BoardSport Source, Issue 97, June / July 2019 English

BLACK SHEEP STORE ENGLAND INGREDIENT BRANDS ON ECO SURGE

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDES BOARDSHORTS, SWIMWEAR, SKATE FOOTWEAR, HYDRO FOILS, SKATE HELMETS & PROTECTION, THE GREAT OUTDOORS, HANGING SHOES, MEN’S & WOMEN’S STREETWEAR, SURF SKATES

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HELLO

SOURCE#97 The summer trade show season isn’t what it used to be for action sports brands with the events sector undergoing huge upheaval in recent years as it’s come to terms with brands’ continuous search for improving ROI. The shows still provide unique services - nothing beats establishing a new client relationship faceto-face, and what better way to properly gauge a sector than reviewing it all in one location - but change is in the wind and this summer is a clear indication of that. In surf, regional demo shows (Surf Demo Days, Rock On Surf + Surf Out Portugal) are beginning to make their mark, providing a cost effective way for brands to allow consumers to test their products and organisers are hoping that these will evolve into combined b2b and b2c events.

The new big summer player is OutDoor by ISPO, in many ways a reincarnation of the Summer ISPO of old but with added digital services. Even though the primary focus of the show is currently outdoor, this show is well positioned to become a focus for action sports brands for the summer season. Particularly since the demise of Berlin-based Bright trade show, which means skateboarding no longer has a trade show home for summer. Conversely for clothing brands the options have become myriad with Jacket Required, Pitti, Seek, Panorama, Revolver, The Mill to name but a few. In this, our 97th issue, we visit North Western England for both our retailer profile and front cover. Black Sheep store are one of Europe’s most legitimate skate stores, having won Vans’ coveted Shop Riot series twice thanks to an insane crop of skaters. Shop Co-Founder Terence “Tez” Robinson scores this issue’s front cover with a shot by former Sidewalk honcho, Andrew

Horsley. Sticking with skate we speak to Sole Tech’s Bas Janssen for this issue’s Big Wig to hear about their cross-brand strategy in Europe and we also preview SS20 trends in skate shoes, protection & helmets and streetwear plus a look at the burgeoning surf skate category. Elsewhere we look at SS20 trends in outdoor, boardshorts, swimwear, foiling and we take our first look at ingredient brands to see how these companies are driving the innovations we see in sustainable brand materials. So while its seems all very transitional, in 12 months time we’ll have a better picture of the winning and losing trends. But fear not, SOURCE will be there to report from the trenches. 18 years and counting, always here to help the industry find a path. Always Sideways Clive Ripley + Harry MT Publisher + Editor

CONTENT P.10 - News

P.39 - Women’s Streetwear SS20

P.65 - Brand Update: Roam

P.13 - Tradeshow Previews

P.42 - Big Wig: Sole Tech’s Bas Janssen

P.67 - Brand Profile: Primitive

P.17 - Skate Footwear SS20

P.45 - Women’s Swimwear SS20

P.21 - Retailer Profile: Black Sheep

P.49 - Hydro Foiling

P.23 - Boardshorts SS20

P.51 - Men’s Streetwear SS20

P.29 - The Great Outdoors SS20

p.55 - Surf Skate SS20

P.33 - Sustainability From Ingredient Brands

p.59 - Backpacks SS20

P.78 - Classifieds

P.37 - Skate Helmets & Protection SS20

P.63 - Hanging Shoes SS20

P.80 - Events

P.68 - New Products P.70 - Market Intelligence P.76 - One Eyed Monster

TEAM Editor Harry Mitchell Thompson harry@boardsportsource.com

German Editor Natalia Maruniak tala@boardsportsource.com

Skate Editor Dirk Vogel dirk@boardsportsource.com

French Editor Marie-Laure Ducos ducos@boardsportsource.com

Senior Snowboard Contributor Tom Wilson-North tom@boardsportsource.com

Graphic Design Adrien Ballanger ballanger@boardsportsource.com

Senior Surf Contributor David Bianic david@boardsportsource.com

Proofreaders Natalia Maruniak, Marie-Laure Ducos, Sam Grant

Contributors Jokin Arroyo, Benoît Brecq, Gordon Way, Fabien Grisel, Franz Holler, David Bianic, Ruth Cutts, Oliver Connelly, Andres Delgado, Emily Adderson, Sissy Herant, Dana Miskulnig

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Advertising & Marketing Clive Ripley clive@boardsportsource.com

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Boardsport SOURCE is published bi-monthly © ESB. All Rights Reserved

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On the cover

Black Sheep (Manchester)’s Tez Robinson, photo by Andrew Horsley

NEWS #97

BROOKFIELD TO BUY 62% OF OAKTREE CAPITAL MANAGEMENT Brookfield Asset Management will acquire about 62% of Billabong & Boardriders owner Oaktree Capital Management, and Brookfield could own 100% of the Oaktree business in 2029 based on liquidity schedule. The two companies together will have about $475 billion of assets under management and $2.5 billion of annual fee-related revenues. MILLIKEN BUYS TEXTILE EXPERT POLARTEC Functional textile expert Polartec has a new owner in Milliken. After twelve years as part of Versa Capital Management, the US company, which produces functional and outdoor textiles in particular, has now been acquired by South Carolina-based textile and chemical group Milliken & Company. LAUNCH OF ROCK ON SURF French event organiser Sportair Like That launched their first surf test event, the Rock On Surf at Anglet in SW France from May 29 – June 1, 2019. 20 brands from the surf, skate, wetsuit and accessories market offered product for testing by the public and 600 tests took place even though the weather left a lot to be desired. SHAUN NEFF, FOUNDER OF NEFF HEADWEAR LAUNCHES ORAL HYGIENE COMPANY Shaun Neff, founder of Neff Headwear has announced the launch of his Oral Hygiene company Moon. Neff and the Kardashian-Jenners previously collaborated on a promotion for Neff Headwear where Shaun and Kendall met, which has now lead to their collaboration with Kendall Jenner on Moon’s new teeth whitening pen. QUIKSILVER JOINS THE EUROPEAN OUTDOOR GROUP The European Outdoor Group has announced Quiksilver is their latest brand to join the association, having already signed the EOG Sustainability Charter, Quiksilver plans to support the EOG’s up and coming projects fully. SNOW & ROCK OWNER ANNOUNCES CVA IN ATTEMPT TO COMBAT FALLING PROFITS Outdoor & Cycle Concepts, the parent company to UK retailers Snow & Rock, Cycle Surgery, Runners Need and Cotswold Outdoor has launched a CVA proposal in an attempt to stop falling profits, according to statement released by the company. Outdoor & Cycle Concepts has drafted in Matthew Richards and Alistair Wardel from Grant Thornton LLP to run the CVA, where they are seeking to reduce rents across 50 stores, aiming to shut four unprofitable branches within three months and exit a further three stores immediately. Outdoor & Cycle Concepts recorded pre-tax losses of £13.7m in 2018. The retailer also wants to shift from quarterly to monthly rent across its remaining estate, as well exit the Republic of Ireland where it operates one store in Dublin. It is understood Outdoor & Cycle Concepts’ parent company AS Adventures will provide increased funding to the struggling retailer on the condition the CVA proposal is approved. 10

RIP CURL RESTRUCTURES LEADERSHIP IN EUROPE Rip Curl is making a leadership change in Europe, with longtime European CEO Wilco Prins to exit the company at the end of April. Matthieu Lefin, Rip Curl’s head of group operations who is based in Europe, will add President of Europe to his responsibilities. Rip Curl Group CEO Michael Daly explains that the restructuring is partly due to management consolidation and also challenges in the European market. “Matthieu has been with us for nearly 10 years now and has worked closely with Wilco for many years so we are expecting a smooth transition,” INTERNATIONAL BOARD SHOP DAY This year saw the first International Board Shop Day took place on May 18, 2019. The event, initiated by Building The Revolution, aims to bring tribute to independent board shops in honour of their vital role in the creation of surf, skate and snow subcultures. FALLEN FOOTWEAR AND CHRIS COLE REUNITE FOLLOWING THE BRAND’S RE-LAUNCH Following the announcement from Fallen Footwear on their relaunch in early February 2019, the brand is now proud to announce that they will be joining forces with one of their original team members, Chris Cole. With plans to re-launch some of Cole’s best selling items along with the launch of new signature pieces, this is exciting news for the team at Fallen. SURF DEMO DAYS TOUR Following the launch last summer, Surf Demo Days is now a 3 stop tour of SW France. The first stop of the Surf Demo Days took place in Lacanau as great weather ensured over 890 surfboard and wetsuit tests. The next stops are Hossegor on 21-23 June and La Torche for the 20-22 Sept. 42 brands are already are signed up for the Hossegor event. For more information on the next two stops go to www.surfdemodays.com or talk to organisers Alexis Maillet, Olivier Cuissot and Alan Riou. SNOW PEAK APPOINTS ALL CONDITIONS MEDIA FOR UK LAUNCH UK based Agency All Conditions Media have been chosen by Japanese outdoor brand Snow Peak to help with their forthcoming UK launch. They will be covering their PR and influencer marketing needs as well as the organisation of the brand’s first UK store opening. WSL ANNOUNCE NEW EFFORTS IN SUSTAINABILITY World Surf Leauge announced their plans for sustainability moving forward, by the end of 2019 they plan to eliminate single-serve plastics, becoming carbon neutral and pledging to leave each place better than it was found. GLASSING PORTUGAL ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP WITH SIMON ANDERSON SURFBOARDS Glassing Portugal announced their latest partnership with Simon Anderson Surfboards. The Portugal based surfboard manufacturer and supplier will now represent Simon as his European agent. STANCE LAUNCHES CHARITY WITH GRAYSTONE ACTION SPORTS INTRODUCING KIDS TO ACTION SPORTS STANCE has partnered with the UK’s first action sports academy to launch the Graystone Young Creative Programme, a charitable initiative that will introduce local schools to action sports through creative workshops with Stance ambassadors – photographers, artists and action sports athletes. The first workshop saw hyped skate artist Eloise Dorr illustrate socks with the school children before intro to skate lessons with the Graystone staff. Dorr left her mark on the UK’s 1st action sports centre with a mural in the stairwell, which will be the first thing people see on entering the centre. HKT TO DISTRIBUTE RED BULL SPECT EYEWEAR IN UK Red Bull partners with SPECT eyewear to produce a range of eyewear products for a range of sports with HKT Products distributing them in the UK.

S K ATEBO A D I N G’ S B EST K EPT SECR E T • Q1-2020 - SHIP P ING FR OM FEB 2020

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TRADE SHOWS PREVIEWS

OUTDOOR BY ISPO, MUNICH, GERMANY JUNE 30, JULY 3, 2019

OutDoor by ISPO is the first year-round, integrative and cross-media platform for a new outdoor movement. This is focused around the OutDoor by ISPO trade fair, a 365 day of the year information platform and Outdays an outdoor consumer event also in Munich. The first edition of the trade show has attracted over 950 international exhibitors, spread over nine halls in the eastern part of the trade fair grounds, under the motto, "There's a perfect outdoor for everyone". This reflects a more modern interpretation of outdoor as it is already lived by consumers, where classic outdoor activities have been modernized and transformed and additional related sports added to the traditional interpretation. The open-plan design of the halls with plenty of room for holding meetings will ensure that the whole event is a truly inspiring communications platform, with wide central aisles to help traffic flow. A real outdoor feeling will also be achieved in the outside area with direct access to the halls, the green atrium (functioning as a quiet zone during the day and a party area during the evening) and the camping and glamping site at the Riemer Park, which is directly adjacent to the exhibition grounds, offers spacious green areas and a lake for swimming after the visit to the fair. The range of sports and themes will create a highly diversified environment. The Indoor Climbing Hub located in hall A6 will focus specifically on climbing and bouldering which making climbing sports accessible to new target groups. Speakers from the international climbing scene will provide exclusive insights and identify opportunities for retailers and brands. The Borderlands, a curated exhibition space for urban outdoor fashion will be created in hall B4. These technical yet stylish products will be showcased together with design elements and photography to create an inspiring overall impression. At the River Lake Camp in hall C6, organized in conjunction with Paddleexpo, water sports enthusiasts will enjoy testing out the latest products in the large indoor pool. The program will also include various workshops, presentations and discussion forums. The Shoe & Trail running Village in hall A5 will present the latest technology, models, trends and designs from the world of footwear, socks and related accessories. This area will also play host to the Run & Trail Summit on Monday July 1st, in cooperation with the world’s largest running magazine Runner’s World. The travel segment, a new addition to the outdoor portfolio will have an Adventure, Tourism & Travel Summit in hall B6 which will unveil opportunities for collaborations between the travel industry and the outdoor industry and highlight the existing potential. Matchmaking will be at the heart of this program, the partners will be experts from the Adventure Travel Trade Association (ATTA). The Bikepacking Zone in hall C5 will tell you everything you need to know about the new Bikepacking movement and will have the ExtraEnergy Bike Test Track with its mixed surfaces and obstacles, the perfect place to test ride gravel bikes, mountain bikes and electric mountain bikes. The biggest bike textile producers on the market will also be showcasing their latest collections in hall B6. As an integral addition to the various outdoor

activities, daily yoga sessions will be held in four of the focus areas as part of the Body & Mind segment. Sustainability and CSR will also be a key focus as the outdoor sector already plays a leading role in raising awareness of these issues. The CSR Hub & Sustainability Kiosk located in hall B6 will be a central reference point with display cabinets showcasing biodegradable and bio-based materials. There will also be a diverse program of speeches and presentations packed with tips and inspirational ideas. The outdoor action will of course not be confined to the halls but will also be available in the outside area: the HangOut Area, designed as an interactive exhibition space, will be the perfect place to try out and test a wide variety of products. And don’t forget the official OutDoor by ISPO party with live music, starting at 18:00 on Tuesday in Atrium East. Alongside the trade show will be the launch of OutDays, a consumer festival of outdoor culture from June 29 - July 6 in Munich that will mix together end consumers, brands and retailers. Participants can expect exclusive workshops, meet & greets, try-outs, film screenings, presentations, prize draws and contests. A new awards scheme “The Outstanding Outdoor Awards” will be launched to celebrate the most innovative products with the winners featuring in Hall B5. OutDoor by ISPO’s new ticket model is particularly beneficial for sports traders. Retailers and wholesalers as well as distributors were able to get their day ticket at the early bird rate of 15 euros up to May 20. Afterwards, the tickets cost 17 euros. Other trade visitor groups such as product managers, designers, accessories manufacturers, suppliers or event agencies and sports facilities operators can purchase tickets from 75-79 euros. To help plan your visit use the OutDoor by ISPO app. Its personalized home screen provides an overview of relevant events and exhibitors as well as hall plans. The “Altogether to Munich” program is aimed specifically at international retailers. A country-specific online platform enables brands and distributors to invite their trading partners simply and efficiently at the click of a mouse, manage appointments, and network in the run-up to the trade fair. The program also includes guided retail tours of selected sports retailers in Munich. “Altogether to Munich” is currently available in six languages for sports retailers from Great Britain, Italy, Austria, Spain, Poland, Switzerland and Scandinavia. Messe München provides assistance for visitors when traveling to the trade fair and looking for accommodation with a visa service and hotel booking services, additionally Deutsche Bahn and Lufthansa offer special deals. The OutDoor by ISPO Camping Area will have plenty of space for visitors to sleep in their private caravan, camper van or tent or you can also hire camping accommodation on site. This is a great opportunity for boardsports shops to see under one roof a whole myriad of other sports that their consumers are probably already participants of. So if you’re looking for new product categories to sell to your existing client base then make sure you make the trip to Munich. It’s like the good old days all over again, only better… ispo.com/en/outdoor 13

TRADE S H OW S PREVIEWS

JACKET REQUIRED LONDON, ENGLAND JULY 24-25, 2019

Summer’s here so make the journey to the Old Truman Brewery to see brands exhibiting their spring/summer 2020 collections, as the show continues to be a key stop in the European men’s and women’s fashion trade calendar. The show offers buyers an inspiring, carefully edited international line-up of contemporary menswear, breakthrough talent, selected womenswear, footwear, accessories and lifestyle products, bringing together brands and buyers from across the UK, Ireland, and some 20 other countries. Being held in London, one of the most connected cities globally, and one of the world’s leading fashion hubs, Jacket Required is ideal for launching new products and collections to the market. Whilst buyers know London is ahead of the curve where fashion is concerned, they come to see what’s moving the market. 97.6% of visitors who responded to this winter’s post-show survey had purchasing responsibility and came to find new suppliers and place orders. And for overseas brands looking for access to the UK market Jacket Required provides a unique opportunity as it’s the only UK event of its kind. The floor layout was changed for the last show with only the two biggest rooms used for exhibiting whilst the smaller rooms in between were converted to walkways. This concentrated both brands and traffic into the two most usable spaces and on the first floor an extra aisle was added so that more brands could be carried. The shoulder high white walls introduced

SURF OUT PORTUGAL, CASCAIS, PORTUGAL, SEPTEMBER 21-22, 2019

The first edition of Surf Out Portugal was held on September 15-16, 2018 in Estoril, Cascais. The main goal of the show was to strengthen the surfing business as a whole and create a converged platform for the industry’s stakeholders. An event suited for both trade and the general public. Around 3,000 visitors attended the event and over 45 exhibitors showcased their best products from brands/services such as Billabong, Hurley, Magic Quiver, Lightning Bolt, Takeoff Surf Travel and many more. Additionally, close to 30 speakers were part of the event’s Surf Talks: a platform for dialogue and discussion where the most relevant topics were addressed regarding the status-quo and future of surfing. The topics ranged from the sport’s point of view to the business side of the industry. Surf Out Portugal was also an opportunity to promote some dynamic brand activations and meaningful interaction with the public as the venue provides a unique and special atmosphere perfect to mix business and pleasure: Red Bull had their athlete and former world tour competitor, Tiago Pires presenting his signature movie, Billabong showcased their new Adventure 14

last summer continued, as did the single entrance and exit, so visitors get to see all exhibitors as they moved around the show. Overall there was a much more intimate feel to the show as visitors congregated in the two rooms. Action sports brands will continue to be found around the show rather than be congregated in one place. A selection of legacy and new brands to look out for at the SS20 edition include, TOMS, Teva, Loreak, Hartford, Fjallraven, Santa Cruz Skateboards, Powell Peralta, Independent, Native North, Hummel, Chrome Industries, Alpha Industrials and Howies. And don’t forget the womenswear section that supports the growth of casual clothing and sophisticated streetwear for women. The ‘In Talks With’ series of key speaker and panel discussions will continue from the last show to provide insight into sustainability and corporate responsibility and to discuss the key issues facing the industry whilst giving industry leaders a platform from which to share knowledge with retailers, press and consumers about best practice. Opening hours are Wednesday 10am-7pm and Thursday 10am-5pm and if you’re driving to the show there are two car parks available within The Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane and Grey Eagle Street. Otherwise Shoreditch High Street, Liverpool Street Station, Aldgate East Station and Old Street Station are all within walking distance. So if you’re a retailer on the lookout for what’s hot in men’s and women’s wear you know where you need to be. See you in London. jacket-required.com

Division collection with the presence of French big wave rider Ben Sanchis and the Portuguese telecoms giant MEO had team rider and national hero Frederico Morais signing autographs in between world tour events. This year’s edition will focus on its international expansion with several guest speakers coming from around the globe to address the hottest topics of the sport and a diverse showcase of different brands and services. The event will also host the exclusive launch and presentation of a new brand envisioned by one of Europe’s most influential surfers as well as a dedicated shaping bay set to gather several international top shapers. The show will continue to provide the time and space to gather major industry players, key decision makers and influential personalities around surfing. An event that offers great conditions for business development and interactions between brands and the public, all done in a relaxed and friendly environment in one of the most special venues in the country. More details to be announced soon on website below. surfoutportugal.pt

S K AT E B OA R D FO OT W E A R S S /20

photo Fallen

Ready to write those shoe orders for next season? Make sure to read our Skateboard Footwear Spring/Summer 2020 by SOURCE Skateboard Editor Dirk Vogel.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

What

core skate retailers need more than ever is that special something to stand out from mainstream offerings. “Skateboarding was born out of individuality and it has morphed into sameness. I strongly feel that once retailers start doing things differently, they will see the customers slowly return through their doors,” said Scott Sentianin, International Sales at Lakai. At Supra Footwear, Brand Director Sascha Weil points out SS20 highlights include the new Tom Penny pro model, Grecco Loafer and Chad Muskadesigned Muska2000: “It is these eye catchers that retailers need. There is a need for fresh, new exciting stuff, the consumer wants to be inspired by something they haven’t seen in a while.” The price window for functional skate shoes has settled around €65 and the majority of performance-oriented models sell around €85. Higher end models like the Muska2000 retail for €200 and shoes with premium materializations also command three-digit price points. Vans sells pro shoes with newly upgraded footbeds and Duracap for around €70 but goes up to €115 for pinnacle tech. The new footwear brand Fourwin by long-time Osiris designer Brian Reid (currently looking for European distribution) is bucking the trend: “Our stylish shoes closely resemble models that are $150-250 in store or online but for $60. In addition, our shoes are strictly vegan.” Brands are worried about the escalating trade war between the U.S. and China (where most shoes are manufactured). In May 2019, leading U.S. footwear companies such as Nike, Reebok and also Supra Shoes signed a letter to President Donald Trump warning that, “the proposed additional tariff of 25 percent on footwear would be catastrophic.” The tariffs would add an additional $7 billion in cost to consumers, and the statement warns that “some working American families could pay a nearly 100 percent duty on their shoes. This is unfathomable.” In positive news, the skate shoes market recently saw the return of beloved early 2000s brand Fallen Footwear. Airwalk is also making a comeback, while éS Footwear and DVS Footwear are celebrating their 25th anniversaries with special releases and activations. Skate participation is rising thanks to the ‘Olympics effect’ and exposure in high fashion. According to David Atkinson,

EMEA Product Manager, Vans Pro Skate, the growth is slow but steady. “It’s hard to know exactly who is buying the shoes – skaters or non-skaters, but if you’re out there in parks and the streets it definitely feels like skating is on an upward curve, especially women’s skateboarding.”

