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Fleishigs Magazine Issue 048 - June 2023

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P IT USA $6.99 CAN $9.99 / UK £6 SA R90 / ISR 25₪

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CULINARY SCHOOL LESSONS WE LEARNED FROM COOKING CLASSES

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TRAVEL THE AMALFI COAST, FLORENCE AND BEYOND

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EDITOR’S LETTER

16

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

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ESSENTIALS What you need to cook this issue

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BUTCHER’S CUT Lamb chops

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Terra di Seta: The Jewel of Tuscany

87

SOMETHING SWEET Italian-inspired desserts

92

L’CHAIM Chilled wines for summer

96

RECIPE INDEX

98

LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp

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BACK POCKET TOMATOES AND ZUCCHINI

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EDITOR'S LETTER

ITALY: PART II

Così è la Vita

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

WHEN WE PLANNED our trip to Rome, which was highlighted in the Shavuos issue, our initial thought was to pack everything into two nights and three days, then come home. Our dear travel agents — Joseph, Jay and Rivkah from High Class Travel — insisted that we extend our trip to see other parts of Italy; to their credit, we managed to shift our schedule to accommodate a few more days in Italy for an experience we will never forget. With close to no notice, they seamlessly added a twonight stay in Florence and scheduled our return flight out of Naples, so that we could visit the iconic Amalfi Coast. There was so much to write about Rome that we dedicated a second issue to take you on our journey from Florence to Rome and the Amalfi Coast. Beyond all of the travel tips featured on the pages of this issue, we were so inspired by many food and culinary lessons we learned throughout Italy. One key factor was the superior produce — no words can actually describe how good a simple slice of tomato is in Italy. In fact, I can confidently say that out of all of the delicious meals we had on the

trip, the most memorable plates were the ones that consisted of fresh tomatoes, burrata, extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of flaky salt. This further inspired my dedication to eat as seasonally and locally as possible in hopes of having more improved produce experiences; as such, our Back Pocket feature this month celebrates just that — the best of summer produce, tomato and zucchini, inspired by Italy. Our trip began in Florence (aka Firenze), a beautiful city full of art, culture and Jewish history. A consistent theme throughout Italy was the stories shared by the beautiful synagogues we visited — a tragic yet hopeful history of building and rebuilding after destruction reminiscent of the diaspora and growth experienced by Jews throughout history. I hope this issue brings you that same inspiration as we kick off a wonderful summer. Bitayavon,

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappoport FOOD STYLIST ASSISTANT Esther Hazan CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com

www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.

Shifra

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BUTCHER'S CUT

LAMB CHOPS THIS ELEGANT CUT OF MEAT IS EASY TO COOK AND A WELCOME CHANGE FROM STEAK FOR YOUR SUMMER BARBECUES. BY: N A F TA L I H A N AU P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R

Ah, the lamb chop, a truly delightful cut. I insist that you use your hands to eat them — there is way too much good meat on those bones that you’ll miss with a knife and fork. There is nothing like perfectly crisp seared chops with tender insides and gently softened fat. Before we get into how to cook lamb chops to perfection, you need to know what chops you are dealing with, as there are several different kinds.

1. Rainbow chops are cut from the lower part of the shoulder and feature the incredibly tasty and tender rainbow meat. Depending on the time of year and size of the lamb, these chops can be the fattiest, which means extra flavor, but if you’re not a fan of fat, try shoulder chops or lamb chops instead. 2. Lamb shoulder chops are meaty and flavorful. They are leaner than rainbow chops and larger than lamb chops, so if you're looking for a hearty meal of delicious, pasture-raised lamb, this is the chop for you. They are sometimes called second cut lamb chops since they have more of the slightly tougher shoulder meat on them.

lean, they’re the most straightforward as far as the majority of the meat goes (no intermuscular tissues, multiple muscles, etc.), but you still have some meat left on the bone that should rightfully be gnawed off.

4. Baby lamb chops or lollipop lamb chops are frenched (meaning the bones are cleaned up) and carefully trimmed into elegant circles. They’re ideal for appetizers or a fancy dinner, but they’re the least cost-effective — all that extra trimming means extra work and a higher cost for a very small amount of meat.

