HUB Style #04-2026 UK by MagNet

cover story

Schneiders

From loden to linen

topic

Specialty beachwear

TV shows are in style better than the movies

100 perspectives: the final figures Preview SS 27

brand

Orlebar Brown Vilebrequin Kampos

MC2 Saint Barth Gassa d’Amante Bell Surf

THE VALUE OF TIME

In an industry accustomed to measuring everything in terms of seasons, drops, quarterly performance, and constant growth, talking about time might seem almost provocative. Yet time is precisely the common thread running through many of the themes in this issue of HUB Style. We find it in the cover story dedicated to Schneiders, a brand celebrating 80 years of history without chasing nostalgia or revolution at all costs. The symbolic transition “From Loden to Linen” tells a story that goes beyond a collection: the ability to evolve while keeping one’s identity intact. A quality not so common in a market that is often lured by the pursuit of immediate results.

We see this trend reflected in beachwear as well, the focus of our special feature. This segment reached a global value of over $24 billion in 2026 and could exceed $41 billion by 2035, growing at a rate of more than 6% annually. These are significant figures, but above all, they signal a cultural shift: swimwear is no longer a seasonal product, but rather an integral part of a new lifestyle narrative that, in a sense, lasts all year round, combining travel, leisure, design, and product quality.

The same concept emerges from the fifth edition of "100 Points of View." The 100 boutiques involved in our survey paint a picture of a market that is certainly complex, but far from stagnant. In a context characterized by more selective consumers and increasingly aggressive promotional pressure, value continues to be built through expertise, relationships, service, and credibility elements that take time to cultivate and consolidate. Therefore, they are difficult to replace with a short-term commercial strategy.

Of course, there are challenges. Data from Fashion Bank reveals an increasingly precarious financial situation for the multi-brand channel, with average creditworthiness on the decline and payment terms exceeding 100 days. This picture calls for greater attention and makes the need to build solid, sustainable relationships throughout the supply chain even more evident. Adding to the complexity is an international landscape that continues to be marked by geopolitical instability, trade tensions, and economic volatility. In such a context, the ability to predict the future is inevitably reduced. But the importance of certain fundamentals increases: identity, product quality, reliability, and strategic vision.

It is no coincidence that Italian luxury in particular is demonstrating a remarkable ability to adapt. Although operating within the same global landscape as major international groups, many Italian companies continue to stand out for their swift decision-making, consistency, and ability to execute. Not because they move faster than others, but because they often have a clearer sense of their own direction. Perhaps this is precisely the reflection that accompanies the opening of a new season of trade shows, Fashion Weeks, and international events. In a historical moment when everything seems to be accelerating, the true competitive advantage may not be speed, but simply the ability to build something that is meant to last.

BENEDETTO SIRONI

Publisher: MagNet S.r.l. SB Editor-in-Chief: ANGELO FRIGERIO Managing Editor: BENEDETTO SIRONI

Project Manager: CRISTIANO ZANNI Editors: VALERIA ONETO, SARA FUMAGALLO, MICAELA PANZINI, ALESSANDRO MARRA

Art Director: RICCARDO RECCAGNI Contributors: MARCO RIZZI ANGELO RUGGERI, SIMONE COMI

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DENIM AS A MANIFESTO

AFRO Fashion Association and Levi’s are launching “Voices of Denim,” an annual platform featuring 30 BIPOC creatives from the fields of fashion, photography, film, styling, sound, and the visual arts. Curated by Jordan Anderson with mentorship from Michelle Francine Ngonmo and leading figures including Cara Fenu and Paul Dillinger, the project explores denim as a language of culture and identity and culminates at Milan Fashion Week 2026 with an exhibition at the Casa degli Artisti starting September 23.

CRAFT MEETS VISION

Cuoio di Toscana has launched a new international collaboration with Paul Andrew, one of the most influential names in contemporary luxury footwear design. The limited-edition project debuts at Pitti Uomo 110 with an exclusive event on June 16 at the St. Regis in Florence. A meeting of manufacturing heritage and creative vision that celebrates the excellence of Tuscan sole leather through craftsmanship, innovation, and the culture of Made in Italy.

NO RULES FOR LOVE

Diesel and Tinder present “For Successful Loving,” a creative collaboration for Pride 2026 that combines fashion and connection in a capsule collection and campaign dedicated to freedom of expression, intimacy, and LGBTQIA+ inclusivity. The project reinterprets Diesel’s iconic “For Successful Living” manifesto through the lens of Tinder, celebrating fluid, authentic, and definition-free love. The collection made its global debut in late May.

SEASE LAUNCHES THE BELMOND RACQUET CLUB

SEASE and Belmond have announced a collaboration that takes tennis beyond the court. The brand founded by Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana is launching the Belmond Racquet Club Tennis Kit, a capsule collection that combines style, performance, and Mediterranean spirit. The debut was celebrated at the Splendido in Portofino with two days of matches and exclusive events, attended by guests such as Ana Ivanovic and Jack Savoretti. The collection features men’s and women’s looks in linen, hemp, and technical fabrics, available in shades of beige and navy blue. Now available at select Belmond hotels.

ARCHIVE IN PLAY

LOTTO and H&M are launching a new men’s collaboration that reinterprets the sportswear heritage of the Italian brand, founded in 1973. Inspired by soccer culture and its community, the collection draws from the LOTTO archives to create a graphic and modern wardrobe designed for both the field and the street. Jerseys, polo shirts, and urban wear blend sports and lifestyle elements with the logo and iconic jacquard stripes.

WHEN THE HORIZON DISAPPEARS

SUPERDUPER and ESCAPISTA present "Faded in Blue," a limited-edition capsule collection that combines artisanal headwear with travel-inspired lifestyle imagery. The iconic hats of the Florentine brand are reimagined in a blue palette inspired by the Horizon Fade, where sea and sky merge. Felt and raffia, symbolic details, and Made in Italy craftsmanship come together to create a poetic narrative of travel as a state of mind and a journey of self-discovery.

A SUMMER ON HOLD

Amid the rocks of the Tramuntana Mountains and the light of the Mediterranean, a new concept of freedom is born. Autry and Hotel Corazón have created a capsule collection that reinterprets the Sandy sneaker-espadrilles in a barefoot, instinctive, and minimalist style. Three dusty shades sand, antique pink, and brown like the earth and light of Mallorca. A simple gesture: fold down the heel and go.

BETWEEN TRAVEL AND EVERYDAY LIFE

Valstar and The Observer have collaborated on a suede and leather travel jacket that reinterprets the iconic bomber jacket through a lens focused on travel and the daily life of those who are constantly on the go. A project born from a long-standing friendship and developed over the course of more than a year by Luigi Fila, creative director of Valstar, and Robert Spangle, reporter and founder of The Observer. Clean lines, lightweight construction, and functional details accompany every moment of the day.

LIGHT ON THE RIVIERA

Brioni’s 2026 Riviera capsule collection draws inspiration from the essence of the Mediterranean, where time slows down and wardrobes become lighter. The house reinterprets its tailoring for summer, transforming it into a softer, more effortless aesthetic. Ultra-lightweight linen, silk, and cashmere create relaxed silhouettes, immersed in a palette of sandy, granite white, and dusty pink hues. Unstructured jackets, airy knits, and unlined shirt jackets move with ease, embodying a sense of everyday sophistication.

A PARTNERSHIP DEDICATED TO WELLNESS

The Swiss sportswear brand On and the renowned Californiabased organic chain Erewhon have announced a multi-year partnership. The collaboration brings together product, community, and culture through a series of initiatives ranging from running and nutrition to events dedicated to the Los Angeles wellness community. Key pieces include the Cloudsurfer Max sneakers in black and white, accompanied by a selection of performance apparel consisting of: Run T-shirt, Performance 2-in-1 Shorts, Performance Bra, Performance Tights, Club Premium T-shirt, and Club Premium Hoodie.

BETWEEN VINTAGE AND THE FUTURE

Onitsuka Tiger presents Rotemit, a sneaker inspired by 1980s volleyball shoes and reimagined with a contemporary twist. The design plays on the contrast between materials and textures: matte fabric and suede come together in a dynamic construction. A slightly crinkled finish adds a vintage touch, balancing technical aesthetics with retro sensibility. Available in six colorways, it alternates between understated palettes and more vibrant accents, each with its own visual identity. The wraparound rubber outsole, segmented and sculpted in volume, defines the shape with a bold graphic line.

TENSIONED SURFACES

Consinee presents "Suspended Grounds," the second chapter in its creative dialogue with Sara Sozzani Maino and Galib Gassanoff. In the new Cavedio space at the Fortezza, knitwear transforms into a narrative surface where fabric becomes language. Inspired by carpets as suspended landscapes, garments in cashmere, silk, and wool are layered into irregular textures and sculptural volumes. Technical yarns and 3D techniques construct a wearable, spatial installation, balancing control and spontaneity. A place where the material is not merely worn but observed and traversed.

GOLDEN GOOSE OPENS “FRUTTERIA GOLDEN” IN NAPLES

Golden Goose arrives in Naples and transforms Via dei Mille into a world inspired by Italian fruit markets. Introducing “Frutteria Golden,” an immersive space where wooden crates, seasonal colors, and vintage details create an authentic atmosphere. At its heart, co-creation becomes an experience: with the Dream Makers, each piece takes shape through customization and design. The store is also about sharing, with creative workshops and moments of togetherness. A project that celebrates Naples and its energy, blending fashion, culture, and exploration of the local area.

BACK TO THE ROOTS: C.P. COMPANY

TORNA A BOLOGNA

C.P. Company returns to its roots with its new flagship store in Bologna, located at Via Castiglione 5/e, designed by Andrea Caputo Studio. The space interprets the brand’s design language through a minimalist environment that engages with the urban context and Bologna’s characteristic brick porticoes. Inside, a selection of iconic archive pieces is displayed on the walls. The project marks the launch of a new retail concept: a return to its roots that strengthens the bond between the brand, the city, and its cultural and sporting history.

BIRKENSTOCK MAKES ITS MARK IN BOLOGNA

Following last year’s opening in Milan, BIRKENSTOCK continues its growth in Italy by choosing the capital of Emilia-Romagna for a new store. A young and dynamic city that blends creativity with cultural identity. The new store, which opened on May 20, pays homage to the city through the use of terracotta a material characteristic of the region and through references to its iconic porticoes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021. FIRST BRAND-EXCLUSIVE STORE

Gandhara is opening its first store at Contrà Porton del Luzzo 18, in the heart of Vicenza, its hometown. The space reflects the brand’s identity: minimalist, sophisticated, and with nods to 1990s design. For the occasion, Federico Kapnist, the brand’s founder and creative director, presents the new SS 26 collection, featuring menswear, beachwear, and the first women’s line. The collection also pays homage to Vicenza and Palladio, reinterpreted in a beachwear capsule collection with exclusive patterns inspired by the Basilica.

ALO MAKES ITS DEBUT ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA

There’s a new spot to check out on the French Riviera. This summer, ALO is making its debut between Cannes and Saint-Tropez, with new boutiques, ocean-view experiences, and a calendar of wellness events. From the wellness takeover at the Hôtel Martinez to a 72-meter private yacht cruising along the coast, the Californian brand brings its energy to some of the season’s most iconic and glamorous settings.

FROM LODEN TO LINEN

Drawing on archives, textile traditions, and family memories, Giovanni Schneider explores the delicate balance between heritage and evolution, revealing how a historic brand can move forward without losing its soul

by Valeria Oneto

Giovanni Schneider

Eighty years after its founding, Schneiders Salzburg shows no signs of slowing down.

Following the brand’s relaunch and the success of its first winter collection, the spring-summer 2027 collection adds another chapter to its history: a natural evolution that takes the Schneiders universe beyond Loden, towards a new concept of lightness. Giovanni Schneider, who now runs the company alongside his father Marco, tells us all about it. A conversation about the value of patience, the responsibility of carrying on a brand that bears his surname, and the role of outerwear: no longer merely functional, but a key element of personal style.

Ever since you were a boy, people would ask you: “Are you the one from the Loden family?”. How much did this coincidence influence your relationship with Schneiders? It’s a curious story because for a long time we didn’t make coats. For three generations, my family has been involved in sourcing the finest quality fibres. So when someone associated my surname with Schneiders, I would explain that although I worked in textiles, I was doing something completely different. Yet, by a happy coincidence, that story

became my own. I had always wanted to get closer to the finished product because I was fascinated by the creative aspect. In fact, I was looking for a new business challenge, a brand to take over and relaunch, when the rare opportunity arose to acquire Schneiders, a brand with a long tradition, built on the use of natural fabrics, the creation of functional and durable products, and values very close to our own.

What was your priority in relaunching the brand?

We didn’t want to reinvent Schneiders but to protect what had made it special, bringing that back to the forefront. We rediscovered the iconic garments and, above all, the original spirit of a well-made, functional product. Over the years, the company had lost this identity, haphazardly chasing the compulsive demands of a frenzied and inattentive market. The aim was to create something contemporary without losing authenticity.

How important is the fabric in creating a Schneiders collection?

For me, it all starts with the fabric. As my grandfather used to say, it is the element that draws a customer to a garment,

Some images from Schneiders’ spring-summer 2027 collection

to touch it and then try it on. I grew up in the Biella area, surrounded by the animal fibres that dominate the winter world. Our experience has given us great confidence in this journey because it has taught us to recognise quality. This is why the contribution of Francesca Fusi, the designer, was fundamental in the development of the summer collection. Francesca combines the sensitivity of a creative mind with a deep knowledge of tailoring and textiles. She introduced me to the world of fine summer fibres and helped us translate the Schneiders aesthetic into a different season, whilst maintaining the same consistency.

Is this where the ‘From Loden to Linen’ transition comes from?

Exactly. The choice of linen, the king of summer fabrics, was a natural one. The idea wasn’t simply to recreate the Hubertus in linen, but to see if some of our most beloved styles could be adapted for a new season. We worked on the entire family of garments that had defined the winter relaunch: Hubertus, safari jackets, lightweight raincoats, packaway coats, trachten and other iconic styles. We wanted to demonstrate that the strength of these garments does not depend solely on the fabric from which they originated, but on the characteristics of their design.

“THERE IS CURRENTLY A STRONG RESURGENCE OF VINTAGE STYLE AND GARMENTS THAT, UNTIL RECENTLY, WERE CONSIDERED OUTDATED OR UNINSPIRING. AFTER YEARS OF LOUD FASHION, FAST FASHION, AND LOGO-DRIVEN EXCESS, MANY PEOPLE ARE NOW SEEKING AUTHENTICITY, QUALITY,

AND SUBSTANCE” GIOVANNI SCHNEIDER

What role did your father play in this journey?

A fundamental one. My father has a sensibility deeply rooted in tradition and an extraordinary memory for the product. It was he who retrieved many archive garments and reminded us of details that were in danger of being lost. The dialogue between us was invaluable because it helped us understand what was truly essential and what, on the other hand, could be reinterpreted.

How does the summer collection relate to the winter one? With great continuity, almost a natural evolution. The winter collection had reaffirmed Schneiders’ identity. The summer collection demonstrates that the same identity

can be expressed through different materials, weights and contexts without losing credibility. There is far more coherence than might appear at first glance.

The spring-summer 2027 collection brings outerwear back to the centre of the wardrobe. Why?

Today, across all generations, people tend to dress in an increasingly casual manner. Oscar Wilde said: “You can never be too overdressed”. Today it seems almost the opposite: we are in the age of the underdressed. And summer is perhaps the time when this is most evident: jeans, T-shirts, very basic clothing. This is precisely why we have reimagined outerwear not just as a functional item for protection, but as an accessory that instantly adds character and elegance.

Today, many brands are chasing rapid growth. You seem to be taking a different path. Because we believe strongly in patience. Schneiders is a project we want to build over time, without rushing. Growing too quickly often means losing sight of who you are. We prefer to take it one step at a time, working on the product, distribution and the quality of our relationships. The brand bears my surname and this, inevitably, makes me even more careful. We don’t feel the need to rush. Rather, we feel a responsibility to do things properly.

When did you truly realise the value of Schneiders? When I started wearing the garments every day. We all have wardrobes full of clothes, but in the end we always wear the same four or five items. The ones that really work. It happened to me too with the Hubertus and other styles from the collection. They’ve become part of my daily life. That’s when I realised the true value of Schneiders: not when someone told me about it, but when I started living it.

