COLORADO LIVING A ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
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Publisher Christopher P. Reen
Staff Director of Content/Magazine Editor Nathan Van Dyne Christian Murdock
Art Director/Designer
Uniquely Colorado
Nichole Montanez Designer Samantha Thomas President/Chief Operating Officer
In August of 1876, President Ulysses S. Grant signed a proclamation making Colorado the 38th state in America. By then, gold miners had rushed to Pikes Peak and other mountains beyond Denver in hopes of striking it rich. Hopes and dreams would soon die inside the mining industry. But hopes and dreams are alive and well in Colorado today, 150 years after statehood. This is the Centennial State, so named for Colorado joining the Union exactly 100 years after the signing of the Declaration of Independence. A land of opportunity was envisioned. And a land of opportunity Colorado remains. Opportunities abound here for adventure, entertainment, luxury and so much more. In celebrating this anniversary year, allow us to count out 150. Gold and silver were !rst to put Colorado on the map. But now the places that are chronicled on these pages do. They help de!ne Colorful Colorado. It is the red rocks that gave the state its name (“colored red”). It is the 14,000foot mountain named for the blue sky.
It is the many colors of wild"owers that bloom across Crested Butte. It is the pink building that features Mexican food and, better yet, cliff diving. We make other dives around the state — a bar for Rocky Mountain oysters comes to mind. It’s an acquired taste, they say. More widely enjoyed are the sweetness of a Palisade peach and the spice of a Pueblo chile. Also widely enjoyed in Colorado: climbing a mountainside staircase, running with burros and skiing behind a horse. If you think that is weird, try going to the festival that honors a frozen dead guy. Or maybe you like your festivals with bluegrass or beer. Colorado delivers both. Arguably no other state blends rugged adventure with luxury !t for royalty quite like this one. We cover plenty of that, too. We cover destinations well-known and lesser-known, in some cases returning to the mountains that called to prospectors more than 150 years ago. Yes, it was gold and silver that brought many here. Keeping us here today are countless memories to be made — priceless.
Rich Williams Editor John Boogert
Acknowledgements Cover Photo San Juan Mountains by Getty Images
Sales VP of Advertising Traci Conrad Advertising Sales Director Candi Thomas Revenue Operations Director Karen Hogan
Ties that bind
Boulder teahouse serves up pride of the past. 20
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Western ways
Flying W Ranch overcomes tragic wild!re. 34
Motor mecca
Cussler Museum stuns with car collection. 42
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St. Elmo Colorado is home to many ghost towns, reminding us that we are not so far removed from the mining days. But of all the ghost towns littered with fading structures from the past, none is as accessible and popular as St. Elmo — a short drive from Buena Vista and surrounded by aspens. A general store has continued to operate over the years. Otherwise, the only inhabitants appear to be the chipmunks that seek scraps from tourists.
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Michael Ciaglo
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Crested Butte Wildflower Festival
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GROOMED to
BLOOM
TEXT BY JENNIFER MULSON ILLUSTRATION BY NICHOLE MONTANEZ
Countless seasons ago, Mother Nature found herself in an antsy state on a particularly frigid winter day. Warmth was but a fuzzy memory, and she idled with a serious case of spring fever. Throwing open the doors of her Colorado cabin, she burst into the gloom with !stfuls of seeds — lupine, tall chiming bells, blanket "ower, bluebell, !reweed, Indian paintbrush, pink mountain heather, columbines, shooting stars, scarlet gilia — and scattered them far and wide, across the peaks and valleys. The wild"owers didn’t blossom immediately. But after the spring equinox, their sunny faces !nally opened, with early bloomers such as the pasque "ower and glacier lilies showing up along the Front Range. Mother Nature’s recipe of late snowmelt, 300 days of sunshine and alpine terrain made this state one of the most fertile places for these tiny jewels. Her wintry act of desperation ensured crimson, buttery yellows, pinks, sunset oranges, lavenders and blue perennials would return year after year when the sun climbed to its highest point. The colors would blanket her land-
scapes and delight those who frolicked in her meadows forevermore. Today’s seekers of wild"owers, lured by the siren call of the indefatigable blooms, know to head west to Crested Butte, a tiny town with a collective brain large enough to realize it should dream up an annual festival to celebrate its unof!cial designation as Colorado’s “wild"ower capital.” Crested Butte Wild"ower Festival covers 10 days and is held each July, paying homage to the breathtaking scene that unfolds all around. Numerous experts lead dozens of workshops on topics such as photography, pollination, culinary arts and painting. Then there are programs on birds and butter"ies. The star attraction, of course, is the wild"ower. And it’s not shy about stealing the show. No doubt the best way to enjoy this festival is on the go, with trails suited for all ages and abilities. Some of our favorites include Teddy’s Trail, Emerald Lake, Lupine Trail, Judd Falls, Rustler Gulch, Long Lake, Snodgrass Trail, Daisy Pass, Gothic Mountain, Scarp Ridge, Baxter Gulch and West Maroon Pass.
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3 Yampah Spa & Vapor Caves
7 Bent’s Old Fort
4 Troll sculptures
8 Alpine slide (Winter Park)
5 South Park Coney Island
9 Coors Brewery
6 The Flatirons
10 Lake Pueblo State Park
The Utes who first lived in Glenwood Canyon were fans of the natural vapor caves, believing them to be sacred for ceremony and healing. These are the only ones of their kind in the U.S., with a flow of 6,000 gallons of 125-degree mineral water per minute. The water runs through each room of the cave, creating 110- to 113-degree steam that is considered highly therapeutic.
Isak Heartstone garnered envy and scorn upon appearing in Breckenridge in 2018. He was a 15-foot wooden troll that visitors found charming and nearby neighbors found menacing, for the masses he drew. He was moved and now sits happily ever after amid a forest elsewhere in town. And now he has a relative in Colorado: Artist Thomas Dambo returned to build Rita the Rock Planter atop a scenic hill in Victor.
You wouldn’t expect to find New York in the evergreen hills of Bailey off U.S. 285 between Denver and Fairplay. But here stands a surprising homage to a nostalgic landmark of that state. Colorado’s Coney Island has its own take on the boardwalk and on the hot dog, as well as some mountain views. Along the highway, you won’t miss the little building that’s shaped like the food you’re stopping to eat.
These distinct sandstone formations jut from a forested mountainside and form Boulder’s official city logo. They have long molded some of America’s most successful mountaineers (an example: Gerry Roach, one of the first to climb the world’s Seven Summits). But one need not scale the five Flatirons to be considered a true Coloradan. We must simply admire them, getting closer views from trails in Chautauqua Park.
In an otherwise barren pocket of southeast Colorado rises this “Castle on the Plains.” The adobe complex remains an astonishing sight today, but imagine how it looked for weary travelers of the Santa Fe Trail in the 1840s. In being reconstructed in 1976, Bent’s Old Fort aimed to stir the imagination — to transport people back to this place where trappers, explorers and Native Americans gathered to trade.
You can find alpine slides at a few Colorado ski resorts — summer attractions that grant a wind-in-your-face thrill when the snow has melted. But no alpine slide in the state is as long as the one at Winter Park. The Arrow chairlift ferries one up the slopes, where they reach the top of the chute resembling a bobsled course. On a wheeled sled equipped with a brake, one twists and turns more than 3,000 feet down the slide.
Colorado’s distinguished beer culture can be traced to 1873, when German immigrant Adolph Coors started his brewery in the foothills of Golden. Now you can taste the Rockies everywhere. But to learn how the brand went global and to experience the truest taste — free samples! — you need to go back to where it all began. Tours are in high demand at the world’s largest single-site brewery so you’ll need to reserve a spot.
Lake Pueblo is Colorado’s busiest state park and a big reason why so many landlocked residents buy a boat. Summers are hot here, but summers are cherished for the chance to motor across these 4,600 surface acres of cold water. This is the place for jet skiing, tubing and sailing. It’s the place, too, for prime fishing. And on land, mountain bikers know some of the best riding to be had anywhere.
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A picturesque mountain town with its own marina on the shores of Dillon Reservoir, miles of dirt trails through the mountains, free skate and bike parks, and paved recreation paths that connect to a 55-mile network. After the adventure, stroll Main Street and enjoy local flavor, cozy spots, and true mountain-town magic.
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11 Cattlemen’s Days
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Cowboy culture TEXT BY SETH BOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL SEAMANS
‘Granddaddy of Colorado Rodeos’ honors simpler, fading way of life COLORADO LIVING 15
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hotos from 100 years ago show cowboys on horseback lining Gunnison’s main street, which was dirt in those days. Tyler Hansen likes to look at these photos, to see his western Colorado hometown how it used to be. “It was just an Old West town,” he said. For a week every July, Gunnison resembles that again. Those old photos show the early Cattlemen’s Days, which today calls itself the “Granddaddy of Colorado Rodeos.” It’s known as the state’s longest-running rodeo, dating to 1900. Just as local ranchers came together back then for riding and roping as part of a fun-!lled break in the busy summer, so they do today. Cattlemen’s Days has grown into more than a rodeo. Along with the traditional parade, the week sees locals showing horses and livestock, barrel racing and wrangling. They bid at the auction, laugh at the funny man and enjoy the carnival rides. They read poetry and sing songs that honor an old way of life. Hansen knows that way of life
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well. He’s a fourth-generation rancher in the Gunnison Valley, tending to horses and cows like his great-grandparents who settled here in the late 1800s. And like his father and uncle before him, Hansen is president of Cattlemen’s Days. His mother was a rodeo queen. Other family members have helped organize the parade and have served breakfast to tired ranchers ready for merriment. “It just brings us back to what brought us all to this valley,” Hansen said. “It was cattle country and cowboy country.” It was previously !elds of sage, a rancher recalled in a documentary chronicling the history of Cattlemen’s Days. “These hay meadows we look at and think they’re natural, they weren’t,” Paul Manning said. They were established along with irrigation ditches. And along with hay, beef became a top commodity here in the valley near major mining populations. Coal and gold would boom and bust. But the cowboys remained — and they made themselves known one celebratory week in July. Recalled another rancher, Lawrence Phelps, in that documentary: “These old cowboys started Cattlemen’s Days because of the fact that the irrigating season was over, they had the cattle on the high range and they were getting ready to cut hay. So they had a blast before that all started.” Generations followed suit, through world wars and the Great Depression, through social and political strife and through economic highs and lows. No matter what, “everybody has a lot of fun,” Phelps said. “It’s against the law to work around here on Cattlemen’s Days week.” The event went by other names in the early 1900s: Pioneer Celebration and Helldorado Stampede. From Gunnison’s dirt streets, cowboys and cowgirls moved to the track and stands of Colorado Normal School, now Western Colorado University. “What a celebration,” the local newspaper remarked then, noting “cattlemen, merry-go-rounds, cowpunchers, popcorn, horses, ice cream, more cowpunchers, red silk
handkerchiefs, people, cars, races, brass bands, an eightlegged calf, snakes …” Festivities moved to the current fairgrounds in the 1930s. That decade, organizers partnered with the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association to lure top talent beyond the valley, launching the level of competition seen today. “There’s still a small-town, down-home rodeo feel to it, but we bring in the big names,” Hansen said. He’s but one with fond childhood memories of Cattlemen’s Days who has spent his adulthood volunteering. The goal for him and others: “To keep it going for the next generation.” Spectators today might not notice any cultural change from Gunnison’s past. But indeed, “it’s changed,” Hansen said. “It’s changed a lot.” The valley is now home to a Vail Resorts-owned destination in Crested Butte, and other forms of outdoor recreation fuel the local economy. “Now there are fewer and fewer ranches year after year,” Hansen said. They’ve been bought by wealthy outsiders seeking vacation getaways. Hansen doesn’t blame this generation for selling, these great-grandsons and great-granddaughters who know all too well what he knows: “It’s hard to make a living with a cow.” His family’s original ranch was sold a few years ago. “We bought a small ranch, but it’s not a full-time occupation like it used to be,” Hansen said. To pay the bills, he drives a truck. That “allows my wife and boys to be able to stay home and play with the cows and horses and all that good stuff,” he said. He still tends to the animals, still rides with his two sons, ages 5 and 3. And like their parents, grandparents and great-grandparents before them, they’ll be testing their skills at Cattlemen’s Days. “Most people think 3 is pretty young,” Hansen said. “But both of them are riding horses and swinging ropes.” COLORADO LIVING 17
12 Fishers Peak State Park
14 Best Western Movie Manor
13 Colorado Cherry Co.
15 Great American Beer Festival
When the park was established in 2020, it granted access to one of southern Colorado’s most iconic mountains. Fishers Peak had been off-limits under private ownership. But when would we be able to hike it? That question was answered when an arduous trail opened to the summit. And the network continues to expand, offering new ways to explore the scenic backdrop of Trinidad that we previously only viewed from afar.
