WNC Travel Guide 2020

The View Top

built on tradition, stocked u love

Forty years ago, a young family pulled up in front of an old general store in a small mountain community with a funny name. Peeling paint, oceans of cobwebs, and piles of unsaleable merchandise were no match for their elbow grease, gentle manner, and positive attitudes.

Now, four decades later, the family store has grown to include old-fashioned locations in North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia and a few more family owners. The celebration of our milestone isn't what we planned, but we are grateful to be open again and welcoming your visit however you feel comfortable — online or in person.

Our hearts are fi lled with the loyalty and love you’ve shown us over the years and especially most recently. We are thankful to be a destination in all of our communities, and we can’t wait to see you again soon.

Valle Crucis • Boone • Hendersonville • Winston-Salem Asheville • Waynesville, NC • Greenville • Columbia, SC Knoxville, TN • Now in Downtown Ranoke, VA

If you’ve picked up this publication, then by all accounts you’re in search of outdoors adventure and countless experiences in our backyard paradise that is Western North Carolina.

As folks proud of our region, we also take a lot of pride in making those who visit feel as welcomed and embraced as possible, even during this oncein-a-lifetime pandemic that is gripping the country and the world. Life is about trying new things, and what better place to do so than with Mother Nature’s masterpiece of the Great Smoky and Blue Ridge mountain ranges as the backdrop?

Much of the fun here was all about social distancing and isolation before those terms came into everyday usage. Take to the trail for a day-hike or mountain bike ride, or head to the river for some vigorous kayaking or tranquil fly fishing. Gather your family together, take a drive on the beautiful Blue Ridge Parkway and find your own private picnic spot and take in the sunset. If you want to visit one of our downtowns, they are open and adhering to the federal and state guidelines to keep you and yours safe.

In these strange times, the vastness of the wilderness areas in Western North Carolina offer a healthy lifeline where one can refresh and recharge from the daily routines that have become the new norm. Enjoy your visit, and hope we to see you again in the not-toodistant future.

— Garret K. Woodward,

Entertainment Editor

Editor/Publisher: Scott McLeod info@smokymountainnews.com

Advertising Director: Greg Boothroyd greg@smokymountainnews.com

Art Director: Micah McClure .......... micah@smokymountainnews.com

Composition & Design: Travis Bumgardner travis@smokymountainnews.com Jessica Murray....... jessica.m@smokymountainnews.com

Writing/Photography: Garret K. Woodward garret@smokymountainnews.com

Advertising: Amanda Bradley jc-ads@smokymountainnews.com

Sophia Burleigh sophia.b@smokymountainnews.com

Susanna Shetley susanna.b@smokymountainnews.com

Hylah Birenbaum ........ hylah@smokymountainnews.com

Distribution: Scott Collier classads@smokymountainnews.com

Bookkeeping: Amanda Singletary smnbooks@smokymountainnews.com

Eats+Drinks

BearWaters Brewing expands to Maggie Valley

If you had told BearWaters Brewing founder/co-owner Kevin Sandefur eight years ago that someday he’d be at the helm of two brewery locations in Haywood County, and also play a big role in the economic revitalization of downtown Canton and become a linchpin in Maggie Valley’s business community, he’d probably call your bluff.

“It’s been quite a long journey, especially when I look back at how scrappy I was then compared to now,” Sandefur chuckled. “And then, with life and experiences and things you do, you become more mature and more

settled. You don’t feel like everything’s a fight, you finally become galvanized enough to move forward with a sense of peace and confidence.”

In one of the great success stories of re-

gional craft beer, BearWaters Brewing has grown from humble beginnings in a Waynesville storage garage to a highly popular destination in a large warehouse along the Pigeon River in Canton. For the 2019 calen-

dar year, the brewery produced more than 1,200 barrels with around 90,000 patrons coming through the doors.

And with its Canton location (aka: BearWaters Brewing Riverside) running on all cylinders, Sandefur and BearWaters co-owner Art O’Neil decided it was time to expand, which ultimately led to the discovery and acquisition of its new Maggie Valley location, aptly named BearWaters Brewing–Creekside.

“It was the right time to add another location and we secured the lease late year,” Sandefur said. “We had looked at spots in Knoxville, Tennessee and North Georgia. But, ironically, we came across this place in Maggie. We had a checklist and it had everything — creek in the back, great parking, highway frontage and positive economic indicators.”

Before you go

Please visit the website at bearwatersbrewing.com or call

828.944.0009 (Maggie Valley) or 828.237.4200 (Canton) for up-to-date hours and information.

Formerly The Garrett House, the Soco Road spot offers similar amenities as the Canton location, including backyard seating on nearby Jonathan Creek. Aside from its signature brews and a rotating cast of seasonal ales, BearWaters has also teamed up with The Grey Eagle Music Hall & Taqueria, with the

iconic Asheville business now bringing its storied reputation to both BearWaters’ locations.

“The universe really brought our two businesses together, and this relationship has been pretty special,” Sandefur noted. “They obviously have the entertainment and food side covered, and we’re taking care of the craft beer side.”

Sandefur added The Grey Eagle would also be involved in bringing notable live music acts to both Haywood County locations as things progress. And amid upcoming changes to the BearWaters–Riverside location, there are already plans in the works to construct a concert venue in the back of the property.

But, even with a whirlwind of recent expansion and decisions soon to be made, Sandefur is solely focused on the “here and now,” of being in the moment and appreciating all of the great things he’s not only built, but also crossed paths with in the process.

“With this brewery, it’s kind of like watching your kids grow up, seeing how things develop and take shape,” Sandefur said. “For us, we like watching people enjoy the spaces we’ve created, things we’ve put together where there was nothing before. It feels great to be able to make a positive impact on these communities.”

WNC

Breweries

Andrews

• Andrews Brewing

828.321.2006

www.andrewsbrewing.com

• Hoppy Trout Brewing Company

828.835.2111

www.hoppytroutbrewing.com

• Snowbird Mountains Brewery

678.419.3035

www.snowbirdmountainsbrewery.com

Bryson City

• Mountain Layers Brewing www.mtnlayersbeer.com

• Nantahala Brewing

828.488.2337 www.nantahalabrewing.com

Canton

• BearWaters Brewing

828.246.0602 • www.bwbrewing.com

Cashiers

• Whiteside Brewing

828.743.6000 www.whitesidebrewing.com

Dillsboro

• Innovation Brewing

828.586.9678 www.innovation-brewing.com

Franklin

• Currahee Brewing

828.634.0078 • www.curraheebrew.com

• Lazy Hiker Brewing

828.342.5133 www.lazyhikerbrewing.com

Hayesville

• Haynesville Brewing 828.835.6010

• Nocturnal Brewing 828.305.7337 www.nocturnalbrewing.com

• Valley River Brewery 828.389.1472 www.valleyriverbreweries.com

Highlands

• Satulah Mountain Brewing 828.482.9794 www.satulahmountainbrewing.com

Maggie Valley

• BearWaters Brewing 828.944.0009 • bearwatersbrewing.com

Murphy

• Valley River Brewery 828.837.2337 www.valleyriverbreweries.com

Sapphire

• Sapphire Valley Brewing 828.743.0220 www.sapphirebrewingcompany.com

Sylva

• Balsam Falls Brewing 828.631.1987 www.facebook.com/balsamfallsbrewing

• Innovation Brewing 828.586.9678 www.innovation-brewing.com

• Lazy Hiker Brewing 828.349.2337 • www.lazyhikerbrewing.com

• Nantahala Brewing (Outpost) 828.641.9797 www.nantahalabrewing.com

Waynesville

• Boojum Brewing 828.944.0888 www.boojumbrewing.com

• Frog Level Brewing 828.454.5664 www.froglevelbrewing.com

Eats+Drinks

White Moon serves up more than just coffee

It’s a serendipitous sort of happenstance when you stumble across the White Moon coffee shop. Tucked in the depths of Mill Street in downtown Sylva, the cozy establishment is meant to be a refuge from whatever may be distracting you from hearing the most important voice in your life — your own.

“Our favorite times at White Moon are when the community is gathering around and having conversations at our bar and enjoying their morning or afternoon coffee,” said Cecelia White, who co-owns the shop with her fiancé, Don Panicko. “Environment is really important for us here. We wanted to create a space that was welcoming and comfortable for people to gather in. Coffee is the one thing that most people start their day with, and we get to be a part of that.”

Growing up in Charlotte, White attended the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City. From there, she worked in retail and hospitality before deciding to put roots back down in her native North Carolina, this time in the western part of the state.

Originally from California, Panicko skipped college and headed for New York City at age 19, where he navigated his way through the hustle and bustle of the service

Before you go

Like all businesses, White Moon has been affected by the global pandemic. Please visit their website at whitemoonnc.com or call 828.331.0111 for current information.

industry. After a while, he wanted a simpler life and hit the open road on a motorcycle trip, ultimately finding himself in Asheville.