“FRANCESCA

FUSI HAD THE INSIGHT TO TRANSFORM THE COAT INTO A TRUE ACCESSORY, ONE THAT CAN ADD CHARACTER TO A LOOK AND BECOME THE FIRST ITEM YOU REACH FOR IN YOUR CLOSET, NOT THE LAST ONE YOU THROW ON BEFORE HEADING OUT”

GIOVANNI SCHNEIDER

Photos of State Route 27 by Schneiders

BE CONSCIOUS

A story told in a minimalist, contemporary style, where precision, material, and identity come together. Blending aesthetic rigor with urban authenticity, this new vision of menswear looks beyond trends to create garments built to last

by Sara Fumagallo

PSIDE

Subtraction. This is the concept behind PSIDE, Federico Provenza’s brand that blends the precision of Italian craftsmanship with a technical and contemporary approach, creating essential garments where form and function exist in perfect balance. Eliminating the superfluous to make room for what endures over time. Every detail is measured, controlled, and traceable: from the choice of materials to the 5mm Signature Stitch, a distinctive element that translates quality into a silent language. No excess, no intrusive logos, just impeccable construction and aesthetic refinement. OFFSTAGE, the label’s FW 26/27 collection, reflects on the most authentic side of fashion the one that emerges far from the spotlight. A new vision of contemporary menswear, more disciplined, essential, and destined to endure beyond the seasons.

pside.it

Instagram: pside_official

SQUEEZE

Inspired by a Georgian grandmother whose quiet craftsmanship has become a lasting legacy, GOGUTSA weaves together memory, culture, and contemporary style. Founded by Maia Gorgiladze and Mariam Midelashvili, the menswear brand bears the name of the woman who, with discipline and precision, sewed every day without ever having the chance to become a designer. Today, that dedication lives on in minimalist collections built on clean silhouettes, refined details, and a timeless aesthetic. Born in Tokyo, the first project draws inspiration from the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi, celebrating the beauty of imperfection and simplicity. The new collection, presented during the summer 2026 edition of Pitti Uomo, combines stillness and movement, rigor and softness, shaping a wardrobe designed for the contemporary man. Authentic and sophisticated menswear.

gogutsa.com

Instagram: @gogutsaofficial

BEYOND THE COSTUME

An exploration of beachwear within the luxury-premium sector. From Mediterranean aesthetics and material innovation to the rise of resortwear as a language of contemporary lifestyle

by Valeria Oneto

There was a point in recent years when men’s beachwear moved beyond its seasonal roots to become one of the most exciting sectors in contemporary luxury. Today, the swimsuit combines fashion, travel, leisure, and lifestyle into a single item, reflecting the evolution of men’s wardrobes toward more relaxed and versatile styles. The numbers confirm this trajectory. The global swimwear market reached $24.1 billion in 2026, with projected growth to $41.7 billion by 2035 and an average annual increase of over 6% (Global Market Insights, 2026). At the same time, the luxury and premium segment continues to expand, driven by high-end tourism and the growth of resortwear as a lifestyle category (Intel Market Research, 2026). Aesthetically, the shift is clear. Silhouettes are becoming shorter, lines are cleaner, and color palettes are shifting toward more muted Mediterranean tones. Textures take center stage, as do advanced technical fabrics and more refined construction. Orlebar Brown has played a decisive role in this shift, introducing the concept of tailored swim shorts and bringing beachwear closer to an increasingly sartorial approach. Italy occupies a central position in this evolution. Italian beachwear draws on a specific imagery,

1 How would you describe men’s swimwear within your brand today: a seasonal product, an extension of your ready-to-wear line, or a true expression of your creative vision?

2 What have been the most significant changes in recent years in the design of men’s swimwear, in terms of fit, length, materials, and functionality across sports, lifestyle, and luxury segments?

TREVOR HARDY chief marketing officer ORLEBAR BROWN

rooted in Capri, Portofino, Forte dei Marmi, Sardinia, and the Riviera. An aesthetic that blends elegance and naturalness, and which continues to represent one of the most recognizable codes of global luxury. Added to this are solid manufacturing know-how, a strong focus on materials, and a growing sensitivity toward sustainability and construction quality. Pitti Uomo has also clearly picked up on this transformation, establishing resortwear as one of the most significant categories in contemporary menswear. The brands featured in the interviews collected in this in-depth report fit into this landscape. Kampos interprets the eco-luxury side of the sector. Orlebar Brown remains the international benchmark for tailored beachwear. Vilebrequin maintains its iconic identity linked to European beach luxury. Gassa d’Amante crafts a more authentic, nautical Mediterranean narrative. MC2 Saint Barth continues to view beachwear as a global lifestyle universe immediate and instantly recognizable. Meanwhile, BELL SURF blends Australian surf culture with European design. Six distinct visions, a single point of convergence. Contemporary beachwear increasingly navigates the realms of luxury, material innovation, and new aesthetics of the global lifestyle.

3 What share of your total revenue does the men’s swimwear category account for today, and how has it changed over the past three years?

What are the main markets for your men’s beachwear today, and what factors such as beach culture, tourist flows, price positioning, and distribution channels determine their success?

5 To what extent does the brand’s aesthetic heritage influence today’s swimwear collections, and what balance is sought between brand recognition and innovation?

6 What are the current priorities in material selection, considering performance, sustainability, recycling, and textile research? To what extent do these choices affect the cost structure?

the precision of tailoring and the carefree spirit of summer. Many men’s brands treat beachwear as a complementary category; here, however, swimwear represents the very heart of the brand. The design language of our swim shorts still defines everything we create today, while the imagery of vacation continues to guide our content, communication, and customer experience. Even as we’ve evolved toward a more comprehensive ready-to-wear collection, the Bulldog model remains the iconic piece that, in our opinion, every gentleman should have in his wardrobe.

Every brand is born from a specific vision. For Orlebar Brown, it was the vision of creating swim shorts designed for swimming, yet crafted with

The most noticeable change is the freedom with which men today interpret their own beachwear style. There is a growing desire to experiment with different cuts, lengths, colors, and prints, adapting swimwear to the destination and the different times of day. While men’s wardrobes once followed stricter codes, today’s approach is decidedly more fluid: the same man can switch between sleek, impeccable shorts and more relaxed silhouettes or styles with

How is the distribution mix currently divided between wholesale, direct retail, and e-commerce, and what role does seasonality play in sales management?

8 How do you envision the evolution of men’s swimwear over the next five years, in terms of stylistic, functional, and market positioning changes?

a bolder character. However, the pursuit of natural elegance defined by clean lines, refined details, and meticulously crafted finishes remains central.

Today, swimwear accounts for over 25% of our business, compared to 30% five years ago. This balance perfectly reflects the brand’s evolution: on the one hand, we continue to expand the swimwear universe with new styles and interpretations; on the other, we have built an increasingly diverse ready-to-wear collection, designed to accompany the customer throughout their journey, not just during their time at the beach.

Orlebar Brown’s aesthetic identity remains deeply rooted in the fusion of tailoring and a holiday spirit—a balance that has defined the brand since its inception. This aesthetic is reimagined through prints and patterns inspired by both the imagery of travel and the most classic masculine elegance, from ties to gentlemen’s scarves. This visual exploration is complemented by meticulous work on

ROLAND

CEO VILEBREQUIN

Vilebrequin was founded in 1971 in Saint-Tropez with a focus on swimwear, and its entire brand universe still revolves around the art of beach living. Men’s swimwear is therefore the true heart of the brand’s design. Although the collection has expanded to include a complete wardrobe for the beach and beyond, swimwear remains the signature piece, a symbol of freedom and joy.

The line between beachwear and lifestyle has become increasingly blurred: today, men want to be able to go for a swim, step out of the water, slip on a linen shirt, and head out for lunch without changing. That’s why we offer different styles and lengths, along with various materials, such as wool swim trunks with a flawless fit, similar to that of tailored pants. Our design studio is constantly on the lookout for new materials: over 95% of our men’s collection is made from recycled fibers, without compromising on softness, quality, or quick-drying performance.

Men’s swimwear remains the mainstay of our revenue, accounting for approximately 50%. It is a growing segment, driven by highend tourism and the extension of the season. Our customers travel to vacation destinations year-

round, and artistic collaborations further enhance the desirability of our products.

Our main markets remain Southern Europe (France, Italy, Spain, Greece), the United States (particularly Florida and the Hamptons), as well as the Caribbean, the Middle East, and China. Luxury tourism flows define our market geography. Our positioning is high-end, but justified by a clear promise: sustainable swimwear with exclusive prints. In terms of distribution, we prioritize standalone boutiques in the most exclusive beach destinations and a selective presence in luxury department stores worldwide.

Our heritage is rooted in exclusive prints, creativity, elegance, the father-son bond, and the spirit of 1970s Saint-Tropez. At the same time, we are constantly reinventing ourselves, refining every aspect of our swimwear through high-precision printing techniques and limited-edition embroidery. This year we are also introducing a new micro-perforated fabric developed in Japan, which promotes breathability and dries quickly. The Vilebrequin swimsuit remains instantly recognizable, yet firmly rooted in modernity.

6 Today, our priorities remain quality and durability, with a growing commitment to recyclability. We are deeply committed to protecting the oceans: for us, leaving a clean planet behind is a duty, not just a marketing talking point. We carry out initiatives such as recycling plastic waste recovered from fishing nets, which is transformed into yarn for some solid-color swimsuits. We are constantly researching to develop materials resistant to salt, UV rays, and chlorine; this affects our cost structure, because innovating and sourcing these materials is expensive, but the customer recognizes and accepts this value. We also offer a repair service to extend the life of our swimwear, from the inner lining and drawstring to pockets and trims.

Our distribution strategy encompasses single-brand boutiques, which offer an immersive experience of the art of the beach; wholesale (department stores and

luxury hotels), which strengthens the brand’s positioning; and e-commerce, which ensures accessibility anywhere and at any time. Seasonality is becoming increasingly less pronounced, giving way to year-round demand, driven by global tourism flows.

8 The future of swimwear lies in increasing ecoresponsibility and the search for new, highperformance technical materials, while maintaining the unique identity that sets us apart from our competitors.

fabrics, where technical innovation and creative development constantly interact to bring increasingly distinctive garments to life.

Our top priority remains never compromising the quality of the final product. That is why we work closely with our textile partners to develop new yarns, innovative materials, and garments designed to stand the test of time. At the same time, sustainability has become essential, through the use of responsible and recycled fibers and collaboration with companies actively committed to carbon neutrality. This is a path that requires significant investment, but one that reflects the value and high quality of the product offered to the customer.

In the coming years, versatility will drive the evolution of men’s swimwear. Orlebar Brown has built its identity around the idea of a pair of shorts that can accompany men both in and out of the water, offering sophistication that extends far beyond the moment of swimming. Today, the concept of a vacation has changed: time at the beach is now complemented by wellness, sports, outdoor activities, and social gatherings. Consequently, swimwear is also evolving toward a more versatile approach, combining innovative fabrics and functionality with a growing focus on comfort and fit.

HERLORY

ceo & founder KAMPOS

For Kampos, men’s swimwear is the true core of the brand: a staple product that defines us and is recognized year-round. It embodies the values that define us— Mediterranean aesthetics, Italian quality, and sustainability. The brand’s entire vision stems from this.

Among the most significant changes are the refinement of proportions and the development of three ideal lengths, designed to adapt to different needs, body types, and occasions. Every detail has been carefully considered, combining aesthetics and functionality: from lightweight, comfortable, quick-drying materials to practical solutions like the pocket size, designed to prevent your phone from falling out when you sit down.

MASSIMILIANO

co-founder & creative director

MC2 SAINT BARTH

Beachwear remains at the heart of the brand. The goal is to constantly improve not necessarily to be the best, but to continue growing in this direction. Alongside this, there are other important categories, but beachwear remains the brand’s foundation, the cornerstone of its identity, and the area on which future development is most focused.

The most significant change concerns materials: technology now allows for the development of quick-drying swimwear that is increasingly lightweight, durable, high-performance, and made from recycled and recyclable fibers. The main challenge lies precisely in the materials. Fit has also evolved: we’ve moved from slimmer, shorter cuts to more comfortable, relaxed silhouettes with mid-lengths. A premium, lifestyle aesthetic inspired by the heritage of the 1980s reimagined, however, with contemporary technologies, vintage aesthetics, and modern performance.

Men’s swimwear now accounts for about 40% of Kampos’s revenue and is the category most closely associated with the brand. It remains the core of the business, appealing to a broad audience: not only male customers, but also many women who choose it as a gift. In recent years, the category has seen steady growth, thanks to the product’s strong brand recognition and the brand’s international positioning.

The main markets for our men’s beachwear are currently Europe, the United States, and the Middle East—regions that share a strong culture centered on the sea and the resort lifestyle. Growth is driven both by international tourism and by customers who are increasingly focused on quality, design, and sustainability. The brand’s selective distribution and premium positioning also help strengthen its presence in key markets.

The brand’s aesthetic heritage is central to our swimwear collections, reflected in the constant references to the Mediterranean, as well as in the colors and prints inspired by nature. The goal is to maintain strong product recognition while introducing new color palettes, details, and technical solutions that allow us to evolve in a coherent and contemporary way.

Our selection of materials is always based on quality, performance, and sustainability. We use lightweight, recycled fabrics that ensure comfort, durability, and quick-drying properties, without compromising on style. These choices impact our cost structure, but they represent

Men’s swimwear accounts for approximately 26–27% of revenue and has grown significantly in recent years, even within an increasingly diversified product portfolio. It remains one of the brand’s key categories and one of its main strengths. This is where the most experimentation takes place, with the market often ready to embrace these developments: a true creative laboratory.

The product is designed as true “holiday wear.” It’s no coincidence that the company is named “Holiday Wear”: we want to create clothing designed for leisure time, when there’s no dress code and you wear something relaxed. Whether it’s the beach, the mountains, or a weekend getaway, the common thread is time dedicated to oneself. In this context, Saint Barth becomes a symbolic reference point for the holiday imagination. Among our priorities is maintaining a fair price-to-quality ratio, based on trust with the customer: offering a premium product with a contemporary design at a consistent price

The design department’s job is to constantly strike a balance between brand recognition and innovation. It creates iconic, recognizable products—not because of the logo, but because of their style. When a garment is instantly recognizable without the need for a visible brand logo, it means the brand identity is strong; if, on the other hand, the logo is indispensable, the creative DNA risks being diluted.

Sustainability is no longer a distinguishing feature, but a prerequisite. It’s a sort of “license” for clothing manufacturers. It’s no longer a value to be touted, but rather a structural foundation of the industry. The real differences lie in style, performance, taste,

an investment consistent with our brand positioning and the expectations of an increasingly informed consumer.

Today, our distribution mix is primarily focused on retail—which accounts for approximately 86% of our business—and e-commerce. Over the years, however, online sales have grown steadily, rising from 3% to 14% by 2026. The wholesale channel, on the other hand, is the area where we are focusing our efforts most this year, through a select network of hotels and partners aligned with the brand’s positioning.

In the coming years, men’s swimwear will become increasingly versatile, designed not only for the beach but also as part of a summer and resort lifestyle. There will be a growing focus on innovative and sustainable materials, without compromising on lightness and performance. The positioning will be more premium, targeting customers seeking distinctive, durable, and identity-defining products.

and price. Economically speaking, however, it represents a cost that consumers—especially young people—are increasingly willing to accept because it is perceived as consistent and necessary.

We are aiming for a fully omnichannel structure, with a balance between wholesale, retail, and e-commerce. Today, the mix stands at around 40% wholesale, 30% retail, and 30% online, with more dynamic growth in direct channels. The group has 86 stores, 37–38 of which are in Italy. The strategy prioritizes proximity to the customer over store size: it is better to be present and accessible than scattered. Seasonality remains strong, with the summer season accounting for about 70% of the business, although the winter season is growing steadily and contributes to a more continuous relationship with the customer.

The goal is for the products to remain timeless: technologically advanced and stylistically enduring. Essential beachwear, featuring looser fits and longer lengths, inspired by surf and pre-surf styles. The swimsuit becomes versatile, perfect for after the beach, for an aperitif, but also for everyday urban life.

ALESSANDRO VERGANO

FERRARI

ANDREA RAPETTI co-founder GASSA D’AMANTE

For Gassa d’Amante, the swimsuit is much more than a seasonal item: it is the starting point for the brand’s creative vision and the piece that best expresses its identity. It is conceived as a lifestyle staple, designed to accompany you throughout the summer day from the beach to the boardwalk, from lunch to happy hour. And to blend naturally with linen shirts, knit polo shirts, and T-shirts in the contemporary summer wardrobe.