“Skateboarding was born out of individuality and it has morphed into sameness. I strongly feel that once retailers start doing things differently, they will see the customers slowly return through their doors.” Scott Sentianin International Sale, Lakai H E R E A R E 3 M A J O R T R E N D S I N S K AT E B O A R D F O O T W E A R F O R S S 20: 1. Technical Performance. In 2020 skateboarding will join the Olympics, which brings major mainstream exposure. This shifts the focus to performanceoriented footwear packed with technology, like the New Balance Numeric #913 by Brandon Westgate, marketed as “fearlessly technical”. Vans equips shoes with Rapidweld stitchless uppers, Wafflecup soles and Ultracush HD sockliners. etnies packs in STI Evolution Foam midsoles and brand-new outsole tech called Fiber-Lite created by Michelin, while Emerica implements G6 Polyurethane foam insoles as well as a Hybrid Heel anchor system. Supra has completely reengineered midsoles with new Supra Cush technology and uses TUF upper materials. Lakai is focused on Para-Mount outsoles and Delux-Lite footbeds, Fallen inserts Impact insoles, Osiris implements DROP-IN insoles and CTRL Impact System, while State features Duraflick and HT drag. C1rca is proud of their exclusive FusionGrip outsole. And at DVS, Brand Manager Brent Phelps is stoked on Flex Feel technology and Max lace technology that makes laces last much longer. 17

retail buyer’s guide

2. Slip-Ons. The uncomplicated and stylish slip-on sneaker made a big splash in 1982 when teen comedy Fast Times at Ridgemont High created a frenzy around the Vans Style 98 slip-ons in a black-and-white checkerboard pattern. Now we’re seeing a revival, kicked off by 2019’s anniversary edition of the Nike SB Janoski in a slip-on style. State Footwear features the Keys slip-on for SS20, Emerica has the Wino G6 Slip On with crackled leather chips that reveal red underneath. Also trending right now are pro colourway slip-ons for female skaters: Lizzie Armanto endorses a colourway of the skate-ready Vans SlipOn Pro. All-round ripper Nora Vasconcellos put her artistic spin on the adidas Sabalo Slip On for next season. 3. Comfort. Putting a finger on the final season trend, Scott at Lakai said: “We feel the next trend will include a comfort factor on top of a unique-looking product that is not super sporty.” Vans has reinvigorated classic silhouettes with the new comfort technology ComfyCush, released in 2019 to an overwhelming response. The Fourwin Classico model strikes a balance between comfort and on-point stylistics, so does the Lakai Flaco II. Brian Barber, General Manager at Osiris also said: “The first trend is comfort, which we have added with our new CTRL Impact System as well as tech styling without being to over the top.” At Globe, Senior Footwear Designer Morgan King sees the biggest trend in staying true to their brand DNA. “In our world it’s chunky silhouettes that were born out of the 90s performance era, big, bold and jammed full of 90s tech.”

“Make sure to focus on true skate product not skate lifestyle product – a mis-educated skater buying skate lifestyle can be burnt and not come back.” David Atkinson EMEA Product Manager Vans Pro Skate styles for core skateboarders feature slim cuts, padded collars, heel protection and impact-dampening midsoles. Watch out for SS20 highlights such as Joslin 2 (etnies), Spanky G6 and Dickson Pro (Emerica), Evant (éS Footwear), Bomber and Patriot (Fallen), Versa (Fourwin), Cambridge and Manchester XLK (Lakai), Tom Penny and Spencer Hamilton’s Elevate (Supra), Enduro 125 and Devious (DVS), Stratus, Vice and Peril (Osiris), Elgin (State x ScumCo), and AVE Pro and Rowan Pro (Vans).

COLOURS & ST YLIN G: LIGH T EN UP Consumers will always want their black skate shoes but come on, it’s summer season! Sascha at Supra said: “We use hedge – a beautiful poison green – and mint and gold, not only as pop-colours, but as solids as well. That makes for some very surprising and fresh colour combos.” Next to classic checkerboards, fun floral and monogram prints are back in play. At Lakai, Director of Product Design Aaron Hoover said: “Different shades of blue, red, orange and yellow, colours that are slightly different and unique seem to catch the attention. Some pastels still work as well.” According to Rick Marmolijo, Director of Footwear Merchandising at etnies, it’s all about moderation: “Adding a slight colour pop with primary colours in red, royal and yellow.” Vans is big on earth colours and checkerboards, Brian at Fourwin is all about pink and burnt rose. Kevin at State likes shades of brown and green. At DVS, “colour blocking in monochrome with pop hits in red, lime or turq are working.” At Osiris, Brian Barber is seeing, “demand in some more of the pop colours such as lime, bright reds, and tonal greys mixed in.”

photo Globe

M AT ERIALS: PERFORM AN CE x VEGAN ISM

“There is a need for fresh, new exciting stuff, the consumer wants to be inspired by something they haven’t seen in a while.” Sascha Weil Brand Director, Supra S ILHO U E T T ES: SLIM & TEC H NI C AL The Vans Geoff Rowley Pro – a game changer upon its release in 1999 – created the blueprint for classic-looking shoes packing performance features into a streamlined silhouette. This direction is still the way forward. According to David Atkinson at Vans Pro Skate, it’s all about, “a mix of classic styling and tech. Make sure to focus on true skate product not skate lifestyle product – a mis-educated skater buying skate lifestyle can be burnt and not come back.” Vans is also making a push into mid-tops: “These are definitely working. The Sk8-Mid Pro is back, More Half Cabs and the new Rowan Pro.” Today’s main

While suede and canvas continue to rule shoe walls, brands are tinkering with their material blends. At Emerica, Senior Footwear Designer Paul Kwon is stoked on dropping a new premium material in SS20: “Extra durable, specialized Pig Suede that is designed to last longer than your average cow suede.” Meanwhile, we’re seeing a continued push towards synthetic uppers, started by models like 2018’s high-tech Nike SB Nyjah Free featuring variable thickness rubber skin that is sandblasted to resemble nubuck leather. Fallen Footwear is adding more vegan styles, Lakai uses water-based glues and recycled boxes while Fourwin is 100-percent vegan from day one. etnies is doubling down on sustainability with the etnies Essential Preserve, an almost all eco-friendly shoe that uses recycled textiles, rubber, laces, lining and canvas as part of the new elevated BASPAT program. Next season, etnies launches Bloom Foam as the world’s first plant-based performance-driven foam formulated with algae biomass. Vans proudly works with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), founded “to reduce the environmental impact of cotton production.” At C1rca, Simone Satragno Marketing Manager said: “Often we use synthetic nubuck and canvas.” Globe works with the National Forest Foundation and uses water-based glues in styles like new Low Tide model.

T WO M ORE T H IN GS First, the on-going trend towards rendering classic skate models in ultra-luxe materializations at premium price points. This season, éS Footwear drops the éS Lux Pack for SS20 featuring the ACCEL Slim, SWIFT 1.5, and SQUARE Three models as ultra-fresh updates. The second major takeaway for the upcoming Olympic year is an expected surge in newbie skaters, so brands are revving up their kid sizes, like the etnies Kid’s Locut CB “for that retro look” and Lakai’s Proto (the Tony Hawk Pro Model) as the brand’s first kid-sized cupsole in years. Instead of kid sizes, Vans now offers the entire “Pro Skate line down to a US3.5 with full Pro Skate specs” and “continue to work on women’s specific projects every season (with Brighton Zeuner for SP20).” Morgan King at Globe also sees growth in HIGHLIGHTS “women’s shoes for sure – but not necessarily for 1 Technical performance skateboarding but for 2 Slip-ons trending fashion. Its fun and it makes sense so why not 3 Slim silhouettes offer our chunky shoes in 4 All-over prints, bright colours a non-binary light.” 5 Synthetic & vegan materials 6 Variety in kids styles

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Spring/Summer 2020 Collection Available Through Authorized Osiris Dealers In The European Region WWW.OSIRISSHOES.COM WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM/OSIRISSHOES

retailer profile

BLACK SHEEP

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND Regarded as one Europe’s most legitimate skate shops, Black Sheep from Manchester (England) have won the Vans European Shop Riot Finals twice and have won nine out of the ten UK legs of the qualifying series of the event. We speak with Co-Founder Paul Harrison about their innovative retail setup. Please give a brief history of your store including when it was started, who started it and who the owners and key players are. Black Sheep started inside Central Skatepark (RIP) 13 years ago by myself (Paul Harrison) and Tez Robinson and we are still the owners. None of that could have happened without the Black Sheep Family involved throughout those years. That includes Eddie Belvedere, Rob Smith, Reiss Johnson, Oliver Tyreman, Nick Stansfield, Stu Reynolds, Chris Barrett, Stu Sofield, Will Linford, Harry Lintell and many more. After Central Skatepark closed, we moved into a listed building on Dale Street with an M1 postcode which hadn’t had much love over the last 50 years. It took eight months of complete renovation, but we are so pleased with all the hard work and effort that has gone into the shop, it really has made it all worthwhile and have now been in that location for four years. What percentage of your sales are from online business compared to your brick-and-mortar sales? The online percentage is increasing and the appetite for online is not slowing down. I would say we are 65% online and 35% in store, so online is incredibly important. That said, we certainly take pride in our bricks and mortar; we’ve spent 25 years working in retail, so we understand the importance of the physical store and its relationship with our local customers, and those who want to put faces to the names. How’s the local Manchester scene at present? The Manchester skate scene is ever evolving and expanding with the largest University campus in Europe. Every year brings an influx of fresh faces and a huge skate scene. With the pump cage growing and now Graystone in Manchester it’s also pretty attractive for people outside of Manchester to visit more often. We are now seeing generations of Manchester skateboarders come together from over decades and as it becomes increasingly normalized, the bigger it gets. Also, shout out to the powerful Stockport scene just outside of Manchester, RIP Chris Barrett. What are the benefits of having a physical shop over simply having an online store? We are always looking years ahead with who and what we want to be. Being traditionalists, the bricks do matter, and the very structure of a skate shop should be a point of contact for the skaters of that town or city. It can be

frustrating at times with so much to achieve but working hard means we get there. We don’t want to take over the world, but we want to be the best we can be. I think the constant strive to better everything about our business is what separates us from others. We try not to stand still and also look outside of the industry for innovation. Black Sheep have had lots of success with the Vans Shop Riot series over the years – does the comp help you sell more Vans product? We have been very fortunate with our winning of the Shop Riot, I think nine times now and twice in Europe. That all came from a belief I tried to instil in the team from day one, we are hardly athletes, but the passion is so strong. Rob Smith plays a huge part in the winning because he believes we can skate better than anyone and usually do. We have worked with Vans for over 10 years now as we started the first Vans Franchise store in the UK back in 2008. I personally have a lot of respect for Vans for what they have achieved whilst retaining total credibility. Vans are 110% actively promoting and supporting skateboarding around the world more so now than almost anyone else. Any exciting marketing events coming up this year? We have a few things lined up this year for sure, working with Graystone we have the full Madness Skateboards team coming through this summer which we are all looking forward to. Tons and tons of exclusive product releases from Vans and Adidas with some really exciting product dropping this year. We also have our own Real Skateboards deck coming out shortly and probably a ton of other stuff I have forgotten! Any thoughts on online-only retailers offering heavy discounts? My opinion is, if a business does not give back and support skateboarding proportionally to the money it makes from it, then it has no place within skateboarding. I think skateboarding is still niche but growing in its normality. That in itself is good and bad. The perception of money in skateboarding comes from its Californian imagery and “OTHER STUFF”. But talk to any hardware company and it’s a different story. Hopefully big box mega-stores will realise there is no money in hardware and stop selling it; leaving it to the independents that actually cared about it in the first place. My advice is don’t panic, just weather the storm, care about what you do, and support your locals. BLACKSHEEPSTORE.CO.UK 21

E IM T S IT’

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B O A R D S H O R T S S S /20

photo RVCA

Half-technical, half-fashion garment, boardshorts present a whole range of problems for designers. This puzzle has an extra element to it now that surfers have started demanding hybrid models: multi-function board, beach and walkshorts. Buyer’s guide by David Bianic.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

While

we are slipping into our boardshorts of choice for 2019, designers are putting the finishing touches on their spring/summer 2020 collections, doing their best to get a headstart in the world of fast fashion. Boardshorts are their own exclusive domain, distinct from beachshorts, but this latter category has nonetheless sneaked into surf apparel. Beyond being an exercise in style, the boardshort is a big sales lever, confirms Alexandre Berthonneau, Head of Product at Billabong Europe: “Boardshorts is the #1 category in spring, with a consistent growth compared to apparel.” Even though the mainstream market is looking for different cuts in swimming shorts, Head of Design at Maui and Sons Lacey Corkery explains: “we maintain a strong line in technical 4-way stretch boardshorts.” When it comes to figures, the beachshort has taken the upper hand on the fixed waist boardshort”, confirms Jan Lindeboom, Head of Men’s Clothing at O’Neill whose swimwear category constitutes the majority of their summer sales.

TEC H VS. ST YLE

For a few years now, the boardshort has emphasised fabrics and fits more so than styles. In 2020, the balance will be somewhat redressed, as the slogan of the Airlight range from Billabong characterises: “Tech is not dead, it’s hidden”. Stretch and ultralight synthetic fabrics are still in the mix but “in a less tech/minimalist direction”, explains Alexandre from Billabong. So prepare yourselves for shorts that are more visually rich, along the same lines as the Short Series Co. collection, influenced on one side by Hawaiian Art Deco imagery of the 1940s (Old Gold style) and on the other side by sixties pop art (Love Trip style). This colourful past is coupled up with the brand’s commitments to sustainable manufacturing using recycled polyester with multidirectional stretch, digital printing and low-volume production, explains founder Brett Chittenden. The outseam length is another crucial factor that affects both the technical characteristics and style of a boardshort. At Volcom,

“Boardshorts is the #1 category in spring, with a consistent growth compared to apparel.” Alexandre Berthonneau, Billabong Europe Designer in Chief of Boardshorts Shane Crow has found an original solution to solve this problem: “Actually starting in spring we paid a visit to our archive, and found a treasure trove of classic old-school Volcom silhouettes from the 90’s… We’ve modernized a few of these styles. Basically taking what was a 22-23” boardshort and cutting about 4” off, applying our current ‘Cinch Fly’ tech, and exploring some new nylon stretch fabrics.” After several years of yo-yoing, the most popular outseam length seems to have stabilised at around 19-20 inches but many are continuing to offer complementary models: either 16”-17” shorter models or longer ones at 21”22”. This is the case at Quiksilver and Dakine, as their Product Line Manager Karrie Bittersdorf explains: “Outseam length preference varies from region to region, so we are offering 3 different outseam lengths for our 2 price point styles for men’s (Mission & Roots), and 2 inseam lengths for the women’s price point boardshort (Dauntless)”.

H YBRIDISAT ION S

Apparently incompatible, boardshorts and beachshorts (as in core surfers and bathers or worse still, kooks) are borrowing more and more characteristics from each other. Quiksilver sum this up with disconcerting ease: “Boardshorts for surfing, Boardshorts for living” and in this second category 23

retail buyer’s guide

we find beachshorts that look so much like them they could be mistaken for boardshorts if it wasn’t for the side pockets and string around the waist. Better still, board and beachshorts are encroaching into walkshort territory to offer even more versatility. We are thinking here about Brunotti especially who have three hybrid fits on offer: “chino, cargo with mega 4-way stretch and a 5 pocket model with 2-way stretch” explains Sasha Groeneveld from marketing. Quiksilver are once again presenting an Amphibian model, a walkshort to get wet in with its corrosion-proof zipper. So they’ve buried the hatchet between boardshort and beachshort wearers? “Ah, ah, excellent question!” says Karrie from Dakine. “I feel that while traditionally core surfers live in their boardshorts, a great number of surfers are traveling near and far to reach their surf destination, and beachshorts or hybrid shorts offer a great solution to in and out of water”. The result is a short that could be mistaken for a normal chino but with stretchy, fast drying fabric, “without the techy look”. Even Hurley, who see themselves as a core boardshort brand - “it’s in our DNA”- have gone along with it in their Alpha Trainer model. “At the core of the question we are talking about elastic versus fixed waistband. Historically that has been the only difference,” reckons Brett from Short Series Co. whose collection employs elastic waistbands with a drawcord.

“Being Volcom, we like to mix unexpected Pops of color… Jade Greens, with Hot Pinks, Pale Orange with Royal Blue” Shane Crow, Volcom

photo Quiksilver

The firecrackers of previous seasons seem to have been put out, with most brands opting for sobriety with injections of sparkle. We see many “black bases with touches of colour and shades of blue” cites Alexandre from Billabong. The same choice was made at Quiksilver whose two “colour stories”, Wave Rave (‘90s, grungy, dark and a bit psychedelic) and Tropical Flow (printed with tropical flowers, revisited with bright colours), go alongside black or dark blue dominators. Salty Crew has built a new color story for their SP20/SU20 line, made of “brighter blues, corals and yellows popping up”, that is to say freshy options for the brand, with a positive response so far. Although O’Neill are going for seventies style (navy blue, orange and faded yellow with motifs from the era like flowers and stripes), the brand are offering a new line of those fluoros: “A FLUO yellow in a colorgroup with Army green. Quite sure this will be a very commercial combination”, assures Jan Lindeboom. From khaki with camouflage patterns there’s only one place to go and unsurprisingly, Volcom are revisiting this iconic style but not just that:

“I feel that while traditionally core surfers live in their boardshorts, a great number of surfers are traveling near and far to reach their surf destination, and beachshorts or hybrid shorts offer a great solution to in and out of water.” Karrie Blittersdorf, Dakine “Being Volcom, we like to mix unexpected pops of colour… Jade Greens, with Hot Pinks, Pale Orange with Royal Blue”, cites Shane Crow. Another brand, another style but the same process at Maui and Sons who are resuming their famous shark and camo shark prints in 2020 combined with colours like Capri blue, neon pink and melon orange. Camo again at Patagonia who are re-releasing the Gerry Lopez signature model within their Stretch Hydropeak collection. A sure-fire hit. Lastly, Head of Menswear Products at Rip Curl, Pierre-Alexandre ‘P-A-M’ Merlet, promises us a big comeback from “geometric prints and naïve all over prints”. Signature models (Rip Curl with Conner Coffin and Dakine with JJF) are enjoying great success, as are collabs 24

photo Salty Crew

COLOURS & M OT IFS

with renowned artists, like the super technical boardshort Jay Davies X Mark Oblow 19” from RVCA containing “a symbol of a flower which both he and I are fascinated by”, explains surfer Jay Davies.

F A B R I C S A N D S U S TA I N A B L E M A N U F A C T U R I N G

Although technology is deliberately less ostentatious, as seen at the start of this article, it’s no less prevalent. It started with a handful but now almost the majority of brands have turned to recycled polyester for some or all of their collections like Maui and Sons, Billabong, Protest and Quiksilver; 100% of their boardshorts are made from recycled plastic bottles. Beyond the obvious ecological benefits, Ingrid Kalma, Designer in Chief at Protest, reiterates that plastic enhances the wicking and fast-drying properties of the shorts. It’s the same story from Salty Crew whose polyester used across the 2020 range guarantees a 40+ UPF anti-UV rating as well as excellent breathability, “Great protection from the sun whether surfing, on the boat or just outside in the elements,” assures Head of Product Mike Niemann. Plant-base it is as well with Salty Crew’s upcycled fabric “made from coconut husks that are recycled and made into yarn”. At Dakine, the men’s and women’s Cyclone models are made from highly durable Cordura fabric that holds the Bluesign certification, lined by a Ripstop fabric. “In addition, we are using a PFC-Free DWR finish to reduce our carbon footprint,” adds Karrie Bittersdorf. Rip Curl are also opting for Cordura combined with neoprene on the Mirage 3/2/1 while the seamless Ultimate model contains “surf grip (that) helps you keep your boardshort close to your hips,” explains Pierre-Alexandre Merlet. Hurley are constantly innovating with two updates to their flagship models: The Phantom Hyperweave Max (10 plastic bottles to make one short with improved fit and stretch) and the Phantom JJF 6 (new technology at the waist), as well as a lower priced version of the Hyperweave. At O’Neill, they are bringing Velcro back into fashion with the No Tie Fly, a system that “doesn’t work with a tie, but with a flat Velcro construction that is bulk free.” The brand are also supplying their beachshorts and hybrid shorts with a 30m-waterproof pocket that you can put a phone or car keys in. Alongside their Mod-Tech models with Repreve fibres (recycled PET), Volcom continue to deliver the goods with their aptly named Stoney boardshorts… made of hemp. So retailers have no shortage of sales arguments to guide their customers in 2020 and it’s just as well because these boardshorts have a relatively high price point and rightly so. Say €40-50 for simple HIGHLIGHTS beachshorts, €60-80 for mid to high-end technical 1 More discreet technology board shorts and up to €130 2 19”-20”outseam length for super technical models. Fortunately, they are more 3 Versatile hybrid shorts durable than in the past… 4 Dull/dark colours and flashy touches 5 Recycled polyester everywhere

T H E G R E AT O U T D O O R S S S /20

photo Avenay Stoves

The outdoor market is constantly finding ways to grow. Current buzzwords include urban outdoor, innovation, quality and sustainability in this dynamic market segment. Get the details in our Spring/Summer 2020 Retail Buyers Guide by Natalia Maruniak.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

In

an era when the average person’s life is dictated by stress, the outdoor segment presents an alternative way of life to our efficiency-driven everyday reality. To no surprise, the movement is picking up converts by the minute in an upward trajectory also supported by the latest statistics. Projections for 2020 are positive: Statista estimated the worth of the outdoor market in Germany at €1.9 billion in 2018 and expects the category to reach €1.98 billion by 2020. Looking ahead into 2025, Statista expects the outdoor industry to generated more than €2.5 billion per year in Germany.

URBA N OU T D OOR

A major growth driver for this upcoming segment is the growing wish among consumers to practice outdoor sports within urban environments. This has an impact on a product level: “The lines between everyday wear and outdoor clothing are blurring more than ever,” said Julia Reis, Product Marketing Manager Outdoor at Arc’teryx. Wearing a Gore-Tex jacket over a business suit has become an everyday phenomenon, summed up under the category header ‘urban outdoor’. “People nowadays are looking for crossover products with an urban look and the technical features needed for outdoor activities. Versatility is key!” said Julien Durant, Co-Founder of Picture Organic Clothing. The outdoor trend has now reached all layers of society, and the women’s segment in particular has seen tremendous growth. This has also led to a strong influx of specialized product designed for women. Arc’teryx counts among the brands serving this specific demand: “We have placed strong emphasis on improving our comfort and fit, especially for female customers.” What’s more, a particular age demographic has caught the outdoor bug. “Outdoor activities are becoming increasingly interesting to the younger generations,” said Hanna-Marie Mayer, PR Manager at Burton Europe.

HIGH P E R FOR M A NC E & V E RSATI L I TY

Lighter, more robust and sustainable at an increased performance: That’s the design blueprint most manufacturers are trying to achieve in their Spring/Summer 2020 collections. Hanna-Marie Mayer at Burton also sees a superseding trend: “Customers expect versatility from their outdoor clothing, in order to be able to use it for a broad range of activities. This means technical features, fabrics and functional styling.” Arc’teryx achieves these overarching goals in next season’s gorgeous Venda Anorak from the Everyday Collection, featuring new GORE-TEX C-KNIT Backer technology. “This soft and lightweight fabric achieves great longevity and excellent comfort of wear on the skin, while offering some city-centric features. It offers an immense

amount of versatility for everyday activities, wherever they may take place.” At Maloja, the focus over the last few years has been with the lightness achieved by technical materials, leveraged into incredible range of motion. “With this trend, seamless technologies are increasingly becoming the focus for functional apparel,” said Klaus Haas. Maloja is now implementing this technology in high-end bike jerseys. Patagonia follows the strategy to build products that “never get old“, says Louise Brierley-Ingham. Therefore the brand rebuilds its iconic classic rainshell The Torrentshell to be more comfortable und durable, “now built with a 3-layer construction with a recycled face fabric (Fair Trade Certified).” Picture Organic Clothing is pointing out another SS20 trend: a new minimalist lifestyle, including living in small apartments. “We design our products to be as packable and compact as possible.” This direction includes Picture’s lightweight Abstral jacket that offers broad outdoor functionality and stows into a small belt stash pocket.