From Rocky Mountain National Park to The Stanley and spots in between, Estes Park is filled with scenes of family memories. One of the sweetest is found on the way into town — that red-roofed shop off U.S. 36. Vacation is not complete without a stop for cherry pie and cider. They are among the specialties of Colorado Cherry Co., the family business spanning four generations. It all started in 1929 with Katherine Lehnert.
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Rare is the drive-in theater in Colorado and all around America. Even rarer is a hotel attached to a drive-in theater. Welcome to the Movie Manor in Monte Vista, here in the San Luis Valley where the stars shine brightly in the sky above two giant screens. Movies can be watched from most rooms. But they are best watched from the car or from a picnic blanket, some freshly popped popcorn in hand.
In October, GABF is leaving Colorado Convention Center for Levitt Pavilion — what some saw as a downsizing for the nation’s biggest beer festival. Others might say the outdoors are more fitting for a Colorado beer fest. And all would agree it’s only fitting for Colorado to host the industry’s ultimate celebration. Hundreds of brewers compete for prizes in Denver while revelers sip beer and munch pretzel necklaces.
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Dushanbe Boulder Teahouse
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TRAD TION TEXT BY SETH BOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK REIS
Roots of Boulder landmark planted half a world away
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o step into Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is to step across time and space, to witness thousands of years of tradition and to travel to the namesake city half a world away. Dushanbe is the capital of Tajikistan, a mountainous country between China and Afghanistan. It was here in the 1980s that 40 artisans carved, sculpted and painted according to ancient traditions as part of an odd, ambitious effort to see their kind of ornate teahouse built in a Colorado college town. The teahouse, by its own account, would be “a reminder to the citizens of Boulder to value cultural diversity, global cooperation and international friendship.” And it would be a destination to rival the landmark Flatirons. This, too, is a head-turning site: a colorful, square building of tall windows and intricate, ceramic panels bordered by Boulder Creek and a rose garden said to display 50-plus varieties. The carved panels, meanwhile, display such legends as the Tree of Life. Through the door, the legend of the Seven Beauties is told by the copper statues standing around a fountain that mimics the re!ecting pools found in Central Asian teahouses. Here inside, the eye wanders on. None of the 12 cedar columns is the same, carved with different patterns. They rise to vibrant mosaics painted across the ceiling. And more meticulously carved panels adorn the walls all around. The result is said to be “an extraordinary setting that is unlike any other in our hemisphere.” And along with teas !own seasonally from India, China, Japan and beyond, Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse prides itself on a menu “offering a culinary glimpse into the vast world of international cuisine.” The spicy Indonesian peanut noodles are popular. As are the Korean bulgogi and the chickpea croquettes packed with herbs and spices and dipped in a tomato sauce honoring Persia. And there’s Tajikistan plov, as the traditional rice dish is listed — honoring the place where Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse began to take shape in 1987. That year, Dushanbe’s mayor visited Boulder in what nearly represented the culmination of a local initiative to form a relationship with a Soviet-controlled city in a show of peace amid the Cold War. The culmination of this sister city bond would be the teahouse the mayor pledged as a gift to Boulder. Back in Dushanbe, artists spent the next few years creating the building by hand, all for it to be disassembled into parts that would be packed in some 200 containers. From the Gulf of Finland, the containers crossed the Baltic Sea and the Atlantic Ocean before a rail trip to Denver and a trailer ride to Boulder. “Then, the magni"cent gift languished away in storage for years,” reads an account by Visit Boulder. The account continues with some of the questions that of"cials pondered: “Where would the structure be installed? How would the city fund its assemblage? Who would operate it once open, and how — as a museum, teahouse or restaurant?” From across Central Park, local restaurateurs Lenny and Sara Martinelli would operate the building as the teahouse it was designed to be. It was designed to be traditional, which meant another yearslong process of reconstruction led by Tajik artists who knew the handcrafted ways. Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse opened in 1998. Ever since, people near and far have booked reservations for teatime between lunch and dinner. And all along, artisans from across the world have returned to the building. This has been part of “the big ongoing process,” the Martinellis’ son, Rory, said in a previous interview. “Maintaining things and refurbishing things constantly.” He has happily greeted those artisans over the years. “It feels really nice to have friends across the world,” he said.
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Great Sand Dunes National Park This place is arguably the most otherworldly spot in the state, home to North America’s tallest sand dunes. Without the bene!t of today’s myriad photos, we like to imagine the look of astonishment on Zebulon Pike’s face when his expedition crossed here in 1807. Even with photos setting our expectations today, we are still astonished by the Great Sand Dunes and the backdrop of Sangre de Cristo peaks. No photo can do it complete justice.
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18 The North Pole — Santa’s Workshop 20 Mesa Verde National Park The head honcho has made a home here in Cascade since 1956, surrounded by Christmas-themed amusement park rides for all ages. Come here if you crave a slice of nostalgia, with rides such as Christmas Tree, Candy Cane Coaster and Peppermint Slide. You can also catch a show with Elmer the Elf, visit Santa and explore Santa’s Village, which was designed by former Walt Disney artist Arto Monaco to be identical to one built in Lake Placid, N.Y.
19 Stations of the Cross
Established in 1851, San Luis is Colorado’s oldest town. It and the broader San Luis Valley are rooted in Spanish Catholicism, so it’s only fitting that this rendering of Christ’s Crucifixion overlooks the town. The bronze sculptures line a trail that culminates at La Capilla de Todos Los Santos, the beautiful Chapel of All Saints. Reads the billing from a tourism bureau: “No matter your spirituality, this is an emotional and cultural experience.”
One of the state’s four national parks is one of a kind. Mesa Verde preserves more than 4,700 archaeological sites, including dwellings built between cliffs high above this valley floor of southwest Colorado. They were built more than 700 years ago, and they are still here to see — homes, kivas, plazas and all. Tours can be booked between May and October. Mesa Verde is also one of the state’s International Dark Sky Places.
21 ‘Doc’ Holliday’s grave
Take the short trail to the final resting place of a Wild West legend. John Henry Holliday became known as “Doc” for his past as a dentist. He would become “the most skillful gambler and the nerviest, speediest, deadliest man with a six-gun I ever knew,” in the words of Wyatt Earp posted on a sign by the grave. “Doc” came to Glenwood Springs in 1887, the last year of his life, perhaps seeking the mineral springs to cure his tuberculosis.
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22 The Brown Palace Hotel and Spa
27 Grand Mesa
23 Blue Mesa Reservoir
28 Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre
24 Woody Creek Tavern
29 Alpine Loop
25 Tennessee Pass Sleep Yurts
30 Genesee Park
26 Rocky Mountain National Park
31 Paramount Theatre
Since 1892, the Denver landmark has hosted U.S. presidents, world leaders and other celebrities. Patrons can stay overnight, receive spa treatments or just drop in for the popular afternoon tea, set in the lobby and accompanied by live music, a tradition that began in the 1980s. Daily tours delve into the building’s unusual triangular design as well as its hidden passageways and Prohibition-era tunnels.
Grab your rod and reel and head to Colorado’s largest body of water, located just outside Gunnison. Blue Mesa Reservoir is stocked annually with millions of fish, including lake trout, brown trout, rainbow trout, kokanee and yellow perch. It’s home to the largest kokanee salmon fishery in the U.S. Measuring 29 miles in length, there’s plenty of room for company in the reservoir, and it comes in the form of boaters, sailboarders and water-skiers.
The town of Woody Creek is close to Aspen but seemingly a world away. “On the other side of the tracks,” one might say. A rebellious writer of legend lived in these parts, up until his suicide in 2005. But one might sense Hunter S. Thompson’s presence still at Woody Creek Tavern, where his fellow Woody Creek creatures carry on his legacy at the bar, drinking too hard and railing against the neighboring town of glitz and glamour.
Situated by the parking lot of Ski Cooper outside Leadville, the Nordic center gives no indication of what awaits in the forest beyond. Here is a romantic, unforgettable night out in classic Colorado powder. Hopefully your idea of romance is skiing or snowshoeing about a mile to your cozy, warm quarters. When night falls, head to the warm glow of the nearby cookhouse, where an elevated, multicourse dinner awaits.
“In years to come when I am asleep beneath the pines, thousands of families will find rest and hope in this park,” preservationist Enos Mills wrote in 1909. Mills’ words are being realized every year by more than 4 million visitors. They drive Trail Ridge Road above 12,000 feet, stopping to see elk and moose along the way. They hike Longs Peak and summits all around or chart courses to waterfalls and alpine lakes. One could spend a lifetime trying to see it all.
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In western Colorado, it is impossible not to gaze upon the world’s largest flat-top mountain. Grand Mesa Scenic Byway runs 63 miles, and the road is a portal to a year-round escape. In the heat of the summer, Grand Mesa offers cooler temperatures and hundreds of lakes. In the fall, the colors dazzle. And in the winter, Nordic skiers and snowmobilers explore the woods and wide-open meadows.
Every day should come with a dose of awe. You will definitely be satiated at this open-air amphitheater between monolithic, 300-foot sandstone walls. Legendary music acts have performed here since the early 1900s, and little compares to sitting on concrete and wood seats overlooking the stage while the moon rises behind your favorite band. But you don’t need show tickets to visit the National Historic Landmark, as trails are plentiful throughout the park.
The rugged drive covers 65 miles of Rocky Mountain majesty in southwest Colorado, topping 12,000 feet over Engineer and Cinnamon passes. Jeeps and ATVs rumble out of Lake City, Ouray and Silverton, bound for many other mesmerizing destinations: the wildflower-filled American Basin; ghost towns including Animas Forks and Capitol City; and 14,000-foot summits including Uncompahgre, Wetterhorn, Handies, Sunshine and Redcloud peaks.
Red Rocks Park, with land surrounding the iconic amphitheater, might be the crown jewel of the Denver Mountain Parks system. Echo Lake and Lookout Mountain are other premier properties. But Denver Mountain Parks began in 1912 with Genesee Park. And it was here, across these 2,400 acres, where officials embarked on a bold mission to conserve a wild symbol of the West. Descendants of the last wild bison roam the land today for all of us to admire.
When this Denver landmark opened on Aug. 29, 1930, an estimated crowd of 20,000 lined the sidewalk of Glenarm Place to welcome the opulent venue and its inaugural film, the black-and-white musical comedy “Let’s Go Native.” The list of top performers in the decades since includes Frank Sinatra, Bruce Springsteen, Art Garfunkel, the Jonas Brothers, Moscow Ballet and Cyndi Lauper. The theater is on the National Register of Historic Places.
SOME COMMUNITIES PROMISE A BETTER LIFE. RANGELY DELIVERS ONE.
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Rangely, Colorado Out here, life moves at the speed it should. Wide open spaces. Friendly faces. Endless possibilities. A PLACE TO LIVE. A PLACE TO GROW.
A PLACE TO BE FREE.
Way Outside of Ordinary
EXPLORE FREELY.
ATVs, golf carts, and side-by-sides are part of everyday life here. (Following local regulations)
FISH. PLAY. MAKE MEMORIES. Our rivers, trails, and parks are minutes from your front door.
TEE OFF IN PARADISE.
Golf, hiking, biking, and wide-open views that clear your mind and fill your soul.
WORK YOUR WAY
ADVENTURE IS EVERYWHERE.
Remote work is easy with our 1GB fiber optic internet. Opportunities to start a business and build a future.
Hike and bike the beautiful trails or head down the road to explore the Dinosaur National Monument.
CHILDHOOD THE WAY IT SHOULD BE.
A place where kids can be kids and neighbors look out for one another.