Since the brand’s inception, product development has focused on fit and proportions, with the goal of achieving an increasingly balanced and versatile silhouette. The length has also been refined over time to strike a balance between comfort, elegance, and contemporary style. In terms of materials, the choice has remained consistent: high-quality recycled polyester, progressively improved in terms of lightness and performance. Today, the swimsuit is no longer just technical or athletic, but a versatile and elegant lifestyle garment.

PAOLO MUCCIFORA &

LUCIA

BLONDI creative directors BELL SURF

For BELL, swimwear is not just a product category, but one of the brand’s core values. It stems from experience in surfing and the design of beachwear, and the boardshort embodies the perfect blend of performance, functionality, and contemporary aesthetics. It is a garment designed to accompany men from the beach to the city.

In recent years, consumers have developed a strong demand for versatility. It is against this backdrop that the contemporary boardshort has made a comeback, with the brand’s 17-inch style becoming its hallmark: a balanced length that ensures comfort, freedom of movement, and elegance. At the same time, materials have evolved toward lighter, more stretchy, and higher-performance solutions, blending sports, lifestyle, and a premium aesthetic.

Swimwear remains the core of the business, accounting for over 80% of revenue. Alongside this, the brand has expanded its offering with accessories and lifestyle items such as polo shirts and T-shirts, but swimwear remains its signature product. Its growth has mirrored the company’s evolution, contributing to the consolidation of its presence both in Italy and in major European markets.

Italy is the main market, followed by France, which is becoming increasingly strategic for the brand. Excellent results are also coming in from Greece, Benelux, Portugal, Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. This success is based on a combination of factors: the Mediterranean culture of the sea, an accessible yet premium positioning, selective distribution, and an authentically Italian aesthetic that is recognized even abroad.

Aesthetic identity is one of the brand’s core assets. The approach does not follow passing trends, but aims to build a recognizable and enduring visual language. Innovation is constant, yet always consistent with the brand’s values. The goal is to create products that are recognizable for their style, proportions, and taste even before their logo, through clean lines, timeless elegance, and a distinctive color palette.

Sustainability has been a cornerstone of the project from the very beginning, with the early adoption of recycled polyester fabrics. The selection of materials prioritizes quality, durability, comfort, and environmental responsibility, even in the face of an inevitable impact on costs. In addition, the brand develops innovative solutions such as natural dyes derived from citrus fruits and vegetables, produced in Italy using specialized processes.

The wholesale channel remains the primary one and continues to grow, supported by a rapidly expanding e-com-

Swimwear accounts for approximately 35% of sales. Although BELL is a relatively young brand in the fashion industry, it draws on over 35 years of experience in surfing and the development of technical products for the water. The boardshort remains one of the main ways in which the brand’s identity is expressed.

The main markets are Italy, France, Spain, and Portugal, along with countries with a strong maritime culture such as the United States and Australia. Growth is driven by the convergence of maritime culture, international tourism, and a growing focus on an active and authentic lifestyle.

The brand’s aesthetic heritage is central to every collection. The approach does not follow trends but aims to create products built to last. Evolution comes through materials, details, and technical innovation, rather than by following the fast-paced cycle of fashion.

Performance remains the starting point: comfort, freedom of movement, quick-drying properties, and durability. Alongside this, the brand invests in textile research and initiatives such as Water Zero, aimed at reducing its environmental impact. Sustainability is understood primarily in terms of product quality and longevity.

Wholesale accounts for approximately 75% of the business, alongside e-commerce and direct retail.

merce presence that is broadening the company’s international reach. 2026 also marks the company’s entry into direct retail with its first flagship stores. Seasonality remains a significant factor, with the March–September period accounting for the majority of sales, although the expansion of product categories is making the business increasingly year-round.

The future of men’s swimwear is moving toward a balance of elegance, comfort, and versatility. There is growing demand for garments that can adapt to different settings, with a strong focus on sustainability, quality, and brand identity. The goal is to develop a contemporary collection that captures the aesthetic of Italian beach resorts, strengthening the brand’s positioning in the accessible premium segment of international beachwear.

Seasonality remains a significant factor, although demand is growing for versatile products suitable for yearround use in travel and leisure.

Swimwear is set to evolve into an increasingly hybrid blend of performance and lifestyle. We’ll see more advanced fabrics, lighter constructions, and a greater focus on durability. For BELL, the future isn’t about chasing trends, but about developing more versatile and authentic products while maintaining a strong connection to the sea.

THE RIGHT MOMENT

At number 176, beneath the arcades of the historic "Piazza Reale dei Savoia," there is a place where Turin tradition and contemporary vision come together in harmony. This is the story of elegance at Y Piazza San Carlo

by Sara Fumagallo

Located in the heart of Turin, Y Piazza San Carlo is now one of the most exciting names in Italian menswear. Born from a desire to carry on the legacy of a historic Turin address and reinterpret it in a contemporary way, the project combines sartorial culture, innovation, and a distinct vision of masculine elegance. We spoke with founder Piero Sacchi about it.

Tell us the story of Y Piazza San Carlo.

In 2019, news broke that left Turin stunned: Olympic, a historic institution for generations of Turin families, was closing its doors. For me, it was one of those once-in-a-lifetime opportunities. Although I already owned other high-end boutiques, I had realized that the smaller towns where they were located were suffering deeply from the market downturn. After brief negotiations with the previous owners, which fell through for various reasons, I still managed to secure the lease for the space. At that point, it was clear that everything had to be new, starting with the name. Thanks to the support of a creative professional whom I still thank today “Y” was born. I immediately saw in it a symbolic reference to “Olympic”: that central Y, almost nestled at the heart of the name, seemed to me the perfect bridge between past and future. For trademarkability reasons, we then added “Piazza San Carlo,” a choice that not only highlights the boutique’s prestigious location but also pays homage to another historic Turin store that had recently closed.

What vision of masculine elegance do you want to convey today in Turin?

Today we can say it without any hesitation: people love our project and they love it a lot. We didn’t limit ourselves to offering classic, refined elegance; instead, we sought to embrace more contemporary styles, introducing new silhouettes and blending different design elements with balance. After all, the two souls of our name coexist in just this way: on one hand, sartorial tradition; on the other, a modern sensibility capable of engaging with the present.

Who is the boutique’s typical customer? Does it also attract international visitors?

Our customer base spans a wide range of age groups, and no one feels left out by the selection we offer. Many describe a visit to our store as an inspiring experience. Today, it’s no longer so common to find wellorganized multi-brand boutiques in major cities, and our particularly extensive and diverse selection makes a positive impression on those who walk in. International customers, in particular, are often surprised: many foreigners tell us they plan new trips to Piedmont specifically with the intention of returning to us. This makes us very proud. At first, I feared that an image that was too classic might be perceived as “oldfashioned.” That’s why we worked hard to blend innovation with the codes that represent timeless elegance. The result is a well-balanced, cross-cutting approach.

Does it offer customized services or client-focused experiences?

We quietly nurture a shared ambition: to help revive an appreciation for good taste, which has been somewhat sidelined in recent years by certain trends. We believe that the customer deserves attention, a story, and an understanding of the product’s heritage. That is why we are not big fans of department stores or e-commerce as the sole shopping experience. Every garment, even the most commercial one, must be told, contextualized, and enhanced through styling and the way it is interpreted. Only then can it truly become personal and avoid the ordinary. Completing this journey is our strong sartorial expertise, expressed through our made-to-measure service, which is increasingly in demand today. From shirts to suits to shoes, we offer a complete experience built around the individual.

If you had to describe Y Piazza San Carlo in a few words, which ones would you choose?

I’d say we’re deeply Savoyard, and we’re proud of it. We don’t believe in wearing T-shirts to business meetings; we prefer a double-breasted suit worn with natural ease and confidence. If I had to sum us up in one sentence, I’d say we focus on the right things, in the right place.

OVERVIEW

Boutique name: Y Piazza San Carlo

Owner: Piero Sacchi

Address: Piazza San Carlo, 176 Turin (10121)

Square meters: 700

Website: ypiazzasancarlo.it

Top-selling brands: Alberto Fasciani, Alden, Alessandro Gherardi, Autry, Boglioli, Briglia 1949, Caruso, Crockett & Jones, Department 5, Dondup, Doucal’s, Filippo De Laurentiis, Incotex, John Lobb, Kired, Kiton, Malo, Manifattura Ceccarelli, Montecore, Moorer, Morph Parfum, Piacenza 1733, Sonrisa, Tagliatore, Tricker’s, Valsport, Zanone

Piero Sacchi, owner

The interior and exterior of the Y boutique on Piazza San Carlo

Marcus Klaar, CEO & Co-Owner Måns Nelson, co-owner

AN EXPERIENTIAL LUXURY

Founded in Stockholm in 1949, Lund & Lund continues to evolve the concept of men’s retail by combining heritage, made-to-measure, and a contemporary approach to shopping. Blending physical and digital boutiques

by Cristiano Zanni

At a time when the fashion retail industry is constantly redefining its balance between digital and in-store experiences, Lund & Lund stands as an example of continuity and transformation. Founded in Stockholm in 1949, the Swedish boutique has evolved over more than 70 years while keeping its identity intact: a tailored approach, a curated selection, and a strong relationship with the customer. Today, the store on Sturegatan in Stockholm is a true destination for an international clientele that alternates between online shopping and in-store visits, seeking authenticity, service, and quality. Blending made-to-measure, heritage, and contemporary styles, Lund & Lund also reflects how the way men shop for fashion has changed becoming more frequent, diverse, and tied to personal pleasure. We spoke with Marcus Klaar, CEO & co-owner, and Måns Nelson, co-owner.

Could you briefly tell us your story? When and where did it all begin?

Lund & Lund was founded in 1949 by Hans and Jesper Lund, offering a bespoke tailoring service at Sturegatan 10 in Stockholm. The current location at Sturegatan 12 opened in 1963 and has since offered a wide selection of ready-to-wear and made-to-measure garments. Today, we strive to offer an eclectic mix of heritage, contemporary, and custom-made styles.

How important is the online channel compared to the physical store?

Online shopping and made-to-measure clothing are growing rapidly, but physical stores remain extremely important perhaps even more so today than ever before because even online customers want to experience the atmosphere of a retail store. If given the chance, the store becomes a true “destination” worth visiting.

What trends are you seeing in fashion and in your customers’ purchasing behavior? Has anything changed in recent years?

Yes, things have changed quickly. Trends come and go. Even men today enjoy shopping more frequently, and we have many customers who shop both in-store and online several times a month. They no longer buy only when they need something, but enjoy treating themselves to new items more regularly, whether it’s a pair of sneakers or a dress.

Do you offer services designed to build customer loyalty?

We have always strived to build long-term relationships with our customers, and I sincerely believe that this is one of the main reasons we are still here today. Currently, our made-to-measure service is a clear example of the fact that we don’t simply aim to close a sale, but rather guide and assist the customer in finding the most suitable garments.

What are the store’s next steps or future plans?

We are constantly updating our website, and the selection in our physical store changes regularly to keep our customers happy and offer them new ideas, so they can find something they like and look forward to coming back whether to our online store or our physical location.

OVERVIEW

Store name: Lund & Lund

Starters: Marcus Klaar and Måns Nelson

Address: Sturegatan 12, 114 36 Stockholm Square meters: 75 Website: lundochlund.com

Top brands: Montecore, 100 Hands, Boglioli, Caruso, Doriani, Drake’s, Felisi, Jacob Cohen, Luigi Borrelli, Lund & Lund, Paraboot, Ring Jacket, Trudon

The interior of the historic Lund & Lund store

PRADA AND MONCLER ARE LEADING THE WAY IN ITALY, WHILE PARIS IS PLAYING CATCH-UP

Amid global slowdowns, wars, and financial turmoil, French luxury giants are seeking to rebound, while Italian groups are consolidating their leadership, profit margins, and desirability

by Angelo Ruggeri

French luxury is trying to get back on its feet. Italian luxury, on the other hand, seems to have already found its stride. The figures for the first quarter of 2026 paint an increasingly interesting picture of the global high-end sector: on one hand, the major French conglomerates are working to defend margins and relaunch historic brands in a complicated geopolitical context; on the other, Italian fashion houses, while not immune to international turbulence, continue to demonstrate dynamism, execution capabilities, and surprising resilience.

LVMH Holds Steady, but It’s No Longer Enough

LVMH remains the undisputed giant of the sector with €19.1 billion in revenue for the quarter, but the 6% decline at current exchange rates and organic growth limited to 1% confirm that the perfect machine built by Bernard Arnault is going through a more complex phase. The Middle East is weighing heavily, to say the least: CFO Cécile Cabanis spoke openly of sales slumps ranging from 30% to 70% in stores across the region during the missile and drone exchanges. Yet, in luxury, resilience matters almost as much as growth. And it is precisely this that LVMH continues to leverage. Louis Vuitton and Dior remain the group’s pillars, with the debut of the first products designed by Jonathan Anderson already generating

excitement, especially in China. Loro Piana continues to post double-digit growth, Tiffany and Bulgari shine in jewelry, while watches remain the weak spot. The problem, if anything, is that today’s market demands much more than mere stability. It demands acceleration.

Prada,

the Power of Discipline

And this is where Italy really begins to make a difference. Because while the French speak of “gradual improvement,” Prada and Moncler are delivering concrete results. The group led by Andrea Guerra closed the quarter with revenue up 6% to 1.4 billion euros, proving once again that it knows how to manage the transition from explosive growth to maturity without losing its appeal. Miu Miu is slowing down, it’s true, but after quarters of almost unrepeatable growth. Prada is back in the black, supported by full-price sales and a recovery in Asia. And above all, the group continues to convey a fundamental message: control. Control of the product, distribution, and identity. An element that today is worth almost more than marketing. Even Versace, still in the midst of its integration into the group, is managed without haste and without financial hysteria. A choice that goes against the grain of the luxury sector’s traditional obsession with immediate performance.

Prada's "Days of Summer 2026" advertising campaign

Moncler and luxury as a cultural language

Moncler’s performance is even more significant. In the quarter, Remo Ruffini’s group grew by 6%, beating analysts’ expectations and, above all, clearly distinguishing itself from its French competitors. Moncler and Stone Island continue to speak to global communities in a cultural language even before a commercial one. And that is no small detail. In contemporary luxury, a brand’s strength is no longer measured solely by its ability to sell handbags or down jackets, but by its symbolic relevance. Moncler understood this before many others. And in fact, while tourist flows are slowing and the Middle East is curbing consumption, the group continues to grow in Asia thanks to demand from China and Korea.

Kering and the Gucci Puzzle

Kering, on the other hand, remains in limbo. The slow recovery is real, but Gucci continues to weigh heavily. The group has launched a major reorganization, redefined its internal divisions, and is betting heavily on jewelry and eyewear. There is no shortage of encouraging signs: Boucheron is soaring, Pomellato is growing, and Balenciaga is regaining ground. But the Gucci issue remains central. The debut of the new collections designed by Demna seems to have generated a positive response, especially in the United States, but in China the recovery still appears fragile. And in today’s global luxury market, China is no longer just a market: it is the emotional barometer of the entire sector.

The New Balance of Global Luxury

The sense, looking at these quarters, is that French luxury is slowly emerging from the defensive phase that began in 2024. But Italy, in the meantime, has shifted gears. Not only because it is growing more or losing less, but because it seems to have found a more modern balance between creativity, industrial discipline, and brand management. The French remain extremely powerful, of course. They have scale, global distribution, and unparalleled financial resources. But today, Italian luxury appears more agile, more contemporary, and above all, closer to new international consumers. Consumers who seek exclusivity, yes, but also authenticity, culture, and identity. And it is precisely here that “Made in Italy” continues to hold a competitive advantage that is difficult to replicate. Italian fashion houses now seem better able to interpret a less flashy and more sophisticated form of luxury, where craftsmanship, product quality, and consistency matter more than the logo effect. This direction appeals especially to younger consumers and high-spending Asian clients, who are increasingly attuned to the cultural dimension of brands. This does not mean that French dominance is over. On the contrary: LVMH and Kering remain giants with unmatched financial and distributional power. But 2026 marks a significant shift in perception. For the first time in years, it is no longer a given that innovation and creative energy come solely from Paris. And this is perhaps the real difference in 2026: the French are still working to return to center stage. The Italians, on the other hand, are already there.

On the left, Jacob Elordi in a head-to-toe Bottega Veneta look. On the right, Anne Hathaway in a head-to-toe custom-made Louis Vuitton look

DO WE NEED NEW RULES?