“People nowadays are looking for crossover products with an urban look and the technical features needed for outdoor activities. Versatility is key!” Julien Durant, Co-Founder, Picture Organic Clothing SILH OUET T ES & ST YLES

Looking at the silhouettes and styles in SS20 outdoor apparel collections, don’t expect major surprises. Brands are mostly staying true to their classic and established styles, while some add extra flair by ways of strong colours and prints. While Burton continues to bank on traditional and functional silhouettes in the AK Collection, customers looking for more bold designs will find what they need in the Burton Collections range with striking colours and bold colour blocking. Picture heads into the season with a range of staples including classic windbreakers and technical pants, while staying true to the brand DNA of original prints and strong colours: The Abstral print for fashionable men is rendered in khaki, black and blue while the women’s Terrazzo print revolves around pastels. Kavu likes it especially colourful this season: “We love colours. Just look at our crazy prints!” said Jeremy Goodman, International Sales Director, pointing out the Zany Kavu Party Looks. Japanese 29

“Customers are prepared to pay the appropriate price for well-made and functional products,” The James Brand S USTAIN A BILIT Y

“Sustainability remains a focus for brands as well as consumers,” said HannaMarie Mayer at Burton. Brands are going to great length in their efforts towards more sustainable manufacturing in the outdoor segment. In order to meet increasing demand in this segment, Burton is offering the Solution Dyed Collection. It features solution-dyed fabrics that are particularly environmentfriendly, since their production requires 80% less water and emits 63% less CO2 than conventional dying techniques. Maloja is inspired by the small nation of Bhutan in the Himalayas, which is the world’s only country with a negative CO2 balance. The secret behind this feat is the consistent use of recycled materials and natural fabrics, including hemp, together with environmentsafe production methods. “Thanks to new technologies, new combinations of materials become possible that make hemp more functional and comfortable than before.” Unitedbyblue shares this approach and implements “hemp as an alternative to synthetic performance materials,” said Brendan Rauth, Men’s Apparel Designer. On top of that, the brand includes organic cotton, recycled nylon as well as a recycled polyester and hemp blend for the ultimate in comfort and performance. Picture Organic Clothing has been a pioneer in terms of sustainability since day one: “Enjoying the great outdoors also means protecting some of our favourite places to play.” For this reason, the French brand builds “every product at least from 50% recycled polyester (Green Plus certified) and uses a water-repellent treatment: Teflon EcoElite PFC Free.” Jeckybeng has joined forces with Taiwanese fabrics experts Hermin to create the Natural Laboratory Project while shifting the focus towards renewable materials such as cotton, wool, linen, cellulose and palm fibres as “a natural alternative to modern synthetic fabrics, manufactured in harmony with nature,” explained Moritz Lorenz at Jeckybeng.

photo The James Brand

retail buyer’s guide

outdoor brand Snow Peak charges into SS20 on the strength of large, oversized silhouettes with gigantic pockets that are functional, fashionable and comfortable, executed in muted colours and variations of stripes. Earth colours play a lead role for Jeckybeng as well as Unitedbyblue. The latter equip men with mustard and olive tones for SS20 as well as light shades of turq and bluegreen, seen in button-up shirts with fun prints and colourful checkers. Maloja has some eccentric styles up its sleeve for next season, with a far-out product leading the charge, the water-proof skirt Molinas U. “This will keep your hiking pants dry when it starts to rain. You can also use it as a water-repellent cover for sitting on wet surfaces and it stows away easily into a small stash pocket.”

T REN DS

The outdoor segment provides consumers with all necessary equipment for breaking away from everyday life. Heimplanet addresses this underlying urge with storytelling geared around breakouts. “We are trying to outline ways in which people can escape their routine. Whether it’s every day, on weekends or on the trip of a lifetime.” For Petromax, the trend is headed towards, “deceleration and enjoying time with friends and family. Getting together in front of a campfire and rediscovering fundamentals: preparing delicious food, spending time with your loved ones and winding down.” Camp fires (“Takibi” in Japanese) are also the focus for Snow Peak because they are, “always the best part about camping.” For SS20, the brand introduces a range of products geared towards camp fires, including a fireplace, fire-proof clothing (e.g. the Takibi Vest) and the Takibi Tarp Octa (TP430): “A two-layered tarp with an inner layer crafted from fire-proof material, so that people can enjoy the fire during rainfalls covered by the tarp.” Additional dominant buzzwords across SS20 collections are innovation, enjoyment of nature and comfort. “We were able to observe that the market is thriving for innovative products that provide consumers with an opportunity to experience the reality and rustic quality of nature without sacrificing any comforts and modern necessities,” explained Dawie Cronje,, owner of Anevay Stoves.

“We were able to observe that the market is thriving for innovative products that provide consumers with an opportunity to experience the reality and rustic quality of nature without sacrificing any comforts and modern necessities.” Dawie Cronje, Owner of Anevay Stoves.

photo Hemiplanet

OUT DOOR ESSEN T IALS

OUTDO OR EQ U IP M E N T

The market for camping equipment is subject to the same growth as outdoor apparel. “Camping and outdoor are regarded as cool and embraced by more and more consumers,” said Stefan Clauss, Co-Founder and CEO of Heimplanet, adding: “Camping is becoming a lifestyle activity and products serve more than mere functional requirements. They have become objects of joy with decorative characteristics.” Brands in this segment are in a fortunate position, as consumers prefer high-quality products and equipment. “Customers are prepared to pay the appropriate price for well-made and functional products,” said the team at The James Brand. Snow Peak confirmed this trend and said: “Customers are ready to pay for great quality and long-lasting products instead of blowing money on cheap gear that’s lacking quality.” 30

Every perfect outdoor adventure needs a nice meal. Anevay Stoves supports this need with a whole range of products, its highlights including the Horizon, “the perfect companion for a quick trip to the beach or into the forest.” Thanks to gas-burning technology, this oven presents a lightweight alternative to grills and can cook up an outdoor meal for large groups in a matter of minutes. Petromax equips consumers with a broad selection of gear around grilling and cooking in the great outdoors. A must-have for all burger fans: The burger iron, which grills juicy burgers directly over the open campfire. And for all charcoal grill enthusiasts and connoisseurs of charcoal flavour, the Traeger Grills brand is a perfect match: “In line with the camping goods market we have created a collection of small, portable grills that empower users to do some precise cooking in open nature,” said Lisa Janssen, International Marketing Manager. Last but not least, never head into the outdoors without a functional knife. The James Brand has you covered with the Hell Gap, “our first knife with a solid blade,” as well as the Ellis model as the perfect HIGHLIGHTS combi tool for your pants 1 Crossover products pocket. “That’s the kind 2 Versatility is a must of knife real backpackers and campers carry in 3 Constant demand for sustainability their pocket.” 4 Consumers want quality

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SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION AT INGREDIENT BRANDS

In today’s world, environmental sustainability is at the forefront of society’s attention and it has never been more prevalent in the textile and fashion industry. There is an ever-increasing demand from consumers for more environmentally-friendly products, with good reason too. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting and impactful industries for the environment. When it comes to more sustainable fashion it’s important to look past the end-consumer brands and focus on the ingredient brands; the businesses which manufacture the material. They are the drivers behind innovations of sustainable textile materials. By Maximillian Theo/ GreenroomVoice. Ingredient brands are in a unique position in the supply chain. In most cases there are two or even three degrees of separation between them and the consumer, resulting in relatively less direct pressure from the general public, compared to an end-consumer brand. Ironically, they actually have more ‘control’ over sustainability in the clothing industry, as they are the ones who develop clothing technology and distribute their material to multiple brands. While they aren’t frequently in the spotlight, they are leading the charge in sustainable fashion. Modern sustainability in industry is largely based on the idea of a ‘Circular Economy’. Traditionally, industries are built upon a more linear process; a finite resource is used to create a product which in turn is disregarded at the end of its life. A Circular Economy approach ‘ties’ the two ends of the process together, making ‘waste’ and ‘resources’ synonymous. Actualizing the idea of a ‘circular economy’ requires the concept of waste to be redefined. “Waste is a problem but can also be a resource” says Maria Sandrini, Brand and Communication Manager at Aquafil, referencing their ECONYL® line, “we wanted to be at the forefront of providing a solution… our company developed a system which repurposes waste into beautiful sustainable textiles that have the potential to be recycled infinitely”. Aquafil collects

old nylon fishing nets from the ocean and landfills and upcycles them into high-quality, recyclable, yarn. Other ingredient brands, such as Shoeller, uses Aquafil’s ECONYL® material for some of their textiles as well. For Polartec, manufacturer of high-performance materials, this concept is not something new. “Polartec created the very first performance fabrics made from post-consumer recycled plastics in 1993”, states Eric Yung, International Vice President. Being the first to upcycle plastic bottles into fabrics, Polartec, has to date recycled more than 1.3 billion plastic bottles. While Aquafil and Polartec source recycled materials from outside their respective industries, brands such as Re:Down are built solely upon recycling and selling the same material. “Re:Down offers recycled down from post-consumer goods”, explains Co-Founder, Eric Firmann. This method “is already a more sustainable product compared to virgin down because we solve a small part of the massive textile waste”. Understanding why these brands focus on sustainability offers insight into their newest innovations. Polartec’s Eric Yung believes, “we all need to make steps forward in reducing the environmental impact of what we make”. This belief has led to the development of the brand’s “Eco Engineering™” 33

commitment which, “rather than being one, single innovation, is Polartec’s ongoing commitment to sustainability and sets a new standard for sustainable textiles” explains Yung. According to Polartec’s this commitment includes the goal use of 100% biodegradable and recycled material across its entire product line by using genetically engineered spider silk. The program has already given rise to the world’s first fully recycled and biodegradable fleece. They have recently teamed up with Kraig Bio craft Laboratories to provide

“Our [Life Cycle Assessment] results have shown that the best way to minimize the environmental footprint of a functional outdoor jacket or a pair of hiking boots is to enhance their durability.” GORE® – the brand behind GORE-Tex

the sustainable alternative to high-performance synthetic fibres. Spider silk is one of the strongest fibres produced in nature and is renewable and biodegradable. Originally designed for specialized military applications, Kraig has developed a way to implement the spider silk gene into silkworms, which they explain “is the first way to mass produce these fibres cost effectively and responsibly”. For German yarn manufacturer, Südwolle, “[sustainability] is a long overdue trend with a great deal of new and interesting opportunities”, explains Elisa Pfeiffer from marketing. She claims that at Südwolle, there is a desire “to make sustainability the norm instead of [an] add-on”. Through their ‘Betaspun Evolution’ technologies, which create 100% biodegradable yarn, the brand is beginning to realize their goal. This technology is based upon twisting a natural filament around a merino wool base. Wool, being a natural fibre, creates a 100% biodegradable material so long as the filament added is also a natural fibre. Peter Krommer from Lavalan, explains how dealing with wool results in “the current trend for sustainability [hitting Lavalan’s] strategy and not vice versa”.

Being the first to upcycle plastic bottles into fabrics, Polartec, has to date recycled more than 1.3 billion plastic bottles.

much-overused word these days”, he states “so much so it is getting used as a Greenwashing expression”. Instead of focusing on the Circular Economy concept, which according to him, “is not being completely understood”, HDWool prioritizes developing a ‘Regenerative’ habit. The idea behind it is simple, “you put more in than you take out” explains Joe. HDWool® puts this idea into practice, for example, by supporting the better rearing of sheep. When managed holistically, wool is a renewable resource which is completely biodegradable and removes CO2 from the atmosphere. Sometimes, the line between maintaining the integrity of a product and implementing more sustainable aspects can be difficult to distinguish. Brands working with materials which may not be as easily available to recycle or biodegrade, often turn to quality and durability, considered to be equally important in cases. “Our [Life Cycle Assessment] results have shown that the best way to minimize the environmental footprint of a functional outdoor jacket or a pair of hiking boots is to enhance their durability”, claims GORE® – the brand behind GORE-Tex®. Companies working with chemicals face additional challenges beyond resourcing of materials and end-of-life disposal. GORE® is moving towards removing PFC’s of environmental concern (PFCEC) out of their product line. To date they have already transferred over 50% of their laminates to DWR’s not containing these harmful PFC’s. They continue to experiment with alternatives and in 2018 launched a three-layer GORETex® jacket which is PFCEC free.

“Relentlessly responsible” is PrimaLoft’s® brand mission for sustainability according to their Senior VP and Brand Marketing Manager, Jochen Lagemann. “We are using performance to drive our sustainability efforts by pushing the limits of material science,” Lagemann states. In regard to PrimaLoft’s responsibility as a brand he claims, “even if this is more expensive…we are convinced that ingredient brands like us can drive the sustainability activities in the markets we serve”. PrimaLoft® presents a similar claim to Polartec in regard to recyclability. Lagemann states that PrimaLoft® Bio™ is “the world’s first” 100% recycled and partly biodegradable, synthetic fibre. This echoes Polartec’s statement. The trend toward recycled and biodegradable materials proves to be a promising one, with the goal to reduce the plastic waste catastrophe which our planet, and more specifically our oceans, are facing. Polartec’s latest ‘Power Air’ material is also designed to reduce plastic waste, but in a different way. Yung claims “it is the first ever fabric technology designed to reduce fibre shedding”. Fibre shedding occurs when synthetic materials are washed and micro plastic fibres come loose, potentially dispersing themselves in the surrounding ecosystem. Yung explains the new fabric “sheds at least five times less than other premium fleece fabrics”. Another issue with using plastic is that traditionally plastics are petroleum based. Safidah Ullmann, Sales Manager at Toray, states “Toray’s main aim is to develop bio-based materials, paving the way to uprooting fossil fuel consumption and promoting a non-petroleum society”. Joe Dawson, owner of HDWool® takes a more pragmatic approach when discussing his brand’s commitment to the environment. “Sustainability is a 34

Cordura, the US-based fabric manufacturer, is also centred around durability. “For us, durability is nothing new,” says Catherine Jones, Brand Marketing Manager. “It’s simple really. Products made with CORDURA® fabrics are longlasting. And long-lasting products need to be replaced less often”. While Jones takes pride in the durability of her brand’s products, she explains other ways Cordura is innovating in the sustainability space, more specifically in the dyeing process. “CORDURA® TrueLock™ fabric encapsulates colour at the molten polymer level,” Catherine explains. “The process to make the SDN fibre offers several environmental benefits such as reduced water and energy consumption”. As Pelle Jansson, Marketing Manager at We aRe SpinDye® points out, “When it comes to use of water, chemicals and energy use, the dyeing process is the most resource demanding step in textile production”. Therefore, Jansson reasons, “a sustainable fabric must be dyed in a sustainable dyeing process.” Accordingly, “the main reason why We aRe SpinDye® exists is to reduce the water and chemical consumption when colouring polyester fabrics”. The brand has developed a method, which “[reduces] the average water consumption by 75% and 90% of the chemical used”. What does the future of sustainable technologies hold in store? If Polartec is anything of an example, we are in for an exciting ride. Don’t mistake sustainability for a passing trend in the fashion space or simply a reaction to a new wave of consumer demands. The proactive innovations of ingredient brands indicate that sustainability is here to last.

#RIDE FOR THE FUTURE EXPEDITION LINE

T O D A Y ,

THE FIGHT AG AI N ST

C L I M AT E CHANGE

REQUIRES WIPING OUT

OUR DEPENDENCE

ON FOSSIL OIL.

S K AT E H E L M E T S & P R OT E CT I O N 2 0 20

photo Sandbox

There’s never been a better time for retailers to get serious about selling protective gear. 2020 Skate Helmets & Protection Retail Buyers Guide by SOURCE Skateboard Editor Dirk Vogel.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

“With

the Olympics coming up and skateboarding becoming more mainstream and inclusive, the number of new skaters is definitely on the rise. Having the right protection gives someone just starting out the confidence they need to get rolling,” says Yana Farrally-Plourde, Director of Marketing & Product Development at Triple Eight and 187 Killer Pads. “Speaking with a local core shop today they recently brought in helmets for the first time and within two weeks they’re sold out,” said R.P. Bess Global Brand Director at Pro-Tec. The main price window for a certified, pro-level helmet is trending towards €49.99 right now, but brands like Bern and Pro-Tec are offering solid beginners’ helmets around €34.99. A decent combo of knee and elbow pads retails at €29.99 while premium pads by 187 Killer Pads and TSG models featuring smart ACF impact foam can run from €79.99 to €119.99. Preparing for the 2020 season, retailers need to watch the following 3 Major Trends in Pads and Helmets:

1. C E RT IF IE D P E R FO R MANC E

Consumers are becoming more educated about certified protective gear. And Nadja Herger, Marketing/Communication at TSG pointed out: “With the new PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425 dealers are responsible to prove that the protective gear they sell is tested and certified.” Brands are supporting retailers with the necessary documentation and by adding certified versions of best selling models to their 2020 collections. Triple 8 introduces the Certified Sweatsaver helmet, while Pro-Tec has achieved CE-certification for the new Old School Cert model. Watch out for safety seals such as EN1078, CE, ASTM, AS/NZS 2063:2008, and CPSC.

2. LIGHT W E IGHT P ROTEC TI O N

“We’ve seen the market trending a lot more towards lighter, less bulky protection,” said Tobias Dray, Brand Manager at REKD pointing out the Ultralite In-Mold Helmet. Yana at 187 Killer Pads, who perfected 2020’s Slim Knee pads over the past three years, confirmed: “Keeping things to a minimum is definitely trending at the moment. Our new Stealth Hardcap Elbow pads have a hard cap fitted under a Kevlar exterior that doesn’t slip down.”

3. GROW T H A M ON G K I D S A ND WO M E N

Young shredders need protection. REKD sell a kid-specific Heavy Duty Double Pad Set for €23.95. Meanwhile, TSG is offering big protection for little shredders with, “the Force III vert kneepads in a Youth version. These are by far the most protective skate knee pads for kids on the market.” Pointing out the second major growth market in skate, R.P. Bess at Pro-Tec said: “We’re really loving the growth of women in skateboarding. They’re ripping harder than ever!”

H ELM ET DESIGN S: SOM ET H IN G FOR EVERYONE

From downhill helmets to classic skate helmets, consumers have never had more helmet choices. Despite all the variety in terms of shapes, next season’s biggest seller remains the classic half-shell helmet with models such as the Old School Cert (Pro-Tec), Macon (Bern) Evolution and Meta (TSG), Certified Sweatsaver (Triple 8), Ultralite In-Mold Helmet (REKD), and Classic 2.0 (Sandbox). And to make skate helmets last all year, Bern has added “cold weather liners to be worn on colder days allowing enthusiasts to stay out there longer!”

H ELM ET T ECH N OLOGIES: B RAIN PROT EC T ION

Brands such as Bern and Pro-Tec are bullish on Multidirectional Impact Protection System (MIPS), while Triple 8 implements MIPS and, “Conehead foam that crumbles on impact and reduces the force.” Over at REKD, the In-Mold process fuses high density protective EPS with an extremely lightweight, durable PC outer shell, creating helmets weighing in at a mere 290 grams. At Sandbox, Max Jenke said: “We continue to provide best in class protection with an ABS shell combined with an EPS liner. Our undercover venting on our Classic 2.0 model is a unique, patented air flow system.”

H ELM ET ST YLIN G: BACK IN B LACK

Much like skateboard shoes, the dominant colour for helmets will always and forever remain black as night. At Pro-Tec, matte black is the biggest seller, but R.P. Bess is also stoked on flashier models like the Hosoi Black Flace Full Cut Cert, Skeleton Key Old School Collab, and the Volcom Collab. While REKD is seeing success with earthy colours, Triple 8 has some popping colourways like the red glossy Certified Sweatsaver and a Tony Hawk pro model with minimal graphics, while Sandbox sells a killer black-on-black camo pattern.

PAD DESIGN S: FREEDOM OF M OVEM EN T

Protective pads follow the overall trend toward lighter safety gear, yet without compromising on performance. Many brands implement viscoelastic foams in their pro range pads, including TSG’s Arti-Lage soft foam that adapts to the wearer’s anatomy. Also at TSG, Nadja Herger announced a new product specifically for the current Surf Skate trend HIGHLIGHTS (see Special Report in this 1 Growth in kids & women’s issue): The Wavesk8 Kneepad. 2 Lightweight protection Triple 8 decided to address the question of how to lug all that 3 Mandatory certification safety gear to the session with 4 MIPS helmets the Triple 8 Mesh Backpack. 5 Surf skate kneepads 37

W O M E N ’ S S T R E E T W E A R S S /20

retailer profile

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

photo Protest

Women are always at the forefront of fashion, constantly putting their individual twist on current streetwear trends. As a result, next season is rich in variety and experimentation with that certain boardsports feel. Find all the latest looks for SS20 in our Retail Buyer’s Guide for Women’s Streetwear by Dirk Vogel.

Women’s

streetwear has reached a particularly interesting point with more diversity than ever, as confirmed by boardsports apparel brands in this guide. “The women’s streetwear market is still growing. All different kinds of trends lead to a very fast development of different styles,” said Lena Hoffmann, Head of Product at bleed Organic clothing, adding: “One direction that is growing and delights us as an eco and fair brand is the sustainable development in fashion.” This sentiment is echoed by Ines Schwitzky, Category Manager Womens at Berlinbased Iriedaily: “In order to differentiate we are focusing on – rather than fast fashion trends – good quality, more timeless items and fair working conditions for the workers in the factories.” It’s a more mature approach at a time when consumers demand more than flashy fashion items purchased today and thrown out tomorrow. As brands take on more responsibility across the entire value chain, they also take back the stylistic leadership that’s always been part of boardsports. “With streetwear being so important right now, boardsports needs to find a way to challenge themselves to compete in design and quality wise,” said Joseph Janus, CEO and Creative Director at WeSC. So where’s it all headed next season? Assuming a big-picture perspective on SS20 women’s streetwear trends, Katharina Baumann, EU Marketing Manager at Nikita said: “I think what’s cool is that there isn’t really a big difference between the women’s streetwear market and the men’s streetwear market. It’s kind of one of the more unisex markets that exist. I think it’s key for womenswear to get the fits right.” At German brand Homeboy Loud Couture, Head of Marketing Julian Wolf is on the same page: “Development is going towards more unisex styles with wider silhouettes in pants, shoes and tops. My girlfriend and I are fighting over my clothes on a daily basis.” Speaking of where things are developing, let’s dive in by highlighting next season’s three major women’s streetwear trends that retailers need to keep in mind:

“In order to differentiate we are focusing on – rather than fast fashion trends – good quality, more timeless items and fair working conditions for the workers in the factories.” Ines Schwitzky, Category Manager Womens Iriedaily

1. D E N I M

Much like in men’s collections, denim is the central topic in SS20 women’s collections. “Denim hook-ups have had a resurgence,” said Joseph at WeSC. Perfect for warm weather season, washes are on the light side across the entire spectrum from blue to grey jeans. The fabric itself is also on the light side, thinner than in fall/winter collections and infused with a generous dose of stretch for flexible movement. While denim is welcome to the party all summer long, distressed accents, rips, tears, and holes are not. It’s the season for keeping it clean.