And it was in Asheville that the young couple first met in a coffee shop. At that time, White was focusing on apothecary

goods, while Panicko was immersing himself in woodworking. Eventually, they secured a small business loan through Mountain Bizworks to combine their passions and open a shop.

“After some time together, we decided to buy a house and looked at towns surrounding Asheville that fit our ideal location,” White said. “We both knew that we wanted to open a spot of some sort [in Sylva], but, honestly, we signed the lease with zero idea of what was going to fill that space and with zero funding.”

Six months after moving into their home in Balsam, they opened White Moon in 2018. Part coffee shop, part small plate gourmet restaurant, the independent business has quickly become a beehive of activity, hosting an array of social events, artisan collectives and live music.

“When Don and I met, I was in the process of branding apothecary goods that I was making in my free time. I was studying herbalism and working on a line of all natural, plant-based soaps, tea blends and syrups,” White noted. “And White Moon was the original name for that product line, so we took on the mindset in starting White Moon the coffee shop. We wanted to continue to bring herbalism and plant-based goodness to our products while sourcing farm fresh veggies from our local community — having a wellness section to our beverage menu and healthy, clean food options is important to us.”

When one steps into White Moon, the space is meant to be as inviting as it is inspirational, a room filled with natural light, shadows and friendly faces, where conversation between friends and strangers alike could be sparked in an instant.

“We opened a business that was simply an extension of ourselves and all of the things that we care about. It was a very honest organic development into what it is now and we had high hopes that the town would be supportive of us,” Panicko said. “Sylva’s landscape offers a lot of opportunity and growth. We feel that in the next few years it has the potential to achieve next level greatness. We hope that future business owners see the gaps in types of businesses and open up shops that are unique and will further strengthen our great town.”

Eats+Drinks

Frogs Leap Public House celebrates 10 years

Coming into this spring, Executive Chef Kaighn Raymond was looking forward to his restaurant hitting the 10-year mark. What he didn’t expect was for Frogs Leap Public House to be closed to the public for a time during the first phase of the COVID-19 shutdown.

“I feel like this is just one more obstacle in the way of an industry that has been hurdling obstacles since the beginning of time,” Raymond said in reference to the Coronavirus Pandemic and the reopening of the culinary industry. “I feel like it will be a quick comeback, but there might not be as many restaurants standing in a few years. For now, I would ask everybody to do their best to get out there and support local business and the regional economy.”

Located in downtown Waynesville, Frogs Leap Public House is regarded as a cornerstone of fine dining in the mountains of Western North Carolina. Between its cosmopolitan approach towards the menu and presentation, and its keen sense of using local ingredients, the restaurant has become a “must try” culinary destination in our region.

“Nearly every item on our menu will come out of the local market,” Raymond said. “We work with many local farmers and different purveyors, and we’ve always been here to

“I love making people happy, and I don’t do it well any other way except for cooking. So, that’s how I choose to spend my time.”

— Kaighn Raymond

help those purveyors grow. If you have those fresh, local ingredients for the level of fine dining use, then we’re willing to help support you.”

Alongside his wife, Toni, the Raymonds have owned and operated Frogs Leap Public House since its opening day on June 25, 2010.

“I think it was my tenth restaurant opening in my career, but it was probably the hardest because we were in a new town — not knowing my staff, not knowing anybody,” Kaighn said. “And when you’re in a town where no one knows you, and you’re touting yourself as being a real chef, then people are going to hold you to the highest scrutiny — your reputation is on every dish you put out.”

Before you go

Frogs Leap is now open while adhering to COVID-19 spacing and mask protocols. Many restaurants in the region have been affected by COVID-19. Please check with the chambers of commerces to find out about restaurants in the town you are visiting.

Back then, the property was the former home of the Lomo Grill. At that time, Kaighn was an acclaimed chef in Atlanta, Georgia. He eventually found himself in Waynesville and knew there was something special about the small town.

“I dined at Lomo a few times, and I always had an eye on this building,” Kaighn said. “And when I finally decided to leave Atlanta, this was the only place I wanted to be — in this building and in Waynesville itself. So, we got to work and finally made it happen.”

Since the 1980s, the average American palate has become more and more sophisticated towards fine dining options, especially with the farm-to-table movement across the country in recent years, where the consumer now actively seeks out fresher ingredients from local sources.

“It’s been a 30-year process in the culinary industry to get to this point in fine dining in America. There was a sentiment then that nothing made in America was at the level of European fine dining,” Kaighn noted. “All of these chefs and fine dining restaurants have tried to bring back all of those great American ingredients because so many delicious things from our own country got lost along the way. And now, those ingredients are becoming part of the American culture again, and people are excited to try those things.”

When asked about what the title “executive chef” means to him, personally and professionally, Kaighn paused for a moment, seemingly reflecting on a 30-year fine dining career in a whirlwind industry.

“Executive chef means that you’re the creative driver behind the team. You’re also the morale and the leadership. And of course, you share those responsibilities with your team,” Kaighn said. “And I try to do my best, because I view it as my responsibility to bring satisfaction to my cooks’ lives, whether financially or creatively — all the blame is mine and all the accolades are theirs.”

And through all of the organized chaos of simply running a restaurant, let alone a fine dining establishment, Kaighn has been able to take a few moments during the pandemic to not only look back at what Frogs Leap Public House has built, but also where the beloved business will go from here.

“I love making people happy, and I don’t do it well any other way except for cooking. So, that’s how I choose to spend my time,” Kaighn said modestly. “I’m certainly not in the business to get rich, nor am I in the business to be lazy. So, that leaves 30 years of my life of really enjoying the feeling I get from making people happy through my cooking. It’s about bringing people together and giving people an escape from their daily existence — it’s uplifting.”

Authentic 1926 Caboose

converted into the ultimate vacation destination!

At Station 451 we combine a unique caboose, bath house, patio and farm land into a tiny house you'll never forget. The bright red storybook caboose was part of the famed Chesapeake and Ohio Railway. The caboose cottage itself is located on a private 20 acre residential farm. It is located minutes to I-40, about 30 minutes to Asheville, 20 miles to Tennessee and a mere 1.5 hours to Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, TN. Station 451 is approximately 10 miles from the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.

Close to hiking, waterfalls, the Blue Ridge Parkway, fly fishing, tubing, kayaking, shopping, fine dining, Harrah's Casino in Cherokee, art galleries, and theater ... you name it and it's a short drive away!

Book your stay:

Station 451 is the vacation!

Unlike a place where you just lay your head at night, this was an adventure like no other. The caboose is so sweet, and the "depot" (bathroom) is luxury. The connecting deck is the best place to be. We loved being out there! It was a great experience and we hope to return.

— Alexandra T.

Super unique, extremely comfy, wonderful location! This place is so fun!!! The location was beautiful and removed enough to feel private but close enough to easily get around town and to the local restaurants and shops. The bath house was beautiful and the amenities were fabulous!

— Sarah G.

the National Register of Historic Places

Cowee School Arts & Heritage Center

Built of local stone in 1943 on the site of a former Civilian Conservation Corps camp, the Cowee School educated area youth for nearly seven decades. The historic structure, in the heart of the Cowee-Wests Mills Historic District, is now an arts and heritage center serving Western North Carolina residents and visitors.

Within a half mile of thousands of years of history, from the ancient Cowee Mound to the Rickman Store, the Cowee School Arts and Heritage Center is the hub of the Nikwasi-Cherokee Cultural Corridor. The center offers classes in the arts, pottery, weaving, shape-note singing, clogging, and mountain music among others. Rental space offers families and groups a place for weddings, reunions, and meetings.

Cowee School is known for its events. The Annual Franklin Area Folk Festival, held on the third Saturday in August and organized through a partnership with the Folk Heritage Association of Macon County, draws thousands of visitors from all over to enjoy cultural arts, music, folk demonstrations, and food. The Cowee

School Summer Concert Series, beginning in May and running through October, offers high quality entertainment from several genres of music, with an emphasis on traditional styles such as bluegrass, Americana, and folk. Except for one up-and-coming band each year, the series includes award-winning nationally and internationally touring bands and musicians.

Arts+Culture

Works

of late

Cherokee artist part of massive collection

When Dr. Michael Abram thinks of the late Cherokee artist John Daniel “Dee” Smith Sr., he can’t help but smile reminiscing about his old comrade.

“We were really good friends and I miss him. We used to sit talk about Cherokee art and history for hours,” Abram said. “He would paint on anything. Artists just have that urge to create with anything around them. Anything is art, and Dee saw that.”

Smith’s works were exhibited earlier this year in the Qualla Arts & Crafts Mutual (located on the Qualla Boundary of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians), and at that time Abram excitedly pointed out the intricate details of the pieces — ranging from watercolors to acrylic paintings to detailed imagery on animal bone.

“Dee’s paintings are beautiful, but it’s the miniatures that are super detailed,” Abram

said, pointing to a small painting on a piece of deer antler. “He told me he would take one single strand of hair from a paintbrush, dip it in paint and then draw the scene one line at a time.”

Smith passed away in 2013. He was known for his use of color, detail, and experimentation for paint surfaces. Along with classic canvas, he would also paint on animal skulls, elk antlers, feathers, and more.