In Italy, multi-brand stores are a key distribution channel, but behind their widespread presence lies an increasingly fragile picture. Here are the figures compiled by the Fashion Bank Observatory

Edited by the Editorial Staff

The financial strength of multi-brand retailers is gradually weakening. In May 2026, the average solvency of companies operating in the channel stood at 66.35%, down from 69.88% in June 2025 and 67.78% in December. The data comes from ongoing monitoring of an extensive panel, which in the report examines approximately 40,000 Italian retail outlets across clothing, footwear, accessories, children’s goods, and sports, in the Exclusive High, Best, Premium, and Good segments. This sample captures the most representative part of the market, both in terms of volume and commercial significance. The issue is not limited to solvency. Payment terms also indicate growing pressure on the supply chain. In fashion wholesale, average payment terms exceed 100 days: 105.62 in the Northwest, 103.84 in the Northeast, 111.24 in Central Italy, and 121.66 in the South and Islands. In practice, a growing share of operators is working with trade receivables that extend well beyond contractual terms, turning the credit granted by brands into a latent risk. The regional breakdown confirms the channel’s numerical strength, but also its unevenness. Lombardy accounts for 12% of the retail outlets in the sample and 18% of purchases, followed by Campania, Lazio, Puglia, Sicily, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and Veneto. The total analyzed exceeds 39,600 retail outlets, representing over 15 billion euros in estimated purchases and an average of approximately 398,000 euros per outlet. The structure of the businesses further complicates the picture. Nearly 65% of the market is still organized as non-corporate legal entities, with a strong presence of sole proprietorships and partnerships. This limits the availability of public economic and financial data and makes an assessment based solely on Chamber of Commerce information less effective. The age of the stores also plays a role: historical data show spikes in defaults in the third year of operation and after 35 years—two very different but equally critical phases. For brands and suppliers, therefore, selling to multi-brand retailers no longer means merely selecting customers consistent with their commercial positioning, but also assessing financial reliability in advance, before confirming orders or granting new credit terms.

TV SHOWS ARE BETTER THAN MOVIES

From Euphoria 3 to TikTok, Gen Z’s new fashion aesthetic is taking shape on the small screen. And luxury brands have caught on to this trend

by Angelo Ruggeri

For years, the movies set the standard when it came to style. Not anymore. What truly influences the wardrobes of the younger generations are TV series, consumed compulsively, shared on social media, and turned into viral content within hours. More than just entertainment, they’ve become massive aesthetic platforms. And none demonstrate this better than Euphoria. When it debuted in 2019, the series created by Sam Levinson seemed to come from another planet. Not only for its extreme and psychedelic portrayal of American adolescence, but above all for the way it constructed its visual imagery. Glittery makeup, impossible crop tops, latex, vintage archival pieces, hypersexualized silhouettes: everything in Euphoria was excessive, theatrical, almost unreal. And it was precisely this excess that made it a perfect machine for contemporary fashion. Between 2019 and 2022, the show’s looks became memes, beauty tutorials, Pinterest inspiration boards, and TikTok trends. Entire aesthetics born online—from soft grunge to ultra-Y2K party glam—owe something to that surreal high school where students looked like they’d stepped out of a postapocalyptic fashion show. A universe that openly plundered Petra Collins’ artistic imagination, yet transformed it into a global pop language. Now, four years after the second season, Euphoria 3 arrives in a completely different landscape. The actors have become global stars, luxury brands have made them ambassadors, and fashion has stopped merely observing the phenomenon: it has entered the series directly. In the new season, Jacob Elordi appears in looks by Bottega Veneta,

the house for which he is an official ambassador. Meanwhile, Balenciaga even launched a collaboration dedicated to the series during its FW 26 show. It is no longer simply costume design: it is advanced product placement, integrated into the narrative and designed to live beyond the screen, across social media, the red carpet, and online shopping. And this is where TV series are surpassing films. Movies create icons. Series, on the other hand, build familiarity. They enter viewers’ daily lives for weeks, sometimes years, and allow characters to become permanent aesthetic models. It’s no coincidence that Gen Z is more likely to copy Maddy Perez’s makeup (the series’ protagonist) than the wardrobe of a Hollywood diva. Digital language also makes a difference. Every episode of a series today is immediately dissected, “clipped,” and reposted on social media. An outfit seen for 30 seconds can turn into a global trend overnight. And brands know this all too well. The risk, if anything, is that everything becomes too explicit. The first Euphoria seemed spontaneous, almost anarchic in its use of fashion. Today, the impression is that luxury wants to institutionalize that creative chaos, transforming it into a permanent advertising platform. Will it work? Perhaps, at least in the short term. But the hype of the younger generations is volatile by definition: they immediately sense when something emerges as an authentic cultural expression and when it is instead marketing disguised as storytelling. And this is the real challenge for Euphoria 3: to continue to appear as a series capable of creating imaginative worlds, without simply becoming a long, multi-million-dollar fashion campaign.

The poster for Season 3 of the TV series *Euphoria*. A look from Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2026–2027 fashion show

2FINAL DATA

In the fifth edition of “100 Perspectives,” HUB Style takes a look back at the past year through the eyes of 100 Italian multi-brand boutiques. Here is the final roundup Download

by Sara Fumagallo and Alessandro Marra

025 is shaping up to be a challenging year for the Italian fashion retail sector, caught between slowing consumer spending, increasingly thin profit margins, and far more selective customers. This is the picture painted by the fifth edition of “100 Points of View” our exclusive survey that gathers insights from 100 Italian multi-brand boutiques (North: 56, Central: 21, South and Islands: 23) and provides a concrete snapshot of the market through the perspective of those who interact with the end consumer on a daily basis. A privileged vantage point that, once again this year, highlights a sector that is cautious yet resilient, capable of responding to challenges by focusing on expertise, service, and the quality of the in-store experience. The survey reveals a retail sector that continues to believe in the value of the physical store, which is now increasingly integrated with digital tools such as e-commerce and social media, yet remains central to building customer relationships. The shopping experience remains the main distinguishing feature of boutiques: assisted sales, curated selections, personalized services, and events become strategic levers for retaining a consumer who buys less on impulse and with greater awareness. It is no coincidence that over 80% of the retailers surveyed now describe their customers as “selective,” confirming a shift in attitude that is now evident in the market. The year’s performance was primarily influenced by the general climate of uncertainty, the constant early launch of promotions,

OVERALL SENTIMENT IN 2025

45 33 22

and the increasingly divisive issue of Black Friday. It is precisely this last point that represents one of the most critical aspects emerging from the survey: the majority of boutiques consider it incompatible with their premium and luxury positioning, perceiving it as a mechanism that generates a continuous price war and risks compromising credibility, margins, and product value. This perception is also confirmed by data released by Confesercenti, according to which Black Friday brought forward part of the Christmas shopping, squeezing December sales and contributing to a weaker end-of-year period for retail. The picture painted by Confesercenti highlights a still-fragile landscape: 2025 would mark the fourth consecutive year in which Italians spend more to buy less, with sales growing in value but declining in volume. This trend inevitably extends to fashion retail, where boutiques find themselves operating in an increasingly competitive and promotional market, while still maintaining their role as local and cultural hubs for the fashion sector. Despite everything, balancing caution with pragmatism, many retailers are looking toward 2026 with the goal of consolidating the results achieved, while others see room for growth. The shared sentiment is that the sector is undergoing a phase of profound transformation, in which authenticity, reliability, and professionalism will once again make a difference far more than aggressive discount strategies. And it is precisely from this point that Italian independent retail seems poised to make a fresh start.

YEAR-END FINANCIAL STATEMENTS AND FORECASTS

WHAT WAS THE TREND IN 2025? (AS A PERCENTAGE) OF IN-STORE SALES?

Brick-and-mortar retail is showing encouraging signs: nearly one in two stores reports sales growth, while 31% report stable sales. Only 21% report a decline, confirming the resilience of the traditional retail channel despite an economic climate that remains cautious.

Increase: 37

Stability: 51

Decrease: 12

Increasing: 48

Building: 31

Down: 21

IN TERMS OF SALES, WHAT ARE THE FORECASTS FOR 2026?

A mood of cautious optimism prevails for 2026. More than half of industry players anticipate business stability, while 37% expect sales to increase. Negative expectations remain in the minority, indicating moderate confidence in the premium-luxury market.

ONLINE SALES

IN 2025, WHAT PERCENTAGE OF YOUR TOTAL REVENUE DID YOUR ONLINE SALES ACCOUNT FOR?

E-commerce continues to serve as a complementary channel for many boutiques: 46% report that they do not yet have an online store, while for 30%, digital sales account for less than 10% of total revenue. Only a minority exceed 30%, confirming the central role of the in-store experience in the premium segment.

WHICH SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS DO YOU USE AS A SALES OR PROMOTIONAL CHANNEL?

Instagram remains the primary communication and marketing tool for multibrand boutiques, followed by Facebook. TikTok is still largely marginal.

CONSUMER

ARE CUSTOMERS MORE LIKELY TO MAKE "IMPULSE" PURCHASES, OR DO THEY PREFER TO THINK IT OVER MORE CAREFULLY?

More than 80% of boutiques report that customers are more thoughtful and careful before making a purchase. Impulse buying remains limited, especially in a context where quality, design, and perceived value play a decisive role.

WHAT IS THE AVERAGE AGE OF YOUR CUSTOMERS?

The core target audience for premium-luxury boutiques is primarily people aged 35 to 54, a demographic that accounts for over 70% of the customer base. These are mature consumers with established spending power who place greater emphasis on product quality and durability.

SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

DO CUSTOMERS TEND TO SEARCH ONLINE BEFORE VISITING A STORE, OR IS THE IN-STORE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE STILL THE NORM?

The shopping experience is evolving toward an omnichannel model. Nearly half of retailers report that customers research products online before making a purchase in-store. However, physical stores continue to play a central role thanks to the value of the in-person experience and personal interaction.

THAN 10% BETWEEN 10% AND 30%

BETWEEN 30% AND 50% WE DON'T HAVE AN E-COMMERCE SITE

Instagram: 92

Facebook: 68

TikTok: 14

Online search + boutique purchases: 47

TOP-SELLING BRANDS

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

1. BARBOUR

2. MAX MARA

3. HERNO

4. RALPH LAUREN

5. TAGLIATORE

6. CIRCOLO 1901

7. NEW BALANCE 8. WEEKEND MAX MARA

15. K-WAY 16. LIU JO 17. BLAUER 18. IBLUES 19. LIVIANA CONTI 20. MISSONI

In womenswear, brands that successfully blend quality, heritage, and versatility are gaining prominence. Barbour takes the top spot, followed by Max Mara and Herno, confirming the success of versatile collections that prioritize a sophisticated yet functional style.

MEN'S CLOTHING

1. BARBOUR

2. TAGLIATORE

3. RRD

4. C.P. COMPANY

5. STONE ISLAND

6. ROY ROGER’S

7. XACUS

8. MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI

SASSO

LABEL 15. WOOLRICH

DONDUP 17. FAY

18. MC2 SAINT BARTH 19. BLAUER 20. KANGRA

In men's fashion, brands specializing in outerwear and premium casual wear dominate the market. Barbour leads the rankings ahead of Tagliatore and RRD, reflecting a growing demand for versatile, technical products suited to a contemporary wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES

1. ORCIANI

2. MC2 SAINT BARTH

3. BARBOUR

4. FILSON

5. RAINS

6. LACOSTE

7. GIANNI CHIARINI

8. CAMPOMAGGI

TOMMY HILFIGER

ZANELLATO

ALBERTO LUTI

EMPORIO ARMANI

AVENUE 67

ETRO

15. GALLO

HOGAN 17. SPRAYGROUND 18. STETSON 19. DESTIN 20. K-WAY

Accessories favor recognizable and functional brands: Orciani takes first place, followed by MC2 Saint Barth and Barbour Interest is growing in products that combine style, practicality, and a strong brand identity.

FOOTWEAR

1. AUTRY

2. PREMIATA

3. SEBAGO

4. FLOWER MOUNTAIN

5. DOUCAL’S

6. PURAAI

7. NEW BALANCE

BLUNDSTONE

HENDERSON BARACCO

PANCHIC

ROSSI

ASICS

In the footwear sector, the trend toward premium sneakers and hybrid footwear is gaining momentum. Autry tops the rankings, followed by Premiata and Sebago, confirming a demand focused on comfort, lifestyle, and the blending of casual and luxury styles.

BRAND BEST SELLER

1. BARBOUR

RRD 3. TAGLIATORE

2025 is shaping up to be a particularly strong year for Barbour, which, according to our analysis, has claimed the top spot among best-selling brands for the second consecutive year. The brands that stand out are those with a strong identity, a recognizable heritage, and a product offering that successfully combines functionality, quality, and contemporary style.

Note: Not all boutiques have identified a breakout brand

LIVING THROUGH CONTEMPORARY FASHION

For the SS 27 collection, Montecore creates a lightweight and sophisticated wardrobe in which materials, textures, and functionality define a new vision of contemporary style

There is an elegance that doesn’t need to raise its voice. It is evident in the details, in the quality of a texture that is felt almost before it is seen. But also in the quiet precision of impeccable craftsmanship. Montecore’s Spring-Summer 2027 collection belongs to this rare category: that of brands that do not chase time, but move through it. With its new summer collection, Montecore continues its “Beyond Time” journey and defines a wardrobe that shuns the ephemeral to focus on what endures. There is no room for excess or for stylistic exercise as an end in itself. Everything appears calibrated, essential, deeply contemporary, sophisticated. It is the idea of an evolved yet cultured Italian style, one that knows tradition without remaining its prisoner.

A new lifestyle

The brand’s iconic pieces from the peacoat to the field jacket, from the trench coat to the raincoat, and including

technical outerwear are reimagined with balanced proportions and clean lines, striking a refined balance between function and sophistication. The result is a casual-chic elegance that seems made to naturally accompany every moment of the day: the city, travel, leisure, and the great outdoors. Lightness is one of the season’s most compelling themes, alongside versatility and texture. Airy wools, breathable cottons, and technical blends interact with textile innovation that becomes a true sensory experience. Surfaces gain depth through textured weaves, three-dimensional effects, and sophisticated textures. The color palette conveys a precise sense of style: milk, sand, biscuit, and tobacco meet deeper shades like olive, military green, sky blue, and midnight blue, in an elegant and relaxed chromatic sequence. With SS 27, Montecore proposes a contemporary approach to dressing: understated, conscious, impeccably discreet.

“MONTECORE CONTINUES TO EVOLVE IN THE SPIRIT OF ESSENTIAL CONTEMPORANEITY, WHERE INNOVATION, FUNCTIONALITY, AND COMFORT FIND A BALANCE. I BELIEVE IN A CONCEPT OF OUTERWEAR THAT ACCOMPANIES EVERYDAY LIFE WITH ELEGANCE AND CONSISTENCY, WITH A CONSTANT FOCUS ON THE QUALITY OF MATERIALS AND HOW THE GARMENTS INTEGRATE INTO DAILY LIFE” FABIO PERONI, FOUNDER

Some pieces from Montecore's SS 27 collection

LIVING IMPERFECTION

Blending Mediterranean philosophy with Japanese imagery, Satorisan constructs a grammar of beauty that springs from time, not from the idea of perfection, and that expresses the concept of durability

The first step is always a choice of perspective. In 2010, Alejandro Monzó Tadeo created Satorisan much like one builds a vocabulary: starting with a figure from Japanese mythology, “Satori,” and an imagery that points toward a direction rather than a destination. From there, a brand comes to life that does not seek the flawless object, but one that knows how to change alongside the wearer. The encounter between Japanese culture and Mediterranean sensibility is never merely decorative. It is a fertile friction: on one hand, the philosophy of the essential; on the other, a more instinctive, warm, material, and imperfect everyday life. Thus emerges a concept of footwear that belongs to movement, to the street, to time. At the heart of the project, four elements coexist: quality, comfort, uniqueness, and value for money. These do not function as a definition, but as a tension. Everything

revolves around a form of authenticity that accepts the material for what it is: imperfect and marked, yet at the same time real. Not as an aesthetic of imperfection, but as a language of truth.

The Beauty of Truth

And it is against this backdrop that the SS 27 collection, “The Beauty of Truth,” takes shape. A collection that does not force change, but allows it to emerge naturally: subtle variations, new materials, and innovative finishes that settle onto iconic models like traces rather than bold interventions. Time enters the design and ceases to be a backdrop: it becomes the living essence of the project. The surfaces shift, breathe, as if slowly learning about the world. And what remains is not the idea of perfection, but a quieter continuity: when things cease to be new and simply begin to feel like your own.

