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Table Of COnTEnTs 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4
LETTER FROM THE EDITORS
5 - 8
DENIM
9 - 10
SERUMS
11 - 16
SUSTAINABLE FASHION
17 - 20
“EXTRA” MAKEUP
21 - 22
FASHION ABROAD
23 - 26
SNEAKERS
27 - 30
STUDENT HIGHLIGHT
31 - 34
BEHIND THE COVER
cOnTrIbuTorS Christine Rosato and Ruthie Schmidt Co Editors-in-Chief Tiffany Lopes, Lopes, Managing Editor Sophie Boorstin, Boorstin, Editorial Director Lynn Kim, Kim, Photography Director Grace Halligan, Halligan, Layout Director Vera Wang, Wang, Beauty Director Naomi Berger, Berger, Head Stylist Nani Suzuki, Suzuki, Publicity Director Photographers Joel Harper, Brenne Hoeven, Penelope Hoopes, Sophie Rubenfeld, Alexandra Seewald, Kirubel Tesfaye Stylists Fran Cannon, Zoe Carovano, Emily Fienco, Emmy Goodwin, Hannah Ju, Anna Sakamato Beauty Team Mahi Ghia, Nina Merz, Jackie Prunier, Emma Mae Regan Writers Caroline Boyd, Andrew Charman, Kyle Clark, Danie Edwards, Lilia Harlan, Katherine Kim, Charlotte Miller, Bella Moses, Laura Radulescu Copy Editors Sophie Boorstin, Jo Dine, Katherine Kim, Laura Radulescu Layout Team Andrea Hayman, Elle McCusker, Julia Opatrny, Piper Williams Models Lingli Zou, Calvin Neumeyer, Cam Blair, Geoffrey Ravenhall Meinke, Emily Benson, Vince Sorrentino, Malik Irish, Samantha Chen, Corinne Russell, Erica Seff, Alex Walen, Charlotte Miller, Andrew Charman, Gianna Davino, Charlotte Freed, Sayo Denloye, Jefri Schmidt, Joyce Lee
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LETTER FROM THE EDITORS As current seniors, we both have been working on Signature Style in various roles since our freshman year. From writer and creative director, to stylist and then head stylist, we’ve seen this magazine through numerous iterations. For both of us, however, this is our first issue as Co-Editors-in-Chief. Together, we share so much love and passion for this magazine, and we hope that this shines through in its eleventh issue. Although past issues have had a unifying theme, we wanted to deviate from that tradition for this semester. We feel that one word to encompass a whole issue is often limiting. Instead of focusing on current trends, you end up struggling to find topics that fit the theme, regardless of their relevance. Fashion magazines show the trends and larger cultural landscape for that month or season; sometimes these trends correspond but sometimes they do not. With that being said, for this issue we wanted to highlight Fall 2019’s trends and broader conversations, in a way that is relevant and exciting to the Hamilton community Regardless of the size or location of our school, fashion and self-expression can and should play a role in our daily lives. As such, each of the articles in this issue were chosen because we believe them to be applicable and pertinent to Hamilton students and community members at this time. From “extra” makeup, to the incredibly relevant issue of sustainable fashion, we’ve crafted this issue in such a way that we believe everyone can find an article to connect with. Best,
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models: Lingli Zou, Calvin Neumeyer, Cameron Blair stylists: Emmy Goodwin, Fran Cannon photographer: Penelope Hoopes layout: Andrea Hayman
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denim From Bruce Springsteen’s “Born in the USA” outfit to Paris Hilton’s bedazzled low-rise flare jeans, denim has been a staple of the American wardrobe since its inception as workwear in the 1800s. Throughout the decades, denim has been used in just about any imaginable way. Jeans (and soon followed by overalls) were designed in the 1850s by Levi Strauss as durable trousers for workmen. They soon burst into pop culture via timeless legend James Dean in his 1955 film Rebel Without a Cause. Because of Dean’s “bad boy” image, jeans were banned from schools, theatres, and restaurants for the following decade. From there, the denim rage exploded. In the 60s and 70s, flared bell-bottom jeans became a symbol of freedom, love, rock and roll, and the sexual revolution. Acid-wash, ripped, and colored jeans dominated the 1980s, and the casual hip hop-inspired trends of the 1990s brought baggy, carpenter-style jeans into the spotlight. In the 2000s, the controversial but nonetheless popular low-waisted skinny jeans took over the fashion world. So why are we now shying away from this age-old wardrobe classic? Since runways and fashion magazines have been featuring cargo pants, plaid and corduroy trousers, and work-style pants like Dickies, it might feel like the age of denim is coming to a halt.