2. F U N C T I O N A L FA S H I O N

Boardsports have always been about apparel that looks great and plays hard. As a major SS20 trend, Ines at Iriedaily identifies, “functional, outdoorinspired clothing with a strong Ethno touch.” In other words, these threads look fashionable but pack performance features under the hood to keep wearers comfortable, for instance Iriedaily’s water-repellent nylon in the Streetz Shorts or Bleed’s Econyl fabric for flexibility and breathability.

39

retailer profile

“I think what’s cool is that there isn’t really a big difference between the women’s streetwear market and the men’s streetwear market. It’s kind of one of the more unisex markets that exist.” Katharina Baumann, EU Marketing Manager, Nikita Unisex styles may be trending, but nothing says summer like a nice, airy dress. Protest debuts the Charity dress, featuring broderie anglaise: “This embroidery technique is synonymous with fresh, flirty summer dressing.” Forvert goes into SS20 with floral patterns and horizontal stripes in, “a beach dress with spaghetti straps and a piqué polo dress with a zipper in the side seam and a wide waistband.” Bridging the gap between dresses and street flavours, Nikita lands a masterpiece with the comfortable and clean-looking Brunnur dress: “A Nikita classic that will never let you down. Clean lines, strong logos and current colourway options, it’s a recipe for success.”

S S 20 S E A S O N T H E M E S

For Lena at bleed Organic, next season’s outfits are all about a blend of contrasts: “Structured fabrics combined with plain styles. Wide cuts combined with slim fits. Sporty styles will be mixed with high fashion attitude. The market will be attracted by all different kind of contrasts.” WeSC is going deep into the athletics and wind gear trend with head-to-toe outfits at premium price points for sporty girls who shred. Iriedaily is also running an active look next season: “Lightweight windbreakers combined with comfortable sporty shorts or cargo pants and a cropped top are one of our key silhouettes,” said Ines Schwitzky while pointing out the La Palma Breaker from water-resistant polyester. Speaking to Nikita’s designer, Molly, we learned that streetwear is at an important juncture right now: “Fashion is dead, long live clothing. Norm core fashion is for those who realize they are one of 7 billion. The idea is fashion fatigue; influencer fatigue which is where fast fashion has become such a problem.” Instead of flashy pieces for Instagram likes, Nikita proposes wardrobe staples like the Chill PO Hoodie from 100% organic cotton. At Protest, SS20 is all about helping women with their wardrobe choices: “A short way of saying ‘a co-ordinated look’, it’s when your outfit is made up of a matching two-piece. As an easy way of looking well dressed, meet the Co-ord, your summer saviour. Making putting together your outfit a breeze, co-ords are extremely easy to style.” For extra flair, Forvert teamed up with Berlin-based photographer Sarah Bleszynski of Sarahlikesprettygirls-fame for a capsule collection extravaganza with limited edition photo print tees and skateboards.

photo Iriedaily

3. S U M M E R Y D R E S S E S

with longer sleeves that can be rolled up. Protest sees a trend towards roomier pockets for added storage space (and leaving the purse at home), while the midi-length in skirts and dresses brings a fresh and active look to this summer season.

M AT E R I A L S

Prepare for a new wave of lightweight denim, next to classic summer-time materials including cotton, jersey and knits that are equally lightweight and flexible. On that note, don’t forget to order some knit jumpers and cardigans as an extra layer for chilly nights by the seaside or spending time in aggressive air conditioning. Women’s streetwear collections are at the forefront of implementing new material innovations, like bleed’s Weather Coat Ladies Grey. It’s water-repellent and works like a windbreaker without any synthetic materials and the fabric is made from 100% biodegradable fibres.

“Structured fabrics combined with plain styles. Wide cuts combined with slim fits. Sporty styles will be mixed with high fashion attitude. The market will be attracted by all different kind of contrasts.” Lena Hoffmann, Head of Product, bleed Organic While sustainability clearly is THE leading season trend for SS20, Lena at bleed Organic points out: “Customers will be able to differentiate between real efforts and green washing approaches. So real transparency will be the key topic!” Nikita is also doubling down on environmental commitments, as Katharina Baumann explains: “For our SS20 collection we’re working a lot with recycled polyester and organic cotton. According to the Soil Association, we could reduce the global warming impact of cotton production overall by 46% by switching to organic cotton production. We’re extremely excited that almost 50% of the line is produced by using eco-friendly materials.”

photo Nikita

C O L O U R S & PAT T E R N S

SILHOUETTES

As a result of the unisex and athletic trends, fits in women’s streetwear are getting roomier but without losing their feminine edge. “Everything is getting wider but to keep the body’s silhouette alive we use crop tops. So you can wear our baggys in combination with our crop tops without completely hiding your curves,” said Julian at Homeboy. Pants are wider but still tapered and hemmed to hit above the shoes and show some ankle. Tops are slouchier

SS20 colour palettes favour a wide array of pastels, combined with splashes of neon and contrasting colour blocking in bold black, blue and off-white. Water-inspired tones like light blues and navy as well as azure and coral are popping up across collections, next to earth tones such as khaki, camel and sand. Plus, nothing says summer like sun-faded colourways and washed out fabrics for a worn-in look. When it comes to patterns, the season’s big story is stripes. “Wide, skinny, thin, long, uneven – these are the kinds of stripes we love. Stripes of all sorts and sizes are welcome in our SS20 collection,” said Mary Alayarian, Product Development at Nikita. Homeboy is keeping it urban with big logos and a Hardcore Happiness collab with Smiley, while Iriedaily is all about Ethno patterns and Jaquards. Monogram prints and geometric patterns will figure prominently, so will HIGHLIGHTS photo prints and carefully appointed florals. Best 1 Unisex styles of all, these patterns will 2 Summer dresses never go out of style – perfect for the sustainable 3 Tight pants, slouchy tops ethos of buying clothing 4 Focus on denim not for quick Instagram likes, but lifelong comfort. 5 Athletic and outdoor inspirations 6 Sustainable fabrics 7 Floral patterns, horizontal stripes

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Nikita is an iconic girls streetwear and outerwear brand that brings style and rebellious confidence to girls from the streets to the mountains. From our humble beginnings in the back of a skateboard shop in the late 90’s, we started with a single purpose; to make clothes FOR GIRLS WHO RIDE and this is what drives us ‘til this day and into the future...

nikitaclothing.com

@nikitaclothing

bigwig interview

BIG WIG INTERVIEW

SOLE TECH’S BAS JANSSEN

Bas Janssen started out his career as a pro skater, but after injury forced him to the side lines he discovered a penchant for marketing and selling skate brands. Now heading up Sole Tech’s Marketing for Europe we spoke with Jaz about the company’s diverse range of brands and find out just how they segment Etnies, Emerica and éS. Tell us about your background. What led you to your current role and background since university? Well there we go. In the midst of my skateboard career I had a pretty bad ankle injury, which put me on the bench for almost a year. While I was recovering from my injury, one of my previous sponsors, Hardcore Supplies gave me the chance to work for them as an inhouse sales rep for the hardgoods division and several core footwear and apparel brands. That job motivated me so much that I eventually decided to make way for the young rippers and end my skate career to be able to focus on my “work life”. My roll within Hardcore Supplies quickly grew and eventually I was made responsible for all skateboard hardgoods/softgoods/footwear brands in terms of sales, marketing and buying - which was, as you can imagine, a great learning school which I’m still very thankful for. After my years at Hardcore Supplies I joined Sole Technology Europe in 2011 as a sales rep for Etnies and Thirty Two. A great step up for me personally as I was finally able to work directly for the brands I was previously involved with. Sole Technology is a very inclusive company when it comes to its staff and this was something I noticed and appreciated in a very early stage. After three years in this role (and a short side step as Key Account manager at Converse/Nike Benelux) Don Brown and the rest of the Global brand team offered me the position of EMEA Sales manager, 42

which I proudly accepted. This was the time to truly learn everything about the European skate and streetwear market and to start working with all our great reps, agents and distributors. I stayed in this role for four years until the position for EMEA Marketing Manager for Emerica, Etnies and éS opened up. For me this was a great opportunity to get back to my marketing roots from my Hardcore Supplies days and combine that with the sales experience I gained as a sales rep, key account manager and sales manager. I guess that’s truly making sales and marketing work together, right? Please can you explain the organizational set up in Europe and who the key people are in the management team in Sole Tech recently. Through the EMEA office in Amsterdam we are servicing all of Europe, Middle East and South Africa. This is a mix of distributors and agents, pretty much a 50-50 split where the major markets like Germany, UK, Spain, Scandinavia, Austria, Netherlands, and South Africa are direct/agent markets. The EMEA office is responsible for sales, marketing, e-commerce and back office like finance, logistics and customer service. Sole Technology Europe is a nimble organization. At the top we have our GM Carlo Riswick, which our EMEA Sales Manager Hans Dijs and myself work closely together with on all things sales, marketing and product for the brands Etnies, Emerica and éS. For ThirtyTwo we have a dedicated European Brand manager, Dale Taylor. Last but not least we have our Country Manager in Germany, Franck Goulard.

Can you talk us through each brand's offering and how they work with each other through your portfolio? Talking about Emerica, éS and Etnies here: all 3 brands are managed separately from a Brand / Product and Marketing positioning with dedicated teams in the US to keep the brand identity clearly defined and distinguished. Regarding the brand offering itself, Etnies is our action sports lifestyle brand with strong roots in skateboarding. Collections obviously consist of skateboard shoes, where we strongly focus on making the most durable skate shoes together with our rubber partner Michelin. Etnies has always been very purpose driven, not only from a product perspective but also from an environmental perspective. In 2011 we launched our ‘Buy A Shoe Plant a Tree’ collection, where one tree will be planted for every pair purchased form this specific collection. We are currently on our way to hitting two million trees in 2020. For SP20 we will also introduce a new material called Bloom. Bloom Foam™ is the world’s first plant-based performance-driven foam formulated with algae biomass. Algae is taken and formulated into our EVA, which not only reduces waste but also controls the rise in algae growth that harms plants, animals and human life and greatly impacts aquaculture industries. Being one of the oldest true skateboard shoe brands we have a big heritage in OG skate shoes, which are currently very trending. These styles make up our ICONS collection. Emerica is the most core skateboard footwear brand in our portfolio; who doesn’t remember the video classics This is Skateboarding, Stay Gold, Made. It stands for rider driven footwear with a strong and consistent brand image. Emerica is 100% pure skateboarding, defying convention since 1996. Our offering consists mainly of signature models truly designed and developed together with the riders, created to withstand serious skateboarding abuse. For éS we have a very tight product offering which is clearly defined in two sections. Obviously a skateboard footwear section still with a big focus on performance and innovative design. Then there is a collection more focused on heritage styles and renewed / modernized styles influenced by the early 2000 skate shoe era, with for example styles like the Scheme and Silo. These styles are presently trending heavily in the sneaker and fashion world and we as a brand can’t wait to introduce the original 2000 era skate shoe to this new and young audience. What marketing initiatives are you running for your skate shoe brands in 2019/20? For Etnies we will continue to push our durability story with Michelin on the skateboard side, through our existing Marana and Joslin styles and newer styles for FA19 and SP20. We will combine this push with a skate tour in July as well as a new rider to announce for FA19. On the lifestyle side Winterized has our biggest focus for FA19. Moving into SP20 this focus will turn towards Buy a Shoe Plant a Tree and our new Bloom products. For Emerica our main focus on the marketing side is the team riders and their new signature product. Our European pride Kevin Baekkel will be having a signature colour coming out in FA19 and also Leo Romero will be introducing a complete new style. Going into SP20 we are introducing even more new styles with Dickson on both footwear and apparel. For éS obviously our marketing focus will be mostly on the retro inspired styles for the coming seasons, therefore our marketing efforts will be more focused towards lifestyle / streetwear. But we won’t forget our skateboarding roots, bringing the “original” éS Game of Skate back through grass root style events in collaboration with our loved skate shops. Oh yeah, don’t forget 2020 is 25 years of éS!

bigwig interview

In 2011 we launched our ‘Buy A Shoe Plant a Tree’ collection, where one tree will be planted for every pair purchased form this specific collection. We are currently on our way to hitting two million trees in 2020. Let's talk about ThirtyTwo - huge news with the addition of Nicolas Müller to the snow team this winter. Could you talk us through your setup there? How are you targeting different types of snowboarders? Yeah this is great news indeed, Nicolas is awesome! For Europe, as mentioned earlier in this interview, we have a European Brand Manager taking the lead in sales and marketing for ThirtyTwo. Where possible I assist Dale on the marketing side; for example at tradeshows, clinics and the well-known ThirtyTwo Boot camp which we organized last January in Nicolas’ backyard - Laax, Switzerland. Over the years ThirtyTwo has become known mostly for freestyle/ park/street type of riding, but the focus of the brand has always been the innovative product itself which - depending on what you choose - can be used for all sorts of riding. To break that cycle we introduced living freeride legend Jeremy Jones to the team a couple of years back and created a collection around him with signature splitboarding boots and backcountry products. This has been very successful. By introducing Nicolas to the team I think we now have a strong variety of riders, from freeride to freestyle.

A lot of core stores are struggling or went out of business in the last five years, which is a very harsh reality. At the same time there are a lot of online-only and multi-door accounts expanding and mostly competing on a price level due to the transparency of the online business. As a brand is its very challenging to keep both parties happy, especially when you see how the landscape of competing footwear brands has changed so much as well during the last 10 years. Could you give us a summary of the skate shoe wholesale market, how this has changed in the last five years and where you see opportunities and threats moving forwards? From a retail point of view a lot has changed. A lot of core stores are struggling or went out of business in the last five years, which is a very harsh reality. At the same time there are a lot of online-only and multi-door accounts expanding and mostly competing on a price level due to the transparency of the online business. As a brand is its very challenging to keep both parties happy, especially when you see how the landscape of competing footwear brands has changed so much as well during the last 10 years. But there is definitely great opportunity there. The trend is turning more and more towards skateboard footwear again, not only the retro styles are doing well but in general we are seeing a greater demand for our brands. What are your key initiatives with core wholesale accounts? For Etnies, segmentation plays a big role. We make sure that our core accounts have an assortment that can compete with their global competitors - even to the extent that certain styles aren’t available on Etnies.com, only at these core retailers. For Emerica and éS this is a lesser concern, as they are very focused core brands and therefore mostly available at core retailers to begin with. On the event side of things we do local Game Of Skate events with retailers and support them in any way possible on local one off events. The connection between the shop and their riders is very important to us, and many of our current global riders we have found and met through them. The sales reps play a big role as well and we make sure they have the budget to flow riders locally and let us know who the next (Chris) Joslin might be. In the end it’s all about open communication throughout all parties involved; retailers, reps and headquarters. It’s the open door policy for all of us that makes it work. 43

ONEILL.COM

W O M E N ’ S S W I M W E A R S S /20

photo Rip Curl

The recent boom of the fitness industry, affordable international travel and increased body positivity has had a major impact on the women’s swimwear market. Report by Ruth Cutts.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

We’re

seeing an increasingly inclusive offering from the major swimwear brands with more plus size options and diverse textures and shapes than ever before. The notion of the ‘ideal beach body’ is on the way out, the notion that the beach is for everybody is well and truly in for SS20. The seasonality of the women’s swimwear market also appears to be a thing of the past with consumers seeking out warmer climates throughout the year.

MAT E R IA LS & DES I G N

SS20 is all about textures and thoughtful details as a point of difference. For Zealous, it’s the inclusion of a stylish textured, black knit fabric in their 2020 summer offering which ensures that they’re tapping into this trend. Body Glove have included a ribbed fabric in their Ibiza Group collection and Billabong are including a contemporary wavy fabric, chunky rib, ruffles and a one-piece option with a fashionable belt in their SS20 range. O’Neill are bringing a feminine charm to their collection with intricate lace detailing and a mini floral print to evoke a 70’s Californian charm. Volcom are including thoughtful details that elevate the familiar swim silhouette including ruffles, braiding and tunnels/casings and for Brunotti it’s all about lace, jacquard, luxury textures, velvet and rib fabrics. Roxy’s SS20 swim collection is a celebration of all things beach culture with the use of premium fabrics and lush textures alongside a range of matching go-to accessories to make every day at the beach a practical one. Protest are going crazy for fabrication techniques like seersucker (that has a ruched appearance) and smocking where embroidery is used to gather the

Consumers are looking for crossover products to enjoy the great outdoors in and the popularity of hybrid pieces such as surf suits, neoprene bikinis, surf leggings and rash vest swimsuits all signify the influence of the booming fitness industry today. fabric together which makes it stretchy and creates a flattering look - having a thicker fabric makes the skin look smoother and means there is less of a need for bust cups which is a popular option for consumers. Subtle details and diverse fabric textures can provide a welcome difference from the traditional Lycra options that have dominated the swimwear industry for years.

COLOURS & PRIN TS

Many brands are turning to nature for their colour palettes with earthy tones taking centre stage for Billabong and Boardies. Hurley have chosen to collaborate with a number of sources in their swimwear offering to create a dynamic and exciting range that crosses over with their wider apparel collection and links to their heritage as an American brand. For their ‘Lava’ collaboration they worked with renowned water photographer Clark Little to depict the beauty and power of Hawaiian nature and they worked with Hawaiian designer Sig Zane on certain products who helped design fresh, 45

retail buyer’s guide

Versatile, sports bra style tops have been the preferred choice for active women throughout the previous seasons and will feature heavily in SS20.

Hurley aren’t the only brand taking inspiration from their surroundings. Bower recently moved from their base in South-West France, and on their way to their new home they spent some time in Cavalaire-sur-Mer on the East coast of France. The kitsch and colourful vibes of this classic seaside resort inspired their SS20 collection so expect lots of loud colours and bold prints. Similarly, Zealous have always been inspired by their home base of Bali and its surrounding islands and therefore try to integrate tropical artworks such as their hand painted Monstera pattern and vibrant fauna prints. The big inspiration for Body Glove’s SS20 line was bold colours. Having the chance to travel around the world is integral for the brand so fruits, palm trees, tropical leaves and florals are a big part of their aesthetic. For Protest, prints are taking their place front and centre this season. The front print is in! Loud and proud, you’ll be seeing placed prints all over their collection with text also being used to add some quirky fun to their designs. O’Neill are also choosing to be bold in SS20 with animal prints (leopard, zebra) and bold multi-colour stripes making an impact. Volcom are bringing a stylish tie dye print sitting alongside their conversational tropical print and Rip Curl are channelling retro vibes with their Beach Nomadic range which takes inspiration from the liberty floral print of the 70s. This theme is a subtle mix of the abstract Matisse style, with the mini floral print working well alongside the new and on trend spritz orange hue.

S HAP ES

Consumers are looking for crossover products to enjoy the great outdoors in and the popularity of hybrid pieces such as surf suits, neoprene bikinis, surf leggings and rash vest swimsuits all signify the influence of the booming fitness industry today. They are also a versatile option for consumers allowing them to wear the same garment on the SUP and in the yoga class without it looking out of place.

photo Protest

colourful and floral prints paying tribute to the Hawaiian culture. In addition, they partnered with Pendleton Woollen Mills to celebrate America’s national parks. Through the collection, Pendleton and Hurley proudly support the work of the National Park Foundation to protect and enhance America's treasured places. This season, the collection is dedicated to the Crater Lake National Park in Oregon.

the brand’s goal was to “combine surfing and the adventurous spirit for those seeking the perfect wave, looking to share the authenticity of travel, or diving fully into nature’s wonder”. For Zealous, their Cowabunga and Signature Tops are ideal for surfing and work perfectly for yoga and the gym at the same time. These versatile, sports bra style tops have been the preferred choice for active women throughout the previous seasons and will feature heavily in SS20. Zealous use a lot of bar tacks in their bikini tops to ensure that they last as long as possible, even under heavy usage. Their Mermazing and Kahuna Tops, which are available up to cup size G, have increasing underbust band widths and a third layer of fabric for even more support for bigger sizes. The SS20 Roxy Sister Collection is all about athletics. It features modern pop colours on sporty cuts, with bold logos on premium fabrics. As Influencer and Partnership Manager Alena Jeangrand explains, “the collection celebrates the bold contemporary ROXY girl.” O’Neill’s most popular bottoms shape is their Maoi range which feels like a second skin in the water and even provides a flattering ‘butt lift’ effect for the wearer. In 2020, Hurley will present a new collection which will offer different levels of support and compression making it easy to find the perfect piece of swimwear adapted to a range of activities. The entire line is also made of a quick-drying fabric making it ideal to go from the beach to the street in a flash. The humble one-piece continues to make waves in the swimwear industry in SS20; Patagonia’s selection of Nanogrip swimsuits offers great function in the water whilst Rip Curl and Bower also both stated that onepieces were a big focus for them next season. Other popular shapes include sporty crop tops (Boardies) and high-waisted bottoms (Boardies, Protest) that create a flattering silhouette and provide enough coverage for the wearer to feel confident in the water.

SUSTAIN AB ILIT Y

photo Boardies

As eco-conscious millennials continue to increase their spending power, and issues like climate change, plastic pollution and unethical fashion processes continue to dominate the headlines and public campaign efforts, it’s likely that the demand for ‘greener’ products, will continue to grow. Brands simply can’t afford to ignore the inclusion of sustainable practices within their products with four fifths of consumers across the globe believing that companies should help improve the environment, according to a recent survey by Nielsen, and brands are responding with progressive policies and bold commitments.

Although the watersports market is still dominated by participation from the male segment, female participation is on the rise thanks to the increase in overall water-sports popularity and awareness of its health-benefits. More women than ever before are partaking in activity excursions with surf holidays, yoga retreats and SUP trips on the up. Women are therefore needing swimwear that provides support and assists these sporty pursuits. Picture used their expertise in wetsuits to build a crossover product that sits somewhere between swimwear and a swimsuit. Marie Cadars highlights that 46

Swimwear brands want to protect the very environments that they’re designed to be enjoyed in so pushing sustainable practices is a key focus for most. Boardies, Billabong, Roxy, Bower, Picture, Patagonia, Rip Curl, Volcom and Body Glove are all using innovative, recycled fabrics within their offering in a bid to offset their carbon footprint and reduce the use of polluting materials. And Zealous have committed to only HIGHLIGHTS using biodegradable and 1 Sustainability on the up plastic-free packaging whilst continuing their self2 One piece continues upward trend organised beach clean-ups 3 Swim / gym crossover pieces in Bali. 4 Earthy tones big for SS20

SURFER: JAMES JENKINS STEFFEN VOLLERT

H O V E R

G L I D E

L E A R N M O R E AT S L I N G S H OT S P O R T S . CO M

F S U R F

H Y D R O FO I L 1 9 / 20

photo Slingshots

It’s the new boardsports super hero that has come down to planet surf with its new super powers: effortless levitation, unparalleled fusion with the wave and infinite glide…Its Kryptyonite? “With great power comes great responsibility.” Hydrofoil Retail Buyer’s Guide Season 2 by David Bianic.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

To

understand the hydrofoil market, you have to see it in terms of the five sports that utilise it today: windsurfing, kitesurfing, SUP, surfing and wakeboarding. Jan Willem Mulder, Commercial Director of Naish at their European distributor Kubus Sports, anticipates “a steady turnover from kitesurfing, while in windsurfing we see a split to extreme racing foils and general easy-to-use Freeride foils.” As for foil surfing “its sold in countries with a strong culture/market”. For Slingshot, who cover all five disciplines, “surfing is one of the slowest markets to take off as people are yet to realise its full potential”, assures Jeff McKee, Brand Manager and ex-professional wakeboarder. This reticence from the customer base is simply due to the fact that “Foil SUP and surf are very difficult to master with their lower speeds,” reminds Serge Fraser, President of Crazy Foil, although “it’s a bit easier to put yourself in decent learning conditions on an SUP,” explains Lane Mead, President of Ke Nalu, mostly thanks to the upright stance and having the paddle to help stay balanced.