“THE IDEA WAS TO CREATE AN EXTRAORDINARY PRODUCT, "ABLE TO REACH THE FEET OF PEOPLE FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE AND, AS I LIKE TO SAY, HELP LITTLE HEARTS GROW FROM THEIR FEET" ALEJANDRO MONZÓ TADEO, FOUNDER

“THERE’S NO NEED TO HIDE WHAT SOMETHING REALLY IS. AT SATORISAN, WE DON’T TALK ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY, BUT ABOUT AWARENESS.

THE MOST RESPONSIBLE PRODUCT IS THE ONE THAT LASTS”

ALEJANDRO

Here are some photos of Satorisan’s iconic shoes. On the right are the Chacrona Linen, and on the left are the Kwahu Rustic loafers

Alejandro Monzó Tadeo, founder

MONZÓ TADEO, FOUNDER

LIVING SURFACES

With metallic sheens, experimental dyes, and streamlined silhouettes, Ten c’s new summer collection redefines the concept of contemporary outerwear through its use of materials

There comes a moment when fabric research ceases to be a technical exercise and becomes a language. This is where the Spring/Summer 2027 collection of Ten c fits in—the brand from Enzo Fusco’s FGF Group, creatively led by Alessandro Pungetti, which continues to move away from seasonal conventions, following a path defined by experimentation, functionality, and identity. At the heart of the collection is the new garment-dyed titanium nylon polyester fabric, developed after over a year of research. A living surface that reacts to light with iridescent reflections and unexpected depth. It debuts on three signature pieces—the Jeans Jacket, Alpen Jacket, and Windproof Anorak—available in earth-inspired shades: Pompeii red, sand, and sienna. Natural colors that, thanks to the dyeing process, take on an almost metallic sheen. Alongside titanium comes the new “dust” dye, an experimental treatment that deposits powders on the garment’s surface, creating a slightly worn and parchment-like effect without sacrificing aesthetic cleanliness. The iconic OJJ—the Original Japanese Jersey, the brand’s symbol—remains central, reinterpreted here in a new, lighter 9-ounce version designed for summer. It appears in a jogging suit, a field jacket, and a minimalist bomber, while spray finishes and two-tone prints enhance the textural depth of pants and Bermuda shorts.

Matter in Motion

Ten c’s military spirit continues to evolve through new weights and new interpretations. Field jackets, overshirts, and pants are lightened thanks to impalpable nylon-cotton blends and garment-dyed gabardine, while retaining the functional attitude that has defined the brand since its inception. The technical dimension also finds new expressions in Nifol metal-resin nylon, characterized by a titanium-effect inner coating that creates sophisticated contrasts between matte and light. The Skye Ten Anorak, offered in transparent nylon and garment-dyed Tactel, perfectly encapsulates this tension between performance and minimalism. It is no coincidence that, upon Oasis’s return in 2025, Liam Gallagher takes the stage wearing a Skye Ten Anorak born from the collaboration between Ten c and Awake NY: a choice that is anything but random, bringing attention back to the most radical technical outerwear and the cult aesthetic of contemporary casual culture. The color palette ranges from blue, khaki, beige, off-white, mud black, and periwinkle, enriched by splashes and two-tone treatments that transform color into a dynamic surface. In a landscape dominated by overbranding, Ten c continues to focus on substance. And that is precisely why it still manages to stand out.

The Titanium fabric, created using advanced nanotechnology to give the jackets a waterproof and ultra-durable finish, features in three iconic pieces from Ten c’s SS 27 collection. On the left is the Windproof anorak, in the center is the Windproof anorak, and on the right is the Jeans jacket

For the Oasis reunion in 2025, Liam Gallagher chose to take the stage wearing a Skye Ten Anorak

BEYOND THE SNEAKER

Moaconcept is redefining its positioning as a lifestyle brand that combines innovation, culture, and social responsibility. Because today, fashion is as much about design as it is about the ability to create meaningful value

Moaconcept is accelerating its evolution and looking beyond the world of sneakers. With the FW 26/27 collection, the brand is ushering in a new phase built on product diversification, aesthetic exploration, and concrete sustainability, reaffirming an increasingly international and contemporary vision. The collection emerges as a journey through three metropolises off the beaten path Seoul, Antwerp, and Philadelphia transformed into stylistic language and material experimentation. The result is an urban narrative with a bold character, where textures and craftsmanship take center stage. Pony skin, animal prints, and reptile patterns are reinterpreted with a contemporary sensibility, while crinkled satin, shearling, and fur amplify the collection’s tactile dimension, designed for a sophisticated and protective winter. The color palette also plays on contrasts: warm and cool tones coexist in balance, highlighting materials and craftsmanship linked to the excellence of Made in Italy. A stylistic direction that confirms the brand’s commitment to expanding its creative vocabulary starting with Spring-Summer 2026, a season that saw the debut of limited editions dedicated to online sales and capable of transcending the boundaries of the traditional sneaker. At the same time, the focus on sustainability is growing, now a structural element of Moaconcept’s strategy. The “2nd Act” project introduces products to the market with a traceable and certified history. Each item is accompanied by a badge detailing its origin and lifecycle, effectively anticipating the standards required by the new European ESPR regulation on ecodesign. Alongside this, “Zero Waste” takes shape, developed in collaboration with a Florentine company specializing in the recovery of materials from luxury stock. An initiative that reinforces the brand’s circular approach and consolidates the search for solutions with low environmental impact.

On the left, a timeless Club style; on the right, the new Ikigai women’s collection by Moaconcept

Kangra

THE SILENCE OF MATTER

Simplicity is the keyword for Arovescio’s 2027 summer season. A collection defined by light and movement, one that whispers yet leaves a lasting impression

For Spring/Summer 2027, Arovescio embraces minimalism and creates a collection that speaks softly but leaves a lasting impression. A narrative woven from fabric, light, and movement, where each piece emerges from a refined balance between textile innovation and contemporary naturalness. The new collection moves within a contemplative and sensory realm, translating the concept of luxury into a discreet, authentic form, far removed from excess. The silhouettes are soft and relaxed, designed to move with the body naturally, while the textured surfaces and earthy tones evoke natural landscapes. Earth warmed by the sun, stone smoothed by time, the luminous hues of a Mediterranean summer. The absolute stars are the yarns. Cotton, silk, viscose, and linen intertwine in light, sophisticated textures, creating impalpable, fluid knits that combine comfort and refinement. The artisanal touch emerges in every detail—from three-dimensional stitches to handcrafted details and deliberately weathered surfaces—highlighting the value of time, technique, and uniqueness. Airbrushes further define the collection’s identity, creating irregular and delicate shading on the fabrics, like marks naturally left by sunlight. A poetic and almost organic effect that amplifies the garments’ visual depth and underscores their authentic character. With SS 27, Arovescio presents an essential yet sophisticated wardrobe, where textile innovation meets a new concept of elegance: spontaneous, understated, and deeply contemporary. A collection designed to exist in space and light with absolute lightness.

Some photos from the campaign Arovescio's SS 27

VACATION ON THE RIVIERA

With the SS 27 collection, Mauro Ottaviani solidifies his position in contemporary luxury knitwear: a quiet, deeply Italian elegance that transforms knitwear into a language of style and identity

Blending manufacturing heritage with a contemporary vision, Mauro Ottaviani’s knitwear continues to embody an authentic, sophisticated “Made in Italy” style that eschews ostentation. Born in the heart of Umbria, a historic hub of Italian textile craftsmanship, the brand founded on the expertise of Maglificio Maurel has been championing a concept of understated luxury since 2014, built on research, quality, and longevity. For SS 27, the label presents “Blue Hotel,” a collection that looks to the French Riviera and Europe as a cultural landscape. The hotel becomes a metaphor for a cultured and sentimental journey. Suspended spaces, rarefied atmospheres, details that evoke memory and timeless refinement. The result is an essential yet sophisticated wardrobe, designed for the contemporary man seeking a balance between comfort and elegance. The fits are soft and tailored, while technical experimentation focuses on knit stitches inspired by shirting. Oxford and English-style collars are reinterpreted through a knitwear lens, confirming the brand’s high level of craftsmanship and manufacturing expertise. Breton stripes run across solid surfaces, while “The Clay” polo, crafted from 3D piqué, reimagines tennis iconography with a relaxed, contemporary approach. The color palette alternates shades of white from milk to ivory with vibrant touches of Tamarindo, Oxford blue, Royal blue, and Honey yellow, creating a refined and luminous chromatic balance. At its core lies a precise production philosophy: the selection of fine yarns, sustainable manufacturing processes, ethical considerations, and a “timeless” product culture designed to create garments built to last. This approach also guides the brand’s international growth, now present in over 250 retail locations across Europe, Asia, and the Americas, with an increasingly selective distribution strategy focused

Mauro Ottaviani’s new 2027 summer collection, designed for the contemporary man who seeks comfort and elegance

crafted in Italy

A TRUE STORY BEHIND IT

Johnny Lambs has reclaimed its distinct place in the contemporary menswear scene. A place defined by accessible, intelligent, and instantly recognizable luxury

Some stories don’t need to be reinvented just brought back to their essence. It is from this principle that Johnny Lambs, the historic menswear brand, is relaunching, embarking on a new chapter under the guidance of Fashion Brand Development Srl, an Italian corporation that acquired the brand in early 2026 following a lengthy strategic relaunch process. Leading the creative revival is Angelo Loffredo, art director, tasked with restoring authenticity to an aesthetic that has always belonged to the world of relaxed masculine elegance. The result is an SS 27 collection that strips away the superfluous and recovers the brand’s original codes: British spirit, an effortless attitude, and a sophistication that is never ostentatious. Presented at Pitti Uomo, the collection builds a contemporary wardrobe designed for men between the ages of 30 and 50 urban professionals who choose durable, functional, and identity-defining garments, far removed from both sartorial rigidity and the dynamics of fast fashion. The collection unfolds across three distinct aesthetic worlds. “Queen’s Cup” an informal name often used to refer to the America’s Cup, due to the presence of the British Crown and the traditional context of royal regattas draws inspiration directly from this trophy. A dynamic and sophisticated collection where optical white and navy meet high-performance nylon, technical jersey, and stretch piqué. “Heritage,” the narrative heart of the season, draws from the brand’s historical archive and the English college aesthetic, featuring bottle green, beige, and relaxed silhouettes. Standouts include the ultra-light stretch piqué jacket, the shirt with a denim collar, and the iconic Johnny Lambs polo, reinterpreted with playful nods to the “Avvocato” (Agnelli) style. Finally, “Tennis,” inspired by the aesthetics of 1980s Wimbledon, showcases a refined all-white palette accented with sky-blue details and red accents. Technical polo shirts, stretch cotton Bermuda

shorts, and ultra-lightweight outerwear convey a minimalist, contemporary sporty elegance. Finally, great attention is paid to materials: Italian cottons, recycled nylon, organic cotton, and technical piqué coexist in a design philosophy focused on comfort, lightness, and sustainability. In fact, over 60% of the collection is made from recycled fibers, while archival embroidery, garment dyeing, and contrast stitching reinforce the brand’s authentic character.

Pictured: “Borg”—an iconic 1980s piece made of lightweight stretch interlock with blue stripes on an off-white background

The “Avvocato” denim-collar polo shirt, made from lightweight stretch piqué

THIS IS A TARTAN STORY

Barbour’s story has deep Scottish roots, which, not surprisingly, find their expression in the signature check pattern. These are not just simple checks, but true symbols of authenticity, capable of evolving with the seasons

Belonging. This is the key word that tells the story of Barbour, a brand of WP Lavori in Corso, a group founded in 1982 by Cristina Calori. A deep connection one that cannot be seen but can be felt that weaves itself into an identity made up of gestures, places, and traditions. And it is precisely from this sentiment that the brand’s tartans are born, now an authentic symbol of its Scottish roots and values, reintroduced in the 2026 season.

A Family Tradition

More than just a checkered pattern, tartan has always been one of the distinctive hallmarks of its universe. A symbol of authenticity rooted in family tradition and Scottish textile culture. Each design is in fact born from a sett, a unique pattern of threads interwoven horizontally and vertically, registered and officially recognized. An unchanging structure that preserves the essence of the brand, while opening up to new chromatic interpretations capable of engaging with the present. The history of Barbour tartans unfolds through a series of chapters that chronicle the brand’s evolution over time. The first is the Classic Tartan, introduced in 1998 and destined to become an icon. Created to adorn the famous waxed jackets, it pays homage to the colors of the British countryside and remains one of the brand’s most recognizable elements to this day. In 2002, the Dress Tartan arrived, developed in collaboration with Kinloch Anderson. The design reinterprets the style of 18th-century tartans through a lighter base, illuminated by sophisticated earthy hues. Four years later, in 2006, it was the turn of the Ancient Tartan, characterized by a delicate sage green that evokes the natural shades historically used in traditional dyes.

Tartan remains Barbour’s signature pattern in 2026 as well. For this season, the collection has been further expanded with three new variations: Highland Loch Tartan, Dress Navy Tartan, and Oban Mist Tartan

From the archives to today

For 2026, Barbour further expands its archive with three new variations that celebrate the unspoiled beauty of Scotland. The Highland Loch Tartan combines intense greens and deep blues inspired by the lakes of the Highlands and the first light of spring. The Dress Navy Tartan, on the other hand, offers a more delicate and feminine reinterpretation of the original Dress, featuring soft sandy hues. Completing the trio is the Oban Mist Tartan, which evokes the ethereal atmosphere of the Scottish coast through a refined combination of ethereal grays and deep blues. Behind these patterns lies a story of collaboration and research. The origins of Barbour tartan, in fact, lie in the joint work of Dame Margaret and Helen Barbour alongside the experts at Kinloch Anderson, who were called upon to reinterpret the historic Ayrshire patterns to create an exclusive collection. A design destined to become the defining thread of the brand’s identity, capable of uniting past and present in a perfectly contemporary synthesis. Today, this heritage lives on within Barbour’s collections, extending far beyond the realm of outerwear. From the linings of the iconic waxed jackets to ready-to-wear garments, and even footwear and accessories, tartans remain a universal and recognizable element. Sometimes the absolute stars, other times subtle details, they tell a story of a legacy built on craftsmanship, innovation, and authenticity.

CLOUDS IN TOWN

Some stories don’t need to be reinvented; they just need to rediscover their core. And that’s exactly what happened with ADD’s FW 26 collection. A fresh start

Winter 2026 marks the debut collection from ADD following its acquisition by the Space 2000 group, representing a return to the roots of "ADD DOWN." The Clouds in Town line, part of the collection, is designed by Giovanni Chicco, founder of the original project. The collection is being developed by the brand’s long-standing design team, which continues the brand’s journey today under the leadership of Gianluca Licciardi. This return is not driven by nostalgia, but rather by a clear desire to recapture the vision that made the label an absolute benchmark in contemporary outerwear. In the late ’90s, ADD DOWN had transformed the language of the down jacket. Down became a material of style, capable of redefining the volume, weight, and perception of outerwear, turning it not just into a technical garment but a true couture piece: lightweight, urban, and versatile. And

FW 26 picks up right where it left off. The result? Soft, enveloping, protective garments that are, at the same time, incredibly lightweight. Some jackets weigh as little as 300 grams, thanks to advanced down-padding techniques that enhance comfort and volume without adding weight.

The Return of a Vision

“Clouds in Town” translates into soft surfaces, fluid movements, and a constant sense of lightness. The garments follow the body’s contours, providing protection without feeling stiff, transforming outerwear into a sensory experience as well as an aesthetic one. Material research remains central. 100% cashmere gauze, down, and hyper-light nylon become the key elements of an essential and sophisticated collection, designed for urban daily life where performance and identity coexist without compromise.

"Clouds in Town" by ADD is a soft, light, and flowing collection

DRESSING FOR SUCCESS

With double-digit growth and over 250 stores, the Rome-based brand Dan John is strengthening its retail-focused model and accelerating its international expansion

by Valeria Oneto

There is one detail that speaks to Dan John’s success. His suits are no longer reserved solely for formal occasions; they have become part of everyday life. This is where the brand founded in Rome in 2015 by Daniele Raccah and Giovanni Della Rocca has built its trajectory: transforming men’s elegance into something accessible, recognizable, and contemporary, without stripping it of its identity. A positioning that is now reflected in a global network and steadily growing numbers. We’ll let CEO and co-founder Daniele Raccah speak for himself.

When did you realize that Dan John had become a fully-fledged brand?

When we saw our clothes becoming part of people’s everyday lives no longer just for special occasions that’s when we realized we weren’t just selling clothes anymore, but a recognizable lifestyle.

The year 2025 closed with €140 million in revenue and 16% growth. What was the main driver?