I N R A N G E LY, Y O U ’ L L F I N D F R E E D O M S Y O U D O N ’ T G E T I N E V E R Y T O W N .
Kids 10+ can legally drive golf carts, ATVs & side-by-sides around town (Except main street)*
Wide open spaces, epic outdoors & room to breathe
Safe, friendly community where kids can be kids
Opportunities to work, start a business & build your future
Hunt, fish, camp & enjoy Colorado your way
Affordable living. Real value. Homes & land you can own.
Neighbors who care & a town that shows up for you
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FREEDOM TO EXPLORE • FREEDOM TO GROW • FREEDOM TO BELONG COLORADO LIVING 27
Chancey Bush
Estes Park
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(for elk rut) A wildlife soap opera descends upon Estes Park every fall, when the changing colors of Rocky Mountain National Park provide another reason to visit. But the main reason is the elk rut. Between September and October, bulls bugle and sometimes clash for mates. The drama plays out around town, at closed golf courses and in the national park, where thousands of elk look for love during the season.
Olympic and Paralympic 33 U.S. Museum/Training Center
37 Dillon Amphitheater
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38 Trestle Bike Park
Summit County residents have long enjoyed music on the stage backdropped by Dillon Reservoir and the mountains. The word has spread to Coloradans beyond, some of whom will tell you this is the scenic venue they prefer over the world-famous one framed by red rocks. The acts have gotten bigger here at Dillon, but the local scene still prevails — especially on Mondays, when concerts are free.
Colorado Springs is proudly Olympic City USA, home to the nation’s organizing committee and athletes who train here above 6,000 feet. Specifically, they train at the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Training Center, which offers regular tours. Meanwhile, the state-of-the-art museum offers interactive, high-tech exhibits and cool memorabilia for visitors to see. You’ll leave feeling inspired.
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Gondola (Telluride/Mountain Village) Telluride is stunning to behold from the ground, with the dramatic San Juan peaks rising all around. It’s just as stunning to behold from above. Locals in town and in the resort community are spoiled by the free gondola that takes them to and fro. And visitors are as well — especially in the fall, when the mountains are awash in color. The ride takes 12 minutes, but one might wish it could go on longer.
39 UFO Watchtower
People have spotted curious sights in the skies over the San Luis Valley for decades. In response, one woman decided to build an observation platform north of Hooper and near Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve. Judy Messoline converted her barn into a tourist attraction in 2000 to overcome financial strain, and now she’s a believer after seeing her own share of odd things over the years.
Roxborough State Park
Colorado Springs has Garden of the Gods, and Denver has Roxborough State Park. It’s not nearly as famous as the Garden nor quite as dramatic. But in the suburbs southwest of downtown, this sanctuary of similar red rocks towers over wildflower-sprinkled meadows. Fountain Valley Trail is a great way to see the formations up close, while Carpenter Peak Trail is a way to view it all from above.
36 Il Rifugio
In an attempt to diversify and increase revenue streams, Colorado ski resorts over the years have expanded trails for mountain bikers who, like skiers, ride chairlifts for gravity-fed thrills. Winter Park remains the standard. More than 40 miles of trail twist, turn, jump and plunge around Trestle Bike Park. And just like the famed ski slopes, the trails are a mix of green, blue and double-black diamond.
40 City Park
The highest-elevation restaurant in North America? It’s in Colorado, of course. And it’s in Summit County. At 12,456 feet, Arapahoe Basin Ski Area opens Il Rifugio during the winter for guests eager for a lunch break along some of the most extreme slopes. They stop for wine, charcuterie, flatbreads and cannoli at this European-style bistro with 360-degree vistas that rival the Dolomites of Italy.
The 330-acre sanctuary in Denver offers something for everyone. Come for the greenery, a 3.1-mile recreation loop, the summer Jazz in the Park concert series, tennis, horseshoes, baseball, football, soccer, playgrounds, lakes and picnic sites. When you’ve had your fill, visit Denver Zoo or Denver Museum of Nature and Science, with its planetarium and IMAX theater, or tee it up at City Park Golf Course.
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Botanic Gardens 41 Denver A botanical refuge in the midst of Denver’s concrete
Broadmoor 46 The The iconic Colorado Springs hotel opened in 1918 as
forest is a welcome sight. Two locations offer different environments: The York Street site is a 24-acre urban oasis with an array of gardens and collections, while Chatfield Farms in Littleton boasts 700 acres of native plants along the banks of Deer Creek. Both offer events throughout the year, including a summer concert series, an 8-acre corn maze in the fall and Blossoms of Light during the holidays.
“the Grand Dame of the Rockies.” And so it remains. No U.S. resort has a longer-standing record of Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five-Diamond awards. No doubt, this is luxury hard to beat, found in the little details of a French pastry and an immaculate golf course. Add several options for fine dining plus excursions to the surrounding mountains, and you’ve got a stay beyond your wildest imagination.
Gators 42 Colorado Back in the late 1970s, near Alamosa, some folks tried to start a tilapia farm but wound up with a bunch of dead fish. They bought 100 baby alligators to take care of the fish remains. As the animals grew in the warm, geothermal waters, everybody begged to see them. Eventually, the owners opened the farm to the public. Along the way, the farm became an exotic animal refuge, taking in unwanted, illegal and abused reptiles from around the world.
of the Gods 43 Garden Join the 4.5 million annual visitors who drive through this iconic, statuesque and free city park in Colorado Springs. They come to admire the vermilion sedimentary rock formations perfectly placed amid the backdrop of Pikes Peak. They also come to capture themselves in photos, pretending to push over the famous Balanced Rock formation or mugging at just the right selfie angle with another famous rock formation, Kissing Camels, in the background.
Little Man Ice Cream Co. 44 The In 2008, this homegrown ice cream shop opened its first location in a 28-foot milk can in Denver’s LoHi neighborhood. Nearly two decades later, there are 11 locations along the Front Range. Visit The Little Man Ice Cream Factory, a 6,000-square-foot facility with an eccentric overhead conveyor belt, building block menus and a tasting room, for a glimpse at what goes into flavors such as Buttermilk Pancake, Pistachio Orange Blossom and Salted Oreo.
Platte River 45 South Every fly-fishing enthusiast knows their dream stream. But the South Platte River boasts THE Dream Stream, a 4-mile section meandering the valley between Spinney Mountain and Eleven Mile reservoirs. The Dream Stream contributes to South Platte’s Gold Medal Waters status, with other lauded sections found near Deckers and Cheesman Canyon. The trout here always seem to be biting, including browns, rainbows and the highly sought cutbow.
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& Silverton Railroad 47 Durango As you ride the steam-powered locomotive or the historic diesel train through the canyons and wilderness of the 2 million-acre San Juan National Forest, you will be traveling the same tracks that miners, cowboys and settlers blazed more than a century ago. After the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad arrived in Durango in 1881 and tracks to Silverton were completed in 1882, the train began transporting people, gold and silver from the San Juans.
Reservoir 48 Dillon This large lake is the centerpiece of Summit County, sitting at an elevation of 9,000 feet surrounded by several picturesque peaks. The town of Dillon and a hydroelectric plant were relocated to build the reservoir and its earth-fill dam, which diverts water into the South Platte River Basin. Completed in 1963, the reservoir is a popular hub for mountain recreation, including sailing, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking and boating.
49 State Forest State Park
State Forest is a rather obscure name, perhaps lending to the fact that this park is often overlooked. But people in the know have called it a “mini Rocky Mountain National Park.” In northwest Colorado near Walden, State Forest is not exactly mini; it’s Colorado’s biggest state park at 70,932 acres, boasting jagged peaks and alpine lakes similar to the more celebrated national park. A bonus: wildlife viewing in this area known as the “moose capital.”
Ice Park 50 Ouray You don’t have to be an ice climber to appreciate Colorado’s ice climbing mecca, sought by athletes and explorers worldwide. It’s easy to be transfixed by the Uncompahgre Gorge at the edge of Ouray, where water sprays down rocky faces during frigid winter nights and ice farmers grow bluish curtains and daggers. The annual Ouray Ice Festival in January might be the best time to go.
Times change, but your expectations should not. Colorado Springs looks a little different than it did when we started our banking journey in 1964 on Circle Drive. The clothes have changed, and our building has been completely remodeled since the original branch that was built after we waited patiently to begin construction while a little girl’s pumpkin patch was harvested. What has not changed is our commitment to the success of the people and businesses of Southern Colorado. In times of change, community banking can feel more like a marketing catchphrase than a lasting commitment to keeping decisions and decision makers local. You should be able to meet your banker in person. At ANB Bank we believe local still matters. When other banks move headquarters and decisions to far-off states, we stay local. Our leadership team in Colorado Springs has more than 120 years of combined expertise. They are as committed to the places we all call home as you are. For customers looking for a true community banking partner, ANB remains as it has always been: locally owned, independently managed, and deeply committed. ANB Bank. Still local. Still committed. More important than ever.
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51 Trappers Lake The “Cradle of Wilderness” is nestled deep in northwest Colorado. That’s the reputation of Trappers Lake, where a young U.S. Forest Service landscape architect ventured in 1919. Arthur Carhart declined to recommend proposed development, “considering these areas can never be restored to the original condition after man has invaded them, and the greatest value lying as it does in natural scenic beauty.” His words inspired the Wilderness Act of 1964.
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52 FIBArk FIBArk stands for “First in Boating the Arkansas,”
Elbert 54 Mount None of Colorado’s 54 fourteeners is created equal.
referring to a history that began in 1949. During the winter runoff one summer day in Salida, six boats launched into the river for what was considered a death-defying race over rapids. A few years later, Salida claimed the first whitewater slalom event in North America. The tradition continues with additional events for kayaks, rafts and costumed hooligans in what is the most festive time of year around town.
The terrain and trails on each dictate varying degrees of hiking, scrambling or technical climbing. And none of them rises as high as Elbert. Colorado’s tallest point is 14,438 feet, according to the elevation listed by 14ers.com, the trusted source for hikers. While steep and long, the website details a primary route considered Class 1, meaning the way to the state’s ceiling is relatively and graciously amenable.
Campground 53 Amphitheater Of the countless options across Colorado, how does a
Ziggurat 55 Crestone Many have never heard of Crestone, a tiny town at the
campground separate itself? With mountain views that define the “Switzerland of America.” With the proximity to Ouray’s shops, restaurants and hot springs. With the stars that shine bright here in southwest Colorado, above this natural amphitheater curiously formed by a volcanic eruption. Amphitheater Campground’s 35 sites are a mix of first-come, first-served and reservation-only.
base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in southern Colorado. Adjacent to town is The Baca Grande, a residential and retreat community that boasts more than a dozen spiritual centers, one of which is the Ziggurat, a tower perched on a hill. The public is welcome to enter, climb the spiral staircase and gaze at the panoramic view. It’s free and was built as a place for prayer and meditation.