Alongside the pieces depicting Smith’s extensive artistic career and talents, there’s also a section of the exhibit dedicated to the Trail of Tears, which was the tragic removal of native tribes in the 1830s from ancestral homelands to west of the Mississippi

River, many of which not surviving the arduous journey.

A portion of Smith’s artwork focuses on the Trail of Tears, with Abram also adding the entire 1835 Henderson Roll underneath of the paintings. A census of the Cherokee Nation taken by the United States government, the roll itemizes the families, land and skillsets of those ripped from their homes and sent west, with the exhibit displaying those families torn from Western North Carolina.

“The few Cherokee that remained here [in Western North Carolina] avoided removal by hiding out and laying as low as you can to maybe be overlooked in these mountains,” Abram said.

Originally from Indiana, Abram has been collecting Cherokee artwork since he was a kid, initially being gifted a small pine needle basket from a Cherokee acquaintance who lived in Western North Carolina.

“What has always fascinated me about the Cherokee is that it’s an ancient culture that is right here and alive today, where you can interact and talk with these incredible people — learning about their history, beliefs and values,” Abram said.

From there, Abram relocated to the Great Smoky Mountains in 1989, a place where he and his wife continue to acquire Cherokee artwork in large quantities. The couple travel the country constantly, hosting gallery showcases of the Cherokee artwork and elaborate academic presentations on the vibrant history of the tribe.

See Updates

Visit www.quallaartsandcrafts.com for current hours and information on exhibits and artists.

“You are discovering the past through the present,” Abram said. “You’re not simply looking at an antique. This is one of the few real portals you can find anywhere where you’re interacting with an ancient culture.”

At age 74, Abram estimates the number of items in the collection hovers somewhere in the tens of thousands, so many pieces that he’s “never seen the whole collection at one time,” with the artwork in several storage facilities.

“Anybody can collect art, but you’ve got to

know the background of the culture and the history of the people whose art you’re collecting,” Abram said. “It’s a respect thing — in order to interpret it, you’ve got to see it through the eyes of their culture.”

Known as the Cherokee Heritage Museum & Galleries Permanent Collection, Abram is currently in the process of hopefully finding a physical location for the works in the coming years (part of the collection was located in Summit Village from 1983 to 2010).

In March, Abrams was walking around the Dee Smith and Trail of Tears exhibit proudly, ready and willing to share his knowledge with any and all who walked through the front door. He’s not only keeping the memory his late friend alive, he’s also keenly aware of the importance of making sure these pieces see the light of day, that the Cherokee history will never be covered up by the sands of time.

“If this collection didn’t exist, we would be missing a timeline,” Abram said. “We’ve collected long enough that we’re now into generations of families, where some of these artists have passed on, but we have their pieces preserved.”

Operations of many museums have been affected by COVID-19. Please contact each museum for hours of operation and protocols.

• American Museum of The House Cat

Over 5,000 items dedicated to entire history of the house cat, here and abroad.

4704 U.S. 441 South, Sylva 828.421.0275 or 828.506.1236 www.facebook.com/americanmuseumofthehousecat

• Andrews Art Museum

Exhibits and galleries featuring local and regional artists.

Corner of Chestnut and Third streets, Andrews 828.360.5071 www.andrewsvalleyarts.com

• Appalachian Women’s Museum

An all-volunteer organization that tells the stories of ordinary women leading extraordinary lives. 100 West Hometown Place, Dillsboro 828.482.5860 • www.appwomen.org

• Canton Area Historical Museum

Displays focusing on the cultural history of Canton and Haywood County.

36 Park Street, Canton 828.646.3412 • www.cantonnc.com

• Cherokee County Historical Museum

Artifacts and exhibits showcasing the Cherokee Indians, local history and artisans. 87 Peachtree Street, Murphy 828.837.6792 • www.cherokeecounty-nc.gov

• Clay County Historical & Arts Council Museum

Displays exhibiting the history, art and people of the area.

21 Davis Loop, Hayesville 828.389.6814 • www.clayhistoryarts.org

• Franklin Gem & Mineral Museum

Exhibits on the region’s gems and minerals. 25 Phillips Street, Franklin 828.369.7831 • www.fgmm.org

• Glenville Historical Museum

Showcasing the history and culture of Glenville and greater Western North Carolina. 4735 N.C. 107 North, Glenville • 828.743.1658

• Graham County Museum of Prehistoric Relics

A collection of prehistoric artifacts from North, South and Central America.

3204 Fontana Road, Fontana Dam 828.479.3677 • www.thehikeinn.com

The Appalachian Women’s Museum in Dillsboro.

• Highlands Museum & Historical Village

A village composed of several restored buildings, with historical exhibits in the museum.

524 North 4th Street, Highlands 828.787.1050 • www.highlandshistory.com

• Junaluska Memorial & Museum

Displays dedicated to preserving Cherokee Indian history and culture.

1 Junaluska Drive, Robbinsville 828.479.4727

• Macon County Historical Society & Museum

Antiques and artifacts showcasing the history of Macon and Western North Carolina.

36 West Main Street, Franklin 828.524.9758 • www.maconnchistorical.org

• Mountain Farm Museum

Collection of historical log buildings and artifacts.

150 U.S. 441 North, Oconaluftee Visitor Center 423.436.1200 • www.nps.gov/grsm

• Mountain Heritage Center

Extensive displays of Western North Carolina and Southern Appalachian history.

150 H.F. Robinson Building, Western Carolina University, Cullowhee 828.227.7129 • www.wcu.edu

• Museum of American Cut & Engraved Glass

Exhibits presenting one of the finest collections of its kind in the world

472 Chestnut Street, Highlands 828.526.3415 • www.ashevilleguidebook.com

• Museum of the Cherokee Indian Large exhibits showcasing the extensive and intricate tribe history.

589 Tsali Boulevard, Cherokee 828.497.3481 • www.cherokeemuseum.org

• Museum of North Carolina Handicrafts Featuring unique works from some of the state’s most acclaimed artisans.

49 Shelton Street, Waynesville 828.452.1551 • www.sheltonhouse.org

• Ruby City Gems Museum

Thousands of gem and mineral specimens on display.

131 East Main Street, Franklin 828.524.3967 • www.rubycity.com

• Scottish Tartans Museum

Exhibit on Scottish history and culture abroad and in Western North Carolina.

86 East Main Street, Franklin 828.524.7472 • www.scottishtartans.org

• Wheels Through Time Museum

Rare and extensive collection of vintage motorcycles and classic automobiles.

62 Vintage Lane, Maggie Valley 828.926.6266 • www.wheelsthroughtime.com

• World Methodist Museum

Artifacts and memorabilia celebrating founder John Wesley and the worldwide religion. 575 Lakeshore Drive, Lake Junaluska 828.456.9432 • www.worldmethodistcouncil.org

Arts+Culture

Viva Arts Studio becomes creative hot spot in Sylva

Standing in a two-bay garage in downtown Sylva on a afternoon, Victoria Shufelt was putting the final touches on a pop-up art gallery event.

“For such a small town, I’ve always been blown away by the amount of creative folks here,” Shufelt said. “And this space is a totally blank canvas to come together and create in Sylva.”

That blank canvas is the Viva Arts Studio. What was formerly a cold, empty building has now become a beehive for a wide range of artistic mediums over the last year, all with Shufelt and her husband, Aaron Shufelt, at the helm of this endeavor.

“I wanted something that’s not just a business venture, but also a service to the community, one where little kids all the way up to senior citizens can participate in affordable art projects,” Victoria said. “We also work with several nonprofits and community organizations to be able to bring art to every aspect of the area.”

Following graduation from Western Carolina University in 2017 (with degrees in fine arts and Spanish), Victoria didn’t want to leave the mountains and head back to her native Winston-Salem. It was around this point she found herself as an intern at the Jackson County Green Energy Park in Dillsboro, only to meet Aaron there, who is a resident glassblower at the JCGEP.

“I could have gone to other towns and cities, but there really is something about the people here in Sylva and Western North Carolina,” Victoria said. “There are so many genuine people here, and I haven’t encountered that in many other places — it definitely led me to stay here and put roots down.”

Victoria points to her childhood of being homeschooled as a big factor in her pursuit of access to artistic and creative endeavors in small communities that may otherwise not have the resources or outlets to do so.

“I’m coming from a background where I was fortunate enough to do art every day with a very open teaching approach. All of

See Updates

Like all businesses, Viva Arts Studio has been affected by the global pandemic. Visit www.vivaartsschool.com or call 828.506.6067 for current information.

that made me appreciate art at a young age more so than maybe other people,” she said. “And being a Spanish major in college, I was able to study abroad in Spain and see how art is so much more part of the European education curriculum in the school systems.”

And when she isn’t offering classes and workshops in the studio, Victoria is also taking her passions on the road, offering pottery and painting classes at local senior centers and breweries in Jackson County.