The decision was to make no compromises on perceived quality, absorbing part of the cost increase. Growth stemmed from the trust built up over time and a very solid retail model: over 250 stores and more than 8 million annual visits.

Your business model remains heavily focused on the physical world, while the industry as a whole is moving toward digital. Why did you make this choice?

Physical retail is our “sanctuary” and remains central to our

“THE

business. Ideally, it’s located in a strategic spot that captures the flow of everyday life. It’s where customers experience the brand, touch the product, and build a direct connection. It’s not just about sales it’s about the experience.

You serve 1.5 million customers and record over 8 million store visits. What kind of relationship do you have with your customers, and what role do sales associates play?

We build relationships based on trust on a large scale. Our sales associates are style consultants who understand the customer’s needs and guide them toward choices that enhance their personal style.

How important is international expansion today?

Today we operate in 32 countries. Italy still accounts for about 90% of our revenue, but future growth will increasingly be driven by international markets. Southeast Asia, in particular, is responding very quickly: there is an emerging middle class with strong demand for European style, showing great responsiveness to contemporary retail much faster than in Western markets.

What is your development target?

Reaching 160 million by 2026, driven primarily by international expansion and new store openings: more than 40 are planned for next year.

E la scelta più rischiosa che oggi si è rivelata giusta?

Aver continuato a investire sul retail fisico durante le crisi globali, quando molti lo consideravano un modello superato.

RESULTS ACHIEVED IN 2025 CONFIRM THE VALIDITY OF OUR POSITIONING AND OUR GROWTH STRATEGY. WE CONTINUE TO INVEST IN RETAIL DEVELOPMENT AND IN STRENGTHENING OUR INTERNATIONAL PRESENCE, WHILE MAINTAINING VERY HIGH QUALITY STANDARDS BOTH IN OUR STORES AND IN CUSTOMER SERVICE”

DANIELE RACCAH, CO-FOUNDER AND CEO

A shot of State Route 26, an image from the Volume collection, and a glimpse inside the store

54

WEAVEBORN OUT OF THE DOLOMITES, CRAFTED BY PIONEERS AND WORN BY ADVENTURERS SINCE 1897.

THE POOL WEEKEND

A simple yet sophisticated summer, where the Montechiaro style is expressed through natural elegance and lightweight fabrics, perfect for spending a weekend of understated charm by the pool

There is a moment in summer when time seems to slow down. The days grow longer, the noise of the world fades into the distance, and style becomes something instinctive, almost natural. It is within this delicate balance that “THE POOL WEEKEND” takes shape Montechiaro’s story for Spring-Summer 2027. An elegant seaside retreat, the sun’s reflection on the pool, the tranquility of Mediterranean nature accompanying each day. There is no rush, no ostentation. Only the pleasure of things done well and experienced with ease. The Montechiaro man moves through this landscape with lightness. He wears slim-fit polo shirts, soft cardigans, and linen shirt-jackets. Garments that follow the movement of the body and the season. The style appears relaxed, yet never casual an elegance that does not seek attention but wins it through the harmony of details. The swimwear evokes a refined world, with patterns inspired by silk tie designs. The collection draws inspiration from the colors of the surrounding landscape. Deep burgundies interact with dusty blues, while shades of sage green and luminous grays are paired with ecru and the most delicate whites. The materials do the rest. Lightweight, mercerized cottons, ultra-fine knits that seem to almost vanish when worn. Every surface tells a story of quiet craftsmanship complex techniques, unexpected color combinations, and details that emerge only upon closer inspection. It is in the knitwear that this craftsmanship finds its most complete expression. Sophisticated textures, material depth, and nuances achieved through the interplay of multiple colors give life to garments that shift with the light, revealing a new facet each time. Then there are the tactile details: terry-like inserts, openwork, and small irregularities that bring everything to life. Cardigans become lightweight jackets, without a rigid structure, with a freer elegance, while polo shirts and T-shirts explore a refined dialogue between tradition and modernity. In the end, what remains is the most authentic feeling of summer: that of a beauty that needs no explanation. You just have to experience it.

A few shots from Montechiaro's SS 27 collection

URBAN TRANSITION

Invicta’s collection interprets climate and urban change through lightweight, versatile pieces. With packable outerwear, jersey, and heritage-inspired details, the wardrobe evolves in a dynamic and contemporary way

There is a specific moment when your wardrobe must learn to adapt. When the morning sun warms the air as if it were the height of summer, but just a few hours later a sudden breeze arrives, changing the rhythm of the day. It is within this everchanging space that “Urban Transition” finds its place Invicta’s new SS 27 collection, designed to accompany an increasingly dynamic, unpredictable, and fast-paced daily life. The brand’s historic functional approach meets a minimalist urban aesthetic, creating a collection that transcends the traditional concept of outerwear. Outerwear becomes ultra-lightweight, practical, and versatile, designed to respond to sudden weather changes without compromising on style. The lines become lighter, the volumes softer, while jerseys and polo shirts interpret contemporary leisurewear with natural ease and comfort.

Color, too, reflects this evolution. The shades in the Invicta collection are vibrant yet restrained. Among the most interesting elements is the fusion of beachwear and packable outerwear. Swimwear graphics are transferred to lightweight, compact jackets, designed to be folded, carried in a backpack, and worn spontaneously. At the same time, with “Back to Icon,” the label reinterprets its heritage through an accessories line that brings its most recognizable codes into the present. The historic logo, jacquard ribbons, square buckles, and pop colors are transformed into backpacks, bags, and pouches with an urban and functional character. It’s not nostalgia; it’s evolution. The new line preserves its recognizable identity while making it lighter, more versatile, and in tune with the rhythms of the modern city. A return to the city with a new energy.

Selected pieces from Invicta's SS 27 collection

THE SUMMER KNOT

Drawing inspiration from the Riviera and the new SS 27 collection, Gassa d’Amante expands its lifestyle universe with swimwear, knitwear, beach towels, and footwear, creating a beachwear wardrobe

Founded in 2021 by Andrea Rapetti, Marco Rapetti, and Amedeo La Cava, Gassa d’Amante was born in Liguria during the Covid pandemic, almost as a bit of fun, out of a personal need: to find a swimsuit that truly represented them in terms of fit, style, and the ability to capture the essence of the sea they came from. Today, the brand reinterprets the timeless elegance of Italy’s most iconic seaside resorts through a contempo-

rary collection that blends design, sustainability, and lifestyle. The name is inspired by the Gassa d’Amante, one of the most well-known knots in nautical tradition. It evokes the founders’ maritime roots and an imagery of the sea, freedom, travel, and authenticity. Each print is born from something they actually encountered on their travels: “We observe, photograph, gather inspiration, and transform it into patterns that tell an authentic story of the sea and its coasts,” say the founders. The first collection featured 14 swimsuits, each inspired by a place, a memory, or a detail of the Italian Riviera—from seaside homes to striped curtains, from fishermen’s boats to sun-faded umbrellas, all the way to hand-painted signs and salt-worn tiles. Even today, every swimsuit comes with a postcard that tells the story behind the pattern, transforming the product into a little piece of Italian summer to wear or give as a gift. Among the most iconic images in the brand’s history is one taken in 2022 in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. A fashion show, but not a traditional one: about 25 friends, none of them professional models, wore white linen shirts and Gassa d’Amante swimwear to present the collection to the public, in full compliance with the rules and with the necessary permits. This also gave rise to one of the brand’s key insights: swimwear is not just a beach outfit, but part of a lifestyle that accompanies you throughout the day, from the sea to the city. A concept revisited in the Spring-Summer 2027 collection. Following the opening in 2026 of its first flagship stores in Alassio, Santa Margherita Ligure, Forte dei Marmi, and Porto Rotondo, the label is consolidating its growth, bringing a fresh, recognizable, and deeply Mediterranean elegance to the iconic destinations of the Italian summer.

The 2022 fashion show at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan

The Costumes of Gassa d’Amante

NEW URBAN GEOMETRIES

RRD – Roberto Ricci Designs opens its first store in Milan, in the heart of the fashion district. A minimalist space that embodies the brand’s identity through innovation, materials, and design

In Milan, RRD – Roberto Ricci Designs has opened its first Milanese showroom at Via San Pietro All’Orto 11. The opening brings the brand’s technical and modern minimalism to the city, a style that has always been built on the balance between performance and design. The space, spanning approximately 450 square meters, serves as a true extension of the brand’s aesthetic minimalist yet welcoming. Nothing is left to chance. An environment that reflects the brand’s history, born in 1994 from the vision of Roberto Ricci, the brand’s founder, between the Maremma and Maui, where the culture of wind, sea, and functionality met a precise and recognizable aesthetic vision. Designed by the in-house creative team, the space is conceived to be comfortable and sophisticated. Cocciopesto floors, dark surfaces, and

minimalist volumes define a setting characterized by the brand’s colors: black, white, gray, and orange. Completing the space is a selection of furniture by Boffi|DePadova and ADL, united by a shared design vision based on functionality, attention to materials, and formal purity.

“The Milan opening represents a new step in the brand’s expansion plan, which looks toward new Italian cities and major European markets,” says Roberto Bardini, CEO and creative director of RRD – Roberto Ricci Designs. Among the guests at the opening night was actress and director Kasia Smutniak, an RRD brand ambassador and passionate kitesurfer, whose authentic connection to the ocean perfectly embodies the brand’s spirit. Also in attendance were entrepreneur Alessandro Benetton, RRD’s first brand ambassador in 2014, and director Giovanni Veronesi.

Above: a photo of Roberto Bardini, CEO and creative director of RRD; Kasia Smutniak, actress, director, and brand ambassador; and Roberto Ricci, founder of the brand.

Below and to the right are photos of the interior and exterior of the RRD – Roberto Ricci Designs store in Milan

ALPINE HERITAGE

With over 130 years of history, Dolomite unveils its SS 27 collection, combining technical innovation, comfort, design, and a contemporary outdoor aesthetic. Among the highlights is the Cinquantaquattro Weave: lightweight and breathable

With Dolomite, the outdoor world shifts gears and moves effortlessly between alpine trails and city streets, mountains and urban centers, creating a versatile footwear collection. For Spring-Summer 2027, the Italian brand with over 130 years of history redefines its aesthetic with a collection that blends performance, contemporary design, and a lifestyle spirit. A collection designed to accompany every moment of summer, from quick hikes to days in the city, without ever losing sight of comfort and design identity. The key concept is that of a fluid, dynamic outdoor experience, free from rigid definitions. The label’s new silhouettes move effortlessly through different environments, maintaining a precise balance between technical functionality and minimalist design. Aeris interprets the world of fast hiking with sleek lines and an agile construction designed for continuous movement. Vertis Low, on the other hand, leans toward a more technical approach, linked to the mountains and outdoor performance. Rounding out the collection is Cinquantaquattro Weave, likely the most versatile model of the season.

Cinquantaquattro Weave is the icon of the summer

A new evolution of the iconic 54 Low, the Cinquantaquattro Weave brings the DNA of the Dolomite icon into a summery, contemporary context. The design remains faithful to the aesthetic codes that have made the Cinquantaquattro family recognizable, but introduces lighter materials and a streamlined silhouette, designed to tackle the hot season with maximum versatility. The breathable fabric upper, enhanced

with side vents to promote airflow, emphasizes comfort and coolness even on the hottest days, while the leather and fabric lining helps improve fit and regulate the internal microclimate. Another distinctive feature is the Vibram sole made from Ecostep Recycle compound, redesigned with a cleaner, more urban profile compared to traditional versions of the line. This choice strengthens the dialogue between outdoor heritage and contemporary everyday life, maintaining reliability and grip but with a decidedly more lifestyle-oriented approach.

The Dolomite Cinquantaquattro Weave. The undisputed icons for SS 27

MAKE THE NEXT MOVE

In a market often driven by speed, BELL SURF is taking a different approach. True luxury lies in creating beautiful, practical, and long-lasting products. Not just items for a single season, but for a lifestyle

Some brands are born out of a marketing plan, but that’s not the case with BELL SURF. It’s a brand that draws its inspiration from the ocean, surf culture, the sound of the waves, and over 35 years of technical expertise honed through the sea, materials, and performance. Before becoming a clothing and lifestyle brand, it was a workshop where every product took shape not to chase a trend, but to meet a concrete need: to move better, last longer, and experience the sea with greater freedom. Its roots lie in the legacy of Euroglass, founded in Hossegor in 1990 by Stephen Bell known as “Belly” in the surfing world a leading name in the production of surfboards and technical accessories across Europe and Australia. From that history of craftsmanship, research, and collaboration with champions, athletes, and key figures in the international surf scene, a new vision is born today. BELL evolves and becomes more contemporary, creating a wardrobe designed for those who move between ocean and city, travel and daily life, performance and personal style. The boardshort remains the most authentic staple: technical in the water, elegant out of the water, minimalist in form, and built to last. Alongside it, outerwear, knitwear, accessories, and versatile pieces embody a new vision of coastal living: less seasonal, more authentic, and closer to the way people live today.

Some photos of BELL SURF

WEAVING THE LANDSCAPE

Twisted yarns and exclusive blends of cotton, linen, and silk convey a sense of freshness and a sophisticated, natural feel. With SS 27, Settefili Cashmere showcases its manufacturing heritage and introduces its innovative tech-cotton yarn

There is a precise moment when knitwear ceases to be merely a product and becomes a story. It is there that Settefili Cashmere builds its SpringSummer 2027 collection, a collection born from the intersection of textile research, regional heritage, and a chromatic sensibility capable of transforming the landscape into wearable fabric. The collection offers a tactile and visual journey into a more authentic, less ostentatious vision of contemporary luxury, built on the integrity of the yarn and the culture of craftsmanship. Cotton, linen, and silk intertwine in exclusive blends, twisted with artisanal precision, resulting in fresh, luminous surfaces that feel natural to the touch. Summer knitwear thus becomes a playground for experimentation, where lightness and structure coexist in harmony.

A revolution in luxury summer knitwear

At the heart of the collection is the debut of Tech Cotton, a yarn composed of 76% cotton and 24% nylon. Its uniqueness lies in its construction: an inner nylon core creates a voluminous and lightweight structure, while a cotton sheath wraps around the yarn, preserving its natural appearance and authentic feel. The result is a 3-gauge garment with a coarse-textured effect yet surprisingly lightweight, retaining cotton’s aesthetic qualities with opaque yet defined shades and a particularly crisp knit stitch. Thanks to its technical construction, the garment maintains volume, lightness, and elasticity, opening up new stylistic possibilities without sacrificing naturalness. The collection also introduces more contemporary proportions and new product identities. The polo shirts, soft and sophisticated, blend the casualness of knitwear with the elegance of a tailored shirt. The iconic cardigans are reinterpreted through “knit-tailored”

constructions, where the language of fabric enters the world of knitwear and redefines its boundaries. It is a relaxed yet precise wardrobe, designed for a man seeking comfort, character, and tangible quality. Color also guides the narrative. The palette emerges from observations of the local landscape and its architecture: the yellows of wheat fields, the greens of orchards, the terracotta reds of Ferrara’s historic Via delle Volte, the denim blues and azure hues of the Adriatic coast. Each shade is filtered through an artisanal sensibility that does not merely reproduce nature, but interprets it. Color becomes memory, emotion, identity.

A style inspired by outerwear but with the comfort of a knit, featuring a bomber-style cut, a boat neck, and large patch pockets

The SS 27 collection from Settefili Cashmere introduces new proportions and contemporary identities

info@ama-brand.com @amabrand

SUMMER SEASON CODES

The upcoming summer season reimagines the wardrobe through a new concept of formality—one that is more fluid and contemporary. From nautical inspiration to a vintage vibe, from workwear to deep blue, the season strikes a balance between tradition and modernity. With a touch of surprise and dynamism by Valeria Oneto and Micaela Panzini

MID-SUMMER

For Berwich, the SS 27 collection begins as a narrative of summer days that evolves into fabric and fit, where the passing of the months becomes a design language for the men’s wardrobe. “Il Tempo Indossato” unfolds through evocative color palettes and refined fabrics.

CORAL SHIFT

Paoloni is changing the pace of men’s formal wear, taking it into a freer, more instinctive realm. The suit becomes lighter, the jacket loses its stiffness, and the way men dress becomes more spontaneous. Coral pink is the hallmark of the season, an accent that disrupts the classic balance.

NEW CLASSICS

For Antica Cuoieria, the season takes shape through a reinterpretation of loafers, Oxfords, and monk straps, expanding the collection with deconstructed suede styles and unlined suede boat shoes, designed to provide a comfortable fit over time. The patent leather surfaces and hand-finished glossy details leave a distinctive mark.