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TEXT BY SETH BOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK REIS
LIVES ON
56 FLYING W RANCH
COLORADO LIVING 35
Family leans on faith to rebuild longtime favorite in the Springs
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T
he crowd has moved through the line, !lling trays with chicken, brisket, potatoes, beans, biscuits and applesauce made just the way an adoring mother made it more than 70 years ago. Now the people are back at their seats, back at the picnic tables lining this dining hall at a historic ranch in Colorado Springs,
where horses and cattle roam between green hills, red rock cathedrals and trickling streams, where the sun sets behind the mountains and the city twinkles in view. The Flying W Wranglers take the stage, cowboy hats and !ddle and all. “I wanna smell the Western air, from the back of a chestnut mare,” they start, the !ve
COLORADO LIVING 37
of them in harmony. The crowd sways as the voices rise. “Let me never wander from my Colorado home …” For generations, local regulars and tourists alike have found home at Flying W Ranch’s Chuckwagon Dinner Shows. What is it that has kept people coming back since 1953? “The romance of the Old West, it’s always been there,” says Leigh Ann Wolfe, who continues the tradition her parents started. “It’s a trip down memory lane,” says her son, Hutch, representing the fourth generation of the Flying W family. “The world’s going crazy, and this isn’t going crazy yet.” However idyllic, however seemingly protected and frozen in time, the whims of the world have left their mark on the ranch. In view is the scorched ridge from which the !ames came in 2012. The Waldo Canyon "re destroyed the place Leigh Ann’s parents built. Ever since she embarked on a multimillion-dollar rebuild and welcomed back guests in 2020, she has heard how beautiful it all is. How the "re had a way of clearing trees and opening a scene similar to the nearby Garden of the Gods. That’s not how Leigh Ann sees it. “It was the most beautiful ranch in the state of Colorado,” she says. “This is not even 10% of what it used to be.” Sometimes it’s hard for her to look out at it — the pines
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gone along with the dozens of structures resembling an Old West village, her father’s life’s work. Work remains hard for Leigh Ann approaching 70. She’s still raising horses and cattle like her grandparents and parents before her, still serving food many nights and running dishes alongside Hutch and her daughter, Ruth. The show happens every night of the summer, but “it’s an all-day thing,” Ruth says. And she’ll be here all day if she has to. “It’s a blessing what we do,” she says. It is as the family’s faith has always mandated: “to be a blessing to others,” Leigh Ann says. “To whom much is given, much is expected, and that’s really what I live my life on. I think (God) expects a lot of me, because I got to live in this very ideal situation growing up as a kid.” Leigh Ann grew up in the early years of the Flying W Chuckwagon Suppers and Original Western Stage Show, as it came to be billed. It all started here where Don Wilson moved his family in 1947, swapping the ranch in Kansas for this land once owned by Colorado Springs founder Gen. William Jackson Palmer. Wilson would raise champion quarter horses and Hereford bulls. His daughter, Marian, and her high school sweetheart, Russ Wolfe, would run the ranch upon Russ’ return from World War II. Along with the horses and cattle, Russ and Marian raised a family. Leigh Ann was born in 1956.
COLORADO LIVING 39
“They needed money in those early years,” she says. They saw an opportunity in the horseback rides that Russ led, ending with a home-cooked meal from Marian. Starting in 1957, the Flying W Wranglers attracted new crowds. From nightly guests counted on one or two hands at the beginning, the Chuckwagon now hosts tens of thousands every summer. The ranch maintains a story from Russ: “In time, there were still 20 horses but 400 people for dinner. Then there were 20 horses and 800 people for dinner, and then 20 horses and 1,000 people. We !nally just got rid of the horses.” He was mostly joking. Even as Russ spent decades building the trading post, drugstore, train depot, church and schoolhouse among nearly 30 buildings for his Western village, the family never abandoned horses and an old way of life. “It’s just what we did,” Leigh Ann says. “I wasn’t your typical kid. I worked all the time. From when I could walk, I was serving lemonade.” Her life took a rather drastic turn to New York City. Out of business school, she spent a decade trading foreign exchange on Wall Street. Later, she and her husband grew a successful business selling software to large companies. “We actually were in the process of selling it just before the !re,” Leigh Ann says. The 2012 !re changed any ideas she had for a slower life. She returned to the ranch, the beautiful green having been replaced by black with ash and rubble. Perhaps mercifully, Leigh Ann’s mother wasn’t around to see it. Her father was nearing the end of a struggle with dementia that could not hide his pain. “Everything they did, and it was just gone in the blink of an eye,” Leigh Ann says. Maybe, after all, she would go study art or slow down in some other way. Amid the wreckage, she could not imagine a future here.
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“My daughter was really the one who said, ‘Mom, we gotta do this,’” Leigh Ann recalls. “‘If we fail, we fail. But we’ve got to try. The legacy is too deep.’” And so the family went to work, taking money from the sale of the software business and pouring it into the new venue and other infrastructure. Along with permitting and insurance hassles, more attention went to highly technical environmental restoration and mitigation. All the while, Leigh Ann wondered, would people even want to come back? “It was misery,” she says. One thing still stood on the ranch, somehow: a charred cross, reminding of her faith. She had other reminders, including a poem from her grandfather. “You are never alone, you know,” Don Wilson wrote in the ranch’s early years. “When sorrow comes your way, many others’ thoughts and prayers are with you all the way.” That much was clear at the reopening in 2020. The people indeed came back, despite the loss of Old West buildings and trees. Maybe more buildings will return someday, along with the pines. Leigh Ann has hope: “My kids will see some trees in their lifetime.” As will generations of local regulars and tourists to come. Today, they come for a show that features a tribute to a family’s history. Leigh Ann stops to watch between running dishes. “I always tear up in the back,” she says. On the big screen behind the stage, pictures "ash of her grandparents and parents while the band sings. “I’m a whispering wind in the trees now …” There’s Leigh Ann as a kid. There she is with her own kids, Hutch and Ruth. The pictures continue with the song. “When you pass on, what you gonna pass down …” And then the last picture: Leigh Ann and the kids with their arms wrapped around each other, walking out to the ranch forever changed, forever home.
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57 Labor Day Lift Off There is no better backdrop for jelly bean-colored and unusually shaped hot air balloons than Pikes Peak. Every Labor Day weekend, dozens of pilots and their balloons from around the world converge on Memorial Park in Colorado Springs to soar through the blue skies. Music and other festivities !ll the days, and the long-standing free event caps off two of its three days with a balloon glow, where balloons stay grounded but are lit from the inside.
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Christian Murdock
58 Cheyenne Mountain Zoo
60 Mount Blue Sky Scenic Byway
59 Carousel of Happiness
61 Dotsero Crater
America’s most elevated zoo might just be its most scenic, perched along the Pikes Peak region’s second most iconic mountain. Yes, it’s more than just the native fauna that have made Cheyenne Mountain home for 100 years, starting with Broadmoor founder Spencer Penrose’s personal menagerie. The lions, tigers and bears have been popular, along with the elephants, monkeys and penguins. And 2026 marks a milestone with a new exhibit for the giraffes.
On the quieter side of the canyon opposite Boulder, the forests and meadows of Nederland would seem an ideal retreat for a Vietnam veteran. But for Scott Harrison, it wasn’t enough to escape the horrors of a war that followed him home. He needed to find joy. So he carved wooden animals that would ring a carousel to the tunes of a Wurlitzer organ. Not only did Harrison find joy along the way, but he also found a way to spread it for generations.
North America’s highest paved road offers much more than the view above 14,000 feet. Where do we begin? From the entrance, of course, where Echo Lake is a destination of its own. Say hello (at a distance) to mountain goats and bighorn sheep along the way to Mount Goliath Natural Area, where you can walk around some of Earth’s oldest trees: the eerie bristlecone pines. Next is Summit Lake above 12,800 feet. And then that glorious mountaintop.
Most drivers going west on Interstate 70 toward Glenwood Canyon have no idea they are passing Colorado’s only active volcano. That’s Dotsero, which left marks also barely noticed today along the interstate: fossilized lava flows from an eruption believed to have occurred 4,200 years ago. If one knows where to look, they can veer off I-70 for a gnarly track to the crater measuring 2,460 feet wide and 250 feet deep, according to the U.S. Geological Survey.
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Peak Summit Visitor Center 62 Pikes What began as a high-altitude weather station in 1873
66 Melanzana A fashion trend has taken off across Colorado since
is now a sleek, glassy complex hosting amazed visitors from around the world. They are indeed amazed by the incredible vistas here at 14,115 feet, reached via trail, road or railway. They are all the more amazed to learn of the colorful history told through the detailed exhibits here. And they don’t dare leave without at least one of the famous doughnuts made inside.
63 Four Corners Monument
In the desert beyond Cortez in southwest Colorado, the bronze disc in the ground might seem unremarkable. But this marks a spot unlike anywhere in the country: Here, you can simultaneously stand in four states. Along with Colorado, welcome to Arizona, Utah and New Mexico. And welcome to the Navajo Nation, which oversees the monument within a tribal park. Handmade jewelry and food are sold nearby.
Park City Museum 64 South You know South Park for the vulgar cartoon. Yes, here in Fairplay, you can pull off the road and take a picture pretending to be one of the characters whose fictional home is based on this place. Now continue to the museum honoring the gold mining history that first put South Park on the map. The museum, which includes 44 buildings and thousands of artifacts, represents the town that rose between 1860 and 1900.
Exchange 65 Buckhorn Bison? Check. Elk? Check. Lamb? Check. Duck, quail, alligator tail and Rocky Mountain oysters? Check, check, check and check — and, most famously, steak carved tableside. It’s all served in a multistory building packed with taxidermy and history. Buckhorn Exchange is known as Denver’s oldest operating restaurant, established in 1893. And it’s one of Colorado’s most unforgettable dining experiences.
1994, when a ski bum made home in a tipi and funneled his money and time into his dream of a fiercely independent store for outdoor clothing. The Melly was born. Cinching around the face and spanning the colors of the rainbow, the hoodie now seems synonymous with the state. And still today, Mellies are stitched by hand at the Leadville store.
Hot Springs 67 Conundrum Coloradans either soak at inviting resorts or they keep secret the hot springs they know around creeks and the wilds beyond. Long ago, the word leaked concerning Conundrum Hot Springs. Understandably so. It’s a magical dip deep in Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness, and it must be earned via a long, arduous hike. One needs to book a permit in advance to camp at the end of Conundrum Creek Trail.
Creek (for donkeys) 68 Cripple Donkeys are to Cripple Creek as cows are to India: revered. The equines were essential to miners during the Gold Rush. But when mining declined in the late 1920s, the donkeys were turned loose on the hills around town. Two Mile High Club was formed in 1931 to care for the donkeys and continues to do so today. Donkeys roam freely from Memorial Day to mid-October, when they return to their winter shelter.
Seasonings 69 Celestial A cup of tea can solve a lot of problems. Therefore, a visit to this almost 60-year-old tea factory in Boulder could ensure that you’ll live happily ever after. Take the 45-minute, behind-the-scenes tea tour, which includes a stop to steep in the Mint Room, where raw peppermint and spearmint are stored. Even if you don’t have time for the tour, visit the Tour Center for free tastings of an array of teas.
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CUSSLER MUSEUM
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SHRINE ON WHEELS TEXT BY JENNIFER MULSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK REIS
COLORADO LIVING 47
N 48 COLORADO LIVING
ovelist Clive Cussler’s fictional character Dirk Pitt was a swashbuckling, car-loving, shipwreck-seeking sort of hero. Pretty much like the man who created him. Cussler, the New York Times best-selling author who died in 2020 at 88, left behind an impressive legacy. Not only did he write around 80 thrillers by the time of his death and leave several series that co-authors, including his son, are still producing, but he also acquired dozens of classic cars and uncovered more than 60 shipwreck sites with his National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA). His most famous find was the H.L. Hunley, a Confederate vessel that was the first submarine to sink an enemy war-
ship in combat. “He was a fun, adventurous man,” says his daughter, Teri Toft. “He had a lot of great stories. He was a real character with a good sense of humor. Intelligent. Very kind man.” Toft is the director of Cussler Museum, which opened in 2005 in Arvada. The nondescript building stands hidden o! one of the main roads through town. Inside the front doors is a sight that stokes awe in even non-car enthusiasts, as 65 of Cussler’s 95-car collection are on display, shimmering with lustrous chrome and metal. Some are repainted in colors that look like Skittles; others are as shiny as the back of a black widow. Duesenberg, Bugatti, Bentley, Minerva, Ca-
dillac, Studebaker, Packard, Rolls-Royce, Mercury. All the big names are here, and in immaculate condition. The museum is only open May through September. In the o!season, these vehicles get tune-ups from in-house mechanics and are taken out for short trips on the road. Cars from the 1950s and 1960s fill the first room; classics from the 1920s and 1930s inhabit the second. “There’s a lot of stu! here you won’t see anywhere else,” assistant curator Henry Jackson says, motioning to various vehicles around the room. “That purple car there — a 1925 Isotta Fraschini, a high-end Italian car — they only made two of those in that body style. We hear the other one does exist; it’s in Connecticut. When it was new, it cost $28,000 in 1928. A brand-new Ford was $450 (then).” Throughout the museum, visitors see glimpses of the author himself, smiling in photos as he poses with di!erent cars on the back covers of his novels. He liked to include his cars in his books, such as his cranberry-colored 1936 Avions Voisin that was featured in the 1992 novel “Sahara.” The book inspired the 2005 film of the same name starring Matthew McConaughey. “Fans have read his books for years,” Toft says, “so when they come here, they’re so excited to see the actual car that was in that book.” Cussler’s love of cars began in the 1930s, as he grew up in Los Angeles and watched celebrities drive around in their big, fancy town cars, Toft says. He always wanted to own one. In the 1970s, Cussler moved his family out of the “rat race
of California,” his daughter says, and to Estes Park, where they lived a couple of years before moving to Arvada. The patriarch was working at a Denver ad agency in 1973 when he published his first book, “The Mediterranean Caper,” and introduced the world to beloved character Dirk Pitt. “After the Dirk Pitt books became bestsellers, I could afford to buy the more exotic examples of classic autos,” a Cussler quote reads on the museum’s website. “I purchased a 1955 Rolls-Royce that my wife liked because it was new the year we were married. Then came a 1926 Hispano Suiza cabriolet that I bought at my first classic car auction after I had three martinis.” Over time, Cussler became friends with a man who had a restoration shop in the building that now houses the museum. Cussler would store his cars there while his friend worked on them. After the author and his wife left town, splitting their time between Telluride and Arizona, it made sense to keep the car collection in Arvada, and it was eventually turned into the museum. “A lot of these are in their original condition,” Toft says. “This isn’t your typical car collection. These cars are all unique in one way or another.” As is the real-life ship in the middle of the museum. After creating the fictional NUMA in his books, Cussler founded the actual nonprofit NUMA and authored nonfiction books about his seafaring adventures. This is the vessel he and his team used to search for shipwrecks.