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Denim has been around forever; haven’t we done everything we could to make jeans interesting? Clinton is cold, and as college students, sometimes the urge to throw on that comfortable pair of sweats or leggings is just too strong. So what does the future of denim hold? Let me make it clear: denim is not dead, and it most likely never will be because it is not the average short-lived trend. Jeans weren’t made for runways or Calvin Klein ads, they are the pant of ordinary people. Whether your go-to is mom or boyfriend, fit or flare, skinny or skater, the total comfort and confidence that washes over the moment you slide into a perfect pair of jeans is timeless. That kind of feeling could never go out of style. The denim fun doesn’t have to end at the basic blue jean. If you’re feeling adventurous, try experimenting with the extremes of high and low waists or embellishing your favorite baby blues with DIY patches or embroidery. Denim is in no way restricted to pants. Think Paris Hilton’s so- ugly-its-beautiful denim purse or, for a more versatile option, a fleece-lined denim jacket is the perfect go-to for those November days when a sweater won’t quite cut it. And if you just can’t get enough, denim on denim, or the Canadian tux, is an unsuspecting and fun way to revive the classic. So, this fall, dig up that old pair of neglected blue jeans. Denim, with its rich history and endless versatility, is the perfect base to any comfy-chic outfit. Bella Moses
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models: Geoffrey Ravenhall Meinke, Emily Benson stylists: Naomi Berger, Emily Fienco photographer: Brenne Hoeven layout: Julia Opatrny
Serums written by Danie Edwards
It’s 2019 and you know what that means; makeup is out and what’s underneath is in. In the past, a good skincare routine included the basics that we all know and love. One could easily get by with a simple cleanser and moisturizer, and maybe even a toner if they were truly dedicated. However, with the growing popularity and acknowledgment of skincare that makes your skin no-filter ready, many are starting to consider a new product essential to a quality skincare routine: serums. Understanding a serum’s main ingredients and how it functions will help you pick which one is right for your individual skin type. Depending on the intended function, serums usually have either water or oil bases and contain smaller molecules than moisturizers that penetrate the skin more effectively. Although very simple to apply and vital to getting plump glowing skin, finding the right serum can be difficult.
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When looking for a serum that works for you, try narrowing down your choices by skin concern. For example, if you have dry skin, consider adding a hydrating serum to your routine. If you feel that your skin looks tired and dull, look for a serum with Vitamin C as its main ingredient. If you have no clue what you want in a serum, hydrating and Vitamin C serums are great basics to start with before building up your serum knowledge and collection. Simultaneously, look for serums that match your price range. It’s always enticing to drop your paycheck on a fancy serum from an indie brand that sells them in aesthetically pleasing bottles, but there are great options out there that won’t cost more than what you normally spend on other skincare products. Both Amazon and local drugstores have a great collection of affordable yet effective serums, from new vegan brands to the classics that you know and love. Regardless of these tips, when in doubt, do your research. Because what’s the point of having amazing Euphoria-inspired makeup if the skin underneath isn’t glowing from your newest serum?
