afternoon and stay open late, so evening is a buzz of activity with people heading home or shopping or going out together. We noted the prevalence of bicycles in Ravenna. Particularly in the area where we are staying, people all seem to have bikes: kids with backpacks coming home from school, young people riding in tandem, women weighted down with shopping bags, older couples dressed in evening clothes; we even saw a fellow riding along with his dog on a leash, trotting beside him. As we were coming into town yesterday, we had noticed that, unlike in the US, bikers followed traffic rules and stopped for red lights. Our dinner of salads and pasta was very nice, but it was a shame that the service significantly fell off toward the end of the evening and we had an unpleasantly long wait for our coffee and then for the bill. 34

Saturday, May 12 Venice, Italy Took a 5 km detour south as we left town to the Basilica of St. Apollinaire in Classe, adding one more jewel in our mosaic crown. The church is massive, with a simple nave and two aisles separated by arches. It was constructed in the 6th century and stands in an open field. The apse and center arch feature magnificent mosaics depicting Christ the Savior surrounded by symbols of the evangelists; lambs represent the twelve apostles. Below it all is a charming portrayal of a meadow with the fi g u r e o f S t . A p o l l i n a r i s surrounded by his sheep, the flock of the faithful. We arrived early and it was wonderful to have this magnificence to ourselves. 36

Basilica of St. Apollinaire in Classe

Halfway to Venice on a heavily-trafficked road, visited Santa Maria church at Pomposa Abbey, known for its rich 14th century frescoes. A rather mean-spirited fellow chastised me after I sneaked in a snap. The entrance wall had a large fresco illustrating The Last Judgment, with heaven on one side and hell on the other, where a rather cute monster was happily munching on the damned. 41

Venice

As to the city itself, Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance alike, it has servived all that history and changing taste has brought to bear upon it, and proceeds still down the generations, as Ruskin would have wished it, from allegory to allegory. ~ Jan Morris, introduction to Ruskinâ€™s Stones of Venice

Drove on to Venice, crossing the causeway to Tronchetto at 1:00. Had no problem parking at the modern facility and bought 72-hour tourist cards for the vaporetto, the public water bus service. Hopped on the next boat and arrived at Zattare twenty minutes later. Short walk to La Calcina, where John Ruskin stayed for several months in 1877, long after his succesful completion of The Stones of Venice. We have a cozy room on the third floor (51 steps with no elevator) with a sliver of canal view off a small balcony. With Venetian prices, it is more than adequate.

Walked to San Polo to see San Rocco and the great church of I Frari. The quarter is predominately residential and we enjoyed that quiet and picturesque area. The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is known for its magnificent interior decoration, consisting almost completely of paintings by Tintoretto. Exited the adjacent Church of San Rocco just as a parade of men, women, and children went by, waving flags and proclaiming their support for Venetian independence. Explored the massive Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, with Titianâ€™s Assumption of the Virgin at the center. The church also houses Titianâ€™s Mausoleum, although the painterâ€™s body may never have been buried there. The fact that there was no photography allowed at either place had the benefit of forcing us to explore them together, rather than independently from behind our cameras.

Venetian Arches

Had little time to relax before taking a vaparetto to the Cannaregio area where we had reservations at Anice Stellato, an intimate Michelin Bib osteria located at the backside of Venice, far from the tourist bustle. A healthy dinner of seafood and fresh vegetables with engaging service from a delightful crew of young people. It was such fun to watch as several locals stopped in at the bar for a friendly word and a quick glass of house wine. I asked our server about it after we watched one old fellow leave his shopping bag at the door, come in for a small glass of wine, and continue on his way five minutes later. She told us that this practice is called an ombra, or â€œshadow,â€? and is customary in Venice and particularly at their establishment. I noticed later that when one of the ubiquitous flowersellers came in to make his rounds of the tables, he paused at the bar for a glass of water and a friendly exchange as well. The boat was nearly empty when we took the return trip to Zattare, happy after our special evening.

Sunday, May 13

Venice, Italy

Raining and cold this morning, so bundled up for the vaporetto to San Giorgio. Disembarked at S. Zaccaria and walked to the Scuola di San Giorgio, tucked in the heart of the Castillo district behind the Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront. The Scuola was built in the 16th century and is a beautiful repository for the stunning cycle of paintings of St. George by Carpaccio, completed in 1507. The warmth of the wooden ceiling in the gallery provides a perfect location that reflects the warm colors of the paintings. Wandered west through the San Marco area, along the water past the Bridge of Sighs and the Ducal Palace, and through the crowds at San Marcos Square. As we walked toward the Academia, passed dozens of designer shops, including Chanel, Prada, Faragamo, and Fendi; I noticed with interest that although many of these designers have a presence in Chicago, the pieces displayed in the windows here seem to have a lot more style. Crossed over the Academia Bridge to the Dorsoduro neighborhood to visit the Gallerie dellâ€™Academia. Stood in line for over a half-hour, as only 360 visitors are allowed in at a time. The gallery is almost entirely devoted to Italian masters, most of them Venetian. It was fun to compare Belliniâ€™s huge painting of San Marcos with the way it looks today. 53