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Mines Interpretive Park 71 Paint This dreamscape of colorful rock certainly surprises
Wilderness 73 Weminuche Spanning southwest Colorado, Weminuche is the
on the plains east of Colorado Springs, near Calhan. It is not a painter who splashed the formations in white, pink, purple and orange, but rather Mother Nature through deep time. Now the Paint Mines attracts photographers and day trippers amazed by the images increasingly posted across social media. About 4 miles of trail roam around the hoodoos, while the imagination runs endlessly on.
state’s largest wilderness area at 499,771 acres. That’s three-quarters the size of Rhode Island. Which begs the question for prospective backpackers: Where, oh where, to begin? Most popular, according to Colorado Mountain Club, is Needle Creek Trail. From a stop on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, the trail runs to Chicago Basin, where one can camp and climb three 14,000-foot peaks.
Arkansas Riverwalk 72 Historic The Arkansas River has always been the lifeblood of
City Opera House 74 Central “The Marriage of Figaro,” “Carmen,” “Madama Butter-
Pueblo, providing the route settlers followed and also the floodwaters that required the town to transform after 1921. Flash forward to the 1990s, when civic leaders were considering ways to breathe life into downtown. Their inspiration was San Antonio, but Pueblo’s riverwalk would be its own unique gem — a scenic way to engage with the town’s colorful art, history and dining scene.
fly,” “The Light in the Piazza.” Traditional and progressive operas are always in play at the fifth-oldest professional opera company in the U.S. Founded in 1932, the world-renowned opera is best known for its summer festival, which features multiple productions inside the 550-seat opera house built in 1878. The opera also conducts concerts, cabarets and education programs throughout the year.
Marigold Bistro
146 E Cheyenne Mountain Blvd. Colorado Springs 719-630-0201
Hours
Tuesday – Saturday (Closed Sunday & Monday) Breakfast: 7 am – 2 pm Lunch: 11 am – 2 pm Dinner: 5 pm – 9 pm
Happy Hour
Tuesday – Thursday 4 pm – 6 pm
Visit us!
Historic, iconic restaurant in Pueblo since 1934
Claim to fame: the “slopper.” A vehicle for Pueblo’s amazing chile: two grilled burger patties, American cheese served open-faced on a bun in a bowl then smothered with either housemade green chile, red chile or both. Served with French fries and onions on top.
515 W 4th St, Pueblo, CO 81003 Follow us! @facebook.com/grayscoorstavern 50 COLORADO LIVING
Marigold Cafe & Bakery
4605 Centennial Blvd. Colorado Springs 719-599-4775
Hours
Tuesday – Saturday (Closed Sunday & Monday) Bakery: 9 am – 9 pm Lunch: 11 am – 2:30 pm Dinner: 5 pm – 9 pm
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900 East Espanola Street Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719.385.6934 coloradosprings.gov/pattyjewett
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The finest views in Colorado Springs are nestled right in the heart of Valley Hi Golf Course. Tee off surrounded by the scenery of Pikes Peak and Cheyenne Mountain. This course has hidden challenges for all levels and offers discounts to our veterans.
610 South Chelton Road Colorado Springs, CO 80910 719.385.6911 coloradosprings.gov/valleyhi
COLORADO LIVING 51
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Denver Union Station What started as Denver Union Depot, the tallest building in the West in 1881, is now a cultural hub in the LoDo neighborhood. A !re destroyed the original building in 1894. While it was rebuilt, a growing city and a growing appetite for train travel soon signaled the structure was too small. It was replaced in 1914 with Denver Union Station. Nowadays, visitors "ock to dine at the restaurants, peruse the various shops and stay at The Crawford Hotel.
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& Pikes Peak Cog Railway 76 Manitou More than satisfied by the views but less than satisfied
National Monument 78 Dinosaur The main draw is Quarry Exhibit Hall, where a rock wall
by the tough, two-day trip on a mule, Zalmon Simmons envisioned a more convenient way up Pikes Peak. His vision became reality on June 30, 1891: Members of a church choir were passengers on the first train to the 14,115-foot summit. And passengers ever since have been inspired to sing “America the Beautiful,” Katharine Lee Bates’ song that was inspired by the scenery of America’s Mountain.
encases 1,500 fossils of beasts from the Late Jurassic. But there is much more to see and do at Dinosaur National Monument, which encompasses canyonlands in northwest Colorado and Utah. Primitive roads lead to spectacular destinations such as Echo Park and Gates of Lodore. Others explore by backpacking or, when the Green and Yampa rivers are running, by unforgettable rafting.
wood gas station 77 Petrified Over the years, along the main drag through Lamar, an old man at the auto shop next door has emerged to hand a brochure to people stopping by this peculiar building. Built in the 1930s, “it was touted as the oldest working gas station in the world,” the brochure reads. The walls of fossilized wood, after all, are thought to be 175 million years old. “Lamar’s Believe-It-Or-Not Filling Station” no longer operates but still stands as a roadside icon.
Repertory Theatre 79 Creede Founded in 1966, the award-winning company in the small mountain town has made a national name for itself thanks to its four professional productions from May through September. Throughout the year, the theater also hosts musical events and concerts, offers educational programming and develops new works. The theater employs about 75 artists to produce the four shows, with more than 18,000 patrons taking in more than 120 performances.
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MANITOU CLIFF DWELLINGS Explore the fascinating architecture of the ancient cliff dwellers and browse through museums featuring cultural displays all overlooking beautiful, historic Manitou Springs.
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Wolf’s Tailor 80 The When Michelin Guide started honoring Colorado’s food scene in 2023, The Wolf’s Tailor was one of five restaurants to earn a coveted star. In 2025, it became the state’s first and only restaurant to gain two stars. No doubt this sleek spot in Denver’s Sunnyside neighborhood is breaking culinary boundaries. Michelin inspectors have praised it for “a seamless dining experience as intriguing as its name.”
Dollar Highway 81 Million This is the common name for the 25-mile stretch of
Bells 85 Maroon For all the photos gracing office walls, calendars and postcards, none does the scene justice. Go ahead, get your picture. But then stand still and simply appreciate everything the camera can’t capture. The enormity of these twin 14,000-foot peaks. The stillness of the lake reflecting those jagged mountains and sloping forest. And the silence — if you’re fortunate enough to be here in the winter.
Field at Mile High 86 Empower Ownership is working to build a new stadium for the
U.S. 550 between Ouray and Silverton. It’s a name of unknown origin. Maybe for the million-dollar views? Maybe for the storied cost to build? Or maybe it’s for some saying it would take $1 million for them to drive the road of sheer drop-offs and hairpin turns. Maybe we’re braver than others, but we’d happily take the loot as well as the views. Well, maybe not in winter, when avalanches are an added risk.
Denver Broncos on the opposite side of Interstate 25. But memories from two chapters of Mile High won’t soon be forgotten: from the “Orange Crush” defense of the 1970s, to the John Elway magic of the 1980s, to the back-to-back Super Bowl title runs of the 1990s, to Peyton Manning’s more recent run to a championship. There’s nothing quite like a Sunday afternoon inside this house.
82 Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center
Springs Penny Arcade 87 Manitou At the foot of Pikes Peak and at the heart of the quirky
Originally known as Broadmoor Art Academy, this cultural mecca was opened in 1919 by Julie and Spencer Penrose, who owned The Broadmoor. Intended as a national art school, it attracted influential artists and teachers, including Boardman Robinson and Birger Sandzen. In 1936, the first building was razed, and in its place emerged the Fine Arts Center, with a theater and a museum featuring a burgeoning and acclaimed collection of works.
Buttes 83 Pawnee Like most Coloradans, the late and great nature photographer John Fielder was most drawn to the state’s mountains. But he did not overlook the plains. Indeed, one of his favorite places was in the northeast at Pawnee National Grassland — this place of two surprising, castlelike buttes. They loom some 300 feet above the prairie, reached via a series of dirt roads in the northeast corner of Weld County.
Hotel 84 Strater In 1887, Henry Strater, a pharmacist from Cleveland, believed so greatly in Durango’s ability to become a thriving town that he built a great hotel and established his Strater-Thorpe Drugstore in a corner of the structure. That corner now houses The Diamond Belle Saloon, which was restored in 1957 with its original tin ceiling, upper plate glass windows and stained glass. Today, the Belle Girls serve up American food in their period costumes.
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and idyllic town known as “Hippie Mayberry” sits a one-of-a-kind pocket of nostalgia and Americana. Pinball and Pac-Man live on here, along with SkeeBall, mechanical horse derby and hundreds of other interesting games. You know the drill: Rack up a stash of tickets to earn a variety of prizes. And enjoy hot dogs, funnel cake, ice cream and cotton candy as you go.
Falls 88 Rifle Take it from a sign posted here in this surprisingly lush pocket of the Western Slope: “Rifle Falls State Park might be as close to the tropics as you will find in Colorado.” Visitors do indeed feel transported by the three-pronged waterfall roaring down mossy limestone. The stunning trio of cascades delivers a cool, misty breeze below. A trail leads above Rifle Falls, taking one also to curious caves.
Dark Sky Places 89 International Astrotourism has been growing in Colorado, along with the number of parks and towns gaining International Dark Sky designation — sites lacking the light pollution that blots out the stars most everywhere else. The number was 21 at last check. Westcliffe started the trend in the state, with Crestone, Ridgway and Paonia among towns gaining Dark Sky status later. Great Sand Dunes, Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Florissant Fossil Beds are Dark Sky parks.