“We had a pottery class recently at the Innovation Station taproom [in Dillsboro] and it was completely sold out — it was a wonderful experience,” Victoria said. “You’re running your own business like this, you’re being vulnerable, you’re sharing your art and you’re teaching art. There’s a lot of risk in putting yourself out there, and to see such community appreciation for art means so much to me.”

With the recent pop-up gallery at the studio, Viva teamed up with the newly formed

“I wanted a place where people — regardless of background, age or whatever — can come to a space and create freely, and can grow artistically.”

— Victoria Shufelt

Sylva Art + Design Committee, of which Victoria is a member alongside several local business owners and artisans aiming to be a catalyst for the arts in the region.

“SADC has definitely done a lot to encourage artistic growth in Sylva — the mural on Ward Heating & Plumbing, small paintings

around downtown, pop-up galleries,” she said. “And that says a lot about the town because you might not find that everywhere. All of this just goes to show how art is valued in the mountains.”

Cleaning up the studio in preparation for the pop up gallery, Victoria still finds herself in awe of seeing her dream of art education coming to fruition, the studio proof positive that what she has — and will — offer is something vital to the culture and societal interactions of Sylva and greater Jackson County.

“I wanted a place where people — regardless of background, age or whatever — can come to a space and create freely, and can grow artistically,” she said. “Sometimes we don’t recognize how much art is implemented into these different areas of our lives, but art grows us as human beings. It’s been a wonderful journey so far with the studio and I can’t wait to see where it goes from here.”

Outdoors+Recreation

The spiritual appeal of waterfalls

Whether one is an avid outdoorsman or an occasional hiker, there is something special about making a gorgeous waterfall the destination for a hike.

SELECT WATERFALLS

Bridal Veil Falls

Bridal Veil Falls is easy to get to and impossible to miss. If you are headed west from Highlands through the Cullasaja Gorge on U.S. 64, the falls will go over a small pull off road on the right. The falls isn’t nearly as impressive as the other falls in the Gorge, but after all, how often do you get the chance to drive your car under a waterfall?

Bridal Veil Falls is 2.3 miles west of Highlands on U.S. 64. You’ll see a pull off road on the right side of U.S. 64 under the falls.

Dry Falls

Dry Falls is one of the most popular waterfalls in Western North Carolina and an easy stop if you are seeing the other falls on U.S. 64 through the Cullasaja Gorge. Visitors can walk behind the falls

and to the other side. The powerful waterfall is about 65 feet tall.

Dry Falls is in between Quarry Falls and Bridal Veil Falls about three miles west of Highlands on U.S. 64. There’s a small parking area on the left if you are headed west. Signs mark the falls on both sides of the road. If you come on a Saturday during peak tourist season, a parking space will be hard to come by. The trail to the falls is short with some steps.

Cullasaja Falls

Cullasaja Falls is the final waterfall on the Cullasaja River before leaving the Gorge. The falls, a 200-foot cascade, is powerful and beautiful. You can get a good view of it from the road, but it would be difficult to get to the base. The downside to Cullasaja Falls is that the pull off is small and is a dangerous place for traffic to stop.

Cullasaja Falls is about two and a half miles west of Quarry Falls on U.S. 64. The pull off is small and at a sharp curve. The small pull off fills up quickly during peak tourism days. Heading west, the pull off is on the left side of the road.

Mingo Falls

On the Qualla Indian Reservation in Cherokee, you’ll find the popular Mingo Falls. A small creek falls about 150 feet over mossy rocks. Access to the falls is good – if you can handle lots of steps. A small bridge goes across the creek, giving hikers a face on view of the falls.

Coming from Cherokee, head north on U.S. 441. You’ll turn right onto Acquoni Road. There will be signs telling you to turn there for Big Cove Road. In about 0.1 mile, turn left on to Big Cove Road. Again you’ll see signs pointing to Big Cove Road. Drive about 5 miles and turn right into Mingo Falls Campground. The parking area is straight ahead. The trail starts there, goes up a lot of stairs, levels out and comes to a bridge overlooking the falls. The trail is about 265 yards.

Soco Falls

Soco Falls is one of the closest large falls to Waynesville. Two creeks flow over steep rock cascades at a right angle from each other. There’s a wooden platform that faces the higher of the two falls. The other falls is nearly impossible to see face on without going down to the base of the falls. There's a really steep dirt incline that goes down there without a lot to hold on to.

From Waynesville, drive north on U.S. 19. You’ll pass under the Blue Ridge Parkway. After passing the Blue Ridge Parkway, drive 1.4 miles to a pull off on the left. At the corner before the pull off you want, you’ll see a large gravel pull off. This is actu-

Visiting a frozen waterfall can be a magical experience, but always exercise caution.

ally a private driveway and not the way to Soco Falls. A sign on the right side of the road will tell you to go another half mile. Find a pull off with a guardrail.

A short, steep path goes down between the guardrails. Follow the trail, which leads to a wooden platform. The trail beyond the platform is steeper and more difficult but will take you to the top of one of the falls. A dirt incline leads to the bottom of the falls that you’d have to slide down. It looks like it would be a challenge to get back up.

Midnight Hole

If you’re looking for a good place to jump in the water, this is it. Midnight Hole is very popular and crowded at times. There’s a rope that goes up one of the boulders so swimmers can jump off the rocks into the pool. The water is cold and crystal clear and feels wonderful after a hike on a hot, muggy afternoon. Take I-40 Exit 451 in Tennessee. It will be the first exit after you cross the state line. Stay left after crossing the Pigeon River and follow the road 2 miles. You’ll drive by a power plant and community park. You’ll come to a stop sign at an intersection. Go straight through the intersection and enter the Big Creek section of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles to a picnic area and campground entrance.

From the parking area, walk back up the road. You’ll see a sign on the left for the trailhead. The hike to Midnight Hole is about 1.5 miles. Stay on the main path and the hole is on the left. The hike is easy. Horses and their riders also frequent the trail.

Waterfall on

West Fork Pigeon River

The waterfall on West Fork Pigeon River runs under an old stone bridge on N.C. 215. Although this waterfall isn’t one to plan a trip around, if you’re driving to the other falls on N.C. 215, it’s worth a stop. You can take shots from the road and the bridge but watch out for traffic.

The waterfall is under a bridge on N.C. 215, 4.2 miles from where N.C. 215 crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s 13.6 miles south of where N.C. 215 intersects with U.S. 276.

Outdoors+Recreation

Plans ready for 150-mile Hellbender Trail

Local governments and residents of Western North Carolina have been working for years to improve and construct greenways. Now, there is a plan to connect local trails, greenways, multi-use paths and other bicycle and pedestrian infrastructure into one long trail — the 150-mile, Hellbender Trail.

This region’s economy is based heavily in the outdoor tourism industry. In 2017 “Business North Carolina” estimated the tourism industry in Western North Carolina at over $3 billion. Land of Sky Regional Council — a multi-county, local government, planning and development organization — developed

the idea of the Hellbender Trail as an opportunity to work with local governments and create something greater than the sum of its parts. Something that would be an added attraction to a region full of outdoor recreation activities.

“We are currently watching the success of

other regional trails in the Southeast. The Carolina Thread trail in Charlotte, the Swamp Rabbit in Greenville, the Virginia Creeper in Virginia, the American Tobacco Trail, those types of infrastructure projects help people get outside, make them more active, and can really be a boon to local

Lines are Conceptual.

“We’ve heard that on the local level for a long time in our region. We have heard from several people that they want to be able to go between communities and right now that’s not something that our infrastructure facilitates.”

— Tristan Winkler

naluska Greenway. So the vast majority is based on local plans but there were a few areas where, in order to stitch the network together we came up with some additional recommendations,” said Winkler.

The majority of those local trails are still just in the plans. Of the 150 miles that would make up the Hellbender Trail, only 12 currently exist on the ground. Those 12 miles are not connected, spread out between Brevard, Hendersonville, Asheville and Waynesville. According to a breakdown of mileage, an additional 18 miles are potentially funded, 8 more miles are being engineered, 45 more are currently being studied and the last 67 are tentatively mapped out.

According to Winkler, one important partner in the project is the North Carolina Department of Transportation. As part of North Carolina DOT’s “Complete Streets” policy, every time they improve a road the DOT is required to at least consider bicycle and pedestrian accommodations. The most recent update to the policy says that if there’s a multi-use path, bike lane or sidewalk in an adopted plan, DOT will include that feature for free for local governments when it’s time to improve the road.

“So there’s a lot of potential overlap between DOT’s planned projects and where local governments have envisioned adding bicycle and pedestrian infrastructure. So they have been and will be a key partner in implementing this project,” he said.

businesses,” said Tristan Winkler, director of the French Broad River Metropolitan Planning Organization. “For us, we know there’s a lot of people who make trips to go enjoy that infrastructure, and it’s something to us that would really fit in our region. A region that’s really known for outdoor recreation.”

The Hellbender Trail would rely exclusively on existing and planned local trails in Buncombe, Henderson, Haywood, Madison and Transylvania counties. As the idea for the trail developed, Land of Sky Regional Council began looking at and suggesting changes to local plans that would allow for connections between communities and ultimately one, continuous, 150-mile trail system.