Gallerie dellâ€™Academia

As the afternoon wore on, the wind picked up and moved out the clouds so that the weather for our early evening ride to the northern islands of Murano, Mazzorbo, and Burano was brisk and bright. We disembarked at Burano, an artistsâ€™ colony known for lace-making and colorful houses. The houses remain, painted garishly bright colors that are reflected along the canals, but the lace industry has apparently been given over to the Chinese. Crossed the wooden bridge that connects Burano with Mazzorbo and walked through small farm plots and vineyards that coincidently led us to the restaurant where we had dinner reservations. Modern and attractive, Venissa is a small restaurant owned by a winery that obviously has its sights set on a Michelin star. We chose to have a tasting menu consisting of delicate seafood dishes prepared with fresh herbs. The staff is surprisingly large for the eight inside tables; we could see as many as six chefs through the window to the kitchen. Local wines and their own prosecco made our leisurely meal something special. It was a short walk to the boat dock where our timing was perfect for both legs of the ride back to the hotel. 60

Monday, May 14

Venice, Italy

A glorious day: the sun shining in a cloudless sky and the temperature in the high 60s. Returned to San Marcos to visit the Correr Museum. Went through the permanent collection, including the archeological section and the library and scriptorium. Jake pointed out the 15th century De’ Barbari (“Birdseye”) Map of Venice, made from a series of woodcuts, and the unique Fra Mauro Map, drawn on parchment at Venice’s San Michele Monastery in about 1450. The Mauro map is one that centers the world on Jerusalem. In the painting gallery, we particularly enjoyed several works by Bellini, paintings by the Flemish school, and Brueghel the Younger’s Adoration of the Magi. We agreed that the collection at the Correr is more appealing to us than the Academie with its massive canvases by Tintoretto and Titian.

15th century De’ Barbari (“Birdseye”) Map of Venice, made from a series of woodcuts.

Fra Mauro Map, drawn on parchment at Venice’s San Michele Monastery in about 1450.

Paid the extra admission to an exhibition of Gustav Klimt, emphasizing his collaboration with architect and designer Josef Hoffmann. This is one of the many shows throughout Europe celebrating the 150th birthday of the artist. Over twenty years, Klimt and Hoffmann strove to establish a harmony between the visual and applied arts, as Hoffmann designed spaces for Klimt’s paintings, integrating them into his designs like settings for precious jewels. In particular, I loved seeing paintings of Klimt’s women, including Judith, Salome, and Marie Hennenberg, all of which depicted women of strength and power. The show’s last painting, The Sunflower, provided a glimpse into Klimt’s view of nature; some have suggested that it was meant to be a representation of his companion, Emilie Floge, as well.

Beyond those troops of ordered arches there rises a vision out of the earth, and all the great square seems to have opened from it a kind of awe, that we may see it far away; a multitude of pillars and white domes, clustered into a long low pyramid of colored lightâ€Ś ~John Ruskin, The Stones of Venice

â€ŚSculpture fantastic and involved, of palm leaves and lilies, and grapes and pomegranates, and birds clinging and fluttering among branches, all twined together into an endless networkâ€Ś 72

Across the plaza, the five 13th century Byzantine domes of San Marco Basilica glistened in the sun; as John Ruskin wrote in his Stones of Venice, â€œa confusion of delight.â€? At 11:45 we entered the church with pre-booked tickets that Jake had purchased to take advantage of the short time that the mosaics are illuminated. Joined thousands of visitors who casually ignored numerous signs that photography was forbidden, as we shuffled our way around this dazzling structure, concentrating on the golden mosaics above. Each dome unfolds its own Biblical story; Ruskin wrote that mosaics are the most important branch of early Christian art and serve as an illustrated Bible. Visited the Treasury, primarily filled with reliquaries and plunder from the Fourth Crusade, and the Museum, up a steep flight of stairs where we were rewarded by magnificent views and the original four horses that had once stood on the balcony above the basilicaâ€™s west front. 73

At the Dogesâ€™ Palace (Palazzo Ducale) we walked though room after room of gold and opulence representing Byzantine, Gothic, and Renaissance styles; crossed the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) and through the maze of wretched prisons below. It was hard enough to walk through the narrow passageways with incandescent lighting; I canâ€™t imagine what it must have been like to be incarcerated there. 85

Walked back toward our hotel; Jake stopped to buy a little Murano glass beetle for me, with its wings in the shape of a red heart. A pitcher of wine and a crisp little pizza at a curbside cafĂŠ provided a pleasant break.

This evening, took the vaparetto to Santa Croce where we had reservations at La Zucca (The Pumpkin), a small vegetarian restaurant on a small canal off an equally small street. This was my reward for having squid and eel last night. They had overbooked for the evening, even though our name was clearly on their list. However, a bit of scrambling produced a nice outside table next to the water. After starting with pumpkin flan, we shared a giant platter of beets, carrots, ratatouille, beans, artichokes, and asparagus, all prepared with interesting sauces. Of course, wine accompanied it all. Chatted with two doctors from New Jersey seated next to us who were on a weeklong escape from jobs and children. As we walked back to the boat, noticed that a shop selling handmade puzzles was still open; we had briefly looked inside on our way to dinner when we were in a rush. Vanni Morandin, a native of The Netherlands, has made Venice his home and puzzles his vocation. He explained how he makes his complex works of art and Jake bought a forcola puzzle (the oar lock on a gondola) that intrigued him. He also ordered a small red wooden heart made out of my name. Vanni promised to have it in Chicago by the time we return. Tomorrow, Croatia. 87

V. 1