FUNCTION MEETS STYLE

Manuel Ritz interprets the concept of bleisure through a wardrobe that blends work, travel, and leisure. Tailoring takes on a softer, lighter feel, featuring unstructured jackets and relaxed suits. Utility and leisure pieces expand the collection with overshirts, safari jackets, and denim in new shades. Knitwear and shirts round out the collection with a palette inspired by earth tones.

FLUID CODES

Kiton continues its exploration of the men’s wardrobe by striking a balance between a sporty spirit and modern tailoring. The collection features relaxed silhouettes, ultra-lightweight materials, and a color palette inspired by the warm tones of spices. Created by Mariano and Walter De Matteis, this line reaffirms the brand’s reputation as a space for experimentation.

FROM FORMAL TO CASUAL

Daniele Alessandrini creates a versatile wardrobe that suits every moment of the season, from formal occasions to leisure time. Suits, denim, and linen and cotton garments come together through clean lines, lightweight materials, and a palette of natural tones. The collection is rounded out by the new Tecnico Travel line, designed for those seeking practicality and comfort in everyday life.

TRA CITTÀ E MARE

L’Impermeabile mette al centro l’outerwear come linguaggio di memoria e funzione, tra immaginario italiano e ricerca sui materiali. GREY e BLU LABEL ridisegnano il guardaroba tra urbano, workwear e mondo marino, con tessuti esclusivi e costruzioni leggere.

Murphy&Nye rilancia il suo universo sailing tra heritage nautico e ricerca tecnica, con una visione che attraversa mare e città. Le linee “Chicago” e “MN33 Functional” reinterpretano archivio e performance in chiave contemporanea, tra outerwear, workwear e capi tecnici. Footwear Vibram e il progetto “Sailmaker” completano la proposta con accessori e calzature.

WIND & LIGHT

With “SUMMER ON YOU,” Impulso envisions a summer on the open sea, filled with sailing and bright sunlight, where the wardrobe moves to the rhythm of the wind and motion. Polo shirts, T-shirts, knitwear, and swimwear form a summer palette of color contrasts, ranging from deep blue to neon accents, all the way to warmer, Mediterranean hues.

YELLOW FRESH

Giannetto Portofino’s summer wardrobe is minimalist and lightweight, featuring oversized shirts, loose-fitting shorts, and stripes in a variety of styles.

RIVIERA MOOD

North Sails explores two complementary themes: Archive and Côte d’Azur, blending sporting heritage with Mediterranean imagery. A reinterpretation of the brand’s 35-year history, featuring iconic pieces updated with a sustainable twist, combining heritage graphics with a lived-in aesthetic.

NEW SPACES

Bellwood places knitwear at the heart of the wardrobe, transforming it into a realm of form and storytelling. The fabrics come to life through intricate textures and graphic patterns. Alongside the collection, Bellwood Pulse offers a more contemporary and fashion-forward take.

IMPERFECT BALANCE

Chapter III / Asymmetry marks Born Outside’s first step beyond the sneaker universe with the arrival of Linea, the brand’s first loafer. The collection is built around the idea of imperfection as its guiding principle. Alongside Linea, new footwear styles and hybrids expand the brand’s aesthetic.

NEW LEGEND

Lotto Leggenda offers a fresh take on the brand’s sporting heritage through a contemporary lens, where archival elements and urban sensibilities come together in a new product language. At the heart of the collection are the Autograph Legend and Losanga ’76 PRT, two models that reinterpret historical codes with graphic details and distinctive material accents.

HERITAGE ON THE MOVE

From its roots in shirtmaking to a contemporary total look: Alley Docks evolves without losing its identity. Sophisticated fabrics, modern details, and an authentic attitude define a practical and versatile style. Because heritage doesn’t look to the past it lives in the present, every day.

SEA TO CITY

Roy Roger’s and Australian are rewriting the rules of the game, transforming tennis into an everyday language of attitude and freedom. From iconic denim to the retro energy of the ’80s, the capsule collection becomes an open field. It is a shared victory of aesthetics and cultures: an “ace” of Italian creativity that takes the movement off the court and transforms it into a lifestyle.

SOFT ATHLETIC

Gran Sasso interprets the Spring–Summer 2027 season as a refined journey blending sport and style, where knitwear becomes a language of confident elegance. Inspired by the codes of tennis and a sophisticated leisure aesthetic, the collection combines technical comfort with a fresh take on contemporary menswear.

LOOK AGAIN

Eyepetizer was born as a free and luminous perspective on the world, where color becomes a recognizable language. The brand interprets eyewear as a personalitydriven accessory with a simple aesthetic. An invitation to view reality with a touch of humor, energy, and a new visual intensity.

TRACK CRUCIAL

Doria 1905 has its roots in the tradition of handmade tailoring. Flat caps, trilbies, and fedoras are transformed into modern accessories, reimagined with creative rigor and refined taste. With SS 27 “DORIA TERRAE,” the brand combines Italian DNA, tactile exploration, and understated innovation.

SPORT IS A PLEASURE

Born from the vision of Leonardo Servadio in 1959, Ellesse breaks down the boundaries between sportswear and Italian tailoring, giving shape to a new language of athletic style. More than just fashion, the brand revives a spirit: one where movement is a pleasure and every moment becomes an experience to be savored to the fullest.

There is a place suspended between land and sea, where time intertwines like a salty rope and memory continues to stretch toward the horizon. From this image emerges Daniele Fiesoli’s new Men’s collection for SS 27, inspired by the Abruzzo trabucco. It takes shape as a contemplative journey through lightweight linens, merino, cottons, and cashmere.

D.A.T.E. continues its exploration of the dialogue between form and substance with TEXTURA. Featuring raw canvas and premium leathers, where imperfection becomes a design detail. The color palette ranges from sand and clay to mineral tones, punctuated by flashes of magenta and deep blue. RETRÒ previews the season’s vision with a minimalist sneaker.

A WARDROBE PRAGMATIC

The Bomboogie SS 27 collection is rooted in a vision of practicality and authenticity. A pragmatic and functional wardrobe where versatility, comfort, and durability define a subtle sophistication. Spanning casual, workwear, and technical outerwear, the line strikes an inter-seasonal balance, centered on outerwear characterized by a new structured lightness and high performance.

DESIGN IN MOTION

The new BOGNER outerwear collection combines aesthetic design with high-performance materials. These functional outerwear pieces perform just as well on the golf course as they do in the city, bringing a contemporary elegance to urban life.

TRAVELLING LIGHT

Tombolini redefines the concept of travel, transforming it from mere movement into an inner journey. At the heart of the collection lies the principle of lightness. With ultra-light tailoring, luxurious materials, and technical innovation, Zero Gravity effortlessly accompanies every movement, from business travel to moments of escape.

SPRING ATTITUDE

The Sring polo shirt by Gallia Knit Project reinterprets mercerized Scottish piqué in a sporty yet sophisticated style. Tubular details and contrasting two-tone stripes on the collar and sleeves evoke the aesthetic of 1970s polo shirts.

ICONA REIMAGINED

The Aliseo Blouson by Paul & Shark is a hybrid piece that combines outerwear and knitwear. Crafted from Aqualeather, a water-repellent leather with a soft, lightweight feel. The color palette has also been updated: classic blue gives way to a rich Sienna brown, accented with powder-toned trim.

80 YEARS OF STYLE

From the iconic penny loafer to a full range of footwear and apparel, Sebago celebrates 80 years of history while remaining true to the values that have shaped its identity. The brand is turning its anniversary into a journey featuring capsule collections, storytelling, and international activations. A journey that looks to its origins to continue sailing toward the future, without losing its authenticity.

URBAN SHIELDS

Saraghina reimagines eyewear with a bold, contemporary aesthetic, where every model becomes a style statement. The Leon frame plays with vintage geometries and rectangular shapes, featuring structured, bold temples and contrasting yellow lenses that evoke a distinctly 1970s style.

Gabriele Pasini’s summer collection makes its mark with fluid silhouettes and workwear influences that redefine the wardrobe through oversized cuts and new sartorial freedoms. Textured fabrics and techniques such as BoroSashiko transform imperfection into an aesthetic language.

Scaglione interprets the summer season through premium materials and a modern take on the wardrobe. Super-twisted cotton, linen, and exclusive blends define versatile, lightweight pieces designed to accompany you throughout the day. Pleats become the season’s signature feature.

20 YEARS OF CREATIVITY

BOB celebrates its 20th anniversary with a collection that naturally evolves the brand’s DNA, keeping quality and charisma at the forefront. The collection features cotton, denim, seersucker, and crinkle cotton, as well as creative knitwear. The inspiration harks back to the first polo shirt from 2006, reimagined through authentic materials and earthy tones.

Soldini80 redefines the concept of the sneaker through a vision that blends innovation and comfort. Premium materials, new and deconstructed technical constructions, and lightweight silhouettes come together to create a hybrid collection that bridges the worlds of sports and lifestyle. A contemporary collection that reimagines the shoe as an evolving object.

BEYOND THE HORIZON

“The Big Blue” inspires Doucal’s. The SS 27 collection is guided by the “Made with Kindness” philosophy and the introduction of superflex soles. The star of the collection is the Stresa, a lightweight and flexible loafer that combines Flex Blake construction, artisanal weaving, and a color palette ranging from deep blues to earth tones with accents of light.

ESSENTIAL BLUE

In the sophisticated and contemporary world of Lardini, a slim-fit double-breasted jacket in blue pinstripe wool defines the look. The silk-effect striped shirt adds a touch of lightness, while the wool flare pants introduce movement. The silk regimental tie and black calfskin loafers complete the ensemble with balance.

LIVED EXPERIENCES

A journey along ancient paths between the sea and the mountains inspires the SS 27 AVANT TOI collection, where every garment seems to hold a memory in motion. Landscapes, salty winds, and Mediterranean scrub are transformed into textured surfaces, featuring linen, cashmere, and hand-woven fabrics.

GREAT OUTDOOR

Woolrich’s SS 27 collection reinterprets outdoor wear with a minimalist, contemporary aesthetic, where performance and style coexist seamlessly. The collection strips away the superfluous and establishes a clean, streamlined design language, crafted to help you experience the outdoors with ease and precision.

FUNCTIONALITY IS THE KEY

Aquascutum Active SS 27 reimagines technical and urban outerwear, where functionality takes center stage in the design. It introduces new materials and solutions for greater comfort and versatility, creating a fluid and adaptable wardrobe. A women’s capsule collection also makes its debut.

THE LIGHTNESS OF SIMPLICITY

A perfect balance between minimalist design and practical functionality defines DUNO’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection. The TIMELESS, CONTEMPORARY, ATTIC, and CODE lines embody an essential, international vision that blends iconic styles, innovation, and urban elegance in technical and Italian fabrics.

VINTAGE REBORN

The Benci Brothers’ Re.Love program refurbishes used Scrambler sneakers, restoring their quality and original look. The shoes are cleaned, repaired, and refurbished while preserving their vintage calfskin style. They are then resold “as new” or exchanged for new pairs at a discount.

AMERICA ICON

The Classic Moc 8838 reimagines one of Red Wing’s iconic models in the new Sandstone Mohave Roughout leather, while preserving the authentic character of the 1952 original. Traction Tred, Puritan stitching, and Goodyear Welt construction ensure a silhouette built to last.

A LEGACY THAT CONTINUES TO EVOLVE

Tela Genova creates a quiet elegance rooted in materials, function, and a cohesive identity, where every detail speaks for itself. The SS 27 collection marks the brand’s evolution toward a more mature European heritage, moving away from its country roots and embracing a sophisticated simplicity.

SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY

Jeanne Baret, part of the F.lli Campagnolo group, reinterprets premium sportswear with a feminine, dynamic, and contemporary vision. Inspired by the explorer of the same name, Jeanne Baret, the brand evokes courage, freedom, and a spirit of adventure. The SS 27 collection is designed for an active, self-aware woman who approaches every day as a new discovery.

URBAN UTILITY EVOLUTION

BLAUER’s B.DEPARTMENT capsule collection reinterprets military and nautical styles with a contemporary twist, emphasizing structure and functionality in a masculine aesthetic. It offers a versatile urban wardrobe that blends workwear and nautical influences, featuring technical fabrics and sailing apparel made from high-performance materials.

WHERE STYLE MEETS THE WATER

By the pool, just as at the seaside, the swimsuit becomes a symbol—no longer just an item of clothing. In the reflection of the water, a new vision takes shape, where style, escapism, and identity define the contemporary language of men’s beachwear by Valeria Oneto and Micaela Panzini

BOUNDLESS TRAVEL

Travel is a fundamental human impulse. To discover, to grow, to transcend one’s own boundaries even while staying put. It is not an escape, but a continuous search for experiences and images capable of nourishing the mind and spirit. For Leonardo Girombelli, the mastermind behind the project, ESCAPISTA is the joint realization of a love for travel and a family heritage that has always been linked to fashion.

SEASON CAMP MEMORY

MOSSO Sunwear reimagines Mediterranean summers through a visual language inspired by outdoor living, vintage sportswear, and weathered textures. With artisanal textures, faded patterns, and camping-inspired graphics, the collection creates a relaxed aesthetic that blends functionality and leisure. Swimwear, resort wear, and shirts come together in a fluid, modern wardrobe.

CALIFORNIA RENEWED

Sundek presents its SS 27 collection, bringing its Californian roots back to the forefront and offering a fresh take on the brand’s heritage. Drawing inspiration from the 1958 Rainbow boardshorts, the collection blends surf culture with a sunbleached aesthetic inspired by the 1960s. Between Goldenwave and Original, the brand reinterprets its DNA with relaxed silhouettes, muted colors, and minimalist beachwear.

PLAY WITHOUT RULES

Psycho Bunny presents its global vi sion of premium menswear, blending a disruptive spirit with an uncom promising attitude. Vibrant colors, innovative textures, and reinterpre tations of the iconic logo define a playful season.

ITALIAN SUMMER CODE

RIPA RIPA reimagines contemporary summerwear inspired by 1960s Italy and Mediterranean aesthetics. Founded in Milan, the brand reinterprets the Italian summer. It upholds the value of Made in Italy, with production in Portici, Naples. Born from tailored swimwear, the brand now expands its range with a complete summer wardrobe featuring lightweight jackets, pants, shirts, and linen polo shirts.

NEW PATTERNS

Gandhara is expanding its Made in Italy fashion universe by introducing new designs that refresh the “Palladio,” “Via della Seta,” and “Giappone” collections. The beachwear line evolves with new apparel pieces, including button-down sweatshirts with high necks or in sleeveless versions, and a windbreaker jacket. The brand also debuts its first women’s beachwear and men’s swim briefs.

ECO BEACH ESSENTIALS

Nort Beachwear reinterprets swimwear and leisurewear with a sustainable and contemporary vision, rooted in the colors and atmosphere of the Costa Smeralda. Ultra-lightweight fabrics, 100% recycled materials, and production entirely made in Italy define an ethical and functional approach to beachwear. The color palette is inspired by nature, and the designs are adaptable to every body shape.

REFINED EASE

Corso Mille reinterprets the elegance of the contemporary gentleman, blending attitude with self-confidence. Technical yet elegant outerwear, polo shirts, T-shirts, and Bermuda shorts, along with the iconic beach shorts, define a dynamic wardrobe. Crafted from refined fabrics, blends of wool and high-performance fibers, waterproof materials, and eco-friendly solutions.

SALT &

SUN

Inspired by the laid-back spirit of the Australian coast, Franks offers swimwear with clean, minimalist designs. Created for those who live life at the sun’s pace from Sydney to the Amalfi Coast these pieces accompany every journey with natural ease and understated style, wherever summer takes you.

TROPÉZIENNE STYLE

Founded in 1991 in the south of France by the Azoulay brothers, Europann offers swimwear and ready-to-wear clothing for men and children. The brand embodies an elegant and casual “Côte d’Azur” style, inspired by the sea, travel, and seaside vacations. Crafted from cotton, highquality linen, and Italian fabrics, the garments combine natural comfort with refined taste, in the spirit of the Saint-Tropez style.

RIVIERA SWIM

Since 1968, Gerry St Tropez has been redefining swimwear with creativity and impeccable fit. Each piece is handcrafted to be unique, with meticulous attention to every detail. Lightweight, quick-drying fabrics bring a timeless summer style to life.

ITALIAN GOOD TIME

Original Penguin reinterprets Italian elegance with a fresh perspective, inspired by the carefree spirit of the 1950s and the charm of the Mediterranean. The collection spans the coast and the inland regions, featuring sunny color palettes, graphic prints, and lightweight textures.