“Henderson County has developed a greenways master plan, Buncombe has had one for a few years, Haywood developed a

bike plan. A lot of our jurisdictions have plans on the books. Waynesville is working on Richland Creek, Canton has recently finished up their bike/ped plan. From our perspective, at the regional level, we started looking at it like, there’s been so much planning, what if we look at all those plans, and see where they might start to piece together, and if they piece together,” said Winkler.

After compiling all the locally planned trails, Land of Sky Regional Council began to fill in the gaps in connections between trails.

“There were a few areas where we kind of suggested where connections might be made, or where connections might be feasible. For us that mainly included connecting Weaverville to Mars Hill, right now that’s not in any local plan. In Haywood County, connecting the Pigeon River over to the Ju-

But in the end, implementation of plans will come down to each local government. According to Winkler, feedback about the project has been “overwhelmingly positive.”

“I think a lot of people really want to see more trails,” he said. “We’ve heard that on the local level for a long time in our region. We have heard from several people that they want to be able to go between communities and right now that’s not something that our infrastructure facilitates.”

The plan is open for public comment through Aug. 21, and is available in its entirety at frenchbroadrivermpo.org.

As for the name, the workgroup wanted something unique to the region, memorable, marketable and including an ecological lens. After several other considerations, Hellbender was chosen because it promotes an interesting local aspect of the environment, it reflects the natural appeal of the region and, as the plan says, “sounds as rugged as the Southern Appalachians.”

Outdoors+Recreation

Blue Ridge Parkway serves up the best of the mountains

The Blue Ridge Parkway is a National Parkway and All-American Road that winds for 469 miles from the southern end of Shenandoah National Park’s Skyline Drive in Virginia to U.S. 441 at Oconaluftee in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park near Cherokee. It’s hard to get lost on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It only goes in two directions — north or south. Short, wooden posts along the edge of the road mark off each mile — the entire 469-mile length of the Parkway — making it easy to know exactly where you are. The milemarker is listed for the recommended stops on the Parkway below, and should be easy to find by watching the mileposts. Hint: the numbers get bigger as you go south, so the end of the Parkway in Cherokee is mile 469.

The Parkway boasts more than 200 overlooks and more than 100 trails. The local section of the Parkway runs from the southern end in Oconaluftee to the Pisgah Inn on the Haywood, Transylvania County line. Along this stretch of scenic road you’ll find highlights such as the Parkway’s highest elevation overlook at Richland Balsam (6,053 feet), views of Cold Mountain made famous by author Charles Frazier, Waterrock Knob and Oconaluftee Visitors Centers, and Devil’s Courthouse Trail.

The Parkway is made for exploring. Here are few suggested highlights in our region, but feel free to ignore them. It’s all about the journey, not the destination.

SELECTED STOPS

Waterrock Knob Visitors Center, milemarker 451

A must for Parkway travelers. Stop here to get recommendations from park rangers on things to do and see, plus pick up a free Parkway map and browse the bookstore. Views are fabulous if you are looking for a picnic spot. Also, there is a one-mile hike to the summit of Waterrock Knob. Interesting fact: the visitor center is powered by solar panels.

Richland Balsam, milemarker 432

The views are great all along the Parkway, but there’s even a milestone achievement available for those don’t want to hike but prefer just getting out of their car to take a picture, enjoy the view, or have a picnic. Just about halfway between the Balsam Gap (U.S. 23-74) and N.C. 215 entrance to the Parkway, near milepost 432, is the Parkway’s highest point (6,053 feet), which is marked with a large sign and a great overlook. Just a mile away at milepost

431 is the Richland-Balsam Self-Guiding Trail, which is just one mile long and meanders through a spruce-fir forest. You’ll top out at an elevation of 6,410 feet, the 10th highest peak in the Eastern U.S.

Devil’s Courthouse, milemarker 422

This one-mile round-trip trail leads to the top of stunning rock formation, a giant pedestal that seems to rise up magically from the mountains around it and makes you feel like you’re on top of the world looking out. Despite the sheer drop off all around you, rock walls provide a sense of safety — just don’t hop over them or let kids climb on the edge. Ecologically, visitors should stay off the cliff face, which is home to peregrine falcons and endangered rock-clinging lichens and plant life. The trail is steep but paved, making it accessible to anyone if you take it slow and steady.

Sam’s Knob, milemarker 420

Stellar hiking trails lead into the Shining Rock Wilderness, passing over grassy balds, rock outcrops, high elevation streams and fir forests. The

area is riddled with trails, some of which extend for miles into the Shining Rock Wilderness, so if you don’t have a map, watch the way you came carefully. To reach the parking area, turn down a gravel forest service road.

Upper Falls at Graveyard Fields, milemarker 419

A high-elevation bowl home to two waterfalls, a swimming hole and crystal clear rocky stream. Unlike the dense forests that engulf most hiking trails in the Smokies, this area is defined by open meadows.

Mt. Pisgah (5,749 feet)

Located near milepost 408, this mountain with the Biblical name used to be part of the George Vanderbilt Estate (he’s the man who built Biltmore Estate). A parking area is well marked, and the hike is only about a mile but it is relatively strenuous to the platform atop the mountain. Once there, however, the 360-degree views are fabulous. Nearby campground and one of the only restaurants on the Parkway at the Pisgah Inn.

Oconaluftee Visitor Center

Along with knowledgeable rangers who can help you plan your time in the park, fabulous exhibits will take you back in time among the early settlers and Cherokee who called these mountains home. The visitor center chronicles the culture and history of the Smokies, from exhibits on the Civil War in the Smokies to moonshine making. Located on U.S. 441 at the North Carolina entrance to the park, north of Cherokee and near the terminus of the Blue Ridge Parkway. 828.497.1904.

Mountain Farm Museum

This stroll through an historic Appalachian farm offers a window on the ingenuity and self-reliance of early mountain people and Cherokee. A blacksmith shop to make everything from barn door hinges to horseshoes, a spring house to keep milk and butter cool, and sundry buildings for storing the food they raised, from corn cribs to apple houses to smoke houses. The outhouse is a guaranteed eye-opener for kids. Located at the entrance to the park on U.S. 441 just north of Cherokee.

Deep Creek

Enjoy a little of everything at Deep Creek. Hiking to waterfalls, picnicking, mountain biking, camping and what Deep Creek is famous for: tubing. Several outfitters rent inner tubes to float all day in the creek. This is a fantastic place to visit for a few hours because you can do so many different activities without having to go to different places. If you are in the Bryson City area, treat yourself to a visit.

Mingus Mill

The rumble of mill stones, the whistle of corn meal sliding down the wooden shoot, the slap-slap-slap of water falling over the giant paddle wheel. Explore this historic site just one mile from the park entrance on U.S. 441 north of Cherokee.

Clingmans Dome

A paved half-mile trail leads to a soaring lookout tower atop the highest peak in the Smokies. At 6,643 feet, the panoramic view offers spectacular scenery and is one of the best examples of the region’s famed blue mountain ridges marching endlessly across the horizon. The tower features a spiraling 375-foot ramp to the top.

Cataloochee Valley

History and nature intersect in this picturesque meadow, a long, narrow valley cradled by mountains on all sides. An elk herd has been re-introduced into the park and calls the valley home. Cataloochee Valley is also home to a former mountain settlement, with intact farm houses, churches, schoolhouse and cemeteries that can be toured by car and short walks. Pick up an interpretive brochure at the campground on the left after you get down to the valley floor that describes the historic buildings.

Big Creek

This relatively isolated area is a favorite of locals, with a campground, bathroom, picnic area and jumping off point for some great hikes into the Smokies, including the all-day hike up to Mount Cammerer lookout tower. One of the coldest, clearest swimming holes in the Smokies — aptly named Midnight Hole — is a short one-mile-hike up the wide Big Creek Trail.

Western North Carolina’s national treasure

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park has an amazing array of mini-ecosystems — from peaks over 6,000 feet to low valleys, from moist densely forested coves to dry meadows. A walk from mountain base to peak compares with traveling 1,250 miles north. Several resident plants and animals live only in the Smokies.

The park has more than 100 species of trees and 4,000 species of plants. Some people say if you throw a rock and then trace its path, you’re likely to walk by at least 30 different kinds of trees.

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park encompasses more than 500,00 acres and straddles North Carolina and Tennessee, making it the largest national park in the East.

Breweries Since the 90s 90s th e n werew B Bre re r ies nce c Si S he 90 Supporting Our Local ca L Sup Supp p ng or Our al Lo o porting r up g cal ri i ting Brew the0s s es port o SupportingOu e ce e n Ou Br r gOL e iO

Outdoors+Recreation

Higher ground

Why do we seek the high places?

The easiest explanation for going to the mountains is for the scenery. Even so, there must be something ingrained in the human experience that draws us to lofty summits and places where we can look out over the landscape. The reasons vary from the practical to the spiritual.