“Surfing is one of the slowest markets to take off as people are yet to realise its full potential.” Jeff McKee, Slingshot HYD ROFOILS: T HE MO R E TH E ME R R I E R …

The specific constraints of the various “foil sports” may have led brands to develop different fins, masts, fuselages and stabilisers but they’re all around the same architecture whose parts are interchangeable, even from one brand to another. This is how Slingshot have successfully rolled out their foil range, the Hoverglide model which has fins of different gauges according to usage with their Infinity 76 and 84 for surfing and SUP respectively. The customer can then further customise their setup with different stabilisers. Furthermore, the Shift Fuselage of the Hoverglide foil offers two positions to move the fin forward or backward and adjust the lift according to your standard and to its application. Lane from Ke Nalu confirms that changing the fin suffices to transform your foil, offering three models with different surface areas with the same dihedral shape: 580 (1084 cm2, big waves), 775 (1496 cm2, surf/SUP allround, small to medium waves) and 970 (1994 cm2, SUP downwind and

mini waves). On their end, Fanatic are offering four main packages: Aero Surf 1500, 2000 (short or long fuselage) and 2500 according to the standard and weight of the rider as well as the specific application (waves or downwind). Starboard’s range has three styles: Wave (speed), Wave Pro 9 (turns) and Ocean Surf (downwind and small waves at low speed), each on offer in two sizes: small and large. More simply, Mantafoils have based their products around two ranges, Mono (for beginners and average riders, which are stable and at a tight price) and Arrow (wind foil and kite foil for higher speeds). In equipment, the combination of aluminium mast/fuselage and carbon fin allows you to both keep the price down and offer an appropriate technical solution: the heavier weight of an aluminium mast compared to a carbon one allows you to retain more inertia and to move forwards for longer before needing to pump again, explains Jeff from Slingshot. Even simpler still, Ke Nalu are selling entry-level foils made of aluminium with a fibreglass fin that are aimed at increasing participant numbers.

FOILBOARD: SPECIFIC RAN GES

In the space of just over a year, the concept of two-in-one boards (SUP/ surf to ride with or without a foil) has mostly been left behind in favour of specific boards. An example of this is at Slingshot whose Skywalker (surf) and Air Strike (SUP) boards are aimed at newcomers with a design that allows the board to glide for longer before taking off, while the High Roller (surf) and the Outwit (SUP) take flight quicker and are reserved for more accomplished foil riders. The questions around safety for foils remain, as

"it’s a bit easier to put yourself in decent learning conditions on an SUP”. Lane Mead, Ke Nalu much for the actual riders as for others nearby. The first answer is a technical one: fins that have blunt edges and/or downturned tips to avoid too much of a slicing cut in the event of a collision. At Crazy Foil and Mantafoils they agree that wearing helmets and impact vests is highly recommended. But learning is still the most effective means of protection, like on the foilacademy.com platform by Slingshot where you can find lots of answers for all levels. Fanatic had already put the track in for them with a series of “How To” videos in the same vein. 49

THE CT-IV CLASSIC | MILKSHAKE COLLECTION Originally designed for skateboarding in the late 90s and became one of the best-selling skate shoes of all time. Re-released and re-imagined with new limited edition materials, and smaller sizes. Now available in your favourite milkshake colours; Banana Split, Blue Heaven, Purple Grape and Strawberry Sundae.

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M E N ’ S S T R E E T W E A R S S /20

photo Primitive

The hype around streetwear is at an all-time high. But instead of chasing fleeting trends, boardsports apparel brands are prioritizing sustainability and unique aesthetics. Spring/Summer 2020 Men’s Streetwear Retail Buyer’s Guide by Dirk Vogel.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

In

the early 1990s, skateboarders and snowboarders were often ridiculed for wearing oversized, super baggy pants. That was okay, because it was our dress code, our streetwear. And it certainly wasn’t for everyone. How the tables have turned: Today, everyone wants a piece of streetwear, from high fashion labels to investment bankers (equity firm Carlyle Group purchased 50 per cent of SUPREME for $500 million in 2018). Limited edition hoodies sell for $200 and are instantly worth $1500 and more on the apparel resale market, estimated to reach $41 billion per year in the U.S. by 2022 (ThredUp). The streetwear game is crazy, but boardsports brands are no longer playing along. “We believe that consumers are changing their mindset and looking for good, honest quality products that are manufactured with care and respect – our philosophy since day one,” said Mark Westmoreland, Creative Director at 19.91 Denim. The current emphasis on sustainability sends a clear message to consumers: Don’t buy disposable, fast-fashion apparel on the cheap because it takes a high toll on the environment. Instead, buy pieces that will last and remain cool for years – not just one season – and prepare to pay for quality. Price points in boardsports retail have crystallized around €35.00 for T-shirts, €59.00 for sweatshirts, €69.00 for button-up shirts, €89.00 for pants and denim, as well as upwards of €109.00 for jackets. Going into SS20, some brands are adjusting their pricing strategy. “We have elevated our whole line to move into the premium streetwear price points for next season,” said Joseph Janus, CEO and Creative Director at WeSC.

“Baggy pants, crazy logo on tees with crazy placement and fabrics from the ‘90s. If I look at Volcom, we are offering old logos and old styles with a modern twist.” Volcom Head Of Product Europe, Mathieu Santoni On that note, what’s trending out in the streets next season? Asked about the ‘hot’ outfit for SS20, Iriedaily Menswear Designer Björn Siegel offered: “Skate-related sneakers combined with loose-fitted chinos, hooded sweater and shirt jacket.” At Volcom, Head Of Product Europe Mathieu Santoni sees a trend toward, “baggy pants, crazy logo on tees with crazy placement and fabrics from the ‘90s. If I look at Volcom, we are offering old logos and old styles with a modern twist.” To stay ahead of the game, here are the three major men’s streetwear trends to watch in 2020:

1. L I G H T D E N I M

Prepare for jeans to take centre-stage in SS20 collections. And not just any kind of denim: “For trousers, light denim will set the tone for sure!” said Julian Wolf, Head of Marketing at Homeboy, adding: “Distressed denim like we saw on every single skinny jean will be the no-go of the season.” Mathieu at Volcom agrees that, “the washes need to be natural with no whiskers, not too much scratching, no holes.” True to the sustainability trend, brands are shifting away from treating their jeans with aggressive bleaches towards 51

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Yardage party shirts are on! In anticipation and readiness to tackle extreme partying, our party shirts employ the versatility of subtle stretch and breathable fabrications combined with head-turning custom prints.” Dan Preston, Global Apparel Design Manager, Globe enzyme washes and other subtle methods (see Materials). Paired with a crisp white tee and sneakers, light denim jeans create a go-to outfit for next summer: “Simple, timeless and easy!” said Björn at Iriedaily. Everyone wants a part of their wardrobe to have a certain level of flair – or ‘drip’ as the kids call it – in 2020. This can be a flashy pair of sneakers, or the second major trend: full-print button-up shirts in short- and long-sleeve variations with designs that turn the volume up to eleven. “Yardage party shirts are on! In anticipation and readiness to tackle extreme partying, our party shirts employ the versatility of subtle stretch and breathable fabrications combined with head-turning custom prints,” said Dan Preston, Global Apparel Design Manager at Globe pointing out SS20’s Psychotropics shirt with hand-made print patterns. Look for African-inspired and surf-style prints this coming season, next to Hawaiian styles and floral prints.

3. W I N D G E A R

Maybe it’s the 1990s resurgence or the ‘athletification’ of streetwear. “The trend that is taking over now is definitely wind gear,” said Joseph Janus at WeSC. Brands are headed into SS20 with technical windbreaker jackets featuring 1990s style colour blocking and athletic panelling. WeSC actually likes to go all-in and offers a range of full track suits, plus shorts and jacket combos: “For next season, I think the must-have looks are head-to-toe hookups.” Iriedaily is on the same page with fresh wind gear in urban colourways, Reell launches the Modular Tech Jacket and Globe has the Throwback Pack inspired by classic skate DNA for next season. DC Shoes unrolls some nice athletic pants and at Primitive, Senior Apparel Designer Andre Beauvais is stoked on the MACBA Pant, “a classic lightweight nylon track pant with embroidered and printed branding.”

photo Iriedaily

2. F U L L - P R I N T B U T T O N - U P S

our range, and better anatomically shaped fits.” Björn at Berlin-based Iriedaily also confirmed: “Fits for tops and bottoms are getting more loose.” As a highlight among tops, WeSC sees the, “trucker fit jacket with lots of focus on patchwork coming into trend.” Pant legs are tapered and worn long, sagging over the sneakers or rolled up. In the shorts segment, consumers are moving away from technical boardshorts. “They just need good trunks and reasonable prices,” said Mathieu at Volcom.

M AT ERIALS: LIGH T WEIGH T & SUSTAIN ABLE

“As it is a spring collection we use of lot of lighter fabrics,” said Palle at streetwear label RVLT. Aside from lightweight denim and breezy cotton blends, SS20 also brings an influx of sports-inspired materializations. “Materials are a lot of nylons and reflective performance fabrics. As far as textures go, a lot of creped fabric and moisture-repellent materials as well,” said Andre at Primitive. Jesse at Reell is on the same page: “Functionality plays a more vital role than before, so 90 per cent of our jackets are water resistant and breathable.“ In a major upset, corduroy as a classic coldweather fabric finds its way into summer collections, for instance Homeboy’s classic baggy pants or military-inspired jackets by Piilgrim. “The way light hits heavy wale corduroy is a thing of beauty!” said Piilgrim owner Mark Kendrick. Piilgrim also uses organic cotton in their 100 per cent vegan collections in line with SS20’s sustainability focus. “We use recycled and re-salvaged fabrics that we work into items, notably the turn-ups of our Highway trousers. Everything we use is built to last. Trousers for life, not just for a season.” Volcom has launched the New Future program to implement sustainable fabrics like recycled polyester and organic cotton while using sustainable washes to save water. On the manufacturing side, Mathieu at Volcom highlights, “removing de-sizing step, removing softener bath, combining de-size and enzyme wash, PP spray on raw garment and ozone replacing bleaching.” At 19.91 Denim, all “cotton is BCI-approved which isn’t something we like to shout about as this should be the standard for every clothes manufacturer.” As a cool innovation, Reell introduces an RFID-blocking back pocket in the Shield Pant.

photo Reel Jeans

COLOURS & PRIN TS: SUBT LE & FUN

FITS & SILHOU E T T ES: G E T LO O S E

Lead Designer Jesse Weijers at Reell sums up SS20’s fits with: “Freedom to move! It’s about the balance between sport, streetwear, comfort and functionality. This translates into renewed flexible lightweight fabrics across

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Asking around streetwear brands, the colour trend for 2020 is simple: pastels! Brands use pastels to create a subtle foundation, including lots of soft yellows, blues and reds, for adding some splashes with contrasting colour accents. For Palle at RVLT, the motto is: “Don’t be basic, combine colours and patterns!” Piilgrim pairs monochromatic exteriors with heavily patterned linings. As the major pattern trend, horizontal stripes in all shapes and forms are on the horizon for SS20. Dan at Globe says, “Stripe tees are again an essential item this spring, in clean and uncomplicated designs that will be worn time and time again and perfect for layering under a check shirt and under a jacket. Ours feature clean stripes with minimal embroidered logos in our relaxed and classic fits.” Also get ready for large photo prints, tie-dye and dip-dye for that special hippie flavour and graphic HIGHLIGHTS design with Japanese inspirations. Mark at 1 Sustainability and transparency Piilgrim also identifies 2 Light denim and corduroy “more attention to detail being put into garments, 3 Party shirts small embroideries and 4 Athletic wind gear features to make items special.” 5 Recycled fabrics 6 Pastels and horizontal stripes

HOTOGRAPHY - BEN MONK (BEN MONK.COM)

THE BELT LOOP

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JEANS - THE STANDARD BLACK WARNING (AT YOUR LOCAL SKATESHOP)

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S U R F S K AT E 2 0 1 9

photo Carver

With deep hooks into both surf and skate culture, the Surf Skate phenomenon has been building buzz over the past few seasons. Time for a special report by SOURCE Skateboard Editor Dirk Vogel.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

Surf’s up!

Everywhere around the world, riders are replicating the thrills of wave riding on concrete ground. Armed with extra wide skateboards on ultra-loose trucks, they’re getting their kicks on back alleys, banked driveways and drainage ditches. It’s all part of the Surf Skate phenomenon currently emerging as a new category in skate hardware. “Surf skates are the new big trend in the longboards market. From all our brands, YOW has been the one experiencing the biggest growth,” said Xué Gil, Brand Manager at Spanish brand YOW (Your Own Wave). “The accessibility and easy approach to Surf Skate, along with the exploding surf market, really gives everyone an opportunity to have fun and surf the streets, whether you are landlocked, the waves are flat, or you just want that surfy feeling under your feet,” said brand founder Neil Carver at Carver Skateboards, whose biggest growth segment right now are female riders. Steve Douglas at Rolling Thunder Distribution (OP Skateboards) said: “From avid surfers to surfer wannabe’s to older guys that just want to keep the momentum and balance going. It really reaches a broad demographic.” At Flying Wheels, Benoit Brecq has seen the audience evolve: “At the beginning the market was for surfers looking to improve their surf tricks when the waves weren’t good. Now more and more people are using Surf Skates because the surfing sensation is really close to real surfing in water.”

“At the beginning the market was for surfers looking to improve their surf tricks when the waves weren’t good. Now more and more people are using Surf Skates because the surfing sensation is really close to real surfing in water.” Benoit Brecq, Flying Wheels Other brands shun the skateboarding connection entirely, including SmoothStar: “Ninety-nine percent of our customers are surfers and don’t really skate or have little experience in skating. SmoothStar is a 100 percent pure surf company, in fact we remove all relevance of ‘skate’ from our brand,” said Rhett Hookham, International General Manager at SmoothStar, who hosts surf training events on surf simulators to teach proper technique. “Some customers want to just generate the speed and think that’s surfing. In 2018, we called this the ‘European Wiggle’ and it has stuck. Wiggling is NOT surfing; it’s just wiggling your feet back and forth without any movement from your upper body. Upper body movement controls what is under your feet with both Surf Skate and surfing.”

WAR N IN G: K N OW YO UR AUD IE NC E !

The trend definitely provides shops with an opportunity to potentially sell to a new kind of customer. But as a word of warning, stores should really know their audience and prepare to dedicate significant floor space before doubling down on Surf Skate. Asked about the main audience, many brands see the category aimed at surfers first, skaters second. According to Dave Gitlin, Senior Skateboard Designer at Globe, Surf Skate attracts “mostly people that have surfed before up to novice and amateur surfers. People that are choosing these boards know the feeling of pumping to get down the line or taking hacks at lips and are looking for some interpretation of that when they’re not in the water.”

M ARKET: RISE OF A N EW CAT EGORY

From a market perspective, brands are taking Surf Skate seriously and many have been doing so for years, way ahead of the trend. Original Surf Skate brand Jucker Hawaii, who already created a 360-degree single wheel rotational truck as early as 2010, even secured the name “Skatesurfer” in Germany. Carver has been selling surf-inspired skateboards since 1996 and founder Neil Carver points out: “While there may be a superficial similarity to cruisers or longboards, Surf Skate is distinct from other categories because of its true surf performance!” The Slide brand by Sancheski was 55

retail buyer’s guide

started in 2010 but at the time, “retailers saw it as a strange product that they didn’t quite understand. It was easier to introduce in places near the seaside with a strong surf culture,” said Slide Product Developer Iciar Sánchez. In light of the current trend, Dave at Globe sees Surf Skate as its own unique category: “It’s added additional sales and attracted customers that are in it for a different reason than most cruiser and longboard customers.” Andreas “Maui” Maurmeir, European Marketing Manager at Sector 9 said: “At the end of the day, we talk about sidewalk surfing. And since day one, sidewalk surfing is the very essence of what we do at Sector 9 Skateboards. We wouldn't segment the market on only the name Surf Skate.” Instead, Maui advocates a quiver approach, with riders stocking a variety of boards for various riding styles: “The quiver is the key. It really is like in surfing. Different waves different boards, different streets different skates.”

“The quiver is the key. It really is like in surfing. Different waves different boards, different streets different skates.” Andreas “Maui” Maurmeir, Sector 9

“While there may be a superficial similarity to cruisers or longboards, Surf Skate is distinct from other categories because of its true surf performance!” Neil Carver, Carver

Speaking of boards, ready-to-ride complete skateboards are the Surf Skate category’s lifeblood. And what specifically makes a skateboard a ‘surf skate’? First of all, responsive and carve-friendly trucks that offer a tight turning radius and the ability to ‘pump’ for speed (see Trucks). Second, riders want wide-bellied decks offering plenty of space to plant their feet. Steve Douglas at OP Skateboards sums it up: “Wider short boards, 30-inch by 9-inch with different type tails, from squash to swallow tails. The constructions are basic wood plies but there is certainly room to evolve into more flexible constructions, with bamboo, fibreglass, and so on.” The team at Miller Division emphasized, “a wider tail bump for increased back foot leverage in bowls and ramps”, while Carver incorporates a Hyperspoon concave mould and Globe implements Fiber-Carve in decks for added rebound. For instant entry into the category, customers can choose from a variety of Surf Skate completes from brands like Carver (Triton, Channel Islands, Lost), Globe (Costa, Onshore Series), Ocean Pacific (Sunset, Dawn), Sector 9 (Crescent, Flux, Nectar), Flying Wheels (Belza, Ventura, La Jolla), Jucker Hawaii (Mini Pono, Pau Hana cruiser), Slide (Grom, Fish Tuna, Amuitz), Miller Division (Pablo Solar, Kirra, Mundaka), Mindless (Surf Skate completes), Slide (Gussie 31, Fish 32, Diamond), Smoothstar (Mini Grom, Flying Fish, Filipe Toledo) and YOW (Pipe, Teahupoo, Aritz Aranburu). Starting at around €150 and with a pricing sweet spot at €230 for premium quality, these beauties deliver ‘surfy’ board shapes, nimble trucks and soft wheels straight off the shelf. For kids, Carver offers the Triton series while Mike at Jucker Hawaii recommends ‘rip sticks’ for kids who are too small to put proper weight on the ‘surf trucks’.

TRUCKS: T HAT SU RF Y F E E L I NG

photo Smoothstar

On the subject of trucks, the biggest innovative push in the segment comes from surf-style trucks implementing springs or extra bushings. These trucks are usually mounted in the front: “The tail truck is standard, working as a

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photo Slide

COMP LE T ES: SU R F -READY B OAR D S

pivot, which allows the nose truck to shift left and right as the rider moves their weight between rails, allowing more dramatic transitions from one side to the other, delivering that smooth surf ‘feel’”, said Steve Douglas at OP Skateboards. Globe has developed Revenge Alpha II trucks, featured as standard in its Onshore Series: “Their patented design produces a supertight turning radius and super-quick rebound giving you a fluid ‘down the line’ pump and on-dime hacks. And they’ve got that locking mechanism that eliminates wheel bite.” Miller Division’s latest XRKP II truck boasts 12 percent more turn angle than its predecessor and eight-hole baseplates. Flying Wheels offers the single-pivot Capitol truck and close-angle geometry STR truck for Surf Skate. Spanish brand YOW has based an entire line around surf-style front trucks and brand manager Xué Gil explained: “Our trucks feature a torsion spring system, which gives skaters a very fluid ride.” Carver’s C5, CX, and C7 truck sets and kits allow any skateboard, and especially those retro re-issues, to be converted to a Surf Skate. Sector 9’s sister brand Gullwing features the Sidewinder Trucks with their patented Double Kingpin System and soft Marshmellow Bushings equally from Gullwing. Maui says: “The biggest difference with the Sidewinder Trucks is that you have to install the same truck twice and not just one special design up front.”

WH EELS & ACCESSORIES: UPGRADE TO SURF SKAT E

In terms of wheels, Surf Skate is a matter of personal preference. Highlights include Globe 78a Conical Cruiser and 78a Roundabout wheels, Sector 9 69 mm Top Shelf and 58mm Nineballs, Flying Wheels 78A Climax and 83A Bumper and Carver Roundhouse 81A Ecothane wheels. Andy King at Mindless recommends: “Our new Mindless Viper Wheels are pure all-rounders. Ideal from downhill runs to hitting your local ledge. Centre set core makes coning a thing of a past.” The best news for beginners is that the Surf Skate experience can be added to existing boards via custom upgrade kits. First in line is Flying Wheels with the Lombard Base plate for use with traditional trucks: “It’s the Ultimate Evolution in our surfin’ series. A spring compression baseplate allows maximum truck tilt. You can convert your classic longboard skate to a Surf Skate thanks to this baseplate.” Kits have also done well for Your Own Wave: “We offer HIGHLIGHTS our system, which can be installed 1 No.1 trend in longboards in any kind of board, using any kind of trucks. Making your existing set2 Mostly surf audience up a Surf Skate.” Slide has perfected 3 Focus on complete boards its third-generation front and rear trucks and Mindless sells the Surf 4 Wide, stubby decks Skate truck set, “with risers and 5 Specialized ‘surf trucks’ bolts that make it possible to turn any deck from 8.5 to 9.5 inches into 6 Soft wheels a Surf Skate.” With that said, let’s 7 ‘Surf Skate’ upgrade kits wait and see how many customers will hop onto the Surf Skate wave.

THE ORIGINAL SURFSKATE SINCE 1996

carverskateboards.com

welcome to the

SCHOOL OF LIFE

L I F E S T Y L E B A C K PA C K S 1 9 /2 0

photo EVOC

Backpacks are no longer merely an afterthought for consumers. The trend in bags is focused on diversity and individualism which is reflected in the wide variety of styles and trends that are now available in a very dynamic market. A study by Ruth Cutts.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

“The

category of bags and backpacks is getting more important overall. What for a long time used to be just a necessity is more and more becoming an item to express your personality and lifestyle. The bag someone is wearing tells a lot about a person and bags become more and more a centrepiece to express your lifestyle,” explains Heimplanet’s CEO Stefan Clauss. For many, backpacks are a gateway product to tap into a whole new customer demographic – a trick that had maybe been overlooked for too long. Miya Howells, Senior Global Product Merchandiser for Burton highlights how “bags allow [Burton] to reach customers that might be unfamiliar with Burton or snowboarding and invite them into our brand”. For others, successful backpack sales have allowed them to explore other avenues. For a bag-specific brand such as Herschel they tapped into a market at a time when, as Communications Manager Michael Africa claims, “backpacks were boring and we wanted to make bags that no one else at the time was making”. Their success in the backpack market has allowed them to expand into luggage, apparel, and headwear.