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Sustainable Fashion 11
models: Vincent Sorrentino, Malik Irish, Samantha Chen, Corinne Russell stylists: Zoe Caravano, Hannah Ju, Anna Sakamoto beauty: Jackie Prunier, Emma Mae Regan, Vera Wang photographer: Kirubel Tesfaye layout: Elle McCusker
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On a planetary scale, clothes matter. The fashion industry is responsible for 5-10% of global carbon emissions and around 20% of global water waste. Even worse, 85% of textiles end up in landfills. The fashion industry in the past few decades has become a globalized catastrophe focused on building money, instead of protecting the planet and supporting the consumer. There should be greater effort to recycle, reuse, and upcycle clothes, and produce them more efficiently. Many new stores are focused on sustainability and efficiency, but old brands have failed to update their policies. In 2018, H&M had 4.3 billion dollars worth of unsold clothes, and almost all of it ended up in landfills. Although H&M is one of the few fast fashion giants reworking their system to be more environmentally friendly, the massive quantity of clothing they produce prevents them from being a truly sustainable business. To be sustainable, companies must scale down. The majority of large fast fashion companies have lax production policies as well. Even if some of the brands are slowly shifting toward sustainability, their workers are often underpaid and overworked. This is a problem. Sustainability should also be a force for social justice. True sustainability puts the planet and workers’ rights at the forefront. So what’s the most sustainable way to shop? Second hand. By thrifting or vintage shopping, you are reusing goods. Also, you aren’t financially supporting fast fashion. This keeps old garments circulating in the industry and prevents perfectly good clothes from entering the landfill. Even better, thrift stores, and sometimes vintage stores, offer clothes at much cheaper prices. Many thrift stores donate a portion of their proceeds to charity or donate the goods they cannot sell. While this system is imperfect as well, it is miles better than supporting fast fashion companies. As thrift stores have become more popular, they have also picked up online. Stores like thredUp, Poshmark, and Depop offer used goods online, so you can filter through materials quicker and find exactly what you need.
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The problem with thrift shopping is that it can be nearly impossible to find a particular item. If you have a certain piece in mind, or a specific event coming up, it can be hard to dig through millions of pieces without getting worn out. The answer? Stores that are built with sustainability and worker safety in mind. There are plenty of these stores out there, but it does take some searching to find the best ones. There are lots of companies that brand themselves as sustainable, but a closer look shows their words don’t match their actions. Fast fashion companies like H&M, with their ‘Conscious’ collection, are a good example of this. On the other hand, there are companies like Lucy & Yak, Reformation, Patagonia, Alternative Apparel, and more, that use low impact dyes and recycled or organic materials. Many have offices and factories that are run on renewable energy and clothes that come in recycled, biodegradable, or reusable fabric packaging. Some of these companies are plastic free or completely waste free. Additionally, most have easily accessible information and pictures of their factories online, where working conditions are clean and the workers are given a living wage. Some of these clothing companies also donate a portion of their proceeds to an environmental organization or send emails to their subscribers about climate change or sustainability action that’s happening in their country. Their action is not just for show- it’s real. One of the problems with sustainable shopping is that it can be very expensive. Part of this is because the materials themselves cost more and more time is put into making the clothes. Unlike a lot of the cheap clothing stores out there, where they want their clothes to wear down easily so you have to come back for more, these are made to last. It can be expensive to buy new clothes from sustainable brands, but know that if you do, these pieces are high quality and will last you a lifetime. Whether you are thrifting, buying clothes made of recycled materials, or simply limiting your shopping, you are helping the planet. Individual action, when it grows to hundreds, to thousands, to millions of people, helps to spark a movement. This is how change begins. One thread at a time. Lilian Haran
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euphoria and the benefits of experimental makeup
models: Erica Seff, Alex Walen stylists: Naomi Berger, Emily Fienco beauty: Nina Merz, Mahi Ghia, Grace Halligan photographers: Alex Seewald, Brenne Hoeven layout: Piper Williams
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HBO’s most recent original series, Euphoria, has quickly picked up a following, especially when it comes to makeup. Typically, television show directors use more minimal makeup looks to avoid distracting viewers from the show’s plot. Instead of following this convention, Euphoria presents makeup looks that emulate the story’s drama and experimental flair, a choice that has captured the attention of many audiences. From the glittery tears of protagonist Rue (Zendaya) to the eyebrow rhinestones of Maddy (Alexa Demie), Euphoria refuses to play it safe when it comes to makeup. The makeup artists use these avant-garde looks to give narrative nuance to each character. Jules (Hunter Schaefer) often paints daring shapes and neon colors onto her eyes that indicate her playfulness, whereas Kat (Barbie Ferreira) sports smokey eyes and purple lips when she grows more confident in expressing her sexuality. This strategy helps audiences understand and empathize with the characters’ journeys and pick up on particularities in personality and behavior. Euphoria reminds us that there are an endless number of bold possibilities for our own makeup looks. Makeup doesn’t have to only exist as a way to cover up blemishes or fill in your eyebrows; it can be a daring way to express one’s personality and creativity. In Euphoria, Jules particularly exemplifies this concept. Some days, she sports white eyeliner clouds and other days, she sticks on spiky lashes that hover over her face. She constantly conveys her spontaneity through her makeup, something that the audience can easily pick up on without her having to say a word.