High places represent safety and security. Elevated vantage points have been used throughout history for human survival. From the heights, an approaching enemy can be detected from a long distance, or an attack more easily fended off. A path through unknown territory might be scouted out as waterways and passes can all be seen better from a high perch. Hunters are better able spot herds of animals from an overlook. Migratory animals often use mountain ridges to travel long distances. Surely the Cherokee utilized ridge tops in their network of trails

SELECTED PEAKS

Mt. Pisgah (5,749 feet)

Located near milepost 408, this mountain with the Biblical name used to be part of the George Vanderbilt Estate (he’s the man who built Biltmore Estate). A parking area is well marked, and the hike is only about a mile but it is relatively strenuous to the platform atop the mountain. Once there, however, the 360-degree views are fabulous.

Tsali’s Fontana Lake overlooks (2,000 feet plus)

If you’re a mountain biker, too often you are in the trees or too dog tired after a climb to enjoy the views, but there are several in Tsali that are worth getting off your bike and using as a rest break, photo-op or both. All of these are just above 2,000 feet in elevation, but because of the lake’s backdrop they make for stunning views. Tsali Recreation Area is located 12 miles west of Bryson City in the Nantahala National Forest. Go west on U.S. 74 and turn right on N.C. 28. Tsali is about five minutes down the road. Once there, the Mouse Branch, Right and Left loops all have great overlooks. According Timm Muth, author Mountain Biking North Carolina, the

Mouse Branch overlook 4.5 miles into that loop is the most stunning. On the Right it’s Windy Gap Overlook and the overlook on the Left trail isn’t named. All are fabulous.

Mt. LeConte (6,643 feet)

The vistas are endless in the Smokies, but getting to the top of this mountain has the added advantage of being to check out LeConte Lodge, the only commercial lodging facility in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There are five trails to the lodge, the shortest and steepest being Alum Cave Trail at 5 1/2 miles, which a hiker in good condition can do in approximately four hours. None of these trails can be considered a stroll and you occasionally encounter ice and snow as late as May or as early as October. The other trails are Rainbow Falls and Trillium Gap, each 6.5 miles, a hike of about five hours; Bullhead at 7.2 miles and about five hours; and Boulevard, 8 miles and about 5 1/2 hours. Parking is available at the start of each trail. Once at the top signs lead to the best overlooks.

Wayah Bald (5,342 feet)

The Nantahala Mountains are not as tall as the Smokies, but the views are every bit as stunning.

This is a land of 4,000- and 5,000-foot mountains in one of the region’s wildest areas. Follow State Route 1310 out of Franklin until you pass Wayah Crest, where there is a camping area. A forest service road, with signs, leads to the parking area at Wayah Bald, where there is an old Civilian Conservation Corps firetower made of stone. Views from the platform are wonderful, and the Appalachian Trail passes right by.

Max Patch (4,629 feet)

This may be the most scenic bald in the Smokies as well as one of the most accessible. From the top, the 360-degree views, the sheer vastness of the bald (which is mowed by the Forest Service) and the beauty is well worth the trip. Since the trail to the parking area is about a quarter of a mile max, it’s a great place to picnic and watch the sunset. Take Exit 7, the Harmon Den Exit, off Interstate 40 and turn right off the exit onto Cold Springs Creek Road. The dirt road goes into Pisgah National Forest. Stay on the main road for several miles until you come to a sign for Max Patch. It is a left-hand turn. Stay on the road until you come to a parking area with an unobstructed view of the bald. Follow the trail to the top of the bald and it intersects with the Appalachian Trail.

connecting villages and hunting grounds.

There is something about the Appalachians that evokes a deep emotional response in most folks. When you are able to get an encompassing view of your surroundings, you automatically know more about your place in the world. For many, this serves to stimulate the curiosity to learn about nature or to seek wilderness. Others find the experience to be humbling, revealing the relative insignificance of the individual in the vastness of creation.

The religious and spiritual connection with natural heights is easily explained in the context of being closer to Heaven, the gods and spirits. On Mt. Sinai, God presented Moses with the Ten Commandments and on Mt. Pisgah, Moses got a glimpse of the Promised Land. Native Americans attached sacred significance to high places. The Incas performed human sacrifice on sacred peaks in the Andes. Monks of various Eastern religions have built almost inaccessible monasteries on high precipices.

At times, mountain travel involves personal challenge and extraordinary risk. When asked why he wanted to climb Mt. Everest, George Mallory replied, “Because it is there.” Whether Mallory reached the summit in 1924 is still in question, but the

same adventurous spirit still drives many to climb the most difficult mountains. Even in Western North Carolina, the most remote peaks require no small amount of effort to reach.

“Peakbagging” is the sport of getting to the top of as many peaks as possible. Hiking up a mountain is great exercise. The air is less dense and flows easily in and out of your lungs, but the lower concentration of oxygen means greater oxygen debt during physical activity. Eventually, the body becomes more efficient and compensates. Unfortunately, summer hikers in the Smokies may have difficulty with respiration due to the low oxygen density combined with high ozone levels caused by pollution from autos and power plants.

Visiting the high places can even be a social event. In Japan, large numbers of hikers may crowd a summit trail. The camaraderie of sharing the journey and the view with good friends or a loved one is definitely a bonding experience and often requires cooperation to get there. On the other hand, the sense of solitude one experiences when standing alone on a lofty wilderness summit is difficult to describe or explain.

(Ed Kelley is a photographer, musician and outdoorsman who lives in Waynesville)

Dogwood Crafters

has been a showcase of handmade traditional mountain crafts, as well as a treasure of memorable gifts since 1976!

Outdoors+Recreation

Waynesville woman sets record, raises trail rehab money with LeConte hike

The first time Nancy East visited the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, it was the 1990s and she was in veterinary school. But those squeezed-in backpacking excursions provided the catalyst for her later decision to move to Western North Carolina, and 25 years later, East finished hiking all 850 miles of trails running through the park’s 816 square miles of land.

East, 47, reached that milestone over Labor Day weekend in 2019, but the Waynesville resident swiftly found herself in need of a new challenge.

“I wanted to do something for the park, especially for the trails, but do more than writing a check of my own,” she said.

So, East decided to tackle the Tour de LeConte.

Planning the attempt

It’s not a decision that many have made. Completing the challenge requires hiking all six trails leading to Mount LeConte — a total

of 44 miles by East’s count — within a 24hour period. Only 35 people are known to have done it.

East wanted to do the hike as a fundraiser, setting up a donation portal through Friends of the Smokies where folks could give money toward rehabilitation efforts along Trillium Gap Trail, which is one of the routes to LeConte. Launched in spring 2019, the two-year effort is supported by the Trails Forever program, a partnership between the park and Friends of the Smokies. The program aims to rehabilitate high-use and highpriority trails using private donations. With a maintenance backlog valued approaching $250 million, the park often lacks the federal funding it needs to address important issues like trail degradation.

At the outset, East had two goals — to raise at least $5,000 and to post the fastest known time for a female hiker. She achieved both. With a time of 16 hours and 13 minutes, East broke the record she’d set out to.

She didn’t do it alone. East completed the

hike alongside Chris Ford, 51, a retired Air Force veteran who lives in Knoxville. The two met through a hiking MeetUp group they’re both part of — they hike well together. With the leaderboard containing a record time for male hikers of 10 hours and 3 seconds, set by Dave Worth in August 2011, Ford didn’t post the fastest time on the men’s side. But he and East together set the fastest known time for a mixed-gender hiking team. While moving, they set an average speed of 2.91 miles per hour, with an overall average speed of 2.73 miles per hour.

For pretty much anybody, 44 miles in a day is a lot of miles. In the weeks preceding the hike, East and Ford trained. Each week, they’d go on a long hike of 30 miles or more, along with a “shorter” hike of 10 to 15 miles and some weight training in the gym. Conditioning her feet was the main thing, said East.

“My legs felt strong the whole time, but my feet definitely had to get toughened up to that kind of mileage,” she said.

Hiking in the dark

Regardless of what kind of shape you’re in, it takes a while to hike 44 miles, so East and Ford got started early — like, 12:45 a.m. early.

“It was nutty,” she said. “And that was the hardest thing for me psychologically.”

After waking up from where they’d camped at Greenbrier Campground, the two ate some breakfast and drove to Cherokee Orchard, starting out on the Bullhead Trail by 2 a.m.

For East, Bullhead has long been the hardest of the six trails on the day’s itinerary. It’s 6 miles long with an elevation gain of 1,600 feet, and the wildfires of 2016 left it exposed to the sun and wind. In training hikes, done during sunnier parts of warmer days, East had found the trail hot and difficult, it was cool in the pre-dawn hours, the city lights of Gatlinburg spread out below.

“We just zipped up it, and it was wonderful,” said East. “It set a nice stage for the hike, knowing that one was over.”

By 4:18 a.m. they were on top of LeConte, where they took a seven-minute break to refill water bottles, use the bathroom and eat a quick snack before descending once more, this time via the Boulevard Trail.