TRE N DS

Adventure Tourism has seen exponential growth in recent years with more and more people spending their leisure time in nature than ever before (between 2010 and 2014, the adventure tourism industry grew by 195%, according to UNWTOs “Global Report on Adventure Tourism” 2014). Philipp Kloeters, Head of PR at Fjällräven International, highlights how backpacks are the “start of any good adventure. Whether it be a day hike close to home or a week-long expedition in a remote wilderness, a backpack allows you to carry all you need (and sometimes even a few little luxuries). It’s the starting point for making memories in the outdoors”. The common denominator for backpacks in SS20 is creating a top-quality, technical product with an aesthetic that would look as comfortable in the city as it would in the wilderness. “People are using their packs for everything - commuting by foot, by bike and then using the same pack for the mountain if they’re just packing their water bottle, some extra base layers or sunglasses and other accessories” explains Amplifi’s Head of Design Tom Howells, which is why the brand are leveraging their knowledge of snow and mountain sports to create attractive leisure packs that can be used every day. Heimplanet are introducing packs that combine high-end materials with just the right amount of technical solutions for everyday use

and Burton are shifting away from heritage designs to more clean, minimal, and function driven designs. Many packs are now being specifically designed for the contemporary phenomenon of the ‘digital nomad’. The need for technical materials that can withstand the harshest of weather conditions whilst also ensuring the safety of £1000s worth of tech equipment is something exemplified by the inclusion of certain key features in many SS20 designs. For Picture, one of their key products within their range is the Atlant 18l backpack which boasts technical features designed for the mountains alongside additional features such as a 13” laptop sleeve and an easy-access accessories storage unit which can carry elastic cords to make it easy to use whether you’re reaching the peak or riding the streets. Nitro’s Nikuro model has all the features needed for effective organization on the go; the interior is clean and structured to fit a laptop or tablet, notebook or mobile phone. There is a thermo pocket to keep drinks cool and additional zip pockets for wallets, keys, chargers and everyday gear whether you’re heading to the office or going on a trip. Similarly, Evoc’s MISSION PRO model has features that allow you to combine your job with the ultimate adventure. The quick-access back compartment is padded with high-quality, embossed, soft-touch material and offers enough space for a 15-inch laptop, while the main compartment features several dividers for magazines or documents. Your passport, mobile phone, pens, memory cards and necessities go in the backpack’s “to go” desk drawer, so to speak meaning that no matter how remote your travel destination may be: if there is internet you can combine your job with the ultimate adventure. The current buzz around mini bags is also a result of this urban/wilderness paradox that we’re seeing. Eastpak’s ‘Springer’ model and OID’s ‘Sporan’ are both key products in their SS20 offerings, aimed at those that want to carry their essentials in an alternative way such as sat on their hip or across their bodies.

T ECH N ICAL F EAT URES

The focus for all backpack brands is the need for comfort when carrying heavier loads. Therefore, padded back panels and straps, ventilated mesh backing, and fully adjustable shoulder and waist straps are essential features. Herschel are choosing to adopt the “sleeper car” philosophy 59

with their products; an unassuming exterior with a high-performance and feature laden interior. Many of their backpacks are designed with water bottle pockets which feature an internal gusset that expands so to not take away from the bags form. The niche adventure brands however are also including advanced technical innovations that appeal to those customers spending time in the wilderness. For Pacsafe, their USP is their patented Anti-Theft Technology which keeps the contents of the bag safe and secure. Their new women´s Cruise Collection provides peace of mind when travelling thanks to their in-built features such as their new, easy to use smart security hook that is ergonomically designed for females. OID are the only brand on the market that feature IPS (Impact Protection System) in their offering which protects your valuables when you’re on the move. Herschel are choosing to adopt the “sleeper car” philosophy with their products; an unassuming exterior with a high-performance and feature laden interior. Many of their backpacks are designed with water bottle pockets which feature an internal gusset that expands so to not take away from the bags form. As a surf brand, O’Neill’s focus is inevitably on watersports. In their SS20 range that offer a small, fully waterproof backpack that can easily be used on SUP, kayak or when kitesurfing allowing you to take your valuables safely out onto the water. A new feature that Dakine want to shout about is the introduction of their fully waterproof zippers that have been built into their surf-specific backpacks. “We aren’t a cooler company or a water bottle brand making packs. We are a surf brand that makes the best products for surfers” claims the brand. Burton are building on their AK Incline collection with the introduction of their AK Ultralight pack that is not only made out of durable and lightweight Dyneema and X-Pac material, but that also includes snow-specific features such as; an external stowable water bottle pocket which can be tucked away when it’s not in use (avoiding it being ripped or getting filled up with snow or pine needles on the mountain), perforated air mesh straps (lightweight and breathable) and an Aeropro trampoline back panel which reduces sweat by minimizing the bag’s contact with your back while being integrated into the bag so you don’t get snow stuck.

COLOURS & STYLE

photo Nitro

With the crossover trend being so key in SS20, many brands are choosing street-inspired, minimalist designs that cater to those wanting to use their backpacks in a range of environments. Stealthy black and anthracite are big sellers for Amplifi, combined with banging colour hits on the lining and other key places to give the packs a little lift without being too showy. Whist Eastpak are bringing an even deeper offering to their famous Padded Pak’r design with the inclusion of enriched mélange items like the MUTED MELANGE collection, giving a little diversity to their classic black option. CabinZero’s Daniel Burman explains how their customers are loving their huge array of colours, in particular their range of ultra-light designs, which offer a point of difference from their overly featured performance packs – these bags can be “an expression of their personalities”. Almost in contradiction however, Herschel are noticing a huge resurgence in 90s sport colour-blocking and a comeback of rave culture. For SS20, they’re focusing on neon colours, dynamic prints, and specialty fabrics that all tie back to that time period, reinterpreted

60

photo Eastpak

retail buyer’s guide

Your passport, mobile phone, pens, memory cards and necessities go in the backpack’s “to go” desk drawer, so to speak meaning that no matter how remote your travel destination may be: if there is internet you can combine your job with the ultimate adventure.

Picture have worked on eco-innovation and alternatives to polluting materials and therefore, every single bag from their product line is made using recycled polyester and/or organic cotton that is made in ethical factories. through a modern lens. 2020 marks their 10-year anniversary so they’ll be looking back over the last ten years and bringing back some of their greatest hits with new twists. “We’re referencing our past for inspiration but want it to feel new and exciting” says Communications Manager Michael Africa. For surf-specific brand Dakine, their colour palette is concerned with more than just aesthetics. Their bags that are designed for use in tropical climates require lighter hues to keep the bag from getting too hot and their cold water climates gravitate towards darker colours.

M AT ERIALS

A sustainable focus continues to be key for many brands in SS20 when it comes to their material choices. Heimplanet have introduced a new fabric for their Transit Line, called DYCOSHELL. This fabric is woven out of two different dope dyed yarns which means they can eliminate the dyeing process. DYCOSHELL is therefore their most environmentally friendly and energy efficient fabric. Pacsafe are doing their part to reduce plastic waste, by using 100% recycled PET fabric in their newest collection of bags with their new colour ‘Coyote’ being made from 100% recycled plastic bottles. Burton have set stringent sustainability goals which means that they’ve been updating materials and trims to make the majority of their line Bluesign approved. Their Solution Dyed yarns use 80% less water and produce 63% lower CO2 emission compared to conventional dying processes. Solution dyed yarns are fully saturated in colour versus traditional dying which just colours the outside of the yarn and can fade and change through washing, ensuring bright, vibrant colours while being more sustainable. Since their inception, Picture have worked on eco-innovation and alternatives to polluting materials and therefore, every single bag from their product line is made using recycled polyester and/or organic cotton that is made in ethical factories. Nitro have teamed up with DEINGORILLA.COM, an organisation promoting a sustainable lifestyle, healthy foods and sports in schools and in SS20 their Nikuro bag and pencil case will be available in a special GORILLA design with 10Euro per bag going towards the GORILLA foundation. When it comes to durability, brands are keen to offer innovative materials that ensure long-lasting protection against wear and tear without compromising on weight or increasing cost. For AW19/20 Fjällräven introduced a new, extra durable fabric called Bergshell. For SS20 they’ve expanded the use of Bergshell in their range and introduced new backpacks that feature this waterproof material made from a combination of filament yarn and air textured yarn to create a fabric that has both highabrasion strength and high-tear strength. Their new High Coast Foldsack 24 is a light, versatile daypack made from waterproof 100% recycled nylon. CabinZero are working HIGHLIGHTS with some feather-weight, ultra1 Portable desk waterproof materials for their dry bags in 2020 which, when 2 Clean, minimal, and functional empty, won’t even feel like you 3 Security on the rise are carrying a backpack. As Daniel Burman explains, “we like 4 Bumbags a go go avoiding check-in and offering 5 Eco conscious production max carry-on bags”.

MADE FROM RECYCLED FISHING NETS

AND OTHER DISCARDED NYLON Hall C6 Stand 402 30th June – 3rd July

HANGING SHOES 2020

photo Cool Shoes

For many brands, the inclusion of crossover designs that work just as well at the beach as they do in the city is paramount. The sector of Hanging Shoes has always catered to those living, or visiting, the coast but stylish designs that deviate from the traditional flip flop are seemingly making waves. Merel Werners, Marketing Director of Havaianas explains how their “Beach to City initiative is starting to pay off, as [they] see more and more people wearing [their] sandals and flip flops in nonbeach locations, i.e. to school, to go shopping, work and more”. By Ruth Cutts.

retail buyer’s guide

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

The

seasonality of hanging shoes is also seemingly on the way out with the increased affordability of flights mean that consumers are travelling more and holidaying out of season. Casual styles are on the up and the ‘ugly’ trend of pairing summer sandals with socks when the weather gets cooler means that hanging shoes are certainly not a category to be overlooked going forward.

Hurley are ensuring maximum durability with a variety of manufacturing processes based on the desired function of the product. Their uppers incorporate various cut and sew techniques, embossing, TPU films, and a handful of styles have injection moulded straps, midsoles and footbeds in key abrasion areas to increase durability.

TRE N D S

Many brands are opting for non-animal-based product materials in their designs with Cool Shoes trying to introduce more vegan leather options in their offering alongside traditional suede, nubuck or crazy horse within their ‘supreme’ range. Hurley, as part of Nike Inc. work in collaboration with Nike on their technologies, integrating the Nike Lunarlon technology in the sole of their top tier sandals, the Lunar Sandals, to make these their most comfortable sandals yet. Since this material was developed for running, the foam is incredibly comfortable, lightweight and does not degrade (pack out) which is typical of traditional soft foams. Flojos recently introduced a new material called MEMEX which is a cushy technology with memory foam that is water-resistant and feels comfortable underfoot for increased durability.

The continuing mantra of ‘realistic dressing’ means that comfort is key for consumers. An uncomplicated aesthetic with a sporty twist is proving popular with brands such as O’Neill and Sinner highlighting that sliders will continue to be big for them in SS20. Boukje Bontenbal, Product Manager of Sinner highlights that “slides are definitely not only for adults or cool kids” with the inclusion of a range of baby and child sliders within their range. O’Neill’s offering of sliders also caters to a wide demographic with knitted, towelling, PU, EVA, woven and platform options in SS20. Other brands are looking retrospectively for inspiration in their SS20 collections. Cool Shoes, for example, have focused on the early 80s; “from the Californian to the French beach culture, the memories of surf trips and all the cities which are on the seaside” explains Designer Jeremy Lagrost. Havaianas are playing on the popular 90s revival that we’re seeing with features such as a thick, unisex strap appearing in their designs.

MAN U FAC T U RIN G

The humble hanging shoe needs to strike that fine balance of style, durability and price if it is going to prove successful. When it comes to the actual manufacturing of many SS20 Hanging Shoes, the focus is most definitely on producing a quality product, with brands such as Flojos and Cool Shoes still opting for handmade processes. Cool Shoes ensure that all the materials used are free of chemical products and that all their sandals feature REACH certification which guarantees a safe sandal for the consumer.

M AT ERIALS & T ECH N OLOGIES

COLOURS

To create a cohesive link between their footwear offerings and their main apparel collections, brands such as O’Neill, Hurley, and Havaianas are pushing ‘mix and match’ crossover colour palettes to allow consumers to co-ordinate head to toe if they so wish. Since footwear needs to go with a lot of different looks and clothes, classic colour ranges including black, brown, tan and grey stay popular in SS20. As a point of difference, brands like Sinner are using neon colours, metallic details and colour-blocking insoles in their SS20 range and Flojos are introducing warm and bright colours such as sunset, coral, aqua and lemon combined with dark shades to bring excitement without being overpowering. 63

Surf Out Portugal 2nd Edition

21 - 22 SEP

FIARTIL /// ESTORIL

NETWORKING /// BUSINESS & TRADE BRANDS /// TALKS /// SURFBOARDS SURF WEAR /// SUSTAINABILITY LIVE SHAPE /// INNOVATION FOOD & DRINKS /// SURF FILMS MUSIC /// ART

SURFOUTPORTUGAL.PT

brand profile

Coming from the people who brought us hype surfboard brand torq, comes the second brand from the International Surf Alliance (ISA) stable with the introduction of ROAM. Producing board covers, leashes and traction pads the brand, headed up by ISA’s Sebastian Wenzel, looks to capitalize on the wholesale market, which they say is being neglected by bigger brands chasing DTC sales. The ISA is a group of international surf distributors and Sebastian explains how their decades of experience is allowing them to provide great products at great prices, while putting the retailer front of mind.

Please give an overview on how and why the company began? Please explain your ties with ROAM. ROAM is the second product line to come from the ISA, or International Surf Alliance. We are a group of international surf distributors who joined forces to create great products, build new brands and make use of our combined business capabilities. Our first project – torq surfboards is now well established and highly successful. ROAM is our latest project developed on the same key attributes of quality product, great branding, stable worldwide distribution and great pricing. Who is on the management team, and what are their backgrounds? Sebastian Wenzel (me), is the General Manager and is working in close collaboration with the ISA

shareholders. Sebastian has been creating and running torq surfboards since the start and has a long background in surfing, windsurfing and SUP. How is the European surf market at present? We see a lot of good things in the European market and have extremely positive feedback. What are the key opportunities and threats? We see the biggest threat in large brands going direct – but as a threat to themselves. This leaves the opportunity for brands like us who make a policy of not selling direct to build relationships with the retailers and secure longlasting partnerships. What sets you apart from your competitors? Our key belief is working on the retailer to customer chain. This is a formula that has built torq into one of the largest and strongest brands in Europe. We see the retailer as the vital link to the customer, so we put a lot of energy into our retailers, whether through sustainable supply, stable pricing, good margins, marketing support or no direct selling. We are one of the few accessory brands who do not sell direct to the consumer but support the retailer. Where are you manufacturing? Currently all of our products are manufactured in China by very selected suppliers. Our collective businesses have sourced products from China for the last few decades, so by working together we are able to find the right partners, to make sure that quality and price are the best and guarantee full customer satisfaction. How do you support athletes and boardsports? ROAM was launched in January 2019 and the

first products are just entering the surf shops. We are just beginning our grass roots program to support local riders and support retailer sales. In the future we will establish an international team and support national team riders. Why should retailers sell your brand? There are some very good reasons to sell ROAM: 1. ROAM offers a high-quality product for a good price 2. ROAM offers good margin for the retailer 3. ROAM is supported by a global distribution network 4. ROAM does not sell online from the brand website 5. ROAM provides a turnkey solution to the retailer. For example, in our download area, we supply product pictures of every product, in different resolutions, formats, etc. What do you see for the future of the industry? We see a period of great opportunity through natural destabilization from external forces. The evolving marketplace is one where brands who can offer the full product, price and promotion package in sustainable partnerships with retailers will gain market share. ROAMSURF.COM 65

brand profile

PRIMITIVE Paul Rodriguez’s Primitive skate brand has gone from strength to strength over the years and we’ve caught up with the brand to find out more about the people behind the brand and to talk about their European operations. Please give an overview of how and why the company began? Primitive began in 2008 as a Los Angeles based skateboard, streetwear and sneaker boutique. Our Primitive branded tees and hats quickly became the top selling items shortly after opening. This success inspired us to expand our product range and take the leap into wholesale. We now have a full fledged custom apparel and skateboarding business with support from retailers and distributors worldwide. Please tell us who is managing the brand. There are many people at the helm of Primitive but a lot of direction comes from CEO Jubal Jones and President of Skate, Heath Brinkley. We also have our CFO Mitch Bhatia and of course the man with the plan Paul Rodriguez. With that said, there's a giant collective here. All opinions are respected and valued at Primitive which is a huge asset to our success and constant growth. What is the company ethos and how do you differentiate yourself from your competition? What sets Primitive apart from most of our “competition” is the fact that we don’t really look at others competitively. We pride ourselves on being as genuine and authentic as possible, without outsider influence. We stay true to the brand’s core values and continue to evolve our own story. Please explain your distribution strategy in Europe. Maintain healthy growth and partner with people who understand your operation. Since the beginning we've always taken time to visit the European market. Hearing the needs of distributors first-hand and connecting on a personal level is priceless. Who’s on your athlete team and how are they helping to push the brand? Style matters over everything else. This outlook

has attracted a world skate class team that transcends medals, technical tricks, or here today gone tomorrow trends. Our two recent additions, JB Gillet and Tiago Lemos, are perfect examples of timeless style. Founder/Owner Paul Rodriguez embodies our considered approach. Every rider has a unique story grounded in their passion for skateboarding. We really couldn't ask for a better group of people to fly the Primitive flag. What other marketing are you running? On the apparel front, we do our best to tell unique stories for each drop rather than just your average product postings. We challenge ourselves to create engaging content every time. Why should retailers sell your brand? We try to think of that question a little differently. Primitive isn’t just trying to sell to retailers. Along with our product, we are creating moments that can resonate with people on a deeper level. We want longevity more than simply being placed on an end table. When people pick up Primitive, we genuinely believe they’re seeing a brand that represents much more than consumerism. Please tell us which distributors you are using in Europe. There are many European Distributors that support the Primitive brand. To name a few, we've got Nineteen76 in the UK, V7 in France, Mosaic in Germany, and Hurray in Belgium. All of our international distributors (those we named and did not name) do an amazing job as an extension of Primitive when it comes to brand awareness, notoriety and the global progression of Primitive as a whole. Aside from a business perspective of distribution, we also have a strong international rider representation within the EU. We see that as a means for grass roots brand awareness which then creates more demand for Primitive on a global scale. How are you using social media to target your audience? Our marketing team is another major part of our success. We have everything from the logistics of running social media campaigns to the feel

and aesthetic of how we want our brand to be represented. Oliver Barton is not only one of skateboarding's most legendary photographers but he also happens to be our Head of Marketing. From skate to apparel, we pride ourselves on maintaining 100% authenticity and it really shows in our social media aesthetic. Every post, story, activation is curated with an extreme amount of thought and feeling, as well as logistics and post optimization. We are deeply connected to our social media on many fronts and it's making a name for us inside and outside of skating. Running any interesting initiatives with bricks and mortar retailers? Our Inside Sales Representative Matt Barre and our President of Skate Heath Brinkley travel pretty extensively to core brick and mortar shops all around the country. We also take similar approaches when it comes to international brick and mortars. We at Primitive believe this initiative helps solidify the relationships within the core community and gives us a chance to show our appreciation for their on-going support. We also work hand in hand with these shops to support their flow riders that could potentially develop into a Primitive amateur skater. All of these elements help give us a wide scope on the skate industry as a whole, as well as catching and forecasting trends for the future of Primitive. PRIMITIVESKATE.COM 67

N E W P R O D U CT S 01 / D A K I N E C Y C L O N E I I D R Y PAC K 36L

01

The ultimate surf pack has been updated with all new features, sealing its place as the ideal fully waterproof pack.A roll top closure and welded construction make for a total waterproof seal in the roomy main compartment, while PU coated zippers provide water resistance in the dual outside pockets. You'll appreciate clever details like the two-way purge valve for inflation (to make the bag float) or space saving compression, and integrated board carry system. The breathable back panel, sternum strap and laptop sleeve are the great finishing touches DAKINE.EU

02

02 / T H E J A M E S B R A N D - T H E HOLCOMBE

Secure your valuables with utility at hand. The Holcombe comes in a slim design that won’t bulk up your keys more than they already are. With a wire gate design, the Holcombe will stay firmly attached to wherever you keep it. With a 'one belt loop' internal width, this product is a perfect companion for any pair of jeans. Your keys are kept safe in a secondary compart that anchors a flat head screw driver and all things scraper. THEJAMESBRAND.COM

04 03

03 / S U PR A H A M M E R V TG S H O E The Hammer VTG is a vintage inspired skate shoe that uses the same last as the Graco, giving it a slim and classic shape. The upper consists of a premium suede vamp/coller/heel with a breathable canvas quarter. The design has references that tie back to the Hammer franchise and overlays are detailed by premium French binding. The Hammer VTG has a rubber toe cap and sits on top of a brand new vulcanised outsole with Supracrush technology and utilises dual-layered Herringbone tread. SUPRAFOOTWEAR.COM

04 / R V C A J AY D AV I E S / M A R K OBLOW BOARDSHORT

The second trunk in a series of styles designed by RVCA‘s very own artists & advocates. This piece is a collaborative effort by surfer Jay Davies and ANP artist Mark Oblow, resulting in a special edition boardshort with original artwork and performance driven design. The printed flower symbol is a favourite of both Jay Davies and Mark Oblow. The short comes in a 4-way stretch fabric with a waterrepellent coating. RVCA.COM

05 / M O D O M PERFO RMANC E SOFTBOARD

This highly desirable softboard is covered from nose to tail in Modom deck grip. This No need to wax the Croc-Top technology™ keeps things easy. The Hand shaped board has a single, double concave to vee slick bottom and a stringer core. MODOMSURF.COM

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www.slidesurfskates.com

MARKET INSIGHT UK

The ‘B Word’. I am not going to mention it at all. Really… I’m not. The B word will remain where it should be – tucked away PORTUGAL somewhere safe only to be dragged out in GERMANY history lessons for future generations. But AUSTRIA who knows? Who knows just when ‘it’ will FRANCE suddenly be brought to the fore and we will all have to talk about it, write about it and SWISS worse still – live with it. It’s been a hell of ITALY a month or two. The winter ended with a whimper – the season closed gently and did not bring the bonus snow that we all hoped for. But winter sports retailers generally seem happy enough and pre-orders for 19/20 were good. Of course there were winners and losers… and talking of which. O&CC (our main interest being the Snow & Rock chain) applied for a CVA (Company Voluntary Arrangement). Whilst some undoubtedly saw this coming (and some did not) it nevertheless sent massive shockwaves through the industry. Thankfully, the CVA was voted ‘for’ by an overwhelming majority. The management and the group will need continuing support if they are to succeed – historical research shows that less than 50% of CVAs are successful. Industry goodwill, determined staff and management may help to tip that % in a more positive direction. Let’s hope so. So, apart from the trials and tribulations of S&R, how’s it going? The Easter Bank Holiday weekend brought an amazing blast of welcome sunny weather which undoubtedly helped things. Then a cold snap hit for the next Bank Holiday in May with a ‘mixed’ Bank Holiday later in May - so we are still in the ‘waiting lounge’. But retailers are generally optimistic. This time I kick off my discussion in the right place. Sitting on the terrace outside Funsport Rhosneigr (Anglesey, Wales) with an old windsurfing rider from days gone by, Dave Buckland. The sun is shining, there’s a gentle breeze, a boat on the horizon and, for mid May, the village is actually quite busy. “It’s bloody marvellous,” beams Dave “Easter was the best ever, business was great – ice creams were selling as was all the kit in the shop”. But it has turned cold since then – is it holding up? “It has and I’m planning on a great summer ahead – it’s obvious that people are more interested in vacationing in the UK. There’s virtually no accommodation left in the village – it’s sold out. It’s really all sold out. Amazing.” That sounds like good news all around? “It is and it comes on the back of a windy winter with good surf. It was cold, but the enthusiasts in all sports stuck with it and the temperature helped the sales of all the winter accessories.” So what’s different looking forward? “Pre-orders – that’s what’s different. I’m cutting them back to the bone. If I need stock someone will have something. I’m sorry to say that the days when major brands get juicy pre-orders are long gone. I recently cancelled my wetsuit preorder with one of my major suppliers who were obviously not happy but it simply does not make sense any longer. I’m not prepared to carry the stock and will be buying much more ‘on demand’ ”. Anything new? “Foiling. Foiling. Foiling. Whether it be kite, windsurf, SUP – it’s capturing people’s attention and they want to learn”. And the established business? “SUP – God Bless SUP’ing – people perceive it as an “extreme” sport, and they love the tag and the ease – inflatable SUPs are going to continue selling for as far ahead as I can see.”