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It is not a stretch to say that Euphoria has influenced and brought to light people’s personal makeup desires and confidence in wearing bold looks. While nude-colored eyeshadow palettes and lipsticks are still popular; this year, everyone seems to be splurging on rainbow palettes and glitter eyeliner. Celebrities such as Jameela Jamil and Katy Perry have both worn makeup looks directly inspired by the show, and social media has seen a massive increase in tutorials for Euphoria-inspired makeup. Suffice it to say that Euphoria has made experimentation the newest trend. Though these looks may seem daunting to pull off, using Euphoria’s makeup as inspiration can be easier than you think. It can come in the form of simply drawing a small shape on your cheekbones or choosing a more colorful eyeshadow. The underlying message of Euphoria’s fun and bold looks is that makeup can act as a useful medium for expressing your inner self. Katherine Kim
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fashion abroad
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madrid, spain
The lack of branded clothing, with the recent vintage trends in ready-to-wear fashion, make it incredibly easy to find stylish pieces at affordable prices in many of the second-hand, or “vintage,” stores in Madrid. Most men’s sections here take up around half the store, compared to the measly back corners which they’re frequently confined to in the US. Before colder weather (read: partly cloudy and 62°) set in, I found a few longsleeved button-down shirts, the sleeves of which I’ve since cut and sewn to make them suitable for the warmer weather. Now, since thrift stores are breaking out their sweaters and warm jackets, it’s not uncommon to find a flannel-lined Barbour or Sherpa-lined Levi’s trucker jacket for under thirty euros, if you know where to look. Additionally, many stores in Madrid have racks of beautiful knit sweaters from the colder northern countries such as Scotland, Norway, and Finland. These stores have spoiled me, so it’ll be hard to return to the fruitless searches through Utica Salvation Army.
You may think you know everything there is to know about Spanish and fashion, but wait until you come to Madrid. The city serves as both the center of Spain’s government and as its fashion capital. Today, fashion in Madrid accurately reflects the longstanding tradition of style as a form of rebellion in Spain. In the eighteenth century, Spain started to break away from Europe in terms of fashion. One of these departures came in the form of the maja. The maja style directly opposed French fashion that was hugely popular throughout Europe at this time. Contrary to the delicate fabrics and muted tones of French style, the Spanish maja was all about making a statement with bold colors, fabrics, and cuts. However, Spain’s maja style was just the beginning of its defiance of traditional European dress. Today, fashion in Madrid initially appears to be the same as fashion in any other city — incredibly trendy and up to date. Madrileños look impeccable all the time. However, compared to American or other European cities, Madrid is significantly less “branded.” Thus, fashion rebellion lives on in Spain. Here, people are far more concerned with the quality and fit of their clothing than communicating wealth through their dress, quite a difference from the fashion scene in the US. People’s clothes are impeccably tailored and outfits are always well planned. No one leaves the house in athleisure. As an American, your style feels inherently inadequate. How do all of these people keep up with the trends? The simple answer is, you can get decent, up-to-date clothing in Spain for a fraction of the prices in the US. Ultimately, retail here is better in quality and cheaper, whether you’re shopping at one of the many Zara’s or El Corte Ingles, or at the local boutiques and zapeterías (shoe stores). Charlotte Miller
Andrew Charman models: Charlotte Miller, Andrew Charman photographer: Joel Harper layout: Grace Halligan
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TRENDY SNEAKERS 23
Sneakers are an integral part of every college student’s wardrobe. Given the fact that they are quite comfortable and can we worn in both warm and cold weather, sneakers are arguably the most popular shoe choice among college students. Every year, we are seeing more and more styles ranging from athletic to fashion sneakers all the way to sneaker boots. Some popular trends this fall include elevated platform sneakers, sporty sneakers, statement sneakers, and sustainable sneakers.
models: Gianna Davino, Charlotte Freed, Sayo Denloye stylists: Emmy Goodwin, Zoe Carovana beauty: Jackie Prunier photographer: Sophie Rubenfeld layout: Piper Williams
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Sporty Sneakers The sporty sneaker is perfect for the casual athleisure aesthetic. These shoes resemble running shoes with a thick, flexible sole and laces, yet they are more fashionable. Adidas has made several models including the Adidas NMD’s, Adidas Ultra Boost, and Adidas Edge. Some other popular models include Nike’s Flyknit Racer, and Nike AirMax. These shoes are comfortable, trendy and especially versatile. They can be worn in class or on your way to the gym.