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FARM FRESH TEXT BY SETH BOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK REIS
90 Produce towns
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A
“million-dollar breeze” is said to drift through DeBeque Canyon, blessing the peach trees of Palisade. For the special fruit, western Colorado farmers have cited other factors: warm days and cool nights that are said to similarly bless other parts of the state where famed produce grows. To be a Coloradan is to be an eager consumer of Palisade peaches, Olathe sweet corn, Pueblo green chiles and Rocky Ford melons. We long every year for the harvest, for stocked grocery stores and farmers markets. And yes, for these sweet and spicy delights, we have our unique climate to thank — along with farming families who have endured both natural and economic forces for generations. Take, for example, the Clarks of Palisade. They are known as the longest-running peach-growing family in the Grand Valley, where in 1897 James Clark came to plant trees. J.P. Harlow planted a decade before him, among pioneers who dug ditches and harnessed the river to transform this dusty, desolate desert into a lush and green destination. Every August, many !ock to the Palisade Peach Festival, a tradition spanning a century. Around the same time each year, the Olathe Sweet Corn Festival represents a more recent tradition on the Western Slope, going back to 1990. By then, John Harold of Tuxedo Corn Co. had found a way to grow and market the product born from a local scientist’s hybrid seed. The scientist credited “a sugary enhancer gene” for the tender, juicy kernels resembling the colors of milk and butter. Work would not always be sweet for Harold. Like all farmers, he would pray for rain and snow to "ll water
reserves and hope against "re, freeze and infestation, all while navigating the whims of the economy and an immigrant workforce. He shrugged when we met him, as he was approaching 80. “Just a way of life,” he said. As it is for growers of Colorado’s beloved pepper. The Pueblo green chile is also known as “Mirasol,” meaning “facing the sun.” Other chiles, including New Mexico’s rival Hatch chile, face down from the stem. The bordering state’s chile has the bene"t of history. While the Pueblo green chile we know today only gained prominence in the early 2000s, “New Mexico started marketing chiles 100 years ago,” Gary DiTomaso of DiTomaso Farms said in a previous interview. But we Coloradans know the better pepper, lining Pueblo’s roaster-"lled streets as we do every September for the Chile & Frijoles Festival. And we might take a detour east — straight to the source of our favorite cantaloupe and watermelon. Rocky Ford is the “Sweet Melon Capital” that George Washington Swink launched during the 1870s. Fittingly, along with the "elds of melons, he established a bustling sugar factory. “The typical non-Rocky Ford cantaloupe will average a sugar content of 10% or less,” according to advertisements from back in the day. “Rocky Ford cantaloupe can reach up to a sugar content of 15%, with specialty melons registering even higher!” They are special indeed — a fact that one top grower tries not to forget. “I’ve eaten so many over my life,” said Michael Hirakata of Hirakata Farms. “But when (they’re) gone, I really miss it.”
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Bluegrass Festival 91 Telluride The headline acts compete with the scenery for best in show at this iconic music festival in the San Juans of southwest Colorado. What started as a hippie gathering in the box canyon surrounding Telluride is now one of the most popular music festivals in the U.S., staged around the summer solstice. Beyond bluegrass, the event showcases Americana, jazz, R&B, gospel and classical music. Be forewarned: It sells out incredibly fast.
Street Mall 92 Pearl You haven’t visited Boulder if you haven’t strolled the four-block, red-brick, pedestrian-only thoroughfare lined with hundreds of local businesses. Fifty-four men founded Boulder City Town Co. in 1859, and the street is believed to have been named for one of their wives. Buskers provide entertainment while children can climb on various installations. A few of the stalwart institutions include Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse, Art Mart and Boulder Bookstore.
Force Academy 93 Air More than 55,000 cadets have prepared for careers as U.S. Air Force and Space Force leaders here since 1955, when 306 men were sworn in. Guests are welcome to visit the General Bradley and Zita Hosmer Visitor Center, Honor Court, Arnold Hall and the Planetarium. 2028 is expected to bring the return of the Air Force Academy Cadet Chapel, an aluminum, glass and steel structure featuring 17 spires that stretch 150 feet into the sky.
Stanley 94 The Colorado’s most recognizable and storied hotel sits in its white, red-roof glory atop a hill overlooking Estes Park. All credit goes to F.O. Stanley for the 1909 construction, but Stephen King also deserves credit for another level of fame that grew from his 1974 overnight. The Stanley inspired the horror author to write “The Shining,” as chronicled during one eerie tour here. Guests can lean into the paranormal in other ways, or can simply lean into luxury.
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Grand Lake At 400 feet deep and with a surface area of 500 acres, this is the state’s deepest and largest natural body of water. It’s not the only body of water around: Shadow Mountain Lake and Lake Granby are nearby reservoirs for boating and !shing enthusiasts. Those types, along with more general sightseers, have a perfect base camp in the town of Grand Lake, perhaps Colorado’s closest thing to a beach town.
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Chancey Bush
Gorge Bridge & Park 96 Royal It is impossible to list Colorado’s natural marvels. As
Coors Tavern 98 Gray’s The year is uncertain, sometime in the 1950s, but the
for its manmade marvels, the list might start with the Royal Gorge Bridge. Spanning the rugged rims nearly 1,000 feet above the Arkansas River, it was hailed the world’s highest bridge upon completion in 1929. All the more astonishing: It was reportedly built in only seven months. Nowadays, people come for more than just the bridge. Attractions include a gondola, zip line, skycoaster and via ferrata.
May Museum Center 97 John Along Colorado 115 south of Colorado Springs sits
name of the customer and his bizarre order live on in Pueblo lore. Here at Gray’s Coors Tavern — Johnnie’s Coors Tavern back then — Herb Casebeer asked owner Johnnie Greco to “slop up” his burger. Greco poured red chili over it. The slopper was born, soon to evolve with the more accepted green chili. The most indelicate delicacy can now be ordered around the state, but this is where it all began.
(for skijoring) 99 Leadville If skijoring were born in Colorado, Steamboat Springs
a giant beetle on a hill. Don’t worry, the herculean Herkimer won’t bite. He is only a statue, inviting visitors to one of the state’s most bizarre museums. Behold thousands of specimens of beetles, spiders, scorpions, butterflies, moths and more collected by John May during far-flung adventures. He opened the museum in 1952, and his family has continued it ever since.
would be the logical birthplace. It is there, after all, where cowboy and skier historically converged. And it is there, in 1949, where event-organizing friends in Leadville witnessed a horse pulling a skier — at a pace they thought could be increased. Thus, it is said, Colorado’s racing version of skijoring was born. The annual competition takes to Leadville’s main street the first weekend of March.
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Western Stock Show 100 National Since 1906, the premier livestock, rodeo and horse show in the U.S. has taken up residence in Denver for 16 days each January. A parade of more than 30 longhorns hoofing through the streets of downtown kicks things off. That is followed by one of the world’s richest regular-season professional rodeos, one of the country’s largest horse shows and Colorado’s paramount western trade show. More than 700,000 attend every year.
Wild Animal Sanctuary 101 The This nearly 1,500-acre refuge in Keenesburg, located
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20 miles east of Denver International Airport, is home to about 1,000 lions, tigers, jaguars, cheetahs, bears, wolves, leopards, mountain lions, camels and other species. All were rescued from miserable living conditions. Instead of observing the animals at eye level, visitors take in the full scene from above, using a 1.5-mile elevated walkway to reduce stress on the residents.
102 Arkansas River
This is one of the most popular whitewater rafting destinations in the country, with more than 150 rafting miles, 80 of which are designated Class II to Class V rapids. Brown trout and rainbows fill the water, and fly-fishers eagerly wade the nearly 80 miles of public access from Leadville to Cañon City. Those who travel the length of the Upper Arkansas River region will score views of 15 of Colorado’s 14,000foot peaks.
103 Palisade Fruit & Wine Byway
There’s more than just peaches in Palisade. It’s home to 30 wineries, dreamy lavender gardens and several fresh farm stands. And rather than picking and choosing spots, the town implores you to hop on a bike and follow country roads for flavorful serendipity. The Fruit & Wine Byway features 5-, 7-, and 25-mile courses that explore orchards, vineyards and wineries not far from the Colorado River.
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Gardens 104 Elitch Denver’s premier amusement park was originally a
Carson County Carousel 106 Kit The heyday of the classic, wooden carousel ended in
zoo, opened in 1890 by John and Mary Elitch on the outskirts of town. In 1892, it became home to Elitch Theatre, the city’s first professional theater and the country’s first summer stock theater company. That first location closed in 1994, and the current theme park opened downtown a year later. Now it’s home to thrills and chills throughout the summer, with more than 50 rides.
the 1930s. It’s rare to find one today, and even rarer to find one fully functional. “One of the finest survivors,” as the Kit Carson County Carousel calls itself, sits on the eastern edge of Colorado, in Burlington. Built in 1905, the carousel maintains even the paint of its lions, tigers, zebras and giraffes. At the center of the ride is a massive band organ billed by Wurlitzer as “The Twentieth Century Wonder.”
Road 105 Shelf If you’re not a climber, you might think we’re talking
Light & Sons 107 F.M. “Frank M. Light stood on the train platform in Wolcott,
about a road here. And, yes, Shelf Road is a road — a scenic, historic road that makes its way over a narrow, steep ledge. But we’re talking more about the paved lower stretch near Cañon City that accesses the most significant rock climbing hub in the state. In the 1970s and 1980s, sport climbing soared to new heights at these limestone cliffs. Shelf Road continues to mold the next generation of climbers.
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on a cold Colorado day in April 1905, along with his wife and seven children, aged 11 months to 17.” So begins this Steamboat Springs store’s own written history, continuing with the family launching the merchandise business seven months later. Fast forward more than 120 years and five generations of family, and the store continues to outfit cowboys and wannabe cowboys alike.
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108 Kebler Pass If aspen trees along this dirt road out of Crested Butte were researched, some suspect a grove could match the size of Utah’s Pando, known as the largest grove anywhere. That’s all to say Kebler Pass is as good as it gets for fall leaf peeping in Colorado. The image of a multicolored canopy backdropped by the stark Ruby Range does not soon leave the mind. And when it does, you’ll have hundreds of photos to remind you.
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Christian Murdock
Bill Museum & Grave 109 Buffalo Upon his death in 1917, the famous Wild West enter-
Canyon of the Gunnison 111 Black The vertical, Gunnison River-carved walls of this west-
tainer wished to be buried atop Lookout Mountain in Golden. One look at the view here, and it’s easy to understand why. William “Buffalo Bill” Cody rests where the mountains and plains provide an endless panorama. Inside the adjacent museum, guests can learn more about the man who went from herding cattle, fur trapping and gold mining to delighting audiences near and far.
ern Colorado national park have long called to stout rock climbers. Ambitious backcountry explorers have also been called to the steep landscape’s inner wilds. But most stay above Black Canyon of the Gunnison, opting for a simple and incredibly scenic drive along the South Rim, where a dozen overlooks invite visitors to stop and marvel at the scene. There are mild trails along the way, too.
of the Winds Mountain Park 110 Cave Caves are popularly thought of as being underground.
Belgium Brewing Co. 112 New In one of the nation’s top craft beer states, we think
Cave of the Winds, rather, is high in the foothills above Manitou Springs — a legendary realm of stalactites, stalagmites and other dreamy formations to be explored on tours that will have you walking or crawling and climbing. The park takes advantage of its exterior terrain as well, including the Terror-dactyl Canyon Swing that drops riders more than 150 feet at nearly 100 mph.
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there’s no better place to sip than Fort Collins. And New Belgium might be the best place to start. After all, it could be said this is where the town’s craft beer scene took off. In 1988, a young couple rode bikes and tasted beer around Belgium and then returned home to start a brewery that would expand palates in their own country. It’s a story you’ll hear along the tour, sampling as you go.
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Wire Canyonlands 113 Picket In southeast Colorado, maybe you’ve heard about one of the world’s largest known dinosaur track sites. But have you heard about the Native American petroglyphs and ruins of a historic Mexican mission and settlement also found here at the floor of the bowlshaped canyon? It’s all on display via seasonal tours offered by the U.S. Forest Service, the only way to visit by vehicle. Otherwise, it’s a long trip by foot, bike or horseback on Withers Canyon Trail.
Jo’s 114 Beau It’s not New York-style thin, and it’s not quite Chicago-style thick. But Colorado-style pizza is certainly on the heftier side, true to the state’s terrain. The puffy crust rolls like the mountains, and it’s best enjoyed with a drizzle of honey. Along with the original location in Idaho Springs, the mountain pie and a flatter “prairie” version can now be found in six other towns: Arvada, Denver, Evergreen, Fort Collins, Lone Tree and Steamboat Springs.
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Dollar Saloon 115 Silver The saloon calls itself “a living piece of Leadville’s history.” Look no further than the bar made of mahogany and oak that was crafted in St. Louis and transported to this building, which rose alongside Leadville in the glory days of mining. Silver Dollar Saloon opened in 1879 to host the likes of “Doc” Holliday, the “Unsinkable” Molly Brown and Oscar Wilde. Visitors today can walk where they walked in the place that has remained much the same.
Dead Guy Days 116 Frozen Some stories are stranger than fiction. Take, for example, the story of Bredo Morstøl. In 1989 in Nederland, he was laid to rest in a frozen tomb by his Norwegian grandson, who was drawn to the rebirthing theory of cryonics. The plan was scuttled by deportation, but locals continued to pack Grandpa’s body with ice. And they celebrated him with a festival. It continues in Estes Park, where Grandpa rests at The Stanley’s International Cryonics Museum.