It’s Dave’s 20th year of ownership – and to celebrate you’re all invited to a party – June 20 – midday to midnight on the beach in front of the shop. Another ‘old colleague’ of mine is John Ball who now owns and runs the watersports side of the Absolute group. Absolute Watersports is a completely autonomous business owned and operated by John. “It’s busy – can I call you later,” always a good sign – so I thought. When I finally got to speak to John it initially seemed that my optimism was misplaced. “Pretty good, we’re selling a reasonable amount of stuff and we’re up on last year.” Not as good as I had hoped for, but John is always a cautious fellow. He went on, “this is all on the back of a really good 2018 so being up on last year is a great achievement.” I was beginning to feel better, “after a slow start, 2019 has really picked up, people are back in the water and all the toys are selling well. High end is slower than I’d like but that will come.” And as for the future? “Very optimistic. I can tell by the type and number of enquiries that interest levels are high - this will translate into business in due course.” Someone else upbeat was Nick at Route One. “The winter ended well and it’s been a good start to the year. Footwear is a bit up-and-down, and it’s the usual three brands that are selling, but skate is doing well – absolutely no complaints there”. Anything in particular? “Yeah – completes. Which is a great sign. Kids are perhaps moving over from scooters and no doubt the Olympics and the general coverage that skating is getting is really helping. Of course we can always do better but honestly, I cannot complain. All we need now is a nice long summer… not too hot mind you.” In summary Nick upped the ante, “Actually… a great start to the year.” Nice! I got a bit of a surprise when I called Henry at Shore Watersports who was also very upbeat. “All going in the right direction. Not as easy as last year but the numbers are good, and we had our best ever Easter weekend in the shop. Both footfall and takings were at record levels”. What about the mix, “Surf is OK, wetsuits are picking up and are the best we have seen for a while – but it’s fashion and softgoods that are doing really well”. What about SUP? “It’s still growing but more slowly.” Looking forward Henry was confident but with a hint of caution, “I am feeling good about the summer but it will not be as good as last year – that will be a difficult year to beat.” So where’s the surprise? He brought up the B word, “We just need it done. I’ve always been in favour of leaving the EU and am sure it is the right thing to do. Better to do it with a deal than without – but whatever, we need to get on with it and leave.” It’s no good dammit – I have to talk about it. This article started before the EU Elections and I am finishing it after them. Sadly, the UK remains completely divided. From start to finish it’s the politicians (of all colours, nationalities and persuasions) that seem totally incapable of resolving the issue. Brexit is a disaster of monumental proportions – or is it? Maybe Henry is right? Perhaps out of this turmoil we will see an end to the two-party system and find some new blood making its way into politics. Grasping at straws? (Recyclable of course) … I hope that there can be some good that can comes out of all this. It’s a hope against hope I think. Hey-Ho. On we go focussing on the day-to-day business and trying to keep the wolf from the door. Good selling. G O R D O N WAY

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MARKET INSIGHT The first glimpses of the positive signs seen in the first months of 2019 seem to be confirmed with the French economy still bearing up well in the second quarter. Growth of the French economy should reach +0.3% in the second quarter, in other words, at a similar level to the first three months of 2019. This growth seems to be largely fuelled by buying power. The last forecasts from INSEE show that the French economy is being driven forward by French consumption. Consumer household spending should bounced back in the first two quarters with +0.5% and +0.4% respectively after a really dire final quarter of 2018 at 0%. The urgent social and economic measures that favour modest incomes announced by president Emmanuel Macron at the end of the year have propped up the balance sheets of households with a high propensity to consumption. Upgrades and expansion of employment bonuses, cancellation of the increase in social security contributions (CSG) for retired people with incomes under 2,000 Euros and tax and contributions exemptions for overtime hours coupled with wage dynamics have all started to drive the buying power of a number of modest households. Another positive sign on the international scene, France seems to be attracting foreign investors. Our country has for the first time joined the top 5 most appealing countries. Improvements to the business climate and the recent drop in business taxation rates (reducing to 25% between now and 2022) has allowed France to leap to fifth place on the list of most attractive countries in the world. It seems as though that despite the Gilets Jaunes movement, punctuated by outbursts in the last seven months with footage being sent around the globe, our country is still very much liked. The economic lights in France seem to be turning to green at the start of 2019 but what’s it really like for the boardsports industry and, more specifically, for retailers as they tackle the 2019 season? All the shops we asked seemed pretty unanimous: The Easter holidays went well in terms of visitation numbers as well as in-shop sales. Tamarindo on the Ile d’Oléron tell us that, “we had a lot of people in during the Easter holidays so logically made good sales as well” before adding, “the month of April combined holidays, tourism, good waves and nice weather. The perfect mix for generating traffic and sales in the shop.” The same went for Maa Surf Shop in Moliets where Delphine says, “The weather was really good and the Easter holidays were a success this year compared to last year,” and yet she adds, “the month of May was unfortunately a bit quieter with the traditional bank holidays falling in the middle of the week, which didn’t really allow people to extend their weekends of May as usual.” It was the same story for Nicolas from the shop Nico Beach in Cap Ferret, “customer numbers and sales in May were pretty average, the bank holidays placed mid week undoubtedly played a part in that this year.” For shops on the coast, the nice conditions in spring and early season seem to have been favourable to in-shop sales. Tamarino tell us, “This spring the isothermal range worked pretty well, customers were kitting themselves out with wetsuits to surf earlier on in the season. The surf conditions were also really favourable and this was inevitably reflected in sales at shops.” Nico from Nico Beach adds along the same lines that, “this year the water stayed really cold late into the season so all the isothermals sold really well, wetsuits as well as accessories: booties, gloves and cagoules.” As for brands, the most mentioned were Rip Curl, Vissla, O’Neill and Picture. In boards, once again the start of the season was synonymous with comfortable, easy-to-use boards with quite a lot of volume. Alban from Unclezaz shop in Mimizan says that, “After a winter of quite substantial swell and big waves, the return to quite

FRANCE

mellow conditions encouraged customers to come into the shop to look for their new board for the summer”, he adds, PORTUGAL “it’s mostly boards that are comfortable GERMANY and easy to paddle that customers look AUSTRIA for so boards like longboards, big fish or SWISS hybrids.” He also mentions a trend that ITALY seems to be emerging a bit this year, “we are seeing quite a big return to the UK retro type twin fin, these boards are comfortable and cool to surf and go well with the current trends, more and more people are interested in these shapes.” The most prevalent brands here seem to be torq, Modern and …Lost. In clothing, the good weather has also proved beneficial to shops, like at Maa Surf Shop where Delphine comments that, “This year customers were turning towards summer products earlier. The pleasant temperatures and the nice weather compared to last year entices people into the shop.” She continues, “with the lovely days at the start of the season, people came in to equip themselves with lighter pieces for summer.” It was the same effect at Freeride Surf Shop in Bidart where Michel confirms that, “the weather is really great this year so sales are better than last year and the clothing section is working pretty well this season.” However he does notice that, “customers pay more and more attention to the low priced items, reductions etc. They are looking for a good deal most of all.” The most mentioned brands in the surf apparel range are brands easily recognised by a summer clientele looking for Quiksilver, Rip Curl, Billabong and RVCA. As for shops that are more street-orientated, the skateboard market seems to be making a comeback, especially at Wall Street in Lyon where Mickael explains that, “Skateboarding is on the rise in terms of participation and demand and that is felt in terms of visitation numbers and sales in the shop.” He adds, “the discipline is enjoying more and more success and now all kinds of people are doing it. There’s also quite a lot of product renewal going on, which makes the market quite dynamic.” In pure street skate it seems as though wide and retro shapes are favoured by skaters for their stable, reassuring characteristics with brands such as Santa Cruz, Palace, Welcome and Sk8 Mafia. Another aspect of the sport that seems to be working well in shops is surf-skating. Alex from the Boardrider shop in Anglet tells us, “Surf-skate is one of our best sellers in the shop’s street section at the moment. It speaks to skaters as well as surfers but further still, to boardsports enthusiasts in general.” A family of products confirmed by Alban from Unclezaz, “Surfskate is increasingly in demand from our customers in the shop, as soon as they get on one of our test boards they love the feeling and generally go ahead and buy one.” The best selling brands at the moment seem to be YOW, Carver, Flying Wheels and Smooth Star. The clothing department seems to be a bit more complicated as Mickael from Wall Street explains, “trends are changing rapidly and constantly, a brand that worked really well last year can be more difficult to sell this year.” Examples he gives of this would be Thrasher and Rip N Dip. “Skaters are looking more for core brands or those offering limited collections or exclusives, like Helas, Polar, Magenta Or Nike for example.” The start of the 2019 season seems to be quite positive: the national economic indicators combined with favourable weather seem to be paying off in customer numbers and sales in shops. Let’s hope that the weather and waves can build on their strong start to make the 2019 season as good as it has promised so far… BENOIT BRECQ 71

THE GLOBAL PADDLESPORTS TRADE SHOW

Melting pot, showcase and driving force of the worldwide paddlesports industry 04.–06. October 2019 Nuremberg, Germany Every year in autumn.

RETAILER SHOW. EXHIBITOR DIRECTORY, VISITOR REGISTRATION AND MORE DETAILS AT PADDLEEXPO.COM

MARKET INSIGHT A lot of snowboard dealers in Germany were delighted with the good winter. However, the spring business was then impacted rather negatively by the long spell of cold weather. While fresh snow in the Bavarian foothills and in the Alps themselves kept the powder action alive into May on the mountains, this all happened at the expense of SUP fun on rivers and lakes. There is a widespread dramatic decline of retailer numbers throughout Europe anyway. According to a survey by Austrian credit reform associations Österreichischer Verband Creditreform (OVC) and Verband der Vereine Creditreform e.V., about a third of all businesses that folded in 2018 came from the retail sector, this figure includes hotels and hospitality. It was 30.9 percent the year before. In France the figure rises to a staggering 39 percent, but even in Austria, retailers made up over a third of all permanent closures, with 33.5 percent folding. According to DerStandard.at, the authors of the study blame a change in the structure of the industry and a growth in online retail. “Every retailer that’s closing down in a town is accelerating the swing towards online retail. The high street is becoming increasingly unattractive. It’s a death spiral and it's taking the shops with them”, says retail expert Dr. Thomas Roeb, who’s a professor at Bonn-Rhein-Sieg university. He can’t see a future for many retailers, not even on Amazon. “Amazon isn’t an alternative. The horrendous fees charged by Amazon will often wipe out most of the profit. 15 per cent of turnover may be 100 per cent of the profit.” Our first interviewee is Florian Bechert from the south west of the country. He recently moved his Boardshop Freiburg to a new retail space and is shedding some light on the impact his move has had. “While our actual floor space has become smaller, we have moved from 2a surroundings into a prime 1a location, which has driven up the cost of our lease. However, the move still proved to be profitable as it resulted in increased turnover. Quite clearly, location is everything and is becoming increasingly important. For us, it has paid off with a noticeable rise in turnover. The old rule of thumb that people will come to you when you’re a specialised retailer doesn’t seem to apply anymore, though. We simply couldn’t exist anymore on little or no footfall. We’re still true to our tried and tested concept and are still selling snowboards, skateboards, longboards and a lot of fair trade fashion in the lifestyle sector. When it comes to hardware, we mainly focus on European brands like, for example, Antiz. When it comes to snowboard equipment, for reasons of margin we’re interested in brands like Ride, K2 or Salomon which are Sport2000 listed. The fashion sector is defined by trial and change, but the share of women now exceeds 50 percent at Boardshop Freiburg. We have also expanded our target demographic to 30 to 50 year olds. You really need only four show brands these days: Vans, adidas, Nike and etnies and their main styles; Old Skool, Busenitz Vulc, Janoski and Joslin. The proportion of hardware sales compared to clothes has gone up, with a lot of high price snowboards and e-boards being sold. Our online turnover has shrunk due to Zalando, Blue Tomato & Co. having much bigger advertising budgets. The stationary to online ratio is only about 80 to 20 now”, says Florian about the latest development. Jörg Ludewig of distributor Urban Supplies has used the changing retail sector for a change and has moved his company into new premises that have been adapted and optimised for his needs. “Spring business was lively, better than last year!” Urban Supplies has added Cliché, an even more affordable range of completes, to their stock. Is that a reaction to customers becoming more sensitive to price? “Cliché offers a good alternative to cheap unbranded decks. Amongst the completes, it stands for a cheap entry price while delivering good quality, way above what you can get in Toys R Us or similar. We see Cliché as an addition rather than something that will wipe out the rest of the shop. Decks, trucks and wheels are selling very well, anyway. Grip tape is also growing again,

GERMANY

while bearings aren’t performing too well, there’s just too much competition. Complete boards sales are solid, to put a PORTUGAL positive spin on it. Our longboard stock, FRANCE small to start with, is selling slowly, the market seems to be dead for the low to AUSTRIA mid-price segment, the shops are still SWISS full. Apparel is problematic. Shops are ITALY crammed with collections where the UK prices are subsequently slashed. Looking at the big players’ emails, it’s more about discounts than making a decent turnover. T-shirts etc by skate brands are losing out, as they sometimes don’t even make it into the shops. Further development is dependent on the weather but our pre-orders for summer and autumn are looking solid so far.” So does the gloomy outlook in terms of retail concern him, do shops continue to close in the boardsport sector? “I’m afraid so. It concerns us as well as retail as a whole. There isn’t one single reason, though. Too few local customers, the wrong approach, too much competition, costs too high, bad product selection, just a generally weak market – there’s so many reasons,” thinks Jörg Ludewig. Our next expert is a long-standing active skateboarder who’s running bleed, a clothes label specialising in sustainable, fair and crueltyfree production. Michael Spitzbarth is currently celebrating the tenth anniversary of this approach and of his company, opening his first flagship store. “The initial years were very tough, but that was followed by a steady growth for about five years. This has now accelerated massively over the last couple of years. About time, as time is running out for our planet, it may already be too late! Demand for bleed from the retailer in the B2B sector has unfortunately changed massively over the last few years. This is not necessarily down to us but more of a general development in the industry and the strong growth of e-commerce. However, our experience shows that the demand from end customers is much stronger and that they’ve showed an interest in ethically sourced products very early on. The conventional customer in a shop is a bit behind when it comes to eco-friendly products but we have noted a clear improvement this year! We’re particularly baffled by the fact that as a small brand we have a lot of enquiries from big companies/retailers (mostly online), while the small shops, run by their owners, are not taking any notice of us, despite that being the perfect fit for our philosophy. Still, sustainability is important and can no longer be ignored, that’s why we’re continuing to have positive conversations at trade fairs, etc. The situation certainly can’t be easy for stationary retailers these days! We started out as a skateboard only brand and initially sold exclusively to skate shops. Out of all the customers that we used to have, there’s probably about two or three core shops left in 2019 that we still deliver to. Still an active skateboarder myself, it saddens me to see this as there were a lot of friends and acquaintances amongst those that had to give up and close their shops. However, we have a flagship store measuring 120 square metres in northern Bavaria. That’s because I’m convinced that we can still be successful in a stationary retails space as long we attract the customers with the help of our online channels. Of course it requires a lot more effort, as we have to add value to distinguish ourselves even more from e-commerce; this includes offering events and experiences for customers. It’s working beautifully for us!” A study from the nineties by the neurobiologists Antonio Demasio and Joseph LeDoux claimed that it's almost impossible to make a decision without emotions playing a role in the process! Following that logic, the same seem to go for sales… JOCHEN BAUER 73

MARKET INSIGHT ITALY

Italy signed a contract to boost their economic ties with China and was the first EU country to strike such a deal, PORTUGAL which has split opinion. Optimists feel it’ll improve our economy, pessimists GERMANY fear too much Chinese investment could AUSTRIA invade our country and buy into all of FRANCE our stronger brands and companies. SWISS Only time will tell. Internally, the new government is trying to implement UK new tax laws and is giving a so-called ground-salary to people with no or very low income. Something that should help the south gain more spending power but can also create mean more people try to avoid paying taxes or declaring income to score free salaries. It’s the first time we’ve had this kind of situation so we need to see if it will help or hurt our tax system. The boardsport business started well into 2019 as we saw snow in late January and it helped the winter season to continue well, but winter didn’t seem to end as we saw low temperatures even in May, causing problems with summer clothing sales and sandals. Overall spring 19 sales were lower then expected but this is nothing new as spring is the trickiest season when it comes to clothing and shoe sales. Skate hardgood sales remain stable with small growth rates but as there are many brands on the market, the turnover is split over many companies. The retail prices of decks is still not where they should be and margins for stores are the biggest problem as hardgoods don’t make a living for 90% of the stores. Longboarding has faded away back to its small niche as it was before the hype a couple of seasons ago. Cruisers are still available everywhere but sales there dropped in the same percentage as complete longboards did. Skateboarding and surf saw a great event that combined the two plus partying and music which took place in Milan in May called SSFF (Skate Surf Film Festival). It’s

SWISS

Summer products in Switzerland are divided into three main categories: streetwear/ footwear, skateboarding and watersports. PORTUGAL It’s not unusual that the three are all found under one roof but often one sector takes GERMANY centre stage. Watersports are important AUSTRIA in Switzerland but of course they are not FRANCE the same or done in the same way as in countries with access to the sea or the ITALY ocean, but they are by no means left by the UK wayside either. Despite all that and although it might make some of our neighbours laugh, Switzerland with its rivers and lakes, is good for aquatic sports. It started with sailing, then windsurfing and now there is a growing interest in kitesurfing, foil and SUP. Not even surfing is neglected in Switzerland and the love for boardsports, travel and adventure, the three key ingredients to surfing, produces a constantly growing number of participants from our landlocked country. According to Simon Frei from Cloud 9 (shop and distributor in Winterthur), the progression in the surfing market in Switzerland can solidly back up this point. Cloud 9 is one of the main retailers of surf related products in Switzerland. They distribute the brands Rip Curl, FCS, Global Surf Industries and torq amongst others. The market is growing and demand is diversifying, and so is the choice of products. Cloud 9 have responded to this by enlarging their range as well as investing more in their stock to be able to meet this increasing demand. Surprisingly, even in the winter months sales are proving pretty impressive. Thanks to them and a few other shops and importers, it’s now possible to kit ourselves out for surfing from our own country. The prices are stable and similar to the Eurozone, there’s much less disparity than in snowboarding for example. These days, travelling to the ocean is not the 74

a project where skate and surf videos are screened and fringe events including parties and skate sessions/contests are held on the streets of Milan. It’s a great event with a lot of positive energy, which brings the skate and surf community together and also attracts a lot of people from outside our industry, which is very positive. When talking to retailers something is crystal clear, the direction and brand selection of a store is now the toughest of all decisions. Remaining a core skate shop, becoming a bit of a hype-store, going the outdoor road, mixing everything together or even becoming a street-fashion store, these are all choices many stores had to transform the last seasons as trends come and go and it has become harder to stay in business then ever before. Skateboarding seems to be alive everywhere and not just in skate shops anymore, some even say we created an industry which no longer in our hands anymore. Alessandra from the Eightball store in Bassano adds, “the direction needs to be clear for the customer and that’s what we stand for, staying true to our roots and with constant research offering the customer new and especially smaller brands season after season without loosing what we stand for.” In terms of brands and items that sell well, it changes very quickly and offering brands that are hard to get or limited quantity releases are still crucial if a store wants to stay relevant and create awareness. Unfortunately right now we see more skate shops close down than open up or change direction of brand selection, which is not a good sign but skateboarding still remains very relevant and cool as it also influences the fashion world especially in Italy. Surf is stable but with no significant growth in sight. Let´s see what this summer brings as we still wait for temperatures to rise and summer kick in. FRANZ JOSEF HOLLER only way for the Swiss to surf. River surfing as well as artificial waves like Oana in Ebikon, the Urban Surfwelle in Zurich and the two Wavegarden projects (Alaia and Wavup) are generating curiosity and new appeal for a sport that’s on the rise. As for the skateboard market, its next step in maturity is proving difficult to predict. Back in the day, kids used to find a sport they liked and threw themselves, heart and soul into it, often developing into a passion or even a lifestyle without looking around too much at other opportunities open to them. It seems different these days; youngsters are more open to new things and to different ways of doing a sport and in our case, ways of skateboarding. What used to be limited to cutting your teeth on a sidewalk has now opened up to broader horizons; we have more kinds of terrain and more types of wheeled hardware to fully express yourself on. So what we call “softwheel skateboarding” has gained more and more enthusiasts in recent years, even reaching a peak in 2015, after which there was a sharp decline in the market. Since then the market has stabilised and the legitimate players have remained and some of the opportunists have disappeared. In order to limit the risks it seems obvious these days that product diversification is essential to the survival of specialist shops. By offering a maximum amount of choice, you can better meet the variety of demand at the same time as minimising the shock when a product runs out of steam. Jeremy Sochin from Number.One Boards and Bikes in Lucerne is an advocate of this strategy; he prioritises service, choice and product diversity over sales volumes of trendy products whose appeal could dwindle from one day to the next. He also pays special attention to being able to offer the most unique products to his customers. The brands Powell and Santa Cruz are the most mainstream brands in his range, all the other brands, like Welcome to name but one, are practically only available from him in Switzerland. FA B I E N G R I S E L

MARKET INSIGHT A very gentle winter with plenty of blue skies and off-shore winds have blessed this part of the world, making surfers happy and, with spring already underway in similar conditions, surely the business leaders are looking forward to the treble: a nice hot summer with good sales performances. This is the beauty (and sometimes the beast) of our industry. With Portugal's famous weather and surfing conditions playing its part, it’s with attention, but greater ease than other industries, that we assess current economic scenarios. Although Portugal has seen a growth in its economy for the past few years, there is nothing to be terribly excited about since numbers have been shy. After a positive GDP growth of 2.8% in 2017, it eased out to 2.1% in 2018, and this year projections are pointing to numbers between 1.6% and 1.7%. This slower performance can be partly explained by the decrease in overall consumer confidence and private consumption. However, we’re still talking about growth and by the looks of it, the Portuguese surfing industry players have their strategic assets in play. To better grasp of what’s been happening lately and to know what’s looking promising in times to come, we chatted with some surf business owners across the country. For Lightning Bolt, the historic brand with its European headquarters based in Portugal, numbers are looking good. According to Sandra Gonçalves, the brand’s Business Manager “we’re growing at a stable pace with a global growth of 25% in the first trimester of 2019”. Part of their success might be explained by the fact that their products are made in Portugal, which guarantees quality and reliability as well a socially and ecologically responsible approach to the business. Speaking of eco matters, Diogo Lamares, owner and CEO of the gorgeous GRUA surf shop, located in Matosinhos (Porto district), claims that his customers have been looking for brands that focus on reducing their

Looking back at last season, winter saw record snow levels for the second year in a row, which led to a healthy influx of tourists at our resorts throughout the season. Local snowboarders were hyped as well, and everyone in our business profited – despite the fact that Easter fell on a late date this year – from resort stores all the way to retailers in the cities. Thomas Alton at Alton Premium Boardstore in Feldkirch confirmed the positive winter results while specifically pointing out bindings, boots and outerwear as strong performers. Alton also successfully positioned the store as a splitboard specialist. As the resident snowboard hardware specialist in the town of Graz, Surf Service Graz also had a great winter. CEO Gernot Brandstätter even calls it the best in a long time. Buoyed by great snow conditions, all categories saw great sell-through from race boards to splitboards and freeride specialist shapes. At XDouble Shop in Innsbruck, Adi Rauscher reported great results with bringing back boards, bindings, boots, outerwear and accessories after a four-year hiatus. The stoke for snowsports is back and Adi pointed out expert service as a big plus, also separating regional retail from online sales. Looking into next season, XDouble wants to expand its outerwear offering and bring back their boot fitting service. On that note, Boardshop Seidl in Salzburg is also bringing back its winter sports collection after taking a break. Let’s turn the page to spring and summer season. Season start was delayed by cold weather all the way into Easter and May, including snowfall in the valleys. According to weather service Ubimet, May 2018 was the warmest and driest in 150 years, but 2019 was a disappointment for warm weather enthusiasts. The inclement weather impacted sales of summer product, although a few warm days in April boosted skateboard hardware sales according to Thomas Alton and Adi Rauscher. According to Adi, shoes and apparel had an okay start, joined by bikinis and swimsuits. But as the cold weather persisted, shorts, tees and other summer apparel aren’t finding their customers. Retailers specialized in watersports are an exception, as they are less weather-dependent as fashion and skateboard

carbon foot print and that products made from recycled or organic materials with a minimal use of chemicals and plastics have been highly sought. In terms of overall sales performances things are also looking positive “the first trimester results are within what we expected, with a stable growth. Plenty of rainless days and good surf have also contributed for these numbers, as well as the increase of tourism in the region”.