Platform Sneakers Platform sneakers have become quite popular in both men’s and women’s fashion. Aside from the fact that they are trendy, these shoes give you a little extra lift to make you appear taller. When it rains, the platform can even help keep your feet elevated above puddles so that they stay dry. The popularity of platforms has led to a wide variety of different styles. Some of the most popular models include Nike’s Air Force 1, Superga’s ACOTW platforms, and Puma’s suede, among others.
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Statement Sneakers Statement sneakers have recently risen in popularity. These sneakers are designed to draw people’s attention and be the bold part of any outfit. Often brightly colored or designed with unusual characteristics or material, there is no doubt that these sneakers are unique. One of the most popular statement sneakers is Fila’s Disruptor. This style, with its chunky appearance, jagged sole, and variety of color options, has gained significant popularity and become the ultimate statement. Other styles include Reebok’s Aztrek and Puma’s Nova. Statement sneakers are perfect if your wardrobe revolves around whites, grays and blacks, because these sneakers will immediately pair well with and elevate any outfit.
Sustainable Sneakers As consumers start to recognize the negative environmental impacts of the fast fashion industry, sustainable sneakers have gained a larger following. Some notable brands include Allbirds and Veja. Allbirds makes sneakers out of wool and other natural materials as well as recycled material from plastic bottles. Veja sneakers are made from organic cotton, recycled plastic, vegetable-tanned leather, and wild amazonian rubber. These go-to sneakers are not only trendy and easy to style, but they help reduce your carbon footprint as well. Laura Radulescu
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Student Highlight:
Jefri Schmidt written by Kyle Clark
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Senior soccer captain and art major Jefri Schmidt’s art and style draws inspiration from his sport, background, and pursuit of functionality. Jefri’s studio space in KTSA is lined with his creations over the years, ranging from sketches to custom articles of clothing. Soccer is the unifying theme among his work. He explained the influence of soccer on his art and style: “As a kid growing up, I became very interested in the equipment used when playing soccer, the fabrics and shoes... as I became encompassed in the football culture in the UK, I started paying attention to what players would be wearing off the field, before games, coming to the stadium, and afterwards.” Jefri notes, “Having played soccer my whole life, that mix between athleisure…[and] fashion-conscious decisions” and style “from the places I have been fortunate enough to live in or visit” has influenced his work and clothing choices. Jefri elaborates on his athleisure style, saying, “In soccer cleats, form and function are big to me, so I guess in my clothes, I try to find inspiration from designers that are pushing forward the boundaries of the way things actually function, and what technical aspects to clothing can actually change the way your wear things. My style is on the athleisure trend.” Perhaps the most intriguing athleisure-based creations of Jefri are his soleswapped soccer cleats intended for street wear. These shoes serve as a staple of his style and art and are the epitome of his functionality approach. Discouragement lead to Jefri’s ingenuity: “My work discouraged me from wearing Adidas shoes, because it is a direct competitor with our client, Nike. That’s when I started to experiment with all my old adidas shoes because I realized I wouldn’t be wearing them as much.”
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Jefri shares his passion for art and welcomes additional help from both his family and his team. Sole-swapped soccer cleats receive a finishing design from Jefri’s sister, whose artistic skills include customizing and painting shoes. Jefri explains, “We enjoy messing around with that stuff. I like the functional aspect of it, taking something that purely meant for sport and crafting it into something you can be comfortable in, something that will look good on your feet. Her approach is more of applying her fine art techniques and expertise to a blank canvas.” The Schmidt duo’s efforts combine effortlessly to produce something that is both aesthetically pleasing and functional. Jefri also brings his art into the sport that serves as its chief inspiration. He used his artistic talents to create a Hamilton College goalie jersey: “This is one thing I did during my independent study, which I really enjoyed because I was able to integrate my own style into a jersey that was then...worn by someone on the team. That was really gratifying to me, because I like making things that have a purpose.”