Tower power of
TEXT BY SETH BOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHANCEY BUSH
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The Tank Center for Sonic Arts
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g
azing at the 65-foot cylinder of rusted steel atop a remote, sandy hill in western Colorado, it was impossible to have any expectations of what we would experience inside. Suddenly, we escaped the desert heat of Rangely for a dark space cut by streamers of Technicolor light and filled with sound that is hard to describe. “Transcendent” and “otherworldly” were the words of a board member of The TANK Center for Sonic Arts, the nonprofit that hosts concerts and recording sessions and invites all to “explore and experiment” on select Saturdays. How else to describe The Tank, we asked the board member, whose whispers reverberated o! the rounded, steel walls as a guitarist’s strumming and a singer’s humming sent notes seemingly to the top of the tank. It all blended and endlessly echoed. “It’s just the space,” the board member said. “The space is so giving.” It is a space unlike any other in Colorado — “a mind-blowing revelation,” in the words of another board member, Todd Barton. Could it be something about these thick, curving walls? Something about the region’s heat that energizes sound waves? Something about the remoteness? The Tank’s website points to this old water storage being placed on a bed of gravel that formed “a gentle parabola, giving it an extraordinary internal acoustical resonance.” Musicians, composers and “sonic adventurers” have tried to characterize the experience over the years. Ben Neill, the inventor of an instrument called the Mutantrumpet, remembered his visit as “mystical and profoundly moving.” Some before and after him have been moved to tears, as if overwhelmed or overjoyed. Neill continued: “As I played, I was struck by how the sound seemed to spiral upward, as if the notes were ascending into in!nity. … The upward movement of the sound created a kind of antigravity sensation, like "oating upward on the powerful resonances that were materializing inside of the space.” The phenomenon has been known since the 1960s, when the water tank was left empty and rabble-rousing youth were sneaking through the drain hole. Word got around in little Rangely. In 1976, fresh out of music school on the other side of the country, Bruce Odland was here testing sounds across the local oil !elds on an exploration trip through Colorado. “And then this truck drove up,” he said in a previous interview. “Two burly oil workers come up to me in a big
truck covered in mud, and they ask me if I’m the sound guy. They said, ‘We’ve got something to show you.’” The men banged two-by-fours and tossed rocks at the tank while Odland stood inside. “And when they stopped, it rang and rang and rang,” he said — “10 times the effect of stepping into St. Paul’s Cathedral.” Odland further spread the word to fellow underground musicians, and the tank indeed took on a religious reputation. Word spread even further when the tank’s owner got the idea to scrap the steel. A young, local singer who is now The Tank’s assistant director, Samantha Wade, recalled desperately praying for a solution. “Because I felt like it just could not happen. It just felt like a violation of my soul,” she said. “And luckily by then, so many others experienced it to where it was far from just me.” Fellow locals and artsy types far beyond Colorado banded together to buy the structure. The nonpro!t was formed in 2013. And word has kept spreading. Wrote The New Yorker’s music critic in 2017, not long after The Tank opened to the public: “One road to the musical future now runs through Rangely.” Rangely, of all places — this proudly conservative pocket of ranching, mining and church-going where self-described mis!ts such as Wade have found a place to !t in. “I was the weird one,” she said. But The Tank has a curious way of bringing people together, she and other musicians have explained. Recalled Barton: “Actually being in The Tank and learning and breathing with it rewired my mind, body and soul. I learned a deeper and slower way of listening.” One must listen carefully to match his or her voice with another’s. The nonpro!t’s executive director, James Paul, has observed this during open house Saturdays. “I’ve had groups of strangers go in, and one will start humming, another will start humming and, in about 10 minutes, they sound like a celestial choir,” Paul said. These are strangers whose differences go beyond musical abilities, he added. All they have to do is listen to each other and !nd harmony. “There’s something to be said about an experience that takes you out of yourself and takes you away from ordinary concerns,” Paul said. “That’s one of the reasons The Tank has transcended politics, I think. And in this moment of American history, that’s such a delight.” COLORADO LIVING 69
Celebrate Every Moment
Park Hot Springs 118 Strawberry Idyllic is one word to describe the five pools ensconced in an aspen grove 6 miles north of Steamboat Springs. Heaven is another. You can stop by for a quick soak in the mineral-rich waters or enjoy an overnight in one of the on-site accommodations. Much like Goldilocks, you are sure to find a pool with the ideal temperature for you. Children are welcome, though the springs turn clothing-optional after dark.
Street Mall 119 16th The pedestrian-friendly experience stretches more than a mile and features dozens of trendy stores and popular restaurants. Along the way, shoppers will find plenty of shade, seating and public art as well as play structures for kids. Free shuttle buses run the corridor every 5 minutes, stopping on every corner. The street connects Denver Union Station at one end to Civic Center Park at the other.
State Fair 120 Colorado More than 150 years ago, Pueblo residents launched a little fair to highlight agriculture. That fair, which runs late August through early September, now encompasses more than 100 acres and includes an array of entertainment, with nationally known music acts, Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association events, a carnival, monster trucks and a demolition derby, and competitions in 4-H, baking, sewing, livestock and more.
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and Rockies. Coloradans love skiing — down slopes and through streets pulled by horses, in the case of skijoring. But the official state sport? That’s pack burro racing, in which runners go with trusty or stubborn steeds through the hills as miners once did. And maybe the best showcase of the sport is in the old mining town of Fairplay, which began this tradition in 1949.
Ranch Grill 122 James In 1961, newlyweds Dave and Kay James came to Durango with a dream to raise a family around a farm. That dream was realized, along with a holistic and regenerative way of raising animals and gardening while respecting the land. With the restaurant on the ranch, the family trusts guests will taste the difference. They order from the window and take a seat among chickens and goats. Cattle graze in the nearby fields.
123 Argo Mill & Tunnel
125 Juniper Valley Ranch
National Monument 124 Colorado All too often, drivers continue through Grand Junction
Colorado City 126 Old From downtown Colorado Springs, follow Colorado
The Colorado gold rush is said to have begun in Idaho Springs, which was not a town when George Jackson discovered gold there. The town quickly rose after, along with the surrounding area that became known as “the richest square mile on Earth.” That red edifice you see today from Interstate 70 had a lot to do with it. You can still tour the largely intact mill that processed more than $100 million worth of ore starting in 1893.
for Utah’s red rock wonderlands and miss the one here. The name is not as enticing as Arches or Canyonlands, but Colorado National Monument boasts similar beauty. Looping 23 miles around the upper perimeter, Rim Rock Drive is one way to appreciate the colorful walls, monoliths and pillars. Trails dropping down to the valley floor offer more epic ways.
In the countryside south of Colorado Springs sits a small adobe home along land homesteaded by Guy Parker. One summer night in 1951, his daughters invited friends to a family-style dinner of fried chicken and all the fixings. The tradition continues today. Along with crackling chicken from the skillet, guests gather around riced potatoes and gravy, biscuits and apple butter, coleslaw, okra casserole and the homemade dessert of the day.
Avenue west toward Pikes Peak, toward this historic district that rose during the gold rush and appears much like it did in those days of miners, gamblers and ladies of the night. Victorian buildings line the busy street, home to an array of bars, restaurants, boutiques and galleries. It’s an old-timey scene fit for an old-timey Christmas celebration: the Christkindlmarket is set to return in December.
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Veil Falls 127 Bridal Imagine living by Colorado’s tallest waterfall, streaking a cliff face for 365 feet amid the mountains of Telluride. It’s easy to imagine, seeing the house there atop the cliff. That’s the old Smuggler-Union Hydroelectric Power Plant that did indeed double as a home throughout history, dating to a company man in the early 1900s. No one calls Bridal Veil Falls home now, though hikers no doubt wish they could stay here at one of the state’s most scenic sites.
Bar 128 Bruce’s “Welcome to Severance,” the sign in this northern Colorado town reads, “where the geese fly and the bulls cry.” The geese fly to the delight of hunters, who for generations have huddled in Bruce’s Bar for Colorado’s oddest fried food. Why do the bulls cry? Because, well, Rocky Mountain oysters are not oysters nor are they chicken fingers, however similar the appearance. Don’t ask questions; just eat them here at the bar known to serve more of them than anywhere else in the state.
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hauling guests quite vertically up a mountainside above Manitou Springs. The rides ended in 1990, giving way to a cultish fitness phenomenon; athletes trespassed on company land to step up and down the abandoned railroad ties. The Incline became public in 2013, and thus the tourist attraction was reborn into, well, a publicized fitness phenomenon. People near and far come to be challenged.
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Incline 130 Manitou It began as a tourist attraction, a scenic railway
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when the team played at Mile High Stadium and broke Major League Baseball attendance records. In 1995, fans followed to the new stadium built to bear the state’s celebrated beer. The Coors poured, and the balls flew through the high-elevation air. The only sparks flying these days are from the fireworks shows. But we still love our Rockies and, maybe even more so, summer nights at our ballpark.
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Field 129 Coors Coloradans have loved their Rockies from the start,
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ALL-STARS
Town 131 Tiny “Somewhere over the rainbow, preserved fondly in one’s memory, is a place where time stands still and you can be a child forever.” So reads a history on Tiny Town, which began in 1915 as one artistic, industrious father’s attempt to entertain his daughter. More than 100 miniature structures continue to delight kids and kids at heart here beside a forested creek near Morrison. They tour the town aboard a kid-sized train.
Lake 132 Hanging In 2020, Coloradans anxiously monitored the path of the Grizzly Creek fire burning through Glenwood Canyon — on toward one of the state’s natural marvels. Miraculously, Hanging Lake was spared. But years gave way to floods that sent debris down the barren hillsides, damaging the trail to the waterfall-fed pool high in the canyon. This summer, trail reconstruction was finished. It’s a new trail defined by damage-resistant stone steps.
Juan Soda Co. 133 San Tucked in the San Juan Mountains beside Colorado’s second-largest natural body of water, Lake City feels like an escape back in time. And San Juan Soda Co. feels even more nostalgic. The old building was a pharmacy in the 1870s, when Lake City was a booming mining town. The business inside today calls itself “one of the few remaining classic soda fountains in the country.” Belly up to the bar for an old-fashioned shake or sundae.
Castle 134 Bishop As the Aspen Acres fire raged this summer in southern Colorado, people near and far feared this legendary roadside attraction would be lost. It could not be, they thought. Not this towering, fantastical structure built by one man — Jim Bishop — going back to 1969. It would not be. The castle would stand, thanks to firefighters who left notes in the guest book. They remarked as visitors have for generations: “Awesome” and “Crazy & amazing!”
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Crème de la crème TEXT BY SETH BOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZACH BARTEL
Humble beginnings grew to legendary status for ski area Before the sun rose over Colorado’s Gore Range on March 19, 1957, two men in an Army surplus Jeep pulled off a logging road “and prepared to climb a mountain that had no name.” Pete Seibert went on to write about he and Earl Eaton breaking trail through deep snow and dense woods and over ridges that would become known by the skiing masses. Those masses would also behold the view atop the mountain to be called Vail Mountain — “the most mind-blowing landscape of all,” Seibert remembered, “a series of bowls stretched to the horizon, a virtually treeless universe of boundless powder, open slopes and open sky.” 74 COLORADO LIVING
“My God,” he remarked to Eaton, “we’ve climbed all the way to heaven.” Skiing heaven, as Vail Resort has become nearly 70 years after that fateful ascent. Seibert and Eaton were, indeed, on a mission to scout a ski area. It would be Colorado’s largest ski area, sprawling 5,317 acres today. Seibert’s book would !ttingly be titled “Triumph of a Dream.” But it’s easy to think that the modern-day resort surpasses his wildest dream and that of Eaton, however lofty the ambitions they took to Vail Mountain that day, familiar as they were with European resorts and this state’s burgeon-
135 Vail Ski Resort
ing industry. Seibert and Eaton had met at Aspen following their military service. Later, in the 1950s, Seibert managed Loveland Basin Ski Area. He continued to follow his passion for the sport despite injury with the 10th Mountain Division, the legendary unit that trained for alpine combat at Camp Hale near Leadville and was essential to World War II victory. Skiing was also in Eaton’s blood; he had ventured all around this quiet valley beyond his family’s ranch. The valley would be transformed after the !rst $5 lift tickets sold on Dec. 15, 1962. Thanks initially to U.S. 6 reaching the valley — followed by the Interstate 70 pass also named for highway engineer Charles Vail — and thanks also to President Gerald Ford’s regular visits and promotion, the ski resort boomed. From Lionshead Village to East Vail and West Vail and all of the
luxury hotels, condos, !ne dining and designer shopping in between, Vail would set an industry standard. It would set standards with high-speed lifts and with terrain, too. China Bowl opened in 1988 to make Vail the largest ski area in North America at the time. At the turn of the century, the resort’s acclaim soared to even greater heights with Blue Sky Basin. By then, Vail was well on its way to being the biggest name in the business. Vail Resorts had acquired Breckenridge and Keystone in neighboring Summit County, among 42 destinations owned worldwide today. Yes, much has changed since those early days of $5 lift tickets. But still today one might escape the lift line and bustling base for solitude, sparkling powder and the big blue sky above, enjoying “a moment of pure bliss,” as Seibert enjoyed all those years ago — something like heaven. COLORADO LIVING 75
Mill 136 Crystal A calendar depicting Colorado’s most classic images
Trail 138 Colorado We’re remembering what one backpacking finisher
is not complete without a photo of Crystal Mill. This is the wooden powerhouse of the 1890s, perched atop rock beside a waterfall that tumbles to a cerulean pool. Likely, that calendar is flipped to fall, when aspen gold surrounds the mill — further showcasing true, colorful Colorado. However peaceful the scene, the journey there is anything but: Beware of the rough, rugged road in from Marble.