PORTUGAL GERMANY FRANCE AUSTRIA SWISS ITALY UK

Further south, at Costa da Caparica, Rico Moser, Manager of Aura SA, distributor of surf and skate brands including Creatures of Leisure, Sexwax, Surfears, Reef and DC Shoes and owner of what might be the oldest surf shop in Portugal “Samadi Caparica Surf Centre Store” founded in 1987, also talks about tourism when analysing his business. Although he believes that the industry might be getting small for the number of players “possibly soon there will be more brands than shops in the country… everyone in the industry wants a piece of this small cake,” Rico feels that tourism will help business grow in the years to come. In terms of prospects for this summer, Lightning Bolt are reinforcing its business with a capsule collection of boardshorts in 100% recycled polyester SEAQUALTM, as well as a collection of tees and hoodies in organic cotton and 40% recycled polyester blend. As for GRUA surf shop, Diogo Lamares informs that the next steps will be to continue to deliver a differentiated user experience at both a retail and online level. That certainly will be the key to keep up growing the business for months too. To wrap things up, a special mention to the ladies as Rico Moser tells us that the “Girls Surf & Beach” segment is up since last year. PAT R I C K A N D S A LVA D O R S T I LW E L L

AUSTRIA

shops. Speaking of watersports, SUP has been a bit of a problem child. Aptly named the PORTUGAL ‘cross country skiing of the summer’ by Michi Seidl at Boardshop Seidl, it really GERMANY needs nice weather to bring people out to FRANCE the lakes. Gernot Brandstätter also expects SWISS problematic results with SUP if summer ITALY doesn’t make an appearance any time soon. The weather plays less of a factor UK in the kite- and windsurfing segments, so both stores are satisfied with how things are developing at a retail level. Both stores named foiling as a potential trend for this season. But at this point, it’s more about the general level of attention than actual sales. Putting a finger on another strong trend – this one even backed by sales numbers – Thomas Alton sees a surge in skateboarding with more and more kids and girls finding their way on board. In terms of trending products, there are no major phenomena, except perhaps a bit of 1990s flavour in the skate deck segment. Other than that, it’s all about variety – a bit of everything for everyone. Some rather sad news reached us from the town of Wörgl: the timehonoured Pilotto Shop by Marco Pilotto will have to close its doors over the next few weeks. Opened in 1976 as a fashion store and expanded into skateboards in 1984, the store is part of an era that is now ending. Asked about reasons for the closure, Marco Pilotto named a shift in consumer behaviours, brand distribution policies and rising personnel costs. As Marco revealed, a new store with an innovative concept will take over his location, although without any of his involvement. We want to thank Marco Pilotto and team for years and years of supporting the scene. And no worries, Marco will remain active in skateboarding through his Muckefuck brand. With that said, let’s hope for a warm summer and great sales in all categories. BJÖRN BETTERMANN/ KANOA TRADING 75

#97

ONE-EYED MONSTER LONGBOARDCLASSIC STUBEN

01 01 - Organizer Paul Gruber

02 03 - Some like it HOT! Timmy from Alprausch

02 - Pogo Founders Martin Sammet and Jogi MÑrz

04

03 04 - Start of the Oldschool Category!

VA N S D U CT TA P E P O R T U G A L

01 01 - Kevin Casillo - Sr. Global Marketing Manager, Surf & Snow

02 - Mr Magic Quiver, Mario Wehle

03 - Scott Sisamis Vans Global Director Action Sports, Surf & Snow

02

03

06 - Kyle Martin, Vans Global Product Marketing Manager Surf & Snow

07 - The Charlesworths. Vans EMEA Brand Marketing Director Simon and his wife

05 05 - Black Sparrow Owner Kat Mackenzie and PR Manager Georgie

03

02

04 04 - Vans, Ben Sooprayen and Surf Girl Mag's Sophie Everard

08 08 - Vans Europe PR maestro, George Pedrick and social media guru, Giovanni Macca

R I P C U R L 50 Y E A R A N N I V E R S A R Y PA R T Y H O SS E G O R

02

01 01 - Crew

76

02 - Global marketing director Neil Ridgway

04

03 03 - Mick Fanning

04 - Rip Curls global CEO Michael Daly

AIRLINE

FASTER THAN MOST HARD BOARDS

NOSE CONE Guiding the cable at the bow’s center line, while creating a perfect nose shape.

HOOK Cable tension adjustment point. 4 different positions to easily set the wanted tension and stiffness

AIRLINE FIN BOX Locking the cable at the tail of the board, ensuring tighter rigging.

REFLEX

The highlight of the Airline technology is the reflex caused by the release of tension in the line. During a paddle stroke, the board flexes under pressure, storing the strokes energy. Once the paddle exits the water, the stored energy launches the board forwards.

PATENTED TECHNOLOGY

HL RDA CLIM YE

ARK EP AT

THOR H E

Our partners for a deep-blue, sustainable future:

Photographer : Ben Thouard

HIGH TENSION ARAMID CABLE Pre-streched aramid fiber cable providing unparalled stiffness and rigidity.

GERMANY : APM Margeting GmbH Ph: +49 8171 307080 www.apm-marketing.de AUSTRIA-SWITZERLAND : Fanagus AG Ph: +41 41763 1808 www.fanagus.ch

STANDING TRAY NEW Increase stability and control.

OPPORTUNITIES EMEA PR MANAGER, VANS – EMEA, STABIO SWITZERLAND GENERAL SUMMARY: Oversee and manage all EMEA public relations: pro-active and reactive media relations, seeding and influencer marketing designed to reinforce the brands image and increase brand awareness by presenting the Vans brand in a coherent and efficient way. Execution of a pan-European process and strategy aligned with the global brand vision to deliver results. To include management and ownership of relationships with a series of external partners within each key market that require clear briefs and regular review. Fiscal accountability for the department, planning and monitoring budget for the year. PRIMARY ACCOUNTABILITIES: o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

Significantly improve Vans brand image and awareness: increasing coverage, upgrading quality perception and reflecting brands positioning and differentiation from competitors Day-to-day management of agency relationships, monitoring and instructing them to ensure the best results possible and provide feedback to the wider team. Track editorial coverage and product placement, looking at return on investment and providing highlights for monthly re-caps of coverage Seasonal briefings to all external agencies Creation and execution of PR plans around our key stories and product launches Support on Vans events with appropriate PR & communications plans Partner with broader team to execute a seeding strategy aligned with brand product stories Pull together plans and share/present as appropriate to internal stakeholders Manage translation of materials as required for varying markets Guide and brief department team members as appropriate within their assigned responsibility Remain fully informed of all markets activities to support with PR, as appropriate Build and consistently review an EMEA-wide data base of suitable brand media and influencers Work closely with Brand Marketing Team to maximise marketing budget and grow brand presence across EMEA Develop annual budget proposals and expenditure allocation plans Provide pro-active ideas to further develop the brand that could be outside of PR function Stay informed with latest PR practice to ensure Vans is leading in its approach to this function Share best practice examples and competitive and industry work, as appropriate Be equipped to guide management team in the event of any arising issues or unforeseen incidences

QUALIFICATIONS: o o o o o

Education: PR or Marketing Degree or equivalent through experience A appreciation and understanding of the Vans brand and the action sport industry Experience: at least 5 years PR experience preferably in the action sports industry (brands, media, PR agencies, etc.…). Appreciation of Social Media & Influencer marketing Language skills: Fluent in English (both writing and speaking). Preferable to have proficiency in a second language: German, French, Spanish, Swedish or Italian preferred.

Zur Komplettierung unseres Sales Teams in Deutschland suchen wir

Area Manager/-in Standort: Raum München oder Frankfurt

Du hast entsprechend Erfahrung im Vertrieb (idealerweise im Außendienst) und hast einen guten Überblick über den Markt für Sportartikel/Outdoor/Lifestyle/Mode in Deutschland. Du kennst die Bedürfnisse und das Kaufverhalten unserer Konsumenten und hast klare Vorstellungen davon, wie ein optimales Sortiment bei den Händlern erfolgreich platziert und präsentiert werden kann. Was wir uns darüber hinaus erwarten, fassen wir nachstehend kurz wie folgt zusammen:

Du bist überzeugend im Auftritt und pflegst eine offene und wertschätzende Kommunikation mit dem Ziel, nachhaltige Kundenbeziehungen aufzubauen und weiter zu entwickeln Du stehst voll hinter dem Heritage der Marke und bist an der erfolgreichen Weiterentwicklung interessiert

Du bist für die Umsetzung der Zielvorgaben in deinem Gebiet verantwortlich und setzt diese durch regelmässiges Reporting sicher. Zudem führst du Jahresgespräche mit deinen wichtigsten Kunden durch. AUSBILDUNG/ERFAHRUNG/STÄRKEN ▪

IMPLEMENTIERUNG VON STRATEGIEN: Von selbständigen Fachhändlern, über Filialleistern bis hin zu Online Shops wendest du auf Basis der Markenpositionierung eine Retail-Strategie an, führst Vor- und Nachorders durch und sorgst damit für qualitatives Wachstum bei unseren Kunden

▪ ▪

PRÄSENTATION: Du führst eigenständige Produktschulungen im Handel durch, optmierst in Abstimmung mit der Marketingabteilung Händlerevents mit dem Ziel den Durchverkauf unserer Produkte sicher zu stellen

COMPETENCIES: o o o o o o

ZIELSTREBIGKEIT:

KOMMUNIKATION/KUNDENBEZIEHUNGEN:

Abgeschlossenes Studium (BWL, Textilwirtschaft, o. Ä.) und mindestens 3 Jahre Berufserfahrung im Vertrieb/Einzelhandel oder vergleichbare Ausbildung und mehrjährige Erfahrung im Bereich Sportartikelhandel/Lifestyle/ Mode Affinität für den Snowboard Sport & Lifestyle Hohe Reisebereitschaft & Flexibilität, Belastbarkeit und selbständige Arbeitsweise

▪

Ausgeprägte Teamplayer-Qualitäten, überzeugendes und sympathisches Auftreten, gute Englisch Kenntnisse

▪

Sehr gute MS-Office-Kenntnisse, B-Führerschein

WIR BIETEN

Excellent writing & communication skills, with attention to detail. Highly organized and proactive person Experience in working in multicultural teams and under pressure with ability to take initiative Enthusiastic, pro-active person who can handle stress and take initiative. Proficient in Microsoft programs including, PowerPoint, word, Excel Fiscal management capability

▪ ▪ ▪

Eine herausfordernde und abwechslungsreiche Aufgabenstellung beim Weltmarktführer im Snowboardbereich Angenehme Arbeitsatmosphäre in einem dynamischen Umfeld, flexbile Zeiteinteilung Marktgerechte Vergütung mit Dienstwagen, Anstellung in Deutschland (home office), organisatorische Anbindung an Sales-Team in Deutschland und dem Europe Headquarter in Innsbruck Haben wir Dein Interesse geweckt? Dann freuen uns auf Deine Bewerbung mit Angabe der Gehaltsvorstellungen und des möglichen Starttermins an jobs@burton.at

Job Descrip,on Job Title Loca,on

GLOBAL BRAND MANAGER AT SALOMON SNOWBOARDS SALOMON HQ, ANNECY, FRANCE

Func,on Cost center Loca,on

Strategic marke,ng plan / seasonal marke,ng toolbox crea,on / Global ac,va,on Snowboard BU interna/onal Marke/ng budget

Reports to Hard Line: Business Unit Manager Reports to Dotted Line: SWSE brand manager Supervisory Responsibili,es

MANAGES Sports marke/ng manager MANAGES PR and digital marke/ng coordinator

General Purpose of the Job

-Deliver the midterm Salomon Snowboard brand posi/oning and strategy -Define, drive and track the Omni-channel seasonal marketing activation plan in all markets (strategy/budget/tools) -Brief, create and deliver the seasonal marketing toolbox based on customers and consumers touch points

Main Responsibility Areas

To perform this job successfully, an individual must be able to perform each essen/al duty and responsibility sa/sfactorily: • Collect and synthesise consumer insights and compe,tors analysis • Define and update the global Brand posi,oning and strategy for Salomon Snowboards in collabora/on with Business Unit management and Sports marke/ng • Contributes to the seasonal “Key Ini,a,ve” defini/on in collabora/on with commercial/PLM/ brand & Go to Market stakeholders • Elaborate the storytelling / visual expression of the seasonal “Key Ini/a/ves” • Select and priori/ze the consumer touchpoints for each • Defines the seasonal marke,ng toolbox • Build the crea,ve brief for all marke/ng tools (digital/POP/campaigns…) • Follow the proper execu,on of the marke,ng tools • Feed and update the seasonal Data Base for Marke/ng assets • Create and refine the local Go to Market ac,va,on plans • Present the seasonal marketing strategy/toolbox and Activation plan to key internal stakeholders • Insure relevant resource allocation for A&P (Advertising and promotion) both at HQ and GTM levels • In charge of the global marke,ng budget • Track the local execu,on of marke/ng plans • Support Go to market marke/ng and commercial teams in ac/va/on phase • Punctually contributes to product and concept elabora,on ortPRE

Needed Competencies

The requirements listed below are representative of the knowledge, skill, and/or ability required. Reasonable accommodations may be made to enable individuals with disabilities to perform the essential functions. • Deep knowledge of the Ac/on sports / snowboard industry • Perfect English • Strategic vision • Leadership • Mul/cultural management skills • Up to date marke/ng know how (social/digital/omnichannel) • Ability to organize and coordinate mul/ple projects simultaneously • Crea/vity, curiosity open mind with rela/onship building skills • Able to priori/ze work load and respect /melines • Reliability • Sharp communica/on abili/es • Presenta/on skills • Willingness to travel and take part in events and trade shows.

Needed Work Experience

5 to 10 years related experience in marke/ng (within brand, media or distribu/on)

Educa,on

Master’s degree / business school

Scope of work

Global

SINNER is currently looking for a: Country Manager Austria (Austrian native, full-time)

WHAT YOU WILL DO You will be SINNER’s ambassador and responsible for the complete Austrian market covering optics, sports and lifestyle accounts by managing appointments with (wholesale) buyers to secure their orders. Your close collaboration with buyers and retailers achieves high resales and give us a clear analysis of the Austrian customer’s behaviour. You will generate sales reports and sales analysis on wholesale and retail and give feedback to the export manager. You will work closely with our HQ in The Netherlands and our external marketing/PR team to maximize any sales opportunities. Together with whole team you will develop SINNER’s visual exposure in the region. Because of your result-oriented personality, you will ensure that our sales run as optimal as possible and strengthen the foundation of our international and dynamic organization. WHAT WE ASK  You are experienced in the sports and lifestyle wholesale industry and have existing relationships and contacts with key-buyers from department stores, core shops, buying groups and online platforms;  You are a dedicated, proactive people manager with high organisational and analytical skills (able to analyse KPI reports, turnover, stock reports and product forecast reports);  You can give clear presentations and communicate strong and fluently in German and English, both verbal and in writing;  You are in possession of a valid driving license and ready to travel*, visit customers and build solid relationships. WHAT WE OFFER  You will be a part of the SINNER international journey;  We aim for your personal and professional growth;  Flexibility (home based if needed), a competitive salary, company car and annual incentive bonus are guaranteed. WHO WE ARE • International, ambitious and growing, always striving for the best • Connect innovation, trends, styles and creativity • Dare to overcome obstacles and follow our dreams Do you meet the profile? Then we would like to receive your curriculum vitae and motivation letter. Your application can be send by email to Paul Stoop: paulstoop@sinner.eu

Physical Demands and Basic business ac/vi/es / travel / on field tes/ng or riding Working Environment

78

DON’T BE SCARED. CHANGE THE RULES. LIVE YOUR DREAMS. THERE ARE NO LIMITS IN BEING YOU. BE YOURSELF, EVERYONE ELSE IS ALREADY TAKEN. WWW.SINNER.EU

*Ideally candidates would be centrally located. Job interviews will be held in Austria, region Innsbruck in the period of August/September 2019.

brought to you by Boardsport Source & ActionsportsJOB.com

OPPORTUNITIES

Inboard Technology Is Ready To Expand. Meet Inboard Technology: creating the most enjoyable way to get around your city or town. We are looking for European distributor and UK Agent partners to help us transform e-transportation, armed with our M1 electric skateboard and exciting, innovative products on the way for Spring 2019, such as the new Glider electric scooter.

brought to you by Boardsport Source & ActionsportsJOB.com

79

SURF

SKATE

SNOW

TRADE

EVENTS#97

JUNE 11 14 21 30 03 09 22 18 21

01 04 09 10

PITTI UOMO FLORENCE, ITALY PITTIMMAGINE.COM

GO S K AT E B O A R D I N G DAY OUTDOOR BY ISPO MUNICH, GERMANY ISPO.COM

CO R O N A J - B AY O P E N JEFFREYS BAY, SOUTH AFRICA WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM

I TA L I A N S U R F E X P O PIAGGIA DI SANTA SEVERA ITALIASURFEXPO.IT

SUMMER X GAMES MINNEAPOLIS, USA XGAMES.ESPN.COM

VANS PRO SKATE PARK SERIES QUALIFIER PARIS, FRANCE VANSPARKSERIES.COM

SEPTEMBER VANS PRO SKATE 06 PARK SERIES CHAMPS LAKE CITY, USA 07 SALT VANSPARKSERIES.COM 19 21 27 30 20 23

80

F R E S H WAT E R P R O LEMOORE, CALIFORNIA, USA WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM

SILMO PARIS, FRANCE SILMOPARIS.COM

ASIAN SPORTING GOODS SHOW HONG KONG ASIANSPORTING.COM

18 20 22 23 J U LY 02 04 11 14 24 25

07 09 12 14

05 07 15 16

O U T D O O R R E TA I L E R DENVER, CO, USA OUTDOORRETAILER.COM

VANS PRO SKATE PARK SERIES QUALIFIER SAO PAOLO, BRAZIL VANSPARKSERIES.COM

SEEK BERLIN, GERMANY SEEKEXHIBITIONS.COM

N A S S F E S T I VA L SOMMERSET, UK NASSFESTIVAL.COM

JACKET REQUIRED LONDON, UK JACKET-REQUIRED.COM

R E V O LV E R COPENHAGEN REVOLVER.DK

A G E N DA LAS VEGAS, USA AGENDASHOW.COM

SURF EXPO ORLANDO, FLORIDA, USA SURFEXPO.COM

SURF OUT P O R T U GA L ESTORIL, PORTUGAL, SURFOUTPORTUGAL.PT

20 28 21 23 02 04 12 13

OI RIO PRO BRAZIL WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM

S U R F D E M O D AY S HOSSEGOR, FRANCE SURFDEMODAYS.COM

PA N O R A M A BERLIN, GERMANY PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

VANS PRO SKATE PARK SERIES QUALIFIER MONTREAL, CANADA VANSPARKSERIES.COM

AUGUST T B C 07 11 21 01

09 10 20 22

CPH–AMS–BER OPEN DANEMARK, HOLLANDE, GERMANY CPHOPEN.COM

BOARDMASTERS CORNWALL, UK BOARDMASTERS.COM

TA H I T I P R O FRENCH POLYNESIA WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM

S P O R T - A C H AT LYON, FRANCE SPORTAIR.FR

S U R F D E M O D AY S LA TORCHE, FRANCE SURFDEMODAYS.COM

OCTOBER 03 04 04 06

EUROSIMA SURF SUMMIT FRANCE EUROSIMA.COM

PA D D L E E X P O NUREMBERG, GERMANY PADDLEEXPO.DE

03 13 16 28

Q U I K S I LV E R P R O FRANCE WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM

RIP CURL MEO PRO PENICHE PORTUGAL WORLDSURFLEAGUE.CO

SS20 24 - 25 July 2019 The Old Truman Brewery Jacket-required.com

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