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Jefri dervies further inspiration from international cultures and brands. Jefri grew up in both Brunei and England and didn’t move to the United States until high school. He integrates aspects of different cultures he has encountered into his art. Jefri is currently designing a soccer jersey with a pattern he first saw at a Brunei street market. Jefri explains his interest in international brands: “Chinatown Market is one of my favorite brands in regards to creative graphic design methods, but the attention to detail that Kith gives to their products’ colors and materials makes for really drawing and comfortable clothes.” Pursuit of function in art and athleisure style drives Jefri Schimdt’s creative process. His unique pieces are products of his passion for soccer and his multicultural upbringing. Jefri doesn’t know yet if he intends to pursue a career in the arts, but one thing is for certain; he will continue to use his international background, passion for soccer, and interest in functionality when creating art. Jefri’s work creatively highlights and constantly reminds us that clothing is more than just what we wear, it is a medium of artistic
stylist: Naomi Berger photographer: Penelope Hoopes layout: Julia Opatrny
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behind the cover
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This semester's cover model, Joyce Lee, brings her urbanstreamline meets liberal-arts-crunch style to a local cornfield to prove that fashion has a place on a rural college campus. The cornfield where the photoshoot took place is only a five minute drive from campus, but co-editor-in-chief Christine Rosato commented on the fact that the space is surprisingly underutilized saying, “Cornfields are all around here, but we’ve never done a shoot in one before.” The scenery exemplifies the contrast between the bold colors and harsh lines of one of Joyce’s looks, while the natural aspect of the background enhances the organic colors and flowing materials of another look.
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Of the three looks, Joyce feels most drawn to the silver dress layered over a white tee that is paired with chunky Nike sneakers and crescent moon statement earrings. Unlike some of the other pieces modeled, this dress actually belongs to Joyce. She found this gem in a Washington DC thrift store, and when she brought it back to college, she was pleasantly surprised to find that it also fits all of her roommates beautifully. The dress became a symbol of body positivity for her.
Joyce also felt empowered in the red jumpsuit. She refers to her confident and powerful stance as a sort of “assertion of dominance.” Her pose, combined with the boldness of the clothing, addresses “how women's bodies are policed” and challenges patriarchal notions of body image. The firetruck red color of the jumpsuit juxtaposed with the natural tones of Joyce’s surroundings demands attention and encourages viewers to rethink traditional notions of feminized beauty.
The third look contrasts both the glam silver dress and vibrant jumpsuit, as it brings us back to the basics. Joyce models a long, flowy tunic, simple black biker shorts, and sleek black booties. The aforementioned moon earrings are also featured.
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For Joyce, fashion is fluid and not bound by convention. She is proud to be a native of Queens, New York and elements of the city certainly influence her style. She can embrace the sleekness of the city in head-to-toe black while also adopting some liberal arts crunch. She’s been known to “dip her toe into flowy boho feminine,” while also enjoying minimalist looks anchored by statement pieces. While Joyce was abroad in Morocco, a pair of blue and white vertically striped pants became a signature statement piece of hers. She discussed how a bold accessory or article of clothing can become associated with a person. These days, she feels particularly drawn to a yellow turtleneck. Joyce thrifts a lot of her clothes for both convenience and sustainability. Thrifting helps her achieve a vintage look while also allowing her to explore fashion with low risk; her philosophy is that you’re more likely to purchase a bold or unique piece of clothing if it’s $5 used rather than $20 new. Joyce is starting up a clothing swap in Co-op, as she enjoys seeing bits of her own wardrobe on other people around campus. Because fashion is so integral to her as a mode of self-expression, Joyce feels that she sees a part of herself in each person wearing the clothes she contributed to the pool. She hopes that the swap will continue to gain popularity so her dorm mates can experience this sensation of sharing a part of themselves with others. stylist: Naomi Berger beauty: Vera Wang photographer: Lynn Kim layout: Grace Halligan
Caroline Boyd
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