Heading downhill, the cool air was a problem, causing East’s legs to cramp. A thick fog rolled in, but they pressed on, making it down to Newfound Gap by 7:08 a.m., where they’d left Ford’s car. From there, they stocked up on snacks and drove to the next trailhead, starting on Alum Cave Trail at 7:31 a.m. Despite having already hiked 14 miles that day, they finished the 5-mile trail just seven minutes slower than they had during a training hike the previous week, on fresh legs.

Help the Smokies

The fundraiser associated with Nancy East’s and Chris Ford’s Tour de LeConte effort is still open at www.friendsofthesmokies.org/product/nancyeast-chris-ford-fundraiser. Donations of all sizes are welcome.

begin to lift. They “cruised” down the trail, before long reaching the parking lot to start their final ascent via Trillium Gap Trail at 11:44 a.m.

Welcome surprises

At 8.9 miles, it’s the longest trail of the six, and by the time they started it East and Ford had been awake for 12 hours, having hiked nearly 30 miles in that time. Around 1:45 p.m., the rain rolled in and fatigue was beginning to take its toll — at one point around 2 p.m., East recalls, she couldn’t even do the basic math in her head needed to figure out how much more hiking they had to do.

Once more atop LeConte, the two repeated their quick routine of bathroom break, water refills and snack time before taking the Rainbow Falls Trail down for their second descent, this time with the sun risen and the peak fall colors fully visible. It was while hiking Rainbow Falls that East felt the cramping in her legs subside and her spirits

“Mentally I was definitely starting to get a little fuzzy, but as far as mental attitude I was positive and felt like we were both really in good spirits the whole time,” she said. “I think that’s so key.”

But if East’s spirits needed a boost, they got it when she summited LeConte for the final time that day. At the top of the mountain was her best friend, Diana Laursen, waiting in the drizzle for the hikers to arrive.

“It was this gift from the heavens coming out and greeting us,” East recalls.

It was still pitch black during the first

She hugged her friend, took a picture, and was soon on her way once more. Laursen didn’t hike down with them — she didn’t want to slow down her friend’s pace.

By this time, East and Ford were in the final stretch, just a handful of miles away from completing the challenge they’d set out to conquer. Their spouses were supposed to come and pick them up, and seeing them waiting there, partially hidden beneath umbrellas, was the day’s biggest reward.

“It was one of those life moments you never forget,” said East. “The way the trail ends, there’s a long stretch that you could see that trailhead, so as we got closer we could kind of start making out those umbrellas and then the shape of those bodies, and then we realized, that’s them. So that was really special.”

East slept hard that night and enjoyed the Chick-fil-A salad and milkshake her husband had brought her. But she’s already itching for the next challenge.

“I need to regroup and think about it more, but something I’m sure will pop into my head,” said East. “I just need a good, long hike to figure it out.”

Outdoors+Recreation

Mountain Biking

This is one of the fastest growing recreational activities in the Smokies, one easily witnessed by all the vehicles with mountain bikes strapped to the back or top. Pretty straightforward as to why so may partake of this sport: the Smokies contain some of the best bike trails anywhere. Here are the popular spots:

Cherokee’s Fire Mountain Trail System

Twelve-mile system with wide variety of terrain from beginners to relatively serious downhill sections. This is one of the bestmaintained trail systems in the Smokies region. Trailhead is in downtown Cherokee at the Oconaluftee Indian Village

Tsali Recreation Area

This is the granddaddy of Western North Carolina mountain biking, boasting 40 miles of trails on four loops. Rated as one of top 10 places to ride in the U.S. Fast, hard-packed singletrack, and you can’t go wrong with any of the loops. Off N.C. 28 past Bryson City, or if coming from Robbinsville N.C. 143 until you reach N.C. 28, go east. Entrance on north side of N.C. 28, well-marked.

The Santeetlah Lake Trail

A 15-mile trail open to mountain bikes, horses, and hikers. The trail follows a number of open and gated Forest Service roads with a short portion of single-track. Large sections of the trail hug the shoreline of Lake Santeetlah offering beautiful mountain lake views. The primary trailhead is located at the intersection of N.C. 143 (NC 1127) and Snowbird Road

Jackrabbit Mountain

Located next to the huge Jackrabbit Campground at Lake Chatuge, this 14-mile trail system is gaining popularity fast. Mostly flat with rolling dips and berms and just a few technical areas. At Lake Chatuge get on N.C. 175, turn onto Jackrabbit Road, signed parking area on left.

Western Carolina University Trail

More than 7 miles of singletrack across the street from main WCU campus in Cullowhee. The trail system has two trailheads. One is located near the softball field and picnic area on WCU main campus, east of N.C.107. Trail users then travel through the pedestrian tunnel under N.C. 107 and access the trail on NCCAT

property. The second trailhead is located at the Health and Human Sciences building.

Bent Creek, Asheville

Located near where N.C. 191 intersects the Blue Ridge Parkway and I-26, this favorite among Asheville locals because of its proximity to this outdoors-loving city. Lots of hardpacked singletrack with very few technical sections, great place for beginner to intermediate riders and for children. www.mtbikewnc.com.

Dupont State Park

Located near Brevard, this has become one of the premier destinations in the region. 10,000 acres of trails, waterfalls, and rivers. Great spot with numerous trailheads. www.dupontforest.com.

Pisgah National Forest near Brevard

Hundreds of miles of trails for bikers, some of it among the most technical in the region. For information on specific trails and trailheads, visit www.mtbikewnc.com.

Nantahala Outdoor Center, Bryson City

The Nantahala Outdoor Center in the Nantahala Gorge has its own trail, which allows riders to try their hand at some technical maneuvering. The 4.5-mile Flint Ridge Trail system was designed specifically for mountain bikers. It features technical riding as well as some rolling single-track. Directions: From Bryson City, go south on U.S. 74 for 12 miles and the NOC campus will be on the right. The highway will narrow to two lanes after about 8 miles. www.noc.com

Fontana Village, Robbinsville

There are a ton of trails in the village, which has closed due to COVID-19, each of them labeled and fairly well blazed. Mix and match from numerous options to make your own loop. You can get a good bit of climbing and long descents, plus technical rock gardens, stream and log crossings on the 20-mile trail system. Directions: From Bryson City, take U.S. 74 south 8 miles past Bryson City. Turn right on N.C. 28. Go about 25 miles. www.fontanavillage.com/hiking.

Special Occasions and everyday fashions

Outdoors+Recreation

Going with the flow: Tellico Trout Farm

When he was a kid, Mike Macke used to venture up from Atlanta, Georgia, to the high peaks and low valleys of Western North Carolina with his grandfather.

“He founded the Georgia Gem & Mineral Society, and he’d take us boys rock hunting with him once a month, so we could carry all of his rocks — I’ve always loved this area,” Macke reminisced about his grandfather. “[Later in life], I was able to come across and buy this property in Tellico, and I’ve been here ever since.”

Now 65, Macke has been the proud owner of the Tellico Trout Farm (tucked between Bryson City and Franklin) for the last 25 years. Founded in 1986, it’s the largest commercial hatchery in the eastern United States, to where now the company has built a reputation as one of the finest rainbow trout operations of its kind anywhere.

“We always aimed to keep it a trout farm. With our seven employees, most of them are living on the property and are ready at any moment to solve any problem,” Macke said. “In the trout business, if you lose your water supply for 30 minutes, you lose everything — you always have to be there to make sure everything is running correctly.”

In terms of the business model of TTF, the company specializes in regional stocking of ponds, streams, rivers and lakes; supplying sport fishing clubs and operators; and distribution to fish processing and packaging operations.

In a typical calendar year, the hatchery grows around 300,000 pounds of one-pound or bigger trout, with over four-million eggs

being hatched (including an annual production capacity of over five million fingerlings). By the numbers, TTF sells one in four fingerlings in the state of North Carolina.

“When I bought the property [and farm], I was probably about 40 [years old] back then. And we really didn’t know anything about this business when we first started,” Macke said. “[Back then], what we didn’t kill, we let go in the creek or it got away. It took years to figure out how to do this, and how to do it right.”

With a picturesque 1870 farmhouse as its centerpiece, the TTF sits on a sprawling 250-acre property that flows up through the Tellico Gap, the Appalachian Trail just a few minutes away down a dirt road from Macke’s home and business. The landscape is wild and free, and filled with a rich, vibrant history all its own.

“There’s a big tree on the farm called the ‘Peace Tree’ or ‘Tahlequah’ (aka: ‘Tellico’), which comes from the Cherokee word for ‘peace.’ And it’s claimed that the Cherokee used to settle their tribal disputes at that tree,” Macke noted. “And for me, it’s about the people that live out here. My neighbors are my friends — we’re very social and we look after each other.”

A lifelong trout fisherman, Macke has never taken for granted his time casting a line on a body of water, especially when he finds himself in the backwoods of Western North Carolina.

“It doesn’t matter if you’re with somebody or not, when you’re in the water, it’s calm and peaceful,” Macke said. “You follow your bait and you never know when something’s going to hit or where you’re going to pull a fish from — it’s these little shots of adrenaline that makes you appreciate being out there.”