Brother’s Bar 137 My When vendors came to collect payment, the story
of the trail told us: “If we had an ambassador for Colorado, I think the Colorado Trail would be a great ambassador. Because it gives you all of Colorado.” Spanning 500-plus miles between Denver and Durango, the Colorado Trail gives us eight mountain ranges, five major river drainages and several national forests, wilderness areas and quaint mountain towns along the way.
139 The Springs Resort
goes, one Karagas brother or the other would say: “Don’t look at me. It’s my brother’s bar.” The history here at the corner of 15th and Platte streets in Denver dates way earlier than those siblings of the 1970s, however — all the way to 1873, making this the city’s longest-running bar. But those brothers are credited with what many know as the best burger around, served on wax paper with tasty toppings.
This lavish setting along the San Juan River in Pagosa Springs is home to the deepest hot spring known on Earth. The Mother Spring feeds 52 pools spread across a terrace overlooking the town. Half those pools opened in 2025 as part of an expansion that also delivered major upgrades to lodging, dining and the spa. Indeed, The Springs Resort continues to grow its reputation as a top spot for day soaking and staying a while longer.
YOUR FRONT-ROW SEAT TO FALL Climb aboard the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad and experience America’s #1 Best Scenic Train Ride at its most colorful. Journey behind an authentic steam locomotive through brilliant aspen groves and remote Rocky Mountain scenery along the Colorado–New Mexico border. Peak fall departures often sell out — reserve your seat today.
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Geologic Area 140 Wheeler Deep in the La Garita Mountains lies this dreamscape of clustered pinnacles and spires. In 1907, a survey further detailed “domes, castles and cathedrals, mosques and temples … arrayed in a confusing panorama of form and color.” The following year, President Theodore Roosevelt was inspired to declare Colorado’s first national monument. The designation was removed as the rugged area refused to be tamed by a road.
Broadmoor Seven Falls 141 The “The Grandest Mile of Scenery in Colorado” is said to be the seven waterfalls tumbling down a box canyon in Colorado Springs. Welcome to Seven Falls, where The Broadmoor continues a 143-year history of selling tickets to tourists. They marvel at more than the cascades, viewed from a staircase ascending 224 steps. The surrounding rock formations have names such as Eagle’s Cliff, Half Dome and Alligator’s Head.
Mint Steakhouse 142 The The dated building seems out of place between a modern food hall and hotel in Silverthorne. And, indeed, the building is out of place — squeezed between new development but far removed from it. Beginning in 1862 as a saloon for miners in the village of Kokomo, the structure miraculously survived three moves en route to Blue River Parkway. Now people grill their own steaks here and wish walls could talk.
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Hot Springs Resort 143 Glenwood Glenwood Springs garnered international fame on July 4, 1888. That’s when the Grand Pool opened, proclaimed as the world’s largest hot springs pool. Resort operators have been thinking smaller in recent years with the more intimate pools of Yampah Mineral Baths. On the other side of the Grand Pool is Sopris Splash Zone, a fun area highlighted by a winding tube ride. In other words: There’s something for everyone.
Amphitheatre 144 Mishawaka In 1916, a musician named Walter S. Thompson was tootling through Poudre Canyon on his motorcycle when the muse hit. He stopped along the banks of the Poudre River, began homesteading the property and built the Mishawaka Dance Hall he’d always coveted. With the slogan “Classic Eats, River Beats,” the outdoor space these days hosts concerts for 1,000 guests in Bellvue, a halfhour drive northwest of Fort Collins.
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145 Denver Art Museum
Don’t even try to visit all of the ever-changing exhibits at this arts complex in a single day — it would be an exhausting blur. Founded in 1893 as the Denver Artists’ Club, the museum is now one of the largest between Chicago and the West Coast, with more than 80,000 works in 13 collections. Current exhibits include the Indigenous Arts of North America collection, the Arts of Asia galleries and “Conversation Pieces: Stories from the Fashion Archives.”
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James Florio, courtesy of Denver Art Museum
Vista (for sandhill cranes) 146 Monte Colorado’s most majestic visitors? These big-winged, long-legged birds that stop in the San Luis Valley during their spring migration, gracing us with their ancient dances and songs as well as their group flights backdropped by the Sangre de Cristo peaks. They arrive in mid-February and stay through mid-March before flying north. Monte Vista Crane Festival marks the occasion in March with art and photography workshops, seminars and expert-led tours.
Caverns Adventure Park 147 Glenwood A mountaintop theme park? Only in Colorado and only in Glenwood Springs — said to be the only one of its kind in America. Good luck finding a roller coaster with a better view. The Cliffhanger is far from the only attraction. There’s an alpine coaster, a thrilling drop from Crystal Tower and the even more thrilling Giant Canyon Swing. But Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park all started with the caverns. The Fairy Cave and King’s Row tours are a must.
Box Arts Festival 148 Green Every summer, the festival takes over the tiny town of Green Mountain Falls, filling it with more than two weeks of concerts and dance performances by popular musicians and companies, installations by world-renowned artists and more. Past featured artists include Ballet Hispanico, Temple Grandin, Patrick Shearn, American Ballet Theatre and the opening of a permanent Skyspace by James Turrell. Many events are free, and all are affordable.
Bonita 149 Casa Casa Bonita means “beautiful home,” which is what it has been for Colorado families since the 1970s. They have not exactly gone for the Mexican food — never mind that part of the reputation — but rather for the atmosphere inside the house that looks more like a pink palace here in Lakewood. They go for the divers made famous by “South Park,” whose creators bought the place out of bankruptcy in 2021. If you haven’t heard, the food has improved.
Experience Historic Dining!
Welcome to The Mint Steakhouse! Our home dates back to 1862, when it first opened as a miners’ saloon in Summit County. Today, the space still carries the character and charm of its historic roots while welcoming guests for memorable stays.
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150 Renaissance Festival
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RIPE FOR Veteran performer squeezes most out of his role in Vegetable Justice TEXT BY SETH BOSTER
Beside a giant rocking horse and maze, and not far from the jousting arena and unicorn, a crowd gathers to see a man take tomatoes to the face. At least this is the goal for participants of Vegetable Justice: to hurl tomatoes at the face poking through the hole in the wall. This would be sweet, juicy justice for the insults being slung by the man whose arms are also trapped, resembling a medieval pillory !t for the Colorado Renaissance Festival. That’s Brian Strong behind the wall. “Dude,” he says to the next man gripping a tomato like a baseball, “you look like a busted tube of biscuits rolled in cat hair.” The !ring range is only about 40 feet, but it slopes slightly uphill so that the roof of the tomato stand poses an obstacle. The roof is hit more than Strong. “I’m trying to !gure out what it is on the roof that pisses
you off,” he says to one mis!ring contestant. Many more tomatoes bang on the wall and plop on the ground below Strong. But the jokes hit every time. “That’s it, sir! Sidearm around the beer gut!” “Hey girls, we do discounts for cute girls. Know any?” “Hey kid, you think this is weird? Wait until your parents make you reveal your browser history.” Call it weird or hilarious, entertaining or disturbing — Vegetable Justice is a tradition like no other at Colorado Renaissance Festival, the whimsical affair now spanning 50 summers in Larkspur. And for about as long as Vegetable Justice has been around, going back to the 1980s, so too has Strong. A passerby this afternoon, a festival regular, remembers watching him some 30 years ago. “I can’t believe he’s still here,” she remarks. “How can he do this all summer?”
A LAUGH COLORADO LIVING 81
Another question comes to mind: Why does he do this all summer? Strong’s answer centers around the crowd. Look at them, he says: “They’re throwing something at another human being in a perfectly legal context.” It’s fun for him, too. “I get to say stuff that most people can’t say at their job.” One must be fun-loving, not mean, he acknowledges. But he admits to some “catharsis” now and then. “If I get the stereotypical jock-looking guy that I couldn’t stand in high school,” he says with a chuckle, “yeah, I’ve still got that under my skin somewhere.” Consider that high school student from Golden who !rst visited this scene in 1983: an enchanting, forested village occupied by kings and queens, knights and wizards, madrigals and jesters, horses and dragons, and other characters and creatures from a boy’s imagination. Strong had arrived here with friends. “We were the kids that were playing role-playing games, reading fantasy and science !ction and stuff like that,” he says. “So the Renaissance Fair was pretty (darn) exciting.” It appealed to him much more than college, which would have been an option for the teen with immense curiosity and wit. “You know, like most kids in suburban America, you get out of high school and you just spent 18 years institutionalized,” Strong says. “So one thing I had picked up by the time I !nished high school was this idea that you could go off to college, and you might be climbing a ladder to !nd out you’re up against the wrong wall.” Better to see the country, he decided — to travel to ren fairs and get to know talented, like-minded people. “Ren fair culture is a lot of people that don’t necessarily !t into normal, real life,” he says. “So you’re gonna be talking with some very interesting people and learning some very interesting things.” He learned about Joseph Campbell, who studied myths, epics and religious narratives and categorized them all under the “Hero’s Journey.” Campbell is known for an-
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other phrase: “Follow your bliss.” Strong would follow his bliss to Hawaii, where he lives and works as an artist except in the summer. Also, along the way, he gained another deep-thinking idol: Alan Watts. “I love when he said, ‘I try to be sincere, but never serious,’” Strong says. “I like to borrow that and use it here.” Here, meaning Vegetable Justice. Here, where Campbell’s hero has been relegated to the pillory. Here, where Watts’ theory on the illusion of ego applies in the mind of the man ducking tomatoes on target (goggles now protect Strong’s eyes from damage he once endured). Why does he do this all summer? “I’ve thought about it,” he says, “and the reason is because I really enjoy the opportunity to use humor to transform something like criticism and harshness into something that is fun and that actually brings joy. And in the same process, to be able to have the opportunity to reduce the ego.” Tomato throwers are asked to heed the posted notice: “This is an insult game. DO NOT PLAY if you are easily offended.” A security guard keeps watch for those who are. But a greater threat than an offended, testosterone-fueled tomato thrower is one’s own ego, Strong says. He estimates there might be 20 other performers like him around the country. He’s not aware of anyone who’s done it longer. “I’ve seen quite a few guys burn out,” he says. “Sometimes, like you see in other industries, they spill down the staircase of addiction. They can’t handle whatever it is.” It might be “the intensity of the performance,” he says. “There’s a sense of self-consciousness. ‘Am I gonna do a good show? Am I gonna freeze up?’” One must be able to let go, he says. To have fun. This afternoon’s tomato throwers are having fun, but it’s hard to tell with the next kid. Strong jokes about the boy’s blue hair before easing up. “It’s just weird, that’s all,” he says with a wide grin. “Weird is not bad.”
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