3. Lamb chops are essentially the rib-eye of lamb. They can also be called first cut or rib chops. Tender and relatively

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BUTCHER'S CUT

CHOP SIZE MATTERS: Larger rainbow and shoulder lamb chops benefit from being seared, then finished with indirect heat (either on the grill or in a 400°F oven) to finish cooking. On the other hand, smaller lamb chops can be seared on the stove or grill — no oven or indirect heat required.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

BY: S H I F R A A N D S H LO M O K L E I N

TOP 10

C U L I N A RY L E S S O N S F R O M I TA LY O N E O F O U R B E ST T I PS W H E N T R AV E L I N G I S TO L E A R N A B O U T T H E LO CA L C U I S I N E , C U STO M S A N D C U LT U R E . O N O U R T R I P TO I TA LY, W E AC C O M P L I S H E D T H I S BY E AT I N G LO CA L D E L I CAC I E S ; P E RU S I N G T H E FA R M E RS’ M A R K E TS A N D S M A L L S H O PS ; A N D BY TA K I N G A C O O K I N G C L ASS AT T H E O L D SY N AG O G U E I N S I E N A , I TA LY AT T H E R EC O M M E N DAT I O N O F O U R T R AV E L AG E N T AT H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L . H E R E A R E SO M E O F T H E I N VA LUA B L E T I PS W E L E A R N E D A LO N G T H E WAY.

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TRAVEL

Costiera Amalfitana BY: S H I F R A K L E I N , AS TO L D TO A N N A R A H M A N A N A N D E L I S H E VA TA I TZ B RO U G H T TO YO U BY: H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L

Something happens when you get to the Amalfi Coast, whether it’s your first time visiting or not.

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TRAVEL

JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

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TRAVEL

Exploring the Beauty

of Florence and B RO U G H T TO YO U BY: H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L

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d Beyond

TRAVEL

From its rich history to its lush scenery, Florence (the capital of Italy's Tuscany region) is on travelers' bucket lists for good reason. JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

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TRAVEL

The Best of All Worlds

A Kosher Winery and Iconic Castle Collide BY: N EC H A M A M A RC U S N EST L E D IN PICTURE SQ UE TU SCAN Y L IES A KOS HE R WINE RY A N D R ESTAURA NT UNL IK E AN Y T H IN G E LSE IN THE WO RL D.

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TRAVEL

T

uscany – the mere word evokes thoughts of enchantment and timeless beauty. Travelers from all over the world come to lose themselves in its splendor and create unforgettable memories. It's no surprise that Tuscany's tranquil surroundings make it the number one destination for weddings and events around the globe, with visitors traveling from as far as New Zealand to create moments of pure magic. Visiting a winery in the hills of Tuscany is on the itinerary of most tourists and there are two wineries that are a must for the kosher traveler visiting this region — Terra di Seta (see more on page 82) and Cantina Guiliano. Eli and Lara Gauthier run Cantina Guiliano, an exclusively kosher winery and restaurant that offers visitors a variety of unique activities from truffle hunting and cooking classes to gourmet meals and wine tastings. A visit to Cantina Guiliano is truly enjoyable and memorable. The restaurant offers the kind of food Jewish travelers can barely dream of, with locally-inspired dishes that showcase the decadent flavors of Tuscany. Nestled in the picturesque rolling hills of San Ruffino, a five-minute drive from Cantina Giuliano, lies Il Castello di San Ruffino, a historic castle-turned hotel built by a marquis over 400 years ago. The recently renovated rooms are tastefully designed. Pierluigi Cioni, a company CEO and hotel director with 20 years of experience, is dedicated to creating a new kind of hospitality experience. Piero, as he prefers to be called, knows how to take a noble approach to hospitality. His philosophy is to treat visitors as guests rather than clients. Piero's friendship with Eli has resulted in a unique and exciting collaboration to offer kosher food and top notch service at Il Castello di San Ruffino. Eli’s vision is to bring top-notch Tuscan hospitality and unrivaled kosher experiences to the iconic castle. The grounds are ideal for intimate celebrations like Bar Mitzvahs, family

Pierluigi Cioni JUNE 2023 Fleishigs

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