A SUMMER STATE OF MIND COAST OF CARE

Peninsula reinterprets Mediterranean authenticity with a modern twist, blending quality and responsibility. A sophisticated and relaxed lifestyle, inspired by the slow pace of summer, nature, and Italian design. Collections that are 100% made in Italy, crafted from low-impact materials and BCorp certified, where aesthetics and sustainability coexist in harmonious balance.

Riviera by Alley Docks embodies a timeless vision of summer, where elegance and lightness come together between the sea and the city. A minimalist, contemporary collection that transforms simplicity into a relaxed lifestyle, designed to last beyond the season.

CHANGING THE RULES OF THE GAME

Do collaborations still work? Some people are reimagining them in a new way

by Marco Rizzi

Collaborations have always been a cornerstone of the sneaker world a tangible way to highlight and celebrate the cross-cultural influences that have shaped this culture. A concept best summed up by “respect is mutual,” the slogan of the first collection that saw A Bathing Ape and adidas join forces 25 years ago, demonstrating how it was the contribution of every party involved that gave value to a project. Over time, the release schedule has become increasingly packed, the sneaker market has become saturated, and even a “ritual” like that of collaborations has lost its value. All too often, these joint projects turned out to be driven by short-sighted visions, misreadings of trends, or the simple desire to involve this brand or that artist before a competitor could. That mechanism of mutual respect eventually broke down, along with the balance within the collaborations: they often failed to fairly represent all parties involved, creating a disconnect with the audience for whom they were created. For the sportswear industry, working with giant names imposed a sort of subservience, dictated by the need to please the star of the moment in order to capture their audience, hoping for strong sales on the shelves. With emerging brands and smaller names,

however, the opposite situation arose, with significant creative limitations for the partners involved, who were often asked for blind gratitude rather than a fresh, original perspective. Over the past two years, some have sought to “break the system,” changing the rules of collaborations to, paradoxically, bring them back to their original form. A prime example is Vans, which carefully observed what was happening outside its design offices to better understand which direction to take. The work of designers and custom artists like Mattias Gollin and Metagirl Studio has undoubtedly influenced the company, which, instead of hitting them with a “cease and desist” letter as some other industry giants might have done, sought to understand which aspect of their work was key to revitalizing a product that was in danger of becoming stale. The Californian brand chose to support them by providing materials, then a communication platform, and finally laying the groundwork for a long-term collaborative relationship. Both artists mentioned began by releasing their creations in extremely limited editions, eventually moving on to work on official projects where they had a direct say in the creative process, if not being directly involved in the manufacturing of the sneakers. Other brands are also trying to follow this “old school” path, such as adidas, which in 2024 and 2025 resumed producing limited-edition projects, entrusting distribution directly to its collaborators: Concept Kicks, Hartcopy, and Larry June are just a few of the names that have demonstrated how, at times, taking things step by step is the secret to keeping a project’s credibility alive, not alienating the original fan base, and ultimately attracting the attention of a wider audience. Could the secret to reviving collaborations be to try going back to the roots?

Top: the exclusive adidas Adistar Control 5 x Larry June. Bottom: the Vans Old Skool 36 reimagined by Metagirl Studio

SEAN WOTHERSPOON JOINS THE KLEKT TEAM

KLEKT, a German sneaker buying and selling platform, has announced the appointment of Sean Wotherspoon as its new chief community curator. The American designer, best known for his role at Round Two and his numerous projects with major brands in the industry, will bring his expertise to KLEKT with the goal of building a community that is increasingly connected to enthusiasts and collectors in Europe and around the world. Wotherspoon will primarily focus on special projects and collaborations and will represent KLEKT at various events, helping to expand the platform’s role beyond simple reselling and contributing to its evolution into a cultural hub that unites fashion, music, and sneakers under a single identity.

A NEW CHIEF OF INNOVATION FOR NIKE

Nike has appointed Andy Caine as its new chief innovation officer, a role in which he will be responsible for leading new product development and accelerating the integration of digital innovation across the company’s various departments. The appointment marks another step in the company’s recent strategy, which has seen a return to a focus on performance and its resulting influence on lifestyle collections. According to initial reports, the new direction is expected to prioritize sustainability and the development of innovative products, as well as strengthening the connection between athletic performance and contemporary culture.

STEPH CURRY TAKES CENTER STAGE WITH SOTHEBY’S

The renowned auction house Sotheby’s and Golden State Warriors star Steph Curry have joined forces to present an exclusive charity auction. Right at the start of the NBA season, Curry surprised many by ending his sponsorship deal with Under Armour, for which he was one of the main faces even off the court. Now free from contractual obligations, he decided to wear various brands and exclusive models, paying tribute to former teammates and other sports stars. The collection, once autographed, made up the auction catalog, raising $1.7 million, all of which was donated to the Eat. Learn. Play. Foundation, run by Curry and his wife Ayesha.

PALACE OPENS ITS FIRST STORE IN SHANGHAI

Palace continues its international expansion, having recently opened a new store in Shanghai, its eighth standalone store in Asia. Following London, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo, the opening in the Chinese metropolis represents a strategic step in the brand’s global growth and underscores the importance of the Asian market for the London-based brand, which will also play a leading role in the upcoming World Cup in support of the English national team at Nike’s invitation. To celebrate the opening, the brand has launched an exclusive collection dedicated to the new store, along with a packed calendar of events designed to engage the local community.

IS RIHANNA READY TO LEAVE PUMA?

According to increasingly persistent rumors, the partnership between Rihanna and Puma may be nearing its end, following years of success that have redefined the relationship between sportswear and contemporary fashion. Since her debut with the launch of the Fenty line, the Barbadian artist has played a pivotal role not only in repositioning Puma in the sneaker market but also in redefining women’s roles in the industry through iconic silhouettes and campaigns that resonate with new generations. Despite the collaboration’s return in 2023 following an initial hiatus and the contract that also ties her husband A$AP Rocky to the German brand rumors suggest a possible change of direction for both parties.

A THIRD NEW BALANCE 1890 FOR ACTION BRONSON

The collaboration between New Balance and Action Bronson continues, with the New York rapper and chef celebrating the release of his latest album, “Planet Frog,” with the launch of a third colorway of his 1890 sneakers. The shoes are part of a broader collection designed to accompany the launch of the artist’s latest creative project, which also includes various clothing items and a pair of custom Oakley sunglasses, all launched exclusively on the Specializing Life e-commerce site. Bronson himself was the first to work on the New Balance 1890, a lifestyle-inspired reissue of the 2000s 890 model, which has since been released in various colors reminiscent of the original versions, as well as in two limited editions by Stone Island.

THE CLASSIC REEBOK BOARDFLIP IS BACK

The Boardflip represents a very unique period in Reebok’s history: it’s a 2000s skate shoe with a chunky silhouette, loosely inspired by the running and cross-training models that made the Bolton-based brand famous in the 1980s. Designed as a “signature model” for Ice Cream, the skate brand founded by Pharrell Williams, it quickly became a favorite among collectors for its bold colorways worn by legendary skaters like Stevie Williams. For 20 years, it remained a rarity, the dream of many collectors and enthusiasts; last fall, Reebok unveiled the first reissue of the Boardflip at ComplexCon in Long Beach at a booth curated by American rapper Don Tolliver, and in recent weeks, the first two original colorways have returned to the shelves of top sneaker stores worldwide.

JORDAN AND NIGEL SYLVESTER

HERE ARE THE “BIKE AIR” MODELS BY

After a very long wait, the second version of the Air Jordan 4 Retro “Brick after Brick” is finally available. This collaborative edition of the iconic late-’80s model was created for Nigel Sylvester, the renowned BMX rider and Jumpmansponsored athlete. Unlike the first release, which was entirely brick red, this second colorway, with a white base, draws inspiration from the color schemes of the model’s very first editions, such as the “Fire Red” worn by Michael Jordan during the early part of his career with the Chicago Bulls, while retaining personalized details like the textured finish of the materials and the miniSwoosh embroidered on the toe of the shoe. The first “Brick by Brick” proved to be a massive success, one of Air Jordan’s best sellers for 2025, and was ultimately voted “Sneaker of the Year” by the editorial staff at Complex. We’ll just have to wait and see if the second edition can replicate these results.

THE DOORS OPEN TO THE VIRGIL ABLOH ARCHIVES

All that was missing was the official announcement: Air Jordan and the Virgil Abloh Foundation are set to re-release one of the three colorways of the nowlegendary Air Jordan 1 Retro designed by the American designer. The chosen version is the “Alaska,” the new name for the “NRG” released in 2018, and it will be offered as a limited edition collaboration between “Jumpman” and Virgil Abloh Archives. The most observant had already sensed a possible comeback last October during “The Codes” exhibition held at the Grand Palais in Paris. We’ll have to wait and see whether VAA will focus solely on bringing Abloh’s old creations back to the shelves or whether it will also sign on for new projects.

MINTED AND SAUCONY: FROM LIFESTYLE TO MARATHON

Minted is a New York-based brand founded by brothers Marcus and Shawn Milione. It started as a small jewelry label and has since become one of the most aesthetically influential running brands in recent years. Now on their third collaborative project with Saucony, they decided to create a custom colorway of the Endorphin Pro 5, the flagship model in the American brand’s running catalog. The shoe is made entirely of silver mesh, with only the lettering and accents in electric blue, almost as if the previous collaboration an all-blue Endorphin Speed 4 had been dipped in chrome paint. The collaboration was launched exclusively by Minted, with an early release hosted by the Saucony store in Covent Garden, London.

JW ANDERSON MAKES HIS DEBUT WITH DIADORA

The landscape of collaborations between sportswear and fashion is enriched by a new project with the launch of the partnership between Diadora and JW Anderson.

The Northern Irish designer had the opportunity to draw from the archives of the historic Venetian brand, choosing the Equipe a 1970s model modified and customized for the occasion—as the basis for his first collaboration. Anderson worked not only with colors, textures, and materials, but also by modifying the shoe’s lines, adding eyelets and double laces, and emphasizing the wrap-around construction of the sole. The collection consists of four different colorways crafted from nylon and suede, available online and at a select list of stores worldwide for €390.

EARLS HONORS ITS ROOTS WITH ASICS

It has been nearly two years since the launch OF The Asics GT-2160 “Nagāwari” from the Earls Collection, a release that has, over time, become something of a symbol of the excellent work carried out in recent years by THE Asia-Pacific division of Asics Sportstyle. Earls, a New Zealand streetwear brand founded by Lewi Brown that is committed to integrating aesthetic elements of Māori culture into its collections, has recently released a second coLLABOrative project with Asics: this time, the chosen model is the GEL-Cumulus 16, a 2000s-era running shoe for which he opted to use a distinctive woven material previously seen in the earlier collaboration. The same color scheme, featuring an ecru base with brown and orange details, was also used for the Testimonial 4, a rugby boot that Brown chose to include in the collection to highlight the connection between sports and his homeland.

ALEALI MAY AND CLARKS ORIGINALS STILL TOGETHER

Aleali May, an American designer and member of the collective that grew out of the Chicago store RSVP Studio which also included Don C and the late Virgil Abloh—has recently unveiled her new collaboration with Clarks Originals. It features two limited-edition colorways of the classic Wallabee Low, in which the suede traditionally used for the upper is replaced by a complex patchwork of corduroy, giving the shoe a unique look. A unique take on the Wallabee, this version blends British tradition, the aesthetic of a Jamaican cultural classic, and elements inspired by vintage and Los Angeles streetwear. Both colors, “grey combi” and “beige combi,” are already available at major Clarks Originals retailers.

FEID AND SALOMON EXPAND THEIR CIRCLE OF FRIENDS

Sneaker collectors know that there are some models that, quite simply, cannot be bought. Until a few weeks ago, this was also the case for the Salomon XT-4 OG “Ferxxocalipsis,” a promotional edition of the now-classic trail running model created by the French brand for Colombian singer Feid: just 100 pairs in a neverbefore-seen colorway featuring a green base and orange details, intended for the artist’s friends and family. After working on a second collaboration featuring the XT-Whisper this time intended for mass retail Salomon and Feid made a surprise announcement in early May that the promo version of the XT-4 would soon be available: a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that enthusiasts didn’t let slip by, quickly leading to the shoe selling out.

OFFSPRING UNVEILS THE NEW ZX8000

For over 20 years now, the London-based retailer Offspring has been one of the leading names in adidas Originals’ exclusive Consortium program a strong partnership that has treated enthusiasts and collectors to some of the most exclusive and highly sought-after collaborations seen on European shelves. After celebrating the culture of collaborative sneakers with a ZX8000 created in partnership with Japan’s Mita, Offspring set out to create its own version of the model, released exclusively online and at the British retailer’s various stores. The release was preceded by a series of interviews and social media content featuring members of the store’s community and adidas collectors who helped highlight the cultural significance and impact of the ZX8000 on the scene spanning the late ’80s and early ’90s.

FASHION, STORIES, AND “RAGS”

For many, it has been the big trend of recent years, but for Pezze, true vintage is, first and foremost, a culture by

Marco Rizzi

In recent years, Milan has changed significantly, thanks to a new generation of spaces, shops, and personalities who are each trying in their own way to carry on the legacy of those who made the Lombard capital a truly international city. During the latest Design Week, Pezze Vintage opened its doors just a few steps from the Colonne di San Lorenzo. After various ventures, the brand chose Milan following stints in London and Naples. We spoke with the founder, Gennaro Boccia.

Pezze had already been active in Milan with pop-up shops and other major collaborative projects what made you realize it was the right time to open your own store?

In fact, through Pezze, we had already had the opportunity to test the waters in Milan, through pop-ups and our collaboration with Slam Jam, with whom we continue to offer a hand-picked selection that reflects both our aesthetic philosophy and theirs. These past experiences allowed us to better understand and absorb the spirit of the city over time, but it still wasn’t enough to open a store on our own. In fact, we needed to find the right place at the right time, and Via di Gian Giacomo Mora the nerve center of Milan’s vintage district was not only the location we’d been aiming for but also the most familiar, since we’d already held several pop-ups there.

Pezze’s journey began in London nearly ten years ago, an experience that has made you known around the world. Do you think the international audience has a different perspective on vintage fashion compared to the Italian one?

Back then in England, there was and still is a much deeper understanding of vintage fashion, both among industry professionals and among buyers and enthusiasts. When I arrived in London in 2011, vintage was already a well-understood and established world, bolstered by key figures and pioneers such as Nigel Cabourn, who turned secondhand and vintage into a genuine field of study. All the major aesthetic trends such as workwear and militaria that now populate the selections of Italian stores originated in the UK, where a group of pioneers began researching and acquiring these items years before we

did. I believe it is precisely this temporal factor that clearly distinguishes British or, more generally, international vintage culture from the Italian one. The international customer is, in fact, more “educated” about second-hand clothing; they understand its value and uniqueness, which also lie in the flaws that the garment may have developed over time. In contrast, in Italy, vintage has only recently become a widespread phenomenon, and customers have not yet adapted to the philosophy behind it. I still encounter customers who expect to pay less for a missing button or a loose thread, applying a negative judgment to the notion of “used.” It is still difficult to grasp the quality of vintage items, and how a second-hand selection can offer details, construction, and materials that are impossible to replicate today with the same purchasing power.

Did you create a special offering for the grand opening of the store on Via Mora? How do you select products in these situations?

As with any boutique, I follow my own philosophy of sourcing and curation, which could be summed up as eclecticism. At Pezze, we love everything as long as it’s beautiful and on-trend. Military, workwear, vintage, unbranded, designer, ’70s, ’80s, or ’90s Pezze offers a wide yet curated range of clothing and accessories that reflect the spirit of the business and resonate with the city’s identity. For each category, we seek out that special piece, whether it’s a pair of Levi’s with a unique fade or a batwing leather jacket. It’s no coincidence that the selection process is extremely complicated, even if it’s not always easy to understand, and just as complicated is deciding which of the three boutiques in London, Naples, and Milan is the best fit for the selected piece. Arriving at a selection of 100 pieces therefore means discarding a huge number of them and then dividing them among the three locations to offer the best possible assortment. In Milan, I wanted to give it a paradoxically more international feel compared to London, where I focus more on Made in Italy. I thus focused on an idea of coolness born from contrast: in the Milan boutique, men’s suits are paired with a Gucci runway piece, in a play of juxtapositions that perfectly reflects the spirit of the city and aligns well with the direction fashion has taken lately.

You can find the full interview on hubstyle.it

Gennaro Boccia, founder

The new Pezze Vintage by Via Mora in Milan

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