With the TTF approaching its 35th anniversary in 2021, Macke is proud of what he’s preserved and built upon with the property. But, for him, the work is never done — it’s about a constant evolution to finely tune the highly-sought after products he’s poured his lifeblood into.

“I’m always looking at what I could do next, how I can this place back to where it needs to be, and as close to self-sufficient as possible,” Macke said. “We can grow our own food, grow our own fish. We’ve got goats, sheep and chickens, too. Everything is here, and I just like that world — you can’t find a better piece of paradise anywhere.”

WNC Fly Fishing Trail

All of Western North Carolina is renowned for its fly fishing, and its reputation continues to grow. Jackson County developed the first official, mapped fly fishing trail, and that has been emulated by Swain County. And of course there are plenty of outfitters and guides ready to take visitors to the best fishing holes in the mountains. Below are the stops on Jackson County’s Fly Fishing Trail. Encompassing big rivers, small streams, easy access and backcountry hike-ins, the trail was the first of its kind in the United States. For more information, click on www.flyfishingtrail.com.

Scott Creek

The Stretch: Roughly 10 miles from headwaters near Balsam down to Sylva

Access Point(s): Parking and access available via several pull-off areas along U.S. 23/74 Type of Water: Hatchery supported

Tanasee Creek

The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles from Tanasee Creek bridge up to headwaters

Access Point(s): Parking and access available at bridge on Tanasee Creek Road (SR 1762) Type of Water: Wild Trout

Panthertown Creek

The Stretch: Entire stream, roughly 3 miles

Access Point(s): Parking and access at end of Breedlove Rd (SR 1121), with 2-mile walk to creek Type of Water: Catch and release single hook artificial lure

Raven Fork

The Stretch: Starts at Blue Ridge Parkway bridge near Cherokee and goes north for 2.2 miles

Access Point(s): Parking and access via several pull-off areas along Big Cove Road; paths run along stream Type of Water: Catch and release fly fishing only

Whitewater River

The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles from N.C. 107 down to the South Carolina state line

Access Point(s): Parking and access along N.C. 107, a few miles south of Cashiers

Type of Water: Wild Trout

Scotsman and Fowler Creeks

The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles of each stream flowing down into the Chattooga River

Access Point(s): Access available via Whiteside Cove Rd (SR 1107) or Bullpen Rd (SR 1100) in Nantahala National Forest

Type of Water: Wild Trout with Natural Bait

West Fork Tuckasegee River

The Stretch: From small reservoir at Thorpe Power House upstream several hundred yards

Access Point(s): Parking and access available both sides of N.C. 107 near Thorpe Power House

Type of Water: Hatchery supported

Tuckasegee River (East Laporte Park to N.C. 107 Bridge)

The Stretch: Roughly 2-3 miles from park to bridge

Access Point(s): Parking and access available at East Laporte Park and pull-off areas along Old Cullowhee Road

Type of Water: Hatchery supported

Savannah Creek

The Stretch: About 10 miles from headwaters in Pumpkintown into Tuckasegee River

Access Point(s): Parking and access available via several pull-offs along U.S. 23/441

Type of Water: Hatchery supported

Tuckasegee River (NC 107 Bridge to Dillsboro park)

The Stretch: Roughly 4-5 mile stretch from bridge to the riverside park in Dillsboro

Access Point(s): Parking and access available via numerous pull-offs along North River Road

Type of Water: Delayed harvest

Tuckasegee River (in Dillsboro)

The Stretch: About 1 mile from Dillsboro park through town

Access Point(s): Various places between park and Best Western River Escape Inn

Type of Water: Hatchery supported

HIDDEN GEMS OF THE BLUE RIDGE

Discover talented artists and the small towns where they live as you travel along the new Blue Ridge Craft Trails in Western North Carolina. Experience first-hand the artists creating their work and sharing their stories of what inspires them. Take home their story – and one-of-a-kind pieces directly from the maker.

It’s easy to craft your adventure with ready-made itineraries or a Plan Your Trip tool at BlueRidgeCraftTrails.com. Peruse more than 100 artist studios, galleries and hands-on craft experiences on this drivable trail throughout the North Carolina mountains and foothills. In addition to artists, galleries and arts events, travelers will get tips on rounding out their journey with nearby craft foods, breweries, music, outdoor activities, and scenic views.

A CRAFT HAVEN

For centuries, the mountains and foothills of North Carolina have been known as an epicenter of handmade craft, reaching back to the living arts of the Cherokee.

“The Blue Ridge Craft Trails offer the perfect getaway where all ages can experience craft inspired by the rich traditions forged in the region for generations,” explained Blue Ridge National Heritage Area Executive Director Angie Chandler. “This initiative by the Blue Ridge National Heritage Area is created to celebrate Western North Carolina as a vital center for traditional and contemporary handmade crafts.”

TREASURES WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED

The trails are anchored with renowned sites such as John C. Campbell Folk School, Penland School of Craft, and the Southern Highland Craft Guild. Each place offers hands-on experiences in traditional and presentday craft.

One must-see stop that’s steeped in craft tradition is the Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual in Cherokee. It’s the oldest Native American Cooperative in the United States. It features the works of more than 250 members with a vast selection of baskets, pottery, wood and stone carvings, beadwork, and more.

Tucked into hamlets and coves are plenty of unique artists and sites to take in, from the amazing wood sculptures by Joe Waldroup in Hayesville to the woodfired pottery inspired by nature handcrafted by Dian Magie in Hendersonville. The Blue Ridge Craft Trails offer a wide range of craft experiences to round out an unforgettable road trip getaway.

Outdoors+Recreation

Swinging for the Smokies

There’s nothing like playing a round of golf at high elevation to quicken the blood and make you feel alive. Golf courses in Western North Carolina have attitude as well as altitude, challenging golfers in gorgeous settings. In this mountain region, there are a handful of top-notch public courses, including the Sequoyah National in Cherokee (designed by Robert Trent Jones II) and the historic 27 holes at Waynesville Inn, Golf Resort and Spa. In the Cashiers area of Jackson County,

the scenic High Hampton Inn (undergoing renovation with plans to re-open in 2021) is regarded as one of the most picturesque courses in the country.

Other public area golf courses include:

• Cherokee Hills Golf Club

Murphy

828.837.5853

• Franklin Golf Course

Franklin

828.524.2288 • www.franklingolfcourse.com

Throwing caution to the wind — WNC disc golf

Alongside trail running, hiking and mountain biking, disc golf has become one of the most popular outdoor activities — it really is that much fun. Western North Carolina is home to several fantastic disc golf courses. Here are a handful of local favorites, for beginners all the way up to expert levels:

Beginner — Catamount Links, Western Carolina University, Cullowhee

It’s pretty impossible for one to lose their disc on this course. Looping around the athletic fields, there are wide-open spaces and sparse tree lines. Though there are only 13 holes, many of them are extended in length, and a real treat to be able to truly chuck your disc without fear of it disappearing.

Intermediate — Waynesville Disc Golf Course, Waynesville Recreation Center

Though plenty of holes are very welcoming for beginners, there are definitely some difficult ones. If you don’t know the 18-hole course, which can be a little tricky to navigate, ask the center for a complimentary map, or simply ask around (lots of folks play this course).

Advanced — Haywood Community College, Clyde

Tranquil, quiet course. Not too many folks around. Holes meander into the woods, which surround the school. Nice trails. The 18-holes are somewhat challenging, but not too far out of reach for intermediate players.

Expert — Richmond Hill, Asheville

Quite possibly the most beloved disc golf course in the region, it’s 18 holes of utter chaos looping around a wooded mountain ridge. One hole you’re throwing way uphill, the next it’s back down the other side. Very challenging, but if played with respect and caution (for intermediate players), one can have the time of their lives out there.

• The Golf Club at Mill Creek

Franklin

828.524.4653 • www.thegolfclubatmillcreek.com

• High Hampton Inn & Country Club (undergoing renovation, re-opens in 2021) Cashiers

800.334.2551 • www.highhamptoninn.com

• Lake Junaluska Golf Course

Lake Junaluska

800.222.4930 • www.lakejunaluska.com

• Maggie Valley Club & Resort

Maggie Valley

855.467.2430 • www.maggievalleyclub.com

• The Ridges Golf Club

Hayesville

828.233.5273 • www.theridgesgolfclub.com

• Sequoyah National Golf Club

Whittier

828.497.3000 • www.sequoyahnational.com

• Smoky Mountain Country Club Whittier

800.474.0070 • www.smokymountaincc.com.

• Springdale Country Club Canton

800.553.3027 • www.springdalegolf.com

• Waynesville Inn, Golf Resort and Spa Waynesville

800.627.6250 • www.wccinn.com

Others

As well, there are also courses at Heritage Park (18) in Andrews; Bethel Elementary (9); Meadowbrook Elementary (9) in Canton; and Bear Lake Reserve (9) and the Jackson County Recreation Center (18), both in Cullowhee. For more information on the sport of disc golf and course locations, click on www.pdga.org.